Matthew Houde's Blog, page 10

April 20, 2023

Brisa Elegante: An Upscale Sailing Tour in Manuel Antonio

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Manuel Antonio has been made famous for its national park and easy wildlife viewing. But one activity that shouldn’t be missed is a boat tour along the coast. From the glimmering Pacific Ocean, you’ll see the jungle-filled coastline, rocky offshore islands, and possibly some impressive sea life. While there are many boat tours to choose from in Manuel Antonio, we recently had a wonderful experience on the 100-foot wooden pirate-like sailboat, Brisa Elegante. In this post, we’ll share all the details and tell you how to book.

Brisas Elegante Sailing Tour

Manuel Antonio Boat Tour Options

In Manuel Antonio/Quepos, you’ll find many options for boat tours. There are half a dozen catamarans, many smaller sportfishing boats, and a couple of sailboats.

Tours are usually set up the same. They leave from Marina Pez Vela in Quepos, travel south along the coast, turn around at Manuel Antonio National Park, and then anchor in a cove for some snorkeling. Lunch or dinner is served on the boats along with drinks and snacks.

What makes each different is the atmosphere and experience. Some tours are known to have a booze-cruise party atmosphere, while others are better suited for families and couples.

We have tried three different boats now and enjoyed them all for different reasons.   

Brisa Elegante – Background

Brisa Elegante is a newer boat for Manuel Antonio that offers more of a laidback, high-end experience.

This 100-foot wooden sailboat is full of shiny mahogany wood and brass and chrome metal. It has two lofty masts. Downstairs there are nicely decorated cabins, a spacious kitchen, and dining area.

With a wide wooden hull and sturdy deck, the boat looks almost like a pirate ship. There is even a plank to walk and a skull-and-crossbones flag. Like a pirate ship, the boat has an interesting history.

Pirate Ship Sailboat Manuel AntonioThe Brisa Elegante boat is reminiscent of a pirate ship

Brisa Elegante was built in Turkey in 2010. It sailed through the Mediterranean Sea for several years.

In 2014, the boat’s hull was reinforced to make the 6,000-mile (10,000 kilometer) voyage across the Atlantic Ocean. It arrived in Florida and then the Bahamas.

In 2021, Brisa Elegante traveled through the Panama Canal to the Pacific Ocean. From there, it sailed north to its new home on Costa Rica’s central Pacific coast.   

Jumping Aboard   

Our tour started at Marina Pez Vela in Quepos (next to Manuel Antonio) where we checked into the office. After everyone had arrived, we walked as a group down to the dock.

The beautiful wooden sailboat and crew were waiting. There were about 25 people on the tour with us when we went in January, about half the boat’s capacity.

Brisas Elegante Boat QueposBoarding the boat

We took a seat on the forward deck on some wooden chairs and benches. Bryan, the first mate, introduced himself and gave us a warm welcome. As the other crew came around for drink orders and readied the boat, Bryan introduced them all.

In total there were four crew members, the chef, and captain. Bryan continued with a little background about the boat, what we were going to be doing that day, and some safety information.

Within a few minutes, the ropes were let loose.   

Setting Off & Setting Sail

After motoring out of the marina and into the open water, the crew worked quickly to get the sails up, music on, and drinks served. The atmosphere was fun but not intense.

Sailing Manuel AntonioSails up

The people on our tour consisted of a few families with older kids, many couples, some older adults, and us with our younger kids (ages 3 and 7). There was a lot of room to spread out around the boat.  

The front of the boat had a large covered table with bench seating all around. The very back of the boat had a similar setup. Overall, there was plenty of shade, especially once the sails were put up.

Sailboat Tour Marina Pez VelaPlenty of seating and space to spread outWhat You’ll See

As we sailed south along the coastline, we could see all the area hotels nestled into the jungle as well as the small coves and longer beaches. Playa Espadilla, the main beach, was busy and dotted with beach umbrellas.  

Manuel Antonio has some scenic offshore islands that we cruised by. As we did, we spotted sea birds perched on the rocks or flying nearby.

Islands Manuel AntonioCraggy islands just offshore

Depending on the time of year, you might also encounter whales.

Two humpback whale migrations occur in the area, and you have a chance to see whales between July and February (peak season is September). These whales can sometimes put on a nice show with tails or fins flapping and the occasional breach out of the water.

Even if you don’t see whales, there is often other marine life around. We have seen sea turtles and flying fish. Sometimes there are even dolphins or false killer whales.

Snorkeling, Swimming & Watersports

After an hour or so of cruising the coastline, the crew took down the sails and tied up to a mooring near Biesanz Beach. This sheltered cove is where all the boat tours go for snorkeling. Luckily, they stagger their time so that it doesn’t get too crowded.

The snorkel conditions in the cove are hit or miss as the water is often a little cloudy. There is one big rock in the center where you can see a lot of small fish, even with lower visibility. Brian was also able to point out a cool starfish and some spiky sea urchins.

Since conditions weren’t the best, most people decided to head back to the boat for some swimming and watersports on the calm water. The crew had a couple of kayaks and paddleboards for us to use. They also put out a big floating foam platform that was nice for lounging.

Kayaking Catamaran Tour Manuel AntonioOur son kayaking around the boatWalking the Plank

The highlight for a lot of people on the boat, especially us, was walking and jumping off the plank. This was a true pirate-ship experience.

At the rear of the sailboat was a long gangplank. The captain kept the angle of the plank elevated so that the jump into the water was higher. Overall, it was probably a 15-foot (4.5-meter) leap.

A handful of people tried it, some needing to work up enough courage to make the jump. Others didn’t hesitate for a second. Everyone on the boat and in the water was clapping and encouraging each other on.

Our son Sam (age 7) waited at the end of the plank for a long time, nervous to jump. This prompted the captain to put on a pirate hat and walk halfway out with a fake musket. Our son and the whole boat laughed as the captain smiled. He then lowered the plank, so that Sam felt more confident and could jump.  

Pirate Ship QueposCaptain giving Sam a hard time as he walks the plankDinner

After swimming and jumping, we were all hungry for dinner. We took seats in different spots around the boat as the crew brought out plates of fresh fish with side salads. They also had some special dishes for those with food restrictions.

During dinner we started to slowly motor back out into the open ocean.

Fresh Fish Meal CatamaranFresh mahi-mahiThe Perfect Ending with Sunset

One of the nice things about an afternoon charter, especially in the dry season (mid-December to mid-April) is the chance for a beautiful sunset. Manuel Antonio and Quepos can have some spectacular ones.

As the boat motored slowly along, the sun sank lower in the sky and soon below the clouds. As the sky turned different shades of orange, pink, red, and purple, the captain turned the boat so we could all snap photos. The crew also put on some fun, softer music as we all watched the sun sink below the water’s edge.

What a relaxing way to end the tour.

Sunset Quepos

Tour Details What’s Included

Round-trip transportation from hotels in Manuel Antonio or Quepos to Marina Pez Vela, fresh fruit, lunch or dinner, 1 alcoholic drink per person, unlimited non-alcoholic drinks, safety equipment, and use of snorkel equipment, kayak, and stand-up paddleboard. Additional drinks like beer and cocktails are available for purchase.

Tour Times

Morning tour – 8:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.

Afternoon Tour for Sunset (Seasonal) – 1:30 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.

Tour Price

Adults: $120 per person plus 13% tax.

Children: $60 per person ages 6-12 plus 13% tax.

Free for children 5 and under.

Brisas Elegante Forward DeckThe group hanging out on the forward deckBooking a Tour

If you’re interested in booking a tour on Brisa Elegante, email us at bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com with your preferred date, time, number of people (with ages of any children), and your pickup location if you would like transportation. We’ll secure the reservation for you at no additional cost. Booking through us costs the same and helps support our website.

Private Sailing Charter Option

Private charters are available starting at around $2,400 for 15 people and going up from there based on the number of guests. The maximum number of passengers is 46.

Brisa Elegante also does multi-day, overnight charters where you can spend anywhere from one night to a week on the boat exploring national parks, secluded islands, and more. These charters travel up and down the coast to other areas like Uvita, Drake Bay, Isla Tortuga, and Isla San Lucas. Contact us for more information.

Have a question about the Brisa Elegante Sailboat Tour in Manuel Antonio? Ask us below. Looking for more activities to do in Manuel Antonio? Check out these posts:

Manuel Antonio Catamaran Cruise – If you’re looking for more of a party boat, this 100-foot catamaran offers that experience.

Manuel Antonio National Park – While this is one of Costa Rica’s busiest parks, it’s also one of the easiest places to see wildlife. Learn more about the trails, animals you can see, and how to get tickets.

Villa Vanilla Spice Farm Tour – This agricultural tour will show you how vanilla, cinnamon, and other spices are grown. You’ll also get to do a delicious tasting!

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Published on April 20, 2023 09:51

April 14, 2023

Sustainable Hotels in Costa Rica

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

If you’re interested in making your trip to Costa Rica more sustainable, you should know about Costa Rica’s sustainable tourism program. The Certification of Sustainable Tourism allows businesses in the tourism industry to apply for a special certification that recognizes their efforts towards conservation, energy efficiency, and promoting the local community. In this post, we’ll give a list of hotels that have achieved the Certification of Sustainable Tourism.

For background on how the program works, check out our post, Choosing Sustainable Travel: Costa Rica’s Sustainable Tourism Program.

Sustainable Hotels Costa Rica

Sustainable Hotels in Costa Rica

The hotels below have the Certification of Sustainable Tourism (CST). The list is organized by destination. We have highlighted some of our favorite properties that we have stayed at or sent clients to.

Note: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you book a hotel using one of the links, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support our website and allows us to contribute part of our revenue towards sustainability programs in Costa Rica.

Arenal/La FortunaHighlights

Arenal Observatory Lodge

The Observatory offers a true ecotourism experience. The ecolodge is located on the foothills of Arenal Volcano, within Arenal Volcano National Park. Not only does the lodge have great volcano views, but due to its location in conservation land, it is fairly easy to see wildlife. The lodge has several trails onsite to explore.

Arenal Observatory has valued the environment from the start. They sustainably maintain 270 acres (109 hectares) of their property as natural forest and 400 acres (162 hectares) in reforestation.

To give an idea of their sustainability practices, they have their own wastewater treatment plant, use native species in their gardens and green areas, and use natural and biodegradable products for outdoor maintenance and cleaning.

Arenal Observatory Lodge Arenal Observatory Lodge, as close as you can get to the volcano

Rancho Margot

Rancho Margot is a unique property near Lake Arenal. The self-sufficient ranch and ecolodge is designed to promote biodiversity and sequester carbon emissions. They generate more than half of the food they need for guests and staff right on the property.

Their guest bungalows emphasize indoor-outdoor living, and are made from beautiful local wood, most of which came directly from the property.

Among their sustainability efforts, Rancho Margot uses biodegradable products, advanced practices for electricity and water conservation, and protects nature reserves. Notably, they were Costa Rica’s first carbon-negative company in 2012, verified by Carbon Clear.

Rancho Margot Aerial view of Rancho Margot, a hotel and ranch near Lake Arenal and the volcano. Photo Credit: Rancho MargotOther Certified Hotels

Arenal Volcano Inn

Cabinas Las Tinajas

Finca Luna Nueva

Hotel Arenal Manoa

Hotel Arenal Springs Resort and Spa

Tabacon Thermal Resort and Spa

Bajos del Toro

El Silencio Lodge and Spa

El Silencio Lodge is located in the mountains on the backside of Poas Volcano near the quiet town of Bajos del Toro. The lodge’s primary focus is sustainable luxury. Their model is to protect their pristine natural surroundings, foster the personal growth of staff, and promote the development of neighboring communities.

The lodge sits on a 500 acre (202 hectare) private reserve with cloud forest and waterfalls. El Silencio has a Sustainability Manager who leads their efforts. Some of their more interesting sustainability measures include a thriving hummingbird garden, beehive for local stingless honeybees, and large organic garden that provides ingredients for their restaurant.

