Stephanie Dickison's Blog, page 33
April 29, 2021
OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News April 29-May 5, 2021
Photo courtesy of Chiang Rai.
My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/popups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow
🕒 12 min read
The 25 arrivals below illustrate the intense creativity going on right now, IRL restaurants and their virtual counterparts.
Combined with last week’s findings, you’ve got 50 new destinations to discover in person and from the couch. And you didn’t think you had anything going on this weekend.
Psst. If you haven’t already subscribed to the newsletter, now’s the time. Get The Tip Off, a sneak peek at the upcoming OPEN/CLOSED (because who doesn’t want to be the first to know?), and fab deals and special offers from restaurants and local businesses (because who doesn’t want to save money?), all exclusive to subscribers. Exciting announcements coming soon!
And for all those celebrating this weekend, Happy Easter.
Here’s the very latest:
OPEN
Jonesing for croissants? Virtual patisserie The Bakery Dealer will hook you up. Choose from Signature Almond, Strawberry Shortcake, Walnut Carrot Cake, and this month’s feature: Almond Custard Tart Croissant.
Bobacha arrived in the GTA around this time last year. The bubble tea café recently expanded to Etobicoke (675 The Queensway) with a lineup of signature beverages and desserts.
If the name Chiang Rai Thai Kitchen sounds familiar, you might know their Markham spot that debuted in 2019. An outpost just touched down in North York (2070 Avenue Rd.). Did you know? Chiang Rai is the sister eatery to Chiang Mai and Imm Thai Kitchen.
CoCo Fresh Tea & Juice boasts 4500 locations around the world. Make that 4501. An outpost in Etobicoke (180 Lake Shore Blvd. W., Unit 6) softly opened Tuesday.
This one’s a bit of a matryoshka sitch, so bear with me. Chef Javier Barraza’s latest ghost kitchen, Flor Mexicana, focuses on Mexican style street food inspired by Leonor. This follows sourdough pizza concept Pizza Azul that launched at the end of last year, and BirdBox Toronto - a franchise of Bird Box London two months prior. All ventures are available in Lula Lounge (1585 Dundas St W.), which is temporarily closed but live online - listen to the latest Lulaworld Records release and dance up a storm in the living room.
From the fine folks of Union Restaurant and Côte de Boeuf comes Heart's Tavern and Bar (235334 Grey Road 13) in Kimberley, Grey County, two hours north of the city. They’re currently open for takeout, with lots of great wine and beer.
A second Hey Wey! just landed at Dufferin and St. Clair (1165 St. Clair Ave. W.) with rich stews (Beef Alambre, Chicken Tinga, Pineapple Pork, Chorizo with Potatoes, Rojas con Crema), Gorditas, Tacquitos Dorados, Tacos de Guisado, Quesadillas, and Tres Leches Cake.
From cigkofte and sujuk to kadayif and mulberry molasses, Turkish grocery store Home Sweet Home in North York (3715 Keele St.), has all your pantry needs.
It’s been a busy year for Kibo Sushi House. The latest satellite is smack-dab in CityPlace, across from Rogers Centre (325 Bremner Blvd.).
Kitaya is a li’l haven of sushi, green tea soft serve, mochi, croffles and uni. Where to find this sweet Japanese takeout spot? Inside C&C Supermarket (888 Don Mills Rd. Unit 100), of all places.
Grocery shopping can be such a chore these days. Change it up with prepared foods and pantry items from Oakville’s Le Dome Fine Foods (1173 North Service Rd. E.).
Macao’s BBQ (5418 Yonge St., Unit 19) in North York has a fantastic lineup, including: BBQ Chashu, Soy Sauce Tofu, Roasted Duck, Marinated Black Fungus, Thai Style Chicken Feet, and Build Your Own Scallion Oil Lo Mein.
Family owned and operated Mi Gusto Es debuted February 1 in York (1269 Weston Rd.). The menu features Mexican kits (Albondigas, Enchiladas, Pastor, Sopes, Pambazo, Birria and Barbacoa $28-$38) and weekly specials. (this week: Beef and Pork Meatballs in Chipotle Tomato Sauce, accompanied by pot beans.) Items are vacuum sealed to guarantee freshness - and allows you to consume dishes throughout the week. Pickups are on Fridays, with delivery on Saturdays.
While you’ll have to wait a while longer to get behind the controls of Mortal Kombat or Street Fighter II at arcade/bar FreePlay (300 College St.), you can get your hands on Montreal smoked meat sandos – deconstructed or ready to eat piled high handhelds – and poutine via MTL Smoked. Meat is trimmed, aged and smoked in Montreal, then steamed and served here in the 6ix.
Caribbean restaurant On The Move Fresh Kitchen just landed in Etobicoke (715 The Queensway).
O’SOMAE Cafe at Broadview and Gerrard (357 Broadview Ave.) specializes in brunch boxes (Avocado Toast $11, Chicken & Waffles $16, Duck Confit Waffles $16) in addition to a smattering of bennies and poutine. Doors opened Tuesday.
Missing Costa Rico? Walter, a cook at a Mexican restaurant, launched Pastry Pura Vida, a Costa Rican stuffed puff pastry biz with wife Raquel, after work slowed due to the pandemic. Choose from savoury selections including Enchilada (spicy potato), Mushroom, Chicken, and Palmito (palm hearts), ready to eat desserts (Tres Leches, Tamal de Maicena), and ready to bake Puff Pastry - available on its own or stuffed with your choice of guava, pineapple, or blueberry.
PicSnic is a timely venture by Eileen Taylor, who went to culinary school in Italy for five years, and partner Giuseppe Langella. Their picnic dining experiences for two includes a 3-course meal (Traditional, Vegetarian or Vegan) prepared in a commercial kitchen and non-alcoholic beverages delivered in a wicker picnic basket with extra-large waterproof blanket at a predetermined date, time and park. You choose your meal duration (up to three hours), and at the end, they come pick up the basket and blanket.
PizzaForno launched long before the pandemic, but the 24/7 contactless automated pizzerias found in gas stations, hospitals, malls, campuses, and on street corners across Canada and now the U.S., fits in with the current landscape. Head to the corner of King and Sherbourne (225 King St. E.) for their newest arrival churning out pies in under three minutes.
Radar alert: Make room in the freezer for Rex’s Premium Ice Cream small batch pints. Orders open up on Saturdays, but flavours sell out quickly. It’s no wonder with concoctions such as Caramel Lotus, Somali Chai, Krispy Kreme, and Blueberry Pancake.
Assaad Elsibai’s Lebanese desserts are a favourite amongst the fooderati, but SweetSado has been years in the making. The self-taught pastry chef came to Canada after working as a nurse in Lebanon for 16 years, to pursue his dream of baking. “I’ve always had a passion for cooking and baking, And loved watching my mom and dad bake delicious Lebanese dishes and desserts from scratch,” he says. “I learned from them, and started experimenting by creating fusion recipes myself either through ingredients or decorating and shaping the desserts, but keeping the taste and flavour as authentic as possible.”Pro tip: Act fast, as these beauts sell out almost immediately. Bonus: Packaging is done by local TV host and designer Steven Sabados.
Trainwreck Burgers is a new popup happening Mondays at Ecuadorian restaurant Cocina de Doña Julia (1545 Dupont St.). The Junction spot by Alex and husband Chris who studied at a culinary school, focuses on classic burgers, and one topped tortilla chips and queso cheese. Up next: a waffle burger and burger in a bag. Currently open on Mondays, plans are to extend to the rest of the week.
Shop a variety of baked goods including pide, simit, and sourdough at Trillium Bakery, operating out of Home Sweet Home (see above) in North York.
EVENTS
From the folks behind Le Burger Week and La Poutine Week comes La Pizza Week. Choose from 12 pies in the 6ix, as well as from surrounding areas, starting Saturday.
Ration Burger BBQ popups at happening this weekend at Strange Love Cafe (101 Spadina Ave.) and Mascot Brewery (220 King St.).
Taste of Mississauga continues until May 10.
NEWS
Rocco Mastrangelo Sr., founder of Cafe Diplomatico, passed away on Monday. The restaurant will remain closed until Friday at 3pm.
A number of BIAs have banded together to advocate on behalf of all Toronto small and medium sized businesses to provincial leaders, including Bloorcourt, Leslieville, Riverside, Queen Street West, and West Queen West.
