Colin McCrate's Blog, page 13

Encyclopedia Botanica Podcast, Episode 69: November Q + A

Fall is here, and the days are shorter and colder. Many of us are winding down in our gardens, but not in our garden questions! This episode has a veritable potpourri of topics, including garden pests, keeping pathways weed-free, how to dry cayenne peppers, drip irrigation, and planting garlic.

HOW TO LISTEN:Subscribe in iTunes (or your favorite podcast player) to have our podcasts sent directly to your device.Listen right now in your browser by clicking above.SHOW NOTES:

In this episode, we discuss:

Preventing garden pestsKeeping your pathways weed freeDrying cayenne peppersAdding drip irrigation to organic-shaped bedsPlanting garlic and favorite varieties

Important Take-aways:

If you’re struggling with issues from larger garden pests like birds, squirrels, or rodents, try netting the planting with bird netting pinned down with lawn staples or stakes as a deterrent.

A stirrup hoe (also know as a hula hoe) along with a soft rake can make keeping your pathways weed-free a breeze. Stirrup hoes are also great for cultivating large gardens. 
As we mentioned in the podcast, it's likely that you already have a hard rake at home. If that's the case, you can use the hard rake instead of the stirrup hoe to break up the weeds. 

The easiest way to dry your cayenne peppers is to string them together and hang them in a cool, dark place. You can grind them into flakes or use them whole.

To add drip irrigation to organic shaped areas, you'll want to use ¼-inch emitter drip line tubing rather than drip tape, anchoring it in place using garden staples. There is also another material called ½-inch emitter tubing that is a pressure compensating like drip tape, but is tube shaped and can be used in curvy beds. It’s great in larger perennial landscape installations. If you want to be able to run it on a different schedule than your garden beds, you can install a splitter at the spigot and use two different timers and main lines OR you can use a hose-bib timer that has two zones like this one from Claber. 

If you do already have one hose bib timer, it's more cost effective to install a second because the single zone timers cost about 1/3rd of the price as the dual zone timers. We use this simple, easy to use, battery operated timer from Dig for all of our annual vegetable gardens. 

It’s garlic planting season, and we shared a recap of the varieties our Slack group members are planting. As a recap, hardneck varieties have a stiff central stem and fewer and larger cloves. Softneck varieties have a flexible central stem, and the bulbs tend to have many small cloves and thick wrapper skins.

Like what you hear? Please share our podcast with a friend. Subscribe on iTunes or your favorite podcast player so you never miss a beat. And we'd really appreciate you showing us some love by leaving a rating and review on iTunes. 

Have a topic you'd like see us dig in to? Leave us a note in the comment section below or #EBpodcast on Instagram and Twitter!

We need your support to keep this podcast going! Any amount helps, so consider support us one of two ways:  

Become an Encyclopedia Botanica Patreon

OR

Make a one-time contribution to the EB podcast

To receive a complimentary PDF of exercises you can do in the gardening off-season to help make sure your body is ready to go when spring rolls around, email getwell@elevatechiropracticrehab.com or submit a request through their website www.elevatechiropracticrehab.com

Encyclopedia Botanica Podcast, Episode 68: Smart Garden Body Mechanics

Whether you garden as a hobby or as professional, chances are that you garden because you love it. We all want to be able to do the things we love for a long time, so it’s important to be conscientious about how we’re using our bodies in the garden. We also don’t want our gardening to get in the way of other activities we love such as running, skiing, or playing with our kids. On this episode, we’re joined by Dr. Lee and Dr. Jason of Seattle-based Elevate Chiropractic and Rehab to talk with us about smart garden body mechanics.  

HOW TO LISTEN:Subscribe in iTunes (or your favorite podcast player) to have our podcasts sent directly to your device.Listen right now in your browser by clicking above.SHOW NOTES:

In this episode, we discuss:

Body tips for gardeners for common gardening activities like crouching, kneeling, lifting, and digging.Activities we can be doing over the winter to help make sure our bodies are ready to go when spring rolls aroundIf you’re already dealing with movement issues, gardening be a good way to add more movement into your day

Important Take-aways:

Staying mobile and moving positions is important in the garden, as is stabilizing with your core. It’s a good idea to do a full range of motion exercises and even getting in a "warm-up" of sorts before you start to garden. Then, consider moving around every so often, at the most every 20 minutes. Whether it be changing position from kneeling to a deep squat or taking one knee, it is better to stay moving and not get caught in an awkward position for an excessive period of time.

