Matthew Houde's Blog, page 8

Cano Negro: A Wildlife Boat Tour on the Rio Frio

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Costa Rica is well known for its impressive wildlife, but some places offer notably better viewing than others. One such spot is the Cano Negro Mixed Wildlife Refuge near the country’s northern border with Nicaragua. This remote wildlife refuge is best accessed from La Fortuna or Bijagua. We recently took a boat tour along the river. In this post, we’ll share some of the amazing animals and birds we saw and how you can plan a visit.

About Cano Negro Mixed Wildlife Refuge

The Cano Negro Mixed Wildlife Refuge (Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro) is an expansive river and wetland ecosystem near the Costa Rica-Nicaragua border.

With an impressive 9,969 hectares (24,634 acres) of protected habitat, this national park hosts around 160 species of mammals, including monkeys, sloths, and jaguars. There are 90 species of bats alone!

Birds are also abundant. The wetlands are an important stop for North American migrants that overwinter in the tropics. More than 300 different bird species have been identified at Cano Negro.

Our Tour Experience Driving to Cano Negro

Our tour began in the town of La Fortuna near the base of Arenal Volcano. Here, we hopped into a small van with our tour guide, Alvaro, and a few other tourists. Alvaro explained that the drive to Cano Negro and the Rio Frio (Cold River) would take about 1.25 hours.

It was a long drive but far from boring. As we passed farm fields, small rivers, and patches of forest, Alvaro explained all about the area.

The farms, he told us, were growing yucca, cassava, and taro root vegetables. He explained more about each one, how they are planted and harvested, and what they are used for.

As we got closer to Cano Negro, Alvaro turned down a bumpy side road. We drove more slowly now, around the ruts and big bumps. We also started to see more wildlife. There were wading birds and even some small caiman (crocodiles) in the wet drainage basins along the road.

Flooded fields on the way to the riverThe Rio Frio

We soon made it to the tour operator’s base camp built along the Rio Frio. Outside, several large pontoon boats were docked.

The Rio Frio, we learned, runs through the Cano Negro Mixed Wildlife Refuge and eventually flows into Nicaragua. Shortly after crossing the border, it connects with the enormous Lake Nicaragua.

The wide river was brown and murky with large trees and thick shrubs along the edges. Oversized iguanas sunned themselves on the grassy bank by the boats.

Stepping out of the van, our group was led into a big building where some other small tour groups congregated. There was fresh fruit, coffee, juice, and cold water waiting for us. We also met the other guides who would be with us that day. Along with Alvaro, there were two guides named Jason and the boat captain, Max.

The pontoon boat we would be riding inCano Negro Boat Tour First Sightings

Without even pushing off from the dock, our guides started to point out the wildlife around us. On the left side of the boat, a large caiman was partially submerged, keeping a close eye on us.

One of the many caimans we saw

In the nearby tree was a camouflaged bird called a potoo. Our guide Alvaro, zoomed in with his scope. The impressive bird looked exactly like tree bark.  

A well-camouflaged potoo

As we began motoring down the slow-moving river, Max, the captain, steered us closer to the forest. Our guides pointed out iguanas and river turtles sunning themselves on logs.

We also saw monkeys. First, there was a troop of howler monkeys. These bigger blackish-brown monkeys moved slowly through the trees. As the boat went under them, they let out loud bellows. Our guides told us these monkeys could be heard as far as 2 miles (3.2 km) away.

A larger male, the alpha, snapped branches and tossed them into the water below at us.

A howler monkey in the trees on the river’s edgeThe Golden Monkey

Upon closer look, we noticed something strange about one of the monkeys. One of them looked different. Instead of a blackish brown, it had much lighter fur that was a gold/orange color.

Our guides explained that we were indeed seeing something special.

This monkey was a young female that they had seen before. She was born with a genetic mutation (of recessive genes) that causes less pigmentation in the fur. So instead of having dark fur like the rest of the troop, she has a golden hue.

The very special orange colored howler monkey

Jason explained that this is the only one they know of in the area but that there have been three or four reported in Costa Rica. In the whole world, there are only around nine monkeys like this. Other than the color, they are completely normal and accepted by the group.

Birds

After a long pause trying to get good photos of the golden monkey, Max throttled the boat slowly against the current. We saw more howler monkeys and many caimans but also a lot of birds.

A Ringed King Fisher

Some that we identified were the Great Egret, Ringed kingfisher, Amazon kingfisher, Bare-throated Tiger Heron, Green Heron, Turkey Vulture, Montezuma Oropendola, Collard Aracari, Sungreb, Wood Stork, and Anhinga. The Anhingas are interesting birds that have a bill that can spear fish. They are most often seen drying their wings on logs.

An Anhinga

Our guides told us that birds congregate year-round in the wetlands but especially during dry periods.

Other Wildlife

During the approximately two hours that we spent on the river, we saw some other interesting wildlife as well.

On the underside of a tree branch we saw a family of long-nosed bats. They were sleeping together in a curved line. Jason told us that they position themselves this way to look like a snake. This keeps away predators. Each bat, we learned, can eat up to 2,000 mosquitoes per night!

Bats sleeping in a specific formation to resemble a snake 

We also saw many medium sized green basilisk lizards. These are sometimes called Jesus Christ lizards because they can sort of walk on top of water. Alvaro explained that their webbed feet create tiny air bubbles that help keep them off the surface of the water. With some speed, they can travel over the water for up to 6 or 8 meters (20 to 26 feet)!

There was also another type of monkey we encountered, the spider monkey. These were much more shy than the howlers. We saw one troop swinging through the branches with their long arms. Our guides explained that these monkeys only have four fingers and that the fifth one was eliminated through evolution.

A spider monkeyLunch

After returning back to the base camp, everyone was excited for lunch. The staff had been busy preparing traditional casados (plates with rice, beans, chicken or vegetables, salad, and plantain chips). For the kids, there were either chicken or fish fingers.

Our lunchTrapiche Demonstration

After a hearty lunch, we all loaded into the vans. But there was one more surprise. Just down the street, we stopped at a small farm.

As we shuffled through an old wooden corral, the guides showed how they traditionally grind sugar cane to make juice and molasses (called tapa de dulce). We then got to try some of the agua dulce (cold sugar cane drink).

The quick trapiche demonstration

On the other side of the corral, we took seats on simple wooden stools. The guides served us raw cacao beans alongside some freshly brewed coffee. For those willing to try it, a shot of local guaro (liquor made from sugar cane) was also offered up.

This farm stop was just what we needed for the long van ride back to La Fortuna and the perfect way to end our tour.  

Planning Your Visit

There are a few different companies that offer tours to Cano Negro from La Fortuna.

If you’d like to book the Cano Negro wildlife boat tour through the same company we used and often send clients to, send us an email at bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com. Please include the number of adults, children (with ages), date you’d like to do the tour, and your pickup location. Booking through us costs the same and helps support our website!

Tour Cost

$72 per person adults, $50 per person children ages 4-11. Rates plus 13% tax. Children 3 and under are free.

Time Offered

7:30 a.m. (pickup time at La Fortuna-area hotels and vacation rentals).

Duration

Full day, 8-9 hours, including transportation

Accessibility

The Cano Negro wildlife boat tour is handicap accessible and good for any age or ability. There is limited walking and the paths around the facility are suitable for a wheelchair. The boat has a sturdy metal ramp to board and there is very little movement when on the pontoon boat (no rocking or swaying).

What’s Included

Transportation from most La Fortuna-area hotels and vacation rentals, certified naturalist guides, snack, drinks, coffee, lunch, and the farm demonstration.  

A big caiman – don’t worry, we took this with our zoom lens. It was far away!Have a question about visiting Cano Negro or want to share what you saw? Leave us a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Arenal Ecoglide: Family-Friendly Zip Lining – The focus of this zip line is to make you feel safe and comfortable but still have a blast!

A Safari River Float in La Fortuna/Arenal: Here is another mellow boat trip to see wildlife but much closer to La Fortuna.

La Fortuna Waterfall: A Tropical Oasis – Visiting this beautiful cascade only takes a couple of hours but is well worth the stop.

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Nuevo Arenal’s Cote Lake: A Historic UFO Site

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

There’s always something new to discover when traveling around Costa Rica. Usually, it is a hidden waterfall or amazing wildlife encounter. But on a recent visit to Nuevo Arenal, we were surprised to learn some out-of-this-world history about a nearby site called Lake Cote. In this post, we’ll share more about Costa Rica’s largest natural lake and how it was made famous by a 1971 UFO photograph.

Location

Cote Lake or Lago Cote is located near the town of Nuevo Arenal. This quaint locals’ town is a popular expat community. It has smaller neighborhoods built along the shores of a much larger, manmade lake called Lake Arenal.

Cote Lake is only about 3 km (1.9 miles) off the main road (Route 142). And while it is Costa Rica’s largest natural lake, you would hardly know it is there. The area around the lake is mostly undeveloped, with beautiful tropical forest, pastureland, and distant mountains and volcanoes.   

The gravel road to Cote LakeUFO History

We first learned about Cote Lake and its strange history at a restaurant in Nuevo Arenal.

Los Platillos Voladores (the Flying Saucers) is an Italian restaurant that makes the false claim of being “the worst restaurant in the world.”