El Silencio Lodge One of the villas at El Silencio Lodge in Bajos del Toro. Photo Credit: El Silencio LodgeBrasilito/Conchal/Flamingo

W Reserva Conchal

Westin Playa Conchal

Margaritaville Beach Resort (Playa Flamingo)

Cahuita Area (Southern Caribbean Coast)

Selva Bananito Lodge

Golfito

Samoa del Sur

Liberia

Hilton Garden Inn LIR Airport

Jaco AreaHighlight

Villa Caletas

Villa Caletas is an upscale hotel in the Jaco area. It sits on a point overlooking the beautiful Gulf of Nicoya, with thick rainforest all around.

To meet its sustainability goals, Villa Caletas uses solar to meet much of its electricity needs, doesn’t use pesticides, has a tree-planting program, and heats hot water with solar or heat produced by air conditioners.

Sunset Villa Caletas View of sunset from the amphitheater at Villa CaletasOther Certified Hotels

Los Suenos Marriott

Punta Leona Resort

Manuel AntonioHighlight

Hotel Costa Verde

Hotel Costa Verde is a popular mid-range hotel in Manuel Antonio. The large property is spread out, with several different buildings and bungalows as the accommodations. All rooms are nestled in the rainforest. Wildlife, especially monkeys, is plentiful on the property.

One of the most prominent ways that Costa Verde furthers sustainability is by upcycling. Lighting and decorations are made from colorful glass bottles. They have even taken old airplane fuselages and turned them into hotel rooms!

Costa Verde makes most of their own furniture from naturally downed trees from the region. They plant 10,000 trees and plants every year on their properties. The hotel uses biodegradable cleaning products, doesn’t use pesticides, and uses captured rainwater for laundry.

Airplane Hotel Room Costa Verde One of the airplane hotel rooms you can stay in at Hotel Costa VerdeOther Certified Hotels

Arenas del Mar Beachfront Resort

Hotel San Bada Resort and Spa

Parador Resort and Spa

Villas Lirio

MonteverdeHighlights

Hotel Belmar

Hotel Belmar is a luxury ecolodge in Monteverde. The property has a few different buildings, all artfully crafted with local wood. With thick forest as the backdrop, many rooms have a cloud forest view.

Hotel Belmar has many sustainability practices. Among other things, they capture rainwater, have solar hot water heaters, have a biodigester that treats sewage while producing biogas for heating water, and uses products that are biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as those with less packaging.

The hotel is located on a nature reserve. They also have a greenhouse for growing vegetables and herbs for their restaurant. Our family has stayed here before and we all really enjoyed it.

Hotel Belmar Monteverde CST Hotel Belmar, a luxury ecolodge in Monteverde’s misty cloud forest

Valle Escondido Nature Reserve Hotel & Farm

This small, family-run ecolodge is located just outside the main area of Monteverde at the end of a private road. Thick forest surrounds the property, and the Pacific Ocean can be seen in the distance. The hotel is situated on a nature reserve that protects 17 hectares (44 acres).

Valle Escondido has an organic permaculture farm, farm-to-table dining, and a reserve with hiking trails and waterfalls. Some of their projects include rainwater collection, graywater management, composting, a tilapia aquaculture project, and a so-called huglekultur garden, which is a high production, low maintenance method of gardening, Guests can take part in one of their sustainability tours.

Valle Escondido Ecolodge Valle Escondido, an ecolodge with a reserve onsite. Photo Credit: Valle EscondidoOther Certified Hotels

Albergue La Casona Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde

Hotel Poco a Poco

Trapp Family Lodge Monteverde

NosaraHighlight

Olas Verdes

Olas Verdes is a high-end boutique hotel in the heart of Playa Guiones. It was Costa Rica’s first Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Platinum hotel.

Olas Verdes started as new construction and was designed to minimize A/C through passive solar, shading, predominant wind patterns, and natural ventilation. To help offset the hotel’s energy needs, they have solar panels and solar hot water.

The hotel was designed to protect the sensitive ecosystem surrounding the property. They included a large no-build area to provide a setback from the ocean, minimized stormwater runoff, and used sustainable construction as much as possible to protect an adjacent wildlife refuge.

Importantly, the project was designed to save water, which can be scarce in Nosara during dry season. They have an underground rainwater storage system that captures up to 14,000 liters of rainfall. Graywater is treated with bacteria instead of chemicals, then recycled to irrigate the property.

Olas Verdes Sustainable Hotel Olas Verdes, a sustainable hotel in the surf town of Nosara. Photo Credit: Olas VerdesOther Certified Hotels

Guilded Iguana

Harmony Hotel

Hotel Boutique Lagarta Lodge

Osa PeninsulaHighlight

Lapa Rios

Lapa Rios is a luxury ecolodge on the Osa Peninsula, a premier ecotourism destination. It was started with the intention of preserving the pristine rainforest of the Osa. The 17-bungalow lodge preserves an impressive 1,000 acres (405 hectares) of primary and secondary rainforest. This land abuts Corcovado National Park and provides an important wildlife corridor.

The lodge is 100% solar, uses renewable materials for low-impact construction, serves organic foods, uses local biodegradable products, and employs locals from the Puerto Jimenez area.

Lapa Rios Ecolodge Osa Lapa Rios, a high-end ecolodge on the remote Osa Peninsula. Photo Credit: Lapa RiosOther Certified Hotels

Bosque del Cabo

Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge

Papagayo Peninsula

Andaz Resort Papagayo

Four Seasons Resort

Planet Hollywood Resort

Secrets Papagayo All Inclusive

Playa Hermosa (Guanacaste)/Playa Panama

El Mangroove

Hotel & Villas Huetares

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui

Selva Verde Lodge and Reserve

Tirimbina Rainforest Lodge

Tirimbina Lodge Reserve Hanging bridge in Tirimbina Lodge’s reserve. Photo Credit: Tirimbina LodgeRio Celeste/Bijagua

Rio Celeste Hideaway

The Rio Celeste Hideaway is a high-end hotel located near the beautiful Rio Celeste Waterfall. Their property protects about 30 acres (12 hectares) of primary and secondary forest.

To help mitigate their carbon footprint, they have an annual tree-planting initiative through Community Carbon Trees, a local organization in Costa Rica that we work with as well (you can learn more about them here).

Rio Celeste Hideaway also supports work done by the neighboring Tenorio Volcano National Park, has chemical-free gardens and a greenhouse, uses locals for the majority of their employees and suppliers, and teaches kids in public schools about recycling and conservation.

Rio Celeste HideawayRainforest views at Rio Celeste Hideaway. Photo Credit: Rio Celeste HideawayRincon de la Vieja

Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin

SamaraHighlight

Hotel Giada

Hotel Giada is a charming, budget-friendly hotel in the main area of Samara. The hotel is within walking distance to many restaurants and the beach.

At Hotel Giada, they are 100% carbon neutral. They achieved this primarily due to their use of solar, but also because they use environmentally certified suppliers. They purchase carbon credits for any necessary offsets.

The hotel also sponsors the Blue Zone Foundation of Nicoya, an organization that has been working with a small group of centenarians (people who live to be 100) that live on the Nicoya Peninsula. Hotel Giada contributes to the efforts of the Coral Project of Samara, a non-profit that aims to repopulate Samara Bay with coral reef.

Hotel Giada Sustainable Hotel Samara Hotel Giada in Playa Samara. Photo Credit: Hotel GiadaOther Certified Hotels

Leyenda Boutique Hotel & Spa

San Jose AreaHighlight

Finca Rosa Blanca Coffee Farm and Inn

Finca Rosa Blanca is a 30+ acre (12+ hectare) property in the mountains of Heredia near San Jose with an organic coffee farm and hotel. It was started by a local family with three goals: hospitality, community, and the environment.

The property focuses on sustainability and regenerative tourism (restoring what has been lost). Hot water and electricity come from solar power, their pool is chemical free, and they avoid chemicals in general. They have planted over 5,000 native trees in the last 25 years and were one of the first carbon-neutral hotels in Costa Rica.

Finca Rosa Blanca Ecolodge Finca Rosa Blanca hotel and coffee farm near San Jose. Photo Credit: Finca Rosa BlancaOther Certified Hotels

AC Hotel by Marriott San José Escazú

Apartotel La Sabana

Crowne Plaza San Jose La Sabana

Courtyard Marriott SJO Airport

Doubletree by Hilton Cariari

Hotel Aeropuerto

Hotel Isla Verde

Hotel Presidente

Real Intercontinental at Multiplaza Mall (Escazu)

Hotel Villa Los Candiles (Santa Ana)

Marriott Hacienda Belen

Palma Real Hotel & Casino

Quality Hotel Real San Jose

Residence Inn by Marriott San Jose Escazu

Sheraton San Jose Hotel and Casino

Studio Hotel (Santa Ana)

Xandari Resort and Spa

San Gerardo de Dota

Dantica Cloud Forest Lodge

Dantica is a small lodge in the quiet mountains south of San Jose. They have bungalows with floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the cloud forest. The property backs a large nature reserve.

Some of their sustainability practices include solar hot water and using efficient ethanol (from sugar cane) to heat the rooms. They don’t use pesticides or other chemicals on the property and hire locals from San Gerardo de Dota or Los Santos region as much as possible.

Dantica Lodge Sustainable Hotel Amazing cloud forest views at Dantica Lodge in San Gerardo de DotaSanta Teresa

Hotel Nantipa

Tambor (Nicoya Peninsula)

Tango Mar

Tamarindo AreaHighlight

Cala Luna Boutique Hotel

Cala Luna is a gorgeous boutique hotel just south of Tamarindo in Playa Langosta. The property has contemporary villas nestled in the thick tropical forest. A short walk away is the quiet Playa Langosta. Cala Luna aims to combine well-being and eco-luxury, with a holistic spa, onsite yoga classes, and sustainable gastronomy. We have stayed here before and really enjoyed it.

Cala Luna recently underwent a huge solar project, installing 1,400 solar panels to offset about 34 tons of their energy usage. The panels are saline protected and marine grade to resist saltwater damage. Cala Luna’s restaurant uses local, organic ingredients from their farm.

Cala Luna Howler Monkey Howler monkeys in the trees at Cala Luna near TamarindoOther Certified Hotels

Hotel Occidental Tamarindo

Uvita/DominicalHighlight

Rancho Pacifico

Rancho Pacifico is a luxury boutique hotel perched in the mountains of Uvita on the jungle-filled southern Pacific coast. This adults-only hotel offers the perfect setting for couples looking to unwind in a serene, natural setting.

The hotel was designed for sustainability and even has green roofs. The common areas are completely open air, allowing for natural ventilation without the need for air conditioning. Over 95% of their electricity is produced from renewable sources.

Drinking water comes from a mountain spring and is treated with UV light instead of chemicals. Ingredients for their restaurant come from local suppliers and their own garden. To involve guests, they offer local experiences like to turtle-nesting sites and family farms.

They have joined 1% for the Planet and donate 1% of their revenues to sustainability causes. They also worked with a local organization called Community Carbon Trees to plant 700 native trees on the property.

Rancho Pacifico Uvita Rancho Pacifico, an adults-only boutique hotel in Uvita. Photo Credit: Rancho PacificoOther Certified Hotels

Hotel Marino Ballena

Villas Rio Mar

Miscellaneous Locations

Rio Perdido Hotel and Thermal River (Guanacaste)

Rio Perdido CST Rio Perdido, a resort located remotely in Guanacaste with hot springs onsite

Villa Blanca Hotel and Nature Reserve(near San Ramon)

Cedrela Ecolodge (Copey de Dota)

Fiesta Resort All Inclusive (Puntarenas)

Hotel Emanuel (Agua Buena near San Vito)

Hotel Rinconcito Verde (Paraiso, Cartago)

Other Sustainable Hotels in Costa Rica

If you want to support hotels that are sustainable, this list is a good place to start. However, not every hotel in Costa Rica that supports sustainability is on it.

Keep in mind that the Certification of Sustainable Tourism is difficult to get. The paperwork involved is lengthy and complex. Most businesses need to hire an expert consultant to go through the process. Some may be in the middle of the process (waiting for certification), while others may not have the resources to get it.