The change of seasons as an opportunity to fix any issues that are causing you pain or not allowing you to complete activities as long as you would like, whether that be in the garden or elsewhere. Exercises to condition the core, strengthen the posterior chain, and to expand mobility are perfect winter activities. Dr. Lee and Dr. Jason are offering EB podcast listeners a resource with all of this information.

To receive a complimentary PDF of exercises you can do in the gardening off-season to help make sure your body is ready to go when spring rolls around, email getwell@elevatechiropracticrehab.com or submit a request through their website www.elevatechiropracticrehab.com

Like what you hear? Please share our podcast with a friend. Subscribe on iTunes or your favorite podcast player so you never miss a beat. And we'd really appreciate you showing us some love by leaving a rating and review on iTunes. 

Have a topic you'd like see us dig in to? Leave us a note in the comment section below or #EBpodcast on Instagram and Twitter!

We need your support to keep this podcast going! Any amount helps, so consider support us one of two ways:  

Become an Encyclopedia Botanica Patreon

OR

Make a one-time contribution to the EB podcast

Our Guests: 



























Jason Hodges, DCCHIROPRACTOR | FOUNDER

Dr. Jason Hodges received his Doctor of Chiropractic degree from Palmer College of Chiropractic West in San Jose, CA. He has completed post graduate and professional training in corrective exercise therapy (CES NASM), fascial movement taping (RockTape), Active Release Technique (ART), Neurokinetic Therapy (NKT), Graston (IASTM), Functional Movement Screens (FMS / SFMA), Foundation Training, functional blood chemistry and Functional Medicine. He is always striving to improve his efficiency, effectiveness, and relevance as a healthcare practitioner through deliberate practice, exposure to new techniques, educational seminars, and staying up-to-date on health and wellness research. 

Jason grew up near the Tahoe National Forest and naturally he fell in love with the outdoors. He is an avid snowboarder, surfer, and backcountry enthusiast.  Playing the guitar is his primary source of meditation.   

Lee Schuster, DC ATC FRCmsCHIROPRACTOR

Originally from Buffalo, New York, Dr. Lee Schuster moved to Seattle in April 2017. As a student-athlete and captain of the rugby team, Lee received his undergraduate degree in Athletic Training from Canisius College in 2013. In his experience as an ATC, he has worked with Olympians, Professional Rugby Players, NCAA Athletes, High School All-Americans, military service members, and weekend warriors; establishing their individual goals and providing the appropriate intervention to achieve such. Feeling the need to expand on what he learned as a Certified Athletic Trainer, and in order to improve the care his patients receive, Lee decided to pursue a Doctor of Chiropractic degree at New York Chiropractic College. 

Lee is an avid outdoorsman, taking every chance he gets to explore the beauty that is the PNW. In his free time you may find him backpacking, bouldering, hitting the slackline, or practicing yoga or meditation. Dr. Lee believes the mind-body connection is of the utmost importance in the healing process.

To receive a complimentary PDF of exercises you can do in the gardening off-season to help make sure your body is ready to go when spring rolls around, email getwell@elevatechiropracticrehab.com or submit a request through their website www.elevatechiropracticrehab.com

Encyclopedia Botanica Podcast, Episode 67: Garden Site Selection

It’s the time of year when we start shifting our focus from what’s actually growing in our gardens to what we’re dreaming of growing next year. For some of us, that means expanding or redesigning garden in some way. For others, it might mean taking the leap from growing vegetables in a few small containers to dedicating a large part of your yard to food production. Whether you’re expanding your garden to accommodate more crops or starting from scratch and building a brand new garden, there a few key factors to keep in mind when choosing a site that will help you make the most of the space you dedicate to your garden.