They are said to serve “alien food” but instead we enjoyed fresh pasta and tasty tiramisu. When we asked about the funky alien-themed décor, the owner happily told us that her husband is a UFO enthusiast.

She then explained about the famous photograph taken above Lake Cote, the stories of neighbors seeing mysterious lights there, and how explorer Jacques Cousteau once searched the lake for clues.

The Italian restaurant where we learned about the lakeA Closer Look

With our older son’s eyes now lit up and no plans the next day, we began our research on Cote Lake and planned a visit.

The Famous UFO Photograph

A quick Internet search turned up the famous photo of what appears to be a flying saucer. The unidentified object, which looks like a bronze disc, appears to be hovering over the lake.

The photo was taken in 1971 by Costa Rica’s Geographic Institute (Instituto Geográfico Nacional de Costa Rica). They were doing an aerial land survey in the area to plan for a hydroelectric project. Years later, that project eventually became Lake Arenal and the Arenal dam.

During the survey, the plane flew at about 10,000 feet (3,048 meters) and took photos of the land below at 13-second intervals. Only that single negative contained the strange object, suggesting it wasn’t a mechanical camera defect.

The Cote Lake UFO photo is considered one of the highest quality and most legitimate photographs in the world by many authorities.

The famous photo that started it all. Photo Credit: Instituto Geográfico Nacional de Costa Rica via Wikimedia CommonsOther Sightings

Deeper digging brought us to an article and video by the Costa Rica news outlet, Teletica.

In the video, journalist Jose Miguel Cruz visits the lake to learn about its mysteries. He camps near the shores and speaks with neighbors and UFO enthusiasts.

Stories (in Spanish) and even one video clip of a strange light ring over the lake are discussed. A worker at a former eco-lodge near the lake said there have been many occurrences over the years. 

We never did find any information about Jacques Cousteau visiting, aside from an old sign, but who knows.

This is the sign for the lake on the main roadVisiting the Lake

The next day we made a pilgrimage to Cote Lake ourselves.

From the main road, a secondary gravel road rises and then dips down to the lake.

From the hill above the lake, you can see its size.

Cote Lake is the largest, natural, freshwater body of water in Costa Rica but still relatively small at only 1.98 square kilometers (0.76 sq. miles). Its depth is said to be between 6-18 meters (19-59 feet). The lake also has a unique heart shape that you can see on maps. Here is a link to Google Maps to see it for yourself. Just change to satellite view.

View of the lake

Our two sons expected to see flying saucers darting around, but instead, we saw some relaxed cows chewing on grass and a nice landscape of trees and mountains. It was very quiet and all but deserted.

Accessing Cote Lake

As we drove to the lowest point on the road, we came closer to the lake. An abandoned set of lots with an old access road led us closer. The grassy road had deep muddy ruts, so we parked and walked the remaining five minutes down the steep hill to the lake’s edge.

There we found a beautiful tree hanging over the calm water. The restaurant owner in town had mentioned this place. She told us it was a nice spot to picnic and had a strong spiritual energy.

The spiritual tree at Cote Lake with water on both sides

Our kids were more into searching for treasures and UFO clues than relaxing, but it was a very tranquil spot. We had briefly read during our research that one of Costa Rica’s indigenous tribes, the Maleku, considered the lake a sacred place.

Getting There

During our visit to Cote Lake in June 2023, the road was gravel and in good condition. We would still recommend a four-wheel drive vehicle or something with higher clearance and good tires, just to be safe. Road conditions on back roads like this one can change throughout the year because of heavy rains and lack of maintenance.

Road conditionsDirections to Cote Lake

From the gas station in Nuevo Arenal, drive west on Route 142 for approximately 4.5 km (3 miles). As you come up a hill, there will be a neighborhood on your left called Residencial Las Flores (very small sign). Just after that, take a right onto a dirt road. There was an Eco Lodge sign at the time of our visit.

Climb the dirt/gravel road for about 2 km (1.2 miles). You will come to a small lodge called Red Sunset of Guanacaste. Continue for a minute more and go right (old entrance to Eco Lodge on your left).

Continue down the hill, you will start to see the lake. After about another 2 km, you will come to the old development called Cote Lake Villages on your left. The road/driveway was heavily rutted on our visit, so we parked and walked the remaining 5 minutes down to the water’s edge.

Do not leave any valuables in your car, just in case.

The access road to the lake’s shoreConclusion

Cote Lake is a unique spot in Costa Rica and shrouded with mystery. Whether it is a place where alien spaceships congregate, a spiritual place of worship, or just a tranquil spot to enjoy nature, it is worth a visit if you are in the Nuevo Arenal area. Just be sure to have your camera ready— because who knows what you might see!

Yes, we photoshopped this Have a question about visiting Cote Lake or want to share your story? Leave us a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan? Check out these posts:

Fishing on Lake Arenal: Nearby Lake Arenal has some hard fighting fish. Learn what species you can catch and read about our fishing experience.

El Jilguero Ecotourism Project: Hiking and Fumaroles – This off-the-beaten-path reserve near Lake Arenal has volcanic steam vents and lush cloud forest.

Hanging Bridges in Costa Rica: Where to Go for the Best Experience – Learn what destinations have the best hanging bridges.

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El Jilguero Ecotourism Project: Hiking and Fumaroles

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

If you’re headed to the Lake Arenal area and want to do an off-the-beaten path hike, El Jilguero Ecotourism Project may be the perfect fit. This little-known ecotourism project is in the mountains on the backside of Tenorio Volcano. On a visit, you can walk the rustic trail to see rainforest, cloud forest, and even volcanic fumaroles (steam vents). In this post, we’ll tell you about trail conditions, what you’ll see, and how to arrange a visit.

Location

El Jilguero Proyecto Ecoturistico (El Jilguero Ecotourism Project) is located near the small town of Tierras Morenas. The closest major, though still small, towns are Nuevo Arenal and Tilaran, each about 45 minutes away. Our family was staying in Nuevo Arenal when we visited.

Though not far off the main road around Lake Arenal, El Jilguero is up in the mountains. Access is via a steep dirt road that is rough in places (4×4 required). See below for directions and driving conditions.

Although the drive is rough, it is well worth it. From the top on a clear day, you can see all of the Cordillera de Tilaran mountain range, Rincon de la Vieja Volcano, Miravalles Volcano, Tenorio Volcano, and Arenal Volcano.

View going up the mountain to the project. Note the wind turbines in the distance.Background

The name for the project, El Jilguero, comes from a local bird, in English called the Black-faced solitaire.

This gray and black bird is in the thrush family and has a distinct orange beak and legs. It prefers dense, wet mountain forest, the kind of environment you find at the project.

El Jilguero Ecotourism Project was started in 2021. The land where the project is located is actually part of Tenorio Volcano National Park, but on the other side of the volcano.

Tenorio Volcano National Park is well known for the Rio Celeste, a gorgeous river and waterfall with bright blue water. The Rio Celeste side of the park is best accessed from the town of Bijagua. For more information about visiting that area of the park, read our post, the Enchanting Rio Celeste.

The Jilguero project was created when the Costa Rican government purchased private land (about 200 hectares/494 acres) to add to Tenorio Volcano National Park.

Today, the project encompasses 1.8 hectares (4.5 acres) of primary and secondary forest. We would be exploring just a small fraction of this on our day hike.

The project’s sign with Tenorio Volcano in the distanceStarting the Tour

After we made it to the top of the mountain, we parked outside a simple building and met Mauricio, who would be our guide for the morning. He was a young local from the area and part of one of the 18 families who worked on the project.

With the cool breeze blowing, he explained a little about the project then led us to the trail.

The Trail

As we descended the hill, the forest quickly became dense and wet. Mauricio explained that the surrounding forest was a mix of cloud forest, due to the altitude, and tropical rainforest.

Sendero El Jilguero (El Jilguero Trail) was rustic but beautiful.

Along the two kilometer (1.2 mile) path, we saw giant trees covered in thick moss, bromeliads, and crystal-clear streams. The streams and rivers that run through the property were slightly acidic because of volcanic minerals. We learned that some locals swim in these natural pools.

A tree covered in moss

We also came across lots of interesting plants and flowers. One medicinal plant, caña agria, was used to make a drink that is good for the kidneys.

Some flowers called flor de un dia stood out in the grassy areas of the property. These white, purple, or lavender orchids bloom for only one day, hence the name “one day flower.”

The one day orchid

Mauricio was very knowledgeable about everything we saw, passionate about the environment, and taught us a lot.

Our guide, Mauricio, teaching us about the hot lips plantWildlife

For wildlife, Sam, our son, spotted a tiny brown frog in the leaf litter. We also saw some butterflies and interesting insects.

A tiny Noble’s rain frog A beautiful Blue-winged EurybiaFumaroles/Hornillas

After spending an hour or so walking through the forest, we headed back to the car to access the other side of the trail.

If we had kept walking, we would have eventually connected to the fumaroles area, but the hike was a little hard for our youngest son (age 4 at the time). Mauricio thought it would be better to drive to the other trailhead right off the road so we could reach the bubbling river faster.

From the road, the grassy trail down to the river was very steep but in good condition. The clouds from the morning had given way to sun and we all had to take off our jackets. High up on the mountain, the weather seemed to shift quickly.

