Matthew Houde's Blog, page 6

San Mateo: A Local Town with Eco-Communities

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Perched in the hills above Costa Rica’s central Pacific coast is the charming town of San Mateo. This traditional locals’ town has a nice mix of countryside and tropical forest, with a small, but vibrant, downtown. In recent years, San Mateo has become popular with expats with the addition of some eco-communities and private schools. The town is within a reasonable drive to nearby beaches, the San Jose metropolitan area, and SJO Airport. In this post, we’ll tell you more about San Mateo.

Orientation

San Mateo is located just 30 minutes inland from the port of Caldera (Puntarenas) on Costa Rica’s central Pacific coast. SJO Airport is about a one-hour drive, and downtown San Jose can be reached in less than 1.5 hours. Popular tourist beaches near Jaco are 45 minutes to 1 hour away.

While small, San Mateo is just five to ten minutes from a larger town called Orotina. Here, you’ll find many shops, banks, and services. 

Downtown San Mateo near the parkWeather and Climate

At roughly 250 meters (820 feet) above sea level, San Mateo is hilly but not quite in the mountains. The town keeps warm-to-hot temperatures year-round but does cool off nicely at night.

Daytime temperatures typically range from the low 80s to 90s °F (27-32 °C) and cool off into the low 70s °F (21-23 °C) at night. During the height of the dry season (March), temperatures can reach 100 °F (38 °C).

Tropical surroundsExpat Eco-Communities

While some foreigners are attracted to San Mateo for its authentic Costa Rican charm, others have been drawn in by alternative lifestyle opportunities at eco-communities.

Ecovilla

Ecovilla, a development focused on sustainability and a mindful community, is the biggest eco-community in the area.

The 494 acre (200 hectare) property dedicates only 22 acres (9 hectares) to home construction. The remainder is used as green space or allowed to regenerate naturally. Residents gather for community bonding events, markets, hiking, swimming, and yoga.  

Alegria Village

Alegria Village, also in San Mateo, has a similar approach.

Their 170 acre (70 hectare) community is centered around a permaculture farm and food forest. Their vision is to be a place where all beings thrive. This development is also highly focused on building bonds between its tight-knit and like-minded residents.

Private School Options

For private schools, there is the Real World School (formerly Casa Sula). This is a community school that emphasizes personalized, curiosity-driven, and project-based learning for kids ages 3-18. The Real World School is located inside Ecovilla.

Outside the eco-villages, near downtown, is the Journey School. This school has a unique outdoor classroom and focuses on agriculture and sustainability (pre-K through 12th grade). They also have locations in Tamarindo, Arizona (USA), and will open soon in Uvita (August 2024).    

Activities

There are a few local attractions in San Mateo to enjoy. Plus, its position near major highways makes it a nice base for day trips to the coast, mountains, city, or other nearby towns.

Choco Tour Costa Rica

Located a few minutes outside downtown San Mateo, this chocolate tour aims to teach you the history of cacao from a culinary angle. From tasting ancient Mayan drinks to making your own treats, this tour will elevate anyone’s love and appreciation for chocolate.

For more about our experience taking the tour and how to arrange one yourself, read our full article, Choco Tour Costa Rica: A Chocolate Tour with a Culinary Twist.

Raw cacao at Choco Tour Costa RicaRivers/Natural Pools

When it gets hot in San Mateo, many locals head to the nearby rivers to cool off. There are several swimming holes in and around town. Some deeper pools have been carved out by prior gold-mining activities, while others have been formed by mother nature.

One easy to access spot is the Rio Machuca near the Route 3 bridge. Here is a map of the small public parking area. You also can reach a different part of this river near Poza Blanca Lodge. There is a small parking area at the end of the road.  

The river near Poza Blanca LodgeWaterfall Catarata El Encanto

Just a 20-minute drive from San Mateo is Catarata El Encanto (the Charming Waterfall).

This little-known attraction near Esparza is off the tourist trail but totally worth a visit. The impressive cascade drops 23 meters (75 feet) along a wide rocky cliff. Below is a refreshing natural pool for swimming and a tranquil river for picnics.

To learn more, including the best times of year to go, read our full article, Catarata El Encanto: Esparza’s Charming Waterfall.

Catarata El Encanto in JanuaryBuen Camino Bike Park

If you are into mountain biking, this is your spot.

Buen Camino Bike Park is a 316 acre (128 hectare) property with an extensive trail system. Along the professional-grade course, you can find jumps, bridges, viewpoints, and lots of tropical surrounds.

Day passes are $25. There is a restaurant onsite, and they also have simple accommodations (see section below). Bike rentals are available for those traveling. 

Beaches a Short Drive Away

San Mateo is only about 30 minutes to one hour from several beaches on the Pacific coast.

Playa Caldera, near the port of Puntarenas, is the closest. This beach isn’t the most scenic but has a fun atmosphere with lots of street vendors selling shaved ice treats called Churchills.

For prettier beaches and nice water for swimming, head to Playa Mantas and Playa Blanca. These beaches, about 50 minutes away, fill up with locals from San Jose on weekends and holidays but can be very nice at off-peak times.

The beautiful Playa Mantas, about 50 minutes from San Mateo

Jaco, one of Costa Rica’s most built-up beach towns, is just over one hour away. For more about the Jaco area’s beaches, read our full article, Jaco Beaches: Where to Swim, Surf, and Just Relax.

Restaurants in San Mateo

The town of San Mateo is small but there are a few good restaurant options. Here are some that we have enjoyed.

Soda Aurora

This traditional food restaurant is located next to the town’s main church and park. It is a great place to sit and absorb the local culture. Dishes like casados (rice, beans, a protein like fish, beef, or chicken, and side salads), arroz con camarones (rice with shrimp), and even hamburgers are served up by the friendly staff.

Soda Aurora is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

A casado at Soda AuroraRestaurante Frenesí

Located next to the soccer field, playground, and skate park is Restaurante Frenesi. This is another typical food restaurant. The large menu has everything from ceviche, soups, and salads to rice dishes, steaks, seafood, and pasta. Our family especially enjoyed their ice-cream food truck parked outside for dessert. Open Wednesday to Sunday for lunch and dinner.

Bar y Restaurante La Tranka

For casual food or a cold beer, head to Bar y Restaurante La Tranka. Located a little outside town on Route 131, this restaurant has a relaxed feel and solid typical food options. We really enjoyed our rice dishes and seafood soup. Service was friendly and attentive.  

Arroz con camarones (rice with shrimp) at Bar La TrankaLove Organic Market & Kitchen

If you need to pick up some specialty foods in San Mateo, Love Organic Market & Kitchen is the place to do it. They have nuts, grains, breads, cheeses, yogurt, fresh organic produce, and many other health foods.

Accommodations in San Mateo

Many people visiting San Mateo choose to stay in vacation rentals. This can be nice, especially for longer stays where you can cook for yourself and enjoy more privacy.

If you are just passing through or making a short visit, here is a list of some hotel options. 

The PAD at Buen Camino Bike Park

Set on a hill with spectacular views is the PAD. These simple two-bedroom villas and studio cabins are part of the Buen Camino Bike Park, a large property with mountain biking trails. Rooms are also available to those not visiting for biking. A shared area has a small pool. Onsite restaurant and bar. $80-125/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Room at the PAD at Buen Camino Bike ParkHotel Poza Blanca Lodge

This nine-room hotel sits perched on the riverbank of the scenic Machuca River. The rooms are well kept and comfortable. There are a lot of birds and animals on the property. With a pool, playground, and games, Hotel Poza Blanca is great for families. The onsite restaurant, Restaurante Cabernet, serves traditional Italian dishes and pizza. $130-250/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

The Retreat Costa Rica – Wellness Resort & Spa

For an upscale stay, check out the Retreat Costa Rica. Located between San Mateo and Atenas, this hotel and wellness center is ideal for those looking to escape stress, heal from within, or just be pampered in the spa. The small hotel has 18 modern rooms with valley or distant ocean views. The hotel includes three meals a day. Their restaurant is primarily plant-based and uses all organic, local ingredients, with most of the produce being grown on the property. $400-800/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.  

The Retreat Wellness Center and SpaConclusion

San Mateo has been known as a traditional small town in Costa Rica. While it still has that charm, it also has carved out its own niche with eco-friendly communities. If you are looking for one or the other, or maybe both, San Mateo may just be the right fit.

Have a question about visiting San Mateo? Leave a comment below. Looking for more small local towns? Check out these posts:

San Ramon: Close to Culture – Just 45 minutes away from San Mateo is the larger local city of San Ramon.

Nuevo Arenal: A Lakeside Town – With a mix of expats and locals, good restaurants, and lake views, Nuevo Arenal is a springlike destination worth checking out. 

Bajos del Toro: Costa Rica’s Land of Waterfalls – If you want to visit waterfalls, look no further than Bajos del Toro.

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Choco Tour Costa Rica: A Chocolate Tour with a Culinary Twist

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

If you’re visiting the San Mateo area or just passing through, an interesting activity is Choco Tour Costa Rica. This is a chocolate tour that teaches about the origins of chocolate and how it is grown. Unlike other chocolate tours in Costa Rica, though, this one has a culinary focus as the owner is a chef. In this post, we’ll tell you more about the experience at Choco Tour Costa Rica.