Toronto City Councillor Josh Matlow gave it his all, but his bid to allow drinks in park just for the summer, was shot down.
Great news. After possibly having to close and relocate, the lease for Cici’s Pizza in Parkdale has been extended for two years.
Mayor John Tory confirmed yesterday CaféTO curb lane installations will begin May 8.
American chain Wingstop is adding 100 restos north of the border.
ICYMI
Get to know Shiela Labao and Miguel Hernandez, the dream team behind the The New Pie Company’s epic desserts (PB&J, Caramel Popcorn, Banana Fosters, Canadian Butter Tart) and feast your eyes on their latest pie! - in this week’s At The Pass.
***
Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.
Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.
Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your menu, bottle shop, upcoming patio, but you’re on a budget? We can help. *Prices have been reduced to help local businesses during this time. Limited space available.
Please support local businesses whenever possible.
Reach foodies directly. Advertise with Toronto Restaurants. Space is limited.
April 24, 2021
At The Pass with Shiela Labao and Miguel Hernandez
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.
🕒 8 min read
Currently
Shiela Labao - Head Baker/Co-Owner at The New Pie Company, Office and HR Manager elsewhere
Miguel Hernandez - Baker/Co-Owner The New Pie Company
Formerly
This is our first foray into the food industry, so we don’t have past work experiences.
Favourite dish to make right now
SL: I’m doing a deep dive to Filipino cuisine lately and I’ve resurrected my Grandmother’s Sinigang na Hipon recipe -. It’s a soup with a sour tamarind base broth, okras, snake beans, taro root, tomatoes, and shrimp. It’s incredibly satisfying!
MH: Crispy pan seared wild mushrooms finished with butter, garlic and rosemary, served on top of arugula with shaved pecorino and some lemon juice squeezed, on top. It's fresh and simple.
Last cookbook purchase
SL: Pie for Everyone by Petey Paredez
MH: American Sfoglino by Evan Funke and Katie Parla
Have you read it/tried any recipes
SL: Not yet. She has many amazing summer fruit pie recipes so I’m waiting for the warmer season.
MH: Read it all, and tried the basic flour and water dough recipe. Hand rolling pasta is hard AF. And It gave me a lot of respect for what Chef Evan Funke does.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
SL: Beets. I’ve tried so many different dishes but I just can’t convince my brain that it tastes delicious.
MH: I love all food, but anything gimmicky or over the top is a “No” for me.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
SL: We need more pies on dessert menus!
MH: Mushrooms! I love cooking with mushrooms and would love to see them used in as many ways as possible.
Biggest influences
SL: Chef-wise: Christina Tosi. I love how playful her dishes are and I relate to her way of reaching into flavours from her childhood memories and recreating them. Also my grandmother, Angela - I used to go with her to the wet market. She introduced me to so many flavours and the joy of making food.
MH: Anyone who has been able to pursue their dreams and passions. Especially those who were able to persevere through this dumpster fire of a year.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
SL: I’d be happy eating at any of Nancy Silverton’s restaurants!
MH: Probably a small ramen shop tucked away in some random laneway or back alley in Japan.
Introducing Orange Honey Pie. Cardamom butter crust, orange and honey filling with candied oranges and cardamom syrup drizzle.
Last thing you ate
SL: A handful of sour key candies while listening to my boyfriend say that I may have a sugar addiction.
MH: Broccoli and hummus.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
SL: Butter, heavy cream, and eggs.
MH: Anchovy fillets in oil, tomato paste in a squeeze tube, and butter!
Guilty pleasure
SL: A day to myself - sitting and drinking coffee at my own pace in a coffee shop, followed by a nail appointment, and then a shopping stroll on Queen W. I’m dreaming of the day this will happen again.
MH: I can inhale an entire box of PC White Cheddar Deluxe Macaroni & Cheese Dinner. And I have... on several occasions.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
SL: Côte de Boeuf’s little wine bar, Campechano, Pho Rùa Vàng Golden Turtle Restaurant
MH: So many to choose from! If I had to pick the first three that come to mind: Ramen Isshin, Golden Turtle, Rosewood Asian Cuisine. (Bonus: Maizal. Shoutout to Ivan Wadgymar for making the best tortillas in the city!)
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
SL: Pretty Ugly (RIP!), Paradise Grapevine, and The Boat for some good dancing.
MH: Paradise Grapevine, Happy Coffee & Wine, The Rhino.
Go-to drink
SL: Vodka Soda on dancy nights and Bourbon on the rocks on quiet nights.
MH: A crisp cold Miller High Life.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
SL: I think I’m a little micro manager in the kitchen because I’ve always baked by myself, but now that I’m working with Miguel, I’m really trying to stay back and relax.
MH: Using way more dishes than I probably need to make a meal.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
SL: I always try to figure out the “why” when it comes to ingredients and technique. When you know the science behind the recipe, you’ll be able to manipulate it properly.
MH: Adapting to things on the fly. Maybe I forgot to get a certain ingredient, or decided to change something last minute because the dish wasn't tasting right.
Hidden talent
SL: I don’t need a knife to peel and eat a whole ripe mango. Pretty proud of that one.
MH: I can remember and recite a lot of rap lyrics and Simpson's quotes
Best career advice you ever received
SL: “Communicate truthfully and respectfully” Literally one of the values we have at my current job. It applies to everything in life. Easy to say, but super hard to do. I tend to sugarcoat things, but I learned that people appreciate when you’re transparent but also kind.
MH: Life is full opportunities to learn something new, if you're willing to take them. - My Dad
Worst career advice you ever received
SL: I can’t think of any bad advice tbh.
MH: I try not to listen to negative people.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
SL: Read, research, talk to people. It’s tempting to get carried away, especially if you’re doing something you’re very passionate about. But there’s nothing wrong with taking your time, planning accordingly and making sure you have a financial plan and goal on paper, and an exit strategy!
MH: Same thing my dad tells me. " Life is full opportunities to learn something new, if you're willing to take them."
In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration.
To keep up to date, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.
April 22, 2021
OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News April 22-28, 2021
My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/popups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow
🕒 13 min read
This week might have felt like a long one, but I could have used more time - my 25 findings below are just the beginning, so stay tuned. I’ve got lots more to come.
p.s. If you haven’t signed up for the TR newsletter yet, do it now. This week’s edition includes an exclusive discount for subscribers to use at a brand new restaurant - with more exciting offers, deals, and giveaways to follow. You don’t want to miss it!
Here’s the very latest:
OPEN
I let you in on Asukal last month. Starting Tuesday, the bakery’s teaming up with chef Hiram Sales’ Bunso for an exciting Filipino pop-up (420 Queen St. W.) It’s on until May 1, but you really should pre-order to avoid disappointment.
Luca Lanzafame and Luli Lavdari met working at Buca. The restaurant manager and assistant general manager were laid off when the pandemic hit in March. Sharing a passion for food in general, they both enjoyed cooking. “Growing up in Italy, fresh pasta it's always been a big part of our life, Luca says. “Lots of our friends gave very good feedback when we made pasta for them, so we decided to launch Back To The Pasta.” The duo offers a selection of homemade pastas and sauces for delivery in Toronto. Currently there’s Hand Cut Tagliatelle ($10), Mortadella & Rapini Ravioli ($14), Gluten-Free Spaghetti ($13) ready to bake pastas (Prawn & Zucchini Lasagna $20/$40), and this week’s special: Asian Pear, Apple & Sicilian Pecorino Doppi ($30) with herb infused brown butter and walnuts.
In need of a getaway? Chef Erwin Joaquin’s evocative Polynesian fare transports you to the island state. Get in on his Big E Hawaiian Grinds prix fixe menu including Kona Coffee Chicken Spring Rolls, Kalua Pig and Hawaiian Butter Mochi. There are a la carte options too, such as Spam Musubi and Salmon Poke. Orders must be in by tomorrow noon.
Chachu's (41 Lebovic Ave.) is serving up paratha rolls, pulao and traditional peshawari kebab in Scarborough. Find them in a spot shared with Avengers Burger in the Lebovic Food Court. Bonus: The Pakistani street food eatery is 100 per cent halal and open until 4am six days a week, helping satisfy those late night cravings.
There’s been a lot of movement in Parkdale lately. The newest arrival? A second outpost of popular taqueria Gus Tacos (1533 Queen St. W.). Doors opened Saturday.