HOW TO LISTEN:Subscribe in iTunes (or your favorite podcast player) to have our podcasts sent directly to your device.Listen right now in your browser by clicking above.SHOW NOTES:

In this episode, we discuss the factors to consider when choosing a site for an edible garden:

SunlightAccessibilityWaterSoil qualityFencing

Important Take-aways:

When you’re looking for a site, keep in mind that it is essential that your garden receive a minimum of six hours of sunlight each day at the height of the growing season.

Ideally, vegetable garden beds aren’t just accessible, but also visible from your house. Garden maintenance will be much easier if you happen to walk by your garden on a daily basis.

Not only do you want to be able to set up a simple, manageable and effective irrigation system for your garden, but you’ll also want to be able to reach the garden by hose for direct sowing, watering transplants, and other uses.

When choosing a site for your garden, it’s unlikely that you’ll find a location on your property with soil that is ready for planting, and this can easily be fixed with an application of a few inches (or feet if filling a raised bed) of organic vegetable garden soil and compost.

Soils around homes that may have been painted with lead paint, homes near heavy industrial sites, or raised beds built with treated wood manufactured before 2004 could all contain contaminated soils. If you’re worried that the soil on your property may be contaminated, have it tested.

If you live in an environment where rabbits or deer are possible garden pests, install fencing to keep them from raiding your edible garden.

Both of our gardening books discuss this topic in more detail and provide instructional photos and graphics that support many of the ideas we introduced in this episode: 

[image error] [image error] [image error]

Click on the images to purchase on Amazon, or buy straight from us here! Our books can also be found at Barnes and Nobel, Target, West Coast Seeds, as well as many other booksellers and local nurseries. 

Like what you hear? Please share our podcast with a friend. Subscribe on iTunes or your favorite podcast player so you never miss a beat. And we'd really appreciate you showing us some love by leaving a rating and review on iTunes. 

Have a topic you'd like see us dig in to? Leave us a note in the comment section below or #EBpodcast on Instagram and Twitter!

We need your support to keep make fresh, quality weekly content! Support us here: 

Become an Encyclopedia Botanica Patreon

OR

Make a one-time contribution to the EB podcast

Encyclopedia Botanica Podcast, Episode 66: Raspberries with Lisa Devetter

Raspberries are relatively easy to grow, and with the right care and maintenance, can be an extremely productive crop in your garden. Lisa Devetter, Assistant Professor of Berry Crops at Washington State University (WSU), joins us on today’s podcast to talk about raspberry growing considerations, including the differences between June-bearing and Everbearing varieties. Lisa’s program emphasis at WSU is on maximizing productivity and fruit quality, as well as ensuring the health of adjacent natural resources critical for berry crop production.

HOW TO LISTEN:Subscribe in iTunes (or your favorite podcast player) to have our podcasts sent directly to your device.Listen right now in your browser by clicking above.

June bearing or Floricane raspberries pruned for winter

SHOW NOTES:

In this episode, we discuss:

Ideal growing conditions for raspberries, including water and fertilization needsHow to thin plants before they fruit in early summerPruning considerations for both June-bearing and Everbearing raspberriesFavorite varieties and what to look for when selecting a raspberry type

Important Take-aways:

Raspberries are heavy feeders. Apply a balanced fertilizer 3 times during the spring and early summer to make sure they have enough nutrients. Water consistently with drip irrigation.Raspberries should be contained in rows of about one foot, with spacing of 4-6 canes per square foot. Thin as needed in the spring to achieve this spacing, removing the weakest looking canes.Primocane (commonly known as Everbearing, or Fall-bearing) raspberries produce fruit at the top of first-year canes in late summer. If allowed to overwinter, these same canes will produce fruit again in early summer of the second year.  Prune just the top part of the cane off and the plant will fruit again in the spring.Floricane (commonly know as June-bearing, or summer-bearing) raspberries produce fruit on the previous year’s growth. Unlike primocane-fruiting raspberries, these canes must remain intact throughout the winter and following growing season, until harvest. Prune the canes that produced fruit to the ground and leave the new canes to produce fruit next year.Tulameen is a universal favorite variety. When selecting raspberries, look for a variety that is adapted to your region and has good disease resistance.