Background

Choco Tour Costa Rica is located in the small town of San Mateo, not far from Orotina. This area is about one hour from San Jose on the way to both Guanacaste in northern Costa Rica and the central and southern Pacific coast.

For this reason, it’s a good stop if you have a couple of extra hours on your way to or from the San Jose International Airport.

The TourMeeting Alex

We arrived at the property and pulled in next to the small wooden building.

The tour building

Alex, the owner, greeted us and brought us to some tables out back where we waited for a couple of other people to arrive. Our two young boys did some exploring, checking out the river next to the property and patting the owner’s friendly dogs.

Once the other group arrived, Alex began the tour.

We learned that he was originally from Mexico and had spent much of his life as a chef in Argentina. He now lives in Costa Rica and focuses on his chocolate tour and reforestation project.

The land near Alex’s property was previously used for cattle ranching. Using endangered trees and fruit trees, he has started the process of reforestation in an effort to draw wildlife. He also has young cacao trees and plans to have a botanical garden.

Origins of Chocolate

Right from the start, we could tell that Alex was passionate about food. He believes that food unities us all.

Two of the most important foods in the world throughout history, he explained, were corn and cacao. Surprisingly, he told us that there are 250 types of corn.

Corn, paired with cacao, has been used in drinks for thousands of years. Cacao was believed to be medicine. Alex explained that you can still see this today in some regions of the world. Notably, Blue Zones, like Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula, still use cacao for medicinal purposes.

Corn and raw cacaoChocolate Production

After a bit of explanation, Alex brought us near the river to teach us how chocolate is grown.

Cacao trees take about three years to become productive. He showed us some small plants that he had bought from a grower in Cahuita on the Caribbean coast. While Alex has his own cacao trees, they are only two years old (as of January 2024) so not producing cacao yet. This takes about three years.

Alex explained that when the trees reach maturity, they begin to flower. The flowers are pollinated by flies/mosquitoes. Once pollinated, the cacao pods begin to grow.

Breaking open a large oval-shaped fruit, Alex showed us the inside. Rows of sticky white seeds filled the pod. He invited us each to try one, warning not to eat the hard inner seed. The taste of the white covering was sweet and fruity.

Our son, Sam, holding a cacao pod

After the seeds are harvested, they are put into a fermentation box for seven days and covered with banana leaves. At end the week, they are brown and dry and start to resemble chocolate. This method of fermentation is based on Mayan tradition.

After fermentation, the brown seeds are roasted until perfection.

Drink Tastings

At a rustic wooden table nearby, Alex invited us to try some of the roasted raw cacao in drinks.

Holding colorful ceramic bowls, he explained about some important spices that we would be trying.

Alex teaching us about some of the spices

We smelled allspice, vanilla, rosita de cacao (a rare ingredient from jungle of Mexico), and chile morita. Chile morita is a dry, smoked chile pepper often used in Mexican food.

We tried a traditional cacao drink, similar to the sacred Mayan drink. It was made with cacao, water, cinnamon, and a touch of sugar cane.

Another memorable one was the pinio lio. This drink was made from cacao, corn, sugar, and two spices, cinnamon and pimienta gorda. Pimienta gorda, or allspice, takes on many different flavors depending on what it is combined with.

Traditional spices used in cacao drinksTurning Cacao into Chocolate

After the drink tastings, we headed back to the main building to learn more about turning raw cacao into rich, smooth chocolate.

Alex explained that traditionally, the cacao beans were ground using a metate, made from volcanic stone. We each got the chance to try this old-fashioned grinding method.

Sam trying the metate – it was hard to get the hang of!

He then went through the history of how the process has evolved over the years. This was really interesting. We learned how the chocolate maker Lindt replaced the metate with a machine that could finely grind the chocolate and then melt it to the consistency we know today.

Tasting the Chocolate

With our new knowledge and appreciation of where chocolate comes from, we finally got to try some.

Alex had us all come up to add some spices or flavorings to chocolate molds. Once we were happy with our creations, he poured melted chocolate that he had prepared on top. The chocolate was 70% dark, 30% sugar so as not to be too strong.

Making our chocolates

Some popular add-ins were sea salt, cashews, and goji berries. Our kids made sure to add plenty of candy sprinkles. Some brave members of the group even tried the gran mitla, a traditional Mexican spice made from salt, agave worms, and chile.

Mix ins for the chocolate

After a few minutes of chilling, Alex presented our finished chocolates.

They were incredibly smooth and delicious. He didn’t add lecithin to them, which is the artificial ingredient that makes chocolate not melt. Because it was so hot, the chocolate disks literally melted in our hands, forcing us to eat them quickly. But this wasn’t a bad thing at all. The chocolate tasting was delicious and the perfect way to end the tour!

Our homemade chocolates, already meltingPlanning Your Visit to Choco Tour Costa RicaCost

Adults – $45 per person

Children ages 3-12 – $10 per person

Tour Times

Tours are offered by reservation at 9:00 a.m., 11:00 a.m., and 4:00 p.m.

Duration

1.5-2 hours

Alex’s propertyHow to Book a Tour

You can book a tour directly through their website.

What to Bring

Part of the tour is in the sun and San Mateo can be very hot. We recommend lightweight clothing, a hat, and sunscreen.

Location/Directions

Choco Tour Costa Rica is located on a side road a few minutes outside downtown San Mateo. Here is a link to the exact location on Google Maps. 

It is easy to find. The road is paved and you do not need a four-wheel drive vehicle.

The scenic river next to the propertyConclusion

Our family really enjoyed Choco Tour Costa Rica, especially learning about the different spices and flavorings that have been traditionally used in chocolate. This culinary focus was something a little different from other chocolate tours we have done in Costa Rica. We highly recommend it if you’re visiting San Mateo.

Have a question about visiting Choco Tour Costa Rica or have you been? Leave a comment below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

North Fields Café: If you’re looking for a coffee-chocolate combo tour, this is a great one in La Fortuna/Arenal.

El Arca Botanical Garden and Restaurant: This is an awesome foodie tour near Heredia/San Jose. They have a gorgeous botanical garden and farm-to-table restaurant.

Costa Rica Rental Car Discount: It’s easiest to have a rental car for exploring off-the-beaten path places like San Mateo. Check out our discount to save 10% and get free extras.

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Using the Puntarenas-Naranjo Ferry

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Taking a ferry to cross Costa Rica’s wide Gulf of Nicoya is a fun way to break up a long drive. In this article, we’ll tell you everything you need to know about using the Puntarenas-Naranjo ferry. We’ll include how to buy tickets, boarding the ferry with your car, and what to expect once you are on the boat.   

We will also cover how this ferry will soon become essential due to the temporary closure of a major bridge that connects San Jose and the central Pacific coast to Guanacaste.

About the Puntarenas-Naranjo Ferry

There are two passenger/car ferries that connect the port city of Puntarenas to the Nicoya Peninsula.

In a past article, we explained how to use the Puntarenas-Paquera ferry. That ferry is best for visiting towns on the southern Nicoya Peninsula like Santa Teresa/Mal Pais and Montezuma.

This article will explain how to use the ferry between Puntarenas and Playa Naranjo.

Playa Naranjo is farther north so this ferry is better for accessing the northern Nicoya Peninsula. There aren’t many tourist destinations here, but sometimes people use this ferry to reach towns like Samara, Nosara, Tamarindo, Playa Flamingo, Playa Conchal, etc. This actually takes a little longer but breaks up the drive with a scenic boat ride.

You can bring your rental car on the ferryIMPORTANT BRIDGE CLOSURE

La Amistad Bridge, which connects Highway 1 to the Nicoya Peninsula via Route 18, will be closed for maintenance starting on April 1, 2024.

This closure will impact the drive from San Jose or the central Pacific coast to Guanacaste. The main tourist destinations affected are Nosara, Samara, and Punta Islita.

Construction is expected to last from April until July 2024, but it could take longer.

If you are visiting a destination impacted by this closure, we highly recommend taking the Puntarenas-Naranjo ferry. This will let you cut over to the northern Nicoya Peninsula and then continue the drive up Route 21 to get to Guanacaste. The only other option than taking the ferry is to drive all the way north to Liberia and then around.

For northern Guanacaste destinations like Tamarindo, Playa Flamingo, Playa Conchal, Playa Hermosa, Playas del Coco, etc., it makes the most sense to skip the ferry and take Highway 1 the whole way. Of course, if you’d like to do the ferry, it is an option.

Puntarenas-Naranjo Ferry Schedule

The ferry departs eight times a day.

Below is the current schedule. Plan to arrive 30-40 minutes in advance to get your car in line.

Puntarenas to Playa Naranjo: 5:30 a.m., 7:30 a.m., 10:00 a.m., 12:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m., 4:00 p.m., 6:45 p.m., 8:00 p.m.

Playa Naranjo to Puntarenas: 5:00 a.m., 8:00 a.m., 9:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m., 2:00 p.m., 4:30 p.m., 6:00 p.m., 8:30 p.m.

