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Blind man prolific traveler

James Holman was born to travel. It was all he wanted to do from an early age — his father owned an apothecary shop in the British town of Exeter, and the shop was filled with the smells of spices and plants from the rest of the world. When he wasn’t in the shop, Holman would walk down to the port. Exeter sits on the tip of the Exe estuary leading out to sea, which made the town the country’s second largest inland port behind London. There, Holman could hear tales of foreign lands and the high seas.

But at the time — the late 1700s and early 1800s — the only way for the son of an apothecary to see the world was to join the British Navy. So at age 12, that’s what he did, as a volunteer on the ships that made Britain one of the world’s greatest superpowers. By the time he was 21, he had worked his way up to the rank of lieutenant. His ship, the HMS Guerriere, was tasked with the job of hunting pirates and patrolling the coasts of the Americas. And it was there, at the age of 24, off the coast of the new United States, that Holman was suddenly struck with an illness that would eventually take his eyesight.

Just a few years into his career, Holman could no longer see the world he’d always longed to see. Since he’d lost his sight in the line of duty, the British government offered him room and board at Windsor Castle, but the life there was too quiet for him. So over the years, he’d apply for leaves of absence — first to attend university in Edinburgh, then to finally tour around Europe.

Upon his return, he wrote a book and realized that being blind didn’t have to stop him from spending the rest of his life traveling.

A sense of the world

Holman’s full story is laid out in Jason Roberts’ excellent book A Sense of the World. By the end of Holman’s life, he was one of the most well-traveled people of all time, and in an age where recreational travel just wasn’t a thing: most people who were out exploring the world were doing so in search of treasure or power or money, or at the behest of a national government. Holman traveled mostly for pleasure, and to write accounts of his trips. He became known as the “Blind Traveler,” and his writings would actually be cited by Charles Darwin in his famous book The Voyage of the Beagle.

Perhaps the most incredible story of Holman’s life, though, was right in his home country on the River Thames. While he was asleep, a coal ship had collided with the ship he was aboard, and his ship’s anchor chain snapped. This sent the vessel lurching from its moorings and into the middle of the river, where it could very possibly be hit again.

Holman, still a former sailor, went up on deck in his pajamas to help the crew right the ship, but when he reached the helm, he found that there was no one there. The captain was off trying to keep the ship afloat and began screaming orders back to the helm. At the captain’s direction, Holman guided the ship into port. It wasn’t until they were safely moored that the captain realized they’d been steered to safety by a blind man.

Human echolocation

The way Holman was able to orient himself in the world around him was through echolocation. If that sounds familiar, it’s probably because you’ve heard of bats or dolphins doing it — basically, it’s the act of making a noise, listening for the echoes, and then judging how far certain objects are based on how quickly the echo returns. It’s a pretty difficult thing to do, and while there are some blind people who get around using echolocation (mostly by making clicking noises with their mouths), it is not the norm, and it takes a long time to learn.

Holman was a very early practitioner of human echolocation — Roberts tells a story of Holman entering a crowded restaurant to meet two friends. One of the friends whispered to the other to be quiet when Holman entered the room, so they could see if he could find them. He immediately walked over to the table — dodging other tables and people in the crowded restaurant, and sat down. He’d heard their whispers, he told them, as soon as he walked into the room, and was able to separate them from the rest of the noise and clatter of the restaurant. It was like he could see them.

Traveling around the world blind

Holman lived to the age of 70, and he kept traveling for most of that time. His first attempt at a circumnavigation ended quickly — he only made it across Europe and into Russia before being deported from Siberia after the Czar suspected him of being a spy. When he returned, he’d found that his travelogues of his previous trips had sold well, which gave him a bit extra income for traveling more.

He took off again — this time to western Africa, on a deadly voyage where all but 12 of the 135 crew died of malaria. Holman, who’d been trained as a doctor after being discharged from the army, helped care for the sick men. From there, he sailed to Brazil, then to South Africa, and then up through the Indian Ocean. In Ceylon (modern day Sri Lanka), he participated in an elephant hunt. It took him a full 5 years to complete his circumnavigation. And that was not his last trip.

By the end of his life, Roberts estimates, Holman chalked up 250,000 miles traveled. This is further than the distance from the earth to the moon. Holman was forgotten in his later years — there were just too many other great travelers out there, from Charles Darwin to Nellie Bly to Charles Lindbergh. The blind traveler was lost to history. But we can remember him now as the man who was told by the world that his disability meant he’d have to stay home, and who gently, spectacularly, ignored the world’s advice.


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The post How a blind man became one of the most prolific travelers of all time appeared first on Matador Network.

Airbus cargo turned to sleeper bunks

If there is one thing every traveler wants to be able to do while on a long flight, it’s sleep comfortably. But no matter how many hacks you try to make flying less miserable, it can sometimes feel impossible to sleep a wink, especially if you’re traveling in a cramped economy middle seat.

Luckily, Airbus and Zodiac Aerospace are coming to the rescue to make every traveler’s dream come true, by developing a sleeping area in aircrafts’ cargo compartments. The sleeping berths give a cool hostel vibe that is sure to please travelers desperately trying to catch some Z’s.

Photo: Airbus

The sleeping module would slide in the lower deck and could be easily removed from the area to be used for cargo when need be, so there’s no waste of space.

Airbus explains that the lower-deck sleeping facilities will be offered first on the A330, by 2020, so we may only have two years of terrible flying experiences to deal with before we can stretch our legs and take a much-needed nap on our way to our destination.

Geoff Pinner, Head of Airbus Cabin & Cargo Programme said that they have already received very positive feedback from several airlines on their first mock-ups, so we hope that sleeping quarters like this one will soon be so ubiquitous and affordable that we’ll forget about all the years of cramped legs are neck pains.

So, what’s next for aircraft innovations that would make travelers’ experience more positive? Because it seems like the sleeping problem will soon be under control, we suggest that the engineers and designers at Airbus now concentrate their efforts in finding a little, unused corner to set up some showers. When that’s done, we’ll finally stop complaining. We promise.