We soon entered the forest once again and came to a small opening in the ground. This had charcoal-colored mud and was steaming a little. With a stick, Mauricio moved the mud and leaves covering the hole to reveal bubbling water erupting from the ground. The heat from Tenorio Volcano caused steam vents like this when it released hot gas and vapor out of the ground.

The first steam vent we saw

Continuing on the path, we came to the main point of interest: the fumarole river.

This was a section of the river with about 10 steam vents. The hot air made the mud and water bubble constantly. We were able to view it safely from behind a fence and got lots of pictures and videos. It was crazy to think that the volcano’s energy was this powerful.

The steaming river Birds

On the way back to the car, Mauricio heard some strange bird sounds on a side trail.

Sure enough, there was a flock of Orange-collared Manakins hopping around in the trees. These small orange and black birds make a snapping sound with their wings. They are shy and somewhat hard to find so it was a real treat to see them, even if only from a distance.

We then hiked back up the hill, Jenn carrying our youngest son in her arms, thanked Mauricio for a great morning, and went back to our hotel.

Visiting El Jilguero Ecotourism ProjectBooking a Tour

This is a newer project so everything is very informal. Tours can be arranged from 7:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.

We contacted them through WhatsApp, which is how we would recommend setting up a tour. Their WhatsApp is +506 8717-3965

You can find more information about the project on their Facebook page.

Cost

5,000 colones per person (about $10 USD)

What to Bring/Wear

The climate is a little cooler compared to the lake area and changes quickly at El Jilguero. We recommend lightweight long pants, a T-shirt, and light raincoat. For footwear, the trail is steep, uneven in places, and often muddy. Hiking boots or sturdy sneakers are best.

Also bring some repellent, sunscreen, snacks, and plenty of water as there are no amenities nearby.

Road Conditions and Directions

El Jilguero Ecotourism Project is off Route 142, the road that goes around Lake Arenal.

From Nuevo Arenal, go west on Route 142. After Piedras, take a right onto Route 927. You’ll take this side road for a few minutes. The road is paved.

Near the town of Tierras Morenas, take a right, then a left to get on the dirt road to the project. There is a sign.

This is the left you take to get on the side (dirt) road

The building where the tour starts is 4 km (2.5 miles) or about 20 minutes from this point.

The last dirt road you take is bumpy and steep. We highly recommend a four-wheel drive vehicle with good clearance. This road is not used a lot and was much like a trail at the time of our visit.

Road to the project

Here is a link to Google Maps with the exact location. Make sure to load the map before you leave because cell service is bad at the project.

Conclusion

El Jilguero Ecotourism Project is a beautiful property with lots to discover. You could easily spend several hours, checking out the dense forest and interesting plants and volcanic features. If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten path hike near Lake Arenal, it’s well worth a trip.

Have a question about visiting El Jilguero Ecotourism Project? Ask us below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

Mirador El Silencio: For an off-the-beaten path hike around the popular Arenal Volcano, Mirador El Silencio is a less crowded option.

Madre Verde Nature Reserve in Palmares: If you’re in the San Ramon area, this private reserve was created to reforest former farmland. You can walk its well-maintained trails to see thick tropical dry forest and some scenic viewpoints.

Rainmaker Conservation Project: Rainmaker is another private reserve in the countryside near Manuel Antonio with a rustic trail through dense jungle, hanging bridges, and waterfalls.

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Fishing on Lake Arenal

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Costa Rica has long been known as an excellent sportfishing destination. Bordering both the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea, there are many opportunities to hook up to some amazing trophy fish. But what about inland opportunities? In this post, we’ll share what kind of fish lurk in Costa Rica’s largest lake, Lake Arenal. We’ll also share our experience fishing on the lake and how to book a trip yourself. 

Lake ArenalLocation

Lake Arenal is located in Costa Rica’s north-central region. The two closest tourist destinations are La Fortuna and Monteverde. A few smaller towns that border the lake are Nuevo Arenal, El Castillo, Puerto San Luis, and Tronadora.

Lake Arenal is about 2.5 hours from Costa Rica’s LIR International Airport in Liberia and 3 hours from SJO International Airport near San Jose.

Lake ArenalSize and History

Lake Arenal or Lago Arenal is Costa Rica’s largest lake. It is roughly 33 square miles (85 sq. km) and has a maximum depth of around 180 feet (55 meters). Surprisingly, it wasn’t always so big.

Originally, a smaller lake sat within the valley. Then, in 1979, the Costa Rican government constructed a large hydroelectric dam on what is now the eastern edge of the lake. The 230-foot (70-meter) tall dam increased the lake’s size to what it is today.

In the process, the old town of Arenal was flooded and the townspeople relocated to what is now called Nuevo Arenal (New Arenal).

During times of drought and low water levels you can still see old farm fences, and occasionally the town’s church steeple or other structures. Many trees and shrubs also were submerged, creating some excellent fish habitat. 

Old cattle trough exposed during low water levelsWhat Kind of Fish Are in Lake Arenal?  Rainbow Bass (Guapote)

As far as fishing on Lake Arenal goes, the most sought after is the rainbow bass, locally called the guapote.

A local rainbow bass

While actually in the cichlid family, rainbow bass fight a lot like a bass species. Once hooked, they will fight hard, try to retreat into dead logs and weeds, and may jump.

On Lake Arenal it is common for anglers to catch rainbow bass in the one to five pound range (0.5-2.5 kg), but they can get bigger. The world record was caught in neighboring Nicaragua. It was 15 pounds!

Machaca

Another fun species to catch is called the machaca. This fish is related to the piranha and its teeth definitely compare! Funny enough, machaca are mainly vegetarians, but they will still strike lures and baits.

Watch out for those teeth!

Hooked machaca fight like crazy, often jumping out of the water multiple times while pulling hard on the line. Machaca can get up to around five or six pounds.

An important note about these fish is that they will die very easily if handled too much and kept out of the water too long. It’s best to release them quickly as they aren’t very good to eat.

Tilapia

While not native to Costa Rica, tilapia have become a popular fish to farm and eat throughout the country. Lake Arenal has a healthy population of tilapia. This is likely because of a large farming site near Tronadora.

Our fishing guide told us that a crocodile once broke the netting at the farm, releasing thousands of the fish. Some tilapia caught in the lake can be over five pounds.

Mojarra

Mojarra fish also can be caught in Lake Arenal. They are similar to a panfish or perch. While they don’t get very big, they can still put up a good fight.

Our Experience Fishing on Lake Arenal

At 7:00 a.m. with a steady light rain coming down, we parked near the boat launch in Nuevo Arenal.

At the bottom of the steep ramp was our guide, Alberto. He was tending to his small bass boat and waved us closer. After a nice greeting, we bundled in our raincoats and pushed off.

Loading onto the boatOur Guide

Alberto, we could tell, was a serious fisherman. His tackle and rods were well organized, he wore a local tournament shirt, ballcap, sun scarf, and sunglasses. The rain, which is common on the lake, did not faze him at all.  

Alberto, we learned, is a Nuevo Arenal native. He lived in the old village (now at the bottom of the lake) until his family was relocated to higher ground. Throughout the day, he told us all kinds of cool stories about the area.

Alberto, our guideGetting Our Bearings

As we picked up speed across the lake, Alberto told us that the fish are most active along the shallow edges early in the morning.

Soon we slowed and Alberto used his trolling motor to get us close to a grassy shoreline. We could tell there was a lot of activity. Small bait fish were jumping everywhere and larger splashes could be heard all around. Luckily the rain had now stopped.

First Casts

Alberto handed Sam (age 7 at the time) and I spinning rods and told us to try to cast the spinner baits as close to the shore as possible.

Sam had never really fished before, so Alberto calmly gave him the basics of when to release the line and how to swing the rod. His patience was amazing, and Sam was quickly getting the hang of it.

Meanwhile, I cast my line, splashing the lure to the edge of the bank. After a few reels, I felt an immediate hit but failed to set the hook. Alberto told us that it was definitely a guapote (rainbow bass). They like to hunt right along the shore, he said. 

Sam and I quickly cast again and again, each getting a few hits but no hookups. This was new to Sam, but I had no excuse. I was just plain rusty.

Trolling  

After about 45 minutes of casting spinnerbaits without a catch, the activity in the water was cooling down. We hadn’t seen splashes in quite a while.

Alberto told us that as the sun rises, the fish often go deeper. He then set us up for some trolling, using Rapala-style minnows. We trolled at a medium speed around a small island several times.

Trolling

Suddenly Sam’s rod bent over and Alberto jumped into action. He helped Sam get in a good position and started reeling at a steady pace. Sam was super excited as the rod tip was jerked and swayed by the fighting fish. 

After a few minutes, Alberto netted the machaca, which was about three pounds (1.3 kg). Sam’s first real catch!

Sam’s first catch, a machacaSwitching It Up

After trolling around longer without more bites, Alberto decided to switch it up. We went back to casting but this time with some top water lures.

On Sam’s first cast, a giant fish splashed after his jitterbug but just missed. Alberto got a good look at it and told us it was a big rainbow bass. We kept fishing in that spot for a while but the fish never returned.