*The ferry does not operate on Holy Friday/Viernes Santo (Friday before Easter). It is open every other day of the year.

Buying Tickets Online Tickets

Tickets for the Puntarenas-Naranjo ferry can be purchased in advance through the ferry company’s website, Coonatramar.com.

Their website has an English and Spanish version (click the flag symbol at the top). You can pay with a credit card and a ticket confirmation with QR code will be sent by email.

When filling out the form, you will have to choose the number of adults and children, then select a date on the calendar.

If you are crossing with a car, you will need to select the vehicle type. For normal cars, SUVs, and single axle pickup trucks, the type of car will be “sedan” or “liviano” in Spanish.

They also will ask for the license plate number. If you are renting a car and do not have this information yet, you can type “rented” or “alquilar” in that space.

Tip: In our experience, the ferry’s website can be very slow, and you may have to fill out the prompts multiple times to get it to function properly. With a little patience, it should work.   

In Person Tickets

Tickets also can be purchased in person at the ferry company’s office near the docks in Puntarenas and Naranjo. This is more of a risk, though, because they may sell out.  

The ticket office in Puntarenas is located across the street from the dock. Look for the sign that says Coonatramar. In Naranjo, there is a ticket window in the small ferry terminal building.

Ferry office in Puntarenas for if you didn’t buy tickets onlineTicket Prices

Adults: ₡1,005 (about $2 USD)

Children (under 12): ₡600 (about $1)

Regular Sized Vehicle: ₡9,000 (about $18)

AVT/Quad: ₡6,000 (about $12)

Motorcycle: ₡3,000 (about $6)

Bicycle: ₡2,000 (about $4)

Boarding the Ferry

Using the Puntarenas-Naranjo ferry is a straightforward process. With your tickets purchased online, you just need to arrive at the dock early (they recommend 40 minutes before departure) to load onto the boat.

Here is the map location for the Puntarenas dock: MAP

Here is the map location for the Naranjo dock: MAP

Boarding the Ferry with a Car

If you plan to take your car across, the process is the same whether you are departing from Puntarenas or Naranjo.

Getting in Line

First, you’ll arrive at the dock and get your car in line. An employee will come and ask for your ticket confirmation and QR code. They may put a laminated ticket on your dashboard, saying that they have reviewed your details.

The line starts right at the ferry dock and then curves onto the street. If you are unsure where to go, find an employee to ask.

Cars line up as they arrive, waiting to load onto the ferryDriving Onto the Boat

Once the ferry arrives and is unloaded, they will start directing cars to drive on.

Important: At this point, any passengers in the car should get out and walk onto the ferry. Only the driver is allowed to drive on and off. If you are a single adult traveling with minors or elderly people, they will make an exception.  

Driving onto the ferryParking on the Ferry

After driving up the ramps onto the ship, more employees will wave you into a spot. They pack in the cars and trucks very tightly.

Once parked, you will exit your vehicle and find the stairs to the upper decks. Parking on the ferry is fairly secure since people are not supposed to walk around the car deck once the boat is moving. Still, we recommend keeping your most valuable items with you in a smaller bag.  

Walking On

For those walking on, there is a sidewalk and ramp onto the ship. It will bring you onto the main deck. It would be handy to have a copy of the ticket confirmation to show anyone who asks.

The ramp for people to walk onto the ferryFerry Ride

The ferry ride between Puntarenas and Naranjo or visa-versa is about 1 hour and 15 minutes. During this time, you can relax and enjoy the beautiful scenery.

Along the way, you will pass small offshore islands, fishing boats, and may even see some cool birds or sea life.

On one of our trips, we saw a pod of dolphins jumping. There are also whales, sea turtles, and manta rays that live in the Gulf of Nicoya.

The small lighthouse in PuntarenasFerry Amenities

There are two different boats in use for the Puntarenas-Naranjo service.

The San Lucas II is an older boat that works well but is cosmetically more run down. The lower enclosed deck smells a little musty and the boat shows signs of wear.

The San Lucas III is the newer option (from 2024) and has a nice, modern feel.

Which boat you get depends on the schedule as both continuously go back and forth. You will be able to see the boat options when you buy tickets online.

The new San Lucas IIIIndoor/Outdoor Spaces

Both boats have two levels for passengers and plenty of places to sit. Each has an air-conditioned indoor sitting area as well. The San Lucas II has this area in the bottom of the boat (under the cars), while the San Lucas III’s airconditioned area is on the second floor, above the cars.

The air conditioned sitting area of the new San Lucas III

Both ferries have a big top deck with outdoor seating. There is a roof overhead, but it can still be sunny and windy depending on where you sit. They usually have Latin music playing in the outside areas, which can be really fun.

Outdoor sitting area on San Lucas IIIFood & Drinks Onboard

Both boats have small snack bars that sell chips, cookies, some baked goods, simple sandwiches, fried chicken, and French fries. There are also soft drinks, juices, and coffee.

Both boats have a snack bar

Each boat also has a wet bar on the top deck where you can buy beer, wine, soft drinks, and even mixed drinks or shots.

Deboarding

As the boat approaches its destination, an announcement will be made (in Spanish) to tell drivers to report to their cars. Passengers will need to wait and walk off the boat. This process is quick so be ready to jump in your car and go.  

Accessibility

The ferry has stairs between decks. There is a chair lift on the San Lucas II and an elevator on the San Lucas III for passengers with limited mobility.

A chair lift for getting to the air conditioned sitting area of San Lucas IIConclusion

Taking the Puntarenas-Naranjo ferry is a good way to break up a long travel day. If you are taking your car, you can leave most of your belongings below while you enjoy the views from the top deck or sip a drink in the A/C.

Have a question about using the ferry between Puntarenas and Playa Naranjo? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Rental Car Discount – Our readers get 10% off with one of the most reliable rental car companies, plus free extras.

Rainy Season Driving in Costa Rica – Since it’s in the tropics, Costa Rica gets a lot of rain but you can be prepared knowing what to expect.

Packing for Costa Rica: The Essentials – This post lists some necessary items and other things that can make your travels more comfortable. 

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Tamarindo Estuary Boat Tour

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Walking the busy streets of Tamarindo, you’d never guess that just a short walk away is an estuary brimming with wildlife. From the river mouth at the northern end of town, a large wetland stretches inland. This rich ecosystem is home to tropical birds, crocodiles, monkeys, and other cool creatures. In this post, we’ll share what it’s like to take a Tamarindo estuary boat tour and what you might see. 

Background

The Tamarindo estuary is part of Las Baulas National Marine Park (Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas). This important conservation area helps protect sea turtle nesting beaches, reefs, rivers, and mangroves in the highly developed areas of Tamarindo and Playa Grande.

The estuary attracts a lot of wildlife because it is an important source of water and food. This is especially true in the dry season when water is scarce.

Tour Location

Boat tours of the Tamarindo estuary start near the river mouth. If you take the road out of town (toward Villareal), you will see some restaurants and shops on your left (e.g., Pangas Restaurant).

Just after these, there is a dirt pull-off, parking area, and small information building. This is where you will find the various guides/locals that offer the Tamarindo estuary tour.

The meeting point

We previously arranged a tour through one of the guides we found online. When we arrived, we just mentioned his name and another guide helped us find him.

Compared to other tours in Costa Rica, this one is very informal and a bit rustic. There are larger tour companies that offer it, but if you go through one of the local guides, you’ll likely be on a simple boat and the guide’s English may not be perfect. We still really enjoyed the tour, though.

Boarding the Boat

After traversing some steps down to the riverbank, we were greeted by our guide, William. He was just pulling up his small boat onto the sandy shoreline.

The skinny fiberglass boat had about ten seats and was covered with a canopy for shade.

Our boat waiting for us

A handful of other visitors got on with us, then William’s helper pushed us off into deeper water. William fired up the small outboard motor and we were off.

The Wide River

From the launching point, the river was very wide and a bit choppy from the wind and ocean nearby. But William steered toward a calmer spot along the edge. As we continued upstream, the river narrowed, and he started pointing out some interesting things.

Looking up the river from Tamarindo

First, it was a large clump of brown wood on a nearby tree branch. William told us that this was a nest of arboreal termites. They live high in the tree for protection.

Next, we started to spot some birds. We saw several species of heron, including a Little Blue Heron, Green Heron, and Yellow-crowned Night Heron.

A Yellow-crowned Night Heron

As we continued, the river became narrower. Thick mangrove roots and tree branches were all around us.

Deep Into the Mangroves

William carefully steered us through some narrower channels until we reached a fork.

To the right, we learned, was the Santa Rosa River, and to the left was the Matapalo River. He told us he was looking for a big crocodile he had seen earlier. When we arrived at the spot, the sandy bank was, unfortunately, empty.

Determined, our trusty guide motored onward. We could feel that the air was now much cooler because of the shady trees all around us.

William told us that there were five different species of mangrove in this area: black mangrove, red mangrove, white mangrove, piñuela mangrove, and button mangrove.

Along the impressive mangrove root structures, we could see lots of colorful crabs.

