Gesine Bullock-Prado's Blog, page 21

Gateau St. Swanaré

Gateaux St. Swanaré:  Puff, caramel/pumpkin pastry cream, hard caramel and choux.  And swans!

If you didn't get to my classes this weekend at King Arthur Flour, you missed pyramids, swans and fun.  And my ever present lopsided ponytail.  Why, after all these years, do I have a complete inability to center my mop of hair at the center of my cranium?  It's always listing to the left.

If you missed all the fun, not to worry, I'll be back at King Arthur Education Center in May.  It's coming sooner than you think.  I'll post the dates of my classes here, so stay tuned!


Photo taken by Bill Stahr.  Lopsided ponytail created by yours truly. Friday's class was dedicated to constructing my pyramid cake.  Lopsided filling optional.  Picture courtesy of Nancy Sturtevant Wolfe.

Banana Bread Caramel Cream Layer Cake (AKA the angry banana cake) AND a Giveaway!

It DOES look like an angry muppet.
While I pride myself on my free range, local schmocal  lifestyle, there are plenty of times when I daytrip to the big box stores for bargains.  I especially enjoy Price Chopper.  Our friend Jeff is an actor and the official voice of the Price Chopper ax.  If you've ever been treated to a Price Chopper ad, the image of a human shoe-horned into royal blue tights and smothered in foam ax livery has been burned into your frontal lobe.  It's Jeff's disembodied voice that emanates from this poor creature, although it's not Jeff in the costume.  Which is a little disappointing because I like to pretend that my dear friend had the pleasure of dancing in a steamy parking lot in the San Fernando valley in full flop sweat while covered in blue foam.  When I walk through the sliding doors, his voice greets me from the front door display and I get the giggles.


It also makes me happy to see barely browned quintuplet bananas for $.50.  We eat bananas with alacrity in the Prado household; they rarely get the chance to get mushy.  For $.50 I get all the benefits of mushy banana for a baked treat at a price truly chopped.


Come on!  $0.50?  How can I pass that by?
Even better is the chance to make this recipe AND get the Creme Fraiche for NADA!  I'm pleased to announce that Vermont Creamery will give a random commenter on this page a Creme Fraiche gift extravaganza that includes their outrageous vanilla creme fraiche and other goodies.  So comment below by November 16th and if you located in the US, you could be mashing bananas and playing with creme fraiche in not time.

BANANA BREAD CARAMEL CREAM LAYER CAKE



INGREDIENTS

For the cake

2 1/2 cups mashed banana (about 5 browned medium bananas)
3 cups cake flour (I use King Arthur)
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted, room temperature butter
4 large eggs, separated
1 tablespoon vanilla
1 eight ounce container creme fraiche (I use Vermont Creamery vanilla creme fraiche for this.  If you have no reliable creme fraiche supply, you can substitute sour cream)

For the caramel cream

2 cups sugar
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
8 egg yolks
1/2 cup cornstarch
4 cups half and half
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cups heavy cream for folding into finished cream

For the caramel sauce

1 cup sugar
1/3 cup water
squirt lemon juice
pinch salt
3/4 cup heavy cream, room temperature
4 ounces creme fraiche, room temperature

To finish

1 ripe but NOT browned banana
2 tablespoons  granulated sugar
simple syrup (1 cup sugar and 1 cup water melted together on the stove top or in the microwave)

PROCEDURE

For the cake

•Preheat your oven to 300º

•Line four 9" cake pans with parchment rounds and spray with non-stick cooking spray.  Set aside.

•In the bowl of a stand mixer fit with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.

•While the butter and brown sugar are creaming, combine the flour, salt and baking powder in a small bowl and whisk to combine.

•Mash the bananas until smooth (I puree them in the food processor for extra smoothness) and transfer to a liquid measure cup to make sure you've got the right measure.  Stir in the creme fraiche and the vanilla.



•Once the butter and sugar are light and fluffy, add egg yolks, one at a time, scraping the bowl between additions and making sure each egg is completely integrated into the batter before adding the next.

•Add 1/3 of the flour mixture, mix slowly, and then add half the banana mixture.  Mix slowly.  Continue in this manner until you've added all the flour and banana.  Set aside.

•In the clean bowl of a stand mixer fit with the whisk attachment, add the egg whites.  Whisk on high until just foamy.  Slowly add the granulated sugar and whisk until you achieve stiff peaks.

•Stir 1/4 of the egg whites into the batter to lighten.  Fold the remaining egg whites gently into the batter until no white streaks remain.



Evenly divided

•Divide the batter evenly among the 4 pans (it comes out to just a little over 2 cups of batter in each pan).  Smooth the batter with an offset spatula and bake until the edges just begin to brown and pull away from the sides of the pan and the cake springs back when gently poked, about 45 minutes.

•Allow to cool in the fridge.