Alberto then sped us over to a different part of the lake where an old line of trees was partially submerged. It was an old farm fence made from living stumps. We cast our lines over and over but to no avail.

Back to trolling, Sam caught the second fish of the day. It was a small rainbow bass.

A Final Catch

With time running out and lunchtime approaching, it wasn’t looking good for me. We trolled around another island and hooked up to some occasional weeds but no fish.

Finally, there was a small thud on my rod. I reeled quickly and pulled up a little mojarra, about the size of my hand. While small, at least I avoided being skunked for the day!

My only catch Conclusion

Our time on Lake Arenal was memorable and fun. Alberto put us in front of a lot of fish, but our novice and rusty fishing skills kept our fish count low. Nonetheless we had a blast and would love to go back out for another try. This time, for the big ones!

Booking a Fishing Trip on Lake Arenal

Fishing trips on the lake must be scheduled in advance, since boats are not just docked and waiting.

Starting Location

Most charters depart from the municipal boat ramp in Nuevo Arenal. It is important to note that this location is about one hour from La Fortuna, where most tourists are staying.

If you plan on fishing, it is probably best to stay in Nuevo Arenal for a couple of days so that you are closer. Boats can meet you close to the dam (closer to La Fortuna), but they charge a lot more.

Costs (from Nuevo Arenal)

Half-day Fishing (5 hours) – $275

Full-day Fishing (8 hours) – $400

*Cost for up to two people. Extra person is an additional charge. Three to four people max depending on weight/size.

What’s Included?

All fishing equipment and tackle, fishing guide, coffee, drinks, beer, and snacks. Lunch can be arranged for full day trips.

How to Book

If you are interested in going out with the same guide we used, we would be happy to help you book that experience. Just send us an email at bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com with the date you would prefer and how many people. We will then talk to Alberto and get back to you with all the details. Booking through us costs the same and we will make the process easy.

Have a question about fishing on Lake Arenal or want to share your experience? Leave us a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan? Check out these posts:

Rental Car Discount – If you are staying in Nuevo Arenal or driving to the launch site, you will definitely want a car. Use our discount to save and get free extras.

Central Pacific Coast, Costa Rica: Regional Snapshot – If you are interested in ocean fishing, the central Pacific has some great opportunities. Larger marinas with charters can be found in Jaco and Quepos. 

Guanacaste, Costa Rica: Regional Snapshot – The country’s northwestern beaches are also great for fishing. Towns like Flamingo, Potrero, Coco, and Tamarindo have some good options.

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Finca El Paraiso: A Sustainable Farm Tour in Monteverde

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

If you’re traveling with kids or just want a local experience, Finca El Paraiso is a great activity for your time in Monteverde. Our family recently did their farm and cheese tour, and the Vargas family welcomed us with open arms. In this post, we’ll tell you about their sustainable dairy farm and what to expect on a visit.

Location

Finca El Paraiso (Paradise Farm) is located near the town of Santa Elena in a region called Monteverde. This area is higher altitude and known for having lush cloud forest.

For more information about Monteverde, read our full destination guide, Monteverde: A Forest in the Clouds.

The TourIntroduction

Our family pulled up the dirt driveway and parked outside a simple metal structure. All around us were grass-covered hills and forest.

View of the mountains all the way to the ocean at Finca El Paraiso

Carolina, one of the family members, greeted us right away. With a big smile, she told us she would be our guide for the day.

Finca El Paraiso is a family farm. Carolina is the daughter of the owners, Orlando and Yolanda, who we would meet later on. Together, along with her brother, Orlando junior, they work the farm and offer tours.

Background

Finca El Paraiso has been around for three generations. Carolina’s grandfather came to Monteverde in the 1950s for farming and coffee. He bought a large parcel of land (around 800 hectares/1,977 acres). The family split it up among the individual members.

The land that the farm is on today consists of 10 hectares (25 acres). About half of that is farmland, while the other half is primary forest, meaning it has never been cut down.

The family started dairy farming about 25 years ago. They used to use traditional farming methods but stopped using chemicals about six years ago.

In Costa Rica, it is very common for farmers to use pesticides and chemical-based fertilizers to control insects, weeds, and disease, and to make plants grow faster. Wanting a more natural, sustainable approach, the family stopped using sprays and changed their farming methods.

Regenerative Farming

Carolina led us down a path through the forest to the fields.

Walking the trail to see the farm fields

Looking through the trees, she explained that when they switched to organic, they started using regenerative farming.

Under this method, the cows graze in a smaller fenced area of the field for one day, then are moved to a new area the next day. This is a more sustainable approach as the cows eat all the grass and plants in that one section rather than favoring certain types that they prefer. In this way, the family doesn’t need to use herbicides to then kill the “weeds” that would normally be left behind by the cows.

Cows are kept in sections of land using wire like this

Fertilization of the fields happens naturally. After the cows are moved to a new field, other animals, like armadillos and coati, come and move the dirt and droppings around.

In 45 days once the field has regenerated and plants and grass have returned, the cows will come back to same section and the process repeats.

View of the surrounding farm fields

Using this sustainable approach, the farm produces less milk overall. This is because there is less grass and plants to eat than if they used chemicals, so they can’t have as many cows.

However, the quality of milk is much better because of the cows’ varied diet. And it benefits the people and the environment by using less chemicals.

Regenerative farming has its challenges, but Carolina explained that the family thinks it is the best option.

Milking a Cow

After learning about the farm, it was time for the fun part: meeting the animals.

Carolina first brought us into the milking barn.

At Finca El Paraiso, they milk with machines. We learned that it takes about three to five minutes per cow, and they set the cows up with some hay while they’re waiting. They had nine milking cows when we were there. Another five were pregnant.

Those nine cows produce about 100 liters (26 gallons) of milk per day!

They sell their milk to the Monteverde Cheese Factory. Every two days they come in a truck to get it.

After hearing about the process, we had the chance to milk a cow ourselves. Orlando senior showed us how to do it by hand. The kids weren’t interested, but Matt tried it. Following Orlando’s technique, he was able to squeeze a good amount into a coffee mug.

Matt milking a cow

Orlando invited us all to try the fresh milk and even put some cocoa and sugar in it to make chocolate milk for the kids. It was creamy and delicious.

Baby Cows and Pigs

In the small barn next door, we met some of the babies at the farm.

There was Claudia the piglet, some charming calves named Roseta, Reina, Princesa, and Luna, and a few goats.

Our boys, Sam and Evan (ages 7 and 4 at the time), got to feed them. We watched as the animals happily slurped down milk from a bottle and chomped some fresh sunflower greens.

Our son feeding a baby cowMaking Cheese

After feeding the animals, we met Yolanda back at the main building to make homemade cheese.

Costa Rica has several types of fresh cheese made from cow’s milk. Yolanda stood on one side of the stainless steel counter and explained to us that we would be making a soft, mild cheese, popular in the Guanacaste region of Costa Rica.

Cheesemaking was a lot easier than we had expected.

We first added rennet to the farm-fresh milk and let it sit for 20 minutes. After, we stirred and the mixture separated into the solid curds and liquid whey.

Yolanda then scooped out the curds and put it in a cheesecloth to strain out the last bit of whey. We just had to give it some time and then the cheese would be ready.

Yolanda holding the finished product

From there, we started making tortillas. Yolanda prepared the dough then gave us each a piece to form into a ball and roll out. She and Carolina helped our youngest son pat it down until it was flat and round.

Making tortillas 

Yolanda then cooked them for a few minutes on the stove until they puffed up and browned slightly.

Cooking the tortillasTaste Testing

With the delicious smell of fresh tortillas wafting in the air, we couldn’t wait to try our creations.

We sat at the rustic wooden picnic table, and Yolanda and Carolina brought us each some cheese along with the tortillas that we had made. We enjoyed them alongside coffee for the adults and sugar cane juice for the kids.

The warm tortillas were delicious with the mildly tangy fresh cheese. It was the perfect way to end the afternoon.

Enjoying the homemade cheese and tortillaPlanning Your Visit to Finca El ParaisoCost

Farm and Cheese Tour: $38 per person adults, $28 per person children ages 7-17.

Duration

About 2 hours

Other Tours

Finca El Paraiso has other cooking tours as well. You can find more information on their Trip Advisor page.

How to Book

Tours can be booked directly through Finca El Paraiso. You can contact them by email at fincaparaisoinfo(at)gmail(dot)com or by WhatsApp at +506 8735-4038.

Conclusion

If you’re looking to visit an authentic family farm during your trip to Costa Rica, we highly recommend Finca El Paraiso in Monteverde. Our family, especially the kids, loved seeing the farm, getting to interact with the animals, and making some farm-fresh foods.

Have a question about the farm tour at Finca El Paraiso? Ask us below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

Manuel Antonio Bee Farm: This is another type of farm tour but also a very authentic experience.

A Night Walk in Monteverde: Sleeping Toucans, Sloths & Snakes – Read about our experience on a night tour in Monteverde.

Arenal Ecoglide: Family-Friendly Zip Lining – If you’re looking to zip line with the kids, Ecoglide is a great option.