In the canopy overhead, there were many more birds too. Several Ringed Kingfishers swooped down near the top to the water, fishing. We then saw a Common Black Hawk, hunting from a high branch. There were also some big green parrots, squawking loudly as they flew around in the branches.

Thick mangrove all around

At one point, William turned off the motor and told us to listen. We could hear distant snapping sounds coming from all different directions.

William took out two shells and clanged them together, mimicking the sound exactly. These were a type of mangrove clam, he said. They snap their shells like that at low tide. William told us that locals use these clams in ceviche and soups.

Other Wildlife Sightings

Our tour through the mangrove continued for about two hours in total. In that time, we saw some other interesting wildlife.

One highlight was a mother racoon and her four or five tiny babies. William tried to get us closer, but the mother quickly scurried her little ones through the thick roots to somewhere safe.   

On the way back, William pulled the boat onto shore and got out. He told us to wait. Apparently, there was usually a family of howler monkeys in this area, but not today.

We did spot an impressive Osprey high up in a tree, though. These birds of prey have a wide range all the way up to North America but are still a treat to see in Costa Rica.

An Osprey

There was also a beautiful Snowy Egret, some White Ibis, and a Tri-colored Heron that posed for us. This tour would definitely be a good one for birders visiting Guanacaste!

Tri-colored heronCrocodile!

As William motored back toward the starting point, he suddenly turned the boat and pointed.

There on the riverbank was a small crocodile. Everyone was excited and we could tell William felt a bit relieved. A few of the people on the boat had really wanted to see a croc and he had struck out until now.

Our crocodile sighting

As we all took pictures from a safe distance, the young crocodile got a little nervous and decided to take a swim. Just to show us that he wasn’t retreating too easily, he showed his teeth in the water for another great photo opportunity.

Booking a Tour

We booked our tour through Tamarindo Estuary Tours, using WhatsApp to contact the owner. If you are more comfortable booking online, some good options are available on TripAdvisor and Viator.

Tour Price

Around $45 USD per adult and discounts for children are typical, depending on the company you choose. Includes fruit and water.

Tour Times

Start times vary depending on the tide. The river and mangrove system are tidal and best visited during higher tides when there is more water. 

Duration

2 hours  

Accessibility

From the parking area, you have to go down a rustic stairway and then over some big rocks to reach the boats. The steps are steep and a little large but there is a railing to help.

There is no dock. You board the boat by wading into the shallow water (ankle to calf deep) and then have to take a big step up onto the boat. This could be challenging for people with limited mobility.

One of the other people boarding the boatConclusion

We have visited Tamarindo many times and had always wondered what it was like to take a boat tour of the Tamarindo estuary. We’re happy to report that it is an easy, short activity that will showcase some of Costa Rica’s impressive wildlife. It is especially great for people who would like to see birds and possibly crocodiles. Our entire family enjoyed it.  

Have a question about the Tamarindo estuary tour or want to share what you saw? Leave us a comment below.

Some of the links in this post are connected to affiliate programs we have joined. If you make a purchase using one of the links, we get a small commission. This doesn’t cost you anything extra and helps us keep providing information on this website for free. Thanks for your support!

Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these posts:

River Float Wildlife Tour in Guanacaste – This tour is a full day of adventure and will bring you by rubber raft down a swift river, full of different wildlife. There’s also a visit to an impressive waterfall.

Palo Verde National Park: A Wildlife Tour Through Guanacaste’s Wetlands – Another longer day trip for birds and wildlife from Guanacaste, this one brings you to an enormous wetland called Palo Verde. This tour is more accessible and ideal for all ages.

Costa Rica Wildlife Guides: Our Picks – If you’re interested in learning more about Costa Rica’s critters, pick up one of these guidebooks before your trip.

The post Tamarindo Estuary Boat Tour appeared first on Two Weeks in Costa Rica.

Catarata El Encanto: Esparza’s Charming Waterfall

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Costa Rica has thousands of amazing waterfalls. Some are famous tourist attractions while others remain hidden deep in the rainforest or on private properties. In this post, we’ll share an impressive cascade that is off-the-beaten path but popular with locals. Catarata El Encanto is tucked into the countryside between Puntarenas and San Mateo. It offers an authentic experience with beautiful surrounds. In this post, we’ll share everything you need to plan your visit.

Location

Catarata El Encanto is located in the small town of El Baron. El Baron is about 15 minutes south of a bigger town called Esparza and 25 minutes west of San Mateo. From the port city of Puntarenas or Caldera, the waterfall is roughly 30-40 minutes away. See below for directions. 

Arriving at Catarata El Encanto

After a drive through the countryside and the town of El Baron, you will arrive at the entrance to El Encanto Waterfall. Here, you’ll find a restaurant where you can park, as well as the owner’s home, some bathrooms, and a stable/field with horses, cows, and chickens.

The parking area in front of the restaurant

The restaurant was closed during our visit but is usually open on weekends and holidays. They serve traditional Costa Rican dishes.

The restaurant/house is where you normally pay the 2,000 colones (about $4 USD) per person entrance fee, but we didn’t see anyone around. Instead, we followed signs for the trail and later met up with the owner’s son to pay.   

Handmade sign near the restaurantThe Trail and Stairs

In total, the walk from the restaurant to the waterfall is only about 350 meters (0.2 miles). While short, it is best to wear sneakers or at least sturdy strap-on sandals because of the steep, uneven terrain.

From the restaurant, a narrow 4×4 dirt road leads downhill toward the river. This trail is rocky but easy.

At the end is the start of a large, rustic stairway. Here, the owners have built concrete steps with metal railings. There are 185 steps down to the river’s edge.

Stairs down to the waterfall

Roughly halfway down the stairs is a viewpoint that overlooks the waterfall. This is a great spot to take a break when coming back up and to snap some pictures.

Viewpoint from the stairsThe River

At the bottom of the stairs, you will find the Rio Paires (Pairs River). This is a swift, rocky river but has some nice pools to wade in when conditions are right. The river is set in a wide valley and has lots of mature trees surrounding it.

Scenic river

From here, you’ll walk to the right to get to the waterfall. There is a faint trail at first but then a lot of giant boulders and smaller rocks to traverse to get there.

Trail to the waterfallCatarata El Encanto: The Charming Waterfall

After a little work getting over the rocks, you can enjoy the grandeur of Catarata El Encanto (the Charming Waterfall).

The impressive cascade drops 23 meters (75 feet) down a sheer rock cliff.

You can get a sense of the waterfall’s scale when someone steps into the picture

It’s a very wide cliff so the water comes down in all different places, making sheets or curtains of water. This waterfall has a similar look to a famous waterfall called Llanos de Cortez in Guanacaste Province.

When we visited at the beginning of the dry season (mid-January), there was still a good amount of water coming over the falls.

Water still flowing in mid-January

At rainier times of year, the flow at El Encanto can be very heavy. And during the height of dry season, there can be no water at all.

For this reason, it’s important to time your visit. More on this in the Planning Your Visit section, below.

Natural Swimming Pool

At the base of El Encanto Waterfall is a giant natural pool roughly 46 meters (150 feet) wide and 8 meters (26 feet) deep at its deepest spot.

We weren’t sure about swimming here at first, but as we arrived, we met the owner’s son and his friends that had just been in the water.

While a bit murky, we decided to at least take a quick dip and float around on the rubber tubes tied to the rocks. This was a lot of fun for the kids and adults alike.  

Tip: Many locals visit this waterfall on weekends and holidays, setting up picnics and spending the entire day. We went during the week so there was hardly anyone around.

Planning Your VisitWhen to Go

As we mentioned above, it is important to time your visit to El Encanto Waterfall because of seasonal waterflow changes. The owner was interviewed about this in a video. It’s in Spanish but breaks downs like this:

June to Mid-October

With rain, the river and waterfall can be forceful and have muddy/cloudy water. With a few days of better weather, the pools can be swimmable again. During these months, access may be closed on certain days due to heavy rains. Check their Facebook page or call ahead (info below).

November to Mid-January

Nice waterflow with cleaner water and good river levels for swimming (this was when we visited).

Mid-January to End of February

Typically, not much water comes over the falls because it’s so dry, but the river is still nice for swimming and picnicking.  

March to End of May

Access to the waterfall is usually closed because there is no water coming over the falls and the river is stagnant and not pleasant to swim in.

Entrance Cost

2,000 colones per person (about $4 USD). We were not charged for our four-year old.

Contact

Catarata El Encanto Facebook page.

Phone: (506) 8568-6061. We recommend using WhatsApp. It’s what all the locals use to communicate.

Restaurant

As of this writing, the restaurant is open Friday to Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.

Directions to Catarata El Encanto

From Route 131, which connects Esparza and San Mateo, take the turn for El Baron and head west. Continue left at the turn (restaurant Soda La Cueva/Danna). At the next fork, go to the right past the soccer field and church. Continue on this road for another 5 minutes or so until you see the waterfall entrance (Restaurante El Encanto) on your right.

Here is a link to Google Maps with the exact location for the entrance/parking.