Berry books we recommend:

[image error] [image error] [image error] [image error] [image error]

Like what you hear? Please share our podcast with a friend. Subscribe on iTunes or your favorite podcast player so you never miss a beat. And we'd really appreciate you showing us some love by leaving a rating and review on iTunes. 

Have a topic you'd like see us dig in to? Leave us a note in the comment section below or #EBpodcast on Instagram and Twitter!

We need your support to keep make fresh, quality weekly content! Support us here: 

Become an Encyclopedia Botanica Patreon

OR

Make a one-time contribution to the EB podcast

Encyclopedia Botanica Podcast, Episode 65: October Slack Q+A

The days are getting shorter and cooler, and that Fall crispness is definitely in the air. In this week’s episode, we answer a potpourri of questions following up on previous podcast episodes. Tune in for more information on harvesting sunflower seeds, planting garlic, using drip irrigation, and amending soil. Many thanks to our Club Encyclopedia Botanica podcast funders for asking such smart follow-up questions and helping us all get into more detail on these timely topics!

HOW TO LISTEN:Subscribe in iTunes (or your favorite podcast player) to have our podcasts sent directly to your device.Listen right now in your browser by clicking above.SHOW NOTES:

In this episode, we discuss:

Harvesting sunflower seedsPlanting garlicFollow-up questions on drip irrigation, including installing and winterizingAmending soil

Important Take-aways:

To harvest sunflower seeds, wait until the petals look dry and the seeds appear full (they are often white with black stripes, though the color can vary by variety). Cut off the head and leave in a warm, dry place until it is completely dry and the seeds fall out.If you replant the seeds you've saved from F1 varieties, you'll end up with a variety of shapes and sizes of sunflowers in your garden. Microgreens are also a great way to use bulk sunflower seed.Plant your garlic as late as possible in the fall or early winter (to prevent it from sprouting too early), but before there is any risk that the ground might be frozen.When installing drip irrigation, bury as much of the main line as possible, or use garden staples to hold it in place out of the way. To get your system running again after winterizing, remove the drip tape or ¼-inch emitter tubing from the beds so you can turn the soil, and then lay the lines back in place.Fall is a great time of the year to amend your garden beds, but it’s hard to give a specific recommendation that will work for everyone. It’s best to get your soil tested and then amend with lime based on the pH of your soil. When in doubt, follow the instructions on the bag, or in general, add about 1-2 lbs per 4x8 foot bed at the end of each season.

Like what you hear? Please share our podcast with a friend. Subscribe on iTunes or your favorite podcast player so you never miss a beat. And we'd really appreciate you showing us some love by leaving a rating and review on iTunes. 

Have a topic you'd like see us dig in to? Leave us a note in the comment section below or #EBpodcast on Instagram and Twitter!

We need your support to keep make fresh, quality weekly content! Support us here: 

Become an Encyclopedia Botanica Patreon

OR

Make a one-time contribution to the EB podcast

Encyclopedia Botanica Podcast, Episode 64: Drip Irrigation, Part 2

Last week we discussed the various benefits of drip irrigation, along with how to operate and maintain a system. Today we’re discussing the details and providing everything you need to know to install your own drip irrigation system.

HOW TO LISTEN:Subscribe in iTunes (or your favorite podcast player) to have our podcasts sent directly to your device.Listen right now in your browser by clicking above.SHOW NOTES:

In this episode, we discuss:

The different types of drip irrigation systemsThe various parts and fittings that comprise a systemProducts love and those we suggest avoiding

Important Take-aways:

Drip irrigation is a system of narrow plastic tubes that deliver water at a slow rate directly to the surface of the soil. The tubing can consist of either drip tape or ¼” emitter tubing:

Drip tapes are flat and straight. They are cost effective and quick to set up. However, they are not particularly flexible, so only work for setting up straight rows. Drip tapes are relatively easy to damage while gardening, but also very easy to repair if minor leaks do occur. Drip tapes are also pressure compensating, which means that the entire tube fills with water before the emitters start to release water. This ensures that the emitters at the far end of the line are dripping at the same rate as those closest to the mainline.