For the filling

•Combine the sugar, water and lemon juice in a large saucepan and stir over medium heat until the sugar has completely melted.  Stop stirring and bring the sugar syrup to a medium amber color.

•Pour the half and half into the saucepan and stand back, it will bubble like crazy.  Stir the mixture over low heat until all the caramel has melted back into the half and half (some of the caramel hardens and you just need to let it warm up again in the half and half).

•In the bowl of a stand mixer fit with the whisk attachment, combine the egg yolks, salt and corn starch and whisk until smooth.  With the mixer running on medium/low, slowly pour the hot caramel cream into the mixer and continue mixing until well combined.  Transfer back to the saucepan, making sure to scrape the bottom of the mixing bowl to get any clinging cornstarch, and whisk over medium/low heat CONSTANTLY until the mixture thickens to the consistency of mayo.  Stir in the butter and continue stirring until the butter has completely melted into the cream.  Transfer to a large bowl and cover with plastic wrap, making sure the plastic touches the surface of the cream so that it doesn't form a skin.  Refrigerate until completely cool.

Good enough to eat with a spoon but save it for the cake.
For the caramel sauce

•In a large saucepan, combine the sugar, water and lemon juice over medium heat, stirring until the sugar melts.  Stop stirring and allow the syrup to become medium amber.  Immediately pour in the cream and stir in the creme fraiche.  Transfer to a heat proof bowl and refrigerate until cool and thickened.

Creme fraiche melting into hot caramel....heaven.

To assemble

•Whisk the 2 remaining cups of heavy cream for the caramel cream until stiff peaks form.  Transfer 1/4 of the cream to the bowl with the caramel cream and stir vigorously to loosen everything up.  Transfer the remaining whipped cream to the bowl and gently fold the two together until combined.  Transfer the cream to a large pastry bag fit with a large open tip.


Hard not to lick the caramel cream bowl.  So good.
•Place a cake round onto a cake round.  Brush with simple syrup.

•Pipe a layer of caramel cream on top of the cake by starting in the middle and spiraling out until you've reached the edge of the cake.  Freeze for 10 minutes to set.

•Add another layer on top of the cream and brush with simple syrup.  Pipe another layer of cream on top of the cake and freeze for 10 minutes to set.

•Add the third layer, brush, pipe and freeze to set.  Keep any remaining cream in the pastry bag and refrigerate.

•Add the last layer  and freeze again until the cake feels very stable.

•Cut the remaining banana in half and sprinkle each half evenly with 1 tablespoon of sugar.  Using a kitchen torch, gently brûlée the sugar on the bananas.




•Remove the cake from the freezer and transfer to a cake platter.  Pour the caramel over the top of the cake.  Place the bananas on top of the cake and serve immediately.

Banana Bread Caramel Cream Layer Cake (AKA the angry banana cake) AND a Giveaway!

It DOES look like an angry muppet.
While I pride myself on my free range, local schmocal  lifestyle, there are plenty of times when I daytrip to the big box stores for bargains.  I especially enjoy Price Chopper.  Our friend Jeff is an actor and the official voice of the Price Chopper ax.  If you've ever been treated to a Price Chopper ad, the image of a human shoe-horned into royal blue tights and smothered in foam ax livery has been burned into your frontal lobe.  It's Jeff's disembodied voice that emanates from this poor creature, although it's not Jeff in the costume.  Which is a little disappointing because I like to pretend that my dear friend had the pleasure of dancing in a steamy parking lot in the San Fernando valley in full flop sweat while covered in blue foam.  When I walk through the sliding doors, his voice greets me from the front door display and I get the giggles.


It also makes me happy to see barely browned quintuplet bananas for $.50.  We eat bananas with alacrity in the Prado household; they rarely get the chance to get mushy.  For $.50 I get all the benefits of mushy banana for a baked treat at a price truly chopped.


Come on!  $0.50?  How can I pass that by?
Even better is the chance to make this recipe AND get the Creme Fraiche for NADA!  I'm pleased to announce that Vermont Creamery will give a random commenter on this page a Creme Fraiche gift extravaganza that includes their outrageous vanilla creme fraiche and other goodies.  So comment below and if you located in the US, you could be mashing bananas and playing with creme fraiche in not time.

BANANA BREAD CARAMEL CREAM LAYER CAKE



INGREDIENTS

For the cake

2 1/2 cups mashed banana (about 5 browned medium bananas)
3 cups cake flour (I use King Arthur)
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted, room temperature butter
4 large eggs, separated
1 tablespoon vanilla
1 eight ounce container creme fraiche (I use Vermont Creamery vanilla creme fraiche for this.  If you have no reliable creme fraiche supply, you can substitute sour cream)

For the caramel cream

2 cups sugar
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
8 egg yolks
1/2 cup cornstarch
4 cups half and half
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cups heavy cream for folding into finished cream

For the caramel sauce

1 cup sugar
1/3 cup water
squirt lemon juice
pinch salt
3/4 cup heavy cream, room temperature
4 ounces creme fraiche, room temperature

To finish

1 ripe but NOT browned banana
2 tablespoons  granulated sugar
simple syrup (1 cup sugar and 1 cup water melted together on the stove top or in the microwave)

PROCEDURE

For the cake

•Preheat your oven to 300º

•Line four 9" cake pans with parchment rounds and spray with non-stick cooking spray.  Set aside.