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La Fortuna Waterfall: A Tropical Oasis

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

La Fortuna Waterfall is an icon in the Arenal Volcano area. This grand waterfall plunges 230 feet (70 meters) into a deep green pool. The surrounding jungle is thick and lush, adding drama to the scene. With this description, it should be no surprise that La Fortuna Waterfall is one of the most popular cascades in Costa Rica. In this post, we’ll tell you about access to this gorgeous waterfall and give some tips for visiting.

Location

La Fortuna Waterfall, also known as Catarata La Fortuna, is located just outside downtown La Fortuna. The waterfall is easy to get to, at only about 10 minutes from the center of town.

The waterfall gets its name from the Fortuna River. The river and waterfall are protected as part of a 210 acre (85 hectare) biological reserve. The property also forms part of the vast Arenal Volcano National Park. Note that there is no volcano view from the property.

Founding Organization

Like most waterfalls in Costa Rica, La Fortuna Waterfall is on private property.

In the case of La Fortuna Waterfall, the property is managed by a non-profit organization called the Integral Development Association of La Fortuna.

Since 1969, this organization has aimed to sustainably manage the waterfall and surrounding land. With the funds raised from visitors, the group works to ensure the well-being and sustainable growth of the area via projects related to infrastructure, environment, education, and community enrichment.

Facility

When we first visited La Fortuna Waterfall back in 2014, the facility was very simple. The steps to access the waterfall were rustic and uneven, making access a little challenging.

Over time, the property has been improved. Today, getting to the waterfall is possible for most people, and the facility is modern with many conveniences.

This sturdy bridge marks the entrance to the trailArriving at La Fortuna Waterfall

After parking in the large lot, you can buy entrance tickets at the Visitors Center and get a bracelet. This area also has a couple of big bathrooms.

Reception area at the waterfallStairs to the Waterfall

From the Visitors Center, you’ll follow the path to the stairs leading down to the falls. Get ready for some cardio, as there are 530 steps in total.

The concrete stairs are well-maintained, though, and there’s a sturdy handrail to help. It takes most people about 10 minutes to get down to the waterfall.

The well-maintained stairs

Along the way, you’ll get some nice jungle views and catch glimpses of the waterfall through the trees.

Getting back up is much harder because of the incline. The waterfall is set low in the valley so it is a steep hike back to the top. If you need a rest on the way, there are some benches in between sets of stairs.

Looking down at the trail to the waterfallThe Waterfall

Once at the bottom, you’ll be rewarded with a gorgeous view of La Fortuna Waterfall right in front of you.

The beautiful La Fortuna Waterfall

If you go to the right of the first viewing area, you’ll reach a raised platform. This is a great place to take some pictures.

Swimming

As long as the water isn’t too strong, you can swim in the waterfall pool. Keep in mind that you have to climb over some big rocks to get to the edge of the water.

On our last visit in early rainy season (July), swimming was closed for the day for safety reasons. There had been a big rainstorm the night before, creating a powerful current.

The swimming area below the waterfall. Closed during our latest visit because of strong currents.The River

You also can swim in the calmer river to the left. This is a great spot with kids as the water is gentle.

The river was crowded on our last visit since the waterfall pool was closed, but people were still managing to find some space to enjoy the crisp, clear water.

The river area next to the waterfall

Tip: If you want to avoid the crowds, arrive early. Mid-morning to early afternoon is the busiest time of day at La Fortuna Waterfall.

At the base of the waterfall and river are some lifeguards/employees to make sure everyone stays safe.

Orchid Garden

At the top of the stairs, there’s another short trail with some orchid plants. What’s blooming depends on the time of year, but it’s worth checking out for five minutes or so.

Restaurant

A restaurant called Rio Lounge is also located right on the waterfall property behind the Visitors Center.

This big, open-air restaurant is open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. It has a large menu with everything from Costa Rican food to sandwiches and burgers. You also can just to grab a drink or snack.

Our family had lunch here and the food was good.

Arroz con camarones (rice with shrimp) at Rio Lounge RestaurantAccessibility

One of the best things about La Fortuna Waterfall is that you can enjoy it without having to make the trek down.

At the top, there’s a viewing platform where you can get a nice view of the waterfall in the distance. This is great for anyone who is handicapped or has limited mobility.

View of the waterfall from the top viewpointPlanning Your Visit to La Fortuna WaterfallCost

Entrance to the waterfall is a bit pricey, but still worth it in our opinion.

Foreigners: $18 per person adults. Children ages 8 and under are free.

Nationals and Legal Residents: $9 per person adults. Children ages 8 and under are free.

It’s easy enough to just purchase tickets when you arrive but you also can buy them in advance through the waterfall’s website. This is probably only necessary during very busy times of year like Christmas, New Years, and Easter Week (Semana Santa).

Hours

7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Last entrance: 4:00 p.m.

Visiting with Kids

If you have babies or toddlers, getting them down to the waterfall is easiest with a baby carrier.

When we visited with our four-year old, he was too big for a carrier and we had to carry him in our arms part of the way back up. It’s a big hike for a little kid.

If you’re planning to swim, bring water shoes for the kids so that they don’t slip on the rocks or hurt their feet.

What to Bring/Wear

Good gripping shoes are best as the stairs can be slippery. We saw people in hiking boots and sport sandals like Keens. Many others were just in flip-flops and they were fine too.

As we mentioned, water shoes are good for swimming, especially for the kids.

Towel

Change of clothes – there are changing rooms near the restaurant

Water

Storage

If you want to store anything, there are lockers for rent at the top of the waterfall. The cost is $2.

Bathrooms

It’s important to note that all the bathrooms are at the top only. There are none at the bottom where the waterfall is.

Conclusion

La Fortuna Waterfall is one of the top attractions in the Arenal area and definitely worth fitting in if you can. It only takes a couple of hours to enjoy the falls, take a dip, and get some amazing photos that will take you back.

Have a question about visiting La Fortuna Waterfall or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below.Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

La Fortuna: What to Expect from Costa Rica’s Most Popular Destination – Our full destination guide has all the details about visiting the Arenal area.

The Enchanting Rio Celeste – The Rio Celeste Waterfall is another stunning cascade with bright blue water.

Bogarin Trail – If you’re looking to see sloths on your visit, the Bogarin Trail is a great option.

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Arenal Ecoglide: Family-Friendly Zip Lining

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

La Fortuna and the surrounding Arenal Volcano area is one of the best places in Costa Rica for zip lining. Here, you’ll find many tour operators offering exhilarating experiences that will have you soaring through the rainforest canopy. But what if you’re looking for something more mellow? Arenal Ecoglide is the perfect fit. It’s also great with younger kids. In this post, we’ll tell you about our family’s experience zip lining at Arenal Ecoglide.

Background

Arenal Ecoglide is located just outside downtown La Fortuna in Costa Rica’s Northern Highlands. Ecoglide has a large property of 136 acres (55 hectares) of jungle. It sits at the foothills of Arenal Volcano.

For more about the volcano and surrounding area, check out our post, La Fortuna: What to Expect from Costa Rica’s Most Popular Destination.

The amazing Arenal VolcanoArriving at Arenal Ecoglide

After arriving at the office, we checked in with the reception and were given a wristband and locker key. Our wristband was for the regular zip line canopy tour. Ecoglide also has a variation on the tour that includes a Tarzan swing. Jenn and Sam (age 7 at the time) would be doing the regular tour. Matt would be staying back with Evan (age 4) who didn’t want to try zip lining yet.

With our belongings safely stored away, we got geared up. Ecoglide employees quickly fitted us with harnesses, helmets, and gloves, and we were soon ready to start our adventure.

Getting our glovesPractice Zip Line

The guides led the group, about 25 people in total, up the path to the practice zip line. This was a short line only about 20 feet (6 meters) off the ground so was a great introduction for our son, Sam, who had never done zip lining before.

Getting ready to go to the practice zip line

After a short talk about the basics, we got started.

Sam was very nervous to try zip lining. It didn’t help that another boy ahead of us was so scared he was crying. Mustering up some courage, Sam walked up to the practice line and the guide clipped him in and got him in position.

Sam at Zip Line School

We were told that the older kids and adults would have to hold onto one of the lines with our gloved hands slightly behind us. While the younger kids, like Sam, could just hold onto the top of the harness at chest level and not touch the line at all. This made it a lot easier for them. All they needed to do was lean back and the guide would send them on their way.

Before I knew it, Sam took off and safely landed at the bottom, finally smiling. Another guide at the bottom had him jump up and unclipped him.

The rest of us took a turn then loaded into the back of a couple of pickup trucks.

The Zip-line Experience

The trucks climbed up the steep hill behind the property, through the thick rainforest. We got to enjoy some nice views along the way and even saw some wildlife (a toucan and another bird called a Chachalaca).

A toucan we saw

In about 10 minutes, we reached the short path to the first zip line.

This line was 80 meters (263 feet) long and much higher off the ground than the practice line. Still, from the platform, you could easily see the end, making it a good first official zip line.

First Zip Line Nerves

Sam and I were the very last in the group. This worked against us, as the longer we waited, the more nervous he became. After about 10 minutes of waiting, it was our turn to go. Sam was now telling me that he wasn’t going to do it because he was scared of heights. I was trying to be encouraging, as I knew he really wanted to try it before and had done other activities high up without a problem.

Rafael, one of the guides, talked to him too. Even with his big smile and reassuring words, nothing was working. Eventually, Sam agreed to go tandem with one of the guides, Jefferson. This meant that he would ride along him.