In addition, some hotels have other notable kinds of certification like Rainforest Alliance, LEED, or Costa Rica’s Blue Flag (Bandera Azul). The Blue Flag program is awarded to beaches, towns, and businesses that help reduce pollution and promote environmental education.

Conclusion

We hope this article has helped you find hotels in Costa Rica that support sustainability.

If you know of a hotel not on this list that genuinely works towards sustainability in their business model, feel free to give them a shout-out in the comments below.

Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

Costa Rica Rental Car Discount: If you’re planning to rent a car, check out our discount through one of Costa Rica’s most reputable companies, Adobe Rent a Car. They are carbon neutral.

Itineraries: Not sure how to best structure your itinerary? Our Itineraries page has sample itineraries to get you started.

Vacation Rentals in Costa Rica: Safety and What to Look for – Airbnbs can be a little different in Costa Rica. Learn the pitfalls to avoid and what to look for in listings.

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Published on April 14, 2023 11:36

April 7, 2023

Choosing Sustainable Travel: Costa Rica’s Sustainable Tourism Program

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Costa Rica is known as an ecotourism destination, but how do you know your hotel or tour company is truly sustainable? The Costa Rican government has created a formal certification program. Called the Certification of Sustainable Tourism, this rigorous program allows hotels, tour operators, and other tourism businesses to be recognized for their sustainable practices. In this post, we’ll tell you more about the program. In a subsequent post, we’ll provide a list of hotels in Costa Rica that have the Certification of Sustainable Tourism.

Certification Sustainable Tourism Costa Rica

 

Background

Certification of Sustainable Tourism Overview

The Certification of Sustainable Tourism (CST) program was created in 1997 to ensure Costa Rica’s success as a sustainable tourism destination in the world. It was also intended to prevent “greenwashing,” where businesses exaggerate their environmental practices for marketing purposes.

The CST is a voluntary program that recognizes tourism companies that mitigate their impacts. It focuses on environmental impacts, while at the same time advancing social, cultural, and economic goals.

The program defines sustainable tourism as

ICT definition sustainability

The CST standard incorporates goals on a national level. It also reflects various international criteria, including the United Nation’s Global Goals for Sustainable Development.

The program has been recognized by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council.

Program Administration

The CST program is administered by Costa Rica’s Institute of Tourism (ICT).

Two organizations were formed specifically for the program, the Department of Certifications and Responsible Social Tourism and the Technical Verification Commission. They are responsible for certifying businesses and ensuring ongoing compliance.

The Technical Verification Commission is made up of the academic sector, private companies, the public sector, and two international organizations. Specifically, the ICT, Ministry of Environment and Energy, Ministry of Culture, National Institute of Biodiversity, University of Costa Rica, Central American Institute of Business Administration, National Chamber of Tourism, Land Council, and the World Union for Conservation of Nature.

You can find more information about the program on the ICT website and CST website.

Getting the CST

Looking at the requirements for a business to get the CST, the CST program is rigorous.

The application process requires businesses to submit detailed responses to a series of questions, along with supporting documents about their business management and environmental, social, economic, and cultural impacts. There are also industry-based factors (e.g., for hotels, tour operators, restaurants, rental car companies).

Once an application is submitted, an auditor does an in-depth review. They then make a technical report, explaining the corrections needed and requesting an action plan from the business. There is then some back and forth about the final action plan and the auditor may do a site visit.

We have heard from hotels that it is a very involved, time-consuming process—often taking years! Hotels usually need to hire a specialized consultant to help with the paperwork, which can be expensive.

CST Levels

When a business gets the CST, it either achieves basic or elite status. The basic level requires fulfilling all the mandatory questions. Elite status goes beyond that and requires an even higher level of compliance.

You may see some businesses with a logo showing leaves instead. This was the program’s old designation of using zero to five leaves, where five leaves had the highest certification level. Some companies still use this logo today.

Old CST LogoThe old logo with leavesWhat It Means to Be CST Certified

A tourism business that is CST certified has met several sustainability requirements. Here’s a short list to give you an idea:

The company avoids emissions and damage to the environment by pollution and chemicals.

The company actively works to manage and conserve the environment.

The company uses environmentally friendly waste management practices.

The company uses natural, biodegradable products and recycles.

The company has a program for conserving water and electricity.

The company educates and encourages guests to be sustainable.

The company complies with environmental standards, archaeological heritage standards, and safety standards.

The company employs residents of the local community.

The company promotes the traditions and customs of Costa Rica.

Solar Costa Rica HotelSolar panels on a hotel in Costa RicaCST-Certified Businesses

You can find a list of businesses that have the Certification of Sustainable Tourism on the CST website (“Empresas y Organizaciones Certificados”). Keep in mind that this list is not complete; it does not seem to include all the businesses that have the CST for some reason.

The majority of businesses that have gone through the certification are hotels; however, there are some tour companies and operators, museums, rental car companies, and transportation companies.

Non-CST Businesses & Other Certifications

Additionally, there are lots of sustainability-minded businesses in Costa Rica that may not have the resources to obtain the CST certification or are still in the process.

You may be able to find other efforts of sustainability by browsing a company’s website.

Another robust sustainability program to look for in Costa Rica is the Blue Flag Certification. This certification has different levels as well, ranging from zero to five stars. It covers many sectors from beaches and parks to businesses and farms.    

Finally, there are international certifications and recognitions for things like obtaining carbon neutrality, being Rainforest Alliance Certified, donating to organizations like 1% for the Planet, and more.

Wind Turbines Costa RicaWind turbines in the Miravalles Volcano areaConclusion

The CST program is a good step towards improving sustainability in tourism in Costa Rica. The businesses with certification have done a lot of work to achieve it. With this knowledge of the program, you’ll now have a greater appreciation of those little green leaf logos proudly displayed in hotels and other businesses.

Next week, we will be coming out with a list of hotels that have attained the CST, so stay tuned!

Have a question about sustainable tourism in Costa Rica? Ask us below.Interested in hearing more about environmental organizations in Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

Keeping Costa Rica Green: Community Carbon TreesThis organization is helping to reforest Costa Rica with native trees using the help of local farmers.

MareBlu: Protecting Costa Rica’s Beaches – MareBlu, on the central Pacific coast, focuses on combating ocean pollution, especially plastic.

Kids Saving the Rainforest: If you’re visiting Manuel Antonio, you can support this important wildlife rehabilitation center on a tour.

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Published on April 07, 2023 06:56

March 31, 2023

Dekra: Costa Rica’s Annual Vehicle Inspection

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Costa Rica’s annual vehicle inspection, known as Dekra (previously Riteve), can make even the most carefree person stressed out. Will the car pass easily or will you have to pay hundreds of dollars to get something fixed? With our older cars, we usually asked a local mechanic to handle the inspection appointment. Once, we brought the car ourselves along with a Tico friend. This year, we felt fairly confident that our three-year old Hyundai Tucson was in good enough shape to go it alone. In this post, we’ll share our Dekra experience and explain how the process works.

vehicle inspection building

Overview of Dekra 

For those new to Costa Rica or hoping to move here soon, Dekra is the company contracted to carry out all the country’s vehicle inspections. This mechanical check-up is what vehicles must pass in order to be driven legally. It applies to cars, trucks, buses, motorcycles, and even ATVs (if you drive them on public roads).

Basically, the inspection tests the safety of your vehicle and pollution levels coming from the tailpipe. Many of you may have experienced similar tests in your home country. Where we lived, in Massachusetts and Maine, we had to bring our car to an approved mechanic. Here in Costa Rica, there are more than a dozen dedicated Dekra-inspection facilities scattered around the country. 

When is Dekra Inspection Due?

The date your Dekra inspection is due corresponds with the last number of your license plate. Ours ends in nine, so our Dekra is due in September. Plates ending in one are due in January, two in February, three in March, and so on. License plates ending with zero are due in October.

Newer vehicles (less than five-years old) need the inspection every two years. All older vehicles need to be inspected annually. Public transport vehicles (buses) are required to get inspected twice a year. 

The car you own should already have a Dekra (or Riteve, if it is older) sticker on the windshield with a date on it. That is the date your next vehicle inspection is due. For example, a sticker that says JUN 24 means you need to get your car inspected before the end of June 2024.  

Costa Rica vehicle inspection sticker on windshield

Note: Before 2022, Dekra was called Riteve. Riteve was the previous company that had the government contract (for 20 years). The transition from Riteve to Dekra was severely delayed as they signed government contracts and set up their inspection stations. Our September 2022 inspection due date was repeatedly delayed. We finally got it done in March 2023. For the remainder of 2023, those who still need past due inspection from 2022 should schedule an appointment for the corresponding month they were due in 2022 (e.g., Oct. 2023 if you were due in Oct. 2022). This news article explains. 

Making an Appointment

You can’t just show up for a Dekra inspection; an appointment is required. Appointments can be made by calling 4000-1100. However, we have heard that sometimes they never answer. Instead, we recommend making an appointment through the company’s website. This was very easy when we did it. 

From the home page, you can select ESTACIONES DE INSPECCION (Inspection Stations) and choose the nearest facility to your home. 

Next select CITA POR INTERNET (internet appointment). A screen will open where you select the type of vehicle you want to inspect (automobile, motorcycle, etc.).

Continue through the menu, selecting a date on the calendar (available dates are in green) and then the specific time. Appointments generally start in the early morning and continue into the evening. 

Finally, you will enter your name, license plate number, and contact details. An appointment confirmation will be sent to your email.

Tip: Be prepared to wait. We showed up about 10 minutes early for our appointment and still waited about 45 minutes in line. 

Cars lined up at a Dekra stationThe line waiting for inspection at Dekra.Dekra Inspection Cost

The cost for a Dekra vehicle inspection is ₡7,156 + IVA (about $15) for a regular car. You will pay this when you arrive at the facility. They take credit cards, SINPE movil, and cash. 

If you have to fix something on your car and come back, the second appointment costs ₡1,917 + IVA (about $4).

Motorcycles and ATVs cost ₡4,715 + IVA (about $10) for the initial inspection and ₡1,263 + IVA (about $3) if you need to fix something and come back. 

How Strict is Dekra?

Having seen some questionable automobiles on the roads in Costa Rica—picture an old ‘70s pickup billowing black smoke and dragging its bumper—we assumed that there were some questionable practices happening when it came to vehicle inspections.

After seeing the process for ourselves, though, we have to say that it is very thorough. Everything is much more high tech and sophisticated than we had imagined.

As for bribes or knowing someone who works there, we would also have to say that this is highly unlikely. Every test is recorded by computers, and when we went with a friend once who knew almost everyone there, we still failed our initial test (our older car).

This, of course, doesn’t stop the owners of questionable cars from making temporary adjustments right before their appointment to ensure that their car passes. This definitely happens. As an example, when buying new tires once, we learned that we could also rent tires for just a day or two if we wanted. 

We highly recommend at least taking your car to the mechanic to do a basic check beforehand. We did this and the mechanic found a burned out license plate light that we hadn’t noticed. Just that alone was worth the small amount he charged and time savings of failing inspection. 

During the inspection, they also look for things that you may not realize. We live on a dirt road and the mechanic told us we should have our engine power washed because the inspectors were not going to like how dirty it was.

Dekra Inspection: What’s Involved?

What surprised us most about the Dekra inspection was the advanced technology.

Back in the US, a mechanic would look around our car for signs of a problem (bad tires or brakes, burned out light bulbs, fluid leaks, etc.) and then use a computer to test the car’s engine and exhaust emissions.

Cars entering the inspection bays at Dekra buildingCars entering the inspection building in Puntarenas.

At Dekra, our car went through an assembly line of at least seven different stations, each testing something different and each with its own high-tech computer and monitor.

Below are the types of tests you can expect.

Basic Exterior Check

When we first drove into the Dekra building, a technician approached and asked us to go through the car’s turn signals, high beams/low beams, windshield wipers, and horn. They then tested the angle of the headlights with a device that rolls in front of the car and inspected the tread on the tires. At this point, a small sensor was also placed in the tailpipe, measuring the car’s emissions. 

