Matthew Houde's Blog, page 7

Tortuguero Canals by Boat

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Many years ago, we paddled through Tortuguero National Park’s waterway canals in a tipsy canoe. Gliding through the wetlands, we snuck up on birds, river turtles, and caimans. On our most recent visit to Tortuguero, our situation had changed. This time, with two little boys in tow, we opted for a more stable boat tour. We thought we wouldn’t see as much wildlife but were pleasantly surprised. In this post, we’ll share our experience exploring the Tortuguero canals by boat.

Background & Location

Tortuguero is a small town on Costa Rica’s northern Caribbean coast. Surrounded by vast wetlands and a long stretch of beach, it is a difficult-to-access wildlife haven.

When in Tortuguero, one of the most popular activities to do is visit Tortuguero National Park. While the park does have some land trails and turtle-nesting beaches, a highlight for nearly everyone is a tour of the park’s waterway canals.

A local guide association in Tortuguero village offers canoe and kayak tours, but like we mentioned, these weren’t right for our family.

Tortuguero Canals Boat Tour

Our boat tour started at Tortuga Lodge where we were staying. The hotel had arranged it for us in advance, and our guide, Fabian, was waiting for us at the reception. Many other lodges have their own boats and offer these tours as well.

Donning life jackets, our family stepped into the waiting boat. Our captain, Johan, slowly motored away from the dock.   

First Stop – Tortuguero National Park

Just 10 minutes down the wide canal, we pulled up to the dock at Tortuguero National Park. This is the first stop for everyone visiting the park’s waterways. Since the canals are part of the national park, you have to stop here to purchase park tickets.

While our guide hopped out and bought our tickets from the ranger, we walked up a spiral stairway to a viewing tower. 

The river view from the tower at the national park

Perched from high above we could see how vast the wetlands were. They stretched as far as the eye could see.

Tortuguero National Park is massive, protecting over 190,000 acres (76,937 hectares). Amazingly only one percent is used for tourism and the rest is kept completely wild.

The Main Canals

After loading back into the small motorboat, our guide, Fabian, began to explain more about the park.

He told us how it is a very important ecosystem for migratory birds. These birds either spend their winters in Costa Rica or stop to rest and eat on their way to other countries.

As we motored swiftly down the wide canal, Fabian told us that the tall trees around us were great for spotting predatory birds. There was even a recent sighting, he said, of a Crested Eagle. This bird is one of the largest eagles and very rare. It can have a wingspan of more than five feet (1.5 meters). 

As we rode, we noticed that the canals around Tortuguero are sort of like roads. Since the town has no paved roads, boats travel up and down these waterways to get to the mainland and other villages. There are even signs at intersections, pointing the way. 

One of the main (wide) canals

We didn’t see a whole lot of wildlife along this part of the canal, aside from several heron species, vultures, and some iguanas. It was quite beautiful, however, with all the tall trees and green vegetation along the banks.

Narrow Canals and Inlets

The next portion of our tour navigated through some narrower passageways. We immediately began to see more along the banks.

Right in front of the boat was a family of howler monkeys, eating fruits and leaves from a tree. Johan stopped the boat near them so that we could take pictures and get a closer look through binoculars.

Howler monkey

After a few minutes we continued, passing some interesting trees. One had a large brown fruit or seed pod. Our guide explained that it was called a provision tree because the leaves and flowers could be eaten. We also learned later that it is also called a money tree, the same type that is kept as a common houseplant.

We continued slowly, the banks of the canal getting closer and closer to the boat. We really felt like we were in the jungle now.

Thick jungle all around

This part of the tour was the best for wildlife viewing. We had thought that only kayaks and canoes could go so deep into the mangroves, but Johan navigated the boat carefully and quietly.

Wildlife Highlights Reptiles

Some of the wildlife we came across included an emerald basilisk lizard, known for its ability to run across the surface of the water. There was also a shy river turtle that slipped off a log under the water.

Another reptile we spotted was a caiman, a smaller species of crocodile that is the most common type in the Tortuguero canals. This one was only about three feet (one meter) long, but they can get much bigger. As we approached, it watched us carefully with its bright orange eyes. 

A caiman (relative of crocodile)Birds

For birds, we were lucky to spot a male and female Great Curassow. They were hiding in the thick tree roots. Fabian told us that these turkey-sized birds indicate a healthy ecosystem since they prefer undisturbed environments.

We also sat and watched a Crowned Woodnymph hummingbird dart between flowers on the bank. This hummingbird had brilliant green, blue, and purple feathers that are almost iridescent. Unfortunately, it was too quick for our camera.  

Later, we did get some nicer camera shots of a Northern Jacana and Green Heron.

A Northern Jacana along the canal edgeA Green Heron, one of several heron species you can see in TortugueroSpider Monkeys

Probably the most memorable wildlife encounter on this tour were the spider monkeys. These are not that common to see in Costa Rica. They are hard to spot because they move quickly through the tall trees. There are also fewer of them.

Fortunately for us, we came across an entire family. And three of them were a bit curious and came down to look at us, letting us get a closer glimpse of them in the process.

Spider monkey

While we watched them effortlessly swing around the branches, Fabian told us a little more about them.

One cool fact was that they have the strongest prehensile tail of all mammals. We could actually see them using their tails a lot as they moved. He also said that they have evolved to have no thumb on their hand. This was so that they can swing better on the branches.

Booking a Tortuguero Canal Boat Tour

Most eco-lodges in Tortuguero offer canal boat tours with their packages. We stayed at the Tortuga Lodge, which not only had a great location and excellent food, but also very knowledgeable guides. If you are staying at a different lodge, they will likely offer a similar experience.

For those staying in Tortuguero village, there are a few smaller tour operators who offer boat tours. Kayak and canoe tours are also very popular through the guide association. It is located near the Almond Tree Dock, the main dock in town.

Conclusion

We were pleasantly surprised with the amazing wildlife we saw on the Tortuguero canal boat tour. Our guide was really knowledgeable and passionate to share everything that we saw. This helped keep both the kids and parents engaged and excited. If you are in Tortuguero, we’d highly recommend it.

Have a question about the Tortuguero canal boat tour? Leave a comment below. Already been? Share what you saw.  Looking for more information on Tortuguero? Check out these posts:

Getting to Tortuguero – Our guide on the best ways to access Tortuguero. Includes public boat schedules.

Cerro Tortuguero – This is a fun hike near Tortuguero. A short trail leads you to a forested stairway and eventually an amazing viewpoint.

Tortuguero Sea Turtle Nesting Tour – Another popular guided tour that happens at night. If you are lucky, you’ll witness mother sea turtles laying their eggs on Tortuguero’s beaches.

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Jaco Street Art Tour

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Walking in Jaco, you’ll see a lot of restaurants, souvenir shops, and stores clustered together along the main street near the beach. But if you take a closer look at some of the buildings and alleys, you’ll discover beauty hidden among the somewhat urban landscape. Scattered throughout town are many colorful murals. Some depict Costa Rica’s beautiful scenery, while others convey a specific artist’s vision. In this post, we’ll tell you about our experience taking the Jaco Street Art Tour.

Meeting Our Guide

We met our guide, Josue, on the northern end of town near the central park. Wearing a tall straw hat, he greeted us with a big smile and told us he would be showing us some of the artwork in Jaco today.

Josue, a local from the area, had not been formally trained in art but was rather self-taught. His passion and knowledge of the subject quickly became apparent.

First, he brought us over to a mural on the edge of the park. There, he asked us about our interest in art and our thoughts in general.

For him, art is a reminder of what is beautiful in life. He believes art breaks up the grind of the every day, and that street art, in particular, helps us find meaning in public places.

Seeing the MuralsCacique Garabito

This first mural, painted on the side of an old building, depicted Cacique Garabito who was king of the area during the time of the Conquerors.

Cacique Garabito ruled over the Huetar indigenous people in the 16th century. He was a national hero for his fierce efforts against the Spaniards when they were trying to conquer the territory. Today, the canton (county) where Jaco is located is named Garabito in his honor.

Mural to commemorate Cacique GarabitoPura Vida

From the park, we walked a couple of blocks to a parking lot sandwiched between a real estate office and another small building.

Gazing out toward the street were three faces that had been painted on the long concrete wall backing the lot. They were blue and orange and somewhat mysterious. Josue explained that this mural had been painted in 2016 by two artists from Europe named Dourone.

The piece is called Pura Vida, which is a famous phrase in Costa Rica. It translates to “pure life,” but is used as a greeting, goodbye, or just to say that something is great.

Dourone’s “Pura Vida”GATS PTV

On the side of an adjacent container building was a small, but powerful, mural from the street artist, GATS PTV, from New York City.

We discussed this artist who is known for secretly painting murals or doing other installations in obscure places. He is known for making a man’s face with a beard. The beard is always a little different. The one we were looking at resembled an octopus. Josue told us GATS PTV’s idea is to graffiti against the system.