The two made it across then Sam decided that he didn’t want to do it anymore. Ecoglide does have an emergency exit, but it isn’t until the third line. The problem was we were in between lines. If Sam didn’t continue to the second and third lines, he would need to go backwards on the first one, with the guide propelling the two of them with his arms.

After some negotiation, Sam agreed to do the next two lines with the guide then head back to the office to meet the rest of our family. The guides assured me that everything would be fine for me to continue the tour.

A few minutes later, after I had done some more lines by myself, Jefferson found me and reported that Sam was back at the reception enjoying an iced tea with his dad and brother. All was well.

Continuing on the Tour

The 10 other cables I got to do were super fun. It was very strange doing the tour by myself, but I did get to know some other families. A nice family from South America waited in line in front of me. Their kids were about five and eight and very brave. The other boy who had been crying before was all smiles now after getting a few zips under his belt.

The zip lines were from 100-430 meters (328-1,411 feet) long. This was definitely long enough to feel like you were getting a good ride and speed up.

The map showing the zip-line course

The second to last line was my favorite. It was long (1640 ft/500 m), fast, and had an amazing view of Arenal Volcano. The volcano was just to the left, fairly far away, but because it’s so big, still felt close.

In addition to the zip lines, there was a hanging bridge to cross. This connected to one of the platforms. A photographer from Ecoglide was waiting on the far end to snap a photo while we crossed, two by two. She followed along during the entire tour and got some great pictures and videos.

 Tarzan Swing

Midway through the tour, there’s an optional Tarzan swing. For this, they strap you into special equipment and you basically let yourself fall from a platform to swing through the forest. You swing back and forth a few times, then the guides at the bottom help you unclip.

I opted not to do this as I had been having some back problems, but others seemed thrilled with the experience.

Someone doing the Tarzan swingTour LogisticsSafety

Ecoglide uses a double cable system: one cable for sliding and the other to provide additional security.

Although the platforms are high up, you’re clipped in the whole time. When you approach the first platform, there’s a guide who clips you in and ensures all your gear is in order before sending you off. When you reach the other end, another guide catches you and immediately clips you onto a cable on the platform. This makes sure there’s no chance of falling off.

Braking

If you get going too fast, you can slow down using your gloved hand. Kids won’t have to do this because they don’t weigh much. All the younger kids I saw just had to hold onto to the top of the harness at chest level so they wouldn’t have to worry about touching the cable.

Sam demonstrating how young kids hold onto the harness

The cables have an automatic braking system. When you get near the end of the lines, your equipment will hit a brake that slows you down before coming into the platform. During the instructions, the guides explained that sometimes they may ask you to slow down if you’re coming in too fast. I didn’t have to brake at all, but heavier people may need to.

Kids

Children ages two and up can do the Ecoglide tour.

Younger kids will go tandem with a guide (not a parent for safety reasons). The guides are the ones who decide if a child needs to go tandem. I saw kids as young as five years old going on their own.

You need to be at least five years old for the Tarzan swing.

If your kids are nervous, keep in mind that this is really common. The guides were reassuring us of this the whole time Sam was scared. It’s a great tour to try out zip lining for the first time. All the guides were wonderful with the kids. And there is the emergency exit after the third zip line so that you can get off the course if needed.

Accessibility

The tour is fully handicapped accessible and wheelchair friendly. For wheelchair users, a staff member will carry your wheelchair in between lines.

There is minimal walking between platforms.

The platforms are built around treesBooking InformationCost

$84 per person with Tarzan swing. $56 per person without Tarzan Swing. No discount for kids.

Times

8:00 a.m., 10:00 a.m., 1:00 p.m., 3:00 p.m.

Duration

About 2 hours

What’s Included

Round-trip transportation from most hotels, bilingual guides, all necessary equipment, and drinks at the end.

You can purchase professional photos at the end for around $20 per person. They got some great ones of us.

Maximum Weight

300 lbs (136 kg)

What to Bring/Wear

Closed toe shoes

Lightweight long pants to avoid mosquito bites.

Apply sunscreen in advance as some parts of the tour are sunny.

No cameras (except GoPros) or phones are allowed. They have helmets where you can attach a GoPro.

Reserving Your Tour

If you’d like to book the Ecoglide tour, we can help for no additional cost. Booking through us costs the same and helps support our website.

If you are interested, email us at bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com with your preferred date and time, number of people in your party, and your pickup location if transportation is needed. We’ll email you back and make the process smooth and stress free.

Sam and me. He says he’s ready to try again soon!Conclusion

The Arenal Ecoglide tour is a great zip line tour for first timers, kids, and anyone who is nervous. The guides are fun and encouraging, and the lines are thrilling but not too crazy. We highly recommend it if you’re in La Fortuna/Arenal.

Have a question about the Arenal Ecoglide tour? Leave us a comment below.Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Things to Do in La Fortuna with Young Children: If you’re traveling with younger kids, this post has more activity ideas, including easy nature walks, river floats to see wildlife, and coffee/chocolate tours.

Mirador El Silencio Trail: If you’d like to walk the old lava flows and see the volcano close up, Mirador El Silencio is one of our favorite spots.

Hanging Bridges in Costa Rica: Where to Go for the Best Experience – La Fortuna is one of the best places in Costa Rica for hanging bridges. Get the options with this post.

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San Ramon: Close to Culture

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Set in the mountains west of San Jose is the charming town of San Ramon. Many tourists drive right through this small city on their way to and from the famous destination of La Fortuna (Arenal). In this post, we’ll share why San Ramon is a great place to stop for a visit and absorb some of Costa Rica’s warm, friendly culture.   

Location and Landscape

San Ramon is located on the northwestern side of Costa Rica’s Central Valley. Costa Rica’s largest airport, SJO International, is less than one hour away. 

While in a rural mountain setting, San Ramon has a concentrated downtown with a small grid of city streets. Like most authentic Costa Rican towns, there is a large church and public park in the center. 

Downtown San Ramon

Outside San Ramon, the hills are filled with forests and farm fields. Because of its location along Costa Rica’s Pacific slope, you can see all the way to the Gulf of Nicoya from some spots around town. 

Climate

San Ramon enjoys moderate temperatures because of its higher altitude. The town sits at about 1,050 meters (3,460 feet) above sea level. 

Temperatures are generally warm during the day and cooler at night. Daytime temperatures can be in the mid-70s to low-80s °F (23-28 °C), cooling down into the mid-60s °F at night (18 °C). 

View from San Ramon with the Gulf of Nicoya (Pacific Ocean) in the distance.

As with much of Costa Rica, there is a dry season between December and late April. During these months, Sam Ramon receives significantly less rain, and during some months, almost none. May through August has more moderate and occasional rain. And September through November can be quite rainy but it may not rain every day. 

Important SitesSan Ramon’s Central Park 

At the heart of San Ramon is its central park. This important green space has a large, modern playground, park benches, gazebo, mature shade trees, and colorful flower gardens.

Here, you will find neighbors catching up with one another, children playing, and teenagers hanging out. We spent several hours here with our kids and found the locals to be really nice and welcoming.  

The central parkSan Ramon Nonato Church

Adjacent to the central park is the historic Nonato Church. This is home to the San Ramon Nonato Parish (Parroquia San Ramón Nonato).

The beautiful church opened in 1954. This was a momentous occasion, as townspeople worked voluntarily for more than 20 years to replace the previous church, which had been destroyed by an earthquake in 1924. 

The new structure has a metal frame, twin bell towers, and an altar that was imported from Italy. 

San Ramon Nonato ChurchMuseo de San Ramon

Also near the park is the San Ramon Museum (Museo de San Ramon). This small museum includes historical displays about the settlement of San Ramon and its history. 

There are also exhibits about the local flora and fauna. Some include fossils and replicas of extinct animals like giant ground sloths or ancient sea creatures from the time of the dinosaurs. 

The museum is open from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday (closed Sunday & Monday). Admission is free. They also organize periodic events for children and adults in the community. 

San Ramon MuseumNearby Activities Adrian’s Coffee Tour

Coffee is an important crop in Costa Rica and coffee farming has been going on for generations in San Ramon. At Adrian’s Coffee Tour, you can learn how coffee is grown on a small scale, harvested, dried, roasted, and get to taste some delicious samples. 

To learn more about our experience visiting this authentic coffee farm and to plan your own visit, read our post, Adrian’s Coffee Tour Near San Ramon. 

Coffee beans being dried at Adrian’s CoffeeMadre Verde Nature Reserve

For a leisurely hike or picnic, there is Madre Verde Nature Reserve in the neighboring town of Palmares. This conservation area has easy to moderate hiking trails that loop up and down a large hill. There are several viewpoints, a pollinator garden, and plenty of forest to explore. 

Read about how to visit and what wildlife we encountered with our post, Madre Verde Nature Reserve in Palmares.   

Hiking trail at Madre VerdeCloud Forest Hikes

In the mountains north of San Ramon, the landscape quickly turns into cloud forest. With misty winds converging along the Continental Divide, the habitat changes to trees covered with moss, giant ferns, and many interesting species hidden within it all. 