Basic Interior Check

As we pulled up to the next station, the technician checked inside the car, looking around with a flashlight, and made sure each seatbelt worked properly. He also found the VIN number on the frame under the front passenger seat and made sure it matched his paperwork. 

SUV getting inspected in Costa RicaInside the Dekra inspection building.Shocks and Struts Test

This is where we started to get impressed. At the next station, the technician had us drive onto a set of four pads. He turned something on and suddenly it felt like we were in an earthquake. Looking at the nearby monitor, there were graphs showing how responsive our shocks were with every bump and jolt.

Brake Test

The next station had sets of rollers under the wheels. This allowed the wheels to turn while the car stayed in one place. At the request of the technician, we applied the brakes, while the computer measured our ability to stop.

Many years ago, we had a car fail for the emergency brake portion of the test. Although the brake worked, the computer read that we had 70% stopping ability on one of the rear wheels and only 30% on the other. Even if you fail one test, you continue down the line.   

Computer monitor showing testing gaugesBrake-testing monitorsSide-to-Side Test

Similar to the shock test, this time the four pads under the wheels were moved from side to side. We’re not exactly sure what this one measured but our wheels stayed on so that was good.

Underbody Inspection

Almost at the exit now, we rolled up over a large pit. The technician walked down some steps into the pit, and with a flashlight, inspected the undercarriage. He asked us to turn the wheel from side to side and then zig-zag the wheel rapidly.

Although our Spanish is fairly good, it was difficult to hear and understand him from under the car. He was a little frustrated but another technician came to help and we worked through it. 

Emissions Test

This was the last test in the line. The car in front of us was older and needed this test. We did not, maybe because we passed the first emissions test or because our car was newer. 

For the car in front of us, a large cone connected to a flexible tube (that exited the building) was placed at the tailpipe. The driver then had to rev the engine. Even with the cone and tube in place, black smoke was billowing out the sides. The technician put on an elaborate gas mask, and they tested it again.

There was some conversation and pointing to the computer monitor after this. The driver got out of his car and looked pretty disappointed so we don’t think he passed.

Getting a New Dekra sticker

After the last test in the Dekra building, we sat in the car at the end of the line and waited. One of the technicians worked on the nearby computer and was handing out the results. Since our car passed everything, we received a new sticker and document to keep in the glove box and were on our way.

Yay, no more stress until next time, pura vida

What if You Fail a Dekra Inspection?

We have, unfortunately, had this happen too. If you fail, you will receive a paper with a description of the problems that caused the failure. You can then take that to a nearby mechanic to get things adjusted or repaired. All Dekra stations have plenty of private mechanic shops set up nearby, helping people with these headaches.

If it is a quick fix like a lightbulb or brake cleaning, you can usually come right back. We saw one car that was allowed to cut to the front of the line, spend a few minutes to get reinspected, and then drive back out. If it is something more major, you may have to schedule a reinspection appointment for a later date. 

Conclusion

Overall, the experience of going through a Dekra inspection is tedious and stressful but also quite fascinating. The level of technology used in the facility is impressive. The technicians used computers and tablets throughout the process, and we could see firsthand how you can’t get away with too much. Overall, we feel that Costa Rica’s vehicle inspection does a good job ensuring the safety of all the cars on the road. Of course, if you are temporarily renting some brake pads or new tires just to pass inspection, that is another story!  

Have you experienced Costa Rica’s vehicle inspection for yourself? How does it compare to what you had to do back home? Leave us a comment below. Looking for more articles like this? Check out these posts: 

Renewing Permanent Residency in Costa Rica – If your DIMEX card is expiring soon, read this post to see how the renewal process works.

International Driving Permit in Costa Rica – If you are visiting your home country after living in Costa Rica for a while, you may need an international driving permit if your license back home has expired. Read this post for instructions on how to get one.

Renovating a House in Costa Rica – Tips on remodeling a home in Costa Rica, from our own experience.

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Published on March 31, 2023 11:05

March 23, 2023

Kids Saving the Rainforest

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Costa Rica is an ecotourism destination filled with a variety of jungle creatures. But have you ever thought about what happens to these animals when they are injured in the wild? Behind the scenes in busy tourist destinations are organizations that rescue and rehabilitate wildlife. In this post, we’ll tell you about one such organization near Manuel Antonio called Kids Saving the Rainforest. We recently learned more about their work on a tour. They offer a general tour of the center along with a volunteering tour for a more hands-on experience.

Coati Kids Saving the Rainforest

Background on Kids Saving the Rainforest

Kids Saving the Rainforest has an interesting history.

It all started in 1999 with a couple of nine-year old girls. Concerned about what was happening to the monkeys in Manuel Antonio because of development, they set off to buy small portions of the rainforest for conservation. To raise money, they began painting rocks to sell to tourists. With only $160 in their pockets, they formed an administration for their new organization.

Painted RockA painted rock like the ones the girls made when first starting the center.

Soon people started bringing them injured animals that needed help. The organization slowly grew, and in 2005, they opened a formal rescue center. In 2008, they started the wildlife sanctuary. This is a place where animals can live out the rest of their lives if they are unable to be released back into the wild.

Today, Kids Saving the Rainforest is an influential non-profit organization with a full staff, including biologists and veterinarians. Its main goals are to protect the wildlife of Costa Rica’s Pacific coast through their rescue center and sanctuary. They also work to minimize the causes of why animals need to be rescued through educational programs, reforestation projects, and wildlife bridge projects.

On a visit to Manuel Antonio, you’ll see their blue “monkey bridges” in key locations around town. These simple ropes help animals cross the street and avoid being hit by cars or electrocuted by crossing on power lines. These bridges aren’t just for the monkeys, though. Kids Saving the Rainforest has found that 25 different animal species use them.

Monkey Bridge QueposThese ropes are wildlife bridges. You can find them throughout Manuel Antonio.Kids Saving the Rainforest Tour

Taking a tour of the rescue center and sanctuary is one way that you can help support the important work of this organization. It’s also a great way to see the wildlife up close.

Introduction

Our tour started at the Kids Saving the Rainforest facility in Quepos, about 25 minutes from Manuel Antonio.

We met Rowan, a friendly volunteer from the Netherlands who would be our guide. A big part of the team at Kids Saving the Rainforest are student volunteers who come from around the world for the chance to work with jungle animals.

Walking Around the Property

Rowan started our tour outside with some interesting facts to teach us a bit about the ecology of the rainforest.

Under a giant blue banyan tree, we learned that about 100 different species lived in this one tree alone. It was covered in bromeliads, so-called air plants, and even had a vanilla vine hanging down.

Blue Banyan tree QueposOur tour group with guide Rowan under the blue banyan tree

He went on to show us one of Costa Rica’s most important crops, sugar cane. We learned that they press it and give the juice to the animals at the center. The animals also will bite on the hard exterior to get the juices then spit out what they don’t want.

Kids Saving the Rainforest is working now to plant more sugar cane and other crops on their large property in the hopes of becoming more self-sustainable. Not only do they need fresh fruits and vegetables for their staff and guests, but also to feed the animals.

Continuing on, he pointed out some giant mounds on the ground. These were the nests of leaf-cutter ants, those small ants known for carrying pieces of leaf matter back to their nest. Rowan explained about the intricate hierarchy of an ant colony and why these tiny creatures are so important.

Leaf Cutter Any ColonyBusy leaf-cutter antsAnimal Kitchen

After learning more about some other insects and plants on the property, we set off for the wildlife sanctuary.

Before meeting the animals, we made a stop at the Wildlife Animal Kitchen where they keep the food and medicine.

Wildlife Animal Kitchen at Kids Saving the RainforestThe Wildlife Animal Kitchen

Inside was dry-erase board with the names of each animal currently under their care. It gave information on what they were eating and any medication they needed to take. Rowan explained that each animal is on a carefully planned diet to keep them healthy.

Touring the Sanctuary and Meeting the Animals

Continuing on the path, we came to an area with several enclosures. These were all located in one main area.

Wildlife SanctuaryHeading down to the wildlife sanctuaryGreat Curassow and Sloths

As we were approaching the first enclosure, we heard a strange clucking noise. It was coming from a Great Curassow. This is a large turkey-like ground bird. The poor Curassow had been illegally kept with chickens on a farm and had taken on some of their characteristics, hence the clucking.

The next enclosure we visited had some two-toed sloths. At the time of our tour, these were the only sloths they had at the property. All the three-toed sloths had been successfully released, which was great news.

These adorable two-toed sloths were cuddled up in a piece of fabric hanging behind the metal fence, almost like a hammock. One of them nicknamed Senora Donna had been electrocuted, which can happen when animals are on uninsulated electricity lines. Kids Saving the Rainforest rehabilitated and then released her. One week later, the poor creature was then hit by a car when crossing the road and broke her leg.

Two-toed sloths in sanctuaryThe two-toed sloths cuddling in their enclosureMarmosets

Next to the sloths were marmosets. These small, adorable animals are in the primate family but not native to Costa Rica. They are at Kids Saving the Rainforest after being used in a research project about breeding. Instead of trying to release the animals, the research center dropped them off at the center to avoid having to do paperwork.

The marmosets now live there permanently and are well known among staff and visitors. Rowan told us that these frisky creatures jump and bite volunteers when they enter the cage. They also like to get on the staff’s shoulders and keep moving from one side to the other.

MarmosetsThe spunky marmosets

We continued down the path, learning the story about each animal. Some of the other animals we met were two Geoffroy’s Tamarin, white-faced monkeys, kinkajou, coati, collared peccaries, and a raccoon.

Parrots

There also were a lot of parrots. Some people in Costa Rica like to keep birds as pets and teach them to talk. One person had taken in some White-crowned parrots without realizing that this species is quiet and doesn’t talk.

Some other Red-lored amazon parrots also were kept as pets. One can make an ambulance noise, and another can say hola and laugh like a person. Since these birds have fully clipped wings, they can’t survive in the wild.

Monkeys

One of the most memorable animals was Nina the spider monkey. Spider monkeys are fascinating because they use all their long limbs and tail to move around. They are one of the most endangered monkey species in Central America because of habitat loss, hunting, and the illegal pet trade.

Nina’s story is that she lived in a mansion and then was sold to the circus where she got severely burned. She’s now 32 years old and was one of the first animals at the center. Nina now has arthritis, which they give her medicine for. She shares an enclosure with a young spider monkey named Darwin. He also lived with humans but was disowned when he broke his owner’s hand. The two get along well together and Darwin is very protective of Nina.

Spider monkey wildlife rehab center Costa RicaNina the spider monkey

Clyde, the squirrel monkey, is also a permanent resident. He was found as a baby. They rehabilitated him and tried to release him with a troop of squirrel monkeys in the area where he was found, but he didn’t want to go. He turned around, ran away from group they were trying to introduce him to, and went back to the staff.

It was fascinating to learn about all the work that Kids Saving the Rainforest does for each animal.

While there are many animals that will live out their lives at the center, many others are able to be released. Kids Saving the Rainforest has about a 40% success rate for release. This is significant, as other centers have only 20-25% success. At the time of our visit, a Spectacled owl, Brown Booby (sea bird), and green sea turtle were either in the vet clinic being treated or recently released.

Snack

After visiting with the animals, Rowan brought us back to the reception area where we got to cool off and enjoy some fresh juice and fruits.

Tropical fruitOur post-tour snackPlanning Your Visit to Kids Saving the RainforestTour OptionsRegular Tour

The most popular tour is the regular tour of the center that we did.

Cost: $60 per person adults. $45 per person children ages 3-17. Free for children under 3.

Offered: 9:00 a.m. and 11:00 a.m.

Duration: 2-3 hours

Volunteering Tour

For those wanting more hands-on experience, there’s the longer volunteering tour. This starts with the regular tour. After, you’ll have lunch at their onsite restaurant then the volunteering portion will begin. You’ll be able to prepare food for the animals based on their special diets, help with feedings, prepare enrichment activities, clean the enclosures, and help with any other activities that may be needed that day.