Javitri Indian Cuisine (1708 Eglinton Ave. W., 647-571-9745) in York has a phenomenal lineup that holds up well for takeout including Lasooni Cauliflower, Paneer Butter Masala, Lamb Roganjosh, Goat Biryani, and Chilli Garlic Naan.
I was the first to tell you about chef Jon Klip’s Toronto Bento. So natch I had to let you in on this: Ordering opens tomorrow for Sara Restaurant’s You, Me + Sara collab happening April 30-May 1. A limited number of bentos ($75 ) will be available, so act fast.
Taiwanese bakery La Petite Colline (3355 Steeles Ave. E., Unit C5-6) has got you for a lot of drool-inducers: Nama Shokupan, Scallion Buns, Short Rib Omurice, Katsu Curry, Basque Burnt Cheesecake and Breakfast Toast – an epic creation stuffed with ham and swiss cheese, sprinkled with melted cheese and onions across the top.
There aren’t nearly enough Hakka restaurants downtown. So Mannat Indian Hakka and Bar (839 College St.) at College and Ossington (where Southern Accent was), “here to burst your taste buds with flavour,” is a welcome addition. Bonus: Save 10 per cent on takeout orders Monday-Thursday.
Mess Hall is launching a Sweet Shop Pop Up (1386 Gerrard St. E., Unit 4) featuring independent chefs and small-batch bakers Saturday 10am-1pm. Shop gourmet brownies, cookies, grazing boxes, butter tarts, alfajores, cakes, homemade jams, power bites, and chocolates from Butter and Spice Bakeshop, Cassis Bake, Do Good Donuts, Fresca Dining, The Graze Anatomy, Hot Shot Chocolate, Mom Flavor Inc., and Pistacia Bakery.
It’s no surprise pre-orders for Mini Konbini, a Japanese convenience store themed pop-up shop featuring katsu sandos, next Friday are already sold out. (More than a week is not nearly enough notice in the age of Insta.) That said, there’s limited availability for walk-ins (Tallboys 838 Bloor St. W.) from 3pm-6pm. All you can do is try. Cash only.
Yonge and Eglinton is the latest nabe for Monkey Sushi (75 Eglinton Ave. E.).
Muddy Crops is back for the season with their renowned Ontario grown produce and preserves, in a new home nestled in the Stockyards District (100 Symes Rd., Unit 112). Stay tuned. I can’t wait for No Hassle Boxes.
It's been a week - and it's only Thursday. Philly Cheesesteaks and Shawarma Poutine from Mr. Hummus (1808 Eglinton Ave. W., 416-546-6382) in York will put things right.
The New Pie Company by chef Shiela Labao and Miguel Hernandez is popping up at Lit Espresso 221 Roncesvalles Ave.) on May 1, with PB Treats, Banana Foster, and Buko Pies. Pre-ordering starts this Sunday at noon and are sure to sell out fast, so act fast.
Not Just Butter Chicken (1307 Danforth Ave.) at Danforth and Greenwood is the sixth venture by chef/owner Gurinder Bedi (Butter Chicken Factory). On the menu: Delhi street style appetizers, tandoori, tikkas and kababs, traditional curries, biryanis, and of course butter chicken.
Pantry by The Food Dudes has expanded again, this time inside Columbus Centre (901 Lawrence Ave. W.) located on the Villa Charities campus. Doors opened yesterday.
Ration Snacks by Ration Food Lab touched down at The Beverley Hotel (335 Queen St W.) earlier this year. Their latest on-site venture: bottle shop Pour Taste.
Rico Burrito has kept me on my toes in 2021, launching five locations in a matter of weeks. So their latest in the downtown core (1075 Bay St.) is par for the course.
Saaviche is a family owned Ecuadorian-style ceviche delivery only restaurant. It all started because Frank Saa, who arrived in Canada in the ‘70s, missed his Ecuadorian culture so much, he began making ceviche for his family. It wasn’t long before Pamela, Ruth, and David got involved. Two varieties - shrimp, vegan/vegetarian – are currently available, with more in the works, prepared by food handler certified members in a commercial kitchen. Delivery to the GTA is free for a limited time.
Shanghai Alley Gourmet (191 Lakeshore Rd. E.) in Oakville specializes in Shanghainese-style sang ji bao, xiao long bao and yangchun noodles, in addition to an array of dim sum and other enticing fare. Warning: Perusing the lengthy menu to consider your options will cause hunger pangs - West Lake Minced Beef Soup ($6.95), Mixed Mushroom Stir-Fried Sweet Potato Noodles ($16.99), Mapo Tofu ($20.99), Salt & Pepper Squid ($20.99) … See what I mean?
Shatter Abbas, established 2011, landed at Yonge and St. Clair (1440 Yonge St.), in Mean Bao’s former digs. This marks the fifth outpost for the local Persian restaurant chain.
Calling all empanada fans: Super Empanada (922 Queen St. W.) at Queen and Shaw kicks off tomorrow with six selections – Spicy Beef, Chicken & Olive, Ham & Cheese, Corn & Spinach, Provoleta & Mushroom, Caprese – and three desserts.
The city’s long been in need of more Georgian restaurants. So the arrival of Tiflisi (1970 Queen St. E.) in The Beach last weekend is reason to celebrate - as is their current offer: 10 per cent off the entire menu, including pkhali, kuchmachi, khachapuri, khinkali, and chashushuli.
I told you all about the first Triple O’s last month. The follow up destination for burgers, fries, and shakes debuted in Vaughan (7990 Highway 27) Monday.
CLOSED
Not ideal, especially when the szn’s just getting underway, Brett’s Ice Cream (1698 Queen St. E.) at Queen and Kingston Rd. shuttered this weekend, due to the building scheduled for demolition. Watch this space for their new addy.
Chef Hyun Jung Kim’s fine dining restaurant Core Restaurant (896 Queen St. E.), in Leslieville, that transformed to a Korean kitchen during the pandemic, has closed - but not for long. Psst, it’s reopening as Core Bubble Tea. I’ll have all the deets for you soon.
You know I don’t write about the big fast food chains unless it’s warranted. Tim Hortons Innovation Café (130 King St. W.) arrived in the Financial District last summer, but despite the design (“one of a kind”) and exclusive items (Draft Lattes, Mexico Chiapas Iced Latte Brown Butter and Sea Salt Dream Doughnut, Italian Muffuletta Sandwich, Lobster Bisque), the one-off shuttered last week.
EVENTS
Taste of Mississauga is on until May 10.
NEWS
Chef Nelson Fernandez, who worked in many Toronto restaurants including the buzzy (and long closed) Nyood Restaurant and Lounge, has passed away.
The country’s largest restaurant group says the industry requires “sector-specific support” in order to recover.
I alerted you to news of Ontario’s Globally Local’s first Toronto location and opening back in 2019. Canada’s first vegan fast food restaurant, is now the world’s first vegan fast food resto to go public.
Earlier this week. I wrote about eating in cars. August 8 took the concept to the next level with an All You Can Eat Drive-In.
The government says paid sick days are coming, but places such as Krave Coffee are doing it on their own.
Bubble tea without tapioca? Brace yourself, the North American boba pearl shortage has reached Canada.
ICYMI
Small operations like Randy's Patties are putting out unbelievable, unforgettable grub.
With the current stay-at-home orders in effect, you’re likely spending more time at the stove. Elevate your stir-fry game with chef Nuit Regular’s enticing Pad Gra Prow, a best seller at PAI one of the renowned Thai restaurants she and husband Jeff own and operate. Learn how to recreate the simple, yet deeply satisfying dish in this month’s Secret Recipe.
Please support local businesses whenever possible.
* * *
Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the OPEN/CLOSED.
Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.
Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your Promote your menu, bottle shop, upcoming patio, but you’re on a budget? We can help.
Reach foodies directly. Advertise with Toronto Restaurants. Space is limited.
April 20, 2021
Secret Recipe: PAI's Pad Gra Prow
Pad Gra Prow. Photo by Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriott.
Secret Recipe is an ongoing series where Toronto’s top chefs reveal their closely guarded, drool-inducing restaurant recipes to be recreated by you at home.
🕒 8 min read
Chef Nuit Regular’s northern Thai cuisine has been recognized by the government of Thailand with their prestigious ‘Thai Select Premium’ designation for its authenticity. Thus, it’s no wonder Pad Gra Prow, a popular dish in Thailand, happens to be a best seller at PAI, one of the renowned Thai restaurants she and husband Jeff own and operate.