GATS PTVSmall Murals Depicting Local History

After seeing these highlights, Josue brought us down a side road near the beach. Here, we saw a small mural on the side of a local glass company. They had someone make this simple mural that sort of copied Costa Rica’s national emblem. It showed Costa Rica’s three mountain ranges. It also depicted the original explorers, which can be seen in the boat bearing the Costa Rica flag.

Mural on a glass maker’s building

Josue taught us a little about the origins of the area. Interestingly, the first settlers of Jaco were from Chiriqui, Panama. Historically, this region continuing south along the Pacific coast had been exploited for its abundance of pearls.

Farther down the road was a huge new building for condos going up along the beach. Next to it was an old moss-covered concrete wall with a mural of two girls. They were from Chiriqui. Josue didn’t know what would happen to the mural after the construction was over, but he hoped they would keep it.

Footprint of the Jaguar

Back on the main strip, we stopped near the art store, Tico Pod.

Staring back from the concrete wall were two intense green eyes. Vivid reds, yellows, and greens formed the face of a jaguar. The mural played with light and dark, with the center of the face being lush, green rainforest.

The artist of this piece, Melvin González Rojas (Kamel), was from the Boruca indigenous group that lives in southern Costa Rica. The Boruca are famous for their colorful hand-carved masks, which depict nature scenes. This indigenous group believes that they are part of nature, not separate from it, and this comes through in their artwork.

Kamel signs his pieces, KuraDenKa, which translates to “footprint of the jaguar.”

This piece, along with many other murals in Jaco, was commissioned by a community initiative called Artify Jaco. Their goal is to beautify Jaco through art.

Kamel’s jaguar muralMoon Dance and Legacy

Probably the most spectacular murals for us were near the Mas X Menos grocery store.

The first, called Moon Dance, was the face of a puma (see cover photo, above). The mural was striking, due to its large size and colorful, intricate pattern. This piece was from a Mexican street artist named Farid Rueda.

On the backside of the parking lot was another large mural called Legacy. This was painted by Jade Rivera, a Peruvian artist, in 2017.

It depicts two boys, one wearing a traditional Boruca mask and another watching. Touching the first boy’s head is a man in a mask wearing a white robe. There are also references to Costa Rican nature, like a large blue jean poison dart frog, blue morpho butterfly, and toucan. We discussed among ourselves the meaning of this sober piece. Perhaps it was depicting a rite of passage.

Legacy by Jade RiveraEnding the Tour

After showing us a few more interesting murals around town, we ended at the Green Room Café for a cold drink. It was great getting to know Josue and gaining a greater appreciation for the art we had seen around Jaco.

Booking a Tour

To book a tour, you can reach out to Josue directly through his website or use his Trip Advisor page.

Josue in front of Fio Silva’s gorgeous muralCost and Duration

$30 per person for the walking tour (1.5-2 hours).

He also offers a bike tour, which lets you cover more ground, for $50 per person (3-4 hours).

Conclusion

We have been living in the Jaco area for a while now and have seen many of the murals around town, but were still surprised to learn that Jaco has 35 pieces of street art and counting. If you include graffiti, there are more than 60. These really bring life to this busy surf town with their vibrant colors. If you’re planning to visit the Jaco area, we highly recommend the Street Art Tour to see some of these works for yourself and learn more about the area and Costa Rica in general.

Have a question about the Jaco Street Art Tour? Ask us below.Looking for more information to plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Tortuga Island Catamaran-Snorkel Tour: This is another fun activity in the Jaco area that will take you to the white-sand Tortuga Island.

La Mona Golosa: An Artisanal Chocolate Tour Near Jaco – This off-the-beaten path tour will give you a whole new appreciation for where chocolate comes from.

Jaco Restaurant Guide: Looking for restaurant recommendations for your trip? This post gives some of our favorites.

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Ara Manzanillo: A Great Green Macaw Tour

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Not long ago, the future did not look bright for Great Green Macaws. The global population of these magnificent parrots had dwindled to less than 1,000. Only a few dozen breeding pairs remained in Costa Rica. But today, Great Greens are making a comeback, and it’s largely due to the efforts of the Ara Manzanillo. In this post, we’ll share how this dedicated conservation group is making a difference and how you can visit their facility to see the magic for yourself.  

Background

We first visited the Ara Manzanillo project over ten years ago, but their efforts started even before that. Prior to formally becoming an established organization in 2010, a few conservationists concerned about Great Green Macaws were trying to help.

The population of these birds had been decimated because of the illegal pet trade and habitat loss. In the 1990s, with a handful of confiscated and rehabilitated Great Green Macaws, an idea was born: to take these birds, try to breed them, and release the babies back into the wild.  

Ara Manzanilla Today

While the project is continuously evolving, the Ara Manzanillo organization has made great strides.

Over 100 Great Green Macaws from their facility now fly freely in the forest and along the beaches of Costa Rica’s southern Caribbean coast. That’s around 10% of the global population.

The Secrets to SuccessGreat Green Macaw Breeding Program

In the early days of the program, there weren’t many Great Green Macaws to reintroduce into the wild. But a partner program that we also had visited, called the Macaw Recovery Network (formerly the Ara Project), had a solution.

At a facility on Costa Rica’s Pacific coast, they bred mature pairs of Great Green Macaws and carefully raised the baby chicks. Once mature enough, these parrots were transported across the country to their new home in Manzanillo.

After teaching the birds to eat wild fruits like beach almonds, the young macaws were soft released into the wild. This meant that while they would be free to go, they also could come back each day for supplemental feeding, if they wanted.

In total, 45 Great Green Macaws were brought to Ara Manzanillo and released.     

Habitat Restoration

An important part of the release program was to make sure the Great Green Macaws had enough natural habitat to survive.

The site in Manzanillo was chosen because it is centered between protected areas and national parks. These natural spaces have essential habitat and food for the birds. It was, in fact, their natural habitat in the past, before their numbers diminished.

Platform overlooking the Ara Manzanillo facility

A key native species in the area is a tree called the mountain almond. The fruit of this tree is the favorite food of the green macaws, and it is also their most favorable tree for nesting. Ara Manzanillo has about 12 of these mature trees on their property.  

A giant mountain almond tree

The mountain almond tree is very rare in other parts of Costa Rica. It was harvested almost to extinction because of its desirable lumber. The durable wood is said to take decades to rot and is naturally insect resistant.

Part of Ara Manzanillo’s efforts go towards preserving and replanting this important tree for future generations of parrots.

Nesting Boxes

With a large number of Great Green Macaws from the original breeding program and a healthy forest surrounding the facility, the logical next step for the Ara Manzanillo project was to get these birds breeding by themselves in the wild.

Much like their soft release program with supplemental feeding, the birds just needed a little nudge in the right direction. 

In 2016, Ara Manzanillo began to make special nesting boxes out of old plastic drums and wood. These were hung strategically near the facility in some of the mountain almond trees. After some trial and error, the boxes worked.

Nesting Boxes

In the first year, a single chick successfully made it. The following year there were nine. Now with more nesting boxes, about 9-12 chicks per year hatch and join the flock.

It’s a slow process but as of 2023, more than 60 Great Green Macaw chicks have been born and fledged. 

Education and Public Outreach

To keep this new population of Great Green Macaw’s safe, local support has been key. Ara Manzanillo staff does a lot of public outreach.

They are continuously teaching locals, especially at schools, about the impact of the illegal pet trade, poaching, and habitat loss.

Over the years, Ara Manzanillo has engrained themselves in the community and everyone knows who to call if a Green Macaw is found out of place or injured.

Visiting Ara Manzanillo

One amazing way to support the work of Ara Manzanillo is to visit them. Their 50-hectare (123-acre) property is located just south of Puerto Viejo on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast.

Each afternoon, they allow visitors to come, learn about the project, and see the birds visit the supplemental feeders.

During the tour, you get to see the macaws come to the supplemental feeders.

While some birds have moved away from the facility to start their own lives, Ara Manzanillo remains a gathering place for a large group of the original birds. During the tour, feeders filled with local seeds and fruits are raised into the trees.

From the viewing platform on the forested hill, streaks of green, blue, and red feathers go from tree to tree. Loud squawks ring out and wings flap. With so many birds in one place, you are guaranteed to get a good view or that perfect shot with your camera. 

Reservations can be made through the Ara Manzanillo website. The cost is $20 per person. Children under 12 are free. The tour takes about one hour.

If you are unable to visit the project personally, you can follow their progress on social media channels and donate to their efforts.

Conclusion

Visiting the Ara Manzanillo project for the second time in a decade was a memorable and hopeful experience. It was great to see the healthy population of Great Green Macaws flourish and start using the nearby nesting boxes. And this time, we were able to share it with our kids who will hopefully see many more of these special birds in the wild.

Have a question about visiting Ara Manzanillo? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca: Caribbean Cool in Costa Rica – Our destination guide for the area, including hotels, restaurants, and activities.

Choosing Sustainable Travel: Costa Rica’s Sustainable Tourism Program – Learn about this special rating system as well as what to look for when choosing accommodations and activities.

