Matthew Houde's Blog, page 5

Top Things to Do in Samara

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Samara is a small beach town with a fun mix of ocean and nature activities. Whether you want to unwind on the sand, splash in the sea, or learn about Costa Rica’s local wildlife, there is something for just about everyone. In this post, we’ll share some of our favorite things to do in Samara.  

Things to Do in SamaraSamara Beach

At the top of everyone’s list is Playa Samara (Samara Beach). Set in a cove with an offshore island and reef protecting it, the water is generally calmer than many beaches in Costa Rica. On the southern end, waves are minimal. In the middle, medium-sized waves at certain tides are fun for surfing and splashing.

Playa Samara at mid-tide

Another cool thing about the palm-tree-backed Playa Samara are the several beachside restaurants. These are great for a sandy lunch, sunset cocktails, some beach volleyball, or a lively evening out.  

Samara Farmers Market

If you’re visiting Samara over a weekend, be sure to stop by the feria (farmers market). This outdoor market has fresh tropical fruits and veggies, specialty foods, sauces, drinks, artwork, handmade jewelry, and lots of other crafts. It brings out people from the community and is a great place to mingle with the locals. There is often live music as well.

The farmers market is held every Saturday from 7:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. at the Samara Municipal Park. Here is a map with the location.  

Vendors set up under the trees at Samara’s weekly farmers marketDolphin & Snorkel Tour

To get out on the shimmering sea, try a dolphin watching and snorkel combo. On a small, sturdy catamaran, you’ll head offshore looking for pods of dolphins, sea turtles, and sometimes whales or other sea creatures.

Spotting a dolphin right under the boat!

Our family loved this experience. The dolphins were playing right under our boat, and we had a nice time snorkeling closer to shore too. For lots more detail, check out our post, Dolphin Watching and Snorkeling in Samara.

If you’d like to book this tour, we’d be happy to help. Just use the link below and we’ll request the reservation with the tour company we recommend in Samara. Booking through us costs the same and helps support our website.

Dolphin Watching-Snorkel Tour – Samara
Price: From: $58.00 +VAT
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Dolphin Watching-Snorkel Tour (Private Tour) – Samara
Price: $850.00 +VAT
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Kayak or SUP to Isla Chora

For a paddling adventure, there is the nearby Isla Chora. This is the bigger island you can see from the beach. Kayak and SUP tours leave from the southern end of the cove and it’s just a short 20-minute paddle out.

Once you arrive on the island, you can enjoy the fluffy white sand, see some of the iguanas and thousands of hermit crabs living ashore, or snorkel in the calmer channel with the reef fish.

Kayaks lined up on the white sands of Isla Chora

We had been wondering about this activity for many years and finally did it. It was super fun and easier than we thought. If you’d like to book this experience, just use the link below to fill out your details. We’d be happy to arrange it for you.

Isla Chora Kayak/SUP or Snorkel Tour – Samara
Price: From: $52.00 +VAT
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Horseback Riding

Another popular activity right from town is horseback riding. For a casual ride along the sand, you can approach one of the locals trotting past or find them under the palm trees near the boardwalk. These rides are informal, short, and inexpensive. No previous riding experience is needed. Just be sure the horses look well kept and healthy before signing up.

Horses strolling through townSurf Lessons

Just because Samara’s waves are smaller, doesn’t mean the surfing isn’t good. In fact, the gentle beach break is perfect for beginner-to-intermediate surfers.

Matt and our oldest son, Sam, recently took surf lessons in Samara and really advanced their skills. Sam rode the bubbly white-water waves, while Matt learned how to catch the breaking waves a bit farther out. Their instructors were so fun and enthusiastic.

Our son Sam catching a wave with help of his instructor

If you already know how to surf, board rentals are available right on the beach. To book a lesson with the instructors we had, just use the link below. Booking through us costs the same, and we’ll ensure you’re in good hands.

Surf Lessons – From Samara
Price: From: $62.00 +VAT
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Guided Hikes

Samara is backed by a beautiful swath of tropical dry forest. This unique habitat has monkeys, lizards, frogs, bats, cool insects, and many tropical birds.

For hiking, there are two main options.

Samara Trails/Werner Sauter Biological Reserve

At this private reserve, you will be guided up a nearby mountain to a viewpoint overlooking the town and beach. Along the 3.4-mile (5.5 km) trail, you’ll learn about some of the cool plants and animals that live there. During our visit, we saw owls, monkeys, and a tropical porcupine!

View from the top of the trail during dry season

This hike is a bit harder because of the elevation and it can be very hot, especially in dry season (December through April). The wildlife and view from the top make it totally worth the effort, though.

For much more information, read our post, Samara Trails: Exploring the Tropical Dry Forest, or click on the booking link below for the tour details.

Guided Hike at Samara Trails
Price: From: $42.00 +VAT
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Nature Hike to Private Reserve

For a flatter hike, there is another lesser-known option through a local guide. He takes you to his family’s 247-acre (100-hectare) property just a few minutes outside town.

On the 1.5-mile (2.5 km) walk, your guide will lead you alongside a seasonal stream and around the base of trees that are hundreds of years old. This option is perfect with kids or anyone who doesn’t want a strenuous hike.  

We learned so much from our naturalist guide about the local flora and fauna. We were able to see howler monkeys, bats (including rare white ghost bats), interesting insects, and some really strange plants.

Our guide teaching us about the forest around Samara

To book this experience, fill out your details using the link below and we will reach out to the guide.   

Nature Hike to Private Reserve – Samara
Price: From: $50.00 +VAT
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Playa Carrillo

After some hiking, you’ll no doubt be ready to hit the beach again. A special spot in the area is Playa Carrillo, just south of Samara. Playa Carrillo is in another large cove. It’s a gorgeous light sand beach backed by layers of tall palm trees. There is no development right there so the vibe is relaxing.

The palm-tree-backed Playa Carrillo

Tip: Many locals from the area go to Playa Carrillo on weekends and holidays, so it’s also a fun way to soak up the culture. For more, read our post, Playa Carrillo: A Favorite Locals’ Beach in Guanacaste.   

Macaw Parrot Breeding Project

About 40-minutes south of Samara in the town of Punta Islita is a completely unique experience. The Macaw Recovery Network works to breed and reintroduce two species of macaw parrots back into the wild.

On a short tour of their facility, you’ll learn how they have successfully increased Costa Rica’s populations of these threatened birds.

But what’s really special is feeding time. The released parrots are free to come and go, but many return each day for a supplemental snack. On the tour, you’ll see dozens of them swooping through the property, making for some amazing photos.

Tours can be booked directly through the Macaw Recovery Network’s website.

Snack time at the Macaw Recovery NetworkConclusion

We hope this list of activities in Samara has given you some ideas for your time there. We always find ourselves going back to this special beach town and hope to uncover even more things to do on our next visits. We’ll be sure to update this post whenever we do.

Have a question about one of these activities or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan? Check out these posts:

Costa Rica Shuttle Transfers – Samara can be a walkable destination, depending on where you stay in town. If you are visiting without a car, use this page to find shuttles to/from the airport.

Family Itinerary for Costa Rica: Rainforest, Beach & Volcano – Ready to go to Samara? Easily modify this itinerary to include Samara as your beach destination.

TWCR Online Tour Bookings – Did you know we book tours all over Costa Rica? Browse other things we have done throughout the country and leave the arrangements up to us.

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9 Things to Do in Uvita: Ocean, Nature, and Culture

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

With lush jungle and beaches stretching for miles, Uvita is a playground for nature lovers. In this small coastal town, many of the activities are, of course, centered around the ocean. But there are lots of other interesting tours and attractions. In this post, we give our top picks for things to do in Uvita. We not only cover the most popular, but also some lesser-known options that will take you off the tourist trail.

Things to Do in UvitaWhale Tail/Marino Ballena National Park

The focal point of Uvita is the famous Whale Tail. This extraordinary sandbar is located at the main beach at Marino Ballena National Park (the National Whale Marine Park). Due to ocean currents, the rocks and sand in this spot form a near perfect whale-tail shape. Although the best view of the tail is from above, we recommend walking the rocks at low tide to get a sense of its grandeur. Here’s a link to the tide chart.

For more information about visiting, read our post, the Whale Tail at Uvita’s Marino Ballena National Park.

Walking the Whale Tail at Marino Ballena National ParkWhale Watching

To add even more magic, humpback whales migrate to the warm waters around Uvita’s Whale Tail to breed and rear young during certain times of year. Whale watching tours are one of the most popular activities in Uvita.

Keep in mind that whale watching is seasonal. The best time is mid July through October (peak migration is in September), though there is a smaller migration starting in late December.

Spotting a humpback on a whale watching tour

Tours leave from the main beach and are on smaller boats that hold about 20 people. The beach doesn’t have a dock or marina so you wade through the shallow water to board the boat.

For lots more information, check out our post, Whale Watching in Costa Rica.

Or if you’d like to book a tour, we’d be happy to help. Just use the link below, and we’ll request the reservation with the tour company we recommend in Uvita. Booking through us costs the same and helps support our website. 