The fragrant pork stir-fry topped with a crispy egg boasts rich flavours from oyster and soy sauces, delivering an umami depth, while chilies add an exhilarating kick. But it’s the holy basil that make this dish a standout. Also known as tulsi, holy basil* boasts a number of health benefits including boosting your immune system, and delivers a unique flavour profile - strong and peppery, with notes of cloves.
Chef Nuit shares the recipe below. It’s also featured in her new cookbook Kiin: Recipes and Stories from Northern Thailand.
It’s a wonderfully straightforward dish that elevates your usual stir-fry game and can be recreated any time of day, including as a enticing savoury option for breakfast or brunch. With travel plans currently on hold, it brings a bit of northern Thailand home. And on the days you’re not up to making it, place an order for pickup or delivery. Win-win.
Holy Basil Stir-Fry / Pad Gra Prow
Serves 2
This is one of the most popular stir-fry dishes in Thailand. It is so simple to make and can be so satisfying when done right. Each spoonful explodes with flavour and aroma from the holy basil, complemented by the deep-fried egg on top. The runny yolk pours down over the rice, adding a creamy texture and flavour. (I like to cook the eggs one at a time so the edges get crispy and to ensure they do not stick together.) Add in the holy basil aroma, and it is a dish that pleases on many levels.
You can replace the ground pork with beef, chicken, shrimp, or tofu. Adding the sauce before the pork is fully cooked ensures that the meat absorbs more of its flavour. In Thailand, we have access to fresh holy basil year round. Imported basil travels a long way and is often not as fresh. To get the most out of your basil, just before adding it to the wok, hold the bunch in your hand and break the leaves using your fingers to release their oils and fragrance.
¼ cup + 3 tablespoons sunflower oil, divided
2 eggs, cracked individually into 2 small bowls
1 tablespoon Thai oyster sauce 1 tablespoon thin soy sauce
1 tablespoon sweet soy sauce 1½ teaspoons Thai fish sauce
2 tablespoons minced unpeeled Thai garlic or peeled regular garlic
½ teaspoon minced fresh red bird’s eye chili (optional)
1 pound (450 g) regular ground pork (about 2 cups)
1 fresh red spur chili, cut in half crosswise, seeded and julienned
½ white onion, cut lengthwise into ¼-inch strips
1 cup packed fresh holy basil leaves
½ teaspoon white pepper (preferably) or black pepper
For serving
2 cups Steamed Jasmine Rice
1 to 2 tablespoons Chili Fish Sauce (recipe follows)
1. To fry the eggs: Heat a medium wok or small skillet over high heat for 2 minutes. Add ¼ cup of the sunflower oil. Slowly drop 1 egg into the oil, decrease the heat to medium, and fry until the outer edges of the egg white turn crispy and brown, about 1 minute. Using a flat, nonstick spatula, slowly slide it under the deep-fried egg and scrape against the bottom of the wok. This will help prevent the egg from sticking to the wok and breaking the yolk. Transfer the fried egg to a plate lined with paper towel. Repeat to cook the second egg. Set aside.
2. To make the sauce: In a small bowl, stir together the oyster sauce, thin soy sauce, sweet soy sauce, and fish sauce. Set aside.
3. Heat a large wok or skillet over high heat for 2 minutes. This will allow the wok to expand and help transfer the heat well during cooking and also prevents the food from sticking to the bottom. Remove from the heat so the garlic doesn’t burn. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons sunflower oil, minced garlic, and red bird’s eye chili (if using) and cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is fragrant, 10 to 20 seconds. Add the ground pork, return the wok over high heat, and sauté for 1 minute, spreading the pork out to ensure the meat touches as much of the hot pan as possible.
4. Stir in the sauce. Continue to sauté for 2 minutes. Add the red spur chili and onion, stir, and cook for another minute. Using your hands, tear the holy basil leaves into the wok. Stir and cook for another minute or until the basil starts to soften and turn dark green. Sprinkle in the white pepper. Remove from the heat.
5. To serve, divide the steamed jasmine rice between 2 plates and spread it out. Place the stir-fried holy basil on top of the rice. If there is extra oil in the wok, pour some on top of the rice. It is full of flavour! Place deep-fried egg on top of the rice. Serve with chili fish sauce.
Chili Fish Sauce / Nam Prik Nam Pla
Makes ½ cup
This is a classic Thai condiment that is a staple of Thai meals. It goes with so many dishes, and is frequently found in the middle of the table for adding a bit of spice to our food. It is my favourite accompaniment with almost any Thai dish. The diverse flavour profile is a perfect, yet simple, balance of fish sauce, lime, garlic, and chili. Each bite packs a small punch of flavour and amazing texture.
3 tablespoons Thai fish sauce 2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon Thai cane sugar
½ teaspoon minced unpeeled Thai garlic or peeled regular garlic
¼ cup fresh lime juice
10 to 15 fresh green bird’s eye chilies, thinly sliced crosswise
5 fresh red bird‘s eye chilies, thinly sliced crosswise
1 lime wedge, thinly sliced
1. In a small bowl, stir together the fish sauce, water, cane sugar, and garlic, until the sugar has fully dissolved. Add the lime juice, chilies, and lime and mix well. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.
*Holy basil in available in select Asian supermarkets.
PAI Downtown
18 Duncan St.
416-901-4724
PAI Uptown
2335 Yonge St.
416-901-4724
PAI at Kitchenhub - Etobicoke
935 The Queensway
416-551-4500
Discover other Secret Recipes from top restaurants and chefs across the GTA.
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Recipe excerpted from Kiin by Nuit Regular. Copyright © 2020 by Nuit Regular. Photography copyright © 2020 by Michael Graydon and Nikole Herriott. Published by Penguin Canada, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.
April 15, 2021
OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News April 15-21, 2021
Photo courtesy of Sakana-Ya, Rolls & Rice
My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/popups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow
🕒 10.5 min read
This week’s 21 arrivals include some pretty exhilarating options. Which is exactly what’s needed while stay-at-home orders are in full effect. So as many celebrate Canada Takeout Day today, I ask that you please support small, local businesses as often as possible.
And to all those celebrating - Happy Gudi Padwa, Baisakh, and Ramadan Mubarak to you and your loved ones.
Aaaaand stay tuned – more news ahead in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the TR newsletter.
In the meantime, here’s the very latest:
OPEN
Hot tip: add these must-have pantry items to your shopping list this week. avec Jayden, a new line of Korean products by Jayden - junior sous chef at top Toronto restaurant Richmond Station - and his wife Ellen, wasn’t developed to follow any trend. “The more I put myself in this industry, “ says, “the more I want to introduce and share the flavour of my back home.” The lineup is small, for now. “We have always respected classic and authentic foods so started couple of classic items first.” Select from kimchi (OG or Baek) and kalbi sausage - with more items being added soon. The home-based business offers pickup in the Yonge & Eglinton area.
The Backyard Smokehouse (264 Dupont St.) moved into Live Organic Food Bar’s old digs with a mix of burgers, Nashville hot chicken, and barbecue staples - brisket, ribs, mac and cheese, et al.
Radar alert: ISO out of this world cakes? Behold Boréal Gâteau’s celestial ice cream creations. And stay tuned: a brick-and-mortar spot is set to touch down in Unionville this summer.
Buono, known for their antipasti, pasta, piadina, and Milano-style pizza, expanded again. Find the third venue in Roncy (413 Roncesvalles Ave.). Buon appetito.
Three friends - Jose and chefs Shada and Steff – banded together to create Canaima Cafe (World Food Market -335 Yonge St.), an exciting new Venezuelan street food destination. While you’ll find delectable must-haves on the menu such as empanadas and arepas, may I direct your attention to their mandocas - cheesy, ripe plantain and cornmeal fried dough rings served with Venezuelan cream cheese – available fried, air-fried or frozen.
Cheongdam Restaurant (7335 Yonge St., Unit 2) in Thornhill offers endless options, but whatever you do, don’t sleep on their stunning Korean BBQ dosiraks (boxed sets). Swoon.
It’s been nearly two years since Firehouse Subs debuted in the 6ix. Parth Patel and Pradiptya Banerjee’s satellite at York Mills and Don Mills (865 York Mills Rd., Unit 6) opens Wednesday.
