Matthew Houde's Blog, page 9

Heredia, Costa Rica: City Guide

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Just a short drive from Costa Rica’s capital of San Jose is the smaller city of Heredia. This historic town has middle- and upper-class neighborhoods, universities, parks, and a downtown with a real local feel. In this post, we’ll give you a guide to Heredia, including some historic sites, activities, good restaurants, and popular hotels.

Location & Landscape

Heredia is located only 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) north of San Jose and just east of the SJO International Airport. Within the region known as the Central Valley, the area is densely populated but quickly turns rural as you travel into the surrounding hills.  

The elevation of Heredia is around 1,150 meters (3,370 feet). With warm daytime temperatures and cooler nights, gardens flourish here. For this reason, Heredia is often called the city of flowers.  

Heredia’s downtownHistory

The first Spanish colonizers settled in Heredia around 1575, joining already established indigenous farmers. In 1712, a parish was formed with a temple constructed at the site where the downtown is today. Heredia was founded as a town in 1705 and declared a city in 1824.

Notable figures in Heredia’s history include Nicolas Ulloa Soto, a leader in one of Costa Rica’s civil wars, and Manuel Maria Gutierrez, who wrote the country’s national anthem.

Three former Costa Rican presidents came from Heredia: Alfredo Gonzalez Flores, Cleto Gonzalez Viquez, and Oscar Arias Sanchez

One of the country’s largest universities, the National University of Costa Rica, is also located in Heredia.  

Sites Heredia’s Central Park

At the heart of Heredia is the central park.

This public gathering space has mature trees, flower gardens, and antique stone walkways. A large, three-tiered fountain, imported from England in 1879, is the park’s focal point, along with the neighboring church (see below). 

The park is dedicated to politician and merchant Nicolas Ulloa who promoted cultural development in Heredia. Like any city park, a few vendors and a lot of pigeons mingle with the locals who constantly come and go. 

Nicolas Ulloa Central ParkChurch of the Immaculate Conception of Mary

Next to Heredia’s central park stands the beautiful Iglesia La Inmaculada Concepcion de Maria (Church of the Immaculate Conception of Mary). 

Construction of the original building began in 1797, making it one of the oldest in Costa Rica. Work continued through the 1800s on the facade and twin bell towers. In 1879, the interior was remodeled to the style seen today. 

For those interested, this site has much more history about the church, which is still in use.  

Iglesia La Inmaculada Concepcion de Maria (Church of the Immaculate Conception of Mary)El Fortin

Also next to the central park, just steps to the north, is one of Heredia’s historic symbols, El Fortin.

This quirky, tower-shaped fort, was built in 1876 by Fadrique Gutierrez Guardia, the governor of the province. Gutierrez designed the building himself, more as an artist than an architect. 

Originally there were to be four similar structures built around the town but only one was ever funded. 

Today, Costa Rica has no army, but in the 1800s, the country experienced war and conflict. The fort, with its many sniper holes, was designed to help protect the city if it were ever attacked. 

El FortinCentral Market (Mercado de Heredia)

To further experience Heredia’s local culture, a visit to the central market is key.

Located a few blocks south of the park, you will find almost 150 merchant stalls here. 

Vendors sell everything from fruits, vegetables, seeds, and herbs, to meat, fish, leather goods, baskets, medicinal plants, and more. There is even a small stand that sells all the makings for tamales, a traditional food made from corn and wrapped in a banana leaf.

The market, inaugurated in 1889, has several small restaurants (called sodas). Narrow alleys connect all the vendors under one large roof.

Open daily from 6:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (7:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. on Sundays). 

Inside Heredia’s Central Market (Mercado de Heredia)Oxigeno Human Playground

At the opposite end of the spectrum from the historic downtown is the nearby Oxigeno Mall.

This modern mall has around 200 storefronts with many international brands and restaurants. 

With one of the world’s largest ETFE cushioned roofs (a lightweight, almost transparent material) and a large park and playground, there’s also lots of outdoor space to enjoy.

The pet-friendly mall has a climbing wall, many play structures for kids, and even a small zip-line, making it really unique.   

Oxigeno Human PlaygroundNearby ActivitiesToucan Rescue Ranch

This wildlife rescue and rehabilitation center takes in injured or confiscated animals and gives them a second chance.

Toucan Rescue Ranch offers tours at their facility in the hills outside Heredia. Here, you can meet some of the wildlife that isn’t able to be released back into the wild. 

Some of the animals you can see include monkeys, toucans, parrots, sloths, and owls. For much more about the tour and our experience visiting, read our post Toucan Rescue Ranch: Wildlife and Sloth Tour. 

An aracari (relative to the toucan) at Toucan Rescue RanchMonte de la Cruz

On the outskirts of Heredia up a mountain road is Monte de La Cruz. This recreational area has a few trails, gardens, playgrounds, open spaces, and a nice viewpoint overlooking San Jose. 

A unique feature of the property is that you can rent small, covered picnic areas. Many locals visit to escape the city on weekends and holidays and spend the whole day.

Read our article, Monte de la Cruz: A Relaxing Locals’ Park in Heredia, for more info.

El Arca Botanical Garden & Restaurant

For a fun day in a tranquil setting, we loved our visit to El Arca Botanical Garden and restaurant. 

On a guided or self-guided tour of the gardens, you can see, smell, and taste some of the 1,600 different plant species in their botanical collection. 

We highly recommend staying for lunch so that you also can experience the elegant multi-course tasting menu. Many of the ingredients are pulled daily from the garden.

Read more with our post, El Arca Botanical Garden & Restaurant. 

One of the many gardens at El ArcaCafe Britt 

Heredia has a long history of coffee farming. In fact, Nicolas Ulloa (mentioned above) was once one of the country’s largest coffee merchants. 

For a short history of coffee in Costa Rica, along with a demonstration and tasting, there is Cafe Britt. Cafe Britt is one of Costa Rica’s largest coffee roasters. They are located just north of downtown Heredia. Read our post for more about the experience. 

Restaurants

Heredia has many restaurants, cafes, and bars. Here are some that we have enjoyed. 

Caribbean Corner

Food from Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast is unique and flavorful. At Caribbean Corner, in downtown Heredia, it is as authentic as it gets. Flavors of coconut, chiles, and lime touch dishes like pollo caribeno (Caribbean chicken), sopa rondon (rondon soup), and more.

A typical plate at Caribbean CornerRock & Burger

This small burger restaurant serves up artisan burgers stuffed with cheese on homemade bread. Each burger at Rock & Burger is named after legendary rock n’ roll bands like AC/DC, Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, and more. There’s also a foosball table if you are up for a game. 

Heladeria El Crucero

Probably the most popular ice-cream shop we have ever visited is Heladeria El Crucero. Customers here line up on afternoons and weekends for heaping portions of ice cream with special toppings like marshmallow sauce. Located a block north of the central park. 

One of the local favorites at Heladeria El CruceroPizzeria Rosso di Roma

For crispy wood-fired pizza, focaccia, and calzones, head to Pizzeria Rosso di Roma. This newer restaurant has quickly made a name for itself. The nicely decorated interior is cozy and comfortable. They sometimes have live music. Take-out is also available. 

Passiflory 

Get to this bakery early for sweet treats and fresh baked breads because they sell out fast. Passiflory bakes everything from traditional sourdough or wheat to interesting Japanese shokunin bread, bagels, and croissants. For sweets, we loved the chocolate eclairs and fruit tarts. We’ve driven out of our way to visit Passiflory more than once!

Some of the selection you’ll find at PassifloryHotelsFinca Rosa Blanca Coffee Farm and Inn

Finca Rosa Blanca is a well-known hotel and coffee farm outside Heredia. It sits on a 30-acre property in the lush hills north of the city. The 14 villas and suites are well appointed and incorporate traditional Costa Rican wood and artwork. There is a farm-to-table restaurant and organic coffee tour on site. Finca Rosa Blanca has attained a sustainability certification in Costa Rica, $225-400+/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.   

Finca Rosa Blanca hotel and coffee farmHotel Bougainvillea

The highlight of a stay at Hotel Bougainvillea is the property’s 10-acre botanical garden with lush flowers and interesting trees. This upscale hotel is known for good service and a comfortable atmosphere. An on-site restaurant is available. $120-190/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Hotel Terrazas de Golf 

A short distance west of Heredia is Hotel Terrazas de Golf. Overlooking a quiet golf course and close to the airport, this is a peaceful bed and breakfast with friendly, family-run staff. We have always enjoyed our stays. 

Our readers get a special discount at Hotel Terrazas de Golf. Email us at bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com with your name, number of people, dates, and preferred room type (see room types here). We’ll then connect you with the hotel, which will process your reservation at 10% off. 

Hotel Terrazas de Golf near SJO AirportConclusion

A visit to Heredia offers a look back in history, a glimpse of today’s culture, and some fun activities as well. We recommend it to anyone looking to experience a true locals’ city in Costa Rica.

Have a question about visiting Heredia? Have you been? Leave a comment below.

Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you book a hotel using one of the links, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Read our Privacy Policy for more information.

Looking for more information to help plan your trip. Check out these articles:

How to Spend 1 or 2 Days in San Jose, Costa Rica – If you are looking to explore the downtown’s museums and National Theater, this post is for you. 

Costa Rica Children’s Museum – Museo de Los Ninos – Not far from Heredia, this museum is inside a castle-like building. The museum is fun for kids and also shares some of Costa Rica’s history and culture. 

The Truth About Visiting Poas Volcano – Is a visit to this famous volcano worth it? In this post we share our thoughts and experiences.

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Toucan Rescue Ranch: Wildlife and Sloth Tour

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

If you’re in the San Jose area and would like to see a wildlife rehabilitation center, the Toucan Rescue Ranch is a great option. We recently visited and it was one of the best wildlife center tours we’ve done in Costa Rica. We did the sanctuary tour and sloth tour. In this post, we’ll give some background on the Toucan Rescue Ranch organization and what to expect on a visit.