•In the bowl of a stand mixer fit with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.

•While the butter and brown sugar are creaming, combine the flour, salt and baking powder in a small bowl and whisk to combine.

•Mash the bananas until smooth (I puree them in the food processor for extra smoothness) and transfer to a liquid measure cup to make sure you've got the right measure.  Stir in the creme fraiche and the vanilla.



•Once the butter and sugar are light and fluffy, add egg yolks, one at a time, scraping the bowl between additions and making sure each egg is completely integrated into the batter before adding the next.

•Add 1/3 of the flour mixture, mix slowly, and then add half the banana mixture.  Mix slowly.  Continue in this manner until you've added all the flour and banana.  Set aside.

•In the clean bowl of a stand mixer fit with the whisk attachment, add the egg whites.  Whisk on high until just foamy.  Slowly add the granulated sugar and whisk until you achieve stiff peaks.

•Stir 1/4 of the egg whites into the batter to lighten.  Fold the remaining egg whites gently into the batter until no white streaks remain.



Evenly divided

•Divide the batter evenly among the 4 pans (it comes out to just a little over 2 cups of batter in each pan).  Smooth the batter with an offset spatula and bake until the edges just begin to brown and pull away from the sides of the pan and the cake springs back when gently poked, about 45 minutes.

•Allow to cool in the fridge.

For the filling

•Combine the sugar, water and lemon juice in a large saucepan and stir over medium heat until the sugar has completely melted.  Stop stirring and bring the sugar syrup to a medium amber color.

•Pour the half and half into the saucepan and stand back, it will bubble like crazy.  Stir the mixture over low heat until all the caramel has melted back into the half and half (some of the caramel hardens and you just need to let it warm up again in the half and half).

•In the bowl of a stand mixer fit with the whisk attachment, combine the egg yolks, salt and corn starch and whisk until smooth.  With the mixer running on medium/low, slowly pour the hot caramel cream into the mixer and continue mixing until well combined.  Transfer back to the saucepan, making sure to scrape the bottom of the mixing bowl to get any clinging cornstarch, and whisk over medium/low heat CONSTANTLY until the mixture thickens to the consistency of mayo.  Stir in the butter and continue stirring until the butter has completely melted into the cream.  Transfer to a large bowl and cover with plastic wrap, making sure the plastic touches the surface of the cream so that it doesn't form a skin.  Refrigerate until completely cool.

Good enough to eat with a spoon but save it for the cake.
For the caramel sauce

•In a large saucepan, combine the sugar, water and lemon juice over medium heat, stirring until the sugar melts.  Stop stirring and allow the syrup to become medium amber.  Immediately pour in the cream and stir in the creme fraiche.  Transfer to a heat proof bowl and refrigerate until cool and thickened.

Creme fraiche melting into hot caramel....heaven.

To assemble

•Whisk the 2 remaining cups of heavy cream for the caramel cream until stiff peaks form.  Transfer 1/4 of the cream to the bowl with the caramel cream and stir vigorously to loosen everything up.  Transfer the remaining whipped cream to the bowl and gently fold the two together until combined.  Transfer the cream to a large pastry bag fit with a large open tip.


Hard not to lick the caramel cream bowl.  So good.
•Place a cake round onto a cake round.  Brush with simple syrup.

•Pipe a layer of caramel cream on top of the cake by starting in the middle and spiraling out until you've reached the edge of the cake.  Freeze for 10 minutes to set.

•Add another layer on top of the cream and brush with simple syrup.  Pipe another layer of cream on top of the cake and freeze for 10 minutes to set.

•Add the third layer, brush, pipe and freeze to set.  Keep any remaining cream in the pastry bag and refrigerate.

•Add the last layer  and freeze again until the cake feels very stable.

•Cut the remaining banana in half and sprinkle each half evenly with 1 tablespoon of sugar.  Using a kitchen torch, gently brûlée the sugar on the bananas.




•Remove the cake from the freezer and transfer to a cake platter.  Pour the caramel over the top of the cake.  Place the bananas on top of the cake and serve immediately.

Sugar Pumpkin Roulade

I have sugar pumpkins up the wazoo.  After harvest, they lollygagged as doorstops and exterior quaint decor.  Now those suckers are getting put to good use...in baked goods.  But don't fear, you can use grocery pumpkin puree to the same effect.  It's just not as satisfying.