GG's Burgers (1681 Lakeshore Blvd E.) in Woodbine Beach launches today. On the menu: smash burgers, Nashville hot chicken sandos, patty melts, chili cheese dogs, sides, soft serve, milkshakes, turnovers, beer, and beach-friendly canned cocktails.
Tired of the usual takeout? Imlil Moroccan Cuisine (979 O’Connor Dr.) in East York has just the thing to liven things up - including your palate – with sumptuous selections, including Rice Bowl ($10), Couscous ($20), and Tajines ($16): Lamb with caramelized prunes, almonds, sesame seeds; Beef with artichokes, peas, lemons, olives; Chicken with preserved lemon and olives. Even drinks take things up a notch with offerings of fresh juice ($7) and Moroccan Tea ($2) . And don’t forget to add Moroccan sweets onto your order. Bonus: Enjoy a 25 per cent discount for takeout.
imPerfect Fresh Eats at Queen and Spadina (477 Queen St. W.) is the second healthy outpost by siblings May and Jeff Dang.
Welcome back, Jumbo Empanadas! The Chilean restaurant in Kensington Market (245 Augusta Ave.) reopened earlier this week after being closed for nearly six months due to a fire next door.
The Library Specialty Coffee softly opened their beautifully minimalist outpost yesterday, right across from Trinity Bellwoods Park (917 Queen St. W.). This is their second shop in Toronto.
Worth. The. Wait. After lengthy delays, Mascot Brewery finally kicked off their Etobicoke location (37 Advance Rd.) yesterday. The new production space (and soonish-to-be restaurant, beer garden and bottle shop) is the latest addition to the downtown Toronto brew bar and beer garden (220 King St. W.) that debuted summer ‘19.
The MoMo House’s third location – and second during the pandemic - premiered yesterday at Queen and Bathurst (685 Queen St. W.).
Calgary’s Chef Mike Pigot launched his famed Pigot’s Burger Club here in the Big Smoke yesterday in collaboration with The Heartbreak Chef’s Jerome Robinson. Pro tip: Items sold out quickly yesterday, so order early to avoid disappointment.
Psst, there’s a new secret smokehouse in the city. Get your meat sweats courtesy of Riverside Smokehouse, a southern style barbecue ghost kitchen running out of Prohibition Social House (696 Queen St. E.).
Puff Pastes (1672 St Clair Ave. W.) specializes in pastes - a handheld snack that brings together the best parts of Cornish pasties and Mexican empanadas. Visit their downtown pop-up this weekend (Fri-Sun) at King and Niagara (852 King St. W.), across from Stanley Park.
Just in time for this weekend’s warmer temps. East York’s Roll Me Up Ice Cream unveiled a new shop in Markham (75 Main St. N.) earlier this week. p.s. Get the bubble waffle.
Two words: Omakase takeaway. Okay, three more: Sakana-Ya, Rolls & Rice (Majestic City - 2900 Markham Rd., Unit H8). Chef Tan Hidekatsu, originally from Hokkaido Japan, has been in the seafood industry for over 40 years. His new stellar takeout spot offers a dizzying array of irresistible dishes, featuring freshly flown-in seafood that’s “properly handled and stored.”
SUSHI4U Japanese Restaurant (3423 Lake Shore Blvd. W., 647-344-8877) in Etobicoke does sushi, bento boxes, and udon combos, as you’d experct. But you’ll also discover Korean (bulgogi, hwe dup bap) and Hawaiian (poke bowls) fare. For a limited time, takeout orders paid with cash receive five per cent off on orders of $20 or more.
Eagle-eyed OPEN/CLOSED readers would have noticed my announcement of Tala’s final day at 294 Dundas St. W. last month. The celebrated Filipino eatery known for kamayan kits packed in a pizza box, has moved into Tinuno (31 Howard St.), their other venture, for the time being, until they find permanent digs.
CLOSED
Earlier this week, Guy and Kim Rawlings, owners of Montgomery’s (996 Queen St. W.), announced they’re taking a break after five years.
The first location of Toronto Popcorn Company (147 Baldwin St.) has shuttered after eight years. The Beaches location (1948 Queen St. E.) remains. You can also order snacks to be shipped via their website.
EVENTS
Taste of Mississauga is on until May 10.
NEWS
A Barrie restaurant’s liquor licence has been suspended after remaining open during the province’s shutdown and stay-at-home order. This comes not long after an eatery near Ottawa had its liquor licence suspended after an anti-mask event.
Over 100 people may have been exposed to COVID-19 at a restaurant in Vaughan.
Many outlets were quick to write that the "Kim's Convenience" store was up for sale this week. Unlike the show, this isn’t the end for the beloved shop after all.
Josh Matlow, City Councillor for Toronto – St. Paul’s, has done a tremendous amount of good for the city, especially during the pandemic. Earlier this week, he put forth a motion to implement “a pilot project to allow beer and wine consumption in public parks and beaches” from May to October, to mitigate people gathering indoors.
ICYMI
Riverside has changed.
When Alessandra Bustamante isn’t baking up a storm at Blackbird Bakign Co., you’ll find her just as focused on food off the clock too - making pasta from scratch, noshing on addictive snacks (salty, spicy and sweet), and grabbing takeout from some of the city’s top restaurants. Discover more in this week’s sensational At The Pass.
This week’s arrivals got you thinking about ice cream? Discover more in The Ultimate Guide to Ice Cream + Frozen Treats in Toronto/GTA.
____
Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.
Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.
Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your business without spending $$$? We can help.
Advertise with Toronto Restaurants. *Space is limited.
April 13, 2021
At The Pass with Alessandra Bustamante
Photo by Walter Homem.
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.
🕒 6 min read
Currently
Pastry Cook, Blackbird Baking Co.
Formerly
Toronto: Auberge du Pommier, Luma. London: The Goring.
Favourite dish to make right now
I was gifted a pasta extruder attachment for my stand mixer this past Christmas and I’ve been really enjoying it. So, anything involving pasta!
Last cookbook purchase
A Good Bake - The Art and Science of Making Perfect Pastries, Cakes, Cookies, Pies, and Breads at Home: A Cookbook by Melissa Weller and Carolynn Carreno
Have you read it/tried any recipes
I’ve gone through most of the book and I haven’t tried any of the recipes yet, but the Date Tahini Challah Knots are definitely something I plan on making soon.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
This is a tough one because I think if done well by the right chef, any ingredient/dish could be amazing. But my initial thoughts would be to get rid of anything overly artificial or unsustainably sourced.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
Filipino flavours in general. Sorry I can’t pick one! I’m really excited about seeing more Filipino food represented in Toronto.
Peach Melba. Auberge du Pommier 2018. Photo by Malcolm Campbell.
Biggest influences
My Abuelita for sure. She opened her bakery, Sans Rival, on an island in the Philippines in the mid-Seventies with no formal training in baking or cooking, but she was excellent at it. Now they have expanded across the Philippines.
Ferran Adrià was the first chef I’d ever read about and everything he did fascinated me. He formed my idea of what unique dining experiences were and got me interested in the industry.
Simon Blackwell, the owner of Blackbird Baking Co. I think that he’s built something really special in Toronto.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
I have a soft spot for street food and market vendors, but a restaurant I’ve been wanting to check out is Noma in Copenhagen, or even one of its popups.
Last thing you ate
Miss Vickie's Spicy Dill Pickle Kettle Cooked Potato Chips.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
Eggs, butter, and lately Marvin Palomo’s XOXO Sauce - the spicy one!
Guilty pleasure
There are SO many. I go through phases where I fixate on one thing, and right now it’s Blackbird’s Almond Croissants.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
Tinuno, Imanishi Japanese Kitchen, and Aloette are some favourites, and are on my takeout list.
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
My pre-COVID go-to spots were definitely Grey Gardens, Après Wine Bar (now Ikune by Après) and LoPan.
Go-to drink
Negroni.
Croissants by Alessandra Bustamante.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
Definitely not drinking enough water.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
Planning your next moves and helping others— be that in the dish pit, running plates to stations, cleaning. Working in a kitchen is a team sport.
Hidden talent
It wouldn’t be hidden anymore if I revealed it. ;)
Best career advice you ever received
“Stop and appreciate your accomplishments, give yourself credit for the things you’ve achieved through hard work.” - My sister, Daniella.