A couple of cloud forest hikes near San Ramon worth mentioning are El Silencio de Los Angeles Cloud Forest Reserve, located on the Hotel Villa Blanca property and Nectandra Cloud Forest Garden. Both offer walks with naturalist guides where you can learn more about this unique ecosystem. 

If you’d like to visit these reserves, it is best to contact the properties in advance to check availability and current road conditions. Some of the local side roads can be rough. 

Sarchi 

Just 30 minutes east of San Ramon is the town of Sarchi.

Sarchi has been made famous for its many woodworkers. In the past, these tradespeople built oxcarts to transport coffee and other goods from farms to ports along each coast. Each oxcart was painted with bright geometric patterns. Today, Sarchi is a popular place to buy handmade furniture. 

A visit to Sarchi can be fun and cultural. There are a couple of old oxcart museums/demonstrations and a beautifully painted giant oxcart in the center of town. Read our post, the Painted Oxcarts of Sarchi, for more information. 

This huge oxcart sits in Sarchi’s central parkSan Ramon Restaurants Green Garden 

When in San Ramon, a stop at Green Garden is a must. Chef and owner Chris is a local who spent many years in New York City learning recipes and techniques from an Italian chef. He returned to his hometown and has brought those flavors with him.

Green Garden has a large menu of pizzas, calzones, handmade pastas, paninis, burgers, quesadillas, and salads. There is a kids and vegetarian section of the menu as well.  

Carbonara pasta at the Green Garden RestaurantBeer Garden at Manada Coyote Brewery

This local brewery outside town serves up fresh artisanal beer and tasty BBQ. The Beer Garden offers bocas like grilled shrimp kabobs, a veggie platter, sausages, tacos, and nachos. They also have specialty burgers and smoked meats like brisket and ribs. 

The brewery and restaurant is high on our list but was closed for a holiday on our last visit. We are already planning a way to stop here during future travels. 

Octubre 29 Gastrobar

Located right in the downtown, Octubre 29 Gastrobar offers fresh pastas, focaccias, and pizzas. There is also a special’s menu with more refined dishes.

While the food is good, what makes a visit to Octubre 29 special is the eclectic décor. They have a mix of antique furniture, funky lights, colorful art work, and playful decorations. The restaurant is named for the date that Costa Rica learned about its independence from Spain. 

Inside Octubre 29 GastrobarAccommodations in San Ramon 

Because San Ramon is a local town without a lot of tourism, there are not that many hotels. Below are a few options. Some vacation rental websites like Airbnb have listings as well. 

Hostel Bouganvilia Bed & Breakfast

The helpful owners of this affordable dormitory-style bed and breakfast are what make the experience. Located just five minutes from the center of town, Hostel Bouganvilia has simple rooms with either bunk beds or two twin beds. A typical breakfast is included. Around $50/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.  

Hostel BouganviliaBatsu EcoLodge & Coffee Farm

This farm stay in the mountains outside San Ramon offers rustic wood cabins in a beautiful setting. The onsite restaurant serves traditional Costa Rican-style meals. The hosts make for an extremely authentic experience. $100-$150/night. Check Rates and Availability Here. 

Bastu Eco Lodge and Coffee FarmVilla Blanca Hotel & Nature Reserve

Set in the cloud forest north of San Ramon, Villa Blanca is one of the only upscale options in the area. Each cabin is nicely decorated with local wood furniture and a fireplace. The views from the terraces and porches are outstanding. Onsite restaurant and spa are very nice. $180-500+/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.  

Hotel Villa BlancaConclusion 

San Ramon may not be a normal tourist destination; however, for an authentic experience it is well worth a visit. With its busy central park, many shops, good restaurants, and proximity to San Jose, it has also attracted a fair amount of expats. Next time you drive through San Ramon, we hope you’ll take the time to stop and get that much closer to the culture.   

Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you book a hotel using one of the links, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Read our Privacy Policy for more information.

Have a question about visiting San Ramon or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below. Looking for more authentic Costa Rican towns? Check out these posts: 

San Isidro de El General – Located in the southern central part of the country, this small city is the hub for dozens of smaller towns around it. 

Atenas: A Glimpse of Authentic Costa Rica – Not far from San Ramon, this popular expat town is thought to have one of the best climates in the world. 

Orosi: A Valley of Green – Located southwest of San Jose, this small valley has a lot of history, including one of the oldest churches in Costa Rica.  

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Madre Verde Nature Reserve in Palmares

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Costa Rica’s protected forests are the heart of its environmental splendor. But the country’s network of national parks don’t do it alone. Dozens of private reserves combine to safeguard an enormous amount of additional land. Many times, these reserves not only preserve, but also restore, the forests. One such place is the Madre Verde Nature Reserve in Palmares. In this post, we’ll share more about this inspiring reserve, including its hiking trails, gardens, and the wildlife we saw on a recent visit.  

Background and Location 

Madre Verde Nature Reserve (Reserva Natural Madre Verde) is a 31 hectare (76 acre) protected area in the town of Palmares. Palmares is a local town with a history of farming and furniture making. It is located approximately 45 minutes west of SJO International Airport. The closest city is San Ramon.

Madre Verde Nature Reserve protects land in the southeastern corner of a larger conservation area called the Montes del Aguacate Biological Corridor. This swath of connected forests stretches from Palmares, through San Ramon, and ends at the slope of the Monteverde cloud forest. 

The nature reserve is managed by the Madre Verde Foundation, which is a non-profit organization that also does environmental work in the community. 

A building where they do community outreach and educationHistory

Walking the trails at Madre Verde, you would probably not realize that just a short time ago, the land looked very different. 

Previously, it was a mixed area of forest and vast dairy pasture. Soon after becoming a nature reserve, pioneering tree species began to grow. These aggressive and fast-growing plants became the foundation for the thick secondary forest you can see today.

The Madre Verde Foundation has carefully monitored and nurtured the reserve’s regrowth for more than 20 years.

Thick forest at Madre VerdeHiking Trails 

At Madre Verde, you’ll find four hiking trails. These begin from the welcome office at the base of a big hill. After paying the entrance fee, you can hike up and around the mountain, making a nice loop. 

Trail MapTrail Conditions

The trails at Madre Verde are dirt and gravel. The foundation has done work to create steps and railings in steeper areas. 

Overall, the trails are easy to moderate in difficulty. We did them with our two young boys (ages 4 & 7 at the time). The trails are well maintained overall, but there are some rocks and roots along the way.  

Bamboo stairs along one of the trails

We spent a few hours here. During that time, we were able to cover most of the reserve’s trails and have time for a short picnic. 

Pollinator Garden Trail (Sendero Jardin de Polinizadores)

Just past the entrance gate is the Pollinator Garden Trail. From the steep access road, it starts on the right. This short trail is only 135 meters long (443 feet). It arcs back to the access road, passing some bamboo and flowering shrubs. 

At the end of this trail, you can visit a pollinator garden. This area has been planted to attract bees, butterflies, and other insects. They even have a small bee house made of old sticks and wood. 

Entrance to the Pollinator Garden

The pollinator garden has a nice paved pathway that is handicap accessible. There are a couple of resting benches as well. We saw a lot of cool insects here. 

Interesting beetle we sawCoyote Stone Trail (Sendero la Piedra del Coyote)

After climbing the access road for another five or 10 minutes, you will arrive at an open area with some buildings. This is where many local families come to picnic on weekends and holidays (more below).  

From the picnic area continuing to the right, you will see the entrance to the Stone of the Coyote Trail. This trail is around 915 meters (0.57 miles) and zigzags up the mountainside to a higher point on the property. 

Thick, shrubby trees along the Coyote TrailVolcano Lookout

About halfway up the Coyote Stone Trail is a lookout with resting benches. Here, on a clear day you can see four volcanoes in Costa Rica’s Central Volcanic Range. These include Poas Volcano, Barva Volcano, Irazu Volcano, and Turrialba Volcano.

Unfortunately, it was cloudy the day we visited so the views weren’t great. 

View towards the town of Palmares with the four volcanoes in the distanceBromeliad Trail (Sendero Las Bromelias)

At the end of the Coyote Stone Trail, you will arrive at an intersection. To the left is the Bromeliad Trail. This 550-meter (0.34 mile) trail heads back down the hill, through the forest, and to the picnic area. 

We didn’t take this trail because we continued up the mountain on the Tolomuco Trail. We did, however, see a cool hive of stingless bees at the intersection. 

A stingless bee nestTolomuco Trail 

At the end of the Coyote Stone Trail, you also can continue onto the Tolomuco Trail. This 900-meter (0.56 mile) trail goes uphill to the top of the property before meandering back down to the picnic area. 

Mature trees along the Tolomuco Trail

The Tolomuco Trail is named after a sleek weasel-like animal (called tayra in English). The tayra is found in Costa Rica and within the reserve. These quick, elusive mammals have black fur and are sometimes seen streaking across trails and fields. 

On the descent down this trail, there is also a notable viewpoint. 

Life Hill Lookout (Mirador Loma Vida)

From the Life Hill Lookout, you will have a nice view of Palmares with Cerro Espíritu Santo (Hill of the Holy Spirit) in the background. 

Cerro Espíritu Santo is one of the tallest points in the area and has an interesting history. Legends say that the volcanically formed hill would erupt someday and devastate the coffee fields and farms.   