Sign for the entranceConclusion

We were thrilled to have found Catarata El Encanto on a recent visit to San Mateo. It was a short adventure hiking down to the falls and taking a swim, but we could have easily spent more time picnicking and relaxing next to the river. If you are in the area, we definitely recommend it.  

Have a question about visiting Catarata El Encanto or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these posts:

San Ramon: Close to Culture – If you are looking for a small local city with an authentic feel, San Ramon has a lot to offer.

Bajos del Toro: Costa Rica’s Land of Waterfalls – Some of the country’s most impressive waterfalls are found in this small town.

Rental Car Discount – If you are into visiting hidden waterfalls and other lesser known attractions, a rental car is a must. Use our discount to save and get free extras.

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River Float Wildlife Tour in Guanacaste

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

If you are visiting a beach destination in Costa Rica’s Guanacaste Province, you may be wondering where you can see wildlife nearby. After all, many beach spots in this area offer lots of amenities and awesome beach time, but not as much wildlife. One fun option is a river float tour to see birds, monkeys, and crocodiles. In this post, we’ll share our family’s experience, tell you what we saw, and explain how you can arrange this activity.

Overview

Costa Rica’s Guanacaste region is seasonally very dry and doesn’t have lush rainforest like other places around the country. For this reason, animals and birds are a little harder to see. Often, they hang out near freshwater sources like wetlands, ponds, and rivers.

A river float tour offers a good chance to see some of Costa Rica’s famous wildlife. The tour takes you inland to a sizable river. Depending on water levels, you’ll gently cruise down either the Tenorio or Corobici River. Both rivers flow into a giant wetland ecosystem (Palo Verde) and are home to a lot of different creatures. 

The scenery along the lower Tenorio RiverLocation 

The tour does involve some driving. We were picked up from our hotel in Tamarindo and it took about two hours to get to the river.

We broke up the ride with a restroom/coffee stop, and our guide, Gabriel, was very good at engaging with us. He taught us a lot about the area and what we were seeing outside the van windows.

On the way back, we stopped for lunch and at a gorgeous waterfall (see below).

The drive time from Tamarindo (two hours) is similar from towns like Playa Grande, Conchal, Flamingo, Potrero, and Las Catalinas.

From beach towns like Playas del Coco, Playa Hermosa, or resorts on the Papagayo Peninsula, travel time to the river is only about one hour.

River Float Tour Guanacaste – Our ExperienceGearing Up & Setting Off

Right off the highway near the town of Canas, we strapped on lifejackets and helmets, then followed our guide down a short path. There, on the bank of the Tenorio River, was a small rubber raft waiting for us.

Gabriel, our naturalist guide, introduced us to Alan.

Alan was a local from the area who grew up on the river. He would be our captain for the seven mile (11 km) trip down the Tenorio River. Gabriel would be with us too, helping to spot wildlife and telling us all about it.  

In just a few minutes, we were loaded into the raft. Alan paddled to the center of the river and we floated slowly downstream. The river was moving swiftly but was very calm.  

Here we go!First Wildlife Sightings

Just minutes into our adventure, Alan started to backpaddle and got Gabriel’s attention. In the nearby tree was a Boat-billed Heron. These birds, we learned, are nocturnal and like to sleep in trees during the day. They have a big boat-shaped beak, hence the name.

Alan paddled on and almost immediately, our guide pointed out a big rock up ahead. On top was a giant crocodile sunning itself. It was at least 10 feet (three meters) long! We approached and Alan eased us past the giant creature at a safe distance.

Crocodile

Our next stop was a large family of bats, hanging under a rocky cliff. While Alan held the boat steady, Gabriel explained that Costa Rica has over 100 different species of bats. He quickly identified these as long-nosed proboscis bats. He told us they are very important for the ecosystem because they can eat thousands of mosquitoes per day.

Long-nosed proboscis bats sleeping on a cliffThe Tranquil River

Our trip down the river continued much like this. Since we were moving swiftly with the current, we were sneaking up on animals almost constantly.

Even when our guides weren’t pointing out something new, we were enjoying the scenery of the river. The trees were very thick and green, which was a nice contrast to the environment in Guanacaste during the dry season (January-April).

We also learned about some of the trees and plants.

At one point, Alan took a fern from the riverbank. He showed us how it can be used to make a temporary tattoo on your skin. Gabriel explained that the powder on the fern is part of its defense mechanism, protecting it from hungry insects.  

Alan showing us how to make a fern tattooAbundant Birds

Along the riverbank, we spotted a lot of different birds.

A short list of memorable ones were the Bare-throated Tiger Heron, Anhinga, Yellow-crowned Night Heron, Groove-billed Ani, Squirrel Cuckoo, Little Blue heron, Green Heron, Ringed Kingfisher, and some large Osprey.

A Bare-throated Tiger Heron fishing along the riverbankLazy Monkeys

We also got to see some monkeys. One troop of howler monkeys was eating fruit and leaves from a tree hanging over the river. They didn’t seem too bothered by us as Alan paddled the raft almost right under them.

One of the howler monkeys we saw

Later in the trip, we saw one lonesome white-faced monkey too. But he was much shyer and disappeared quickly into the bushes.

Wildlife Surprises

A huge highlight was seeing our guides get really excited by some unexpected wildlife sightings.

First, it was two large birds flying overhead. The stork-like birds were called Jabiru. They are rare and only found in a few parts of Costa Rica. We got a nice camera shot as they flew by.

A rare Jabiru

Jabiru are huge birds. They can be almost three feet (one meter) tall when standing and have an enormous wingspan of up to nine feet (2.8 meters)!

We didn’t realize how special of a sighting the birds were until we saw our guides enthusiastically telling other guides about it later.

Another awesome surprise was when we noticed something splashing next to the raft as we went down a gentle rapid. It turned out to be a neotropical river otter! Our guide had only seen them a couple of times in his life.

A Tasty Lunch

Not long after the excitement of the river otter, we reached the raft take-out spot. Our van driver, Alberto, was there waiting for us. After a cold drink and some fresh pineapple, we loaded into the van.

About a half hour later, we stopped for a nice typical-style Costa Rican lunch at a restaurant along the river’s edge.   

A traditional casado with chickenLlanos de Cortez Waterfall Stop

Our second stop on the way back to the hotel was the Llanos de Cortez Waterfall. We had visited this waterfall several times before, but it never gets old. The waterfall is a beautiful veil-shaped cascade with a big natural swimming pool at the bottom.

The always beautiful Llanos de Cortez

The trail down to the falls is short and not very difficult. There is also some nice shade and lots of sandy spots to sit and relax. For much more, read our full article, Llanos de Cortez Waterfall.

After splashing around with the kids for about a half-hour, we returned to the van for the remaining drive back to the hotel.

Conclusion

Our family really enjoyed the river float tour in Guanacaste. After doing beach activities in the days prior, it was the perfect mix of nature and adventure that we needed. Even though it involved a bit of driving, it was completely worth it. 

Booking a Tour

If you would like to experience the river float trip from Guanacaste for yourself, we would be happy to help set it up for you. Booking through us costs the same and supports our website.

Cost

$133 per person adults. $118 per person children (ages 5-11).

Minimum Age

The minimum age is 5.

We did this tour with our 8 and 5 year olds and both did great. It was a little hot on the raft for them at times, but we were able to keep them happy with some foldout wildlife guides that they used to help us identify birds and animals.

Duration

Full day tour (6-8 hours door to door). Pick up will be earlier in the morning (around 7:00 or 7:30 a.m.) with a late afternoon return to your accommodations. Exact timing depends on your pickup location.

What’s Included

Round-trip transportation from your hotel or vacation rental home, bilingual naturalist guides, rafting safety equipment, waterfall entrance fees, lunch, fruit, and drinks.

Contact Us to Reserve

To book, please email us at bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com with your preferred date, number of adults and kids (with children’s ages), and pickup location in Guanacaste. We will check availability and get back to you with all the details. We bill through PayPal or Zelle and send you a booking confirmation.

Have a question about the river float tour to see wildlife in Guanacaste? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Guanacaste, Costa Rica: Regional Snapshot – This post will give you an overview of the Guanacaste region’s weather, landscape, and more.

Palo Verde National Park: A Wildlife Tour Through Guanacaste’s Wetlands – This tour is similar but is on a stable pontoon boat and explores a slightly different area.

Rincon de La Vieja National Park: Volcanic Vents and Tropical Forest – This is another popular day trip from Guanacaste’s beach towns.

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Jaguar Rescue Center Wildlife Tour in Puerto Viejo

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Since living in Costa Rica for the past 10+ years, we have visited several wildlife sanctuaries and rehabilitation centers. These important organizations help animals that have been injured in the wild, orphaned, or held illegally as pets. The experience visiting these places can differ a lot. One of our favorites is the Jaguar Rescue Center in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. We have been a couple of times, and on each visit, we leave inspired to help Costa Rica’s amazing wildlife. In this post, we’ll share what the Jaguar Rescue Center tour is like.