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The post This airbus turned the cargo bay into huge sleeper bunks appeared first on Matador Network.

Eco-friendly cannabis-powered plane

There’s a new way for you and your crew to get “high.” In a win for everyone from environmentalists to cannabis activists to stoned college kids looking for a cool link to text to their buddies, Canadian company Hempearth has pioneered the world’s first cannabis-powered airplane.

This canna-plane (you have our permission to call it that) is fully powered by hemp oil, emitting far fewer toxins into the atmosphere and eliminating the need for fossil fuels to power the flight. But that’s hardly the coolest thing about it. Cannabis makes up at least a portion of each major component of the plane — the wings, the seats, even the plane’s structure is infused with hemp.

Attracting stoners isn’t the only reasoning behind using hemp in the plane’s production. Hemp can hold nearly twice the weight of steel without breaking and can withstand the bends that come with air travel, making it stronger than steel.

The plane boasts a 36’ wingspan and has enough room to carry five people including the pilot. This invention isn’t going to replace commercial jetlines anytime soon, but hey — we’ve got to start somewhere. “This is the kind of future we all want here on Earth,” Hempearth CEO Derek Kesek told High Times.

Because hemp uses fewer resources to produce than steel, it can be used to help modern industry reduce its environmental impact. Innovations hoping to make air travel less hazardous to the environment have made headlines in recent years. The Airbus A320neo features an engine that is more energy efficient than most commercial airliners, and The Guardian reported on the first round-the-world trip made by a solar-powered plane back in 2016.

H/T High Times

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The post This eco-friendly plane is made of and powered by cannabis appeared first on Matador Network.

Tracing family lineage abroad

One of the best excuses to travel is to find out more about your family lineage and how your ancestors lived. I have been working on my family tree for several years and have discovered connections to Canada, Australia, USA, France, and even Turkey. The stories you’ll uncover along the way can be incredibly compelling, especially as you dig up interesting things about your family’s past. Here are the top tips on how to trace your family lineage.

1. Talk to your family

One of the most important things to do first is to talk to any family members and ask about ancestors. What do they remember? Do they have any certificates or photos that you could look at? Write down and record what they say about their lives and other family members. My grandfather went to sea at 15 years old and I’m just so glad I took the time to ask him questions about his travels before he died. The generation who lived through World War II are getting fewer, so if you have senior family members from that era, do take the time to ask them about their experiences. This will give you unique information you won’t find in libraries.

2. Prepare your records and validate information

At one time, tracing your ancestors involved spending days in research depositories and libraries. But the internet has been a game changer. Today, a lot of church records, military documents, and census information is online. You can find out a lot of detail by using sites such as Ancestry or FindMyPast, which need a subscription but there are free trial offers. These hold a significant amount of records but you’ll need to be careful and check the details of what you find. Validate your information using dates, records, and other documents. Do a sense-check as to whether the dates fit chronologically. For example, does a birth and marriage date look feasible? Find out as much as you can before you dive in as it will help focus your visit on what you can’t get online.

3. Write everything down

When you find a family member in these documents, make a record of everything you learn and make note of where you got that information. Although there is a lot of information about family lineage online, some is not as accurate as it should be and some is flat out incorrect. Make sure you keep accurate records of your findings and how the family members connect. When you start finding more information, you’ll need those records to check dates and places to validate your findings.

National Archive sites are another valuable resource for finding out more about your lineage and hold a significant amount of information. The Australian National Archive, for example, holds military records from World War I, along with immigration and family data. There are National Archives in the UK, and a lot of there information has been digitized. The Liberty Ellis Foundation has details of everyone who passed through the site in New York.

4. Network

The internet has opened up a vast network of people tracing their lineage who now have a place to connect. There are forums and specialist websites where it is possible to find out about ancestors online. Some internet forums have pages dedicated to the history of a town or organization. For example, my hometown has a Facebook page where people can upload old photos and we constantly get folks asking about their families — and often there are positive answers for them. Some regions have local history societies which are easy to find online. A few inquiries in places like this before you travel will give you ideas on what to see and what else you can research. You may also make a local contact in the city you are visiting who can advise you on what to see and do.

5. Make the most out of your field trips

If you’re planning on exiting the local library and making your way to the source of your ancestry, be sure to have a plan on what you want to see and do on your field trip. Without this, you can easily waste time looking in the wrong places and achieving very little. Take photocopies of documents so you don’t lose the originals. If you are visiting a library or research center abroad, make sure they have the information you want to review and can have it available for your visit. In some places, you might need to reserve ahead, especially in some of the specialist centers. Speak to the center beforehand as the curators often know of additional resources you may find helpful.

Make sure you take photos, notes, and record the detail of the reference documents you wouldn’t be able to access at home. Also take this opportunity to visit cemeteries, museums, and potentially even the old homes or properties where your ancestors live (be sure to ask permission to look around if there are people currently living on the property). Budget plenty of time as researching ancestry in person takes a lot longer than you’d think — as you’ll likely end up having long, hopefully illuminating conversations. You might even come across something really exciting that needs an extra day to hunt down. Be prepared to find out unusual things, and even people with a criminal past. I found an ancestor with a history of forgery and loved visiting the jail he spent time in.

There’s nothing quite like actually being in a place where your ancestors once lived and worked, and there is always something new to discover as your ancestor becomes more than a name. Last time I was in France visiting the town where my Huguenot ancestors came from, I took a guided tour and discovered a lot about the area and the silk and wool industry where they worked. That’s when I found out they used the silk route trading networks. Now that’s a field trip to plan for in the future.