Cost: $100 per person (recommended for ages 7 and up)

Offered: 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

*Note that Kids Saving the Rainforest has a hands-off policy. Visitors are not able to touch or handle the animals. This is better for the animals and also required by Costa Rican law.

How to Book a Tour

Tours can be booked directly through Kids Saving the Rainforest’s website.

Directions to Kids Saving the Rainforest

Kids Saving the Rainforest is located about 25 minutes from Manuel Antonio. It’s in a rural location. From Manuel Antonio, you’ll drive to the main highway, Highway 34, and through the palm fields to get there. They have very good signs along the way.

Here is a Google Map with the location.

Road to Kids Saving the RainforestThe road through the palm fields to the center

If you won’t have a rental car, transportation is available for $5 per person.

Ways to Help

Go on a Tour: A great way to help this wonderful organization is to simply go on one of their tours. All proceeds go to the animals and projects.

Amazon Wish List: Many things in Costa Rica are hard to find or very expensive. Kids Saving the Rainforest has a wish list on Amazon with some of the supplies and equipment they need if you would like to bring something along with you.

Donate: You also can donate through their website. Specific projects are available for sponsorship so you could help build a new monkey bridge, support environmental education in local schools, or even help buy incubators for the baby animals they take in. Here is a link to the different options. They are a US 501(c)(3) non-profit organization.

Stay with Them: Kids Saving the Rainforest also has three cute cottages that are available to rent through their onsite lodge called the Blue Banyan Inn. There was a family on our tour staying in one of them and they were having a great time.

Conclusion

Kids Saving the Rainforest is an important, well-respected wildlife and conservation organization in Costa Rica. For most of our nine years living in Costa Rica, we have lived within an hour or two of Manuel Antonio. It’s always great to catch a monkey using one of their bridges or hear a story about a sloth they saved. We hope you are able to enjoy one of their tours to experience their work for yourself.

Have a question about Kids Saving the Rainforest? Ask us below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Here are some more articles.

Manuel Antonio Bee Farm: Not far from Kids Saving the Rainforest is an interesting bee farm. The owner of this small apiary is passionate about conservation and the bees.

7 Off-the-Beaten Path Things to Do Near Manuel Antonio: Learn about some of the lesser-known activities in the area. Includes hikes, chocolate tours, and a spice farm tour.

Packing for Costa Rica: The Essentials – Costa Rica has many different microclimates. Get a comprehensive list of what to pack with this post.

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Published on March 23, 2023 10:20

March 18, 2023

A Locals’ Guide to Dominical

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Dominical is a small, laid-back beach town on Costa Rica’s southern Pacific Coast. Here, you will find thick jungle, uncluttered beaches, and just enough amenities to feel comfortable. Attracting a mix of hippies, surfers, digital nomads, local Ticos, and long-time expats, Dominical has a truly unique vibe. In this post, we’ll share some of our favorite activities, restaurants, and hotels from our many years living in and visiting this area.

dominical beach with green mountains behind

Background

When we first put down roots in Costa Rica, Dominical is where we landed. What attracted us here? Mostly it was the remoteness, raw nature (especially the wildlife), and of course the warm tropical weather.

We spent nearly five years living near Dominical. While we have since moved a bit up the coast, we still have close ties to the community.

Location & Town Setup

Dominical is located on Costa Rica’s southern Pacific Coast. It is about one hour south of Manuel Antonio and 3.5 hours from Juan Santamaria International Airport (SJO) near San Jose.

Dominical town center is right off the highway, tucked next to the Baru River. Here, you will find one fairly short road leading through town. Restaurants, shops, and other businesses are clustered in a few spots along the paved street.

main road in Dominical with some businesses and parked carsMain street in Dominical

Another road splits off and brings you to the main beach area. The local school, soccer field, and church are centrally located.

While most of the shops and restaurants are in the main area of town, many accommodations and activities are a short drive away in the surrounding hills.

Tip: Unless you are staying right in town, you will want a rental car to get around the Dominical area. Check out our rental car discount page to save 10% and get free extras with one of Costa Rica’s most reliable rental car companies.

Town Amenities

There are a few businesses in Dominical that make it a unique place.

Right at the entrance to town is a plaza with Mama Toucan’s Natural Market. This is a thriving organic and natural food grocery store that has weaved its way into the community over the years.

On the opposite side of the highway is a plaza with the Dominical Market (Super Dominical). This may look like a small grocery store, but it has almost everything you could need on your vacation.

Towards the middle of town is Fuego, a brewery and restaurant with a treehouse feel. They have some of the best craft beer around as well as a full-service restaurant and coffee shop (see restaurant section, below).

Also along the main street is a new plaza with a doctor’s office, medical lab, and pharmacy.

Finally, we would be missing something if we didn’t mention the many souvenir vendors and shops. Street vendors set up under the palm trees near the beach, displaying their colorful sarongs, handmade jewelry, wood carvings, and other handicrafts. There are also souvenir shops throughout town. Ruth’s shop, on the first corner, even makes handmade clothing.

vendors set up under the shade of lofty palm treesThe vendor-lined road that parallels the beachActivities in Dominical Beaches & Surfing

The main beach in town is Playa Dominical.

From the river mouth sandbar going south, Dominical Beach is a rocky beach with powerful waves. Though not great for swimming, the beach is backed by lofty palm trees, perfect for lounging. While sipping coconut water, you can watch skilled surfers take on the waves.  

rocky beach blue water and green hills as the backdropThe rocky but beautiful Playa Dominical

Playa Dominicalito (Little Dominical) is just a few minutes’ drive to the south.

This beach sits in a sheltered cove so the waves aren’t as intense. Beginner and intermediate surfers prefer the waves here. At low tide, the beach also has some nice rocks and tidepools to explore. For more information, read our post, Playa Dominicalito: Surf, Splash, or Fish.

About 15 minutes south of Dominical is another, slightly larger town called Uvita. Uvita has several more beaches to explore within Marino Ballena National Park, the highlight being the famous Whale Tail.

Another notable spot is Playa Ventanas farther south. This beach has caves you can walk in at low tide.

Waterfalls

With steep mountains quickly rising behind Dominical, waterfalls are abundant.

The largest and most impressive set are the Nauyaca Waterfalls. This two-tiered cascade has towering upper falls and a beautiful lower falls. A large rocky pool below creates a refreshing swimming spot.

waterfalls spilling down the rocky mountainsideThe impressive Nauyaca Waterfalls

Also nearby are the Eco-Chontales Waterfall and Diamante Waterfall. These two larger waterfalls require hikes to get to them. Eco-Chontales is shorter and easier. The Diamante hike is challenging and rugged.

Closer to town (in Dominicalito) is a smaller waterfall called Pozo Azul. This is more of a swimming hole with a small cascade but a fun, locals’ spot.

Finally, to the south is the Uvita Waterfall. This medium-sized waterfall is popular for jumping, sliding, and swimming. The river below the falls is also very scenic.  

Hiking

If you are looking to hike, there are a couple of nice options.

Just across the Baru River is a special reserve called Hacienda Baru.

This 815-acre (330-hectare) wildlife refuge has hiking trails and a birdwatching platform. They also offer tours like zip lining, guided hikes, and birding.

The reserve has a variety of habitats that are home to monkeys, sloths, caiman, and hundreds of bird species. There are trails for all abilities. We have always enjoyed hikes here.

a baby caiman on the edge of a puddleA baby caiman at Hacienda Baru

Also, a one-hour drive north is the famous Manuel Antonio National Park. This busier park is known for its abundant wildlife. On a stroll through the main trails, it’s common to spot three of Costa Rica’s four types of monkeys, deer, lizards, mangrove crabs, and many birds. Guided tours of Manuel Antonio National Park may also allow you to see sloths, frogs, snakes, and other more elusive creatures.

Manuel Antonio National Park has beautiful beaches, so don’t forget your swimsuit.

Weekly Farmer’s Market

A weekly tradition for some time now is the Eco Feria Organic Farmer’s Market.

The small but busy feria sets up at the Dominical Plaza (next to the soccer field) from around 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. every Friday.

Farmers and vendors sell fruits, veggies, baked goods, sauces, homemade food and drink, crafts, and clothing. The market attracts a lot of free-spirited locals and visitors, giving it a laid back, bohemian vibe.

Tip: Be careful parking in town along the paved road. Transit police commonly ticket or worse, confiscate license plates if you are not parked in an official parking spot. This is only really enforced along the paved road. Parking at the beach or on the side of dirt roads isn’t a problem.   

Boat Tours

Dominical is part of a larger area known as the Costa Ballena (Whale Coast). For about seven months out of the year, it is possible to see humpback whales migrating just offshore. Whale and dolphin watching tours typically leave from the beach in Uvita and are a fun way to see the beautiful green coastline.

small boat with canopy full of tourist on a whale watch tourA local whale watching boat

Another popular tour is Cano Island. This offshore island is about 1.5 hours away by boat. It’s a good diving spot with lots of rocky structure and has some of the best snorkeling in Costa Rica when conditions are right. We even saw a reef shark once.

One last option for boating fun it to drive north to Marina Pez Vela in Quepos (45 minutes). From here, you can organize catamaran or sailing tours, booze cruises, and sportfishing charters.

Hot Springs

For those travelers not going to volcanic areas like La Fortuna/Arenal, there are some local hot springs.

Eco Termales Quepos are very rustic and more warm than hot, but the setting makes up for it. These pools are about a half-hour into the countryside, surrounded by lush jungle and next to a rushing river. You’ll feel far from it all.

Want even more activities? Read our post 8 Things to Do in Dominical.

Restaurants in Dominical

The restaurant scene in Dominical may be small compared to some of Costa Rica’s larger tourist destinations, but there are still plenty of tasty eats. Below we’ll share some of our favorites. We’ve separated the list by in-town and outside town options.  

In TownPhat Noodle

Phat Noodle has been a favorite for years. The nice outdoor space is fun and quirky, complete with a kitchen inside an old school bus. As the name implies, Phat Noodle serves delicious Asian-inspired cuisine. Dishes like pad Thai, curry bowls, sesame tuna steak, and lettuce wraps are just a few of the offerings. Located on the left as you’re coming into town.

a noodle dish with veggiesHoisin noodles with veggies & chicken at Phat NoodleFuego Brewing Company

Located right off the main strip on a large, private property is Fuego. This brewery, restaurant, and coffee shop has been the perfect addition to Dominical. Craft beers like mango pale ale, session IPA, and hibiscus lager pair nicely with their fish, chicken, or shrimp tacos. One of the best things about Fuego is the ambiance. The restaurant space is huge and feels like a giant treehouse, with beautiful local wood throughout.

Chalk board with craft beer menuThe beer menu at FuegoDel Mar Taco Shop

For delicious burritos and tacos, head to Del Mar Taco Shop. This super casual outdoor restaurant is just off the main beach in Dominical. Our favorite is the surf and turf burrito, but you also can choose beer-battered shrimp or fish, carne asada or pollo asada, bean and cheese, or veggie or vegan options. Located on the southern end of town near the police station.

Cafe Mono Congo

With a peaceful river view and good Wi-Fi, Cafe Mono Congo is a chill breakfast or lunch choice. They whip up healthy dishes made from fresh ingredients. You’ll find vegetarian, gluten free, and vegan options. Or just stop by for a kombucha or cold brew. Located next to Mama Toucan’s Market.

Cafe Ensueno

For good, cheap local food, head to Cafe Ensueno. On a side road from the main beach, this simple restaurant is a favorite fueling-up spot for surfers, locals, and hostel goers. The giant, decadent smoothies are enough for a full meal.

pink frozen smoothie in a tall glass dishThe strawberry smoothie at Ensueno was almost a meal in itself!La Junta

A sandwich shop with a focus on fresh, local ingredients, La Junta offers dishes that are healthy and consciously thought out. They source natural meats, and everything down to the ketchup is homemade and good for you. Located on the main road across from the soccer field. Seating in the back is shady and quieter.