Costa Rica’s Caribbean Coast: Regional Snapshot – Explore what Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast has to offer and learn about the weather, landscape, and more.

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Tortuguero Sea Turtle Nesting Tour

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Costa Rica’s northern Caribbean coast is famous for its nesting sea turtles. These gentle sea dwellers come to shore secretly at night to lay their eggs, then vanish back into the turbulent ocean before dawn. When visiting Tortuguero, it’s possible to witness this magical event. In this post, we’ll tell you what it’s like to go on a sea turtle nesting tour and why it’s so important that you do. 

Background

Tortuguero is a remote destination along Costa Rica’s northern Caribbean coast. There are no roads since the landscape is swampy and wet. Instead, you must arrive by boat or small plane.

Getting around by boat in Tortuguero

A handful of different turtle species lay their eggs on Tortuguero’s beaches. The most abundant is the Atlantic green sea turtle, which appears frequently from July through October. Less common are giant leatherback sea turtles, which arrive sporadically from March through May. One other turtle species, the hawksbill, is occasionally seen as well.

In the Face of Danger

With little to no development, the long, blackish sand beaches of Tortuguero appear to be a safe place for nesting turtles. However, there are several dangers these creatures face.

The biggest threat is poachers, who steal the turtle eggs. Sometimes they even kill the defenseless turtles in the process. The illegal eggs are sold to unscrupulous restaurants or street vendors. Some people think these eggs are an aphrodisiac and will pay a premium for them.

Other dangers the turtles face are wild animals. Jaguars prowl the most remote beaches during nesting season. A turtle is an easy meal for these big cats. Large birds like tiger herons or hawks also often prey on the hatching babies before they can reach the sea.

A tiger heron raiding turtle nests

A slower but looming threat is climate change. A turtle’s sex is determined by nest temperature. Rising global temps are causing most hatchlings to be female. This will cause breeding problems for future generations.

Protection Through Tourism

A ray of hope for the turtles comes from something unexpected, tourism. Tortuguero’s economy depends on it. With tourists, come jobs in restaurants, hotels, transportation, tours, and more.

Local guides, who grew up with fathers, uncles, friends, or whom themselves were once poachers, can now make a living in other industries.

Just visiting Tortuguero gives the turtles more of a chance. And while it may seem counterintuitive, the more people who come to the area, the more it is protected.

Turtle Nesting Tour – Our ExperienceSetting Out

Our tour started at the dock of our hotel where we loaded into a small boat and set off across the canal. It was already dark out, and the water was calm and glassy. We soon landed on the opposite bank and stepped onto the shore.

Here, our guide led us by flashlight across the Tortuguero airstrip, where small planes land during the day. Just on the other side, through some scraggly palm trees, was the beach. We could hear the powerful waves and feel a steady breeze.

The beach trail

Our guide told us that we’d need to keep all flashlights off and not use our cell phones, cameras with flashes, or any other lights. Turtles that see lights often become disoriented and turn back to the sea, he said, and won’t lay their eggs.

Waiting and Wondering

Our group of six stood in the dark next to our guide. We didn’t really know what was happening. Other small groups stood near us, but it was completely black and we could barely make out the shadows of people, driftwood logs, and the ocean.

Soon our guide began to explain in a quiet voice. He told us that the Tortuguero National Park rangers are the ones who oversee and control the turtle viewing experience.

The rangers search the beach for nesting turtles then give each local guide a turn to witness the event with their group.

Continuing to wait, we learned that the six-mile-long beach is divided into five sectors. Each sector has 12 trails/access points. Up to 18 rangers patrol these areas. When they find a turtle beginning to nest, they communicate with the guides and share the location. But they spread everyone out to lower the impact.

Just the Right Moment

We soon found that patience was key for a turtle nesting tour in Tortuguero. The mother turtle must feel comfortable and remain undisturbed during the process. The rangers and guides are strict and serious about protecting them.

Our guide explained that the nesting mother must first dig a hole in the sand. The hole must be at least 30 cm (12 inches) deep. This depth is the same length as her back flipper, which she uses to measure. This is hard work and can take the mother some time.

Once the hole is complete, she will start to lay her eggs. Only at this point can tourists approach. It’s at this time, our guide said, that the mother goes into a sort of trance. She is in this trance, oblivious to her surroundings, until all 100 or so eggs are laid. This process takes 20-30 minutes, so during that time, groups can take turns watching her.

Our guide told us that we were just steps away from a turtle that was almost ready.

Counting Eggs

Just minutes later, we were given the go ahead—it was our turn.

Excitedly, we stepped softly through the sand to the nesting mother. Our guide’s red flashlight helped us find her. She was bigger than we expected at almost four feet (1.2 meters) long! The guide told us to position ourselves around the back of the turtle, so we’d have a view of the nest and eggs.

Under the red glow of our guide’s light, we watched large white eggs drop from the mother. Our guide instructed us to count the round eggs as they were released. Each one came slowly, with pauses in between. Our guide helped us count ten eggs (about five minutes), then we were told to move out of the way for the next group to see.

We got to see the process and count two more times before the mother was almost finished. Then the groups were led away so that she could cover her hole with sand and return to the ocean.

A Fond Farewell

As we walked away from the tired mother, our guide explained the rest of the process. The turtle would cover the eggs with sand using her flippers, then they would incubate for roughly 60 days. The hatchlings would then dig their way out and go directly to the sea.

He asked if we wanted to see the process again and wait for another mother to be ready. While the first time was exhilarating, we chose to call it a night and let the process take place without us. We felt confident that the turtle was not disturbed by us; we didn’t want to overstep our boundaries. 

Tortuguero Beach during the dayHatchlings

As we boated back to the hotel, our guide encouraged us to return the next morning to look for baby turtles. Earlier nests were hatching daily, and the chances were good, he said.

After an early tour of the canals the next day, we walked the beach for several miles. It was amazing to see in the daylight how many holes had been dug by the turtles. There were indentations everywhere, even in odd places along the tree line!

Old turtle tracks leading to a nest

It was later in the morning than our had guide suggested, but we did find a few nests that had started to hatch. The turtles were still part way in their shells, but we could see their tiny flippers poking out from below the surface of the sand.

Hatchings getting ready to emergeConclusion

We were unsure what to expect on the turtle nesting tour in Tortuguero. We had seen olive ridley turtles nesting in Ostional and felt like we were intruding on a natural process there. But here in Tortuguero, we were really impressed at the efforts to not only protect the turtles from our influence but also how the magical event was shared as an educational and conservation lesson. After all, while the turtles may not know it, each tourist who visits them helps to ensure their safety and that of their hatchlings for generations to come.

Have a question about turtle nesting tours in Tortuguero or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information on Tortuguero? Check out these posts:

Cerro Tortuguero Hike and Viewpoint – This short hike in Tortuguero takes you through beautiful rainforest and up to an expansive viewpoint.

Getting to Tortuguero – Getting to Tortuguero is a little complicated but worth the effort.

Tortuguero National Park – In this article, we explain about the park’s land and waterway trails.

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Lake Arenal Sunset Cruise: Wine, Cheese & Views

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Most people visiting La Fortuna are interested in viewing the famous Arenal Volcano. Hiking the old lava flows near the base is one great way to see the volcano. But if you’re looking for a more leisurely experience, try a sunset boat cruise. In this post, we’ll tell you about our experience taking a Lake Arenal sunset cruise.

Background

Lake Arenal is located in the northern highlands of Costa Rica. The closest towns are the popular tourist destination of La Fortuna and the lesser known town of Nuevo Arenal.

Boat cruises along Lake Arenal leave from the eastern side of the lake, near the dam. La Fortuna downtown is about 20 minutes from here, while Nuevo Arenal is about 40 minutes away. Here is a link to Google Maps with the location of the dam and boat launch. Keep in mind that you need prior reservations for the tour.

Lake Arenal Sunset CruiseMeeting Our Guides

We met our guides at the boat launch around 4:30 in the afternoon. Sunset is around 5:45 p.m. in Costa Rica year-round so the idea of the tour is to cruise around the lake a bit then catch sunset at the end.

Coming from Nuevo Arenal, we drove through some light rain showers, but it mostly cleared up by the time we arrived. The weather changes very quickly on the lake so this was typical.

We boarded the sturdy boat with our two young kids in tow. We were soon greeted by Jose, also known as Pico. Jose was a local who grew up in the Arenal area. He introduced us to our captain, nicknamed Kalua. She gave us kind wave, welcoming us aboard, as we took our seats.

Loading onto the boatA History Lesson

We gently pulled off the shore and motored south. Lake Arenal is Costa Rica’s largest lake, spanning about 33 square miles (85 sq. km), so there was a lot to explore.

The captain, Kalua, getting the tour started

Jose began to tell us about the area and how the lake came about.

Lake Arenal is actually a manmade lake. In the late 1970s, the Costa Rican government built a hydroelectric dam, flooding a much smaller natural lake in the same location. Today, this dam produces much of Costa Rica’s electricity.