Resources
Genealogy Sites

www.ancestry.com

www.findmypast.co.uk (British and Irish ancestors)

www.familysearch.org

National Archive Centers

National Archives of Australia

Archives Canada

Library and Archives Canada

Archives New Zealand

United Kingdom National Archives

USA National Archives

Specialist Libraries and Collections

American Battle Monuments Commission

Church of the Latter Day Saints

Commonwealth War Graves Commission

Ellis Island Archives

Irish passenger lists

Society of Genealogists, London


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Know before going through customs

“The name in your passport is wrong,” sighed the border protection agent at SFO, barely glancing at me with his bored eyes. The blood drained from my face, the feeling went out of my legs, and pure panic replaced the exhaustion I had just been feeling after sitting for ten hours on a trans-Pacific flight. “This is it,” I thought. “I’m going to die in airport jail because of a typo.”

Just as I was about to sink to the floor and let them drag me off to a dark cell, the agent brightened up and exclaimed, “It should be Wunderwoman!!” (my last name is Wunderman). I was barely able to force out a feeble “ha ha” before snatching my passport back and stepping on American soil.

If you’re like me, being in the presence of someone wielding even a modicum of authority can stir up feelings of guilt and fear. Nowhere is this more prevalent than at airport border protection and customs, either at home or abroad. I have an innate fear of the people who get to decide whether or not I’m worthy of entering an entire country: what if I answer their questions incorrectly? What if I accidentally packed something forbidden and that cute but fearsome beagle rats me out?

Creating an environment that stimulates excessive nervousness is one way of weeding out people who are genuinely attempting to break the law. Acknowledging that it’s not designed to be a pleasant experience, here are 7 tips to keep your stress level down while going through customs.

1. Don’t attempt to break the law.

If you actually have something to hide, like drugs or trafficked animals, (or chewing gum if you’re trying to go to Singapore), that can make it harder to keep your cool. Even if you make it past border protection, sniffer dogs could be waiting for you at customs — and they’re searching for fruit and veggies, too. It’s a lot easier to act not-nervous if you have nothing to be nervous about.

2. Research your destination’s prohibited items.

Every country has its own rules about what can and can’t be imported, and those things aren’t always intuitive. You’ll be less nervous knowing none of your stuff will turn out to be prohibited, and that you won’t have to give an awkward, forced apology for violating Australia’s biosecurity measures.

3. Have proof of your return ticket.

Border protection doesn’t just track you going into their country; they’re also making sure that you will leave within the timeframe of your visa. If they suspect you might be attempting to make your visit permanent, a return ticket (or bus/train/boat ticket out of the country) is a great tool for assuaging fears.

4. Be polite and tell the truth.

Whether you’re held up by a border or customs agent, it doesn’t do you any favors to get defensive or lie. Like most authority figures, they are trained to identify untruths, and getting pissy will only validate any suspicions they may have. Also, joking can make them think you have something to hide.

5. Travel with a pen.

This tip is way less intense than some of the others, but it’s an easy way to avoid unnecessary stress. Having your customs card filled out before deplaning means you won’t be scrambling to get it done when you could be queuing up to get your passport stamped.

6. Plan extra time to make your connecting flight.

I spent one very uncomfortable night in the Bogotá airport after the customs line proved prohibitively long, and I missed my next flight. Watching the minutes tick down was enough to make me freak out, which only made the border agents want to speak with me longer.

7. Just breathe.

The prospect of being “judged” by someone whose regular state of mind is suspicion can be understandably daunting to travelers with social anxiety. Reduce your heart rate with slow-breathing exercises, and remember that going through customs is a formality everyone has to go through. Likewise, the people scrutinizing you are just doing their job, and though it can feel personal at times, it isn’t.


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The post Everything you can do to make going through customs not terrifying appeared first on Matador Network.

Do summer right in Chicago

Brunch. Beach. Festival. Repeat. This tried-and-true cycle will carry you through every single weekend over the summer in Chicago. But that’s just the beginning. Baseball games and boat tours, rooftop bars and free fireworks — there’s a few things you can only do during Chicago’s short (but well worth the wait!) summer season. Plan wisely so you don’t miss out. Here are 20+ ways to do summer in Chicago.

EAT:

All five flavors in one lick. The opening of Original Rainbow Cone each year signals the start of the season for locals, when they can finally enjoy orange sherbet, pistachio, Palmer House (vanilla with cherries and walnuts), strawberry, and chocolate in one fell swoop of the tongue. The Beverly ice cream shop is a neighborhood institution, but for sweet cravings downtown, just head to their Navy Pier location. A few more summer-only staples: Mario’s Italian Lemonade, Miko’s Italian Ice, and The Freeze.

DO:

A baseball game. North Side or South Side — a summer afternoon spent rooting either of the home teams is a winner. Snag a bleacher seat and catch the Cubs play at their historic ballpark. Wander around all the new Wrigleyville developments like Brickhouse Tavern and Mordecai or do “old Wrigley” and stop at favorites like Murphy’s Bleachers. The Sox host some of the best deals in baseball with great promos like Family Sundays with tickets starting at just $5, Free T-shirt Thursdays, and $1 Hot Dog Wednesdays.

DO:

Check the calendar for the week’s festivals. Imagine a block party. Then invite the whole city. That’s basically the scene all summer long. Everyone becomes your neighbor at fun street fests like Do Division and Maifest. Mega events take food, drinks and live music to the next level—Taste of Chicago and Lollapalooza for example.

DRINK:

Outdoors in a beer garden. Yes we have sooo many craft breweries in Chicago but come summer, take your brew outside with places like Kaiser Tiger which has a 200-seat beer garden.

EAT:

Alfresco on a rooftop. The moniker “Windy City” may not mean what you think, but our rooftops do make a great place to catch that summer breeze. Or better yet, capture a beautiful skyline view. There’s a lot to choose from here (particularly if you just want to imbibe) but for rooftop dining some good options include Cabana Club atop The Robey Hall and The J. Parker, 13 floors above Hotel Lincoln.

DO:

Watch downtown summer fireworks. Big, bold displays of color fill our skies and reflect off beautiful Lake Michigan each season. These spectacular — and free — displays can be seen up close at Navy Pier on Wednesday and Saturday nights (Memorial Day to Labor Day), though anywhere along the downtown lakefront makes a good viewing spot.