Location

The Toucan Rescue Ranch is located in the mountains just north of San Jose in a small town called San Isidro de Heredia. It is about a 30-minute drive from downtown San Jose. Heredia is the closest major city.

How Toucan Rescue Ranch Started

Toucan Rescue Ranch was founded by Leslie Howle. Leslie’s background is that she lived in Costa Rica for part of her childhood, later moved, and then came back to Costa Rica in her 40s.

Upon her return, she started the Toucan Rescue Ranch with the aim of helping to rehabilitate toucans that had been injured in the wild or kept as pets. Hence the name, Toucan Rescue Ranch.

Costa Rica’s environmental agency (MINAE) recognized their success with toucans and soon started bringing them different types of birds.

Seeing that other animals needed help too, especially sloths, the organization expanded once again in 2007. Now, the Toucan Rescue Ranch helps all types of birds and mammals in Costa Rica out of their facility near Heredia.

The enclosures at Toucan Rescue Ranch’s wildlife sanctuary

They also have a property in the lush jungle of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui on the Caribbean slope. This is where the sloths finish their rehabilitation program and are released.  

Tour

After a short drive from Heredia, we arrived at the entrance for the Toucan Rescue Ranch. It was cooler and misty, common weather for this mountainous area.

We passed through the large wooden gate and met some volunteers and staff. They directed us to the visitors center. Here, we met Joselyn, a tropical biologist. She would be our guide for the day.

Visitors Center with the sloth viewing area in backgroundSloth TourBackground

Jocelyn started with some background on the Toucan Rescue Ranch. We learned the rules for the tour as well: no touching the animals, no using a flash for photos, and no taking selfies. These measures all help to protect the wildlife.

Jocelyn then told us that we would be starting our day with the sloth tour and doing the sanctuary after.

Since sloths are a big part of the organization, we learned some details about the center’s sloth program.

Sloth School, as they call it, starts with preschool. This is where baby sloths who have been separated from their mother begin when they first arrive at the facility. They then go on to elementary school to learn to eat solids and climb. Middle school is next, followed by high school, where they’re in the “classroom” (an outdoor enclosure). Finally, the sloths go to university, an enclosure in the rainforest that lets them acclimate to being in the wild. Once ready, they are released.

Soon we got to meet Helga, the two-toed sloth we would be spending the next half-hour or so with.

Helga the Sloth

A vet brought out Helga in a large plastic container. Being careful not to handle her too much, the vet helped her onto some tree branches in the space next to us. This area was completely open to the elements and had a large tree and some extra branches that made a climbing structure.

Helga quickly began exploring, using her strong legs and claws to grasp onto the branches. We watched her sniff the air, heading toward a hibiscus flower that the staff had left. Grabbing it, she quickly devoured the pink petals. Jocelyn explained that sloths have a good sense of smell, but poor vision, which is why she was sniffing around.

Helga, the two-toed sloth we got to meet on the Sloth Tour

The sloth was only 10 feet or so away and without a barrier between us, we could get a good look at her.

Jocelyn explained that the story behind Helga was that she was living in a town park. When she was around two years old, the tree she was in was cut down without them realizing she was in it.

She arrived at Toucan Rescue Ranch and started the sloth program. Helga made it all the way through university but then didn’t want to get off the ground (sloths need to live in trees for safety) so couldn’t be released. She will now live the rest of her life in the sanctuary.

Wildlife Sanctuary Tour Background

After some coffee and a snack, we started the wildlife sanctuary tour.

Toucan Rescue Ranch has a wildlife rehabilitation center where their veterinarians and staff care for animals that have been brought in. This area is closed off to visitors as they do not want the wildlife to get used to people. They release after rehabilitation whenever possible.

Visitors get to check out the sanctuary, which is where animals go when they cannot be released back into the wild.

Jocelyn took us around the short path to see the different enclosures and learn each animal’s story.

Sloths

We started by meeting some more two-toed sloths. First, we saw Georgia, the oldest animal at the sanctuary. She came to Toucan Rescue Ranch when she was a baby and is now 12 years old.

One of the two-toed sloths at the sanctuary

Stevie, another two-toed sloth, ended up at the sanctuary when she dropped out of university and wouldn’t feed herself. Latte, the sloth, had the same problem.  

Oncilla

Next, we met Taboo, an oncilla. This small spotted cat was kept in a house in Coronado. He was fed by humans and raised as a domestic cat. Taboo still needs a litter box today to go to the bathroom.

Birds

They also had a lot of birds of prey.

Roadkill, a roadside hawk, came from a city after being hit by a car when hunting. He lost a wing so can’t fly anymore.

Night Wing and Batman were Bat Falcons. They were also hit by cars when hunting bats at night.

One of the Bat Falcons

Kirk, a Crested Caracara, the biggest type of falcon in Costa Rica, didn’t perform well during a flying test so couldn’t be released.

We also got to see two Spectacled Owls, the largest owl in Costa Rica, and several Scarlet and Great Green Macaws. The Scarlet Macaws were confiscated after being pets.

A Scarlet Macaw showing off

Felicia, the ocelot, was another big cat that was kept as a pet inside a small room of a house for nine years. She didn’t get any light so her fur got really pale.

Felicia the ocelot

The center had several toucans, aracaris (relatives of toucans), and green parrots as well. Some of them had been injured and some kept as pets.

A beautiful green parrotMonkeys

The story of Samba the spider monkey was particularly compelling.

Samba had been kept as pet. A little girl who lived nearby saw the monkey and asked her parents about it. Her parents said it was nothing to worry about. She learned at school, though, that it is illegal to have wild animals as pets in Costa Rica. So the little girl brought the monkey into the police herself!

Samba the spider monkey

One of our kids’ favorite animals was the tropical river otter. The center got him as a baby. Some kids were throwing rocks at him and his mother. His mother got scared off and didn’t come back. Joselyn told our kids that the otter liked to play a game where you run alongside the tank, and he would follow. Sure enough, the otter loved this enrichment activity and so did our two boys.

The charming tropical river otter

For each animal, Jocelyn told us not only how it got to the facility but also interesting facts about the species.

Supporting Toucan Rescue Ranch

We have done many wildlife center tours in Costa Rica, and this was one of the best. Our guide was extremely knowledgeable and passionate about her job. From walking the grounds and interacting with the team that works there, it is clear that Toucan Rescue Ranch is a well-run organization.

Their sloth tour is particularly special as it allows you to see a sloth close up, without a fence in between. The staff at Toucan Rescue Ranch limits their interaction with the animal and has rules that prevent people from getting too close.

You can find other sloth tours in Costa Rica but be aware that some of them are illegal. We have heard of people taking sloths from the wild and bringing them to their private nature reserve just so that it’s easier for people to see them.

When booking a sloth tour, be sure that the tour operator is reputable. A good clue that something isn’t right is if the tour guarantees you’ll see a sloth in the wild. Aside from a wildlife rescue center, it is difficult to guarantee a sloth sighting. Sloths are very territorial and are often hiding high in the rainforest canopy.

Adopting an Animal and Amazon Wish List

You can support the work of Toucan Rescue Ranch just by doing a tour. You also can donate (Toucan Rescue Ranch is a U.S. 501(c)(3) non-profit) or symbolically adopt an animal.

Another way to help is to bring something from their Amazon Wish List that is hard to get in Costa Rica. Here’s the link.

Visiting the Toucan Rescue Ranch

Advanced reservations are required. Tickets can be purchased directly through their website.

Sanctuary Tour (Classic Ranch Walk)

2 hours

$37/adult, $19/seniors age 65+, $19/children ages 6-10

Sloth & Coffee Tour (Includes Classic Ranch Walk)

2.5 hours

$62/adult, $32/seniors age 65+, $32/children ages 6-10

Accessibility

Toucan Rescue Ranch is handicap accessible. The sanctuary path is very short and flat.

Conclusion

Our family really enjoyed our visit to the Toucan Rescue Ranch. Getting to see Helga the sloth so close, going about her day, was really special. Our kids also loved being able to see the other animals in their enclosures and learn the story behind each one.

Have a question about visiting the Toucan Rescue Ranch or have you been? Leave a comment below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

El Arca Botanical Garden & Restaurant: Another great day trip from San Jose is this botanical garden and farm-to-table restaurant.

Kids Saving the Rainforest: If you’re visiting the Manuel Antonio area, Kids Saving the Rainforest is another wonderful wildlife center to check out.

A Classic Costa Rican Coffee Tour at Cafe Britt – Café Britt is one of Costa Rica’s largest coffee producers. Learn more about the growing and production process on a visit.

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Adrian’s Coffee Tour Near San Ramon

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Behind every good cup of coffee there is a story to be told. Years of hard work, thoughtful planning, coordination, perseverance, and execution. On the mountainside in San Ramon, not only can you hear a coffee story like this but taste it as well. In this post, we’ll share our experience at Adrian’s Coffee Tour and let you know how to visit.    

Location

Adrian’s Coffee Tour and Farm is located just 25 minutes west of San Ramon in a small town called Potrerillos de Piedades Sur. San Ramon is an authentic locals’ city with a history of coffee farming.

At about one hour from Costa Rica’s SJO International Airport, many visitors pass through this area on their way to La Fortuna to see the famous Arenal Volcano.

Arriving at Adrian’s Coffee Farm

After weaving along a country road outside San Ramon, we arrived in the small village of Potrerillos de Piedades Sur. Farm fields and forest mixed on the roadsides. Houses were spread out.

Following our phone’s directions, we slowed and turned up a dirt driveway. There, in an open barn, we saw Adrian. He was waiting alongside his son and daughter.    

Dressed in blue jeans, a button-up shirt, and a wide brimmed hat, Adrian had a calm, comfortable demeanor as he greeted our family. It immediately relaxed us after we had rushed to get to the tour.

Adrian holding a coffee picking basket his grandfather made by hand out of vines from the forestAdrian’s Coffee TourHow It All Started

Adrian began by telling us about his coffee project. When we visited, his coffee tour was new, though he explained that he’d been growing coffee and other crops his whole life.