We also learned some of the history of the mighty Arenal Volcano. With the volcano peeking through the clouds in the distance, Jose recounted stories that his parents and grandparents had told him about the big eruption in 1968.

Previously, Arenal Volcano had been dormant. Then on July 29, 1968, after years of silence, it suddenly came alive. Nearby farms and homes became flooded with lava. The volcano spewed giant rocks and engulfed the surrounding land with thick layers of smoke and ash. Almost 100 people living in nearby towns died from the three-day event.

Up until 2010, the volcano was still active, with minor lava flows and smoke, but it hasn’t had any large explosions since 1968. Today, its activity is significantly diminished, though you can sometimes see a puff of smoke from the top.

Cruising the Lake

With some background on our surroundings, Jose left us alone to take in the views.

Even with more rain falling, the scenery was beautiful. Thick rainforest lined the banks of the lake. A Neotropic cormorant sat perched on a dead tree branch partially submerged in the water.

A Neotropic cormorant

The rain started to pick up some more, but we barely noticed. Kalua started going faster, whisking us to a drier spot. Kalua was from the lake area, born and raised, so knew exactly where to take people based on the weather. On Lake Arenal, the weather can change from one moment to the next. It’s even common for it to be raining on one side but not on the other.

Escaping the rain

As we were gazing at the green shoreline, all of a sudden the boat came to a stop. Right in front of us was Arenal Volcano. Although there were still some clouds, we had a nice view of its giant base.

Arenal Volcano with the top covered in cloudsWine and Cheese

Jose and Kalua quickly set up a table at the front of the boat facing the volcano. They put out an amazing spread for us. We enjoyed a delicious white wine from Argentina alongside some charcuterie boards. The kids and adults alike devoured the gorgeous plates of cheese, meats, nuts, hummus, and dips.

Jose getting our wine and snacks readyHeading Back

Just as we were finishing our glasses of wine and snacks, the rain started harder and we headed back. It was right around sunset, but because of the weather, we wouldn’t be getting much of a sunset view that day. Still, it was a wonderful tour and we would definitely do it again.

What Arenal Volcano looks like on a clear dayPlanning A Lake Arenal Sunset CruiseCost

Shared Tour (12 people max): $94 per person adults, $62 per person children ages 4-11. Rates plus 13% tax. Free for children under 4.

Private Tour (only your family/group): $135 per person adults, $54 per person children ages 4-11. Rates plus 13% tax. Free for children under 4.

Offered

4:00 p.m. daily

Duration

2.5 hours (includes transportation to the lake)

Includes

Round-trip transportation from your hotel or vacation rental in La Fortuna, bilingual naturalist guide, wine and cheese, and non-alcoholic drinks.

Usually, the tour company serves only the cheese/meat board. They can also offer hummus/guacamole/bean dip for vegetarians.

Best Times to Go

The best time of year to catch sunset is February to May when the weather is typically drier. June to September is usually decent as well. Keep in mind that the weather in Arenal can be wet and unpredictable any time of year. The tour is still nice, though, even in less than optimum conditions like we had. The tour company has plastic windows that they can pull down to cover the sides of the boat in case of heavy rain.

Booking a Tour

There are different boats at the dam that offer tours. If you’d like to go through the company that we used, we’d be happy to help with the arrangements. Just send us an email to bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com with: (1) the number of people in your party (adults and children), (2) your preferred date, (3) your hotel or vacation rental location if you’d like transportation. Booking through us costs the same and helps support our website!

Lush greenery all around the lakeConclusion

We have done a lot of activities in Costa Rica and the sunset cruise on Lake Arenal was a memorable experience. Sipping delicious wine from the bow of a boat overlooking a volcano is something special. We highly recommend this tour if you’re visiting the Arenal area.

Have you taken a boat cruise on Lake Arenal or do you have a question about the tour? Leave a comment below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

Cano Negro: A Wildlife Boat Tour on the Rio Frio – This is one of the best boat tours to see wildlife in Costa Rica. You can see several types of monkeys, crocodiles, sloths, and many birds in this remote ecosystem near the Nicaragua border.

North Fields Café: A Delicious Coffee and Chocolate Tour in La Fortuna – This short tour at a small coffee farm is a great introduction into where coffee and chocolate come from.

Why to Get Travel Insurance When Visiting Costa Rica: Unless your health insurance covers you abroad, it’s a good idea to get travel insurance for your trip.

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Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve: Uncrowded Nature

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Monteverde has several nature reserves where you can hike through lush cloud forest. There’s the popular Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, the Curi Cancha Reserve, and the Children’s Eternal Rainforest. Another option, the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve, is probably the least visited, but still has a lot to offer. In this post, we’ll explain what to expect on the trails at the Santa Elena Reserve and why this spot is so good for birdwatching and quiet nature discovery.

Location

Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve (Reserva Bosque Nuboso Santa Elena) is located in Monteverde in the high altitude mountains. Monteverde is best known for its cloud forests and has been a popular ecotourism destination for many years.

Interestingly, Monteverde is located at the Continental Divide, the point where the Caribbean and Pacific slopes meet. While the Monteverde Reserve and Curi Cancha Reserve are on the Pacific side, the Santa Elena Reserve is just over the Continental Divide on the Caribbean slope.

Access

The Santa Elena Reserve is located about 20 minutes from downtown Santa Elena. To get there, you’ll take the side road leading to Selvatura Park and Treetopia Park (formerly Sky Adventures). This dirt road climbs up the mountain, giving the Santa Elena Reserve a slightly higher elevation than the other reserves in the area.

The road is steep in places with many potholes so a 4×4 vehicle is best, especially in rainy season (May through November). However, many people make the drive in a regular sedan.

Entrance to the ReserveBackground

Unlike most national parks and reserves in Costa Rica, which are run by the government, Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve is administered by the local high school. In 1992, a non-profit organization called Youth Challenge International collaborated with the Costa Rican government and the community of Santa Elena to start this project.

Today, the Santa Elena Reserve consists of 766 acres (310 hectares). About 8 miles (13 km) of trail passes through this pristine swath of cloud forest in different loops. Trail options range from a long 7.4 miles (12 km) for those looking for a good hike to a short 0.9 miles (1.4 km) for those interested in an easier walk.

Here is a picture of the trail map.

Our Hike at Santa Elena Reserve

We had already been to Santa Elena Reserve before and had done one of the longer trails, but on this visit, we had our two young kids with us. That meant doing one of the shorter trails. Luckily, our friend Esteban, a local guide from Monteverde, was with us and knew where to go. He brought along his son (age 10). He was dressed in guide attire as well and carried along binoculars.

Esteban led us onto the Youth Challenge Trail. He said that this would give us a good feel for the cloud forest and take us to the observation tower.

Our guide, EstebanFirst Wildlife Encounters

We started on the paved path, Esteban leading the way with his spotting scope. We hadn’t even been walking for five minutes yet and Esteban stopped to show us something.

A bird was sitting on a nest in a short tree right beside the trail. It was a Scaled antpitta. This type of bird is known to follow army ants. Army ants come through the forest in long, organized lines (hence the name army) to eat other types of ants, wasps, and other insects. The Scaled antpitta follows the army ants and eats any bugs that are flushed out along the way.

This mother bird was sitting patiently on the nest while we took a close up look at it through the scope from a distance. Esteban snapped some great photos with our phones and the scope.

Close up through the scope of the nesting bird 

Just past the nest, Esteban stopped again. This time it was to show us a Mexican hairy dwarf porcupine up in a tree. This porcupine species is one of the few that lives in trees. Although it was far away, we could see it well with the scope. It was curled up, sleeping, but we could still make out its spikes and prehensile tail.

Esteban explained that animals are harder to see at the Santa Elena Reserve in general, it is better for birding, so we felt fortunate to have seen the porcupine.

A Mexican hairy dwarf porcupine through the scopeEnvironment

The trails converged and soon turned to well-maintained gravel.

All around us were grand trees reaching towards the sun with short brushy trees and plants taking up every inch of the forest floor. The landscape was covered in layers of green. Moss and lichen grew on top of branches and leaves because of all the moisture in the air. The Monteverde area receives a lot of rain year-round and is often misty. This helps keep the foliage lush and green.

Trail through the thick cloud forest

One standout tree we saw was a towering milk tree. Our guide told us that it was about 400 years old!

The giant milk tree covered in plants and vines (yos in Spanish)More Birds and Other Sightings

As we continued along the trail, Esteban watched and listened for more birds. We were able to spot a number of them, including various woodcreepers, a Tufted Flycatcher, Collared Redstart, Common chlorospingus, and a Costa Rican warbler (endemic). Esteban got out his phone to let us hear some of the birds’ calls.

A Common Bush Tanager (Common chlorospingus)

We also saw some other interesting wildlife like a glass winged butterfly with see-through wings, a giant millipede, and some caterpillars.

Our youngest son who loves flowers spotted a small red flower just off the trail. Esteban explained that this was called a Santa’s boot due to the boot-like shape. It is related to African violets.