The pumpkin patch has been so giving...from late summer until now.  Stop already.  
Sugar Pumpkin Roulade

INGREDIENTS

For the cake

1 cup cake flour
1/4 cup cornstarch (helps to keep cake flexible for rolling)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ginger
1 cup granulated sugar, divided
1/4 cup maple syrup
4 eggs, separated
1 cup pumpkin puree
1/2 cup creme fraiche

For the filling

1 package Philadelphia cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 stick (2 ounces) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup creme fraiche
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 cups confectioner's sugar
pinch salt
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste

For assembly

1 cup of confectioner's sugar

PROCEDURE

For the cake

•Preheat oven to 375º.  Line a half sheet pan with parchment and spray with non-stick cooking spray.  Set aside.

•In a very clean bowl of a stand mixer fit with the whisk attachment, combine the salt and egg whites.  Whisk until light and foamy and slowly add 3/4 cups of the granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the egg whites hold a stiff peak and shiny.  Don't overwhip to the point they they become dry.
Stiff!  Shiny!  Not chunky!  That's what she said!
•Transfer the whites to a clean metal bowl.

•In the same mixing bowl (you don't have to clean it) add the egg yolks, 1/4 cup of the remaining sugar the maple syrup, pumpkin puree and the creme fraiche.  Whisk until just combined.

Just before the egg whites are added.

•In a small bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients and then sift over the egg yolk mixture.  Fold the flour mixture into the egg yolk mixture until smooth and well combined.  Add 1/4 of the egg whites and stir to lighten.  Add the remaining egg whites and gently fold into the batter until no white streaks remain.

Egg whites, they've been folded.

•Transfer the batter into the prepared sheet pan and using a large offset spatula, smooth the batter evenly in the pan.

Smoothed.  In the pan.

•Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the cake springs back when gently poke and just begins to pull away from the sides of the pan.

Hot cake on a towel.

For the filling

•Combine all ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer fit with the whisk attachment.  Start mixing on low until the confectioner's sugar is roughly integrated and then raise to high and continue whisking until smooth.  Cover with plastic wrap and fridge until needed.

To assemble:

•While the cake is hot and right out of the oven, release it from the pan by running a paring knife along the edges and flip the cake out onto a kitchen towel liberally doused with confectioner's sugar.

•Sprinkle the top of the cake with an even layer of confectioner's sugar and roll the cake IN THE TOWEL, starting at the narrower end.  Allow to cool wrapped in the towel.  This keeps the cake from cracking when you ultimately roll with filling.

Snug as a bug in a rug...or as a cake in a towel.

•Once the cake has cooled, unroll from the towel and spread the filling evenly on the cake.  Roll the cake again...this time, without the towel.  Wrap the roulade in parchment and fridge until set.

•Rip strips of parchment and place on top of the roulade.  Sift confectioner's on top of the cake.  Gently lift the parchment strips off the cake to reveal a lovely zebra stripe.  Spiffy!

Parchment on!
Parchment off!

Sugar Pumpkin Roulade

I have sugar pumpkins up the wazoo.  After harvest, they lollygagged as doorstops and exterior quaint decor.  Now those suckers are getting put to good use...in baked goods.  But don't fear, you can use grocery pumpkin puree to the same effect.  It's just not as satisfying.

The pumpkin patch has been so giving...from late summer until now.  Stop already.  
Sugar Pumpkin Roulade

INGREDIENTS

For the cake

1 cup cake flour
1/4 cup cornstarch (helps to keep cake flexible for rolling)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ginger
1 cup granulated sugar, divided
1/4 cup maple syrup
4 eggs, separated
1 cup pumpkin puree
1/2 cup creme fraiche

For the filling

1 package Philadelphia cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 stick (2 ounces) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup creme fraiche
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 cups confectioner's sugar
pinch salt
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste

PROCEDURE

For the cake

•Preheat oven to 375º.  Line a half sheet pan with parchment and spray with non-stick cooking spray.  Set aside.

•In a very clean bowl of a stand mixer fit with the whisk attachment, combine the salt and egg whites.  Whisk until light and foamy and slowly add 3/4 cups of the granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the egg whites hold a stiff peak and shiny.  Don't overwhip to the point they they become dry.
Stiff!  Shiny!  Not chunky!  That's what she said!
•Transfer the whites to a clean metal bowl.

•In the same mixing bowl (you don't have to clean it) add the egg yolks, 1/4 cup of the remaining sugar the maple syrup, pumpkin puree and the creme fraiche.  Whisk until just combined.

Just before the egg whites are added.

•In a small bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients and then sift over the egg yolk mixture.  Fold the flour mixture into the egg yolk mixture until smooth and well combined.  Add 1/4 of the egg whites and stir to lighten.  Add the remaining egg whites and gently fold into the batter until no white streaks remain.

Egg whites, they've been folded.

