ThDogs

“If you have a dog who—at least some amount of the time—has to walk on the field leash, you should absolutely make sure that he is fitted with a harness. In general, using a harness instead of a collar is preferable, but if your dog is on a long leash, it is vital. The danger of injury that a dog is exposed to is extremely high when he reaches the end of a leash with fifteen, thirty, or more feet. The entire pressure of the jerk he receives when he hits the end of the line is distributed across the cervical spine, larynx, thyroid, and trachea. You can compare this to the impact of crashing into another car at about 35 mph. Remember: we humans put the seat belt across our chests and don’t wrap it around our necks—and for a good reason. In my opinion, wearing a harness is always more sensible than wearing a collar—in field leash training it is indispensable!”
― Clarissa Von Reinhardt, Chase!: Managing Your Dog's Predatory Instincts

“So, if you are in a country whose traditional training methods involve training like this, you will need to question and think carefully about the methods you may encounter at your local training organisations or chapters — or sessions
with 'pros'. You may already have decided not to go along with the punitive methods which occur when the dog is force-fetched or broke, maybe leaving the classes at that point. But you might not have realised that you also need question the approach which precedes this — allowing the young dog to chase game, to run far and wide and-out of contact with you, to become ever more independent. Keep in mind that all those other dogs you see around you at training seminars, will be broke at some point and forced to comply with their handlers. Yours will not be. Your ability to retain control over your dog will rely on natural biddability; desire to please, engagement, gradually increased distractions', successful prevention, the strength of your relationship, and a history of positive reinforcement.

Make your training choices with this awareness in mind. Because you may need to make very different choices to a traditional handler from the start — even before the use of aversives has entered the picture — and perhaps to model your training more on the approach which is taken in countries where e-collars are not routinely used.”
― Jo Laurens, Force-Free Gundog Training: The Fundamentals for Success

“ON NOT REINVENTING THE 'OTHER DOG SPORTS' WHEEL
Most people compartmentalise dog sports. Instead, I would encourage you to think of (excellent training', generally — regardless of the sport involved. You never know when a skill or a behaviour you have learnt in application to another
sport, could help you in gundog training. And force-free gundog training needs this cross-fertilisation.
Other dog sports are light years ahead of gundog training when it comes to having developed effective force-free training solutions. Rather than reinventing the wheel (again), it makes sense to learn as much as possible from top
force-free trainers in other dog sports.”
― Jo Laurens, Force-Free Gundog Training: The Fundamentals for Success

“Guardians may feel panicked themselves when faced with the idea of working on separation anxiety without using food. So start small. Beginning with small increments of alone time, without a food toy, helps get the dog over the initial hump of not having a distraction; it also can yield the most lasting results. Just know that when I say small, I mean tiny. We can start with even 1 second — essentially, the guardian leaving and immediately returning — and create a series of repetitions of this activity. This repetition will lead to the dog eventually getting bored with all the brief comings and goings. Once bored, those 1-second absences can stretch to 2- or even 5-second absences, and the repetitions can proceed at the increased duration.”
― Malena Demartini-Price