Whale Watching – From Uvita
Price: From: $88.00 +VAT
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Coconut Tour

One of the most memorable tours we have done in Uvita was a coconut tour. Although learning about how coconut is processed was interesting, the guide is what made the experience.

David, a local from Uvita, is high energy and loves everything coconut. On a tour, he will enthusiastically go through the process of removing the coconut’s hard outer shell to scraping the white insides, extracting the milk, and boiling the rest into oil. You’ll learn about the health benefits of coconut and get to enjoy plenty of tastings along the way.

Many of David’s coconut tools are homemade and he lets you give them a try. Our kids really enjoyed this tour because it was so interactive.

If you’d like to book this tour, you can reach out to David on Facebook or Instagram.

David teaching us all about coconutsUvita Waterfall

A nice spot for an hour or two is the Uvita Waterfall.

This small, but beautiful, cascade is set in the rainforest just outside the main area of town. A 10-minute walk will take you to this stunning falls. You can swim in the refreshing pool or slide down, while those up for some adventure can try jumping in (always use caution!)

The Uvita Waterfall is popular and gets busy during high season (late December to April) so keep that in mind.

The Uvita Waterfall has two entrances. For more information on the options, read our post.

The small, but pretty, waterfall right in UvitaDon Emilio Coffee Tour

Coffee is usually grown at higher elevations, but since the mountains rise quickly in Uvita, you can even find a coffee tour nearby.

The Don Emilio tour is very authentic and takes you to the family’s coffee farm in the mountains of San Josecito. On a tour, you’ll learn how coffee is made from bean to cup. The best part of the experience, though, is getting a glimpse into this Costa Rican family’s everyday life.

To learn about the tour, including how to get there and book, read our post, Cafe Don Emilio: A Family Coffee Farm Near Uvita.

Taking a coffee tour with Don Emilio and his son, DeinerPlaya Ventanas – Cave and Beach

Beaches don’t always make our list of top things to do, but Playa Ventanas is a special spot.

Playa Ventanas is a lesser-known beach about 15 minutes south of Uvita. From the water, you’ll get amazing views of the lush mountain backdrop. Add to that a cool cave that you can walk through at low tide, and it’s definitely worth making into a beach day.

Inside the cave at Ventanas BeachSnorkel or Dive at Cano Island

Cano Island is one of the best places in Costa Rica for snorkeling and diving. Located off the coast of the Osa Peninsula, Cano Island is a protected biological reserve. From Uvita, the boat ride to Cano is about a 1.5 hours. Along the way, you might see turtles, sea birds, and even dolphins, which can be found year-round.

In the warm waters around the island, you can see many types of reef fish, barracuda, pufferfish, moray eels, sting rays, and sometimes manta rays and sharks. We were lucky enough to see reef sharks on one of our visits.

Snorkeling among schools of fish at Cano Island

Snorkel tours at Cano are done off the boat and best for those with some snorkeling experience. Tours are typically a full day long. 

If you’d like to book a snorkel tour, we’d be happy to help. Just use the link below and we’ll reach out to the tour company we recommend to make the arrangements. Booking through us costs the same and helps support our website!

Cano Island Snorkel Tour – From Uvita
Price: From: $150.00 +VAT
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Surf Lessons

If you’ve ever wanted to try surfing, the beaches around Uvita offer ideal conditions. Several area beaches offer smaller waves for beginners. An offshore sandbar at Playa Chaman creates consistent rolling waves, perfect for those just starting out. The Uvita area also has beaches for more advanced surfers, like Playa Hermosa or Dominical just up the coast.

To hear about our experience, read our post, Surf Lessons in Uvita.

Our son catching a wave at Playa ChamanUvita Farmers Market

One last fun thing to do in Uvita is the farmers market.

At El Mercado de Bahia Ballena (the Market of Bahia Ballena), farmers and local artisans come selling fresh produce, bread, specialty foods, coffee, homemade soaps, clothing and hats, jewelry, and even Boruca indigenous masks. Held every Wednesday and Saturday until early afternoon.

The farmers market is located in Bahia Ballena (the beach side of town). Here is a map with the location.

The farmers market in UvitaNearby Day Trips

Don’t forget that the laid-back town of Dominical is just 15 minutes north of Uvita and has its own unique activities. Our Dominical Activities Guide covers the many options, including the gorgeous Nauyaca Waterfall, hiking at Hacienda Baru, and mangrove kayaking.

The amazing Nauyaca Waterfalls near Dominical

For those with more time, the popular destination of Manuel Antonio is about 1.25 hours away. From there, you can zipline, do adventure combo tours, hike hanging bridges, and take catamaran cruises. Check out our Manuel Antonio Activities Guide for lots more information.

Conclusion

The main draw in Uvita is definitely its gorgeous beaches, but waterfalls, wildlife, and cultural tours are also high on our list. We hope this guide has given you some good ideas for your visit.

Have a question about things to do in Uvita? Leave us a comment below.Looking for more information to plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Best Restaurants in Uvita: Our top picks for where to eat.

Rental Car Discount: The Uvita area is spread out and best accessed with a rental car (4×4 recommended). Check out our discount through one of Costa Rica’s most reputable companies.

Driving in Costa Rica: What to Know Before You Go – One of our most popular posts. Learn about the customs and quirks of driving in Costa Rica.

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Nauyaca Nature Park: Best Waterfall Access (with Video)

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

If you are visiting Dominical, Uvita, or even Manuel Antonio during your trip to Costa Rica, you won’t want to miss the famous Nauyaca Waterfall. This impressive cascade now has two entrances. In this post, we’ll share a second, newer entrance called the Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park. This way involves a bit more driving but offers easy access, friendly staff, and beautiful views.

Background

We first wrote about the Nauyaca Waterfall more than 10 years ago, shortly after moving to Costa Rica. At the time, there was only one way in and not much was known about it.

Today, this waterfall gets many visitors and for good reason. It’s one of the most picturesque cascades in the country, with two giant tiers and amazing jungle surrounds.

Here’s a quick video

Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park

The Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park is the newest option for visiting the Nauyaca Waterfall.

We have to admit that we were hesitant to drive farther to this entrance, but so glad we did. Overall, we found the facilities welcoming and nice, the staff friendly, and the views and access to the waterfall superior.  

Location

The starting location of the Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park is a charming mountain village called San Salvador de Baru near Tinamaste off Route 243.

While this entrance is about 30 minutes past the original Nauyaca entrance, we feel that the extra drive was worth it. The last part is along an unpaved country road, but no 4×4 is necessary.

For information on access through the original entrance, see our post, Visiting the Beautiful Nauyaca Waterfall.

The sign on the main road for the entranceFacilities

Arriving at the main office of the Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park, you will find a large building with the reception, small restaurant, and drink bar with free coffee. Outside, overlooking the rolling mountains, is a covered patio.

Our kids also really enjoyed the pool table and ping-pong table inside. It kept them busy while we were getting the tickets.

Views from the main office – a different waterfall (the Diamante) is in the distance

Closer to the waterfall is another building. This area has nicely maintained bathrooms, changing rooms, showers, and a big open rancho with swings, hammocks, games, and Wi-Fi.

Bathrooms, changing rooms, and showers near the waterfall trailTicket Options

From the main office, you have two access options.

Hike in and Take Truck Out – $28 pp adults, $25 pp children (ages 3-11)

One option is to hike from the office to the waterfall, then take a truck ride back up when you are done. This is what we did.

The hike is about 1.6 miles (2.7 km). It goes along the quiet village road, down a dirt road to the changing rooms and rancho, and then to the waterfall trail.

Since it was mostly downhill, it was easy, even for our youngest son (age 5). This option took us about one hour (going slow). We stopped frequently to see butterflies, bugs, flowers, and a friendly goat along the road.   

Our son walking the dirt trailTruck Both Ways – $38 pp adults, $35 pp children (ages 3-11)

If you are short on time or don’t want to walk as much, you can take the truck both ways.

With this option, the truck will drive you all the way to the changing rooms and rancho where the waterfall trail starts. You’ll still need to hike 15 minutes down to the waterfall.

The truck that takes you to the rancho near the waterfallTrails and Scenery

From the rancho and changing rooms, the main trail to the waterfall begins.

There is no vehicle access here, just a narrow, but well-maintained, trail through the lush jungle. The trail descends quickly. We counted about 300 steps in total to reach the main waterfall pool.

Trail conditions were good considering the rugged terrain. Rope handrails make the hike a bit easier, and the steps weren’t too big.  

As you meander down, you’ll see large trees, lush vegetation, and maybe some wildlife.

The lower trail near the waterfall

We heard toucans and howler monkeys nearby but didn’t get a glimpse. It was still beautiful, though.

Accessibility Note: Even though this entrance provides easy access, you will still need to hike along dirt steps and over rocks and roots. Conditions can be wet and slippery at times. We recommend footwear with good grips. Keep in mind also that there are a lot of steps to climb on the way back up. They do have a couple of benches for resting.