Photo: Nat Chittamai/Shutterstock

EAT:

Ribs, pulled pork, smoked brisket, and every other type of BBQ. Such a definitive summer food, barbecue is best when enjoyed outdoors. Chicago does this in a big way with a lineup of meaty summer fests: Windy City Smokout, Ribfest Chicago in North Center and Windy City Ribfest in Uptown, and Chicago Bourbon & Barbecue Fest.

DO:

Plan a play day at the beach. On a beautiful summer day, it seems like everyone is out along the water. All free and open to the public from Memorial Day to Labor Day, the 26 Chicago beaches on Lake Michigan are soft, sandy stretches to take in the sun. Build sandcastles under the shadows of skyscrapers at Oak Street Beach or play volleyball at North Avenue Beach. Hit the lakefront trail to take it all in and refresh at waterside cafes like Castaways. Chicago Park District runs its free public pools following the same schedule so consider checking out these neighborhood gems, too, for an open swim session.

EAT:

The original Maxwell Street Polish. Yes you can get this all year round at Jim’s Original, but given the lack of indoor seating, coming in the summer makes sense so you can stand on the sidewalk like everyone else and have at it: a juicy Polish sausage, piled high with grilled onions, spicy sport peppers, and mustard.

EAT:

Even more encased meats aka the hot dog. It’s a similar operation at local hot dog stands — order and go. The indoor seating situation is little to none, so head to these colorful little shacks in the summer. Jr’s Red Hots and Red Hot Ranch in the Bucktown neighborhood are two prime examples, and both have picnic tables set up outside for when the weather is nice.

Photo: Robson90/Shutterstock

DO:

A picnic in Millennium Park. Bring a blanket and spread out under the stars for free classical performances during Grant Park Music Festival, free movies on the 40-foot LED screen for the Millennium Park Film Series, and free concerts for the Millennium Park Summer Music Series.

DO:

The Chicago Riverwalk. At lunch, at happy hour, at dusk… locals and visitors alike converge along the scenic waterfront promenade for a stroll, casual eats, and great outdoor drinks.

DO:

Splash around a fountain. Crown Fountain in Millennium Park and Polk Bros. Fountain at Navy Pier become delightful playgrounds each summer. The cool mist blowing off Buckingham Fountain is another refresher. Turned on just for the summer season (usually May to October), these iconic landmarks are great spots to people watch.

DO:

Scale the climbing wall. Tackle massive 40-foot-tall rock climbing walls in Maggie Daley Park. You can test your skills when the season opens, generally in April depending on the weather.

DO:

The foxtrot, tango, and bachata in the Spirit of Music Garden. This very seasonal event — hence the name Chicago SummerDance — is all about embracing the outdoors and dancing to live music. Grant Park hosts the popular dance party, which starts off with free lessons, every week from June to August.

DRINK:

Down an icy cool milkshake. The doughnut-topped treats from the walk-up window at BomboBar scream summer, though we’ll admit Portillo’s Chocolate Cake Shake is a year-round guilty pleasure.

EAT:

The freshest of the fresh. Colorful berries and crisp apples fill the stalls at our neighborhood farmers markets. Enjoy the harvests of the Midwest and snack on pastries, empanadas, and other ready-to-eat items while you check out chef demos and enjoy live music. Green City Market in Lincoln Park and Logan Square Farmers Market take place weekly in beautiful outdoor settings starting in May.

DO:

Your shopping outside. The West Loop bazaar known as Randolph Street Market sells antiques, vintage clothes, collectibles, and more from a sprawling outdoor space each month in the summer from May to September. Even better bargains can be had at Maxwell Street Market, a Sunday flea market known for its street food.

DO:

Take to the water. There’s nothing like being on a boat and we have a whole fleet to choose from each summer. Zip out on Lake Michigan with a Seadog Extreme Thrill Ride; for a leisurely option go with Entertainment Cruises. The Chicago River carves out a perfect path amid the Loop to snap pics of our amazing architecture. The top tour is Chicago’s First Lady Cruises, though Wendella Sightseeing Boats and Shoreline Sightseeing have the most fun with their themed events like wine tastings and craft beer nights. Or man your own vessel with Urban Kayaks.

Photo: f11photo/Shutterstock

EAT:

A smorgasbord of food truck fare. Head to where the food trucks gather for a mix-and-match lunch that you can take to the park or nearest bench. Chicago Food Truck Fest, kicking off for regular meetups starting in March, is a reliable option downtown.

DO:

Live music at a museum. MCA Chicago hosts Tuesdays on the Terrace featuring free concerts in their artful sculptural garden (June-September) and our lakefront aquarium draws crowds every Wednesday for Jazzin at the Shedd (June-October).

Finally, another way Chicago does summer is, funny enough, by sometimes leaving the city all together. Music concerts at Ravinia, roller coasters at Six Flags Great America, and acres of lush greenery at Chicago Botanic Garden are a few good reasons to travel out to the suburbs. There’s also the call of the “Mother Road.” Make Chicago your starting point for that epic summer road trip down Route 66.

Singing roadway driving locals crazy

Few things in life are more annoying than the noise made by rumble strips on the side of the highway, particularly for those that live near a major thoroughfare. Except maybe if those rumble strips were to sing…and unfortunately for the Dutch village of Jelsum, that’s their daily hell.

Residents of Jelsum have recently been subjected to a consistent cacophony of the same musical tones. The rumble strips on the local highway, which are meant to draw awareness to swerving drivers, instead play the anthem of the Friesland region when you drive exactly 40 miles per hour over them (faster or slower speeds make it sound muffled or distorted).

The original idea was that the roads would soothe drivers and reflect the strong local pride of the Netherlands’ Friesland region with heartwarming renditions of the area’s official anthem, as the region holds customs and a language distinct from the rest of the country. But instead, the experiment resulted in perhaps the most mind-numbing thing of all time. The sound travels to the local village, keeping residents awake at night.