To put the locals’ minds at ease, in 1916 a nearby parish began to build a religious monument at the top. The monument was never finished but the hill still became a well-known religious site and is visited often. 

Mirador Loma VidaWildlife 

As the forest has regrown at the Madre Verde Reserve, the wildlife has returned as well. The foundation does wildlife monitoring to identify bird, mammal, and insect species. 

Some of the interesting wildlife they have seen include coyotes, possums, racoons, monkeys, tayras, and coatis (a racoon-like animal).  

During our visit, we didn’t see any mammals, but we did see and hear many birds. Some that we were able to identify include the Brown Jay, Montezuma Oropendola, Little Tinamou, Canada Warbler, and Long-tailed Manakin. 

The Long-tailed Manakin is a special bird with two wispy tail pieces. These small birds are mostly black with a little blue and red. They hop around on low branches and are somewhat hard to find. 

A beautiful Long-tailed Manakin 

We also spotted a non-venomous snake near the end of the Tolomuco Trail. Based on the quick glimpse we got, we identified it as a speckled racer. 

A speckled racer snake camouflaged behind some leavesPicnic Area

Where the three trails (Coyote, Bromeliad, and Tolomuco) start/end is the large green area. Here, there are some picnic tables, restrooms, and a small playground. They also have a building for environmental education events and classes. 

Another interesting building in the green space is the old dairy barn, which still has a stable intact. 

Planning Your VisitHours

Madre Verde Nature Reserve is open Wednesday through Monday (closed Tuesday) from 7:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. 

Cost

To enter the reserve, the foundation asks for a donation of 1,000 colones (about $2) per person. We recommend more if you can. They will put the money to good use with their important programs and maintenance.

Gift Shop

Inside the office is a small gift shop with shirts, hats, travel mugs, and more. We picked up some cool shirts for the kids that had some of the local wildlife. During our visit, they also had local honey for sale.

Parking 

Free parking is available and fairly secure because it is right next to the reserve’s office. 

What to Wear/Bring

We would recommend bringing a small day pack with all the food and water you will need for the day. 

For the hiking trails, it is best to have closed-toed, good-gripping sneakers or hiking boots. Shorts or lightweight hiking pants are fine.  

Temperatures in Palmares are generally warm during the day in the high 70s or 80s °F (21 to 29 °C), but it can cool down with cloud cover and rain. Bring a lightweight rain jacket in case the weather changes quickly. 

Conclusion 

The Madre Verde Nature Reserve is an inspiring example of how in just a short time, the forest can regrow and thrive. If you have the opportunity to visit, you will no doubt find something amazing along its trails. 

Have a question about visiting Madre Verde Nature Reserve or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these posts: 

Atenas: A Glimpse of Authentic Costa Rica – Not far from Palmares, this local town is known for its good weather and large expat community. 

Adrian’s Coffee Tour Near San Ramon – This local coffee farm offers a tour and coffee tasting. 

Car Rental Discount – If you are exploring sites like Madre Verde, it is best to have your own wheels. Check out our rental car discount to save money and get free extras. 

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10 Years in Costa Rica

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

This week we are celebrating 10 years of living in Costa Rica. Wow, how the time has flown! Back in 2013 when we first arrived, we thought we’d be able to spend maybe three to five years here. Now, Costa Rica feels like home and we don’t see ourselves going anywhere. In this post, we’ll fill you in on what has changed since our last update.

Another Move

In our 7 Year Update, we talked a lot about finding our ideal location, especially now that we had become a family of four. 

To recap, we had spent about five years in the Dominical area, then moved north to Playa Bejuco and after Esterillos Oeste in 2019/2020. The reason was that we wanted to be closer to San Jose and have other amenities nearby (in Jaco and Manuel Antonio). Schools were also a factor. 

The beautiful Playa Esterillos Oeste

We enjoyed the area a lot, aside from the bad water supply. However, shortly after Covid in 2020, our neighbor’s house was getting rented a lot to noisy groups from Airbnb. Both tourists and also locals from San Jose.

The beach towns of the Pacific coast are a weekend getaway for people from the city. And after everyone was stuck in their homes during Covid, they had a lot of catching up (i.e., partying) to do. 

We prefer a more peaceful place to live so soon decided we needed to move again and find a spot with more space. 

The Search for a House

After many years living in Costa Rica, first as house sitters then renters, we decided we should buy a house of our own. We started looking for homes with larger properties either north or south of Jaco.

It gets rural quickly outside the bustling beach town of Jaco so we thought we could have the best of both worlds if we were close yet in the countryside. 

Rural area near Jaco

We were seriously looking at one place but found out through a neighbor that there was a big party house nearby that often hosted bachelor parties late into the night. Her windows shook because the music was so loud. That was a deal-breaker! The internet was also unstable. 

We kept looking and eventually found what we consider a hidden gem, a little north of Jaco. 

Our New Home

In late 2021, we purchased our first home in Costa Rica. A fixer-upper on almost one acre of land, backed by rainforest. 

The house had been more of a camp in the past and didn’t have any glass or even screens on the windows. There were four bedrooms and lots of beds with very old mattresses. The entire property was brimming with hundreds of banana plants. 

The traditional wooden bars and no glass windows when we first bought our house

When we visited the house as a family, we all thought it was amazing. The older gentleman who owned it shook our hands as we left. He told us in Spanish to make an offer and it would be ours. We made the offer soon and he accepted. 

Making It Our Own

After the closing, we hired a contractor to do some renovations and remodeling. We needed to make it a bit more habitable, especially adding glass windows to keep any critters out. The kitchen and bathrooms also needed a big overhaul.

Installing the windows

During the month or two of construction, we drove over to the house to check on things often. We also had family picnics there every weekend to get the kids excited about moving. 

Since moving in, we have continued to make more improvements. We added a swimming pool and have bought lots of decor and home furnishings to make it our own. 

Our pool getting dropped in

We also have thinned out some of the bananas to add gardens with flowers, shrubs, and some other fruit trees. Don’t worry, we still have way too many bananas!

Costa Rica Life

Much like with any family around the world, life is busy. We both work from home full-time on our website, writing articles, booking tours and shuttle transfers, and doing video consulting for people traveling/moving here. The kids both go to a private school about 15 minutes away. There are always birthday parties, events, and of course, many errands to run.   

On school vacations (a few times per year), we usually do what we call a work trip. During these trips, we revisit areas around Costa Rica and do new experiences with the kids. We take lots of notes, pictures, and videos. Then we write our articles.  

While it is a pretty awesome job, sometimes it can be challenging. Our two boys don’t always want to check out every trail or see every waterfall. Sometimes they are tired or have had enough.

For example, we have probably done way too many coffee tours with them! They complain beforehand but then they love it, because each one is a little different. They are both getting to be very good coffee pickers.

The kids having fun on a coffee tour

We always take the time to explain that this is our job, and we have to do as much as we can so we can share all the details with the people traveling here.  

Mostly, we have a lot of fun and have made some awesome memories. The kids, especially Sam who is the oldest, are slowly starting to see how lucky they are. 

As they get older, we’ll have new and different experiences. We’ll get to see how they each express their own interests and what types of things they want to do. Of course, we’ll write about it all. 

What’s Next?

Now that we’ve settled into our home, we don’t plan on relocating any time soon. We really like the area we are in now and having our own home and property is rewarding.  

Work since the pandemic has continued to be very steady and Costa Rica remains a popular destination for travelers and people moving here. In fact, there were so many people moving here during and after Covid that it became a bit much.

Many beautiful tracts of rainforest have been cut down by developers to make attractive lots for new homes. Concrete and construction trucks have flooded roads and neighborhoods in places like Uvita, Nosara, Santa Teresa, and other destinations.

Seeing that has been hard. We know that growth and development is normal, but it’s out of balance right now. That’s why in the last few years we have really tried to step up our efforts to give back to the environment. We have partnered with some amazing organizations like Community Carbon Trees and MareBlu.

Getting recognized for our work with MareBlu, an ocean conservation organization

We also added a Sustainability section to our website so that we can share information about hotels and activities that are more sustainable. We hope that these efforts will make some type of positive impact on Costa Rica and the world.   

Conclusion

So that’s what we’ve been up to in the last few years. Costa Rica has been good to us, and we still love it. The people, the environment, and the experiences. Ten years have gone by in the blink of an eye and writing these posts reminds us that it is an ever-changing adventure.

Until our next check in, pura vida! 

Thinking more about moving to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

We’re Moving to Costa Rica!

First Impressions on Living in Costa Rica

Living in Costa Rica: One Month Update

Buying a Car in Costa Rica

Fun Facts from Our First Six Months in Costa Rica

Our First Year in Costa Rica

House Sitting: How to Live in Costa Rica for $2,000 a Year

Two Years in Costa Rica: How Life Has Changed

Having a Baby in Costa Rica

Applying for Residency in Costa Rica Without a Lawyer

Living in Costa Rica: Three-Year Update

4 Years in Costa Rica: Settling Into the Every Day

Living in Costa Rica: 5 Years Strong

Starting a Business in Costa Rica

Moving to Costa Rica with Kids

Moving to Costa Rica: 7 Years Abroad

Buying a House in Costa Rica

Private Schools in Costa Rica: Part 1, General Info

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