BackgroundFounding

The Jaguar Rescue Center was founded by Sandro Alviani and Encar Garcia, an Italian-Spanish couple living in Puerto Viejo. Sandro had a background in herpetology, researching reptiles and amphibians, while Encar was a specialist in primates who had worked at the Barcelona Zoo.

Encar had always wanted to help animals by starting a rescue center. As the couple became known in the local community, her dream quickly became true.

In 2005, locals started bringing them injured animals after hearing about the “foreigner animal experts” living in town.

The first animal was an ocelot, one of the smaller big cats in Costa Rica. The local who found the injured cat mistakenly thought it was a jaguar, hence the name Jaguar Rescue Center.

Eventually, Sandro and Encar had more animals than they could care for on their own. On their property, they built enclosures for the injured animals and eventually expanded, buying adjoining lots to increase the space of their facility.

In 2008, they officially opened as the Jaguar Rescue Center.

Jaguar Rescue Center founders – photo credit: Jaguar Rescue CenterFacility Today

Over time, the facility has expanded and improved. We noticed a difference in the center from our visit in 2023 to when we first went in 2013.

Today, the Jaguar Rescue Center facility is about 22,000 square meters (5.4 acres) and can house up to around 160 animals on a temporary basis.

Rehabilitation Center, Sanctuary, and Release Site

The facility is made up of the rehabilitation center and sanctuary. They also have a release site called La Ceiba where the animals go when they are healthy and ready to go back to the jungle.

The rehab center is where their team of veterinarians and staff care for animals that hopefully will be released. Because the animals will be released, the center aims to reduce human interaction as much as possible. For this reason, visitors cannot access the rehab center.

Instead, visitors can tour the sanctuary. For some animals, reintroduction isn’t possible due to health or behavioral problems. These animals live the rest of their life in the sanctuary, where they are cared for and live in habitats similar to their natural environment.

Below, we share our experience visiting the sanctuary.

One of the buildings at the Jaguar Rescue CenterTourIntroduction

Our tour started at the reception area of Jaguar Rescue Center where we met Lizzy. Lizzy was a young volunteer who had been working at the center for a few years. She was originally from the US but lived in Puerto Viejo.

Donning fun sloth socks and leopard print shorts, Lizzy told us right away how much she cared for animals. Her passion had brought her to the Jaguar Rescue Center.

Our fun and enthusiastic guide, LizzyMeeting the AnimalsBrown Boobies

Lizzy led the way to the first enclosure. It had sea birds called Brown Boobies.

Dado, one of the birds, had been brought in with bad wing. It healed at a strange angle. Lizzy explained that once broken, it is hard to fix bird bones. Dado can’t fly anymore so he lives at the center.

Another bird named Bobo was found on Playa Cocles with a fishing lure in its beak and more in its stomach. They were able to get Bobo healthy again but every time they tried to release him, he would beg people for food. They kept trying but it kept happening.

Peccaries

Next, we saw some peccaries. These are large animals that resemble wild boars. Most of the ones at the center had been kept as pets. This makes release very difficult because the animals have been humanized. 

Sloths

The next stop was Lizzy’s favorite, the two-toed sloths.

She taught us a lot about sloths, including that, despite their cuteness, they have large canine teeth and very sharp claws. She then taught us about what they eat, how they are actually pretty active despite looking like they are sleeping all the time, and how they climb down from trees to go to the bathroom.

Sadly, some of the sloths had ended up at the center because they were electrocuted by utility lines. Lizzy explained that this is somewhat common in the area. She then went on to tell us that the Jaguar Rescue Center has a program in place to put protective transformers on local power lines to stop this from happening.

Two-toed sloths hanging out in their elaborate enclosureTurtles

A big pond with lots of greenery housed several Nicaraguan slider turtles. These are sometimes kept as pets then people release them once they get too big.

Caiman

One of the most memorable animals we met was a spectacled caiman named Pancha. A couple on their honeymoon had found her in the shower at their hotel! Pancha had been kept as pet then released into wild once she got too big. She came to the hotel seeking out humans.

This caiman was definitely queen of the turtle pond!Margay

After the pond, we met one of the oldest animals at the center, a margay named Diabalino. Margays are the second smallest wild cat in Costa Rica.

Diabalino was brought in 15 years ago when the center was first started. He was found with his dead mother at the Panama border. The mother had been killed for fur. The cub was supposed to be sold. Diabalino was fed coffee and bread to make him seem more perked up for sale.

The margay was brought back to health by the Jaguar Rescue Center, but they could never successfully release him after seven attempts. He kept returning to the center.

Macaw Parrots

Next, we enjoyed some time with the chatty Scarlet and Great Green Macaws. Most of these had been kept as pets in poor conditions.

Lizzy taught us some interesting facts about these amazing birds and recommended the Ara Manzanillo to see them in the wild.

Ara Manzanillo, in the Puerto Viejo area, has a breeding program to increase the wild numbers of endangered Great Green Macaws. At that facility, you can see them flying free.

A Great Green Macaw and Scarlet MacawSnakes

An interesting part of the tour was learning about the fer de lances. These are probably the most dangerous snakes in Costa Rica.

The snakes at the Jaguar Rescue Center had previously been in milking facilities that make antivenom. Costa Rica is the leading producer of antivenom in the world. Apparently, when the snakes get older, they don’t produce as much and get sent to facilities like the Jaguar Rescue Center.

Baby Sloths

A highlight for just about everyone in our group were the baby sloths. They were climbing around on an open enclosure, so we were able to see them very close up.

The sloths all had various health problems, including a genetic growth disorder thought to be caused by a pesticide. Because of the genetic disorder, they can’t be released because you don’t want them to reproduce and have the problem continue.

Lizzy told us that overall, the Jaguar Rescue Center has a 98% success rate rehabilitating sloths so that was great news.

Sloth baby making itself comfortableMonkeys

Another interesting part of the tour was the monkey enclosure.

First, we learned Sansa’s story. Sansa was a spider monkey that had been abandoned by her troop as a baby. She had cataracts and was going blind. Cataracts in monkeys is very rare so no one had the right equipment to help. The center ended up using a human eye doctor to perform cataract surgery. Now, Sansa has 70-80% of her vision back.

The elder spider monkey, Paco, was good friends with Sansa. Paco had been kept by humans for 27 years and severely mistreated. It took a while for them to get Paco back to acting like a monkey, but he is doing much better now. Lizzy said that Sansa and Paco love each other and that Sansa really helps Paco’s mental state.

Paco the spider monkey

Although it was hard to hear some of the stories about the animals, it’s important to learn and raise awareness of the issues affecting Costa Rica’s wildlife. Our kids loved seeing them close up as well. Our eight-year old was entranced by each story and we all left with a feeling of wanting to help.

How You Can Help

The Jaguar Rescue Center operates on private donations and the proceeds from the center. It does not receive funding from the Costa Rican government. They have significant costs, not only to take care of the animals in the sanctuary, but also to treat the animals brought to them every day. The center gets anywhere from one to seven animals a day from the government or private parties.

You can help by taking a tour, adopting an animal, or making a donation.

They also have an Amazon Wishlist with equipment and supplies they need. You could bring some items with you on your visit.

Chart showing why these animals end up at the center

Donations also support their other conservation activities. These include:

(1) A Shock Free Zone program, where they purchase materials and work with the local electric company to insulate transformers in the southern Caribbean to reduce animal electrocutions.

(2) A rainforest protection program where they buy strategic properties in the southern Caribbean.

(3) Environmental awareness program for local schools.

(4) A wildlife monitoring program through camera traps in the Gandoca-Manzanillo area.

Planning A Visit to Jaguar Rescue CenterTour Cost

$26.13 per person (including tax)

Costa Rican Citizens: $16.13 per person (including tax)

Kids under 10 are free

Tickets

Tickets can be purchased online through the Jaguar Rescue Center website.

We recommend buying them in advance as this is a popular tour.

You can’t visit the Jaguar Rescue Center self-guided. You have to do a tour.

Tour Times

9:30 a.m. or 11:30 a.m. Open every day.

Duration

About 1.5 hours

Accessibility

The facility is handicap accessible. They have a wheelchair if someone needs one.

Facility Amenities

The Jaguar Rescue Center is a modern facility. It has a large reception area with a café selling drinks and some food. There’s also a small gift shop.

Food and drink options at the onsite cafeConclusion

The Jaguar Rescue Center is a great short tour if you want to see some of Costa Rica’s amazing wildlife close up and learn about the challenges that they face. The enclosures are nicely done and you can tell that the staff at the center genuinely cares about each animal. We highly recommend it.

Have a question about the Jaguar Rescue Center or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca: Caribbean Cool in Costa Rica – Our destination guide has more ideas for activities, plus recommendations for hotels and restaurants.

Cahuita: Culture and Calm on the Caribbean – If you’re looking for a quieter town to visit on the southern Caribbean coast, Cahuita is a great option.

Rental Car Discount: Unless you’re staying in the main area of Puerto Viejo, a rental car can be nice to have for exploring the area. Check out our discount for 10% off and free extras.