Before you laugh too hard at the video above, it’s important to note that this was not the first time such an idea has been implemented. Among other singing roadways, Route 66 in New Mexico plays an only slightly out-of-tune version of “America The Beautiful”:

Residents issued a stream of complaints and thankfully, the local transit authority has decided to remove the themed rumble strips and allow residents to go back to hearing the less-intrusive sounds of normal traffic.

Looks like we should just stick to our car stereos for musical entertainment.


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The post This singing roadway is the worst idea ever and it’s driving locals insane appeared first on Matador Network.

Best hidden diving in Southeast Asia

Home to the Coral Triangle, sometimes known as the “Amazon of the Seas” thanks to its incredible biodiversity, Southeast Asia has attracted SCUBA fanatics by the boatload for decades. The region has many world-renowned dive destinations within its borders, so it’s little wonder that some of Southeast Asia’s best-known dive spots can feel overrun with herds of bubble-blowing tourists during peak seasons. If your idea of the ultimate bucket list dive trip includes having pristine coral reefs virtually to yourself, check out these lesser known locations that rival the region’s most famous marine life hot spots.

1. Alor, Indonesia

Photo: Ethan Daniels/Shutterstock

Experienced divers almost invariably uphold Indonesia as one of the top locations in Southeast Asia. Consisting of over 17,000 islands, Indonesia has no shortage of unspoiled reefs, scattered in remote locations reserved for only the most intrepid adventure divers. While Raja Ampat, Komodo, and Lembeh rank high on almost every diver’s bucket list, there are destinations of a similar caliber still considered under-the-radar — places like the Alor Archipelago in the country’s sparsely populated southeast.

To fully experience Alor’s underwater, split your bottom time between Kalabahi Bay for black sand critter diving and riding the currents of the Pantar Strait for outstanding visibility, fast drifts over miles of healthy coral reef, and (with good luck and timing) some of Indonesia’s best big fish encounters. September offers the best chance to see the bizarre mola mola fish, while full moons provide ideal conditions for diving amid schools of endangered hammerheads. Alor’s nutrient-rich waters also offer a safe haven for numerous whale and dolphin species, with melon-headed whales and orcas occasionally sighted.

2. Tubbataha Reef, Philippines

Photo: Sascha Caballero/Shutterstock

A remote marine park in the middle of the Sulu Sea, Tubbataha is completely void of human visitors, until the dive season opens for a brief three months between mid-March and mid-June. A handful of liveaboards make the 10-hour steam journey from Puerto Princesa in Palawan to what is considered the Philippines’ most pristine, wildlife-rich waters.

Unlike many reefs around the world, Tubbataha has been largely spared from heavy bleaching events and its reefs are blanketed with thriving colonies of soft and hard coral. Beneath the surface, a topography of caves, crevices, and overhangs create a wild and dramatic underwater landscape, coupled with visibility that often reaches 40m. The coral gardens are home to dense swarms of reef fish, and turtles are a common sight. Most Philippine reefs could hardly be described as “sharky,” yet Tubbataha’s protected status means sites like “Shark Airport” support a healthy population of sharks and rays. Expect to see reef sharks on most dives, and with a bit of luck, mantas, whale sharks, and perhaps even a tiger or hammerhead out in the blue.

3. Ambon, Indonesia

Photo: fenkieandreas/Shutterstock

Ambon Island is situated in the Moluccas, the legendary Indonesian spice islands. The tranquil harbor at Ambon Bay is slowly gaining recognition as one of the world’s premier muck diving destinations, comparable to the macro critter capital of Lembeh — only with far few divers, and just a handful of (mostly) budget-end resorts.

Ambon Bay is paradise for photographers and “small stuff” enthusiasts (marine life, that is). It’s home to iconic species such as the vividly colored rhinopias scorpionfish, countless varieties of nudibranch, mimic and blue ring octopus, harlequin and marble shrimp, bamboo sharks, and bobtail squid. It’s also one of the only places in the world where the “holy grail” of critters has been sighted — the psychedelic frogfish. Ambon isn’t exclusively a muck diving playground. There are a few well-preserved reefs outside the bay, and even the wreck of an enormous cargo ship, the SS Duke of Sparta.

4. Banda Islands, Indonesia

Photo: fenkieandreas/Shutterstock

A sprinkling of tiny islands in the Banda Sea, an area known as the “Ring of Fire” for its frequent volcanic activity, the Banda Islands inaccessibility has kept them a mystery to divers for years. Today, there are just a few small resorts on the mountainous island of Banda Neira, the only settlement of significant size in the Bandas.

To truly experience the diversity the archipelago’s 10 islands, a liveaboard is recommended. Apart from world class coral reefs swarming with huge clouds of fusiliers and triggerfish, and a mesmerising volcanic landscape of caves, pinnacles, and lava formations, the Bandas are said to be one of the best places in Indonesia to come face-to-face with turtles and big pelagics including dogtooth tuna, barracuda, eagle rays, mobulas, and melon-headed whales. Schooling hammerheads are notoriously difficult to find in Southeast Asia since rampant overfishing decimated their numbers. Banda remains one of Indonesia’s last strongholds for migrating hammerheads. Come in October or November for the best chance of a soul-stirring encounter with schools over 50 individuals strong.

5. Apo Reef, Philippines

Photo: Blue-sea.cz/Shutterstock

Not to be confused with the Philippine’s far more popular Apo Island in the province of Negros Occidental, Apo Reef Natural Park is located way off the coast of Occidental Mindoro, has no resort of any kind and is, in fact, the second-largest contiguous coral reef system in the world, and the largest in the country. The vast expanse of the marine park is dotted with numerous atoll-like reefs and three uninhabited islands.

Super-schools of fish are a rare sight in much of the Philippines, but at Apo, fields of hard coral support fishlife in breathtaking numbers. Expect to encounter walls of barracuda, swirling jack tornadoes, marauding giant trevally, curious Napoleon wrasse and enormous green and hawksbill turtles. Populations of large predators are slowly recovering after Apo was granted protected status in 1996. While white-tip reef sharks easily outnumber divers on most sites, you’ll need luck to catch a glimpse of a hammerhead or thresher shark.