“Stay hungry.” - Almost every chef I’ve worked for.
Worst career advice you ever received
Don’t do it, it’s a male-dominated industry.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
Work hard, work clean, and always plot the most efficient way to work on your prep list—like starting with the most difficult or long tasks first to get them out of the way.
Travel when you can and to places you’ve never been. Take pictures, keep a notebook to write everything down (recipes, methods, tips) and be eager to try new things—the food industry is always evolving.
Most of all, love it. If you don’t, then it just becomes a job - one with long hours and sore feet.
———
In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.
For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.
Toronto Restaurants Food + Drink Guide: Riverside
🕒 3.5 min read
Designed to help you support small, local businesses while navigating the current landscape, consider these curated Neighbourhood Food + Drink Guides a kind of virtual food tour (and survival guide) featuring an array of restaurants, bars, breweries, bakeries, cafes, liquor stores, and food and bottle shops offering in-store services, takeout and delivery, in vibrant communities across the city.
RIVERSIDE EDITIONThe eastside nabe imbued with a buzzy vibrancy, simultaneously evokes a relaxed, community vibe.
Take a look:
***COVID-19 UPDATE: Businesses listed below may be currently closed due to the pandemic. Please contact establishments directly for hours of operation. ***
Animal Liberation Kitchen
Vegan Restaurant
100 Broadview Ave., Unit 202
647-232-9790
Blackbird Baking Co.
Bakery/Retail
635 Queen St. E.
416-546-2280
Bonjour Brioche
Bistro/Bakery
812 Queen St. E.
416-406-1250
Boost Bar Cafe
Cafe
672 Queen St. E.
Boxcar Social Café Bar
Café/Bar
4 Boulton Ave.
416-349-1210
Brickworks Ciderhouse
Gastropub
709 Queen St. E.
416-759-6565
The Broadview Hotel Café + Bar
106 Broadview Ave.
416-362-8439
Butchers Of Distinction
Butcher/Retail
738 Queen St. E.
416-466-9191
Chez Nous Wine Bar
Wine Bar
798 Queen St. E.
416-781-4743
The Comrade
Restaurant
758 Queen St. E.
416-778-9449
Dark Horse Espresso Bar
Coffee Shop
630 Queen St. E.
647-436-3460
Cannonball Coffee and Bar
Café/Bar
641 Queen St. E.
416-463-0500
The Civic
Canadian Restaurant
106 Broadview Ave.
416-362-8439
Eastbound Brewing Company
Brewpub/Brewery
700 Queen St. E.
416-901-1299
Est Restaurant
Restaurant & Bar
729 Queen St. E.
416-792-1000
Fortune Smoke & Gift Store
Convenience Store
736 Queen St. E.
416-465-1988
Good Karma
Indian Restaurant
689 Queen St. E.
416-551-6152
il ponte – Cucina Italiana
Italian Restaurant
625 Queen St. E.
416-778-0404
Hi-Lo
Bar
753 Queen St. E.
416-551-3459
Indian Spice Room
Indian Restaurant
717 Queen St. E.
647-349-1009
Isaan Der
Thai Restaurant
730 Queen St. E.
416-465-0100
La Carnita
Mexican Restaurant
780 Queen St. E.
647-344 0780
LAN Vietnamese Restaurant
Vietnamese Restaurant
755 Queen St. E.
647-748-7388
The John
Bar
682 + 686 Queen St. E.
416-469-1396
LCBO
Liquor Store
772 Queen St. E.
416-465-6943
Lob
Bocce Ball/Restaurant
100 Broadview Ave., Unit 101
416-583-1516
Nightowl
Bar
725 Queen St. E.
647-343-1698
The Opera House Grill & Patio
Greek Restaurant
737 Queen St. E.
647-348-7717
Pizza Nova
Pizzeria
714 Queen St. E.
416-439-0000
Pizza Pizza
Pizzeria
678-680 Queen St. E.
416-967-1111
Pizzaiolo
Pizzeria
722 Queen St. E.
416-406-3456
Prohibition Social House
Gastropub
696 Queen St. E.
416-406-2669
Riverside Burgers
Burger Restaurant
688 Queen St. E.
416-850-7026
Punjabi By Nature
Indian Restaurant
782 Queen St. E.
416-465-7777
Riverside Market
Grocery/Convenience Store
720 Queen St. E.
416-466-0821
Saulter Street Brewery
Brewery/Bottle Shop
1-31 Saulter St.
416-462-9379
Slayer Burger
Fast Food
739 Queen St. E.
416-846-3786
Starbank Convenience Mart
Convenience Store
705 Queen St. E.
416-463-4663
Subway
Sandwich Restaurant
727 Queen St. E.
647-435-8673
Tabule Middle Eastern Cuisine
Middle Eastern Restaurant
810 Queen St. E.
416-465-2500
White Lily Diner
Modern Diner
678 Queen St. E.
416-981-7800
St. John’s Bakery
Bakery
153 Broadview Ave.
416-850-7413
Sweet Jesus
Ice Cream/Dessert Shop
780 Queen St. E.
647-334-0780
Urban House Cafe
Restaurant & Bar
718 Queen St. E.
416-901-9718
Wine Rack
Wine Store
731 Queen St. E.
416-465-5454
Explore other Neighbourhood Food + Drink Guides.
Please contact establishments directly for more information. Names, addresses, phone numbers and websites subject to change.
With thanks to the Riverside BIA.
Want to add your business? Submit your information.
Updated to reflect new arrivals and closures - April 2021.
April 8, 2021
OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News April 8-14, 2021
My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/popups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow
🕒 13 minute read
Yesterday’s announcement of another stay-at-home order issued for at least 28 days means you’re going to need serious takeout and delivery options to get through. Luckily, I’ve discovered some pretty outstanding options. Twenty, to be exact. And rest assured – this is just the tip of the iceberg.
The restaurant industry has suffered yet another devastating blow with the closure of patios, again, so please support local businesses whenever possible. Just remember: call first. Getting it delivered? Do this if available to help our beloved locals keep as much of their hard-earned money as possible.
In the meantime, thank you for reading and your continued support.
And stay tuned – more news ahead in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the TR newsletter.
Here’s the very latest:
OPEN
Chef Lili Linda, currently head of pastry for Hexagon Restaurant and 7 Enoteca in Oakville, and originally from Indonesia, has launched Bak Kwa Toronto with her mother-in-law Lay Lee Yang, who’s originally from Malaysia and owned one of the first Chinese restaurants in Bangladesh for over 30 years. BakKwa (pronounced bah koa) translates to dried meat or jerky in Hokkien, Yang’s dialect. Linda says, “She grew up having this as a snack. This type of jerky is very popular among the Chinese community in Southeast Asia (Singapore and Malaysia). It’s traditionally consumed during special occasions, but that has changed a lot recently.” The duo gave some to friends in the industry and they loved it, leading them to make it available to a wider audience. Made in small batches without preservatives, the Hokkien style meat jerky is oven baked, resulting resulting in a tender, flavourful snack that pairs well with beer and champagne. The jerky, it turns out, is just the start of what’s to come. Stay tuned.
Bloorcourt’s newest burger joint Banquet Burger (940 Bloor St. W.) is earning high reviews online, thanks to quality ingredients including fresh ground chuck, real Canadian cheese, and toasted brioche buns.
That was fast. CoMMO on King just launched last month, and quickly followed with a second bottle shop, complete with frozen meals – in Leslieville at The Burren Pub (1301 Queen St. E.), which is temporarily closed due to provincial shutdown.
If you’re one of the remaining few wondering if “coming east” is “worth it,” I give you COPS x East Room. Get fresh hot donuts tomorrow 9am-11pm (4 Matilda St.) in the south courtyard.
Chef Matthew Ravenscroft has been crafting delectable fare at the city’s top restaurants (Rosalinda, The Drake, Parts & Labour) for over a decade. Now he’s sharing his own enticing plant-based creations, Friday Night Delights, via weekly drops. How it works: Menus are available online Sundays at 5pm. Place your order by Tuesday, but be quick - items are limited. Pickups are Friday nights in the Dundas/Dovercourt’ hood. The two-course meals ($35pp) include a starter, main, and $5 donation to a local food justice organization.