Typically, the family would sell most of the coffee harvest to local cooperatives. They did keep some beans, though, and Adrian can remember his grandparents drying and roasting them by hand.  

As a kid and still today, Adrian told us that the best prices are given for the best quality coffee beans. As an adult, Adrian knew his beans were excellent quality, but even at the highest prices, the money from the cooperatives wasn’t much.

A coffee station up the road. This is where freshly picked coffee beans are transferred into trucks and brought to the nearby cooperative. 

Adrian explained that his beans would get mixed with coffee from other farms and shipped out to be sold as different blends. It was those coffee companies that were making all the money, not the small farmers.

Selling coffee to the consumer is where Adrian could see an opportunity. The price for a bag of roasted beans or ground coffee was much more than that of raw coffee. And, if he grew, roasted, and sold his own coffee, he could really show off the quality of beans his farm produced.   

Walking the Coffee Field

Down the nearby slope, rows of small coffee plants were growing in rich soil. As we walked along some steps, Adrian explained that this field was small, but he had much larger ones up the road.

It was here that we learned about all the work that goes into each plant, and in turn, each bean. Adrian explained that it takes two months for a coffee plant to sprout, then six-to-eight more months before it can be planted in the field.

The plants we saw were young and vulnerable. We learned that they needed constant care for about four years before producing any coffee fruits.

Young coffee plants growing at Adrian’s farmA Sustainable Approach

Adrian went on to explain about some of the setbacks his coffee plants can encounter like fungi and insects. While most farms use sprays and chemicals, he tries to avoid them.

He led us along a trail to the neighboring forest. It was darker and cool.  

Moving some leaves from beneath a tree, Adrian pointed to the rich black dirt. It was mixed with decomposing leaves and sticks. He explained that this mix contained a whole ecosystem of microorganisms. It’s how the forest keeps itself healthy.

Rich compost from the forest floor

Adrian takes small amounts of the forest compost and uses it to make compost tea. This natural liquid is then sprayed all around the plants in his field. The compost tea can kill bad bacteria and fungus. It also feeds the plants.

Adrian also plants other trees and fruits in the coffee fields to increase biodiversity.

With happy, healthy plants comes good coffee.  

Coffee Processing Husking

After seeing the field, it was time to learn how the coffee was processed.

Adrian led us to a big green machine at the top of the hill. He poured a basket of red and green coffee fruits (called cherries) into the top of a loud machine. It quickly churned them into a container below.

Coffee beans being husked

In the process, this machine removed the fruit part of the coffee, leaving just the beans. From there, they composted the fleshy fruit and dried the remaining coffee beans.

Drying – The Honey Process

Another important part of the coffee’s flavor, we learned, is how the coffee is dried.

Adrian uses what is known as the honey process. This means that the coffee beans are dried while they still have a sticky, sugary outer membrane intact. This membrane passes its sweetness onto the coffee bean, hence the honey name.

A lot of other coffee producers remove the sweet outer membrane with water before drying. But Adrian believes it gives the coffee a better flavor.

Next, we peeked into a nearby greenhouse where the beans were drying. As soon as we entered, we noticed how hot it was. Adrian said that on sunny days, temperatures inside can soar to 50 °C (122 °F).

The beans would dry here for eight to ten days, Adrian said. He needed to rake them often to promote even drying.

Drying the coffee beansHusking – Part Two

Before roasting, there was one more step in the coffee process. That thin outer membrane on the coffee bean, now dried, needed to be removed.

Adrian brought us over to a wooden pilon, which is like a giant mortar and pestle. He demonstrated how in the old days they would use the heavy wooden pestle to crush off the outer shell of the coffee. Then he gave us each a chance.

The old-fashion method

Adrian remembered doing this as a kid with his grandmother for hours on end. He then led us to a machine in his barn, which saves them hours of the backbreaking work.

The result after this step was raw coffee, or what Adrian called café oro. It had a tan-golden color and a sweet aroma.  

Dried, raw coffee beansRoasting

While beautiful, the raw coffee still needed more work to be ready. Roasting was the next step.

For our tour, Adrian used a mini roasting machine to make us a small batch of both light and dark roast.

Freshly roasted beans!

While it was rotating over a small flame, he explained that he sends about 25% of his coffee to his sister nearby. She has a professional grade (expensive) roaster that is more consistent than home methods.

At the roaster, Adrian’s coffee is heated to about 93 °C (200 °F) using a special computer program. This program heats the coffee beans evenly at different temperatures along a curve until they are roasted to perfection.

Currently, Adrian sells the other portion of his crop as raw coffee to be roasted commercially. He hopes to roast more of his own as his business grows.

Adrian’s light and dark roast coffeeTasting

After a relaxing and informative tour, it was finally time for a taste. Adrian and his kids all participated in helping prepare our cups. We tried a light roast, then a dark.

Adrian’s daughter used this traditional method, called a chorreador, to brew the coffee

As we drank, we talked to Adrian about his small town, the coffee industry, and Costa Rica in general. Our two boys laughed and played with his young son outside.  

The flavors of Adrian’s coffee were memorable. In each sip, we could taste what we had just experienced. Earthy rich flavors, sweet honey, and all that hard work that goes into every good cup of coffee.

Planning Your VisitHours

Adrian’s Coffee offers tours daily between 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. with prior reservations only.

Price

$15 per person

How to Book

Adrian’s Coffee Tour has a website with more information and contact. We recommend using WhatsApp: (506) 8862-4063. If you are outside Costa Rica, be sure to add +1 before the number.

Tours are offered in English or Spanish.  

Purchasing Coffee

When visiting, make sure to bring some extra cash to buy bags of coffee beans or ground coffee. After tasting it, you will definitely want to bring some home. We wish we had bought more!

Have a question about visiting Adrian’s Coffee or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Renting a Car in Costa Rica: Clearing Up the Confusion – Not all car quotes are accurate. Find out about Costa Rica’s mandatory insurance, extra fees, and other charges that some companies do not include in their price.

La Fortuna: What to Expect from Costa Rica’s Most Popular Destination – Most travelers have La Fortuna on their list and for good reason. Find out about activities, hotels, restaurants, and more with this post.

Using ATMs and Credit Cards in Costa Rica – Many people ask if they can use their card for purchases or if they need to take out local currency. We cover it all here.

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El Arca Botanical Garden & Restaurant

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Not far from San Jose, on the outskirts of the city of Heredia, is a beautiful, little-known botanical garden. El Arca Botanical Garden has several gardens with everything from medicinal and edible plants to ornamentals, flowers, and fruit trees. A highlight of visiting El Arca for us was enjoying the elaborate six-course farm-to-table meal. In this post, we’ll tell you more about touring El Arca Botanical Garden and the restaurant experience.

Location

El Arca Jardin Botanica (El Arca Botanical Garden) is located in the hills of Santa Barbara de Heredia. Although this area is quiet and peaceful, it’s only about 20 minutes from San Jose Airport and a half-hour from downtown San Jose.

The main building overlooking San JoseBackground

The botanical garden sits on a large 20-acre (8-hectare) parcel. The history of El Arca is that about 45 years ago, the property was a coffee plantation. The owner began transitioning the land to grow herbs for export. Wanting to focus more on making a botanical garden, he later sold the herbs business and started collecting plants from all around the world.

Today, El Arca holds one of the largest collections of herbs, plants, and flowers in Central America. They now have more than 1,600 medicinal and ornamental species.

The mission of El Arca is to educate and share knowledge about the use of plants to help improve the well-being of people and the planet. The garden is set up as a foundation, which the owner intends to leave as a legacy for Costa Rica.

Property Set Up

The property is situated on a hill, with several different sections of gardens. See below for a map.

Both guided and unguided tours are available. Because we wanted to learn more about the plants, we opted for a guided tour.

The Tour Introduction

We met our guide, Eric, just outside the main building, which houses the reception and restaurant.

In a wide-brimmed straw hat, he introduced himself and led us to the first garden.

Along a well-manicured path, we took in the long, tidy rows of medicinal plants and herbs.

The medicinal plant garden

A sign at the entrance provided a detailed legend of what to look for. These symbols would help us identify plants that were edible, ornamental, medicinal, used for colorants, perfumes, construction, and even toxic or hallucinogenic.

The legend of plants at the botanical gardenMedicinal Garden

Eric pointed to different plants and told us a little bit about them.

Jackass bitters, we learned, is good for migraines, though has an unpleasant taste.

Dragon blood is used as an antiseptic. Eric said that he had recently used it to heal a large wound in just 10 days.

Our guide taking some of the resin from the Dragon tree, called Dragon’s Blood due to the colorRubbing the resin on his skin to show us how it can heal a wound

We also saw a large tea tree, several types of cinnamon, black pepper, and many varieties of aloe.

Culinary Garden

From the medicinal garden, we walked down the hill to the culinary garden. This had some interesting edible plants that we had never seen before.

Finger lime was a green fruit with tiny balls of sour gel inside that popped when you ate them, similar to caviar. We would get to enjoy this later in a cocktail at the restaurant.

The cool insides of a finger lime fruit

The cucamelon was a small round fruit that looked exactly like a baby watermelon on the outside but a cucumber on the inside.

They also had an assortment of edible flowers, like the purple butterfly pea, and many plants used for coloring food. Eric took one of them, a garden huckleberry, broke it open, and smeared the purple insides on his hand to show us. He was very knowledgeable about all the plants and encouraged us to smell and taste what was growing.

Smearing a garden huckleberry, the perfect natural food colorantOther Areas

After trying some of the edible plants, we headed to the Sacred Garden. We wouldn’t be sampling any of these, which were known for their strong medicinal effects.

We saw the ayahuasca plant growing wildly. This vine is used by Amazonian shaman for a variety of medicinal, spiritual, and cultural purposes. We also saw Chinese ephedra, which people are using to make methamphetamines.

Past this garden was an open area with lots of large fruit trees. Here, we saw many types common in Costa Rica, like avocado and mangosteen, but also others we weren’t familiar with, like the cola tree from Africa.