¼” emitter tubing is a small hose with emitters spaced every 6 or 12 inches. Emitter tubing is flexible, so it’s useful for container irrigation and beds with curved lines, as well as in raised beds with straight lines. It is relatively easy to set up, although the small fittings can be challenging to put together, and it is more durable than drip tape.

Each type of drip line or emitter system will have its own complement of fittings including fittings to connect to the mainline, end fittings, tees, elbows, crosses, and couplers. You will also want to add a filter and a simple automatic timer to your drip irrigation system.

Many companies sell drip irrigation kits for small gardens that include just about everything you need to build your system, or you can assemble your own.

We recommend you avoid soaker hose and Netafim tubing products (commonly sold at hardware stores), and stick with ¼” emitter tubing or drip tape. Soaker hoses rarely last more than a season in a garden, and netafim products are bulky and hard to work with.

Drip irrigation products we recommend:

Both the 1/4 inch drip line and the drip irrigation kit come with tubing with pre inserted drip emitters. This is a really important detail to look for, as the bubblers and systems that require you to insert your own emitters are much less effective and not nearly as fun to work with. The drip tape is what we use in our gardens, but there are no kits set up for drip tape, so you'll have to out everything together yourself. A guide to piecing together a drip tape irrigation system in is our book, Food Grown Right, In Your Backyard. 

[image error] Dig Digital Hose End Timer [image error] [image error] [image error]DIG Drip Kit[image error] [image error] 1/4" Drip Line, 6" Spacing[image error] [image error] [image error] Drip Tape Irrigation Kit [image error] [image error] [image error] Drip Tape[image error]

Like what you hear? Please share our podcast with a friend. Subscribe on iTunes or your favorite podcast player so you never miss a beat. And we'd really appreciate you showing us some love by leaving a rating and review on iTunes. 

Have a topic you'd like see us dig in to? Leave us a note in the comment section below or #EBpodcast on Instagram and Twitter!

We need your support to keep make fresh, quality weekly content! Support us here: 

Become an Encyclopedia Botanica Patreon

OR

Make a one-time contribution to the EB podcast

Encyclopedia Botanica Podcast, Episode 63: Drip Irrigation

Vegetables need adequate and consistent water to grow well. Most vegetables are 70-95 percent water, and they need to get all that from somewhere. When it comes to watering your vegetable garden, I have found that a drip irrigation system with an automatic timer is the best way to achieve the consistent watering that crops require. A drip irrigation system, while a little more costly and time consuming to install than say, a garden hose, will end up saving you time, water and money in the long run.

HOW TO LISTEN:Subscribe in iTunes (or your favorite podcast player) to have our podcasts sent directly to your device.Listen right now in your browser by clicking above.SHOW NOTES:

In this episode, we discuss:

The benefits of drip irrigationHow frequently to run your systemWhy winterizing your drip irrigation system isn’t necessary


























1/2 inch drip tape























1/4 inch emitter tubing

Important Take-aways:

The benefits of a drip irrigation system are diverse:Applying water directly to the soil surface is the most resource-efficient way to irrigate your plants.Some crops, such as tomatoes, can be more prone to disease if their leaves are constantly getting wet, so drip irrigation can also help reduce disease issues.Consistent watering also helps reduce the chances that your fruiting crops will develop blossom end rot.Drip irrigation helps organize things because you can seed and transplant right along the drip lines, ensuring consistent germination and that water is going right to the roots of the emerging plants.Conventional wisdom is to water crops deeply every few days to promote the growth of large root systems, encouraging the plants to chase the water deep into the subsoil. Experiment with different watering schedules to find what works best for your climate, soil type, and crop selection. The “golden range” of moisture to aim for is comparable to the feel of a damp sponge after you’ve wrung it out. A weekly moisture check and 30 seconds updating your timer settings will ensure proper watering all season long.Drip irrigation lines are not under pressure between watering cycles, so the tubing and drip lines tend to empty themselves of water after each session, which means you can leave your system in place during the winter. You should remove the Y-valve, timer, pressure regulator, and filter and store them inside until setting your system back up in the spring.

































































