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Hiking the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

At the end of the road, south of Puerto Viejo on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, you’ll find the Gandoca-Manzanillo National Mixed Wildlife Refuge. This protected land is the ideal place to spot amazing wildlife like sloths, monkeys, birds, lizards, and even snakes. It also has picturesque beaches and gorgeous coastlines. In this post, we’ll share our experience hiking the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge with a guide.

Location and Layout

The Gandoca-Manzanillo National Mixed Wildlife Refuge (Refugio Nacional Mixto de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo) is located on Costa Rica’s southern Caribbean coast near the popular destination of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. From San Jose or SJO International Airport, the reserve is about 4.5-5 hours away.

The reserve has two ranger stations where you can start your visit.

The most popular is the Manzanillo Sector, found at the end of the paved road (Route 256). This is about 25 minutes south of Puerto Viejo. The other entrance is the Gandoca Sector. This is closer to the Panama border and harder to access.   

In total, the Gandoca-Manzanillo refuge protects an impressive 25,910 acres (10,485 hectares). About half is wild jungle, while the other half is coastline and reefs.

Remoteness and Safety

A deterrent for some thinking about visiting Gandoca-Manzanillo are reports of robberies along the trail.

People have had their cameras, backpacks, phones, wallets, and other belongings taken by thieves who approach them on the remote trails. This doesn’t happen all the time but enough to be worrisome. This was a concern for us too, which is why we hired a local guide.

Our guide knew everyone in the area, including all the reserve employees, parking attendants, coconut vendors, and other guides we passed. He also carried a small machete in a sheath on his belt, just for good measure.

We did not come across any sketchy people along the trails but still felt much better having a guide with us. He also added a lot to our experience, which we will explain below.

Tip: See the end of this post for more info on how we can help you hire a guide.     

Hiking the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife RefugeMeeting Our Guide

After driving south from our hotel in Playa Cocles, we arrived in Manzanillo around 8:00 a.m. Through the rows of palms, we could see that the beach outside the entrance was already getting busy with locals. It was a Sunday and school vacation in Costa Rica.

We soon found our guide, Haniel.

Entering the Reserve

Haniel led us to the small ranger station where he paid our entrance. Gandoca-Manzanillo is still a small, uncrowded reserve and entrance is by donation only.

Quick Wildlife Sightings

As we crossed the short suspension bridge to enter the reserve, Haniel pointed out some things in the creek below.

Two Night Herons were perched in a tree and a Jesus Christ lizard skittered along the bank. These lizards are known to run so quickly that they can cross the surface of the water without falling in.

Crossing the creek to enter the reserve

On the other side, Haniel asked what we were hoping to see today. Our kids quickly told him they wanted to see a jaguar (a far reach), but we also mentioned wanting to spot snakes and cool birds.

Haniel asked if we liked sloths. We, of course, said that we did. He then pointed out one that was directly above us in a tree. 

Three-toed sloth cozy in a tree

We continued a few hundred feet and Haniel showed us a helmeted iguana basking on a small tree. We had only seen this type of iguana once before in Costa Rica so were excited to get some pictures. They have a funny shaped head and sort of resemble chameleons.

Helmeted iguana (basilisk) blending inOff the Tourist Trail

While most visitors followed the wide main trail along the coast, Haniel directed us inland on a trail he liked called the Hidden Bridge Trail (Sendero Puente Escondido). There were no other people around.

After a short walk through the rainforest, we came to a rustic covered walkway.

Here, we saw another helmeted iguana and a coati (a raccoon-like animal with a long snout) up in a tree.   

Later, back on the dirt trail, Haniel took out his flashlight. Kneeling next to a rotting log, he asked our kids to look inside. There, hiding in the shadows, was a large tarantula!

Creepy tarantula!

When this trail came to an end, Haniel led us through the woods on a very faint path. Without him, we wouldn’t have even noticed it. This was where our tour really went off the tourist trail. 

Magnificent Trees

As our family followed Haniel over the crest of a small hill, we realized we were in thick primary forest. Tall trees surrounded us and the forest floor was covered with undisturbed leaves. Haniel began telling us all about the different trees we passed.

We saw balsas, known for their lightweight wood that is often used to make boats. We gazed at towering guacima colorado trees that were well over 100 years old. There were even rubber trees.

This tree is thought to be hundreds of years old

Haniel took a few moments at each one to tell us some quick information. We learned about the giant mountain almonds that nearly went extinct for their desirable wood. They are also the favorite tree of the endangered Great Green Macaw, which we had seen at Ara Manzanillo nearby.

At the base of one tree, Haniel found a long stick and began tapping the roots. Soon some bullet ants came rushing out, investigating what was going on. These ants have a powerful sting that people say hurts as much as getting shot.

Poison Dart Frogs

Around every corner, there seemed to be another surprise. Haniel told us he thought he could find some snakes and was leading us to a spot he knew.

Along the way, we came across a couple of interesting frogs. One was a tiny strawberry poison dart frog. These bright red frogs are like the blue-jean poison dart frog but lack the blue color on their legs. With small black speckles on their red skin, they do resemble strawberries.

Cute strawberry poison dart frog climbing a tree

Another exciting encounter was a Talamanca rocket frog. We had never seen this before. They are endemic to the area and similar to poison dart frogs, but without any poison. 

Talamanca rocket frog hiding in its little denSnakes

It wasn’t much longer before Haniel found our first snake of the day. It was an eyelash pit viper. This one was brownish and blended in with the tree trunk.

These snakes can be all sorts of different colors. Later, we saw a bright yellow one. Haniel approached it and carefully took some close-ups with our phone. He told us that these snakes are not aggressive but highly venomous. 

A yellow eyelash pit viperBeautiful Birds

As we weaved through thick forest and underbrush, Haniel continued to show us special plants, seeds, insects, spiders, and many birds.

Some of the birds we spotted were the Common black hawk, Yellow-throated Toucan, Crested Guan, and Collared Aracari.

Collared Aracari up in a treeFinishing with a Coastal View

Folding away some leaves, not even on a path at this point, we suddenly stepped back onto the main trail. A few people walking past seemed surprised to see us.

We followed the trail north, back toward the ranger station, until we reached Miss May Point.

The walkway out to Miss May Point

Miss May Point is probably the most iconic spot in the reserve. Many people come here to take pictures of the small island just offshore and jungle-backed beach.

The view from Miss May Point

This was a touristy part of our visit but something we wouldn’t have wanted to miss. The views were gorgeous.

Just 15 minutes later, we were back at our car sipping some coconuts with our faithful guide. It was the perfect ending to our wildlife-filled hike through the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge!

How to Visit the Gandoca-Manzanillo RefugeHours

Open every day from 6:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. (last entrance)

Cost

Voluntary donation to enter (cash or credit card). Proceeds go toward trail maintenance and park administration costs.

Self-Guided Hike

From the ranger station, the main trail is 5 km (3.4 miles) to Punta Mona. According to the ranger, this takes about 2.5 hours there and back. Miss May Point (Mirador Manzanillo) is only about 15 minutes from the ranger station along a well-trodden path.

Hiring a Guide

While we usually hike on our own, we were happy that we hired a guide for our visit to Gandoca-Manzanillo. We never would have seen as much wildlife without him and he made us feel safe on the trails.

If you are interested in using the same guide we did, please send us an email at bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com. Include your preferred date and the number of people in your party (adults and children, with ages of kids).

Guided tours cost $60 adults, $30 children ages 6-11 and go from 8:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m./12:00 p.m. Entrance and fruit are included. *Transportation available for an additional charge.

Have a question about visiting the Gandoca-Manzanillo Refuge or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below. Need more information to help you plan? Check out these articles:

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca: Caribbean Cool in Costa Rica – Learn about where to stay, what restaurants to eat at, and fun activities to do in the Puerto Viejo area.

Ara Manzanillo: A Great Green Macaw Tour – This quick tour will let you see dozens of beautiful Great Green Macaw parrots flying all around you in the wild.

Cahuita National Park: Wildlife Just a Step Away – Another less remote park in the area with outstanding wildlife and beautiful beaches.

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Cano Blanco Boat Taxi to Tortuguero

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

One of the most important things to know about visiting Tortuguero is that you’ll need to take a boat or small plane to get there. This village on Costa Rica’s northern Caribbean coast is surrounded by water, with no good roads around. Luckily, taking a boat up the canals is a fun and scenic way to arrive. In this post, we’ll tell you about accessing Tortuguero from Cano Blanco boat dock.

Boat Taxi Access Points to Tortuguero

Before we cover Cano Blanco, we’ll explain about the two other places where you can take a boat taxi to Tortuguero.

The most common is La Pavona. La Pavona is located inland near the town of Guapiles, about one hour off Highway 32. The boat ride from La Pavona to Tortuguero used to take a little over one hour. However, due to low river levels, the ride has been taking much longer than normal so fewer lodges and tour companies are using it now. La Pavona has a public boat taxi that operates daily on a set schedule.

Another access point is Moin, just north of the port of Limon. This ride is much longer (around 3-4 hours) and more expensive. Moin doesn’t have a public boat. Boat taxis are arranged informally through local captains.

For more information about these and other ways to get to Tortuguero, read our post, Getting to Tortuguero.