El Arca Restaurant

After our tour, we got to taste some of the garden’s bounty for lunch.

The restaurant space at El Arca is formal and gorgeous. It has high ceilings and lovely colonial architecture. The dining room overlooks the Central Valley. Tables are set up on a covered terrace as well as inside the restaurant.

The terrace

El Arca’s restaurant uses ingredients straight from their garden. The menu changes frequently based on what is available and fresh.

The Multi-Course Meal

On our visit, we had a six-course lunch. The first course was a variety of artisanal breads served with herbed olive oil.

The second course was a pejibaye dip, made from the fruit of the peach palm tree. Pejibaye is common in Costa Rica, but we had never had it like that before. It was decadent and lovely as a dip for our fresh veggies and pita crisps.

Our third course was an elegant zucchini carpaccio in a lemony Caribbean sauce. They made this with some of the lemon caviar from the garden.

Zucchini Carpaccio

Next came a carrot and pineapple salad.

Then we had the main course: panko-covered local trout served with a turmeric tartar sauce.

Panko-covered trout

Finally, we ended with sapote pie with chocolate mousse and caramel sauce. Sapote is a native fruit that tastes similar to pumpkin when ripe. This dessert was a crowd pleaser. Even our four-year old ate every last bite!

Sapote pie, similar to pumpkin pieDrinks

They also had some nice options for cocktails. Cocktails are not always the best in Costa Rica, but our gin herbs martini was perfectly balanced and refreshing.

We didn’t visit it, but there’s also a meadery on the property. The restaurant had several types of their wine, beer, mead, and spirits on the menu.

Kids Menu

They had options for kids too. Our kids had fish fingers with French fries, but there were other things to choose from.

Planning Your Visit to El Arca Botanical GardenGuided Tours

Cost: Visitors – $45 per person. Nationals and Residents – $35 per person.

Duration: 2 hours

Guided tours need to be arranged in advance. You can contact El Arca Botanical Garden directly through their website for reservations.

Unguided Tours

Cost: Visitors – $10 per person. Nationals and Residents – $8 per person.

Map and Accessibility

El Arco’s gardens are not handicap accessible, but the terrain is mostly flat and well maintained. You do have to walk down a somewhat steep hill to reach some of the gardens. They have a resting area near the bottom of the hill.

To get back up the hill to the reception area at the end of the tour, they can take you in a golf cart.

Property mapRestaurant

Lunch: Open Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 p.m. – 2.30 p.m. Closed Mondays.

Be sure to make a reservation in advance. You can contact El Arca Botanical Garden directly through their website for reservations.

Cost: Adults – 17,500 colones (around $32). Children – 7,500 colones (around $15).

You can find the current menu on their Facebook page.

Vivero/Nursery

For those living in Costa Rica looking to add some unique plants to their garden, El Arca also has a nursery with plants for purchase. They even have an inventory of what’s available on their website.

What to Bring

Comfortable walking shoes

Hat and sunscreen (most of the gardens are in full sun)

An umbrella and light raincoat (during rainy season – May through early December)

Conclusion

Finding El Arca Botanical Garden on a visit to the Heredia area was a welcome surprise for us. Not only is it the perfect stop for plant and garden enthusiasts, but it’s also an amazing foodie destination. Our lunch was one of the best we’ve had in our years living in Costa Rica. We will definitely be back again to see what’s coming fresh from their garden.

Have a question about visiting El Arca Botanical Garden or have you been? Let us know in the comments below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

Wilson Botanical Garden: On the far southern end of Costa Rica is another well-known botanical garden. Check out our post to learn more.

Villa Vanilla Spice Farm: A Rainforest of Flavors Near Manuel Antonio – Villa Vanilla is a biodynamic farm where you can see cinnamon, vanilla, pepper, and other spices growing. Their tour includes a delicious dessert tasting.

The Truth About Visiting Poas Volcano: Poas is the most popular volcano to visit near San Jose but is it worth the trip? Check out our post for more.

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Why to Get Travel Insurance When Visiting Costa Rica

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Many people are unsure why they need travel insurance for their trip to Costa Rica. In this post, we’ll explain why travel insurance is a good idea both to protect your investment and for medical coverage. To give you some context, we’ll share the experience of a friend of ours who needed medical attention on his trip. We’ll also give a couple of options for travel insurance companies.

Disclaimer: We are not experts in travel insurance so be sure to do your own research and read the full policy details before making a purchase to decide if a particular plan is right for you.

Why Should You Get Travel Insurance?Reimbursement for Non-refundable Trip Costs

When you plan a trip to Costa Rica, you will have made reservations for flights and hotels/Airbnbs in advance and most likely for transportation and activities too.

Many of these expenses will be non-refundable after a certain date. So, if you needed to cancel your trip because of sickness, injury, etc., you would lose that money. Travel insurance helps cover these kinds of non-refundable expenses. It also kicks in if you need to end your trip early.

Medical Coverage

The other very important part of travel insurance is medical coverage.

Many people do not realize this, but once you leave your home country, usually your insurance doesn’t cover you abroad.

This means that if you got hurt or sick during your visit to Costa Rica, you would need to pay for medical treatment out of pocket. Most hospitals in Costa Rica require you to put a credit card down in advance to guarantee payment before they will even treat you (for anything major).

Although medical care in Costa Rica is a lot more affordable than in some countries like the United States, it can still add up.

A private clinic in Playas del CocoOur Friend’s Experience Getting Hurt and Needing Medical Care

We have always recommended travel insurance to people we help book tours and transportation for, but it was only recently that we were inspired to write this article after one of our friends got hurt on a trip.

Our friends from the United States (a family) visited the Jaco area recently. Everything was going great until one of them (one of the adults) fell during a hike. He fell from quite high up and ended up rupturing his lung because of the impact of the fall. Keep in mind that this was not a difficult hike, just a fluke accident.

He went to a small private medical clinic in Jaco, where they did an X-ray and provided immediate care. They determined that he needed to be transferred to San Jose right away to a facility that could perform a specialized surgery. He went by ambulance and stayed at a private hospital in San Jose for three days.

Although he was feeling much better by the time he was discharged, he couldn’t fly yet because of his lung. It needed more time to heal. Normally this would mean staying somewhere short term, like an Airbnb or hotel, which would have additional costs, but luckily, he could stay with us.

Doctors continued to monitor his lung with more follow-up X-rays leading up to his scheduled flight. He had to change his flight once more since his lung still wasn’t ready. Finally, he was able to leave about 10 days after his original flight date.

All in all, the accident ended up costing him about $15,000 (USD). The ambulance ride alone was $1,500!

He is back in the United States now and recovering well. But unfortunately, they didn’t get travel insurance, so it was quite costly.

Travel Insurance Options

There are a lot of options for travel insurance. Usually it’s very affordable, and totally worth the peace of mind in our opinion.

Here are a couple of companies that we recommend and some key information about their plans.

You can get quotes using the links below. The premium price is based on your trip cost, age, and some other factors as well.

*Note: If you purchase an insurance policy through the links below, we earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We would recommend getting travel insurance even if we didn’t earn a commission. Thank you for supporting our site!

TravelexOverview

Travelex Insurance Services is a major insurance company in the United States. Their Travel Select plan for Costa Rica is underwritten by Berkshire Hathaway, who we have used ourselves in the past.

The Travel Select plan covers US residents only.

It covers trips up to $50,000 in value.

To give an idea of the cost, we entered our family’s information (2 adults, 2 children under 10 years old) to get a quote. The premium was $330 for an 8-day trip in 2023. Trip value of $10,000.

Coverage

The Travelex Travel Select plan covers:

Trip cancellation before you leave for medical or other specified unforeseen reasons – 100% of trip cost up to $50,000 totalTrip interruption, like if you have to leave suddenly during your trip because of injury, sickness, etc. – up to 150% of trip cost (up to a maximum of $75,000 total)Trip delays of at least 5 hours – up to $2,000 per personMissed connections – up to $750 per personLost, damaged, or stolen bags – up to $1,000 per personMedical expenses, including doctors’ fees, hospital charges, X-rays, and ambulance services – up to $50,000 per personEmergency evacuation expenses – up to $500,000 per person

This is just a summary. Be sure to read the full coverage details before purchasing. These are available when you get a quote.

TrawickOverview

Trawick International is another good option. Their Safe Travels Voyager plan is a little more robust if you’re looking for more coverage. They cover trips up to $100,000 in value. Medical coverage is up to $250,000 per person and medical evacuation is up to $1,000,000 per person.

Their plans are usually more expensive. Using the same parameters for our family that we used when getting a quote for Travelex, the Trawick plan was $593 for an 8-day trip valued at $10,000. Still, a fraction of what our friend had to pay without any insurance.

Coverage

Trawick’s Safe Travels Voyager plan covers:

Trip cancellation for medical or other specified unforeseen reasons – 100% of trip cost up to $100,000 totalTrip interruption, like if you have to leave suddenly during your trip because of injury, sickness, etc. – up to 150% of the trip cost up to $150,000 totalTrip delays of at least 6 hours – up to $3,000 ($250 per day)Missed connections – up to $1,000 per personLost, damaged, or stolen bags – up to $2,500 per personMedical expenses – up to $250,000 per personEmergency medical evacuation – up to $1,000,000 per person

With the Trawick plan, you can add additional medical coverage as well. You also can pay extra to cancel for any reason.

For non-US residents, Trawick has the Safe Travels International and Safe Travels International Cost Saver plans. 

Conclusion

Although travel insurance adds some expense to your trip to Costa Rica, the benefits far outweigh the cost in our opinion. If you had to cancel your trip, you would no doubt be out at least a few thousand dollars. And if you unexpectedly needed medical care, it could be very costly and stressful if you didn’t have any coverage.

Have a question about travel insurance for Costa Rica? Ask us below.Looking for more information to plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Packing for Costa Rica: The Essentials – Learn what to pack for where you will be visiting and some key items you’ll definitely want to have.

Using ATMs and Credit Cards in Costa Rica: Do most businesses in Costa Rica accept credit cards? How easy is it to find ATMs? This post answers these questions and more.