Santa’s Boot flowerObservation Tower

Soon we reached one of the highlights of the hike: the observation tower. This was recently built and really adds to the experience.

We climbed the few sets of stairs to the top. From high up above the tree line, we got a panoramic view of the surrounding mountain range and forest. It was fairly clear that day, so we could even catch faraway glimpses of Arenal Volcano in between the fast-moving clouds!

View from the Observation Tower. The base of Arenal Volcano is in the distance.

After spending some time at the tower, we continued on the loop and headed back to the entrance.

Orchid Garden

Before leaving, we made a quick stop at the orchid garden next to the entrance. Although not many flowers were blooming at the time of our visit (July), there were rows and rows of orchid plants. We imagined that when they’re blossoming, it must be beautiful.

Orchid garden near the entrancePlanning Your Visit to Santa Elena Cloud Forest ReserveEntrance

Visitors: $18 adults, $15 senior citizens (age 65+), $12 students, $9 children

Nationals and Residents: $6 adults, $5 senior citizens (age 65+), $4 students, $2 children

You don’t need to buy tickets in advance.

Hours

Open every day, 7:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Guided Tours

If you’re mostly interested in experiencing the beauty of the cloud forest, you don’t need a guide to visit the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve. The trails are well marked and easy to follow. Be sure to take a picture of the trail map and ask at the ranger station for trail recommendations when checking in.

But if you’re interested in learning more about the cloud forest and seeing birds and animals, we recommend a guided tour.

Here is the pricing through the guide we went out with and his team of locals. They are all naturalist guides with ICT certification from the Costa Rican government.

Santa Elena Private Tour (only your group/family; 3 hours): $70 per person + admission. Children 5 and under are free.

Santa Elena Group Tour (8 person maximum; 3 hours): $45 per person + admission. Children 5 and under are free.

Santa Elena Private Birdwatching Tour (4 hours): $70 per person + admission. Children 5 and under are free.

If you’d like us to help you reserve a tour, we would be happy to. Please send an email to bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com with which tour you’d like (general or birding), your preferred date, number of people (adults and children with ages of kids), and hotel or Airbnb location if you need pickup. Booking through us costs the same and helps support our website!

Accessibility

The trail closest to the entrance, Mundo Joven, is fully handicap accessible. The paved path is short (0.3 miles/0.5 km), but a wonderful option for exploring the cloud forest for those with limited mobility. It’s also great for families who would like to use a stroller.

Amenities

The Reserve has a cafeteria with basic lunch items like casados (traditional lunch plates of meat or fish served with rice and beans and side salads), quesadillas, sandwiches, burgers, nachos, and tacos. They also can make smoothies and have other drinks available.

Restrooms are at the beginning of the main trail near the entrance.

Conclusion

Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve was one of the first reserves that we hiked in Monteverde when we moved to Costa Rica and is still one of our favorites. Its uncrowded trails and gorgeous cloud forest scenery are memorable. And now with the observation tower, the experience is even richer.

Have a question about visiting Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve? Ask us below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Monteverde? Check out these posts:

Monteverde Hotel Guide: Check out our picks for hotels with cloud forest views, easy access to town, and onsite restaurants. 

Café Monteverde Coffee Tour: Monteverde has several coffee tours but this one is unique because it focuses on sustainability. It also has a great tasting at the end.

Finca El Paraiso: A Sustainable Farm Tour in Monteverde – This dairy farm is a fun spot to take the kids and offers the chance to make local cheese.

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Cerro Tortuguero: Hike and Viewpoint

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

If you are visiting Tortuguero in the northwestern corner of Costa Rica, you will notice that the landscape is very flat and wet. Tortuguero, after all, is in the middle of the wetlands. But there is one place to dry your feet, catch a breeze, and get an amazing view. Cerro Tortuguero has a short hiking trail that leads to a gorgeous viewpoint and some awesome wildlife along the way. In this post, we’ll tell you everything you need to plan your visit. 

Location

Cerro Tortuguero is located just north of Tortuguero village on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast. This remote destination is best known for sea turtle nesting and easy wildlife viewing.

Tortuguero is about a five-hour journey from San Jose. This includes ground transportation and a water taxi. Some travelers also choose to fly into the local airstrip, which takes about 40 minutes from San Jose.

About Cerro Tortuguero

Measuring just 390 feet (119 meters) tall, Cerro Tortuguero is the highest point along Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast. It was formed as a small volcano almost two million years ago. Now completely dormant, Cerro Tortuguero is covered in thick greenery.

View of Cerro Tortuguero from the water

The hill is part of the Barra del Colorado National Wildlife Refuge (Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Barra del Colorado). This conservation area protects an impressive 200,592 acres (81,177 hectares) of wetland, mangrove, beach, and forest habitat.

The Cerro Tortuguero sector of Barra del Colorado also borders the neighboring and equally important Tortuguero National Park.

What makes Cerro Tortuguero so special for visitors is the view from the top. There is a sea of trees as far as the eye can see.

Visiting Cerro TortugueroArriving

Tortuguero has no roads so everyone gets around locally by boat, bicycle, or walking. Cerro Tortuguero is best accessed by boat. It is about a 10 minute boat ride from the village and nearby hotels.

We’ll cover more specifics about how to get to Cerro Tortuguero below.

The most important thing to know is that you need to get tickets to visit Cerro Tortuguero in advance. These are easily purchased through the national park system’s website. Unfortunately, you cannot pay at the ranger station. We have heard that visitors without tickets are turned away. We’ll cover how to buy tickets below.  

Cerro Tortuguero Trail

From the ranger station, an elevated trail meanders through the steamy rainforest then up a large set of stairs to the viewpoint.

The trail is approximately 1.25 km (0.78 miles) each way or 2.5 km (1.5 miles) total there and back. Everything is flat except for the stairs.

Because the trail is raised off the ground, you don’t have to worry about navigating the swampy terrain below. This allows you to really enjoy the surrounding jungle and wildlife. 

The raised walkwayPlants & Wildlife

Along the trail, we saw massive canopy trees, spikey palms, fallen mossy logs, and a variety of unique flowers and bushes.

A burst of color among all the green

Some of the cool creatures we came across were a basilisk lizard, whiptail lizards, golden-orb spiders, hummingbirds, butterflies, beetles, and dozens of tiny blue-jean poison dart frogs. 

A blue-jean poison dart frog

In the trees above, we also saw three different types of monkeys. We were lucky enough to see a large family of spider monkeys up close (somewhat rare), and white-faced and howler monkeys farther away in the high branches.

A spider monkey swinging through the treesBat Cave

One unique feature along the trail was a shallow cave on the side of the rocky hill. This had its own observation area where you can watch some small bats moving around within the cave. There was a large sign describing their behavior.

Costa Rica has over 100 different bat species, and although we couldn’t tell exactly what type these ones were, we think they were long-nosed bats.

Bats sleeping inside the caveViewpoint

The highlight of the Cerro Tortuguero hike is getting to the expansive viewpoint. To do this, you have to go up over 400 steps to the top. The stairway is very nice, with consistently sized steps, terraces, and sturdy metal handrails.

The many stairs up to the viewpoint

Making it to the summit is well worth the effort. From the top of Cerro Tortuguero, you can see to your left the long Caribbean coastline where turtles come to nest. Below is the calm lagoon/canal and tiny towns of Tortuguero and San Francisco.

Looking down at San Francisco

But the most dramatic moment is looking to the south and seeing a complete sea of green trees. This gives a true sense of how remote and wild this area is.

Planning Your Visit to Cerro TortugueroGetting There – Entrances

It is important to know that Cerro Tortuguero has more than one entrance. The main entrance and ranger station is located on a narrow canal/river just northwest of the town of San Francisco de Tortuguero.

There is another entrance to the northeast of San Francisco along the wider Tortuguero Lagoon, which is closer to the airport and beach. This entrance does not have facilities, but you can still access the entire trail and visit the ranger station from the drop off point.

Which entrance you use depends on where your lodge is located.

Access From Tortuguero Village

If you are staying right in Tortuguero village, there is a public boat that leaves on a schedule between the main dock (Almond Dock) and the town of San Francisco de Tortuguero (very close to Cerro Tortuguero). This boat also will stop at the entrance to Cerro Tortuguero if you ask the captain. The cost is around 1,000 colones (less than $2) each way. Check at the dock for the latest schedule.

You also can take a boat taxi if the public boat schedule doesn’t work for you. Prices vary by operator but are generally $15-20 each way for a small group. You can tell the boat captain what time you’d like to be picked up.   

If you take the boat from Tortuguero village, you’ll be dropped off at the main entrance to Cerro Tortuguero. Here, you’ll find a nice dock and short walkway to the ranger station.

Dock at the official entrance near the ranger stationAccess from Lodges Outside Town

If you are staying at a lodge north of town, it may make more sense to visit the alternative entrance. Your hotel will help arrange this.

This is the way we accessed Cerro Tortuguero from the Tortuga Lodge, but you may also access it this way from hotels like Mawamba Lodge, Pachira Lodge, La Baula Lodge, Laguna Lodge, etc.