Steps to get back up to the rancho  Waterfall Access

After about eight minutes of walking from the rancho, you will come to a split in the trail. To the left, you will be able to visit the upper falls. To the right, the lower falls and river area. Both are just a few minutes from this fork. There is a sign and map at this intersection. 

Upper Falls

Reaching the upper falls, you will see a giant rocky cliff with wispy waterfalls trailing down. How much water will depend on the season and recent rain.

The cool thing about this access point is the cave that you can sit under. There was also a nice swimming area naturally made of rocks. Conditions for swimming were fine during our visit in July (early rainy season) but always use caution.

The trail lets you get close to the upper fallsLower Falls

Going back to the trail fork and down some more steps, you will reach the lower falls. This is the main event.

The lower falls come plummeting over another cliff into a wide pool. From below, you also can see the upper falls, so the combination is quite the photo opportunity.

Waterfall view from this access pointSwimming

The trail drops you off at a small sandy beach along the river. This is a good spot for swimming. When the river isn’t too strong, you could wade through the water to get up to the main waterfall pool. When we visited, the river was too strong due to recent rain.

The trail leads to this sandy beach area along the river

Although we couldn’t reach the main pool, it was great to be able to swim in the river. We watched people on the other side who accessed the waterfall from the original entrance slipping on the rocks and struggling to get to the pool. This was definitely an advantage of the Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park.

The river looking turbulent after recent rain (July)Other Trails

When getting our tickets, the staff told us about some additional trails they had made. They are all located near the waterfall and marked with signs. Doing them all would take about one hour.

We were more focused on the waterfall for this visit but hope to return again to check these out. If you’ve done them, leave us a comment below about the experience.

Return & Lunch

Having stayed at the waterfall for a couple of hours, we soon made our way back up to the rancho to catch our truck ride back to the top. Using the WiFi at the rancho, we messaged the office and they sent the truck down.

Back at the top, we enjoyed a delicious lunch (see options below) and mountain views. Lunch was 5,000 colones (about $10) and just what we needed after the hike and waterfall fun.

The vegetarian lunch plateHours, Directions, and Tickets

The Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park is open every day from 7:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. The last truck leaves the rancho at 4 p.m.

If you’re visiting during rainy season (May through November), we recommend getting an early start as rain is typical in the afternoon.

They have two options for lunch: arroz con pollo (rice with chicken) or a vegetarian casado (rice and beans with an egg, avocado, and salad).

For detailed directions and to purchase entrance tickets in advance, you can visit the Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park website.

Tips for What to Bring/WearFor the hike, we recommend hiking boots or study sneakers. The walk from the office to the rancho is steep in places and has loose gravel.If you have kids, we highly recommend water shoes. These will protect their feet and help them not slip when climbing on the rocks.Don’t forget a towel and change of clothesConclusion

We visited the Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park with some close friends and all really enjoyed it. In our opinion, this newer entrance is the best option for visiting the Nauyaca Waterfalls. We especially liked how easy everything was and the better access points/beach near the waterfall. If you are up for a slightly longer drive, we’d recommend giving it a try.

Have a question about visiting the Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan? Check out these posts:

Reptilandia – You’ll likely pass this reptile exhibit on the way to/from the Nauyaca Waterfall. There are tons of snakes, lizards, and turtles, nicely displayed in landscaped enclosures.

Don Emilio Coffee Tour – This family-run coffee farm offers an authentic tour in the mountains near Uvita.  

San Isidro de El General – Located about 45 minutes from Dominical, this locals’ city has a bustling downtown and one of the largest farmer’s markets in Costa Rica.

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Best Restaurants in Uvita

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

The small town of Uvita on Costa Rica’s southern Pacific coast is quickly turning into a culinary hotspot. Spread out among the thick rainforest are over 75 restaurants. You can find everything from casual spots serving burgers and pizza to upscale establishments with cocktail bars, vegan food, and international cuisine. Don’t worry, though, even fancier places in Costa Rica still have a laid-back feel. In this post, we’ll give 10 great options for restaurants in Uvita.

Restaurants in UvitaTribu

For upscale, creative food, head to Tribu.

The small, but varied, menu at Tribu features bowls made with simple, fresh ingredients. All the dishes we’ve had have been great, but we love the Koren-style chicken bowl and vegan bowl with homemade lentil croquettes. Tribu also has delicious smoothies. For the latest menu, check out their WhatsApp.

Tribu has only a few tables so be sure to make a reservation in advance if you’re visiting during high season (December-April). Closed Sunday and Monday.

Located just outside town on the road to the Uvita Waterfall.

Koren-style Chicken at TribuIndomitos Cafe & Bar

If you’re vegan or vegetarian, you will definitely want to check out Indomitos.

Indomitos has a big menu with things like veggie burgers, burritos with soy meat, tofu salads, and seitan tacos. They make a lot of their own sauces and rolls. The garlic veganaise on the Beyond Burger is divine! Open for lunch and dinner every day.

Located on Calle Uvita, the road going inland with BCR bank on the corner.

The outdoor dining room at IndomitosMestizo Tradicion y Fusion

Mestizo Restaurant draws inspiration from Peru, Japan, and of course, Costa Rica. You can get traditional Peruvian dishes like causa limeña and chaufa rice and also ceviche, sushi, Ramen soup, steak, and a variety of mains. The open-air dining room has an upscale ambiance. It’s a great option if you’re looking for a nice dinner out.

Metizo Tradicion y Fusion has a kids’ menu with things like a fish burrito and chicken quesadilla.

Located on the paved road to Bahia Ballena near the entrance to Highway 34.

Peruvian Chaufa Rice at Mestizo Tradicion y FusionRestaurante Kem-Vari

For traditional Costa Rican food, there’s Restaurante Kem-Vari.

This super simple soda (small local restaurant) serves all the classics like casados and rice dishes for lunch, and of course, gallo pinto (rice and beans) for breakfast. This is a popular spot with locals and a great place to experience the culture.

Located on Highway 34, left side, just south of the main area of Uvita. Across from Osa Mini-Golf.

A traditional casado with fish at Restaurante Kem-VariPizza Time

When you just want to kick back with some comfort food, we highly recommend Pizza Time. Their wood-fired pies are delicious. The large, laid-back dining room is perfect for families and groups. If you like bagels, be sure to check out their sister restaurant, Bagel Time, in the same building.

Located on Highway 34, right side, before you get to Maxi Pali.

Prosciutto Pizza at Pizza TimeMosaic Wine and Sushi Bar

This wine bar, café, and sushi restaurant just outside Uvita has a wonderful, welcoming atmosphere with good food and drinks to match.

Mosaic is no doubt the best place in town for wine. In their dedicated wine room, you’ll find an assortment of carefully curated bottles from around the world.

Mosaic emphasizes local ingredients and sustainability. In addition to sushi, they have paninis, charcuterie boards, and salads. Be sure to reserve a table in advance in high season.

Located on Calle Uvita, the road going inland with BCR bank on the corner.

Some of the reds available at Mosaic Wine BarBallena Bistro

A little south of Uvita is the popular Ballena Bistro. This restaurant has been around for many years. The food and hospitality were great on our first visit more than a decade ago and nothing has changed since.

The menu is varying but some highlights are the tuna poke bowl, mahi-mahi sandwich, and coco mango curry. Ballena Bistro has vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free choices. Be sure to try their homemade ice cream!

Located on Highway 34 in Ballena, right side of road.

Inside the Goathouse building where Ballena Bistro is locatedLe French Cafe

This busy café serves breakfast all day so if you’re craving eggs benedict or some authentic French crepes, it’s the place to go. Le French Cafe has other choices as well, including tartines (open-faced sandwiches), frozen smoothie bowls, croissant sandwiches, paninis, salads, and burgers.

Le French Cafe has a separate bakery where you can take home breads, pastries, and delicious desserts.

Located in Plaza Bahia Moana on the paved road to Bahia Ballena near the entrance to Highway 34.

Eggs Benedict at Le French CafeQue Tuanis Cafe

This laid-back restaurant right in the center of Bahia Ballena is run by friendly local women. They serve up a mix of traditional Costa Rican food and casual fare like burritos, burgers, and wraps. Que Tuanis Cafe is also a great spot to get coffee or ice cream. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Located across from the soccer field in Bahia Ballena.

Chalkboard menu at Que Tuanis CafeBar & Restaurant Los Laureles

Los Laureles is a long-standing favorite in Uvita.

Popular with expats who now call Uvita home, this small restaurant run by a local family serves traditional food like chifrijo and patacones. Other popular dishes are fish tacos, nachos, and burgers. The friendly owner, Cindy, is what makes the place.

Located on Calle Uvita, the road going inland with BCR bank on the corner.

Cheeseburger at Los LaurelesConclusion

As you can see, Uvita has a lot of awesome restaurant options. We hope this list gives some ideas on where to get great food on your visit.

Have a question about restaurants in Uvita or have one to add? Leave a comment below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts.