Getting a SIM Card for Travel to Costa Rica: If you’d like to get a local SIM card for your phone, check out this post.

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Using ATMs and Credit Cards in Costa Rica

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

One of the biggest questions people have when traveling to Costa Rica is how they will pay for things once they arrive. In this post, we’ll explain where and when you can use your credit card or debit card. We’ll also go through how to take money out of a local ATM so that you have some cash as well.

Money in Costa Rica

Costa Rica has two currencies officially in circulation, colones and US dollars.

The colon is Costa Rica’s local currency. Colones are what most people living in the country use when buying groceries, everyday items, paying for services, etc.

Some things in Costa Rica are priced in US dollars. For example, it is very common for hotels, tours, and transportation services to be priced in dollars. This is because, historically, Costa Rica has received the most tourists from the United States.

Souvenir shops and restaurant menus may be priced in colones, dollars, or both, depending on how touristy the area is.

The currency rates fluctuate daily. As an example, the exchange rate can be around 560 colones = $1 (USD).

To learn more about the currency, read our post: Currency, Exchanging Money, and Tipping in Costa Rica.

Costa Rica’s local currency, the colonUsing Credit Cards or Debit Cards in Costa Rica

Our best advice when traveling in Costa Rica is to use your credit card or debit card whenever possible.

When you make a purchase in colones with your card, you’ll get the exact bank exchange rate for that day. This prevents errors calculating the exchange rate, and thus, merchants from overcharging you based on an exchange rate that they made up.   

Using a card also allows you to travel with less cash, which is safer and easier.

Where are Cards Accepted?

Credit/debit cards are widely accepted in Costa Rica, even at very small businesses. It is easy to use cards at restaurants, hotels, tour offices, grocery stores, convenience stores, and most shops. Even toll booths on Costa Rica’s highways now accept cards.

Occasionally, card processing machines in very rural areas may not work because they cannot connect to the Internet (3G/4G) signal. In this case, it’s good to have some cash as a backup.

A few locations where credit cards are not as widely accepted are Tortuguero, Drake Bay, and Cabo Matapalo (Osa Peninsula).  

Types of Cards Accepted

Most businesses in Costa Rica will accept Visa or Mastercard. Not many accept Discover or American Express.

Debit cards are typically accepted in the same way as credit cards. One exception is rental cars. Rental car agencies require a credit card so that they can put a temporary hold on your card for the deposit. A debit card will not work.

Most card readers in Costa Rica offer the tap-to-pay option (using the card’s chip), but some still have you insert your card.   

Foreign Transaction Fees

It is important to check with your credit or debit card company before your trip to find out about any fees.

You’ll also want to notify them that you will be traveling abroad to prevent transactions from being flagged as fraud. It’s no fun calling your bank from abroad to clear things up, especially on your vacation. You have better things to do!  

The most common fees from purchases made in Costa Rica are foreign transaction fees.

These vary by card issuer but typically range from 1-5% of the purchase amount. That means if you spend $100, the final purchase price could range from $101 to $105, depending on your bank’s foreign transaction fees.

Tip: Many banks offer travel credit cards that do not have any foreign transaction fees. These cards often have other benefits too, like extra reward points on travel purchases. If you have enough time before your trip, it is worth looking into these options.

Extra Fees from the Merchant

Occasionally, a merchant in Costa Rica will accept credit or debit cards but tell you that there is an extra 3-5% charge for using one. This covers the merchant’s processing fees; the fees the bank charges them on each transaction. This is not that common but can happen, especially with smaller stores and operators.

Using ATMs in Costa Rica

Having some cash on hand is important during your trip. Rather than exchanging currencies before you arrive or at the airport (which usually has a bad rate), we recommend using a local ATM to withdraw cash with your debit card.

Where to Find ATMs

An ATM in Costa Rica is called a Cajero Automatico. These are usually located outside banks, in large malls, and in some shopping plazas or grocery stores. Both SJO and LIR Airports have ATMs as well.

In popular tourist destinations, you’ll find at least a few banks and ATMs. In rural settings there may be only one option that you have to drive to.

What Banks Have ATMs in Costa Rica?

In Costa Rica, you will not find a Bank of America ATM or Citibank ATM sitting on every corner. Instead, ATMs are associated with Costa Rica’s local banks.

The two biggest banks in Costa Rica are Banco Nacional and Banco de Costa Rica.

Other larger banks include Banco Popular, Banco BAC Credomatic San Jose, Banco Davivienda, and Banco Promerica. Scotiabank also has some ATMs around the country. There are many smaller banks too.  

BAC Credomatic is one of Costa Rica’s larger banksATM Machine Language

All ATM machines in Costa Rica default to Spanish. However, there is usually an option for English. If not, you can probably get through the menu knowing a few words and terms.

Tarjeta (card)

Contrasena (password/pin)

Retirar (withdraw)

Saldo (balance). Consulta de saldo (balance inquiry)

Cuenta corriente (checking account)

Cuenta ahorros (savings account)

ATM Currencies

ATMs in Costa Rica normally dispense both colones and US dollars.

In some rural areas they may have machines that only dispense colones, since the locals in those areas don’t use dollars very much.

An ATM at a commercial center near JacoATM Fees in Costa Rica

Like most places, if you are using an ATM out of your normal network, the local bank will charge a fee. In Costa Rica, these fees typically range from 1,500-3,000 colones (about $3-6). You also may get charged from your bank.

Like with credit cards, you can be charged others fees from your bank at home as well. Many banks have a currency conversion fee for taking out foreign currency. Check with your card issuer.

If you plan to spend a lot of time in Costa Rica, it could be worth getting a debit card that doesn’t charge fees. For example, we have a Capital One debit card that doesn’t charge any fees for using an out-of-network ATM, including outside the United States. It also doesn’t charge for taking out colones.

Tip: Bank of Costa Rica (BCR) ATMs do not charge a fee on their end. By using a BCR ATM, you can reduce your overall fees or have no fees at all depending on your card issuer. One caveat is that BCR ATMs only allow you two transactions of 50,000 colones per day (100,000 colones or around $200 (USD) total per day). Other banks allow higher withdrawal amounts but do charge ATM fees.

ATM Safety

Just like anywhere in the world, you have to be cautious and smart about withdrawing money. Always make sure you are in a safe area and try not to visit the ATM at late hours. Never ask a local to help you through the menu, since they can collect personal information like your pin. Use common sense and be aware of your surroundings.  

Conclusion

Using your credit card or debit card for purchases in Costa Rica can make your travels easier and stress free. Taking out money from ATMs as you go is also a good option. Both ensure that you don’t have to carry large sums of money around with you. This way, you can focus on having a fun and relaxing vacation!

Have a question about credit cards or ATMs in Costa Rica? Leave us a comment below. Looking for more practical information for your trip? Check out these posts:

Packing for Costa Rica: The Essentials – This packing list covers what you’ll need in some of Costa Rica’s different climates. Check it out to see if you’ve forgotten anything.

Money Matters: Currency, Exchanging Money, and Tipping in Costa Rica – More on everything money, including tipping and taxes.  

Simple Spanish for Visiting Costa Rica – This short guide will give you some key words and phrases to help you get around.   

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Tortuga Island Catamaran: Beach & Snorkel Tour from Jaco

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

If you are visiting the Pacific coast near Jaco, one activity you’ll want to add to your list is a catamaran tour to the famous Tortuga Island. This fun boat trip takes you across a wide bay to a secluded island. From the white-sand beach, you can snorkel, swim, hike, or just lay under an umbrella sipping tropical drinks. In this post, we’ll share our experience visiting Tortuga Island aboard the Costa Cat.

About Tortuga Island

Tortuga Island (or Isla Tortuga) is located in the Gulf of Nicoya, which separates Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula and central Pacific coast.

Set off on its own, the 300-acre (120-hectare) island is mostly undeveloped. Among the tall palm trees is one large area with a small gift shop, some bathrooms, and a row of temporary structures put up by tour companies.

Tortuga Island can be visited from several destinations using many different tour operators. Boats of all sizes arrive from the port of Puntarenas, beach towns on the southern Nicoya Peninsula, and the Jaco and Herradura area.

The tour we took with the Costa Cat started at Los Suenos Marina in Playa Herradura, 10 minutes from Jaco.   

Costa Cat Catamaran

The Costa Cat catamaran is the most popular choice for Tortuga Island tours from the Jaco area. While a little expensive at first glance (see details below), it really is worth it for such a nice, day-long experience.

About the Boat

The Costa Cat is a 55-foot (17-meter) twin-hull catamaran, making it very stable on the water. It has an indoor area with seating for about 40 guests. Other than the rows of seating, there’s not much room to move around inside, but the space is comfortable, with big glass windows and air conditioning. The staff had music playing too, which was fun.

The outside rear and side decks are small but can still hold about 25 people. The top, open deck where the captain sits, also has room for about five guests. In total, the Costa Cat holds up to 70 passengers and crew.

The Costa Cat

Because the Tortuga Island cruise is so popular, the company also has the Costa Cat II. This is a smaller, 39-foot (12-meter) twin-hull catamaran with open sides and one bathroom. It can hold up to 49 passengers and staff. When the bigger boat is full, they will use this one too. Costa Cat II can be used for private tours.   

Setting Off and Crossing the Bay

Our tour started at 7:15 a.m. when we checked in at the Costa Cat dock at Los Suenos Marina. This marina is one of the biggest in Costa Rica with more than 100 sportfishing boats and yachts.

The Costa Cat docked at Los Suenos Marina

After a warm greeting from the staff, we boarded the catamaran and found some seats inside by the window. The crew immediately began catering to us, giving us fruit, muffins, coffee, and juice for the kids.

Soon we were motoring out of the marina into open water. The boat picked up speed and we were on our way.

Crossing the Gulf of Nicoya took about 45 minutes. Along the way, we explored the boat with the kids and watched out the windows. We saw a couple of sting rays jump right out of the water and splash back down. We also spotted several sea turtles bobbing along in the currents.