On this side, there is a drop off point near where the lagoon meets the sea. It is roughly halfway down the Cerro Tortuguero main trail, closer to the stairway going up to the top. There was no dock or ranger at this entrance when we visited. This was a little strange, but we figured out later when we came across the ranger station on the other end.

Entering the park from the other side (not near ranger station)

From this entrance, we hiked up to the lookout first, then came back down and explored the rest of the trail over to the ranger station. After, we hiked back to the drop off point on the lagoon to meet our boat.

If you access the trail from this entrance, just have your tickets ready and check in at the ranger station when you get to that point in the hike.

Purchasing Tickets

Tickets for Cerro Tortuguero must be purchased in advance through the SINAC (Sistema Nacional de Areas de Conservacion de Costa Rica) government website.

First, you’ll need to create an account. There is a button to change the language to English.

After logging in, click Buy on the left, then select Online Reservation.

Next, find the correct national park. You will want to select Parque Nacional Tortuguero – Sector Cerro Tortuguero.

Choose your date and time of visit (under Sector/Schedule).

Select the number of people, adults and children.

On the last page, you will need to fill in everyone’s full names and passport numbers, then enter your credit card information to pay.

Finally, a confirmation document will be emailed to you. Take a screenshot in case you don’t have cell phone service at Cerro Tortuguero.

At the ranger station, you’ll need to show your confirmation.

Do You Need a Guide?

Although the SINAC government website says that a guide is required, one is actually not. We confirmed this with our lodge and checked in at the ranger station with only our tickets.

This is a hike that’s fine to do on your own as it’s well marked, but of course if you’d rather have a guide, one would help you see more wildlife and teach you about the area.

Cost

$2 per person foreigners (adults & children)

₡500 per person residents/citizens (adults & children) 

Hours

Cerro Tortuguero is open daily from 8:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

Accessibility

The main trail and area around the ranger station may be suitable for those with some limited mobility. The concrete walkways are wide, flat, and even. The main trail does not have railings nor resting benches, however.

Ranger station

The stairway is extensive with over 400 steps. There is, however, a sturdy metal railing and good treads.

Keep in mind that some areas of the trail and stairway may become slippery from wet leaves and algae.

Those using a wheelchair would need to be lifted in and out of the boat, but could definitely use the flat trails.

Conclusion

Cerro Tortuguero is one of our favorite activities in Tortuguero. It was really nice to do a short hike after doing a lot of other tours that didn’t require much exercise. We especially loved the amazing wildlife along the trail. The view of complete green from the top was also memorable. If you are in Tortuguero, definitely make it a stop.

Have a question about visiting Cerro Tortuguero or want to share your experience? Leave us a comment below.  Looking for more information to plan your Tortuguero trip? Check out these posts:

Tortuguero Off the Resort – There are many package vacations that visit Tortuguero but this post will help you get a more local’s experience.

Tortuguero National Park: A Wildlife Hot Spot – From the waterway canals to the forested land trail, Tortuguero National Park stands out as one of Costa Rica’s wildlife gems.

Getting to Tortuguero – Traveling to such a remote spot can be confusing. This post will break down the options.

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Nuevo Arenal: A Lakeside Town

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Set on a hill overlooking Costa Rica’s largest lake is the village of Nuevo Arenal. This quiet lakeside town has an interesting history. And while not a major tourist destination, it has some fun things to do either on the lake or nearby. In this post, we’ll share what you need to know about visiting Nuevo Arenal.

Location

Nuevo Arenal is nestled into the north-central part of Costa Rica. It overlooks the giant Lake Arenal. This is Costa Rica’s largest freshwater lake at around 85-square kilometers (33-square miles).

Notably, the town sits between some other more popular tourist destinations.

La Fortuna and the famous Arenal Volcano are about one hour east. The Monteverde Cloud Forest is roughly two hours south. And beach towns in Guanacaste are between two and three hours west.

From Guanacaste’s Liberia International Airport (LIR), Nuevo Arenal is about a two-hour drive. From San Jose’s International Airport (SJO), the ride is around 3.5 hours.

About Nuevo Arenal

Set atop a hill with peaceful lake views, Nuevo Arenal has a humble downtown.

One main street has a small grocery store, shops, hardware stores, a bank, and pharmacy. Spread out along other side roads are several restaurants, a school, church, community center, and rodeo ring.

Other important landmarks are a boat ramp and recreational space next to the lake. Like most Costa Rican towns, there’s a park and soccer field in the center.

Outside the main area, small neighborhoods have been developed off the road that goes around the lake (Route 142).

Overall, the feeling in Nuevo Arenal is very rural, with patchworks of forest and farm fields surrounding the town.

View of Nuevo Arenal from across the lakeHistory

As the name suggests, Nuevo Arenal is the “new” Arenal. This is because in the 1970s, the townspeople of the original town (Arenal) were relocated to make way for a large hydroelectric project. This project would eventually dam the Arenal River and create a massive reservoir, now known as Lake Arenal.

With the completion of the Lake Arenal dam in the late 70s, the former town of Arenal is now underwater. There are still homes, a church, and a cemetery at the bottom of the lake. Most of the local people were moved to Nuevo Arenal to start afresh.

This wasn’t without controversy, however. From the stories we have been told, most citizens did not want to give up their homes and farms in the old town. However, after the violent eruption of Arenal Volcano in 1968, people became more willing to move.

Costa Rica’s government-run electric company (ICE) also made the move more appealing by building modern infrastructure for the new town. This included a reliable electric grid and streets with sidewalks, drainage systems, etc. These were big improvements for those who lived in old Arenal.

Lake ArenalWeather

Because of Nuevo Arenal’s position on the northern side of Lake Arenal and at the foot of a mountain range, the climate is quite unique.

One minute, it can be sunny and warm, while another minute, it can change to misty or rainy. These patterns are caused by micro weather systems coming from the lake. This keeps things fresh and springlike in Nuevo Arenal.

From November continuing through April, there is a strong westerly wind that crosses the lake. The wind can make Lake Arenal choppy, but calmer coves always offer some respite.

Activities in Nuevo ArenalFishing on Lake Arenal

One of the most popular activities to do in Nuevo Arenal is fishing on the lake. Lake Arenal is an excellent place to catch the hard fighting fish known as the guapote or rainbow bass.

Guided fishing charters are available on small bass-fishing style boats. Read more about the experience we had in our post, Fishing on Lake Arenal.

Casting a line!Kayaking & SUP

Another popular activity on the lake is kayaking or stand up paddleboard. There are a few small tour operators along the lake that will rent equipment and guide you around calmer coves, river inlets, and secret spots.

Other Water Sports

Some other water sports nearby include windsurfing and wakeboarding. These activities usually start on the western edge of the lake near the town of San Luis and Tronadora (about 30-40 minutes away).

Lake Arenal is a well-known windsurfing destination because of the consistent seasonal winds (November through April).

Another fun water activity that we have done is a sunset lake boat cruise. This tour starts on the eastern edge of the lake, closer to La Fortuna. We had great views of Arenal Volcano to the east and sunset to the west.

Arenal VolcanoLa Fortuna Activities

With Arenal Volcano towering in the distance, many people who stay in Nuevo Arenal want to visit some attractions around the volcano.

La Fortuna is the closest tourist town and has everything from zip lining and hanging bridges, to guided nature walks, rafting trips, and even agricultural tours.

Keep in mind, though, that these tours are about a one-hour drive from Nuevo Arenal.

Lake Cote

An easy activity right in Nuevo Arenal is a visit to Lake Cote. This lake is somewhat hidden next to Lake Arenal but is actually Costa Rica’s largest naturally formed freshwater lake.

Lake Cote was made famous when an aerial survey done by the Costa Rican government captured what appeared to be a flying saucer (UFO) in a photo.

Read more about this mystery and see the 1970s picture in our post, Nuevo Arenal’s Cote Lake: A Historic UFO Site.

El Jilguero Ecotourism Project

For an off-the-beaten path hike and nature experience, there is El Jilguero Ecotourism Project.

This small rural tourism project about 45 minutes west of Nuevo Arenal offers guided hikes through the cloud forest. There are also a few volcanic steam vents.

Read our post, El Jilguero Ecotourism Project: Hiking and Fumaroles, for all the information you need to plan a visit.

The trail through the cloud forest at El JilgueroRestaurants in Nuevo Arenal

For such a small town, Nuevo Arenal has a good selection of restaurants. Here are a handful of our favorites.

Casa Italia

This is our top pick in Nuevo Arenal. During a recent one-week stay, we visited four times! Casa Italia serves homemade specialties like pasta alla Norma, pasta Bolognese, pasta carbonara, gnocchi, ravioli, and lasagna. Everything is crafted from scratch by the Sicilian owner and his staff then finished in a wood-fired oven for an extra touch. The pizzas and desserts are also delicious.