•Transfer the batter into the prepared sheet pan and using a large offset spatula, smooth the batter evenly in the pan.

Smoothed.  In the pan.

•Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the cake springs back when gently poke and just begins to pull away from the sides of the pan.

Hot cake on a towel.

For the filling

•Combine all ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer fit with the whisk attachment.  Start mixing on low until the confectioner's sugar is roughly integrated and then raise to high and continue whisking until smooth.  Cover with plastic wrap and fridge until needed.

To assemble:

•While the cake is hot and right out of the oven, release it from the pan by running a paring knife along the edges and flip the cake out onto a kitchen towel liberally doused with confectioner's sugar.

•Roll the cake IN THE TOWEL, starting at the narrower end.  Allow to cool wrapped in the towel.  This keeps the cake from cracking when you ultimately roll with filling.

Snug as a bug in a rug...or as a cake in a towel.

•Once the cake has cooled, unroll from the towel and spread the filling evenly on the cake.  Roll the cake again...this time, without the towel.  Wrap the roulade in parchment and fridge until set.

•Rip strips of parchment and place on top of the roulade.  Sift confectioner's on top of the cake.  Gently lift the parchment strips off the cake to reveal a lovely zebra stripe.  Spiffy!

Parchment on!
Parchment off!

Caramel Green Apple Ice Crème

I've been developing recipes for the upcoming Mohegan SunWine Fest.  I'm pastry-ing it up for two events:  the Celebrity Chef Dine Around and Bubbles and Bonbons.  I'm determined to represent my beautiful home state as deliciously and honestly as possible.  As it happens, Vermont Creamery sent me new products to test.  I think you've already heard me wax poetic about their Creamery sea salt and maple butter.  I've now taken the plunge into their vanilla bean crème fraîche and I don't know if I'll ever resurface from my obsession with the gloriously flecked, thick and creamy stuff.  It's heaven.  And as Vermont Creamery is an award winning cheese and butter producer AND a Green Mountain native company, what better ingredients to incorporate into my finished pastries?

Close up of the glory that is Vermont Creamery's vanilla bean crème fraîcheI've already finalized one element of my menu, the maple Kouign Amann and I just wanted to top it off with something refreshing and Vermonty.  What better than a caramel green apple vanilla bean creme fraiche ice cream?  And top the lot with homemade maple syrup?  I can't think of a darn thing better.

Caramel Green Apple Ice Crème

INGREDIENTS

For the custard base:

1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/3 cup water
7 egg yolks
2 cups Vermont Creamery Vanilla Bean crème fraîche
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup apple cider
1/2 teaspoon salt

For the apples:

2 medium sized apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4 inch squares and tossed in
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon butter

PROCEDURE

•Combinen the egg yolks, crème fraîche, apple cider and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fit with the whisk attachment.  Whisk until combined.

•In a heavy saucepan, combine the sugar, water and lemon juice.  Stir over medium heat until the sugar has completely melted.  Using a moist pastry brush, brush down the sides of the pan to allow any clinging sugar crystals to melt back into the sugar mixture.  Stop stirring and continue cooking the sugar until it turns a medium-light amber color.  Immediately take from the heat and add the heavy cream.  The mixture will bubble considerable so stand back and all it to calm.  Put the mixture back over low heat and stir to melt any hardened caramel.

Ready for the cream!

•With the mixer running on medium-low speed, add the hot caramel/cream mixture to the egg yolk mixture by pouring down the side of the bowl.  Continue whisking until the the ingredients are well combined.

•Transfer the custard to a large container and cover with plastic wrap.  Refrigerate until cold.

•At this point, make sure that the bowl of your ice cream maker is in the freezer.  It's such a bummer when you have a beautiful custard, cooled and ready to rumble in the ice cream maker only to realize you've left the ice cream maker bowl to languish in the cupboard.

•While your custard is cooling, melt the butter and sugar for the apples in a saucepan and add the lemon soaked apples to the saucepan and saute the apples until they are only slightly tender and have released a bit of juice.  Strain the apples and place in a bowl.  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.  Stir the liquid from the sauted apples into the chilling custard.


•Once your custard is cool, make the ice cream according to the manufacturer's instructions.  I use an attachment to my Kitchen Aid.  Just as the ice cream become soft serve consistency or a little firmer, transfer the ice cream into a large container and stir in the cooled apple cubes.  Cover the container and freeze until firm but not rock hard.


•Serve over Maple Kouign Amann  (or alone) and drizzle with Vermont Maple syrup.

Pumpkin Maple-Toffee Crème Fraîche Coffee Cake

We've survived Frankenstorm Sandy without any damage.  We were without power for a few hours.  That's it.  I put the geese and ducks into their pen early and they complained bitterly as I herded them towards shelter but once they got in and realized that I'd set up a buffet and a kiddy pool, they settled into their fowl luxury sweet happily.  The chickens hopped onto their perches and urged me to shut the doors.  The dogs hogged the sofa and demanded comforting belly rubs.  Ray and I ate Halloween candy and listened to a hand crank radio for updates.  Truth be told, it was a lovely evening.