Uvita Waterfall: This small, but gorgeous, waterfall is just outside the main area of town. It’s easy to access and totally worth visiting if you have a couple of extra hours.

A Locals’ Guide to Dominical: The surfer town of Dominical is only 15 minutes north of Uvita and has its own great restaurants to try.

The Whale Tail at Marino Ballena National Park: The whale-tailed-shaped sandbar at Uvita’s national park is a fun place to explore at low tide.

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Costa Rica Itinerary from Liberia Airport

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

If you’re flying into Liberia Airport, you can visit some great destinations in Costa Rica. In this post, we’ll share a seven-day itinerary that will take you to some of the country’s top attractions. From vibrant tropical rainforest with exotic birds and animals to relaxing beach time, this one-week itinerary gives a taste of what makes this small Central American country unique.

We’ll also suggest some variations for those who have more time or are looking to go off-the-beaten path.

Itinerary Overview

This itinerary has you flying into Liberia Guanacaste Airport (LIR), Costa Rica’s smaller international airport located in northwestern Costa Rica.

From Liberia, you’ll head inland to the rainforest-filled Northern Highlands about 2.5 hours away. Here, you’ll get to see the iconic Arenal Volcano, enjoy nature, and have plenty of adventures.

The rainforest-covered La Fortuna/Arenal area

You’ll then travel to the coast for some beach time along the shimmering Pacific Ocean. This will be your longest drive at about 3 hours.

Guanacaste has some of Costa Rica’s most beautiful beaches so it will be well worth it. This region is also not far from Liberia, so you will be close to the airport for the end of your stay.

One of Guanacaste’s many beautiful beachesDays 1-4: Arrive in Liberia. Head to La Fortuna/Arenal.First Night

If your flight arrives in Liberia in the morning or early afternoon, you can travel to La Fortuna the same day. The trip takes about 2.5 hours so works whether you’re renting a car or planning to shuttle.

Part of the route from LIR to La Fortuna

We don’t recommend driving long distances in the dark. So if you’re arriving later in the afternoon or evening, you have a couple of options.

You could flip the itinerary to start at the beach (closer to the airport), then end in La Fortuna.

Or, if you’d like to keep the beach for last, you could stay in a hotel near the airport and head to La Fortuna the next morning. There aren’t many options for hotels near LIR, but the Hilton Garden Inn is a good one.

La Fortuna/Arenal Overview

La Fortuna is one of Costa Rica’s most popular destinations. Even with its growing popularity, we still love it and recommend it regularly to our readers and clients who we help with trip planning.

La Fortuna has a small, but busy, downtown with several shops and restaurants. Just outside this main area you’ll find tranquil rainforest and cascading waterfalls and rivers, with a few farm fields in between.

Charming park in downtown La Fortuna

The town is spread out so it’s easy to stay outside the busy tourist areas. Not only that, but it has great accommodation options.

Vacation rentals are abundant on sites like Airbnb and VRBO and are some of the most affordable in Costa Rica.

For hotels, you’ll find over 200 in and around La Fortuna. These are mostly smaller and locally owned. Options range from luxurious boutique hotels with elaborate hot springs to budget-friendly cabins and rooms. For more information, check out our post, La Fortuna Hotel Guide.

Gorgeous volcano view from a hotel in La Fortuna

To get around, we recommend a rental car in La Fortuna since the area is more spread out. To save 10%, check out our Rental Car Discount.

Activities in La Fortuna/Arenal

La Fortuna has a plethora of activities that offer something for everyone. Since there isn’t as much to do at the beach, we recommend making the most of your time. Here is an overview of what’s available.

At the top of most travelers’ lists is a hike near the base of Arenal Volcano. Although no longer erupting, it’s still amazing to see Arenal up close and walk the old lava rocks.

Other fun activities are zip lining and hanging bridges. The facilities in this area are some of the best in all of Costa Rica.

Hanging bridge at Sky Adventures in Arenal

La Fortuna is also wonderful for wildlife viewing. River float tours, sloth tours, night tours, and hikes at nature reserves are all great ways to see animals and birds.

If you’re craving something high adrenalin, canyoning/waterfall rappelling and whitewater rafting are two popular choices.

For lots more information on visiting La Fortuna, read our full destination guide or check out some of our favorite tours.

Wildlife watching on a river float tourDays 5-7: Beach Time in GuanacasteOverview

After four nights in La Fortuna, you’ll travel to Guanacaste. This region is unique because many of the beaches are calm coves and good for swimming. There are also surfing beaches, if that’s on your list.

While much of Guanacaste Province is within a reasonable 1-2 hour drive from Liberia Airport, in this itinerary, we’ll focus on northern Guanacaste.

Playa Hermosa is a small, charming beach town in northern Guanacaste. At about three hours from La Fortuna and only 30 minutes from Liberia Airport, it’s a great choice to limit travel time.

Aerial view of Playa Hermosa during rainy season. Note that in dry season, the jungle isn’t as lush.

If you’d prefer a larger town with more amenities, check out Playas del Coco just minutes south of Hermosa. Or Tamarindo, Guanacaste’s biggest and most popular beach town. Tamarindo is about four hours from La Fortuna and 1.25 hours from Liberia.

What to Expect in Playa Hermosa

Playa Hermosa is a small beach community with a main area backing the sand. Along its few roads and in the surrounding hills, you’ll find a handful of restaurants, small hotels, and modern condos. The beach itself is a wide cove, perfect for finding your own spot on the sand.

Beachfront dining in Playa Hermosa

Just 10 minutes away is Playas del Coco. Coco has many more restaurants, bars, amenities, and accommodations within walking distance to its dark gray sand beach.

Tip: You probably don’t need a car for your time in Playa Hermosa if you don’t want one. The beach is close and it’s easy to walk or taxi to get around. Some condos also offer golf cart rentals. You could drop off your rental car in La Fortuna, then take a shuttle to Playa Hermosa and the airport. Feel free to contact us through our Shuttle Booking page if you’d like any help with the arrangements. We work with excellent, reputable transportation companies.

Activities in Playa Hermosa

Of course, the main draw in Playa Hermosa is its gorgeous beach. You can explore the turquoise waters by kayak or jet ski or just take in the view from under the palms.

Calm water at Playa Hermosa’s main beach

For activities, catamaran or sailing tours are a great option in Guanacaste. These leave from Playas del Coco and take you up the coast for some great views and snorkeling. Sunsets can be amazing!

Playa Hermosa doesn’t have much else for activities locally, but day trips to places like Rincon de la Vieja (national park with volcanic features), Llanos de Cortez Waterfall, and Palo Verde (boat tour to see wildlife) are all possible.

Day 8: Fly Back Home

After three days oceanside, you’ll travel back to Liberia Airport (30 minutes) to head home.

Have More Time or Want to Go Off-the-Beaten Path?

If you have more than seven nights, we’d recommend adding a destination or two to the itinerary. A few nights in either Bijagua or Monteverde would make for a great loop.

Bijagua is a rural town brimming with jungle about 1.5 hours from La Fortuna. It’s starting to get busier due to its proximity to the bright blue Rio Celeste Waterfall, but remains a charming, quaint destination. Bijagua is a great spot for those looking for a more authentic travel experience. Check out our full post on Bijagua for more details.

The unforgettable Rio Celeste Waterfall near Bijagua

The Monteverde cloud forest is also well worth a stop for two or three nights.

This ecotourism destination in the high-elevation mountains is about 3.5 hours from La Fortuna along bumpy dirt roads. Although remote, it is well developed for tourism with tons of options for lodging and restaurants. Monteverde is primarily a nature destination. The most popular things to do are hanging bridges, hiking, night tours, birdwatching, and coffee tours.

Conclusion

We hope that this Costa Rica itinerary for flying in and out of Liberia Airport has gotten you excited for your trip. If you’re looking for more tips and information, here are some helpful articles to jumpstart your planning:

First-Time Visit to Costa Rica: Why You Should Go, What to Expect & Tips to Plan – Climate, safety, best times to visit, and lots more. Check out this article for an overview about the country.

Traveling to Costa Rica: The Basics – Gives practical information about visas and entry, currency/money, getting around, drinking water, etc.

Family Travel – Tips for traveling with kids based on our own experience living in Costa Rica with our two boys.

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Ciudad Colon: A Tranquil Suburb of San Jose

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Costa Rica’s capital of San Jose is much like any city in the world. It can be chaotic and filled with traffic. But just past the sprawling suburbs, giant malls, and office parks is Ciudad Colon. This small city has a lovely town center, forested hills, and a good selection of restaurants. In this post, we’ll tell you more.

Location and Landscape

Ciudad Colon is located on the western side of Costa Rica’s Central Valley. The small city is just 30-40 minutes from the heart of downtown San Jose and only 10-20 minutes from two upper class suburbs, Santa Ana and Escazu.

With nearby access to a major highway (Route 27), Ciudad Colon is an ideal commuter town.

Centered on a park with mature trees, playgrounds, pavilions, and sport courts, the downtown gently expands toward the forested mountains. A large river, the Rio Virilla, flows along the town’s northern edge.