Drip irrigation products we recommend:

Both the 1/4 inch drip line and the drip irrigation kit come with tubing with pre inserted drip emitters. This is a really important detail to look for, as the bubblers and systems that require you to insert your own emitters are much less effective and not nearly as fun to work with. The drip tape is what we use in our gardens, but there are no kits set up for drip tape, so you'll have to out everything together yourself. A guide to piecing together a drip tape irrigation system in is our book, Food Grown Right, In Your Backyard. 

[image error] Dig Digital Hose End Timer [image error] [image error] [image error]DIG Drip Kit[image error] [image error] 1/4" Drip Line, 6" Spacing[image error] [image error] [image error] Drip Tape[image error]

Like what you hear? Please share our podcast with a friend. Subscribe on iTunes or your favorite podcast player so you never miss a beat. And we'd really appreciate you showing us some love by leaving a rating and review on iTunes. 

Have a topic you'd like see us dig in to? Leave us a note in the comment section below or #EBpodcast on Instagram and Twitter!

We need your support to keep make fresh, quality weekly content! Support us here: 

Become an Encyclopedia Botanica Patreon

OR

Make a one-time contribution to the EB podcast

September Question of the Month

Question of the Month:  

Q: Can you harvest your sunflower seeds to replant the following season?

A: Yes, defintely! The only catch is that most sunflower varieties are F1 hybrids which means that the offspring of your saved seed will have different qualities than it's parent. We think that the varied shapes and sizes of the flowers from saved seed are fun, but if you're growing sunflowers for a specific purpose, you may want to consider buying some new seed for the 2018 season. 

Harvesting sunflowers seeds:
1. Let all of the petals on the plant die back and dry out. When the back of the flower head (or the bracts) turns from green to brown the seeds are ready to harvest. While your plant is drying, you can cover the head with a fine mesh, using a rubber band to secure the mesh around the stem, to help keep birds and other pests from turning your seed into lunch. 
2. Cut the head off the plant about 5 inches below the flower head (so you have something to hang on to!).
3. Place head in a box to dry out completely and then use a fork or your fingers to remove the seeds from the head. Dried seeds can be stored in a ziplock bag and kept in a cool, dark place. If dried and stored properly, the seed is viable up to 3 years after harvest. 

Pro Tip: Sunflower seed sprouts into our favorite type of microgreen! For more on growing your own microgreens, check out the following resources:

Encyclopedia Botanica Podcast, Episode 21: Microgreens Grow Your Own Microgreens

If you're already starting to think about seed ordering for the 2018 season, remember that you can always use the code EBPODCAST at checkout for off of your Seattle Seed Co order anytime!

Encyclopedia Botanica Podcast, Episode 62: Vegan Fertlizer

Organic fertilizer is a key component of any vegetable garden, and today we are going to explore a specialized recipe for an organic fertilizer that is totally vegan. You might prefer a vegan fertilizer because of your dietary preferences, or, if you live in an urban environment with high pest pressures (rodents), a vegan fertilizer can be a great way to curb that issue. Join us as we review the macro and micronutrients in a fertilizer blend, what they do for your soil, and how to mix your own batch at home.

HOW TO LISTEN:Subscribe in iTunes (or your favorite podcast player) to have our podcasts sent directly to your device.Listen right now in your browser by clicking above.SHOW NOTES:

In this episode, we discuss:

The NPK ratio and why it mattersOur recipe for a vegan organic fertilizerThe role each component of the fertilizer plays in your soil health, including cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, kelp meal, and greensand

Important Take-aways:

All fertilizers are assessed by their NPK ratio, which stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. This number is typically shown prominently on the label of the product and is typically shown as a series of three numbers separated by hyphens (for example, 4-5-6 or 0-0-10). These numbers indicate the percentage by weight of each nutrient that is in the fertilizer.

N, P and K are often referred to as “macronutrients.” In addition to these macronutrients, your plants need a range of other “micronutrients” such as zinc, boron, magnesium and calcium.