I can't say the same for others up and down the east coast.  From West Virginia and their freak blizzard to the coasts of New Jersey, New York and Rhode Island terribly damaged by the storm, there are thousands devastated and I know each of us not terribly affected feels a little hopeless to help.  One thing you can do is to text REDCROSS to 90999 to make a $10 donation to the Hurricane Sandy relief effort.  Another thing you can do, for those who were in harm's way but find themselves safe and sound, check on your neighbors and see if they need a hand.  You might also bake them something comforting, like this nummy coffee cake.

Be safe everyone.

Pumpkin Maple-Toffee Crème Fraîche Coffee Cake

INGREDIENTS

For the toffee

1 cup (two 4oz sticks) butter (I used Vermont Creamery's Maple/Sea salt butter)
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup maple syrup
generous pinch salt
to make the toffee crumble
And additional 3 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small pieces
3 tablespoons all purpose flour

For the cake batter

2 1/2 cups All Purpose flour (I use King Arthur Flour)
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup maple syrup
1 cup (two 4oz sticks) butter at room temperature (I used Vermont Creamery's Maple/Sea Salt butter)
4 large eggs at room temperature
1 container crème fraîche (8 ounces)  I use....wait for it...Vermont Creamery's Crème Fraîche
1/2 cup pumpkin purée
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

For the glaze

1/2 cup confectioner's sugar
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 tablespoon whole milk

PROCEDURE

Make the Toffee

•Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan.  Add the sugar, maple and salt and stir over medium heat constantly until the mixture reaches 300º F on a candy thermometer.

Stir the toffee constantly to keep it from burning.  Heat to 300ºF!
Pour the toffee in a thin layer on parchment and allow to cool.  Break in to small pieces.
Pulse the toffee until it breaks into small pieces and then add chilled butter and flour.
Pulse until the mixture resembles a very fine and even crumble.

•Pour the toffee onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper and allow to cool completely

•Once the toffee has cooled, break the toffee into small pieces and pulse in a food processor to break up the pieces a bit.  Add the 3 tablespoons chilled butter and the flour and continue to pulse until a fine crumble forms.  Set aside.

Make the cake batter

•Preheat your oven to 350ºF.

•In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, baking powder and salt.  Set aside.

•In the bowl of a stand mixer fit with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.  Add the maple syrup and continue whisking until well combined.

•Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add one egg.  Mix until well combined, scrape down the bowl again and add the next egg.  Proceed in this manner:  scraping, adding egg and mixing well, until you've added all four eggs.

•Add half the flour and mix for a few seconds, add the pumpkin and crème fraîche and mix for a few seconds and then add the remaining flour and mix until just combined.

Sprinkle 1/4 of the crumble on top of the batter.

•Spray a non-stick bundt pan with baking spray(I used an Analon bundt pan that has been wonderful in released sticky cakes like this one) and spread just a little less then half the batter into the pan.  Sprinkle 1/4 of the toffee mixture along the middle of the batter and top with the remaining batter.  Bake for 45 to 50 minutes or until the cake starts to pull from the sides of the pan and springs back when you gently poke it.

•Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

Make the glaze

•In a small bowl, stir together the confectioner's sugar, maple syrup and milk until smooth.

•Carefully turn out the cake onto a serving platter and spoon the glaze over the top of the cake.  Sprinkle 1/4 of the remaining toffee crumble atop the glaze.

(I freeze the remaining crumble to use as a topping on muffins, pancakes, waffles, ice cream)

Last Resort Risotto

We're hungry.  The wind is howling.  I'm debating whether to continue filling all available receptacles with water or to take a stab at some perishables before the power goes out.

Big surprise...food for the win.

We've got a stockpile of nifty, power outage friendly foods so I look to those things that will suffer from lack of electricity.  Risotto is the first thing that comes to mind.  Our veggies that would otherwise deteriorate in a dead fridge will now find a happy home.  Our chicken breast, those cutlets shall not languish in a freon free zone.  And the butter, cheese and crème fraîche, they too will find culinary succor in my pot of arborio rice...that is if I can stop waxing poetic for a minute and actually start cooking before all heck breaks loose in my back yard.

Last Resort Risotto

INGREDIENTS
(makes to hearty hurricane servings)

1 1/4 cups arborio rice
4 cups low sodium chicken stock (I pour the entire contents of 1 Pacific brand organic / low sodium carton into a saucepan and leave it simmering during the process.  You can sub veggie stock or fish stock.)
1 small onion, finely chopped
4 cloves of garlic, minced
1 medium red bell pepper, finely chopped
juice and zest of 1 lemon
1 cup sake (or dry white wine)
1 tablespoon minced and 2 intact sprigs fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons butter, divided
1 cup freshly grated parmigiano reggiano
1/2 cup Vermont Creamery Crème Fraîche
salt and pepper to taste

PROCEDURE

•In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil and 2 tablespoons butter until the butter has melted.  Add the onion, garlic and red pepper over medium high heat.  Saute until just tender.  Add the arborio rice and stir until the outer bit of rice just begins to look translucent.