Ghost Pizza, a new ghost kitchen by Bar Poet (1090 Queen St. W.), offers 13 pies, some featuring hypebeast monikers: Life is Gucci, Off White™, MicroDose. Other notable selections include a ‘nduja and Stratchatella combo, Shrimp Rosé, and appetizer size Garlic Fingers ‘za with roasted garlic, mozzarella, butter, parmesan, fresh herbs, donair sauce, and truffle hot sauce.
Owning a restaurant has always been a dream of Red Seal Chef Janrikk Millan. When the pandemic started, the restaurant industry was hit the hardest. With some time off work and reduced hours, it was the perfect time to get creative. He and his wife, “travel for food, but burgers are our favourite.” Seeing there weren’t any classic smash burgers in Vaughan, they launched Just Another Burger Spot (JABS). “We've done a lot of work to get our meat ratio, buns, produce, cheese, and JABS sauce just right. We use fresh ingredients and real Cheddar cheese, no processed ingredients. We pickle our own sweet onions and we've created our own green papaya radish - it's a must try.” The home-based online venture offers curbside pickup during the week, with popups on weekends (this weekend Saturday 3-7pm, Sunday 12-4pm). Is there a brick-and-mortar spot in the future? Keep your eyes locked here.
Jessie’s Café (100 Sorauren Ave.) in Parkdale does more than just coffee. In amongst the housemade granola, cinnamon rolls, muffins, brownies, and cookies, find savoury items including soups and array of sandos (Banh Mi, Spice Cauliflower & Chickpea, Kimchi & Frieed Cheese, Monte Cristo) that can be paired with the-side-we-all-need-more-of-right-now, home fries.
Psst. I was the first to tell you about Iki Shokupan By J. last week. Continuing in that vein, Scarborough’s Katsupan Japanese Sandwich (3262 Midland Ave., Unit E111) does traditional shokupan, but shakes things up with Vanilla, French Cocoa, Sweet Matcha - and for one day only canned - varieties.
Lina Khoun is a full-time barber, but always has “one-foot-in/one-food-out” of the hospitality industry including previously tending bar at a few spots in the College West area and organizing private dinners. Her newest venture, Mama Lina, came out of the second lockdown. “I knew I couldn't sit still while not being able to work in the barbershop,” so she launched the weekly prefix dinner delivery program. I've been eating more vegetarian these days, so I style the menu as such with meat or seafood add-ons. Which seems to be a big hit.” This week’s menu: Fennel/Grape Salad, Fried Stuffed Perilla Leaves, Braised Eggplant, and Coconut Tapioca Pudding.
Mississauga folks, you have a Meat & Pie Co. (10 Kingsbridge Garden Circle) to call your own now.
The dreamy Bar Mignonette x Barbershop Patisserie collab this weekend is going to sell out quickly, so act fast. To get your hands on Siu Mai Sausage Rolls and Salted Duck Egg Puffs by Chef Craig Wong and Chef Jill Barber, here’s the drill: Bar Mignonette (794 Dundas St. W.) Pre-order pickup, and walk-ins from noon; Barbershop Patisserie (859 College St. ) Walk-ins only from 11am.
There’s much to love about the new Mira Mira Diner (1963 Queen St. E.) in the Beach, officially open Saturday. First, if you visit tomorrow, there’s free ice cream to be had. Second, the interior’s exquisite. But most importantly, chef/owner Amira Becarevic’s menu. Current takeout items include Jerk Banh Mi, Shrimp Burger, Veggie Burger, Maple Sriracha Wings, and Buttermilk Fried Truffled Mushrooms, with more dishes to follow once patios reopen (Shrimp Cocktail, Deviled Eggs, Hot Turkey Sando, Fish & Chips, Steak & Eggs). And yes, their renowned Chicken Caesar (chicken marinated in honey and kimchi served with a kale sunflower Caesar) is available here, too.
Il Covo hasn’t let the pandemic slow them down one bit. In fact, it’s sparked creative businesses that are blowing up the internet. First it was Gertie’s in January. Now there’s mortadella-centric Morts (585 College St.) – even the salad and slaw features the iconic Italian cold cut. p.s. That’s not all: Pasta Kits in collab with pasta whisperer Chef David Marcelli go on sale this weekend. Aaaand there’s more. Keep reading…
New Persian pizzeria Noon Eatery (3190 Yonge St.) combines Persian and Italian style pies. Think crispy, crunchy crust topped with fresh veggies and halal meat (Persian sausage, pastrami, sliced steak).
Il Covo (see above) just launched Radio Cocktails, “the first virtual bar in Toronto,” born “from the desire to bring the feeling of being at the bar into people’s homes.” On the menu: bottled tipples (Negronis, Boulevardiers, Margaritas), wine and beer, coupled with aperitivo kits, and a la carte bread, preserves, cheese, and salumi. Read about Chef de Cusine Samantha Lamanna in At The Pass.
Recently I revealed that fusion pizza is on the rise. New Canadian ‘rapid pizza’ chain RAPiZZA is getting in on the game with pies that “combine the flavors from India, Korea, Japan, the Middle East, and Mexico with the art of Italian pizza baking.” Launched in December, the company currently has six locations across the province with two in Mississauga, one in Vaughan, and more in the works.
Ruru Baked has set up shop, brick-and-mortar shop for realz, at Bloor and Landsdowne (659 Lansdowne Ave.). Pro tip: Go early/often.
A few weeks ago, I let you in on Chef Andrew Moore’s new concepts Breakfast Club, Dolores, and Good Burgers. Today his Sunday Chicken launches, centered around fried chicken brined overnight with buttermilk and secret blend of spices.
Newsletter subscribers got the scoop this week on exciting new Latin American antojería popup Xolo, launching this weekend at The Little Jerry. Pre-orders are open until Wednesday April 7, 8pm. Ordering on location will also be available with social distancing and other Covid safety protocols in place. Bonus: Get to know the wildly talented chefs behind the project - Ashley McKay and Aldo Camarena in this week’s fascinating At The Pass.
EVENTS
Taste of Mississauga is on until May 10.
NEWS
Chef Moffat Kiloh (Lake Inez, The Harbord Room) has passed away.
An outbreak of COVID-19 has been identified at Cafe Landwer’s Vaughan eatery.
Restaurants Canada and the Ontario Restaurant Hotel & Motel Association (ORHMA) sent an open letter to the Premier on behalf of Ontario’s hard-hit foodservice industry, calling on the government to take immediate actions, including supporting restaurants financially to mitigate rising debt, keeping patio dining available “as an alternative to private gatherings, as safe options for enjoying outdoor activities are important for people’s mental health,” and eradicating the 6 per cent markup that restaurants pay for alcohol from the LCBO.
Antler Kitchen + Bar’s owners Chef Michael Hunter and Jody Shapiro sent Doug Ford a bill for spoilt beer.
ICYMI
Radar alert: Exciting new Latin American antojería popup XOLO is launching this weekend. Get to know the wildly talented chefs behind the project - Ashley McKay and Aldo Camarena - in this week’s fascinating At The Pass.
Pancakes make people happy. Especially Mildred Temple Kitchen’s Famous Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes. Chef/owner Donna Dooher shares her secret recipe to making pillowy pancakes that you’ll make time and again. Not just for breakfast or brunch either. Get the must-have recipe.
There are many reasons to visit Pepper’s Food & Drink. These are just the beginning.
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Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.
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April 5, 2021
At The Pass with Ashley McKay and Aldo Camarena
🕒 11 min read
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.
Currently
Ashley McKay - Cook - Azhar, Xolo
Aldo Camarena - Line Cook, Aspiring Chef - Quetzal, Xolo
Formerly
AC: Among others, I have worked at Piano Piano, Parallel, NODO, Lil’ Baci Taverna and Beer Bistro.
Favourite dish to make right now
AM: I love cake! Any chance I get to play around desserts in my downtime is time well spent. My sweet tooth will definitely be the death of me, but at least it'll be a good one.
AC: A nixtamalized corn tortilla from scratch. If you really dive into it, it can be such a fun and engaging process. From the shucking, the cleaning, the nixtamalization, the grinding, the kneading and hydration, the forming of the testal (masa ball), the thickness of the pressing, the technique for placing it, the timing and techniques for cooking it and especially the eating it. This whole process to me is holy, like a reverence to the specific corn you are working with, and it honestly makes me incredibly happy every time.
Last cookbook purchase
AM: The Last Course: A Cookbook by Claudia Fleming and Melissa Clark.