Apo Reef is only reachable by liveaboard (and not the luxury kind). Trips depart sporadically, on a demand basis. Pandan Island Resort and Apo Reef Club on Mindoro offer “dive safaris” to Apo, or for something special, gather a small group of your best dive buddies and charter a private boat out of Dugong Dive Centre in Busuanga, Palawan.

6. Southern Leyte, Philippines

Photo: Paul Cowell/Shutterstock

Several of the Philippine islands have gained reputations as hotspots for whale sharks, and inevitably, whale shark tourism. Unfortunately, shark tourism in places like Cebu has turned natural shark habitats into zoo-like spectacles, complete with hoards of overexcited tourists behaving badly and controversial feeding practices that are believed to affect the shark’s natural behaviors.

Fortunately, tourism operators in other whale shark hotspots have resisted the urge to use feeding to lure the sharks into shallow water. Padre Burgos in Southern Leyte is one such place. Even though it hosts a considerable population of migrating whale sharks between November and April, the area is surprisingly light on tourists. While organized shark-spotting trips are snorkel-only affairs, there’s a good chance of glimpsing one cruising by while you explore one of Southern Leyte’s 30 odd dive sites. The shallow shore dives offer good muck hunting for pygmy seahorse, mantis shrimp, nudis, and ghost pipefish, while further out, current-swept Napantao is an impressive, coral-covered sheer wall descending straight to 50 meters.

7. Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar

Photo: Day2505/Shutterstock

With tourism hampered by half a century of strict military rule, the dive industry is still finding its feet in Myanmar. Even so, small groups of intrepid divers have been coming via liveaboard from Thailand to the Mergui Archipelago for years, looking for a respite from the crowds of divers and snorkelers across the border.

While many of Myanmar’s inshore reefs have been severely damaged by unsustainable fishing practices, the relative isolation of the Mergui Archipelago has allowed it to remain a worthy liveaboard destination for SCUBA enthusiasts seeking complete solitude and even the chance to explore as-yet undiscovered dive sites. With over 800 ruggedly forested islands, ringed by white sand beaches, sailing the Mergui resembles the tourist-less paradise of the Thai islands 30 years ago.

Many of the islands are surrounded by mangroves, which can result in less than stellar visibility, but they do provide a habitat for millions of juvenile reef fish and even the elusive dugong. Mergui’s rock islets harbor a number of underwater caves, while the famous Western Rocky island sports a diveable passage right through its heart and is often visited by majestic whale sharks.

8. Christmas Island, Australia

Photo: KiltedArab/Shutterstock

While this Indian Ocean island isn’t part of Southeast Asia geopolitically, geographically speaking, Christmas Island is very much an extension of the region. Despite being a remote offshore territory of Australia, Christmas Island is actually closer to Java than mainland Australia. The majority of the permanent population are either Malay or Malaysian Chinese.

Getting to this isolated outpost is a far-from-affordable exercise, involving two lengthy flights from Western Australia. But if you’re thirsting for truly untouched, frontier-style diving, the opportunity to be one of the very few divers to experience Christmas Island is well worth the effort.

Christmas Island is famous for the armies of red land crabs that swarm the jungle undergrowth and migrate to the sea to breed by the millions, their bright crimson spawn attracting hungry whale sharks between November and April. Beneath the waves, Christmas Island is more spectacular still. It boasts arguably the best shore dive in the world, and certainly one of the deepest. Jump straight off the jetty at Flying Fish Cove into a coral aquarium teeming with fish, some found nowhere else on the planet. Just a few hundred meters from shore, the reef drops off dramatically into the abyss. Marine life in the cove includes turtles, spinner dolphins, and the brilliantly patterned dragon moray. But perhaps Christmas Island’s most unusual site is Thundercliff Cave, a submerged tunnel which takes you underneath the island itself and allows you to surface inside for a breath of fresh subterranean air.


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Insane hikes with epic views

Toes peek over the precipice as your heart is pounding between deep breaths. The muscles aching, the tender about-to-burst blisters lining your sole, the relentless cycle of hunger and thirst — everything melts away as you reach a summit with a view few people get to see.

In our over-connected world, it’s easy to forget that places like this exist. Places without wifi or roads, where your own two feet are the only reliable form of transportation. So, if you’re looking to put some definition on those legs, here are seven treks around the world with views jaw-dropping enough to make you forget the pain it took to get there.

1. Annapurna Sanctuary Trek, Nepal

Photo: Daniel Prudeck/Shutterstock

Duration: 7-9 days

The bottom line: A popular trek in a remote location that delivers grandiose mountain peaks with guest houses providing lodging and hot meals throughout the route.

This trek winds from village to village through the Gandaki valley leading up to the base camp of Annapurna, the world’s tenth tallest mountain. Over the course of 9 days, you’ll hike from bamboo forest to alpine valley. While you’ll start seeing the fishtail-shaped peak of Machhapuchhre from day two, save some battery life for day five when you enter the Annapurna Sanctuary, a glacial basin ringed by snow-dusted peaks measuring over 23,000 ft. Altitude sickness is a real concern on this trek, so stick to gaining about 1,000ft per day once you’re above 10,000ft.

2. Angelus Hut, New Zealand

Photo: Viktor Hejna/Shutterstock

Duration: Overnight

The bottom line: This overnighter is great for those with limited time who want to have the experience of sleeping beside a glacial lake under a star-filled sky.

The South Island’s Angelus Hut sits on the edge of a glacial lake at 5,400 ft above sea level. There are two routes up — each taking about 6 hours — which allows for an alternative in case of bad weather or just a change of scenery on the way down. The Pinchgut track will have you scrambling over the Robert Ridge route’s scraggly rock piles high above the expansive Nelson Lakes National Park, while the slightly less dramatic Speargrass track includes several river crossings and small waterfalls. Beware the skin-slicing speargrass bushes that gave the route its name!