•Pour in the sake or white wine and the lemon juice into the rice mixture and reduce the heat to medium.  Stir constantly until the moisture is almost completely absorbed into the rice.  Using a ladle, pour about 1/4 cup of stock into the rice mixture and continue stirring until the moisture is absorbed.  Continue adding, a ladle at a time, stirring between each addition constantly until the moisture is absorbed until the rice is just soft but holds a very slight al dente bite (if this doesn't appeal, simply continue adding stock until the rice's texture is to your liking and if you run out of stock, start using warm water).

Butter andCrème Fraîche make for a creamy and delightfully refreshing addition.

•Lower heat to low and immediately stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, crème fraîche, parmigiano, minced rosemary and the lemon zest.  Season to taste.  Cover the risotto tightly with a lid while you gather your bowls and utensils.

•Divide the risotto evenly among two large bowls and top each with a sprig of rosemary.  I serve either with a lightly seasoned chicken breast or shrimp or whatever is in the fridge that needs to find a home on my plate before the power goes out.

Stay safe and full, sweet people!

A Treat before Frankenstorm: Or The VCCFMLPC: Vermont Creamery Crème Fraîche Mango Lassi Panna Cotta

With Hurricane Sandy on track to be both "worse and wider than Irene" (those are the words of the local meteorologist, not mine), I'm doing my best to work my way through the refrigerators of both the bakery and main house in the event we lose power, which could very well lead to my backside becoming worse and wider before this storm is over.

If Irene is an indicator, where neighbors were left without cable or ice cream for DAYS, I'm not going to waste any of the good stuff to lack of refrigeration, so I've been busy in the kitchen.

First up?


I'm using the crème fraîche sent to me by Vermont Creamery.  I'd used up all their utterly outrageous vanilla bean crème fraîche in a caramel and green apple ice cream (recipe to come soon!), so I turned to their traditional offering and combined it with some mango purée I've had in the freezer that I'm loathe to surrender to the storm gods.

And while much of my garden has lost its verdancy, my mint continues to show itself bright green and fuzzy as ever.  While I allowed my mango to defrost, I hightailed it outside where our mint grows wild and the geese (who are not so wild), they followed me, curious and needy as ever.



They provide good and noisy company while foraging.


Still life of mint avec goose.

Based on the beautiful, thick and creamy nature of crème fraîche, a cultured cream not unlike sour cream but not quite so sour and quite a bit creamier, I decided to combine its star power with my vibrant mango in a panna cotta or a free standing mango lassi, my favorite Indian refreshment.  Top with mint and you'll have a fleeting reminder of summer melting on your tongue moments before Frankenstorm hits.

It's simple, fast and will be ready to consume before the power goes out.

Be safe, sweet people up and down the East Coast.



The VCCFMLPC (Vermont Creamery Crème Fraîche Mango Lassi Panna Cotta)

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 (8 ounce) container crème fraîche, at room temperature
1/2 cup milk
3/4 cup mango purée, divided (you can substitute other purées but be careful to steer away from fruits with bromelain like pineapple, papaya or passion fruit.  Unless the purée is well heat treated, the active bromelain will keep the gelatin from setting)
1/2 cup sugar
1 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin
a generous pinch salt
a few sprigs of fresh mint

PROCEDURE

•In a heavy saucepan, combine the heavy cream, the milk, 1/2 cup of the mango puree and the salt and bring to a simmer over medium low heat.

•Pour the remaining 1/4 cup of mango puree in a shallow bowl and sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the top of the puree.  Allow to sit until the gelatin appears saturated and wet.

•Spray 12 small tea cups with a very light coating of non-stick cooking spray.  Arrange the cups on a sheet pan.



•Once the heavy cream mixture has come to a simmer, immediately stir in the crème fraîche until it's completely melted.  Immediately add the mango/gelatin mixture and stir until the gelatin has completely melted.

•Divide the liquid evenly among the 12 cups, a scant 1/2 cup in each cup.

•Refrigerate until set, at least 4 hour or overnight.

•To unmold, gently run a very thin pairing knife close along the edge of the cup and the panna cotta, turn upside down right over a serving platter or a small plate and gently tap the cup against the plate until it releases.

The Queen of Maple: Maple Kouign Amann

I've been receiving shipments of butter.  Boxes.  Pounds.  Through express mail.  Butter.

Those who know that I'm a Vermonter may conclude that I'm simply so far removed from civilization that I require this mode of churned delivery.  Not so.