AC: Ashley just got me Flour Water Salt Yeast: The Fundamentals of Artisan Bread and Pizza by Ken Forkish, which I intend to finish in a binge once the first pop-up is done.
Have you read it/tried any recipes
AM: I haven't made anything yet. Still reading through it, I am enjoying the wine paring snippets throughout.
AC: Not quite, but I had a chance to go learn side-by-side with Matt Lawrence, one of the bakers at Bar Isabel, and having read halfway through the book gave me tons of context for what I was learning.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
AM: I don't care what you put on the menu as long as you're paying your staff well.
AC: Guacamole. There's a serious, serious deforestation and land erosion problem in Michoacán and several other regions worldwide. This is due to the irresponsible over harvesting of avocado. In a time when the world is seeing mass immigration due to climate injustice, the overindulgence of avocado in Canada and the US is super gross. Many in Mexico, including my family, are seeing this super culturally important fruit disappear from their tables from over-inflated prices and loss of access due to sale to foreign markets and loss of arable farmland. Try subbing avocado for blanched Mexican squash and you can end up with a super similar product!
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
AM: I would really love to see more chefs in the city pay attention to the seasonality of local produce and the effects our global palates have on the environment.
AC: Manoomin, also known as wild rice. This is a crop that Indigenous people of Canada have been growing for thousands of years. Chefs have a platform, and with that platform, we should be doing more to promote a fair and responsible consumption of local products, especially when consuming them can support indigenous communities and their way of life. If folks want more information, they should Google "Curve Lake Manoomin."
Xolo. Left: Ashley McKay. Right: Aldo Camarena.
Biggest influences
AM: I have been super blessed to have worked with some incredible cooks throughout the years. Some of the most educational experiences have been seeing these cooks put the tips they share with me into practice and succeed night after night. Most notably, working alongside Aldo has taught me so much. We can both be pretty intense in kitchens, but we work so well together and know exactly how to push each other to achieve our best.
AC: My family. There's a way to do things in my family that translates to anything we do. It is there that I get my work and moral ethic. My wife Ashley is often the reason I do anything now, and every dish I cook or design these days is a love note to her. I look at Ali Grundman and Greg Balingit as chefs who took the time to really help me learn earlier in my career. Finally, a very special mention goes out to Steven Molnar at Quetzal, and honestly the rest of the team I have had the privilege of working with there.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
AM: Central Restaurante in Peru.
AC: Tickets in Barcelona.
Last thing you ate
AM: Fried cheese.
AC: Jamaican Patty. Spicy beef, of course.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
AM: Butter, garlic, mushrooms.
AC: Limes, garlic, cheese.
Guilty pleasure
AM: Wint O Green LIfeSavers Mints (they glow in the dark when you bite them), I can so easily crush an entire bag of those in one sitting. Also, bad TV.
AC: De La Rosa Mazapán at 4am. I keep sneaking them into the house and refilling my large-sized box, so Ashley won't notice just how many of these I've been eating.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
AM: Viaggio, Quetzal, Ramen Isshin
AC: Can I say Quetzal? (Editor’s Note: Absolutely!) Edulis, Tacos Gus, Rasa
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
AM: The Little Jerry, Houndstooth, The Greater Good
AC: The Little Jerry, Houndstooth, The Lab
Go-to drink
AM: Wine, I love tasting new things and learning about what goes into making what ends up in my glass. Also, a good Spanish Fizz will always make my day.
AC: Lambrusco at a wine bar, sour beer at a beer bar, PBR at a dive bar, wild agave mezcal at a tequila bar, and Old Fashioned at a cocktail bar.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
AM: Definitely drinking too much coffee and not enough water.
AC: I magnify my mistakes without ever taking into account the good I do, until frustration has wrecked me up real bad.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
AM: Organization. No matter what the day throws my way, the thing that always pulls me back and keeps me on task is a well thought-out list.
AC: Always leave it better than you found it. Doesn't matter if nobody else notices or cares. You notice. You care. Apply this to everything including yourself and every day will be a day of improvement. It all comes down to the respect with which you treat things and the people in your life.
Hidden talent
AM: Lists. Even outside of kitchens, I write amazing lists for anything and everything. Also crocheting - it's a great way to level up dexterity.
AC: Tetris and talking in circles about Mexico. I often do both simultaneously.
Best career advice you ever received
AM: Always push harder and be better everyday.
AC: "Work harder than those around you and never hesitate to support people who could depend on you. Be an active member of your community." This was one of the last things my grandfather told me before he passed, pero en español.
Worst career advice you ever received
AM: So I've been trying to think of bad advice I've received for some time now, and nothing comes to mind. Here's a little advice from me: When you hear bad advice, don't listen.
AC: "Keep your head down and don't ask questions."
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
AM: Write everything down and watch how the people around you are working. They might not always be able to teach you, but there is so much to be learnt from observation. Lists are everything!
Get some really comfortable shoes, they'll make your time in the kitchen so much more enjoyable.
AC: Learn to observe and record your growth. Taste and feel everything multiple times. Take notes and photos of what you do and compare them from time to time. This is how you keen your senses and get really good at things. Otherwise you're just blindly guessing.
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In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration.
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April 3, 2021
Secret Recipe: Mildred’s Famous Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes
Secret Recipe is an ongoing series where Toronto’s top chefs reveal their closely guarded, drool-inducing restaurant recipes to be recreated by you at home.
🕒 4 min read
Is there anything more comforting than a plate of fluffy hot pancakes? Hmmm, no. There are however, a few tips and tricks to getting them just right. Who better to show you the way than Chef Doona Dooher, owner of brunch destination Mildred’s Temple Kitchen.
“Pancakes make people happy,” she says. “Throughout the past few months, through everything that has happened, Mrs. B’s pancake recipe has brought us all together.”
As for the best time to dive into these heavenly stacks, Dooher says, “Pancakes aren’t just for brunch or breakfast. It’s a staple in many people’s households. Whether that be during breakfast, a special brunch for a loved one, pancakes for dinner or all day celebratory pancakes. In the end, do you really need a reason to eat delicious pancakes?”
All that’s required: a few pantry staples and following Chef Dooher’s easy instructions below.
Not up to making them them from scratch? You’re in luck. You can order them right to your door. #brunchgoals.
Mrs. Biederhof’s Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes
Ingredients
¼ cup of white sugar
½ tsp of salt
2 cups of all-purpose flour
2 ¼ tsp of baking powder
½ tsp of baking soda
2 large eggs
2 cups of buttermilk
¼ cup of melted unsalted butter
1 cup of fresh blueberries
And some extra unsalted butter on hand to grease the skillet
Directions
Step 1
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder and baking soda.
Step 2
In a separate bowl, beat the eggs with the buttermilk and melted butter.
Step 3
Using a spatula, combine the dry and wet ingredients to make a thick, lumpy batter, taking care not to overmix. The real trick to these is in the mixing. If you overmix the batter, your pancakes won’t be moist and delicate.
Step 4
In a nonstick skillet, melt some butter over medium-high heat. Ladle ⅓ cup of batter into the hot skillet and sprinkle with blueberries. Take care not to overcrowd the skillet, since the pancakes will puff up as they cook.
Step 5
When bubbles appear on the surface of the pancake and the edges begin to brown, flip the pancakes and cook the other side. It should take about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Keep them nice and warm by keeping them in a 250ºF oven.
Step 6
Smother with maple syrup, fresh blueberries, dollop with whipped cream and maybe even a good dusting of icing sugar.
And there you have it! So pat yourself on the back now because you just made your own stack of Mildred’s famous pancakes. Play around with it next time. Fancy some chocolate chips? Go for it. Or some rainbow sprinkles? (ouuuu sprinkles) You, my friend, are the Grand Master. Go ahead and throw them in. However you prefer them, enjoy your delicious fluffy creations. We’ll see you on the other side of all of this. Stay well.
Did you know? Chef Dooher’s famous ‘Mrs. Biederhof’s Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes’ takes its name from the 1945 film, Mildred Pierce, like many other brunch dishes and cocktails (‘Bert’s Back’ is a must) at the restaurant. As for who Mrs. Biederhof is, you’ll have to watch the movie to find out.
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Mildred’s Temple Kitchen
85 Hanna Ave., Unit 104
(416) 588-5695
Discover other Secret Recipes from top restaurants and chefs across the GTA.
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