The hut itself has 28 bunks and only the most basic amenities so you’ll need to bring cooking supplies and a sleeping bag. If the night is clear, bundle up on the deck for some starry evening entertainment. As for most treks in New Zealand, reserve a space ahead of time during high season.

3. Mnweni-Rockeries Circuit, South Africa

Photo: Diriye Amey/Shutterstock

Duration: 4-5 days

The bottom line: Adventurers looking to experience the solitude of the Drakensberg Mountains with no frills or shelters.

If staying in villages and guest houses sounds too fancy, this trek in South Africa’s Drakensberg Mountains will satisfy any hikers looking to be self-sufficient in the wilderness. In this section of the popular mountain range, a cutback path will have you feeling like you’re the only person left on the planet. The path is strenuous, to say the least, but you’ll be picking your jaw up off the ground when you see Mpongwana (AKA the Rockeries Tower), the most celebrated peak of the region. Don’t miss out on the chance to camp in one of several caves available near the trail if you really want to get that post-apocalyptic feeling.

4. Pacific Crest Trail, United States

Photo: Bill45/Shutterstock

Duration: 5-6 months

The bottom line: If you want some serious bragging rights, live out of your pack for this life-changing 5-month trek that spans the length of the US.

Introduced to pop culture by Cheryl Strayed’s Wild, the Pacific Crest Trail is the ultimate entry on thru-hiking bucket lists. Most trekkers take about 5 months to finish, starting the trail in the desert of Southern California and ending in northern Washington. That’s 5 months of hiking, on average, twenty miles a day. So, yeah, not for the faint of heart (or busy of schedule). But for those five months, you’ll have a front row seat to the best views the United States has to offer including Mt. Rainier, the Klamath Mountains, and the High Sierra.

For those who want a taste of the thru-hiker life without the time commitment, try out the shorter John Muir Trail or do the overnighter to Stehekin, Washington, a remote lakeside town with only 75 inhabitants and one hell of a bakery.

5. Mountain Trail, Lebanon

Photo: NesterovIV/Shutterstock

Duration: 1 month

The bottom line: History buffs and thru-hikers unite on this trail that passes from village to village in the culturally-rich landscape of central Lebanon.

If you want a hearty dash of culture with your trekking, head to Lebanon to hike the country’s national trail. With a grant from USAID, the Lebanon Mountain Trail Association forged this trek to promote environmentally and culturally ethical travel in the remote central region of Lebanon, an area neglected by most visitors. The trail allows you to spend each night in a different village, where local guest houses provide homegrown food, simple accommodation, and insight into Lebanese life.

It’s recommended you hire a guide in each village who can then accompany you to the next, ensuring security and plenty of conversation.

6. Tusheti Region, Georgia

Photo: Levan Gokadze

Duration: 5 days

The bottom line: For those interested in exploring the quieter side of Europe — but still want to eat a lot of cheese and bread! — trek shepard paths through the Georgian Caucasus Mountains in the remote Tusheti region.

While the Alps are more famous, the Caucasus Mountains hold the record for the tallest peaks in Europe. On this five-day trek in Georgia, you follow ancient herding paths through alpine pastures leading to Medieval villages ringed with imposing stone towers. Plagued by poor roads, this hard-to-access region receives few outside visitors despite its rich culture and time-worn traditional lifestyle. Trek from the village of Omalo to Shatili, traversing the Pirikita range and Nakle-Kholi pass for endless views of undulating hills. Camp along the route or stay in the villages where you can have a hot meal of Khachapuri, homemade bread filled with Georgian cheese.

Be sure to take out enough money for the trek (plus emergencies), there are no ATMs in Tusheti.

7. Lençois Maranhenses National Park, Brazil

Photo: Pakawat Thongcharoen/Shutterstock

Duration: 5 days

The bottom line: Trade in mountains for sand dunes in the northeastern region of Brazil where you can hike in socks through a unique natural phenomenon of lake-scattered desert.

After heavy rain storms from January through June, lakes of aqua blue water gather in the dips and folds of the white sand desert of Lençois Maranhenses National Park. Spend five days trekking through this contrasting landscape, dipping in the refreshing pools when the Brazilian sun gets too hot. Your trekking day will start in the moonlight of early morning to avoid any movement in the midday sun, so you’ll have the afternoon to laze and explore. It’s easier to hike the dunes without shoes, so ditch the boots and bring plenty of socks.


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Underrated towns in Midwest

Perhaps, you’ve visited Chicago. Or Detroit, Indianapolis, or Milwaukee. These cities may give you the impression that you’ve seen all there is that’s worth visiting in the Midwest. But until you’ve taken the time to get to know its small towns, you don’t really know the Midwest. Once you do, you’ll see it’s more than major metropolitan areas.

The Midwest is also more than corn fields, cow tipping, and cheese-laden buffets. Historic downtowns, quirky traditions, and unspoiled nature contribute to the Midwest’s charm. Small towns, and their residents, make up a huge part of the Midwest most people never see. Instead of flying over or driving straight through, make a trip to these underrated small towns and see for yourself what the Midwest is really about. It’s time to set your stereotypes aside.

1. Woodstock, Illinois

Population: 25,528

Photo: Woodstock Opera House

Just 51 miles northwest of Chicago, Woodstock is an ideal day trip from the Windy City. Woodstock has appeared in several films including “Groundhog’s Day” and “Planes, Trains and Automobiles.” It also influenced one of America’s great creative minds. Writer Orson Welles lived in Woodstock while attending the Todd School for Boys, which closed in 1954. Four years before his legendary “War of the Worlds” broadcast, Welles performed at the Woodstock Opera House. Today, catch a show dedicated to Welles on that same stage. Although fully modernized, the Opera House retains its historic character.