Outside TownLa Parcela

For a restaurant with a view, there is La Parcela. The main reason for this place’s appeal is its spectacular ocean view. La Parcela sits on a point with the ocean on both sides. You can take in the sea breeze over drinks, or they have a full menu with lots of seafood and traditional Costa Rican dishes.

Scala

Up in the mountains, in the Escalares neighborhood, is Dominical’s only fine dining restaurant. Scala has a large selection of upscale snacks and appetizers as well as refined mains. We enjoyed our tuna tartar and beef tenderloin. And the homemade chocolate mousse was the perfect end to a delicious meal.

A beautifully decorated chocolate dessertChocolate mousse at ScalaRicar 2 El Avion

Ricar 2 El Avion is a fun option just outside town. El Avion translates to “the plane,” and next to the restaurant, you will indeed find a full size passenger plane set in the jungle. Inside the aircraft is an Airbnb. Outside is the restaurant, which serves consistently good typical Costa Rican dishes, steak, and seafood.

Hotels and Vacation Rentals  in Dominical

Accommodations in Dominical are fairly spread out. While there are a few hotels and vacation rentals a short walk to the main town and beach, many more options are found in the surrounding hills.

Tribe Boutique Hotel

This adults-only hotel is right off main street in Dominical but is truly a peaceful oasis. Tribe has modern, light, airy rooms that are clean and comfortable. An inviting pool area has lots of loungers, hammocks, and oversized chairs for relaxing among the gardens. Some rooms are on the small side so be sure to check when booking. $100-170/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

poolside lounging areaThe poolside lounging area at Tribe Boutique HotelCanto del Mar

Canto del Mar is a gated community in a great location right off the highway in Dominicalito. The large, well-equipped condos are set in the hillside and have majestic views of Playa Dominicalito, which is right across the highway. We stayed here recently and loved it. It’s easy to get to Dominical for restaurants, and Uvita is just a short drive away as well. You can find specific units for rent on sites like Airbnb and VRBO. There are also some options on booking.com, including the unit we stayed in. Around $150-350/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

jungle and ocean view from balconyOur view from Canto Del MarVillas Alturas

Villas Alturas is a boutique hotel with a handful of contemporary villas. The main draw is their outstanding ocean view. The two-bedroom villas are a great option for families or groups. The property has a nice pool overlooking the sea. Located right off the highway south of Dominical, up a steep road. $200-350/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Lapazul Boutique Hotel

Set high on the hill in the small town of Hatillo just outside Dominical is Lapazul Boutique Hotel and retreat center. This hotel has six spacious, tastefully decorated rooms. Each has a private balcony to take advantage of the ocean and sunset views. Since Lapazul is surrounded by thick jungle, there are a lot of birds and wildlife. Due to local road conditions, you need a 4×4 vehicle to access the property. $275-400/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

infinity pool overlooking sunset on the pacificThe view from Lapazul HotelHotel Tropical Sands

Tropical Sands is a small, budget-friendly hotel right outside the center of town. If you won’t have a rental car, it’s a great option as restaurants and the beach are only a short walk away. Rooms are colorful with tropical flair. They are simple, but clean and comfortable. Some have A/C. A communal kitchen is available for self-catering. $60-90/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Cool Vibes Hostel

This popular hostel has a mix of dorm beds and private rooms with or without A/C. Cool Vibes Hostel is in a similar location to Tropical Sands so within walking distance to amenities. Travelers love the big kitchen and communal living space. $15-50/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Conclusion

A lot has changed in Dominical since we first moved to Costa Rica. The dusty road through town is now paved, new restaurants and medical offices have opened, and the community has certainly grown. However, these things just add to what we love about the town and even improve it. The wild jungle, picturesque waterfalls, and sparkling Pacific remain the pillars of Dominical and shouldn’t be missed. 

Have a question about visiting Dominical? Ask us in the comments below.

Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you book a hotel using one of the links, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Read our Privacy Policy for more information.

Looking for more resources to help plan your trip? Check out these posts:

The Costa Ballena: Uvita, Dominical, and Ojochal – This post covers the general area from Dominical south to Uvita and Ojochal.

Rental Car Discount: As things in and around Dominical are spread out, a rental car makes a lot of sense. Get 10% off and free extras with our discount. Free delivery to Dominical is available from the Uvita office.

Manuel Antonio Trip Planning – If you are hopping down the coast, check out our post all about the popular central Pacific destination of Manuel Antonio.  

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Published on March 18, 2023 13:17

March 10, 2023

Cafe Don Emilio: A Family Coffee Farm Near Uvita

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Costa Rica has its fair share of coffee farms, and each offers a slightly different experience. While some well-known plantations like Cafe Britt and Starbucks are larger and more commercial, the majority remain small and family run. That is the case with Cafe Don Emilio near Uvita. In this post, we’ll tell you about our visit to this small, family-run coffee farm. It was one of the most authentic coffee tours we’ve ever done.

Cafe Don Emilio Coffee Tour

Background

Cafe Don Emilio is located high in the mountains outside Uvita in a small town called San Luis. If you’re visiting Uvita, Dominical, or Ojochal on the southern Pacific coast, it makes a nice day trip.

Once you get off the main highway, you’ll quickly ascend into the mountains. This area is undeveloped for the most part, and peaceful and serene. The road will go from smooth pavement to dirt quickly, with some adventurous inclines. Getting to Cafe Don Emilio is all part of the experience. Once you reach the top of the mountain, you’ll feel far removed from the busyness of the coast.

See driving directions below.

San Luis ValleyThe road to Cafe Don Emilio. Their building is on the right side near the ATVs.Cafe Don Emilio TourIntroductions and Treats

As soon as we arrived, we were met by Deiner and his two little girls.

Deiner is the son of Don Emilio, the owner of the coffee farm. With a charismatic smile, he introduced our two young boys to his kids and invited us in.

We passed into the rustic building and saw a small group of tourists seated around a big wooden table, all ready to begin the tour.

In true pura vida fashion, we didn’t rush to start and all got to enjoy some homemade treats.

Deiner’s mother had prepared chocolate banana bread, which we enjoyed along with some of their coffee. The banana bread had green swirls, the result of a new technique she was trying which used spinach to turn the batter green. It was not only beautiful but delicious too.

Homemade banana bread Costa RicaThe delicious banana bread that Deiner’s mother made for us

With everyone fed and happy, we followed Deiner to the coffee fields.

Coffee ProcessGerminating the Plants

Finding some shade, Deiner explained a bit about the history of coffee in Costa Rica and the details about how it is grown.

We learned that to germinate coffee plants, they put small holes in wooden planks and place a bean in each one. Once sprouted, they take two babies and plant them in a shady spot (in case one dies). In about a year, the plants will mature. Then in two more years, they will begin producing coffee cherries. The same plant can be harvested for six more years, then at year nine, it needs to be cut. In two more years, it will start producing again and the cycle will continue.

Picking Coffee

To get a closer look, we climbed up into a row of coffee plants. Grabbing onto a leafy green branch, Deiner showed us how coffee cherries are harvested.

Coffee fields near UvitaChecking out the coffee fields

Like many things in Costa Rica, at Cafe Don Emilio, they use what they already have and keep it simple. For harvesting, they tie a plastic basket around their waist. This frees up their arms so they can pick faster with two hands.

Insects

Deiner challenged us to a picking contest to see how well we would do.

As he was going along, he came to a coffee cherry with a small hole. Inside, he found a tiny insect called a broca in Spanish. This, he explained, was a constant problem for them. When these insects get inside the beans, they can’t use them anymore. The broca lays 30-100 eggs in just four weeks so can really do some damage to their harvest.

Insect in coffee beanTiny holes created by a “broca” inside the coffee cherry

Because of this, they have to carefully spray the coffee plants with pesticides. The spray they use can’t be too strong because then it would kill the bees too. He said it is very difficult to have truly organic coffee in Costa Rica because of the insects.

Sorting and Drying – Natural Honey Process

After the coffee beans are picked, they put them in water for three to four days. This is a simple way to separate the bad beans, as they will float.

They then dry the beans on tarps in the sun. At Cafe Don Emilio, they use the natural honey process. For this method, they dry the whole fruit with the skin and flesh of the coffee cherry still intact. Other drying methods remove the outer layers first. The honey process, Deiner explained, takes longer but results in sweeter, less acidic coffee.

Honey Process Costa RicaThe honey process – drying the coffee cherries without taking off the skinRemoving the Husk

After the beans are dried, the husks need to be removed.

Previously, Don Emilio would have to use a heavy mortar and pestle to get the husk off. This worked, but was very labor intensive, as they needed to hit the dried beans about 300 times to get the shell removed. 

Mortar and pestle coffee Emilio demonstrating the mortar and pestle method of removing the husk

To solve this problem, Emilio made a device using a bicycle wheel. It takes several times, but the homemade machine does a very good job.

After living in Costa Rica for several years now, we have seen first-hand how innovative Costa Ricans can be. They really are great at using what they have on hand and making something out of nothing. In the example of the bicycle wheel machine, this definitely holds true.

After this step, the coffee beans are separated but still mixed with the husks in one container.

To separate out the shells/husks, they use an old-fashioned method: the wind and a bucket.

When the mixture is thrown into the air, the heavier beans fall back into the bucket. The lighter shells are swiftly blown away by the wind coming up the mountain. He invited each of us to try this clever method at a scenic spot overlooking the ocean (see cover photo).

With clean beans, it was finally time to roast.

Coffee Roasting

The story of Cafe Don Emilio’s coffee roasters is very interesting. Since roasting machines need to be imported, the cost is extremely high. So Deiner and his father, Emilio, set off to find a more affordable option.

In another example of Costa Rican ingenuity, they had a machinist in a nearby city make them roasters out of old parts like a motorcycle’s glass headlight, a washing machine transmission, etc. The roasters may be simple, but they function as they should, and we can attest to the quality of the delicious coffee they help make.

Coffee roaster machinesHandmade coffee roasters

After learning about the coffee roasters, Deiner did a demonstration for us, explaining the difference between medium and dark roast.

Roasting Coffee Café Don EmilioSeeing dark vs. medium roastBean Selection

Even after roasting, there’s still work to be done. Any remaining shell needs to be manually removed by hand. 

They then do the coffee selection. Coffee beans have four sizes for four levels of quality. The largest is best. But if you do a honey roast, the taste will be same no matter the size.

You also check for any bad beans at this stage. Deiner told us that the cheapest coffees you can buy at stores probably contain bugs or even frog poop, which is covered up with sugar, acid, and chemicals!

Tasting a Cup

With all that knowledge about coffee, Don Emilio served us another delicious cup, which we appreciated even more the second time.

Deiner’s wife and mother then prepared a traditional lunch. It was a casado, with chicken right from the farm, rice and beans, and picadillo (a warm chopped-vegetable salad). Everything was served family style at a big table.

They topped off the tour with fresh pineapple and a shot of moonshine made from sugar cane. It tasted a bit like firewater, but we still enjoyed it.

Snacks Cafe Don EmilioMoonshine with a fresh pineapple chaserVisiting Cafe Don EmilioTour Times

Tours are offered Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Sunday at 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m.

Cost

$40 per person adults. Kids ages 9 and under are free.

Duration

About 3 hours

Cows San Luis Costa RicaCows grazing next to the coffee fieldsBooking a Tour

Tours are available with prior reservations only.

You can contact Deiner at Cafe Don Emilio directly to reserve a tour. His email is cafedonemilio8(at)gmail(dot)com

Or send them a message on their Facebook page.

Getting There

From the Costanera (Highway 34), take the road inland to San Luis. This is almost across the street from Rancho La Merced. From this point, the drive to Cafe Don Emilio will be about 30 minutes.

This road will take you up into the mountains. It starts paved and curvy but soon changes to rough dirt. When you get to a bridge, you’re close. After the bridge, the road becomes steep. We recommend a 4×4 vehicle at all times of year and definitely in rainy season (May through early December).

Road San LuisOne of the worst parts of the road. This is after you cross the bridges.