Our recipe for a vegan organic fertilizer that contains both macro and micronutrients is:

2 parts cottonseed meal

2 parts alfalfa meal

1 part kelp meal

1 part greensand

Cottonseed Meal (5-2-1): A by-product of the cotton industry, cottonseed meal is an excellent source of slow-release nitrogen, phosphorus, potash and numerous trace elements.

Alfalfa Meal (3-1-2): Alfalfa meal is and is alkaline, which will also help balance out the more acidic cottonseed meal.

Kelp Meal (1-0-2): As the name indicates, Kelp Meal is made from dried ocean seaweed. The range of nutrients in Kelp Meal is somewhat astounding and includes Magnesium, Sulfur, Sodium, and Vanadium.

Greensand (0-0-3): Greensand is a great source of Potassium, and despite its non-renewable nature, its wide range of soil-improving properties make it a necessary soil-building substance. In addition to supplying Potassium, Greensand is a source of many micronutrients, and it can help break up clayey soils and improve your soil’s water retention capacity.

Like what you hear? Please share our podcast with a friend. Subscribe on iTunes or your favorite podcast player so you never miss a beat. And we'd really appreciate you showing us some love by leaving a rating and review on iTunes. 

Have a topic you'd like see us dig in to? Leave us a note in the comment section below or #EBpodcast on Instagram and Twitter!

We need your support to keep make fresh, quality weekly content! Support us here: 

Become an Encyclopedia Botanica Patreon

Encyclopedia Botanica Podcast, Episode 61: September Slack Q+A

The Fall season is almost upon us, and the discussion happening in our Slack group definitely reflects that. Summer crops are wrapping up, and our Fall gardens are full of short and half season plantings to round out the year. In addition to questions about powdery mildew and growing the best beets, we're also thinking ahead to fruit tree pruning and soil amendments. Tune in to today's episode for the September highlights from Club Encyclopedia Botanica, our Slack group for podcast funders.

HOW TO LISTEN:Subscribe in iTunes (or your favorite podcast player) to have our podcasts sent directly to your device.Listen right now in your browser by clicking above.SHOW NOTES:

In this episode, we discuss:

Powdery mildewGrowing great beetsPotted fig tree pruningTo reuse or not to reuse the soil from container growingSanitizing pruning shears


























Hilary's Early Wonder beets























Kellie's Touchstone Golden beets

Important Take-aways:

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that shows up as white spots on the leaves of your plants. It’s common on plants in the cucurbit family, including squash and cucumbers. Remove the heavily damaged leaves and spray this homemade anti-fungal on the rest of the plant to help slow the spread: http://www.seattleurbanfarmco.com/blog/2014/2/1/organic-anit-fungal-spray-for-peas-and-summer-squash

Beets are heavy feeders and they thrive when planted in nutrient rich soil. Feed them with a kelp-based foliar feeder 3 and 6 weeks after planting and don’t underestimate the value of thinning so there is room for the beets to size up. How are your beets growing this year? Tag your Instagram photos with #beetninja so we can check them out!

Fall/winter is a great time to prune potted figs because the plants are heading towards dormancy. The most important thing to consider is that figs produce on the previous year's growth. Prune off the small suckers and for the main growth, maintain 3-4 main branches.

It’s best to replace the potting soil you are using for container gardening every year to prevent diseases and replenish fertility. You can use that soil elsewhere in your garden but you should always use fresh soil in your containers.

Sanitizing pruning shears is important for preventing the spread of disease. All you need is rubbing alcohol and a bottle with a small nozzle. Spray the rubbing alcohol on your shears between garden visits and always after pruning tomatoes.

Like what you hear? Please share our podcast with a friend. Subscribe on iTunes or your favorite podcast player so you never miss a beat. And we'd really appreciate you showing us some love by leaving a rating and review on iTunes. 

Have a topic you'd like see us dig in to? Leave us a note in the comment section below or #EBpodcast on Instagram and Twitter!

We need your support to keep make fresh, quality weekly content! Support us here: 

Become an Encyclopedia Botanica Patreon