Location and Directions

Cano Blanco is located close to the Caribbean coast, not far from the village of Parismina.

You can self-drive to Cano Blanco or take a shuttle van. If you need help arranging a private shuttle from San Jose, feel free to contact us through our Shuttle Booking page.

If you’re driving from San Jose, you’ll take Highway 32 east. Once you reach the small city of Siquirres, get off the highway and take Route 806. This is a side road. It starts as pavement but turns to dirt in about 20 minutes. Portions are paved, while others are still dirt with a lot of bumps. The road is flat, though, so you don’t need a 4×4 vehicle. An SUV with higher clearance for the bumps would make for a more comfortable ride.

The road to Cano Blanco

The drive from Siquirres takes you through the heart of Costa Rica’s banana plantations. You’ll pass hectares and hectares of banana fields and catch glimpses of Dole’s and Chiquita’s processing plants.

A Chiquita plant we saw on the way to Cano Blanco

On the sides of the road in a few places, you even can see the banana tracks that they use to move the large bunches of bananas to the packing plant. These are known as “banana trains.”

Look on the left side to see the metal “banana trains”

The total drive time from when you get off the highway to Cano Blanco is about 1.5 hours. Here is a map link to the exact location of the boat docks.

Arriving at Cano BlancoParking

When you’ve arrived at Cano Blanco, the road will end. You’ll see an old sign and a lot of other cars around. In front of you will be the beautiful Parismina River.

Arriving at Cano Blanco

Someone working will take your plate number and help you park. They have a secure, guarded lot. As always in Costa Rica, though, we don’t recommend leaving anything inside your car just in case.

Parking is 3,000 colones (about $5.50 USD) per day.

Parking lotFacility

Next to the parking lot is a rustic open-air building with bathrooms ($1 per person to use) and a few tables.

They also sell basic refreshments like bottled drinks and chips. Prices are a little high. We recommend stocking up in advance if you’d like something for the boat ride. Siquirres, the town where you turn off the highway, has a lot of stores.

Small store at Cano BlancoCanal Ride

The boat ride from Cano Blanco to Tortuguero takes around 1.5-2 hours. But you hardly realize it since it is such a lovely ride.

As you glide along the calm waters of the canals, you’ll get to enjoy views of the stunning green landscape. Thick mangrove fills the riverbank, with towering trees mixed in.

It’s not unusual to spot wildlife along the way as well. On our trips, we have seen crocodiles, caimans, and many types of birds.

Our boat captain stopped to show us a crocodile along the riverbank

You’ll pass a few houses, but this area is very remote without much around. Parts of it cut through Tortuguero National Park and is protected.

The ride itself is comfortable. The boats vary but are typically medium-sized (holding up to around 20-30 passengers) and sit lower on the water, making for a smooth ride. In case of rain, they usually have plastic windows that roll down.

Our boatArranging a Boat Taxi from Cano Blanco to Tortuguero

Most people accessing Tortuguero through Cano Blanco will be doing so because their lodge suggested it. Some lodges, like Tortuga Lodge where we have stayed, offer boat transport from Cano Blanco only.

A few shuttle companies offer van transport from San Jose, Arenal, etc. to Cano Blanco, then take you by boat the rest of the way to Tortuguero. Prices are around $55-75 per person for shared service. If you lodge needs you to depart from Cano Blanco, a private shuttle van from San Jose to the dock is around $235-260. You can check rates here.

Be sure to arrange your boat taxi in advance. There are no public boats in Cano Blanco so you can’t just show up.

Tortuguero from the waterHave a question about taking a boat taxi from Cano Blanco to Tortuguero? Ask us below.Looking for more information to plan your trip? Here are some articles:

Getting to Tortuguero: Covers flying and other launch points for boat taxis to Tortuguero.

Sea Turtle Nesting Tour: A night turtle watching tour is one of the most unique activities you can do in Costa Rica. Learn about our experience with this post.

Costa Rica Rental Car Discount: If you’re renting a car for your trip, be sure to check out our discount through one of Costa Rica’s most trusted companies.

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Sea Turtle Conservancy Visitor Center in Tortuguero

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

The Sea Turtle Conservancy does essential work to protect endangered sea turtles that nest along Tortuguero’s beaches. Just outside the main area of town is their visitor’s center. Here, at the small museum, you can learn a little bit about the organization and how they are helping sea turtles. In this post, we’ll tell you what to expect on a visit to the Sea Turtle Conservancy Visitor Center in Tortuguero.

Background

The Sea Turtle Conservancy is the world’s oldest sea turtle research and conservation group. It was founded in 1959 by the biologist Dr. Archie Carr to save sea turtles from extinction through science-based conservation.

Over the last 60+ years, the organization has done important research into sea turtles and the threats they face. They have applied this knowledge in Costa Rica and other key locations around the world to help the sea turtle population recover.

Their work focuses on green sea turtles. Interestingly, Tortuguero has the largest green turtle nesting population in the entire world.

You can learn more about the Sea Turtle Conservancy on their website.

Sign showing the Sea Turtle Conservancy’s recent dataShort Tour

After a short walk from the main area of Tortuguero, we stepped off the sandy beach path and entered the Sea Turtle Conservancy Visitor Center.

Alexa, a volunteer from Mexico, asked if we would like to walk around the small museum by ourselves or have him come to give some information. We said we love to learn from him.

One of the exhibits inside the small museumGeneral Information

Alexa started by explaining that three types of turtles lay their eggs along Tortuguero’s beaches, the leatherback, green sea turtle, and hawksbill. Loggerhead turtles also come but there have only been 16 in the last 50 to 60 years.

He pointed to a real turtle skull to help us get to know their size. Interestingly, hawksbill turtles have a distinctive beak. They use it to eat coral. Our young sons got to touch the old skulls, which they thought was really cool.

Alexa teaching us about the hawksbill turtle

Threats to Turtles

Alexa then went on to teach us about the dangers affecting sea turtles. These include habitat loss, illegal fishing, climate change, and ocean plastic. Leatherbacks, for example, eat plastic bags because they look like jellyfish. In Costa Rica, poaching is another big problem. Locals take eggs from nests to eat or sell them.

Life Cycle

Alexa also taught us about the turtle life cycle.

After the mother turtle lays her eggs, the eggs develop in the sand for 60 to 70 days before hatching. The sex of the turtle, we learned, is determined by the sand temperature. With climate change and increasing temperatures, more turtles are being born female, he explained.

Learning about turtlesWork of the Volunteers

Finally, Alexa taught us about some of the organization’s work in Tortuguero. One of their most important roles is to protect the nests from poachers. We learned that this can be a dangerous job, as poachers are often not willing to back down.

A green sea turtle nest with hatchlings ready to emerge that we saw on the beach in Tortuguero. Volunteers flag and guard nests like these.

The volunteers also track nesting. When a turtle comes to nest, they use a counter to record the number of eggs. They also measure the turtle, tag it with a metal clip, and microchip it. This data is then put into the computer and used for tracking.

An exhibit showing how they monitor sea turtles

He told us that just the other day, a turtle came to nest that had first come to that beach about 20 years ago. The turtle was estimated to be around 42 years old now. Turtles return to the same beach that they were born to nest.

Turtle tracks and an old nestVideo

After a quick 15 or so minute tour, we walked to the building next door for a short video. It taught us more about the Sea Turtle Conservancy organization and how it got started.

Watching the short video

We also learned more about their work with the local community. This has been vital to getting the turtle population numbers back up. One of their main goals has been to teach locals to protect the sea turtles rather than poach them, as the turtles bring tourists, and thus, jobs.

Tourism is the main industry in the village of Tortuguero, which draws thousands of visitors every year because of its amazing wildlife viewing.

The video explained that the Sea Turtle Conservancy helped establish protocols for night turtle watching. We have done a turtle watching tour in Tortuguero and were very impressed with how the tour was run. We didn’t feel like we were disturbing the nesting process like on some other turtle tours in Costa Rica.

Planning Your Visit to the Sea Turtle Conservancy Visitor CenterCost

$2.50 per person

Hours

Open daily, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. They are closed from 1-2 p.m. for lunch.

Souvenirs

They also sell T-shirts, bags, cups, and other souvenirs with the Sea Turtle Conservancy logo. They’re a cute take home item and help support their cause.

Conclusion

The Sea Turtle Conservancy Visitor Center in Tortuguero is a nice, quick stop if you have a free half hour. You’ll learn a lot about the concerns facing Tortuguero’s most iconic animal and it’s an easy way to help.

Have a question about visiting the Sea Turtle Conservancy or you have been? Leave a comment below.Looking for more information to plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Tortuguero Sea Turtle Nesting Tour: If you want to see a turtle, a night turtle watching tour is a great option. Learn about our experience.

Cerro Tortuguero: Hike and Viewpoint – The short hike to Cerro Tortuguero offers one of the best views of Tortuguero and its surrounding rainforest.

Ara Manzanillo: A Great Green Macaw Tour – If you’re heading to the southern Caribbean coast, be sure to check out Ara Manzanillo. They are doing amazing work to protect endangered macaw parrots.

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