Rio VirillaThings to Do in Ciudad ColonCiudad Colon Park & Playground

In the heart of Ciudad Colon is the central park. Here, you’ll find a modern playground surrounded by large shade trees. Just adjacent is an outdoor track, basketball courts, and some kids’ climbing walls.

Central park and playground

Across the street is a historic building and antique pavilion. The courtyard has some restaurants serving local food, shops, and a municipal arts center.

Open air courtyard

Several churches and a large public school are also very close to the central park.

These diverse gathering spaces build a strong feeling of community when visiting the downtown.

Hiking & Mountain Biking

In the forested hills around Ciudad Colon are several private land reserves that offer hiking or mountain biking.

During our stay, we visited Senderos Colon. This property has over 30 km (18 miles) of trails for mountain biking, trail running, or hiking. It’s also pet friendly.

One of the trails at Sendero Colon

During a two-hour hike, we enjoyed the many types of trees and shrubs along the varied terrain. We also saw several interesting birds, like Long-tailed Manakins and a Montezuma Oropendola.

Amphitheater Villa (Anfiteatro de Villa)

For an interesting cultural experience there is Amphitheater Villa.

This network of manmade caves dug into a cliffside is a favorite among locals. Each cave and passageway is decorated with religious, historical, or cultural elements from around the world. Tour guides explain the significance of each room.

Entering the caves at Amphitheater Villa

While overall this wasn’t our kind of thing, we did appreciate the work that went into making the caves and elaborate decorations. One section was Egyptian themed and had beautiful hieroglyphs.

Amphiteater Villa also has two onsite restaurants and some outdoor sculpture gardens.

Playland

For rainy days with the kids, you can head to Playland.

This indoor playground on the outskirts of Ciudad Colon is the perfect place for kids to burn off some energy. We spent several hours here one day, and our kids loved it. There are large slides and ball pits, plus coffee and snacks for the waiting adults. Bring socks as they are required!

Indoor slides and play structures at PlaylandOther Nearby Activities

Since Ciudad Colon is so close to the city, visitors can take easy trips downtown.

In San Jose center are three popular museums, the National Museum, Gold Museum, and Jade Museum. The historic National Theater is also beautiful and worth a stop.

Costa Rica’s National Museum

For those looking for entertainment and shopping, Multiplaza, in the nearby city of Escazu, is a large mall with over 160 stores, a movie theater, and restaurants.

Multiplaza has both large international brands like Nike, Calvin Klein, and GNC as well as smaller local shops and kiosks. We especially enjoy visiting the Multiplaza around Christmas when elaborate decorations are set up.    

Ciudad Colon Restaurants

Our stay in Ciudad Colon was during Semana Santa (Easter Week) so many restaurants were closed. Fortunately, we still found a few great choices.

Costa Rica Craft Brewing Company

This was Costa Rica’s first craft brewery. When we moved to Costa Rica in 2013, they were basically the only ones that offered an IPA!

Now, Costa Rica Craft Brewing Company has a complete lineup of tasty artisanal beers. Their super casual bar/restaurant, La Planta Brewpub, serves up all the favorites plus some experimental prototypes.

A flight of craft beers at La Planta Brewpub

For food, there are tacos, nachos, wings, salads, burgers, and flatbreads, or mains like steaks and surf & turf.

From the restaurant, you can view the huge brewing room with tanks through a window. If you’d like a tour, be sure to make arrangements in advance.

Las Terrazas del Cañon

This restaurant at Amphitheater Villa sits perched on the hill, overlooking the caves and cliff mentioned above. The large menu offers typical Costa Rican dishes like arroz con pollo (rice with chicken) or more international offerings like steaks, salmon, and pastas. For the kids, there are chicken strips, hamburgers, or fajitas.   

Conservatorium

For an elegant dining experience, we highly recommend Conservatorium.

This upscale restaurant with glass walls offers an innovative take on contemporary cuisine. Focusing on fresh, local ingredients and aged meats, the dishes are plated with an artist’s touch. A chefs’ laboratory sits next to the kitchen and is where new ideas are tested.

Playful bread starter at Conservatorium. Which of the rocks is actually a roll?Accommodations in Ciudad Colon

There are only a couple of very small hotel options in Ciudad Colon.

For more choices, travelers can stay nearby in Santa Ana. A few options in the Lindora area of Santa Ana include Aloft San Jose, Hilton Garden Inn Santa Ana, and the Studio Hotel, which we have stayed at many times.

The Studio Hotel is a comfortable mid-range option. The hotel is decorated with lots of art, making it somewhat unique. One of our favorite restaurants, Lo Spago, is located right out front.

Other than hotels, Ciudad Colon has some vacation rentals. During our stay, we rented a house through Airbnb in a good location overlooking the mountains and river. For tips on using vacation rentals in Costa Rica, read our post, Vacation Rentals in Costa Rica: Safety & What to Look for.

Conclusion

Ciudad Colon was the perfect mountain escape for our family. We really enjoyed the rural setting, family-friendly downtown, and convenience to other sites in and around San Jose. We’ll definitely be back!

Have a question about visiting Ciudad Colon or want to share your thoughts? Leave us a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan? Check out these posts:

Heredia, Costa Rica: City Guide – On the other side of San Jose is the historic city of Heredia. This is also a nice place to use as a home base for exploring the Central Valley.

How to Spend 1 or 2 Days in San Jose – For more about museums, restaurants, and markets in downtown San Jose, check out this post.

Rental Car Discount – If visiting Ciudad Colon, we recommend a rental car to get around since it’s more spread out. Use our discount to save 10% and get free extras.

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A Crocodile Safari Boat Tour on the Tarcoles

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

The Tarcoles River on Costa Rica’s central Pacific coast is probably the most popular place in the country to view crocodiles. Every day hundreds of visitors stop along Route 34 at the “Crocodile Bridge” to see the giant reptiles below. For an even closer look, we recently took a boat tour up the river. In this post, we’ll share our experience on the crocodile safari boat tour, what we saw, and how you can do it too.

Location and Logistics

Our tour started in the small fishing village of Tarcoles. Tarcoles is one of the closest beach towns from San Jose (1.25 hours). Most tourists pass through it on their way to Jaco, Manuel Antonio, Dominical, and Uvita.

A lot of travelers just stop at the so-called Crocodile Bridge to see the many crocodiles that hang out below. To plan that stop, you can read our article.

But if you have a couple of extra hours, it’s fun to see these crocs up close and learn a bit more about them on a boat tour. You also can see a lot of tropical birds.

Note: Most tour companies have secure parking to keep your luggage safe.

Starting Our Tour

At the large Jungle Crocodile Safari building in Tarcoles, we met our guide, Gustavo. He invited us to enjoy some coffee and fruit juice while we waited for more people to arrive. Soon our group of about 12 were whisked down a jungle trail to the river’s edge.

Boarding the Boat

Several river boats were docked at the edge of the swift and murky Tarcoles River. We stepped into one and were greeted by the captain.

As we sat, we were all given a pamphlet with birds and animal pictures. Each one had a number. As the tour progressed, Gustavo would call off the name and number of each bird or animal so that we could follow along. This was a nice touch that kept our young kids (ages 5 and 8) really engaged.

Boats used on the tourCrocodiles

Just a few minutes off the dock, we met our first crocodile.

Gustavo pointed out a snout that looked much like a weathered rock at the water’s edge. He told us that it was an alpha-male crocodile know as Captain Hook. They estimate that this croc is around 70 years old and measures up to about 16 feet long (4.5 meters)!

Captain Hook

Next to Captain Hook was a smaller female crocodile only about 8 feet long (2.4 meters). It was much more shy and swam away as we approached.

Gustavo explained that each male crocodile has its own territory on the river. Several females can share a territory with a male but if another male comes too close, they will fight.

Throughout our 1.5 hours on the river, we spotted around a dozen different crocodiles of all different sizes.

At one spot up the river, we saw a mother crocodile protecting her five small babies. Gustavo explained that the mother guards the nest and hatchlings for about three months. She can even carry the babies around in her mouth to move them to safety.  

A mother and baby crocCaring for the Crocs

During our tour, Gustavo pointed out that it is important not to feed the crocodiles. Some companies do this, he said, but it can change their natural habits. It is also illegal.

He also showed us some trash that had washed up along the river’s edge. Gustavo explained that because the Tarcoles River originates near the city of San Jose, it collects a lot of trash on its journey to the ocean.

Fortunately, there are a lot of groups helping to clean up the river, including local companies like them and a conservation group called Mareblu.

Tropical Birds

Besides crocodiles, the other highlight on the safari boat cruise was all the cool birds that we spotted. During our short tour, Gustavo pointed out at least 20 different species.

A Cattle Egret, Great Egret, and Juvenile Great Egret

Some highlights for us were the Common Black Hawk, Osprey, Green Heron, Boat-billed Heron, Tri-colored Heron, Northern Jacana, Wood Stork, Scarlet Macaw Parrot, and Magnificent Frigatebird.