On our way to Tortuga IslandLanding on the Island

As we approached Tortuga Island, the boat slowed as the crew readied us for a beach landing. Once beached, the Costa Cat has a large ramp that extends all the way to the shore. This made getting off the boat very easy.

Walking along the white sand, we saw several tour companies setting up rows and rows of beach chairs and umbrellas. Each company had a different section of beach and different colored chairs and canopies.

Having left the marina early, we were one of the first boats to arrive. Trudging through the soft sand, we found our spot on the far side of the cove.   

The calm cove before many boats arrivedTortuga Island Activities

What we liked so much about Tortuga Island is that there is something for everyone. If you’d like to just relax, eat, and drink cocktails, no problem. But if you want to be active, there are options for that as well.

Beach Lounging

With fluffy white sand, Tortuga Island is an excellent place to just let go and relax. Once you find a place to sit along the rows of beach chairs, the staff will quickly visit you and ask what you need.

The Costa Cat section of the beach

Our tour included unlimited rum punch and margaritas as well as any soft drinks or coffee we’d like. Other bar items were available for an extra charge. Some vendors were selling fresh coconut water and granizados (a local shaved ice treat) as well.

Our kids were thrilled when a big bucket of sand toys was brought over for them to play with.    

Snorkeling at Tortuga IslandTaking the Boat to the Snorkel Spot

A highlight of Tortuga Island is the snorkeling, since it hosts some of the best conditions in Costa Rica. Often you can snorkel right off the beach since the water is normally very clear. However, for a better experience, there is another small rocky island nearby with coral reef around it.

To get to the snorkel location, you take a short (two minute) boat ride on a panga. You can’t get on the island since it’s small and rocky, so Costa Cat has a large, covered platform moored with swim ladders. This is where you will get geared up with swim fins and snorkel masks. The platform/float is nice in case anyone changes their mind and decides they don’t want to snorkel. They can just hang out here.

The snorkel platformWhat We Saw

As soon as we jumped into the water, we could see big schools of fish swimming around. If you are up for some adventure, you can flipper all the way around the little island in about 15 minutes. Jenn did this on her own while I floated near the platform with the kids.  

In the water, we saw a pufferfish, parrot fish, angel fish, sea urchins, and a starfish, as well as tons of sergeant majors and other small schooling fish.

Something important to keep in mind is the volume of people swimming here. You’ll definitely be around a lot of other people from your group and others. For this reason, the tour companies usually stagger the times they go snorkeling.

Tip: Plan your visit to Tortuga Island during the week if you can. Weekends are usually much busier.

Sunscreen

You will definitely want to use a good amount of sunscreen on this tour and especially for the snorkeling. You’re in the sun for much of the day, and the sun is very strong in Costa Rica. With the high traffic of snorkelers, we recommend using a reef-safe sunscreen to help protect the marine life. This natural sunscreen that we use is zinc-based but goes on smooth and lasts in the water for a long time.

A group of snorkelers making their way around the islandLunch

After some beach time and about 45 minutes of snorkeling, it was time for lunch. While we were having fun, the crew had prepared us a big barbeque of rosemary grilled chicken, sautéed potatoes, yellow rice, and salad.

Everything was served buffet style and our whole boat ate at the picnic tables under the shady tents.

During lunch, the staff was buzzing around making sure nobody went hungry or thirsty. The crew were all so friendly and attentive; they definitely elevated the whole experience. 

Our lunch plateBanana Boat Rides

Now fueled up, we were told that banana boat rides would be starting soon. Our oldest was definitely up for this and went along with Matt. Jenn and Evan stayed back to play in the water.   

For those who have never done it, a banana boat is a long skinny inflatable raft (usually yellow, hence the name) that gets towed behind a speedboat. It’s like tubing but with three to five people sitting in a row.

We had two choices, a leisurely ride or an exciting ride. Of course, we had to go for the exciting version. Geared up with helmets and lifejackets, Sam and Matt along with another family, zigzagged and bounced behind the small boat getting dumped off a couple of times.

Riding the banana boat!Hiking at Tortuga Island

Another included activity you can do on Tortuga Island is hiking. We were especially interested in this because we couldn’t find much information about it online.

The hike was nice, short, and worth the effort. Before you go, make sure to grab a brochure/trail map from the Costa Cat crew members. They also will guide you to the trail entrance.

The brochure has a lot of information about the history of the island and what plant and animal species you may see, as well as a simple guide marking specific species of native plants.

The hiking trail on Tortuga IslandTrail Conditions

The trail on Tortuga Island is dirt with some rocks and manmade steps. There are also tree roots, but overall, it is not in terrible condition. We hiked with sneakers, but others were getting by with flip-flops.

From behind the bathrooms, the trail climbs to about 500 feet (150 meters) where you will find a couple of nice viewpoints. One overlooks a gorgeous waterway between Tortuga Island and the neighboring Alcatraz Island. The second viewpoint looks out to the main beach of Tortuga Island (see cover photo).

Looking across at Alcatraz Island

The crew told us that the hike would take about 30-40 minutes, but only took us about 20 minutes.

There was one split around the middle of the trail with a sign. It pointed to an alternative route that was more difficult and would add 35 minutes to the hike. We didn’t go that way because we were short on time, with the boat leaving soon. Hopefully next time we can check it out.

Wildlife

During our hike, the forest was very dry and barren since it was mid-March (the middle of dry season). We heard some birds but didn’t see them close enough to identify them. We did, however, see a couple of mammals.

First, it was a collared peccary. This is sort of wild-boar-type animal. They often travel in big family groups foraging along the forest floor.

We were also lucky to spot a white-tailed deer and her fawn. They were hiding right behind where the bathrooms and grill were set up. They stood there quietly watching all the visitors along the beach.  

This white-tail deer blended in pretty wellOther Activities

Besides the snorkel, banana boat, and hiking activities, there are also paddleboard and kayak rentals available.

Kayaks are around $10 per hour and stand up paddleboards are $20 per hour. There is also a beach volleyball court that is free to use.

Conclusion

Our experience going to Tortuga Island aboard the Costa Cat was memorable. We booked this tour for Jenn’s birthday and had so much fun. We’ve already talked as a family about visiting again. From the boat ride there, to the activities on the island and friendly crew, we will most certainly be back soon.   

Booking a Tour

We can book this tour for you at no additional cost. Booking through us costs the same and helps support our website.

If you are interested in booking a tour aboard the Costa Cat, email us at bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com with your preferred date, number of people (with ages of any children), and your pickup location if transportation is needed. We’ll email you back and make the process smooth and stress free.

Tour Times

Tours are offered daily. Check in is at 7:15 a.m. and the boat departs at 7:45 a.m.

Pick up times at local hotels begin earlier.

Duration

You will return to Los Suenos Marina around 3:45 p.m.

Costs

Adults: $140 + tax per person

Children (ages 4-13): $115 + tax per person

Children 3 and under are free.

*Private tours are also available. Prices depend on the number of passengers but range from $2,500 to $7,000 + tax for the entire boat.  

What’s Included in the Tour

Round-trip transportation from Jaco, Herradura, and Los Suenos

Light breakfast aboard (coffee, juice, water, muffin, and fruit)

Rum punch and margaritas, soft drinks, and water. *Beer is $3 and other drinks are $4-10.

Lunch on the island (rosemary grilled chicken, sautéed potatoes, yellow rice, and 2 kinds of salad)

3 activities on the beach (snorkel tour, banana boat tour, and self-guided hike)

Use of chairs, umbrellas, and beach toys for kids.

Have a question about visiting Tortuga Island from Jaco? Leave us a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Tarcoles River Crocodile Bridge: A Stop to See Crocs – This bridge on the highway north of Jaco has giant crocodiles sunbathing below. It’s worth a quick stop and a few pics.

A Rainforest Tram Ride in Jaco – Just inland from Jaco Beach you can take a relaxing tram ride up the green mountains. This activity is good for everyone, including those with limited mobility.

Birding in Carara National Park – Located in a transition zone between the tropical wet and tropical dry forests, Carara National Park attracts birds from both zones. This special national park is only 30 minutes from downtown Jaco.

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Monte de la Cruz: A Relaxing Locals’ Park in Heredia

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

When Costa Rica city dwellers want a relaxing time away, they often drive into the nearby hills to find a slice of nature. In this post, we’ll share one popular place called Monte de la Cruz. This municipal park in San Rafael de Heredia has large open spaces, playgrounds, gardens, forested trails, picnic areas, and a scenic viewpoint overlooking San Jose. It’s a fun locals’ spot where you can immerse yourself in the culture for a day.

Location & Climate

Monte de la Cruz is located in San Rafael de Heredia, about 30 minutes north of Costa Rica’s capital city, San Jose. The area where the park sits is about 300 meters (985 feet) higher in elevation than the valley below.

Because of the altitude, at nearly 1,500 meters (4,900 ft), the climate can be much cooler. Plants and flowers around the property are different than you’d find at lower elevations, and moss and bromeliads cling to taller trees, much like the cloud forest.   

The gardens around the main area have beautiful flowersHistory

Monte de la Cruz has an interesting history. It once hosted a Christian chapel that was built in the 1930s. This was one of four similar religious monuments built around the Central Valley at the time. The building was used for services and prayer for many years, but was vandalized in the 1960s and 70s.

Taken over by Costa Rica’s Institute of Tourism in 1971, the property, then known as Finca del Conde, was passed over to the municipality of San Rafael de Heredia in 1977.

Although the chapel had to be taken down because of its condition, a large concrete cross, still seen today, was built in its place.

Today the town charges admission and other fees, which it uses to maintain the historic property and its recreational spaces.

A cross that was built to remember the old churchAttractions at Monte de la Cruz

Monte de la Cruz attracts lots of families, couples, and groups of friends. We visited during Semana Santa (Easter Week/Holy Week), and it was quite busy with people having picnics or going on a hike. Here are some features you’ll find on a visit.