The butter in question is a new product from Vermont Creamery, a gloriously creamy butter laced with maple and sea salt.  Let me just let you luxuriate in that splendiferous marriage of goodness:  Vermont Creamery butter.  Maple.  Sea salt.  Are you finished basking in the sweet glory?  No?  Take your time.  I'll wait.


When reaping such a boon, the proper course of action is to cut into a slab of that butter and smear it on a warm slice of fresh bread immediately.  This done, the recipient of said bounty has to tear herself away from bread and super duper butter and apply herself to experiment with her gift from the creamery goddesses.


I've made quite a few beautiful things with this butter now (hence the multiple shipments.  "Uh, hi, it's Gesine.  Yeah, about that butter you sent me?  It's gone."  Butter People:  "But you only received your 4 pounds today.")  But the very first pastry that demanded a Maple Sea Salt makeover was that treat made of butter and sweetness, the Kouign Amann, that buttery, layered, sugary crisp Breton butter cake.



MAPLE KOUIGN AMANN
(makes 15)

INGREDIENTS

For the dough:

5 cups all purpose flour
2 cups water
1/4 cup maple syrup
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 packets instant yeast (I use Red Star Platinum yeast)

For the Butter Block:

1 pound Vermont Creamery Maple Sea Salt Butter, room temperature

To assemble:

2 cups granulated sugar
(or 1 cup granulated sugar and 1 cup maple sugar (not syrup), stirred together)

PROCEDURE

For the dough:

•In the bowl of a stand mixer fit with the hook attachment add 1 1/2 cups of the water and maple syrup.  In a small bowl, stir together the flour, yeast and salt.  Add the flour mixture to the water/ maple.  Mix on slow until the dough just comes together but is still shaggy.  If the dough looks dry, continue mixing on low, adding a tablespoon at a time of water until a firm dough forms.  Mix until you have a very shiny, smooth dough that pulls away from the sides of the bowl.  About 10 to 15 minutes of mixing.

Spray and cover with plastic wrap to proof.

•Proof the dough:  Transfer the dough to a bowl sprayed with non-stick cooking spray.  Spray the top with non-stick spray.  Cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm area of your kitchen until the dough doubles in size, about an hour.

Doubled in size.  Wanna know how to track the size?  Take a picture of the dough when you first put it away to rise and consult it to compare and contrast with your growing blob.
•When you have 20 minutes left to the proof, make the butter block:

•Place the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fit with the paddle attachment.  Mix until the butter is smooth but don't mix so long that the butter starts to melt.

Pat the butter into a rough rectangle on a piece of parchment Fold your parchment over the butter block to form a little package.
Tape the seams to secure the edges.
•Transfer the butter to a piece of parchment and pat into a rectangle approximately 8" x 11".  Fold the parchment over to create a secure package and tape the seams down.  Turn the packet over and, using a rolling pin, roll the butter into a neat and even rectangle, making sure to get the butter into all the corners.  Refrigerate for 10 to 20 minutes but no more.  ***you want to be able to bend the butter block without it cracking but it should still be cool enough that you can easily peel the parchment off the butter block.
Make sure to roll the butter into the edges!
•Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface.  Roll the dough into a rough rectangle approximately 12" x 24".  Unwrap the butter block and place on one half of the dough and fold the second half of the dough over the butter to lock the butter end.  Press the edges to seal the butter in.

Place butter on one side. Lock in the dough.

•Move the little dough/butter packet aside and clean your work surface of flour.  Sprinkle your work surface with 1/4 cup of sugar (or the maple/granulated mixture).  Place the dough on top, the longest side facing you, and sprinkle the top of the dough with 1/4 cup of sugar.  Roll the dough into a rough 12 x 18 inch rectangle.  Fold one short half towards the middle and the second half over the 1st, as if you were folding a business letter (this is called a single fold or letter fold).

Sprinkle surface and top with sugar.
Fold one side towards the middle.

Fold second side over, like you're fold a business letter.
•Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

•Sprinkle your work surface with 1/4 cup of sugar and place the dough on top of the sugar and sprinkle the top with 1/4 cup more sugar.  Roll into a 12 x 18 inch rectangle and make another single/ letter fold.  Cover with plastic wrap.  Refrigerate for 45 minutes.  While you allow the dough to rest, preheat your oven to 400º.

•Sprinkle your work surface with 1/4 cup of sugar and place your dough onto the sugared surface.  Sprinkle the top with another 1/4 cup and roll into a rough, slightly larger than 25" x 15"rectangle (***you may notice that your dough is weeping.  That's normal, just the sugar interacting with the dough).  Cut the dough into 15 even squares with a very sharp knife.  Fold each corner of a square towards the middle and press to form a smaller square.  Place your Kouigns a few inches apart and sprinkle with the remaining sugar.




•Bake for 20 minutes or until the pastries are deep, golden brown.  Serve with ice cream!  Or not.