A Boat-billed heron

One crazy thing we witnessed was seeing a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron eat a small crocodile. Gustavo told us that these birds are one of the main predators for crocs, but they are also important to keep the crocodile population balanced.

Rivermouth & Mangroves

After motoring upstream for a while, we traveled downstream to where the river finally reaches the sea. Here were large sandbars with even more crocodiles basking in the sun.

We also encountered the area’s largest alpha male, measuring almost 17 feet long (5 meters). This one had recently been kicked out of his territory farther upstream.

Gustavo told us he was healing his wounds with the salt water. The battle he had with the other large male had left him pretty beat up and scarred.

We also took a quick trip into the nearby mangrove forest. Through a side inlet, we motored through the lush trees. At one point the captain turned off the boat motor so that we could enjoy all the bird calls around us.

Checking out the mangroves

Near the mangroves we were lucky to catch a glimpse of some howler monkeys as well. These lazy monkeys were high in the trees, watching us.

Howler monkeys relaxing in the treesConclusion

After a quick motor back up the river, we waved goodbye to Gustavo and the captain. The crocodile and bird safari boat tour was a fun and memorable experience for our family. Our kids are still holding onto their pamphlets, and we’re all still thinking about those giant crocs we saw!

Booking a Crocodile and Bird Safari Boat Tour

If you would like to experience the crocodile and bird safari for yourself, we would be happy to help set it up for you. Just click on the product below. Booking through us costs the same and supports our website.

Crocodile Safari Boat Tour – From Jaco
Price: From: $31.00 +VAT
Select options
Cost

$31 per person adults, $27 per person children ages 4-12. Rates plus 13% tax. Children under 4 are free.

*Transportation from Jaco or Herradura is available for an additional $25 per person plus 13% tax.

Duration

About 1.5 hours

What’s Included

Bilingual naturalist guide, paper wildlife pamphlet, fruit juice, and coffee.

Have a question about taking a crocodile river boat adventure on the Tarcoles River? Ask us below. Looking for more fun things to do near Jaco? Check out these posts:

Tortuga Island Catamaran: Beach & Snorkel Tour from Jaco – This is a fun day trip to a beautiful white sand beach where you can snorkel and do other activities.

Birding in Carara National Park – Close to the Tarcoles River is an excellent national park for bird enthusiasts.

Jaco Street Art Tour – Many international and local artists have left their mark on the streets of Jaco. On this walking or bike tour, you’ll see giant murals, graffiti, and historic paintings.  

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Sloth Tours in Costa Rica: What’s Ethical?

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Those visiting Costa Rica often have one animal at the top of their wish list. Sloths! These furry, slow-moving creatures have captured the hearts of millions. With their kind eyes and smile-shaped fur pattern, who wouldn’t love them? But be careful, sloths have become big business in some parts of Costa Rica. In this article, we’ll give some background on sloth tours in Costa Rica so you can have an ethical encounter to remember. 

What’s Happening with Sloths?

Costa Rica has many healthy populations of sloths living in the wild. However, with their popularity, some people are taking advantage for their own financial gain. Here are a few examples to be aware of.

Moving Sloths

Sloths generally live in rainforests, cloud forests, and humid tropical forests. This means that some parts of the country, like Guanacaste on the northern Pacific coast, are not suitable for them. Sloths just don’t live in tropical dry forests. But sloth tours are still popping up there. 

This is because people have taken sloths from their natural environment and moved them to these new areas. Since they don’t have the correct food and habitat, the sloths often become malnourished and stressed. If kept there, they will die.

If taking a sloth tour from Guanacaste, make sure you are going on a long day trip inland to where sloths live naturally.

A three-toed sloth in its natural rainforest habitatGrouping Sloths Together

Even in areas where wild sloths are common like in La Fortuna/Arenal, there’s a lot of competition for sloth tours.

Some businesses have reportedly captured and released many sloths together on small private properties. This makes it so that you are guaranteed to see one during a visit.

Sloth sightings should never be guaranteed.

These animals are very territorial and mostly solitary. Having many together causes fighting between the sloths and a lot of stress. If you see a few sloths on a property, that may be normal. But a half-dozen or more in a small geographic area could mean that something suspicious is going on.  

Close Encounters

People are getting too close to sloths. Unscrupulous guides allow people to take selfies, feed, or even hold a sloth. This is illegal and harmful to the animals.

In 2019, Costa Rica’s tourism sector launched a campaign to stop animal selfies. It cited a World Animal Protection International survey that listed Costa Rica as the 7th worst location for inappropriate wildlife photos.

We all want good photos to remember but make sure to take them from a distance. Also, don’t use a flash or make too much noise when photographing a sloth. Sloths live quiet lives and require their own space to stay healthy.

How to See Sloths in Costa Rica Ethically

There are two main ways you can safely see sloths on your vacation to Costa Rica: on a nature walk at a national park or reserve or at a wildlife rehabilitation center.

A two-toed sloth at a wildlife center near San JoseSeeing Sloths in the Wild

Costa Rica has two species of sloth, the two-toed sloth and the three-toed sloth. Their habitats overlap but they are completely different from one another.

The best way to encounter a sloth in the wild is to hire a certified naturalist guide. These guides are trained to know where sloths hang out. They can teach you a lot about the species you are seeing.

Guides also have powerful scopes that will let you see a sloth close up. Not only that, but they’re often able to take photos through the scope with your phone so you can have an up-close image without bothering the animal.

Close up of a sloth using a scopeWhere to See Sloths in Costa Rica

Some good destinations to see sloths include Costa Rica’s central and southern Pacific coast (Manuel Antonio, Dominical, Uvita, and the Osa Peninsula), the Caribbean coast (Tortuguero, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, and Manzanillo), and the north-central region (La Fortuna, Bijagua/Rio Celeste, Sarapiqui, and Monteverde).

This isn’t an all-inclusive list but a good start.

In La Fortuna/Arenal, there’s a nice sloth and bird tour we’ve taken with a guide to a nature reserve. We saw a few sloths living in the rainforest around the property. This is a good option for an ethical sloth tour. 

A sloth we saw on a sloth and bird tour in La FortunaVisiting a Wildlife Rehab Center

Another great way to see sloths is at a wildlife rehabilitation center.

There are several centers around Costa Rica that do important work. These facilities bring in injured or confiscated animals and try to release them when healed.

Sometimes sloths must remain in captivity because of the extent of their injury or stress they have experienced. These animals then act as ambassadors for spreading knowledge about sloths.

Here area a few wildlife rehab centers that we have enjoyed visiting.

Toucan Rescue Ranch

Located near San Jose, this facility offers a unique tour where you can have coffee with a sloth. Staying a safe distance, you’ll observe the sloth while it does its daily enrichment activities. Learn more in our article, Toucan Rescue Ranch: Wildlife and Sloth Tour.

Observing a sloth at Toucan Rescue RanchKids Saving the Rainforest

On Costa Rica’s central Pacific coast near Manuel Antonio is Kids Saving the Rainforest.

For decades this group has been helping local wildlife, including sloths. At their facility you can meet a couple of the resident sloths and hear their story. Learn more through our article, Kids Saving the Rainforest.

Proyecto Asis

Located near La Fortuna/Arenal, Proyecto Asis has been taking in animals in need for over 20 years. They are also an important watchful eye for what has been happening to sloths in recent years. Their wildlife center tour has an optional volunteering element as well.

Jaguar Rescue Center

Located along the southern Caribbean coast, this rescue center takes in many sloths that have, unfortunately, been electrocuted, attacked by dogs, or hit by cars. Some will never leave the center but do become important educational ambassadors. Read more here: Jaguar Rescue Center Wildlife Tour in Puerto Viejo.

The sloth enclosure at Jaguar Rescue CenterConclusion

Seeing a sloth on your trip to Costa Rica can be a highlight. But don’t forget, these celebrity animals are sensitive and real. If you take a sloth tour, make sure the company is operating in an ethical way. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and express your concerns. This will make everyone realize that authentic experiences are essential and what we need to keep the sloth population healthy and smiling.

Have a question about sloth tours in Costa Rica? Ask us below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

A Sloth and Bird Tour in La Fortuna: This guided tour is a good option for seeing sloths in the wild in an ethical way.

Bijagua: A Gateway to the Rio Celeste – This small town is one of the best places in Costa Rica to see sloths.

Sustainability: Check out our Sustainability section for articles on sustainable hotels and activities.

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A Sloth and Bird Tour in La Fortuna

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

The rainforests in and around La Fortuna are a great place to see wildlife, especially sloths. With the help of a good guide, you can sometimes see multiple sloths during a hike. While sloth sightings should never be guaranteed (more on this below), guides know where to look and have scopes to help point them out. During a walk, you’ll usually see lots of other wildlife too. In this post, we’ll share our experience taking a sloth and bird tour in La Fortuna.

Location and Background

La Fortuna/Arenal is one of Costa Rica’s most popular destinations. Even with all the visitors, though, it still has a ton of wildlife living in its vast jungle. In the downtown alone, you can hear parakeets squawking in the park and see iguanas basking on rooftops.