Ranchos (Picnic Areas)

If you’re planning to spend the day at Monte de la Cruz, we’d highly recommend reserving one of the covered picnic areas (ranchos). The weather can change quickly on the mountainside and the ranchos are a perfect spot to duck into if it starts to get wet. Although they are open to the elements, they do have a roof to keep you dry.

Each rancho has a large picnic table, countertop, charcoal grill (bring your own supplies), sink, and electrical outlet. We just packed sandwiches, but other families had crockpots, food to grill, and big coolers.

One of the basic ranchos on the property that you can rent

There are 13 ranchos available, mostly located in the main area of the property. Monte de la Cruz also has two larger buildings for rent, for parties, functions, or other events.  

Playgrounds

Right next to the ranchos are two large playgrounds with slides, swings, seesaws, and plenty of things for kids to climb on. There are also some basketball courts and a soccer field (bring your own balls).

The play areas at Monte de la Cruz

For the furry members of the family, a small dog park with some obstacles and play elements can be found near the parking area. Dogs are allowed on the entire property as long as you clean up after them.  

Trails

If you are up for some exercise, there are a few trails through the forest at Monte de la Cruz worth checking out.

Trail MapMain Trail – Sendero Los Cipreses

We first took the main trail (Sendero Los Cipreses) from the snack bar, over the small bridge, and into the forest. This path goes past the soccer field, through the woods, and climbs up the hill to the viewpoint where the giant cross is located.

While this trail is paved and wide, it can be steep at times and would probably not be suitable for those in a wheelchair.

The scenery along the trail was really nice, with towering cypress and pine trees. We live at the beach so it was a completely different landscape for us.

Sendero Los Cipreses leading to the viewpointForest Trail – Sendero Cerro Redondo

From the viewpoint, there is a trail (Sendero Cerro Redondo) that goes through the forest and loops back around to the ranchos.

We started to the left of the cross. This headed back in the same direction we had come from but on a dirt trail, down a very steep hill. At the time of our visit, the hill had a lot of slippery pine needles but was manageable.

At the bottom, the trail flattened out and continued through dense forest along the edge of the property. Along the way there were a few more ranchos.

Lots of pine and cypress trees and some small crosses along Sendero Cerro Redondo

From the viewpoint and cross, if you go to the right, the trail goes in the opposite direction into the forest but quickly splits into many different trails. This was a little confusing, so we didn’t go too far.

Overall, the forest trail was nice but not that well marked. It was a bit hard to understand where we were supposed to be going.

Viewpoint & Cross

The viewpoint at Monte de la Cruz allows you to see all the way to downtown San Jose and La Sabana Park, where the national soccer stadium is located. On a clear day, you’ll also be able to see the steep mountains on the south side of the city.

The viewpoint overlooking the city of San Jose

Around the viewpoint is a grassy area where people like to sit. There is also the giant cross, which is a popular spot to take pictures. At the foot of the cross is the original mosaic tile floor that was part of the old chapel.

Waterfall

During wetter months, there is a small waterfall that is part of the Monte de la Cruz property. We tried to find it, but the trail (Sendero La Catarata) was not well marked. We even asked some locals, who pointed us in one direction, but still did not come across it.

If you have any advice for readers on accessing it, please leave details in the comments below.

Planning Your Visit to Monte de la CruzAccessibility

Much of the property at Monte de la Cruz is suitable for people with limited mobility and/or wheelchairs. Around the ranchos and playground there are wide, concrete paths.

The main trail (Sendero Los Cipreses) leading to the viewpoint is very steep; however, an access road allows you to get to the viewpoint by car.

Bathrooms are accessible by ramps but be careful as the tile can be very slippery and wet.

The paved trail (Sendero Los Cipreses) that leads to the viewpointCost Entrance Fees

Adults: ₡2,500 foreigners, ₡1,200 legal residents

Children (ages 5-12): ₡750

Seniors: ₡800

Parking

Cars: ₡2,500

Motorcycles: ₡1,000

Ranchos (Covered Picnic Areas)

Individual Rancho: ₡3,500

Large Rancho #1: ₡30,000

Large Rancho #2: ₡50,000

The big, enclosed building for eventsHours

Open every day (including holidays) from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Snack Bar

A simple snack bar offers empanadas, French fries, hamburgers, ice cream, smoothies, other drinks and coffee. Everything was priced under ₡1,500 colones.

What to Wear/Bring

Because of its position on the mountain, the weather at Monte de la Cruz can change quickly. It can be sunny and hot at times and windy, rainy, and cold at others. We would recommend dressing in layers and bringing a rain jacket. For the trails, sturdy sneakers or hiking boots are recommended.

Conclusion

Monte de la Cruz is a fun locals’ spot where you can escape the hustle and bustle of the nearby city. From the playground and trails to the viewpoint and picnic areas, it’s a nice place to hang out and spend the day.

Have a question about visiting Monte de la Cruz or want to share about your visit? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan? Check out these posts:

1-2 Days in San Jose – If you’d like to check out downtown San Jose for a couple of days, this guide covers the main attractions, some good restaurant choices, and more.

Costa Rica’s Central Valley: Regional Snapshot – Practical information on Costa Rica’s most populated area. From weather and landscape to activities and ways to get around.

A Taste of Costa Rica: 7 Traditional Foods to Try – Eat like a local and try these traditional dishes.

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Cabo Matapalo: Wild Jungle on the Osa Peninsula

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Tucked into the southern-most corner of Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula is an area known as Cabo Matapalo. There isn’t much here, and that’s what makes it special. Remote beaches, bumpy roads, and thick jungle that connects to the famous Corcovado National Park. This is a wild part of Costa Rica that stands out as a true ecotourism destination. In this post, we’ll tell you more about Cabo Matapalo and what it is like to visit.

Location & Surrounds

Cabo Matapalo is located remotely on the southern tip of the Osa Peninsula, on the very southern Pacific coast.

This 700-square mile (1,813 sq. km) peninsula is known for its impressive biodiversity. According to the Osa Conservation Organization, it holds 2-3 percent of all the world’s species, has more than 700 types of trees, 10,000 kinds of insects, and 4,000 varieties of vascular plants!

The closest major town to Cabo Matapalo is Puerto Jimenez, about 30-40 minutes away. In Puerto Jimenez, you’ll find banks, grocery stores, tour operators, and a small airstrip.    

Town Setup

Cabo Matapalo doesn’t have anything resembling a town center. Rather, things are spaced out along the main dirt road (Route 245). You’ll find some private homes among a handful of vacation rentals, eco-lodges, and surf camps.

Many of the homes and lodges are off-grid and use solar. Internet and cellphone service can be spotty in this area, making it a good place to get away from it all.

The back road to the beach/Cabo MatapaloGetting ThereDriving

It is a far drive to Cabo Matapalo if landing in San Jose. To break up the 6.5-7 hour journey, we recommend splitting it up and spending a couple nights at a central Pacific coast destination along the way.

Some good choices are Manuel Antonio, or farther south, Dominical or Uvita. If you are looking for a reliable rental car company, check out our Rental Car Discount page.

Domestic Flights

We are reluctant to recommend flying domestically after some tragic crashes in the past, but many people do take small-plane flights from San Jose to Puerto Jimenez. The flight is only about 50 minutes. From there, the drive to Cabo Matapalo is just 30-40 minutes more.

Shuttles

If you are staying at an all-inclusive lodge, you probably don’t need a rental car in Cabo Matapalo. Private shuttles are available between this area and San Jose (or other destinations) but can be costly because of the distance. If you need help arranging one, you can reach out through our Costa Rica Shuttle Transfers page.   

Cabo Matapalo ActivitiesWildlife ViewingOverview

The big draw of Cabo Matapalo is how wild and remote it is. Even just driving the roads, we saw troops of monkeys crossing the trees overhead. You can see all four species of monkey that live in Costa Rica. These include spider, howler, white-faced, and squirrel monkeys.  

A spider monkey in the trees near the main road

Birds are also a highlight. On the Osa Peninsula, over 650 bird species have been identified. Several are endemic to Costa Rica (only found here) or this specific region. Some of the endemic birds include the Yellow-billed Cotinga, Mangrove Hummingbird, and Black-cheeked Ant Tanager. It is also very common to see Scarlet Macaw parrots, toucans, and several species of trogon.  

A beautiful Black-throated Trogon

For organized wildlife viewing opportunities, guides can be arranged through your eco-lodge or tour operators in Puerto Jimenez.

Corcovado National Park

A popular activity is visiting Corcovado National Park. For serious hikers, guided multi-day treks are available. For these, you will sleep overnight at some of the park’s basic ranger stations.

Single day trips into Corcovado are also possible. You can take a boat to Sirena Ranger Station, known for its prime wildlife viewing, or walk the beach from Carate to La Leona Ranger Station.

Guides are required by law to enter Corcovado National Park. For more information, read our posts, Corcovado National Park and Spotting Costa Rica’s Most Spectacular Wildlife at Sirena Ranger Station. 

Area Beaches and Surfing

The Cabo Matapalo area has several remote beaches worth exploring. These include Playa Matapalo, Backwash, Playa Pan Dulce, and Playa Sombrero. Some are also popular with surfers when conditions are right.

We spent hours watching the surfers at Playa Pan Dulce. They were catching the long break that forms off the cove’s southern point. The gentle wave was gracefully pushing them all the way across the horizon to the middle part of the beach. It is said that when conditions are perfect, this break can take you almost 1,000 feet (300 meters).

A surfer catching a wave at Playa Pan Dulce

Even if you are not into surfing, the beaches of Cabo Matapalo are ideal for exploring and walking. There are big rocky outcroppings, driftwood logs, palm trees, and wildlife like iguanas, monkeys, parrots, and plenty of hermit crabs. Swim with caution as most beaches have rip currents.

Backwash BeachKing Louis Waterfall

For a short hike to a waterfall, we recommend the King Louis Waterfall.

Also known as the Matapalo Waterfall, this tall cascade is located at the end of the road, just inland from Playa Matapalo. The trail takes only about 15 minutes but is challenging and not for the faint of heart. There are steep drop offs and some slick rocks to climb over.