2. Santa Claus, Indiana

Population: 2,463

Photo: Santa Claus, Indiana

Craving some holiday spirit? Visit this Southwestern Indiana town where it’s Christmas year-round. Originally known as Santa Fe, the city chose the festive name after the USPS denied its request for a post office, stating that Indiana already had a town of the same name. Santa Claus has a variety of themed attractions, including a free museum where children can write letters to Santa. Whether you’ve been naughty or nice this year, Santa Claus is worth a stop.

3. Bentonsport, Iowa

Population: 40

Photo: Bentonsport Historic District

During the 1840s, Bentonsport was a thriving port on the Des Moines River. Today, the town looks much like it did then, with shops and residences still inhabiting their original structures. Snap a picture on the town’s old truss bridge, or wander around the rose garden housed in the former lock and dam. If you don’t scare too easily, book a night’s stay at the Mason House Inn. Over the course of the inn’s 160-year history, three owners have died there, and one guest was murdered. Named one of the most haunted places in America, the inn served as a hospital during the Civil War. At least five spirits occupy the inn, according to owner Joy Hanson.

4. Lucas, Kansas

Population: 393

Photo: The Garden of Eden

Don’t miss the “Grassroots Art Capital of Kansas” where local folk art is found on nearly every corner. Get lost in the Garden of Eden, a permanent outdoor sculpture exhibit consisting of more than 150 works. Between 1905 and 1927, Civil War veteran and local artist S.P. Dinsmoor filled the space with sculptures depicting his interpretations of the Biblical creation, world history, and the Populist movement.

5. Frankfurt, Michigan

Population: 1,290

Photo: Kenneth Keifer/Shutterstock

Located on the state’s historic M-22 highway, travelers often pass through Frankfort on their way to Traverse City. But, rather than rushing off to the crowds in northern Michigan’s most popular destination, why not set up camp (literally, if you so choose) in northern Michigan’s best-kept secret? Pack your cooler with beers from Stormcloud Brewing Company, and spend the day canoeing or tubing down the Platte River. Work off the brews with a sandy hike in nearby Sleeping Bear Dunes, or bike the 22-mile Betsie Valley Trail.

6. Leader, Minnesota

Population: 7

Photo: The Bear’s Den

With single-digit residents, Leader doesn’t have a whole lot going on Monday through Friday. But, believe it or not, this small town is known for its weekend nightlife. The Bears Den, a popular neighborhood bar, hosts pig races. Pay $3 to watch piglets run around a track complete with obstacles. In the summer months, the races draw crowds of up to 500 people.

7. Cuba, Missouri

Population: 3,340

Photo: Historic Wagon Wheel Motel featuring Connie’s Shoppe

Regardless of current US global politics, you can still visit Cuba — Missouri, that is. A little over an hour’s drive from St. Louis, take in Cuba’s Route 66 charm. Four miles west of downtown, gaze up at the World’s Largest Rocking Chair. Stay at the Wagon Wheel Motel for the full Route 66 experience.

8. Ogallala, Nebraska

Population: 4,543

Photo: Tamy Nichole Thomason/Shutterstock

During frontier days, the West knew Ogallala as the toughest and most dangerous town in Nebraska. Because of the Union Pacific rail head located there, cowboys driving cattle from Texas consistently inundated the city. Liquor flowed, cards played, and bullets flew at the local saloon. If the Wild West-themed Front Street has you in the cowboy mood, visit Haythorn Ranch for wagon rides and chuckwagon dinners. Or retreat to the serene Lake McConaughy for some trout fishing.

9. Jud, North Dakota

Population: 72

Photo: Andrew Filer/Everydot.com

Known as the “Town of Murals,” Jud’s residents have painted nearly all the town’s buildings. The downtown stretches along an unpaved road, and the artwork ranges from landscapes and patriotic scenes to cartoon characters and postage stamps. Jud is 9 miles west of US Highway 281 and 25 miles south of Interstate 94.

10. Chagrin Falls, Ohio

Population: 3,995

Photo: Chagrin Falls Popcorn Shop

While it may seem counterintuitive to seek a relaxing stay in a town with a name like this, Chagrin Falls is a quaint stop between Cleveland and Akron. Chagrin Falls is the hometown of Calvin and Hobbes creator, Bill Watterson. In the downtown, nearby the city’s namesake waterfall, grab a snack at the Popcorn Shop, which was once a stop on the Underground Railroad. Still hungry? Stop in Dave’s Cosmic Subs for a sandwich and groovy vibes, man.

11. Dell Rapids, South Dakota

Population: 3,705

Photo: Little Red Chair/Shutterstock

Stretching hundreds of miles long, a vein of Sioux Quartzite runs from the Wisconsin Dells to eastern South Dakota through Dell Rapids. After a fire destroyed a significant part of the downtown in 1888, residents rebuilt the south side of Main Street out of their most plentiful material: pink quartzite. Many structures retain their original appearance. If you’re in town on a Friday night, catch a high school football or basketball game and cheer on the Dell Rapids Quarriers.

12. Baraboo, Wisconsin

Population: 12,048

Photo: Circus World

See what’s happening under the big top in Baraboo. Once the headquarters and winter home of the Ringling Brothers Circus, the pride of the town is the Circus World Museum. After perusing the circus artifacts and exhibits, be amazed by the daily live circus performances featuring clowns on unicycles, and trapeze artists swinging through the air. Don’t forget the cotton candy!

13. Davis, Oklahoma*

Population: 2,802

Photo: Patrick Horton/Shutterstock

Nestled in the Arbuckle Mountains, Davis is home to Oklahoma’s oldest and largest park: Turner Falls Park. The park’s highlight is a waterfall, which cascades into a natural swimming pool. After a dip, hike the nature trails or explore the caves. If you’re feeling extra adventurous, ride the 80-foot high zip line through the mountains and over the river.

*This last one is a bit of a bonus. In the middle of the country, there’s serious controversy as to whether Oklahoma is part of the Midwest or the South. Not even Oklahomans agree! So, this great state debate rages on.


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