Sloth tours and sloth trails near La Fortuna have become very popular in recent years. Unfortunately, sometimes these tours or the properties they go through are not always reputable (think capturing sloths to put them on display).

Before taking our tour, we made sure that we would be going on an ethical sloth tour. Having worked with this tour company through our travel agency for almost a decade, we felt reassured by their very serious take on the situation.

Starting the Sloth and Bird Tour

Our tour started at the operator’s office in downtown La Fortuna just after breakfast. Here, we jumped into a van with another family and our naturalist guide, David.

After some introductions, David told us that we would be visiting a nearby nature reserve to search for sloths, birds, reptiles, and anything else we could find.

After about 20 minutes in the van, we arrived at the Mariolas Trail (Sendero Las Mariolas).

The Mariolas Trail

Hopping out of the van, our small group followed David to the entrance.

This private reserve is on the outskirts of La Fortuna. Once a dairy farm, the property has been allowed to regenerate since 2018. In just that short time, the jungle has started to take over once again.

Our small group heading down the trailFirst Sightings

Just steps onto the trail, David began to point out interesting plants and flowers. Some beautiful heliconia flowers were attracting butterflies. He also showed us cacao (chocolate) trees that had strange looking fruits. Next, we walked through a small organic garden where herbs, fruits, and local vegetables were growing.

On the other side, back on the trail, we had our first cool bird sighting. It was a Crested Guan, a sort of wild turkey that lives up in the trees. This one was perched in the shade, assuming we didn’t see it.

A Crested Guan trying to hide in a treeSeeking Out Sloths

Leading us into a clearing, David scanned the nearby trees. He said that a few days ago, he had seen a sloth in this area.

We learned that sloths often stay in the same general place, feeding and sleeping in their favorite trees before moving to another spot. They are very territorial.   

David had just about given up when he suddenly got excited. Setting up his scope, he explained that the sloth was high in the branches behind another tree. Our group all looked up but couldn’t locate it.

Taking turns looking through his powerful scope, we all finally caught a glimpse of the furry sloth and its smiling face. This was a three-toed sloth, one of the two types found in Costa Rica.  

David even took some photos for us with our phones through the scope.

A three-toed sloth through the scopeSpotting a Toucan

Just down the trail a large bird flew overhead and landed on a branch. It was a Yellow-necked Toucan. The sizable bird was tilting its long beak from side to side, checking its surroundings. Soon it began calling with a high-pitched squeak.

A Yellow-necked toucan

David set up his scope again so that everyone could take a closer look. Then, he told us a bit about how these toucans are actually quite fierce. They will even raid the nests of other birds to eat their eggs, he said.

Our son checking out the toucan through the scopeOther Interesting Birds

As David led us around the trails to a pond, we got a glimpse of some more exotic birds.

There was a family of Boat-billed Herons sleeping in a tree over the water. David explained that these nocturnal birds have big eyes that allow them to hunt fish, frogs, and other creatures at night. 

Below in the marsh, a Northern Jacana was busily moving around the shallow water. And darting through the trees above were a Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Grayish Saltator, and Buff-throated Saltator.

A Northern Jacana feeding in the pondTwo-toed Sloths

On the other side of the property, we cut through a different trail. Here, we came across another tour group looking at a sloth. When it was our turn, David set up his scope again. But to our surprise, it was not just one, but two sloths!

David explained that normally you will not see two sloths this close to each other, but these were a mother and baby. They were Costa Rica’s other type, the two-toed sloth.

We learned that the baby two-toed sloth will stay with its mother for more than a year. Since they were not in the same tree, David said the baby was probably starting the weaning process. It would soon be off on its own.

This little furball is a baby slothOther Wildlife

While walking the easy trails of the Mariolas property, we were lucky to see lots of other cool wildlife.

Some highlights were a family of bats sleeping under a banana leaf, a prehistoric-looking lizard called an emerald basilisk, and some tiny blue-jean poison dart frogs. David gave us interesting facts and information about each one.

A close up of a blue jean poison dart frog (harmless to humans)Conclusion

Back in the van, David offered us cold waters and told us that we’d stop by the company’s farm for a snack. There, we all sipped drinks and ate empanadas filled with homemade cheese and fresh fruits while talking about the awesome wildlife we had seen. It was the perfect ending for our tour.     

Delicious empanada snackPlanning a Sloth and Bird TourBooking a Tour

If you’d like to experience a sloth and bird tour for yourself, please use the link below to make a booking. We will make arrangements with the same company we used. They have certified naturalist guides that really do care about the animals and environment. Booking through us costs the same and helps support our website. Once you request a booking, we’ll get back to you by email. You won’t pay until your reservation is confirmed.

Sloth and Bird Trail (Group Tour) – From La Fortuna
Price: From: $69.00 +VAT
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Sloth and Bird Trail (Private Tour) – From La Fortuna
Price: From: $95.00 +VAT
Select options
 

Tour Cost

Group Tour (15 people maximum): $69 per person adults; $47 per person children ages 4-11. Rates plus 13% tax.

Private Tour (only your family/group): $95 per person adults; $56 per person children ages 4-11. Rates plus 13% tax. Children under 4 are free.

Offered

7:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.

Duration

3.5-4 hours door to door (approximate)

Includes

Bilingual, certified naturalist guide with spotting scope, round-trip transportation from your hotel or vacation rental, drinks, snack, and entrance fee.

Our guide teaching us about native fruits and vegetablesMinimum Age

The minimum age is 4.

If you are traveling with children under 4, we recommend a private tour with only your family.

Trail Conditions and Accessibility

The Mariolas Trail is not handicap accessible but is flat and well maintained.

This is a short hike (about 1.25 miles) so a good option for families or anyone looking for an easy hike to see wildlife.

Have a question about taking a sloth and bird tour in La Fortuna? Leave a comment below. Looking for more activities that involve sloths? Check out these posts:

Toucan Rescue Ranch: Wildlife and Sloth Tour – This animal rescue and rehabilitation center near San Jose is a great way to see animals like sloths up close.

The Wildlife of Manuel Antonio National Park – Another hotspot for sloths is Manuel Antonio National Park. Check out this post for more info.

Jaguar Rescue Center Wildlife Tour in Puerto Viejo – Located on the Caribbean coast, this non-profit helps many animals but especially sloths that unfortunately get injured by power lines, dogs, etc.

The post A Sloth and Bird Tour in La Fortuna appeared first on Two Weeks in Costa Rica.

Rincon de la Vieja: The Lesser Known Santa Maria Sector

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

A popular day trip to see volcanoes and tropical forest from Guanacaste is Rincon de la Vieja National Park. The most visited entrance of this park by far is Las Pailas sector. However, just a short distance away is a much more remote ranger station. In this post, we’ll tell you all about visiting the lesser known Rincon de la Vieja Santa Maria sector.

About Rincon de la Vieja National Park

Rincon de la Vieja National Park is a 14,300 hectare (35,336 acre) protected area in Guanacaste Province in northwestern Costa Rica.

The national park has two sectors: Las Pailas and Santa Maria. Between the two sectors, you can see a lot of volcanic features like steam vents, mud pots, acid pools, and hot springs.

View of Rincon de la Vieja Volcano from the road

Additionally, the land around the national park has a lot to offer. In this rural area, you’ll find thick tropical forest, impressive river canyons, seasonal waterfalls, and sunny prairie-like fields.
For more information, read our post about the area, Curubande de Liberia: A Country Town Near Rincon de la Vieja.

Rincon is also a nice place to visit on a day trip from beach towns in Guanacaste like Tamarindo, Flamingo, Playas del Coco, and Playa Hermosa.

Rincon’s Santa Maria Sector

Rincon de la Vieja’s Santa Maria sector is a lot less visited than Las Pailas sector. This is probably because it is harder to access and doesn’t have as many volcanic features. As we explain below, though, it’s still well worth a visit.

For a full description of the trails at Las Pailas sector, read our post, Rincon de la Vieja National Park: Volcanic Vents and Tropical Forest.   

How this Sector Compares  

Rincon’s Santa Maria sector may not have as much variety when it comes to volcanic features, but it can be a great fit for some visitors.

The biggest draw is that the Santa Maria sector is not busy.

Las Pailas is a popular destination for package tourists and can have busloads of visitors at peak times. At Santa Maria, however, you may only see a handful of other people. During our visit in January (high season), we only saw six people on the trails, plus a few scientists doing research.

The ranger station at Santa Maria sector – only a handful of people and some horses around

As far as difficulty, we’d say that for the average tourist, Las Pailas is the better choice. The trails are well kept and have bridges over all the streams.

The trails at the Santa Maria sector are more rustic (though still well kept) and you will need to cross some streams (see Trails section, below). These crossings could be a challenge, depending on recent rain.

Our kids crossing a stream along the trail at Santa Maria sectorTrails Overview

Rincon de la Vieja National Park’s Santa Maria sector has one main trail that starts near the ranger station and ends at some beautiful natural hot springs.