The final reward is worth the effort, though, as beautiful misty water drops through thick jungle surrounds. For more information about access and best times of year to visit, read our post, King Louis Waterfall in Cabo Matapalo.  

The stunning King Louis WaterfallRestaurants

Cabo Matapalo doesn’t have much of a restaurant scene since it’s so small. Most of the area’s lodges include meals.

Mar Luna Lodge & Grill

This small restaurant and bar sits next to a few villas and a pool. Mar Luna offers tasty pizzas, artisanal burgers, and pasta dishes. The friendly owners and wait staff will make you feel right at home. The open-air seating is comfortable and there is a ping-pong table for some fun entertainment. Cash only.

Martina’s Restaurant

Martina’s serves as a bar, restaurant, and locals’ hangout. There’s even an artisan market on Friday night that continues into the evening with music and sometimes dancing.

Martina’s has a chalkboard menu with seafood, pork, chicken, and pasta dishes along with salads, smoothies, and desserts. Local plates like casados are available for lunch. Prices are higher but expected for such a remote spot. Cash only.

Cabo Matapalo Accommodations

Cabo Matapalo has only a handful of places to stay. You’ll find simple surf dorms and a couple of high-end eco-lodges. We stayed in a vacation rental and regretted the decision. Being so remote, we felt that it would have been nice to have the staff at a lodge to lean on to organize activities and have someone we could turn to with any issue or questions. With that in mind, here are couple of lodges that offer that peace of mind.   

Lapa Rios Lodge

At the top end of the spectrum is Lapa Rios. This certified sustainable, all-inclusive eco-lodge is perched on the hillside with beautiful ocean views. Lapa Rios has 17 nicely appointed bungalows set in the jungle, a spa and wellness center, and an expansive 1,000-acre property of protected land. Packages include three multi-course meals a day and a large selection of activities. Check Rates and Availability Here.  

Lapa Rios LodgeBlue Osa Yoga Retreat & Spa

For those looking to reconnect with themselves in a natural setting, there is Blue Osa. This eco-conscious yoga retreat and spa keeps everything natural and peaceful. From open-air yoga studios, to gardens, labyrinths, and even the beach just steps away, you are sure to find a place to set your mind and body at ease. The farm-to-table meals and optional tours make the experience at Blue Osa whole. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Conclusion

Cabo Matapalo is unique in that you are far from it all, but with so much life all around you. From the crashing surf to the vibrant jungle and wildlife, there is never a dull moment in this little corner of the Osa.

Have a question about visiting Cabo Matapalo or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below.

Note: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you book a hotel using one of the links, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

Looking for more information to plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Drake Bay: Costa Rica Unplugged – Just on the other side of the Osa Peninsula, this destination is a little closer to others and has more accommodation options but with a similar wild feel.  

Corcovado National Park – General information on Costa Rica’s gem on the Osa. This park is every nature enthusiast’s dream.

Puerto Jimenez: An Outpost to the Osa – At around 30-40 minutes from Cabo Matapalo, Puerto Jimenez is the closest major town. There’s a real local feel to this fishing and farming town.

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King Louis Waterfall in Cabo Matapalo

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

If you’re visiting the Puerto Jimenez area on Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula, you’ll want to check out the King Louis Waterfall. This gorgeous, little-known cascade is near the end of a rugged dirt road. Also known as the Matapalo Waterfall, this waterfall is reasonably easy to get to if you’re up for some adventure. It is important to know, though, that access has changed recently. In this post, we’ll tell you more about the King Louis Waterfall and give some essential information on how to get there.

Orientation

The King Louis Waterfall is near the very southern tip of the Osa Peninsula on Costa Rica’s southern Pacific coast. This is one of most remote regions of Costa Rica. Much of the Osa Peninsula remains wild and jungle covered. Corcovado National Park encompasses much of the land.

The closest major town to the waterfall is Puerto Jimenez, about 40 minutes north.

After you pass through Puerto Jimenez, you’ll follow the dirt road south along the coast. Spread out on this stretch are a few houses, ecolodges, and farm fields. But most of the land remains pristine rainforest.

The scenic drive south from Puerto Jimenez to Cabo Matapalo

Continuing down a very rocky, bumpy side road (4×4 vehicle required), you’ll come to Cabo Matapalo. This is a well-known surfing area that is popular with locals. Shortly before the road ends at Playa Matapalo, you’ll find access to the waterfall trail. See full directions below.

Background on King Louis Waterfall

King Louis Waterfall is seasonal, meaning that it dries up during certain times of year due to lack of rainfall.

Rainy season ends on the Osa Peninsula in mid-December. Dry season, when there is little-to-no rain, starts after that. It depends on the year, but King Louis Waterfall usually still has water into February and then is dry from mid-February/March until around April when the rain starts up again.

If you’re coming in February, March, or early April, it is best to ask a local before going to make sure it’ll be worth the trek.

We visited in January 2023 and the waterfall was flowing strong.

Accessing King Louis WaterfallTrail OptionsOld Trail through River

From the parking, directly in front of you will be thick rainforest. Here, you’ll find a small trail with a sign that says “Catarata/Waterfall.” If you take this, it will lead you to the river that goes to the waterfall.

Previously, most people accessed the waterfall by taking this trail and then walking through the riverbed, along the rocks. That is not the case anymore.

We talked to a local, and he explained that a big storm in 2022 changed the river so that it’s much harder/dangerous to go that way.

Now, you can take a new dirt trail above the river.

New Trail to King Louis Waterfall

To get to the new trail, from the parking, go left and keep walking past the other trail entrance. Part of this road/driveway has concrete. You’ll soon reach the new trailhead on your right (unmarked as of January 2023).

The unmarked trailhead

This trail is short, but extremely narrow in places. We did the hike with our two young boys (ages 7 and 3) and were nervous that one of them would fall down the steep hill. If you take a wrong step, you could easily tumble down the ravine into the river. We don’t recommend the hike with young kids. You should be in good physical condition.

Narrow trail with steep drop off to the right

When you’re close to the waterfall, you’ll need to cross the river. To make it a little easier, there’s a rope you can hold at the bottom. You’ll then quickly wade through the water and climb on some rocks and boulders on the other side. It’s not too difficult but was challenging for our youngest son.

You hold a rope (look closely at picture) to get down this last steep spot before the river

During rainy season (May through end of November), the river levels may be high if there has been a lot of rain so use caution. It’s best to avoid the hike in bad weather, as the trail may get slippery.

The walk to the waterfall takes about 15 minutes.

The Waterfall

Once you arrive, you’ll get to take in the grandeur of the King Louis Waterfall.

This gorgeous cascade drops steeply from a rainforest-covered hill. The water flows along the rock face, with moss and lush greenery all around.

The beautiful waterfall

To the right of the waterfall pool is a nice area with some large rocks for sitting.

You also can cool off in the refreshing water. The pool wasn’t very deep, but you can sit under the waterfall as long as it’s not strong. When we visited, there were a couple of locals enjoying a natural shower.

The shallow pool

Since this area abuts the pristine Corcovado National Park, you can see some wildlife too. We saw a big troop of howler monkeys passing through the trees along the hillside.

A howler monkey near the waterfall

The scenery at the waterfall is so peaceful and serene. When we were there in the height of high season in Costa Rica, we only saw two other groups the whole time. It’s a great off-the-beaten path spot.

Directions to King Louis Waterfall

You need a four-wheel drive vehicle with good clearance to access the waterfall at all times of year.

Follow the main road south of Puerto Jimenez along the coast. When you get to Playa Pan Dulce, take a left onto the side road. If you get to Lapa Rios Lodge, you’ve passed the road and need to turn around.

Follow this “road” all the way to Playa Matapalo/Cabo Matapalo.

Keep in mind that the road is more like a trail and not for the faint of heart.

Once you get off the main road, the road is narrow in places and has lots of huge rocks to navigate. You’ll have to go slowly and find the best way over the rocks in some places to avoid bottoming out.

There are also some streams to cross. In January, these streams were small, but they would be much bigger in rainy season (May through end of November). If you aren’t sure if your vehicle can make it across, you can carefully walk through beforehand to check how deep it is. Or watch a local cross first in their car so you know the best route to take.

The rough road to the waterfall

Right before you reach Playa Matapalo, take a right instead of going towards the beach where there are a couple of cabins/small hotel. This is the parking area for the waterfall.

When we visited, there were no signs about the waterfall on the way or for the parking. Here’s a picture to give you an idea. There’s really only one parking spot but you could make it work if there is already a car there.

People park on the right side here

Parking is very informal. There’s no guard like at other waterfalls in Costa Rica so be sure not to leave anything inside your car.

Here’s a map with the approximate location for the parking.

This area is very remote, but there are usually surfers coming and going in case you get lost. Locals often call the waterfall Catarata Matapalo.

What to Bring

Since the trail is very narrow, wear hiking boots or good-gripping sneakers. Also bring some repellent in case of mosquitoes.

There are no amenities in the area so be sure to bring everything you’ll need for food and drinks. The Osa Peninsula can get extremely hot so make sure to have plenty of water.

After the hike, we recommend checking out Playa Matapalo or Playa Pan Dulce. These are gorgeous, secluded beaches with a very wild feel.

The secluded Playa Pan DulceConclusion

If you’re looking for a fun day trip on your visit to Puerto Jimenez, the King Louis Waterfall is a great option. Visiting is definitely an adventure. From the rough roads and river crossings to the sketchy trail, you’re sure to have some good stories to tell!

Have a question about visiting the King Louis Waterfall or have you been? Leave a comment below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

Puerto Jimenez: An Outpost to the Osa – Our destination guide to the small town of Puerto Jimenez. Learn about more things to do and what it’s like.

Manuel Antonio Trip Planning: Manuel Antonio can be a great stopover on your way to Puerto Jimenez and the perfect place to get in adventure tours that aren’t available in the Osa.

Daypack Essentials for Your Trip to Costa Rica: When doing remote hikes like this one, it’s best to have a medical kit and some other key items. Check out our post for more information.

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