Pasta alla Norma, a traditional Sicilian dish with eggplantMoya’s Place

For a casual meal in an upbeat environment, there is Moya’s Place. Located at the corner entrance to town, Moya’s has a large menu. From burgers, wraps, salads, and pizzas to salmon and beef tenderloin, there is something for everyone. Moya’s also has a fun drink menu with cocktails, craft beer, smoothies, and kombucha.

Tom’s Pan German Bakery

For authentic German treats like apple strudel, pretzels, breads, sausages, and much more, check out Tom’s Pan German Bakery. This establishment has been around for 25+ years and is worth a stop, even if you are just passing through. Located on the steep hill near the town center on the main road (Route 142).

Some of the goodies at the German Bakery!Los Platillos Voladores

With funky decor in an alien theme, Los Platillos Voladores (the Flying Saucers) is a fun stop when visiting Nuevo Arenal. The Italian food is very good and the location, right next to a playground and the town soccer field, make it a family-friendly choice.

Soda La Parada

Situated right at the bus stop in town is Soda La Parada (the Stop). This small local restaurant serves tasty traditional plates like casados (rice, beans, side salads, and your choice of meat/fish), rice dishes like arroz con pollo (rice with chicken), and soups. The quality is excellent for the price.

A typical plate at La ParadaGingerbread Restaurant

One of the most well-known restaurants in Nuevo Arenal is Gingerbread. The charismatic chef and his staff aim to create a memorable dining experience that will leave you coming back for more. Food is often prepared off-menu to suit your individual tastes. The vibe is upbeat and fun.

Hotels & Accommodations in Nuevo Arenal

Nuevo Arenal has a good selection of smaller hotels and bed and breakfasts. Vacation rentals are also popular in the area. Here are a few accommodation options.

Lucky Bug Bed & Breakfast

Set on a small lagoon, Lucky Bug Bed & Breakfast has a handful of spacious colorful rooms. Some rooms have balconies. The grounds have beautiful gardens and feeders that attract a lot of hummingbirds. $85-175/night, depending on configuration. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Lucky Bug B&BGingerbread Hotel & Restaurant

Gingerbread Hotel has a few rooms and two freestanding bungalows. Each of the cozy spaces is decorated in a unique theme. Guests love the friendly, attentive staff as well as the onsite restaurant, mentioned above. Around $130/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Casa Donna Rosa B&B

Casa Donna Rosa B&B is a great lodging option right in town. Rooms are simple, but nicely decorated, spacious, and well-equipped. Wildlife can often be spotted from the balconies. The property has a nice garden, small pool, and relaxing lounging area. $115-175/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Casa Donna Rosa B&BHotel Los Heroes

After being closed for several years, this local landmark has recently reopened. In its heyday, the property, which resembles a Swiss village, had a working train, chapel, and two restaurants. Today, Hotel Los Heroes offers simple rooms with old-world decor for around $80-100/night. Check Rates and Availability Here. 

Conclusion

Nuevo Arenal may not be a major tourist destination but that doesn’t stop it from being a charming Costa Rican town to visit. With lake views, friendly locals, a thriving expat community, and fun attractions nearby, it has all the makings for a relaxing tropical vacation.

Have a question about visiting Nuevo Arenal? Leave a comment below.

Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you book a hotel using one of the links, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Read our Privacy Policy for more information.

Looking for more off-the-tourist-trail destinations? Check out these posts:

San Ramon: Close to Culture – This small city west of San Jose has a real locals’ feel. Visit the church and town park, go on a coffee tour, hike, or visit the local brewery.

Bajos del Toro: Costa Rica’s Land of Waterfalls – On the back side of Poas Volcano, this town features some of the country’s most beautiful waterfalls.

Curubande de Liberia: A Country Town in Rincon de la Vieja – This small village is close to Rincon de la Vieja National Park, gorgeous waterfalls, and volcanic hot springs. It’s the perfect destination for an authentic stay.

The post Nuevo Arenal: A Lakeside Town appeared first on Two Weeks in Costa Rica.

Café Monteverde Coffee Tour: A Lesson in Sustainability

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Set in the misty mountains near one of Costa Rica’s most famous cloud forests is Café Monteverde. This generations-old coffee farm has developed over the years from a simple agricultural operation to a sustainability-focused and community-centered icon. In this post, we will share what we learned during our visit to Café Monteverde and how you can plan a visit too.

Location

Our tour started in the village of Canitas near Santa Elena on the outskirts of Costa Rica’s famous Monteverde Cloud Forest.

This area is about 2.5 hours from both of Costa Rica’s international airports. It is known for its cooler mountain climate and unique ecosystem.  

After walking a path through some coffee plants, we reached the wooden building where our tour would begin. Here, in what is called the Monteverde Coffee Lab, we met our guide Jerson.

Cafe Monteverde TourBackground

Driven by a passion for coffee and fueled by caffeine, Jerson was energetic and enthusiastic.  

As our small group sat down in the room, we quickly learned that Jerson was a son of one of the original Café Monteverde founders.

In fact, his grandfather was one of the first to start growing coffee in the Monteverde area. He almost sold the farm, but Jerson’s dad and a friend saved it.

Today there are over 20 different owners, including uncles, brothers, sisters, and cousins. 

Centered on Community

Jerson went on to explain that today, Café Monteverde includes much more than his own family circle. They work with other farms in the area too, encompassing 200 acres (81 hectares) in total.

Impressively, half of that land is kept in conservation to increase biodiversity and preserve the natural environment around them.

A mix of farm and conservation land

Together, the farms produce around 100,000 pounds (45,359 kg) of raw coffee beans per year. About 40% is exported while the remaining beans are used locally.    

The community alliance doesn’t stop there. One dollar from every bag of coffee sold goes back to the community. Between the participating coffee farms and tours in Monteverde, around $60,000 per year is raised for projects and a backup emergency fund.

Walking the Property

After learning more about Café Monteverde’s history and values, Jerson led us outside to the fields.

Starting from Seed

Standing in front of a raised garden bed, Jerson told us that we were looking at the most important part of the coffee plant’s success, germination.

Hundreds of tiny seedlings, many still with coffee beans attached, sprouted from the rich black soil. Jerson explained that these seeds take a long time to sprout and it is important to give them the time they need.

Baby coffee plants

In fact, good root development takes around two months! From there, the seedlings are moved into small soil bags where they will grow for another seven months. Finally, the sapling can be planted in the field.

It will take two more years before the plant can start producing coffee.

Bio Fertilizer

Our next stop was an open barn filled with dozens of plastic barrels, water tubes, and piles of rotting compost.

Jerson directed us to a corner where some displays were set up. We listened as he explained how Café Monteverde makes their own organic fertilizers. We could immediately tell that this was Jerson’s passion.

Jerson showing us how to make homemade biofertilizer

Passing around samples, we smelled jars, felt textures, and learned about all the different components that are integrated into their fertilizer recipes.

The description and processes were a bit complex, but here is what stood out. The base of the fertilizer comes from the forest. Tiny microorganisms growing in leaf litter on the forest floor naturally break down organic matter into nutrients.

To make the fertilizer, Café Monteverde borrows some of the forest’s leaf litter. They then combine it with other compost, water, and sugar. The mix is given time to brew, and finally, it becomes a concentrated liquid fertilizer.  

Barrels that produce their natural fertilizer

Jerson told us that it was his grandfather (some 90 years old) who first taught him about the beneficial microorganisms. He said, isn’t it funny that after all these years, we are going back to what we already knew?

Growing Sustainably

Back outside, Jerson walked through young coffee plants while explaining that 30 barrels of their biofertilizer supports up to 100 acres (40 hectares). They spray it around the plants and it soaks into the soil and roots.

The goal is to keep the plants as healthy as possible because they face a lot of challenges. Currently up to 20,000 plants on the farms die each year from disease. With climate change, things are getting worse.

A leaf with coffee rust disease

Café Monteverde is also trying new varieties of coffee that are more resistant to disease. So far, they have 12 varieties. But each one takes years to grow, produce, and develop, so the trial period is long (around 10 years). For this reason, they keep 80% of the original coffee variety that was started back in the 1970s as their base.

A Mixed Crop

In the field, Jerson also pointed out different plants growing alongside the coffee. There were papaya, citrus, and banana plants.

We learned that banana plants serve as a wind break, soak up excess water, provide shade, and even have a natural bacterium that kills fungus.

Citrus trees, Jerson told us, are important because they flower at the same time as coffee, attracting more pollinators. 

Natural Pest Control

Entering a greenhouse, we next learned about some of the other fruits and vegetables Café Monteverde grows. Things like lettuce, tomatoes, green beans, squash, etc. These are mostly used for the farm’s kitchen to help feed workers, students, and volunteers.

Jerson explained that they are testing some natural pest controls on their crops and coffee fields.

He went on to explain that certain plants can be added to the biofertilizer brew to make the spray not only fertilize, but also fend off fungi or predatory insects.

Looking at some kale that had been devoured by caterpillars, he joked that this is a work in progress.