Note: We lost cell phone service shortly after turning onto the mountain road. It’s best to take screenshots of the route in advance, as there are a couple of intersections where it’s unclear which way to go.

Conclusion

Cafe Don Emilio was one of the most authentic coffee tours we’ve done in Costa Rica. By the time we left, we all felt like we were part of the family. If you’re looking to connect to the local culture, we highly recommend it.

Have a question about the Cafe Don Emilio tour? Ask us below?Looking for more information to plan your trip to the Uvita/Dominical area? Here are some posts:

The Costa Ballena: Uvita, Dominical, and Ojochal – Our guide to this region of Costa Rica. Covers other fun activities nearby like waterfalls, nature hikes, and surfing.

Uvita Waterfall: Catarata Uvita – Learn about one of the easiest-to-access waterfalls in the area.

Manuel Antonio Bee Farm: This is another authentic tour in the Quepos/Manuel Antonio area that could be done on a day trip from Uvita.

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Published on March 10, 2023 09:32

March 3, 2023

Uvita Waterfall: Catarata Uvita

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Just a few minutes from Uvita’s bustling town center is one of the area’s must-do activities. The Uvita Waterfall (Catarata Uvita) is the perfect mix of peacefulness and adventure. Here, you can relax the day away next to the river or get your adrenaline pumping by jumping off rocks and waterfalls. Some do both! In this post, we’ll share everything you need to plan a visit.

Uvita Waterfall Guide

Location

Uvita is a fast-growing town on the southern Pacific coast. It is about four hours from Costa Rica’s SJO International Airport. The popular tourist town of Manuel Antonio is about one hour and 15 minutes north.

When you arrive in Uvita, you will notice that the town is split by a two-lane highway (Route 34). Some things are located on the inland side, and some are on the coastal side.

The Uvita Waterfall is just five minutes inland from the main intersection where Banco de Costa Rica (a bank) is located. Directions are below.

Accessing the Uvita Waterfall – Two Entrances

Important: Previously, there were two entrances on two separate properties with access to the Uvita Waterfall. However, as of February 2023, a property agreement has changed things.

At the time of this writing (March 2023), only the original entrance has access to the waterfall trails.

According to the owners, this situation may change, so please leave a comment below if you have recently visited and have new information.

Catarata Uvita – The Original Entrance

The original and primary entrance for the Uvita Waterfall is next to a small restaurant called Restaurante La Catarata. This is just up the hill from the alternative entrance (see below). There are a few parking spots in front, but most people park along the road or in the dirt lot just below. There is no guard, so don’t leave anything in your car.

Catarata Uvita RestaurantThe original entrance to the waterfall

To visit the waterfall, you will pay admission of 1,500 colones per person (around $3) to the staff inside the restaurant. There are also simple bathrooms and changing rooms.  

From the restaurant, a steep set of dirt steps goes down the hillside and through the jungle. Although just a short 5-7 minute hike down, the stairs and dirt trail are not in the best condition. It can be slippery and uneven. We recommend the hike only for people in good physical condition.

Trail Catarata UvitaThe rustic trail through the forest

At the bottom of the steps, you will continue left over some rocks that go over a small stream. There is a rope you can hold onto. Be careful as the rocks can be slippery.

After the stream, you’ll have to climb on some boulders. It’s just a quick walk, though, and you will arrive at the beautiful pool below the Uvita Waterfall.  

Crossing rocks, Uvita WaterfallYou have to go over these rocks to get to the waterfallCatarata Esmeralda Uvita – Alternative Entrance

On our last visit (January 2023), there was a new entrance called Catarata Esmeralda Uvita towards the bottom of the hill. This is the first entrance you come to on the road. It had a big sign for the waterfall.

The trail here avoided the tricky steps of the first entrance. It was much flatter and followed the boardwalk along the river.

As of March 1, 2023, however, the Catarata Esmeralda Uvita property no longer has permission to use the waterfall trails.

Now, to access the waterfall from their property, you have to climb through the riverbed and along the rocks. This makes it much more challenging than the primary entrance.

The situation may change in the future, as the property owners work out the details. We will update here as needed.

Catarata Esmeralda Uvita entranceCatarata Esmeralda Uvita entrance (this is the first one you come to)

Besides the waterfall, the Catarata Esmeralda Uvita property does have access to the river and a nice swimming hole.

They also have a large butterfly garden with many species of beautiful butterflies. If you are visiting the waterfall through the first entrance, the butterfly garden is a nice second stop.

Admission to Catarata Esmeralda Uvita is 2,000 colones per person (around $3.75).

Butterfly Garden Catarata Esmeralda UvitaA butterfly in the enclosure at Catarata Esmeralda UvitaVisiting the Uvita Waterfall

When you arrive at the Uvita Waterfall, you’ll understand why it is a must-do activity. This beautiful cascade drops about 25 feet (7.5 meters) into a deep natural pool. You are surrounded by thick green jungle.

Most people visiting the waterfall sit around the edge of the pool, claiming a spot on the rocks. When conditions are right (not too much rain and current), you also can enjoy a swim in the cool mountain water.

For adventure seekers, there is a metal ladder built onto the rock face where you can climb up to the top. Some people jump off the top of the waterfall and others slide down, since the rocks are smooth.

The depth of the pool is around 10 feet (3 meters) according to a sign nearby.

Uvita Waterfall SwimmingThe large pool of the Uvita Waterfall

If you attempt a jump or slide from the top, make sure to watch someone else do it first. This way, you know where to go to be safe. If someone gets hurt, it’s not easy to get them out using the trail.

At times, the immediate area around the waterfall can get crowded. Especially during the afternoon and on weekends. If that happens, you can always make your way downstream to some of the nice swimming holes.  

River and Swimming Holes

Near the bottom of the steps at the original entrance, you can go right (instead of to the waterfall) and follow the river.

This trail has been improved over the years and now has a nice boardwalk with railings. The boardwalk follows the edge of the river, bringing you to some beautiful spots.

Boardwalk Uvita WaterfallThe boardwalk makes it easy to get to the river and other pools

Because of the natural features of the river, there are large rocks to sit on as well as some shallow and deeper pools to dip in.

Another fun spot is a jumping platform on the boardwalk. From here, you can jump about 20 feet (6 meters) into a deep pool.

When we arrived at this spot, some young kids were taking turns jumping off. This inspired Matt and Sam (age 7) to try it too. They each jumped about a half-dozen times.

Jumping into the poolJumping in!

This pool was much less busy than the waterfall area and there were only a couple of people relaxing on the rocks nearby.

During our last visit, we continued down the river along the boardwalk and ended up at the Catarata Esmeralda Uvita property. As we explained above, that is currently not possible but may open up again in the future.

Planning Your VisitHours

The Uvita Waterfall is open daily from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

Cost

Catarata Uvita Entrance: 1,500 colones per person. Children under 5 are free.

Catarata Esmeralda Uvita Entrance: 2,000 colones per person.

Driving Directions

From the Costanera Highway in Uvita (Route 34), turn onto the road for Banco de Costa Rica (BCR). Continue inland on this road (Calle Uvita) for approximately 1 km (0.6 miles) then take a left onto Calle Bejuco. There should be signs for Oxygen Jungle Villas. Continue up the dirt road for about 600 meters (0.4 miles) and the waterfall entrances will be on the right. Esmeralda is first and the original entrance, Catarata Uvita, is just a little farther up the hill.

What to Bring

We recommend sneakers or strap-on sandals for the trail, though many people wear flip-flops. If you plan to swim, water shoes are nice to have. Some of the rocks can be sharp or slimy. We also stepped on a small piece of glass.

For those spending more time at the waterfall, you can bring a picnic or eat at the restaurant at the entrance. The Uvita Beer Garden is nearby as well.

The area by the river and waterfall is shady, so sunscreen probably isn’t necessary. Insect repellent may be helpful during the rainier months. Don’t forget your towel.

Check out our daypack essentials post for some tips on what to keep in your backpack. A simple medical kit, for example, is handy if you get a scrape on the rocks.  

Pools Uvita WaterfallThe picturesque lower poolsAccessibility

The Uvita Waterfall (Cascada Uvita) is not ideal for those with limited mobility. Because the trail has uneven steps, slippery rocks, and challenging parts, we recommend it for only those who are in good physical condition.

Conclusion

If you are visiting Uvita, Dominical, or Ojochal, the Uvita Waterfall is a fun and quick activity you shouldn’t miss. Whether you spend your time swimming or jumping into the water or want to relax to the jungle and river sounds, there is something for everyone. We have always enjoyed it and hope you will too.

Have a question about visiting the Uvita Waterfall or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Whale Watching in Costa Rica – The Uvita area is one of the best places in Costa Rica to see humpback whales. Learn what months to visit and when the annual whale festival takes place.

Playa Ventanas, Puntarenas: A Beach with Caves – Just 20 minutes south of the Uvita Waterfall, this small beach has cool caves that you can walk through at low tide.

Surf Lessons in Uvita: Consistent Waves for Learning – Read about our experience taking surf lessons with our seven-year old in Uvita. 

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Published on March 03, 2023 09:55

February 24, 2023

Manuel Antonio Bee Farm

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Manuel Antonio is one of Costa Rica’s most popular destinations, and there’s no shortage of things to do. Wildlife viewing, zip lining, and other adventure tours are must-dos for many travelers. But for something truly unique, we recommend a bee farm tour. The Manuel Antonio Bee Farm offers personalized visits to its apiary. You’ll even get to wear a traditional beekeeper outfit! In this post, we’ll share our experience visiting the Manuel Antonio Bee Farm.

Manuel Antonio Bee Farm

Location

The Manuel Antonio Bee Farm, also known as Reserva Natural Tocori, is located in Villa Nueva. This is a small town in the countryside, about 30 minutes outside Quepos/Manuel Antonio. This area is not touristy and has an authentic feel.

Background

The idea for the apiary began with a question. A local named Miguel wondered why the bees were disappearing.

Miguel’s property is set on a hill in the thick rainforest. The large parcel remains wild and pristine, with the family home as the main structure. This is the perfect habitat for bees, which favor mature trees.

Bee Farm Property Villa NuevaDense jungle at the bee farm property

After watching the bee population dwindle around him, Miguel began to wonder if he could get the bees to come back to his property. He set out with some hives and put them in the jungle. Two years passed and nothing happened. No bees.

Miguel’s daughter then went to university to study tropical bees. Equipped with her knowledge, the two worked to attract bees and now have many thriving hives.

The Manuel Antonio Bee Farm Tour

Our tour started on the wooden porch of Miguel’s home. Over a cup of coffee and pan casero (homemade sweet bread), Miguel taught us all about bees. His passion became apparent within minutes.

History

We learned that Costa Rica once had about 200 species of bees. Then in the 1970s, African bees mixed with local bees in Brazil and created Africanized bees. These spread to Costa Rica. The queens eventually changed to Africanized bees and then laid hybrid eggs.

At the same time, Costa Rica was losing a lot of its bee habitat. Mature forest was being cut for agriculture and lumber operations.

Currently, there are only about 60 types of local bees, mostly stingless. Local bees are important because they pollinate crops and specific plants in the rainforest.

One of these stingless bees, a small brown bee called the mariola, produces special honey that is said to have medicinal purposes. Costa Ricans use this honey for its antibacterial properties. This holds true. When we lived near Dominical on the southern Pacific coast, we knew a local woman who would put a drop in each eye every day to prevent infection.

Mariola Bee Costa RicaThe mariola, a highly regarded local beeAbout The Hive

Pointing to some posters on the wall, Miguel then explained about the intricate hierarchy of a beehive. Inside the hive, there are three kinds of bees: drones, workers, and the queen. 99% of bees are workers.

Manuel Antonio Bee Farm PresentationLearning about bees from Miguel

Some of the most interesting facts we learned were about the queen. The queen lays an astounding 2,000-3,000 eggs per day in the dry season (December to April). This is to increase the bee population, as the majority of bees live for only about 45 days.

Queens come from fertilized eggs. Most fertilized eggs become workers. Only if the egg is fed royal jelly will it become a queen. If more than one queen hatches at the same time, they will fight to the death to see who will be queen.