Four shorter trails off the main trail lead to other points of interest like waterfalls. There is also a connecting trail that continues all the way to Las Pailas sector for those who want a challenge.

Trail Map

Note: A sign at the beginning of the hike gives roundtrip distances for each trail, which is a little confusing. For example, the main trail is 3 km (1.8 miles) each way, but the sign says it is 6 km (3.6 miles). Below we give the distances each way.

Hot Springs Trail (Sendero Aguas Termales) – 3 km (1.8 miles) each way

The main trail at the Santa Maria sector is the Hot Springs Trail.

This trail is mostly flat, but you do need to cross several streams.

During our visit (January), there hadn’t been much rain so we were able to cross most of the streams using rocks or logs. At one stream, however, we did have to wade through. During rainier times of year (May through November), crossing could be much more difficult.

Crossing one of the streams using the rocks and a rope

The main trail ends at the focal point of the hike: a beautiful river with natural hot springs.

The thermal river

Like other rivers in the Rincon area, the volcano’s powerful thermal energy heats the water.

Although the park has created small pools with rocks that look inviting for swimming, you are not supposed to go in the water anymore (this was previously allowed). A small sign says that the pools are a sensitive environment and to not enter.

Instead, we walked along the rocks and dipped our toes. There’s also a shady spot to relax and have a snack/picnic before turning back. See note below regarding ticks in this area.

Side Trails

Four trails go off the Hot Springs Trail. Here is some information about them, listed in order starting at the ranger station.

Sendero Colibri (Hummingbird Trail) – 0.5 km (0.3 miles) long

The Hummingbird Trail starts just after the camping area/bathrooms on the right. It passes through thick forest and has some small ups and downs before looping back to the main trail.

Along the first part of the Hummingbird Trail, you can see the structural remains of an old sugar cane mill. Sugar cane is one of Guanacaste’s most important crops. The mill along the trail was part of a farm that existed before the national park was formed in 1973.

Remains of a trapiche (sugar cane mill)Sendero Pailas de Agua Fria (Cold Water Pots Trail) – 1 km (0.6 miles) each way

After hiking the main trail (Hot Springs Trail) for about 0.7 km (0.4 miles), you will come to the Cold Water Pots Trail on your right. We didn’t do this because the ranger warned us it might be too hard for our family (our kids were 4 and 8 at the time).  

At the end of this trail there are supposed to be some interesting small pools with hot water bubbling up.

Sendero Bosque Encantado (Enchanted Forest Trail) – 100 meters (109 yards) each way

Next is the Enchanted Forest Trail. This short trail winds over some mossy rocks and around large primary forest trees. At the end is a swift stream with large boulders. There are multiple small waterfalls cascading down the slope.  

Small waterfalls along the Enchanted Forest TrailSendero Morpho (Morpho Trail) – 300 meters (328 yards) each way

Shortly after the Enchanted Forest Trail is the Morpho Trail. This trail is easy but gets steep at the end when you climb down to the waterfall. At the bottom is a beautiful 4.5-meter (15-foot) cascade. This is a good place to do some swimming as long as the waterfall isn’t too strong.

Gorgeous cascade on the Morpho TrailOther Trails

There are two more trails in the Santa Maria Sector.

The first goes to a mirador (lookout) behind the ranger station. This trail is a short 410 meters (437 yards) but was closed when we visited.

The other trail cuts off the Hot Springs Trail and leads all the way to Las Pailas sector. That trail is 8 km (5 miles) each way from ranger station to ranger station. The trail entrance is about halfway down the Hot Springs Trail.

What You’ll See on the HikeWild Forest

Besides the hot springs, the vast forest within the Santa Maria sector was the highlight for us. If you’re looking for a quiet place to appreciate nature, it’s a lovely spot. Along the trails, you can find dozens of different types of trees, bushes, cactus, ferns, and interesting flowers.

Old growth trees and thick jungle on one of the side trailsAnimals

While we didn’t see many animals on our hike, the Santa Maria sector is home to a lot of wildlife. Deer, white-faced monkeys, tapir (Central America’s largest land mammal), peccary, and even jaguar can be found in the park with a little luck.

One wildlife highlight for us was seeing a family of spider monkeys. Spider monkeys are somewhat rare to see in Costa Rica and prefer very remote areas, so this was a special treat.

Spider monkeys hanging out in the trees near the camping areaBirds

Much of the habitat we went through was tall trees. Although we could hear lots of birds up in the canopy, it was hard to spot them.

Two highlights were the Northern Barred-Woodcreeper and Pale-billed Woodpecker. We heard the woodpecker before we saw it, as it was busily pecking away at the side of a tree.

A Pale-billed WoodpeckerInsects

Insect lovers will love the Santa Maria sector. Walking slowly, we were able to see dozens of different bugs. There were caterpillars, hornets, bees, beetles, leafcutter ants, butterflies, cicadas, and much more.

We even saw a velvet ant, which is said to have one of the most painful stings in the world. In some places, similar species are called the cow killer. Surprisingly, these are not ants but a type of wingless wasp. Keep your distance!

A velvet antPlanning Your Visit to Rincon’s Santa Maria SectorWhat to Bring/WearInsect Repellent (IMPORTANT!)

As soon as we arrived and opened our car door, small biting flies started attacking us. We quickly put on repellent and that did help.

Another major annoyance was ticks. After our visit, we found dozens of very small ticks/mites on our legs. We quickly removed them, but they left itchy bites for days. Our kids had the most, probably because they went off the trail more.

These pests probably change seasonally but the Santa Maria sector was wilder than we expected. We suggest staying on the trail, not brushing up against plants, wearing long pants, and using a good insect repellent. Check out our recommendations in our Packing post.

Food/Water

There are no stores in the area and nothing is sold at the ranger station. Be sure to bring everything you will need. Extra water is important since this area can be very hot and dry, with temperatures into mid-90s °F (35 °C) or hotter.

Clothing/Footwear

Lightweight, breathable clothing is best. Pants will help keep ticks off.

Wear closed-toed shoes because of ants and possible biting insects.

Buying Tickets

Tickets for Rincon de la Vieja National Park must be purchased in advance through the park service’s website. You need to register for an account first. English is available.  

In-person tickets are not sold and you will be turned away or have to purchase them on your phone (if you have a signal). It’s best to buy in advance as the reservations’ system can be clunky.

Hours – Santa Maria Sector

Thursday to Monday, 8:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

*Closed on Tuesday & Wednesday

Cost

Foreigners: $16.95 adults. $5.65 children (2-12 years old).

Citizens and Legal Residents: ₡1,130 adults, ₡565 children (2-12 years old).

Children under 2 are free.

Camping

The Santa Maria sector is one of the few national parks in Costa Rica that allows camping. They have raised platforms for tenting, potable water, a bathroom with showers, and grills you can use. The price is an extra $4 per person per day.

Accessibility

Rincon de la Vieja’s Santa Maria sector is not handicap-accessible. Las Pailas sector is a much better option for people with limited mobility. It has a paved universal trail.   

Driving to Rincon de la Vieja’s Santa Maria SectorFrom Curubande de Liberia or Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin

We drove from Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin near Las Pailas sector. To go this way, take the access road toward the Rio Negro Hot Springs. Continue past the springs and you will come to a gate. Someone working will open it for you. Note: To get back through later, you will need to have a hotel wristband or receipt from when you entered the Hacienda Guachipelin property.

Stay left at any splits in the road. Finally, you will come to a hairpin left turn, going up a hill. At the top there is a sign pointing to the Santa Maria sector. Continue on the gravel road to the park entrance. From Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin, the drive is about 30 minutes. No 4×4 required.

Road to the park entranceFrom Liberia

If you are coming from Liberia, you can drive through town to connect to Route 918. From Route 1, take Ave. 25 de Julio 11 blocks east. Then take a right onto Calle 7. Continue for 3 blocks and take a left onto Ave. 6/Route 918. This road continues into the countryside. After about 40-50 minutes, you will take a left to go toward the park entrance. Continue 10 more minutes and you will arrive. We are not sure of the road conditions (share in the comments if you go).   

Conclusion

We didn’t know what to expect when visiting the Rincon de la Vieja Santa Maria sector. While we’re glad we did it, we probably would have enjoyed it more before having kids. The hike was a bit long for them, there wasn’t a ton of wildlife to see, and they were disappointed they couldn’t swim in the hot springs. That being said, us adults enjoyed it very much and would definitely go back.

Have a question about visiting Rincon’s Santa Maria sector? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to help plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Rincon de la Vieja National Park (Las Pailas Sector) – The much easier to access Las Pailas sector has lots of amazing volcanic features. Read our tips for visiting.

Oropendola Waterfall: An Easy-to-Access Waterfall in Guanacaste – This gorgeous waterfall is right outside Las Pailas sector.

Rio Negro Hot Springs – Heated by the same thermal energy as the national park, these nearby springs are perfect to soothe your sore muscles after hiking.

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