This kale was eaten by catepillarsHarvesting Coffee

While it wasn’t coffee picking season during our visit (July), Jerson didn’t let that stop him from explaining how it’s done. Jerson himself was a coffee picker for 16 seasons growing up.

While demonstrating how the coffee-picking basket is worn, we learned all about Costa Rica’s seasonal coffee pickers.

Green coffee cherries. When ripe, they will turn red.

At Café Monteverde, almost all the pickers come from nearby Nicaragua. Some families have been coming back each picking season for over 20 years.

Jerson explained the importance of taking care of the pickers and their families. Their farm pays better wages and many of the pickers have moved up to work in higher positions at the farm.

They consider many of the pickers to be part of their family.  

Roasting

Finally, it was time for a coffee break. Our group walked back inside and stood in front of a large roasting machine. They had finished roasting for the day, but we could still smell the rich aromas of toasted coffee in the air. 

Jerson briefly explained about the roasting process and how each blend is made. Light, medium, and dark roasts are all heated at different temperatures for different amounts of time.

The coffee roaster

The process sounds easy but the coffee master, Roy, has been perfecting it for nearly 17 years.

To our surprise, there were more than just those three standard roasts. Jerson told us about three additional roasts they do at the farm. These were called honey, natural, and yellow berries.

Jerson explained some of the characteristics of each one.  

Tasting

Moving back into the room where we started the tour, Jerson stood in front of six French presses. Each one, he told us, had the same amount of water and coffee. To be exact, 300 ml of hot water and 25 grams of coffee.

But they are all different, he said smiling.

The delicious coffee tasting

Passing around samples, he asked us to decide which roast was which. Everyone in our group could agree on which sample was dark, most agreed on which was light, but there was a lot of discussion about the other four.

It was a fun exercise and very tasty. Our overall favorite was the special limited batch that was called yellow berries. The origin of this coffee was from Brazil. It was mild, a touch sweet, and smooth to drink.

Conclusion

We waved goodbye to Jerson and thanked him for the awesome tour. It was a very educational experience and we learned so much from him in just a short time. We also got a great coffee buzz, which was important for our busy schedule that day!

If you have an interest in natural farming processes, sustainability, and/or community development, we’d highly recommend the Café Monteverde tour.

Planning Your Visit to Café MonteverdeTour Times

Café Monteverde offers tours at 8:30 a.m., 9:30 a.m., or 2:00 p.m. with prior reservations.

Duration

About 2.5 hours

Cost

$40 per person adults

$12 per person children ages 6-12

Children 5 and under are free

*Transportation from nearby hotels is an additional $6 per person.

How to Book a Tour

Tours can be booked through the Café Monteverde website.

Have a question about visiting Café Monteverde or have something to add? Leave a comment below. Looking for more Monteverde info? Check out these posts:

Selvatura Park: Cloud Forest Hanging Bridges Walk – This is one of our favorite hanging bridge walks in Costa Rica.

Monteverde Hotel Guide – Check out our handpicked list of lodges and hotels in Monteverde. Includes all price ranges.

Finca El Paraiso: A Sustainable Farm Tour in Monteverde – This dairy farm tour is an excellent way to experience the local culture and make some tasty treats!

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Trapiche Vasquez: A Fun Stop Between La Fortuna and Monteverde

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

La Fortuna and Monteverde are two of Costa Rica’s most popular destinations, but getting between these towns involves a bit of driving. If you’re looking to break up the trip, one good stop is a trapiche demonstration. In this post, we’ll tell you about the sugar cane demonstration at Trapiche Vasquez. This is at a small local restaurant and isn’t a tour per se, but is an interesting, authentic experience.

Background

Our family discovered the trapiche (mill) demonstration at Trapiche Vasquez by chance. We were looking for a place to have lunch, and not much was open since it was a holiday.

A little outside the small city of Tilaran, on our drive to Monteverde, we stumbled upon Restaurante Florida.

Florida Restaurant is a simple soda. Soda is the name for a local restaurant that serves traditional Costa Rican food. Usually they are modest establishments, but often have some of the best food around. This was the case at Florida Restaurant.

The restaurant

Our family of four each ordered a typical casado (traditional lunch plate) from the short menu, along with a fresh-fruit drink.

While we were waiting for our food, Bernabe, the owner, asked if we’d like to see a sugar cane demonstration. Not knowing what to expect, we followed him out to the trapiche.

Trapiche DemonstrationGrinding the Sugar Cane

We entered the large garage-like building and saw an old-fashioned machine. It had a metal grinder in the center and long arms extending in both directions. This was a trapiche, which is used to grind the juice from sugar cane. Interestingly, this particular machine was made in 1891 in Ohio!

Bernabe invited Jenn, Sam (age 7 at the time), and Evan (age 4) to lend a hand with the grinding, while he fed a giant sugar cane rod into the machine. It was hard work getting the machine going, but they were able to gain some momentum and grinded through several rods in no time. The yellowish sugar cane juice streamed down into a pitcher below.

It only took three rods to fill the pitcher.

Leftover sugar cane rods after we extracted the juiceThe Tasting

Bernabe then invited us to try the juice we had made. We soon realized that this wasn’t going to be a simple sugar cane tasting.

First, he divided the juice into two pitchers. Then he cut an orange and squeezed it into one of the pitchers. He poured some of the yellow-orange mixture into five cups.

The taste was spectacular. We had done many sugar cane demonstrations in the past but didn’t love the flavor of sugar cane juice alone. Adding the orange really gave it some complexity and everyone enjoyed it, even our two kids.

Bernabe then quickly grabbed a chunk of whole ginger and wrapped it in sugar cane husk. He put it through trapiche machine and let the juice drip into the other pitcher. The fresh smell of ginger filled the air.

He let us try the sugar cane juice with ginger now. It was so fresh and delicious. The kids weren’t so sure since the flavor was a little strong, but the adults loved it.

After that, he mixed everything together so that we could try it with both the orange and ginger. This was the best combination yet!

Tasting the juiceMolasses Process

After tasting the raw sugar cane juice, Bernabe explained a little about the process for making tapa de dulce.

Tapa de dulce is similar to molasses and used as a sweetener in many foods in Costa Rica.

Bernabe first showed us the big iron boiler. He said that you pour the sugar cane juice in there, and it slowly thickens as it heats, eventually turning to a thick brown liquid. After, the liquid is put into wooden forms where it turns into a solid. This solid type of tapa de dulce, sort of a dome shape, can be bought in just about every grocery store in Costa Rica.

The iron pot used to cook tapa de dulce

Tapa de dulce is also available in liquid form (called miel de cana). He showed us a canaster of this as well.

The liquid form of tapa de dulceLunch

With his wife and daughter in the kitchen waving that lunch was ready, we headed back to the restaurant.

Plates of locally raised tilapia, rice and beans, side salads, and plantains were waiting for us. Each dish cost only about $8 but was one of the best meals we’d had in a long time.

Our delicious lunch

When we finished our lunch, Bernabe brought us a dessert made with some of the tapa de dulce, peanuts, and milk. It was intensely sweet and delicious. Then he brought out a homemade donut drizzled with more tapa de dulce. We enjoyed it alongside a cup of strong coffee.

A cafecito with donut for dessertGuest Book

With full stomachs, we chatted with Bernabe a bit more. We learned that he had been a farmer for many years and saw the farm fields out the back window. Due to a problem with his back, he has had to cut back on farming.

It was great talking to him and learning more about his family. He was so kind and loved sharing his trapiche with us.

Before getting back in our car, Berrnabe asked us to add our names to his agenda book where he tracks his tours. We found out that we were tour number 8,804! He had been doing these sugar cane demonstrations for 17 years.

Conclusion

We felt so lucky to have happened upon the Vasquez family that day. Getting to do a surprise trapiche demonstration was fun for everyone, especially the kids. It was a great stop to break up the drive from La Fortuna to Monteverde.

Trapiche Demonstration DetailsLocation

Florida Restaurant (Restaurante Florida) is located in the town of Florida de Tilaran. It is about 35 minutes outside Tilaran right on the main road, Route 145. Here’s a link to the location on Google Maps.

Reservation

You don’t need a reservation for the simple trapiche demonstration that we did. If you have a large group or would like the full demonstration where they make the tapa de dulce/molasses, contact Bernabe in advance. He typically does full sugar cane demonstrations on Saturdays, but not every week so it’s best to reach out beforehand.

Bernabe’s WhatsApp is +506 8303-2948 or you can reach out through their Facebook page, Trapiche Vasquez.

Cost

$5 per person for the basic trapiche demonstration

Have a question about the tour at Trapiche Vasquez near Tilaran? Ask us below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

Viento Fresco Waterfalls: This is another fun option for a stop between La Fortuna and Monteverde that will show you several waterfalls.

North Fields Cafe: A Delicious Coffee and Chocolate Tour in La Fortuna: If you’re visiting La Fortuna, this is one of our favorite coffee/chocolate tours in Costa Rica.

Selvatura Hanging Bridges: The hanging bridges at Selvatura are great with kids and a nice way to explore the cloud forest.

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