The bees have different jobs in the hive, which change as they get older. They start as cleaners and stay inside to keep things tidy so that the queen has a good place to lay eggs.

After, they are nurses and responsible for feeding the babies. Then they are builders that make wax and cells. Then, guards, and finally, foragers, that bring back nectar to make honey.

Problems

Miguel ended this first part of the tour with his insight into why the bee population was dwindling worldwide. He attributes it to pesticides and radio frequencies, which make it difficult for bees to find their way back to the hive. Deforestation is also a problem, as the bees need mature, primary forest.

With all that background, we stepped onto the muddy jungle trail to hike up to the hives.

Trail bee farmThe trail to the hivesVisiting the HivesSuiting Up

After about a 10-minute walk along the wet, slippery clay, we reached a covered area. Miguel handed us each a special suit. It was a beekeeper’s suit, complete with a mesh hat. They even had smaller kid-sized ones for our young boys. We learned that Miguel’s wife had cleverly made the suits herself.

Kids in beekeeper suitsOur boys all suited up

Even though it was dry season, the sky was dark, cloudy, and threatening rain. A few sprinkles began coming down, which turned into a light rain. Miguel told us that it was better to open the hives when it wasn’t raining, as the rain can make the bees aggressive.

We waited for a while until the rain lessened then climbed the hill to reach the hives.

Manuel Antonio Bee Farm ApiaryArriving at the apiarySeeing the Hives

Excited to finally get to see the bees, we watched Miguel use his smoker on the outside of a wooden hive box. After a few moments, he gently pulled out a hive. It was covered in honeybees. They were busily working on the individual cells that made up the hive.

Bee Apiary Costa RicaMiguel carefully taking out a hive

Miguel continued to apply some smoke to keep the bees calm.

He then invited Jenn to hold the hive for a picture. With a nervous grin, she obliged. A few bees began swarming around her as the rain picked up again.

Holding a Bee Hive

Miguel took the hive back and began pointing to the different parts that we had learned about. We even saw some delicious honey dripping.

Bee Hive Manuel AntonioThe bees hard at work

Soon after that, the bees became more agitated and started attacking Matt’s camera. Miguel had warned us that they don’t like the large SLR cameras for some reason, or cell phones. We, of course, needed some photos for our website so we went for it anyway!

With bees now swarming both Jenn (with a cell phone) and Matt (with a camera), Miguel put the beehive back and we all headed down the hill.

A few bees chased us out, but we managed to get only a few stings along the way.

Tasting the Honey

Back on the porch, Miguel invited us to try some of his rich honey. One type was from early in the season. It had a very sweet, smooth flavor. The other was from the end of the season. This one was a bit bitter and more complex.

Honey from the farmMiguel cutting off some honeycomb for us to try

After, we thanked Miguel and his wife for their hospitality and for teaching us about the importance and amazing life of bees.

Planning Your Visit to the Manuel Antonio Bee FarmCost

$50 per person adults. $30 per person children under 12.

Tour Times

Tours are offered at 9:00 a.m. This is the best time to go to avoid the rain.

What’s Included

Bilingual guide, all equipment, a traditional lunch made by Miguel’s wife, coffee, and a natural juice drink. (We did the tour at 1 pm so didn’t have lunch but it is usually included.)

What to Wear/Bring

Lightweight clothing

Hiking boots or sneakers – The jungle trail can be slick so it’s best to have good gripping shoes. Keep in mind that they may get dirty.

No perfumes, insect repellents, or strong smells as it is not good for the bees.

A change of clothes and shoes for after.

Reserva Natural Tocori sign

Other Tips – Preventing Stings

Make sure your beekeeper’s suit is loose fitting and covers your wrists and ankles (i.e., it isn’t too short). This is the best way to avoid stings. Miguel will give you heavy duty gloves. If you can, wear tall socks that will provide another barrier near your ankles. We got one sting on our ankles where the pants were a little too short.

Don’t bring a camera or phone with you if you’re nervous!

Beekeeper Outfit

Booking a Tour

To book a tour, contact the Manuel Antonio Bee Farm directly by WhatsApp at (506) 8882-9632. You also can reach out to them via their Facebook page.

Getting to the Manuel Antonio Bee Farm

Head out of Manuel Antonio and get on Highway 34. Take the road across from the gas station Delta La Managua that heads inland. Follow the paved road through the town of Naranjito. Stay left at the fork. Take your next left. This is the road for the bee farm. There will be a sign. Go down and then up the hill. The farm will be on the right. The last part of the drive is not paved but fine with a regular sedan (no 4×4 needed).

GPS coordinates: 9°29’04.3″N 84°04’58.6″W

Google Map with GPS coordinates: https://goo.gl/maps/YAqAJgAPZCj7PX5S7

When you book the tour, the bee farm will send you the map location.

*Note that as of this writing (February 2023), the location on Google Maps was not correct if you search for the bee farm.

Conclusion

Being able to visit an apiary in Costa Rica was unlike anything we’ve done before. Seeing the bees in the hive, with a deeper appreciation for their complexity and importance, was something we’ll always remember.

Have a question about visiting the Manuel Antonio Bee Farm? Ask us below.Looking for more information about visiting the Manuel Antonio area? Check out these posts:

Villa Vanilla Spice Farm: This is another wonderful tour in the Manuel Antonio area. Villa Vanilla is a working farm that grows vanilla, cinnamon, and other spices.

7 Off-the-Beaten-Path Things to Do Near Manuel Antonio: Learn about other lesser known activities in the area. Includes a hike with hanging bridges and an authentic chocolate tour.

Costa Rica Rental Car Discount: To get to activities like this, you’ll need a rental car. Check out our discount through one of Costa Rica’s most reputable companies.

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Published on February 24, 2023 07:58

February 18, 2023

Eco Termales Quepos

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Most of Costa Rica’s natural hot springs are found in the mountains, close to the country’s volcanoes. However, for those traveling to the central Pacific coast, there is one rustic option between the towns of Manuel Antonio and Dominical. Eco Termales Quepos has naturally heated, warm pools set in the remote countryside. In this post, we’ll share more details so that you can plan a visit.

Hot spring pools set in jungle

Location

Eco Termales Quepos is located in Dos Bocas, near the small town of Hatillo. Although the name implies that these hot springs are in Quepos, they are actually to the south. The closest major town is Dominical, about 20 minutes away. If you’re coming from Quepos or Manuel Antonio, the drive will be about 50 minutes.

Dos Bocas is a very small community with only a handful of houses. It is accessed by a dirt road.

Getting to Dos Bocas can be an adventure at certain times of the year. Although the road has improved, it is still prone to washouts and landslides. See directions below for more about the drive.

dirt road with jungle and clouds Road to Dos BocasAbout Eco Termales Quepos

The Eco Termales Quepos property is off on its own, next to a peaceful river bordered by dense jungle.

At Eco Termales Quepos, you will not be given a white bathrobe and slippers, and have the full spa experience. This is a rustic property, run by a local family and that’s all part of its charm.

The Property

Once you turn off the main road, you will find a grassy parking lot and an open-air rancho. Here, you will pay your admission. They also offer drinks and lunch.

cars parked on grassy lot with jungle backgroundParking at Eco Termales Quepos

Off to the side is the family’s home and you will likely encounter chickens, geese, and a dog or two roaming around.

From the rancho, a flat trail enters the forest. In less than a minute, you will reach the thermal pools.

The Hot Spring Pools

Eco Termales Quepos has two hot spring pools. The upper pool is larger and divided with little rock walls into three smaller sections. This allows different groups to have a bit of space to themselves.

shallow thermal hot spring pools bordered by rocksThe upper thermal pools

The lower pool is steps away, just off the trail down to the river. This pool is also divided by small rock walls into two sections, one higher up and one lower.

A small natural pool overlooking the nearby river Enjoying the lower pools with our friends

The water in these spring-fed pools varies in temperature and each section feels a bit different. We have visited a couple of times, and on our second visit, the hottest sections just felt warm, not hot. Since the springs are naturally fed from the earth, it’s normal that they vary.

Generally, the hottest pools are the first one you come to on the trail (front section) and the top part of the lower pool. In these two areas, you can feel the warm water seeping out from under the rocks.

close up of the water inside the hot spring poolThis section is one of the warmest

Integrated into the landscape, the thermal pools have pebble bottoms and some larger stones to sit on and relax. The staff cleans the pools so that there aren’t many leaves.

The upper pool overlooks the forest, and the lower pool has a nice view of the river.

view of the river below from a natural hot spring poolThe river view from the lowest poolThe River

Another highlight of visiting Eco Termales Quepos is the scenic and refreshing river. When the current isn’t too swift, you can swim in the shallow pools that form between the smooth rocks.

There is also a section of rocks that makes a sort of slide. Just be very careful with the river currents, especially in rainy season (May through end of November) when water levels are higher. Swimming can be unsafe if there has been a lot of rain.

A river with smooth rocky banks cutting through the jungleSwimming in and relaxing next to the river

The river water is cool since it comes from the nearby mountains. But it’s a nice contrast with the warmer hot spring pools.

On hot days, locals enjoy setting up picnics next to the river, taking turns swimming.

Facilities

While Eco Termales Quepos is simple, it has everything you need.

The rancho itself has a big refrigerator case with soda and beer, and a restaurant where you can have lunch for an additional fee. Connected to the rancho are bathrooms and very simple showers with cold water.

There is also Wifi in this area, which is nice because there was no cell phone service during our last visit.

Around the property and next to the thermal pools, you will find some picnic tables in case you want to bring your own food and drinks.

A large tin roofed structure with open sidesThe Rancho where lunch and drinks are soldPlanning Your Visit to Eco Termales QueposHours

Eco Termales Quepos is open every day, including holidays, from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

Cost

Foreigners: 3,500 colones (about $7) per person adults. 2,000 colones (about $3.50) per person children under 10.

Residents or Citizens: 3,000 colones (about $6) per person adults. 1,500 colones (about $2.50) per person children under 10.

Lunch

The lunch is a traditional casado (plate of chicken, beef, or fish with rice and beans and side salads). The cost is around $10. Order before visiting the pools so they can prepare it.

Camping

Eco Termales Quepos also offers camping.

Directions

Important: If using Google or other maps, the route may not be correct. Be sure to read these directions for easier access.  

The road to access the thermal springs is dirt and may have mud and ruts in the rainy season. There are a few inclines. We recommend a 4×4 during that time.

From Dominical

Take the Costanera Highway (Route 34) north to the last entrance for Hatillo and take a right into the town. Cross the long bridge and continue for a minute. At Soda La Unica, take a left onto the dirt road. There is a sign for the hot springs. Follow for 8 km (5 miles) and enter on the right at the Aguas Termales sign. Driving time is about 20 minutes.

From Manuel Antonio or Quepos

Take the Costanera Highway (Route 34) south to the first entrance for Hatillo and take a left into the town. Cross the long bridge and continue for a minute. At Soda La Unica, take a left onto the dirt road. There is a sign for the hot springs. Follow for 8 km (5 miles) and enter on the right at the Aguas Termales sign. Driving time is about 50 minutes.

A gravel road entranceThis is the turnoff for Dos Bocas from the main road in HatilloConclusion

If you are looking to soak in some natural springs but in an off-the-beaten path type of way, Eco Termales Quepos is perfect for you. We have taken both Matt’s parents and some friends to these charming springs and everyone always loves them.

Have a question about visiting Eco Termales Quepos or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below. Looking for more fun activities near Dominical or Manuel Antonio? Check out these posts:

Reptilandia Dominical: Snakes, Turtles, Crocs, and More – This reptile exhibit is a hidden favorite. There are dozens of species of snakes and turtles and beautiful gardens to enjoy as well.

7 Off-the-Beaten-Path Things to Do Near Manuel Antonio – These activities are less crowded than the national park or beaches.

8 Things to Do in Dominical – More activities around the Dominical area, like waterfalls, caves, and wildlife facilities.

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Published on February 18, 2023 13:20