Stephanie Dickison's Blog, page 33

Secret Recipe: PAI's Pad Gra Prow

Pad Gra Prow. Photo by Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriott.

Secret Recipe is an ongoing series where Toronto’s top chefs reveal their closely guarded, drool-inducing restaurant recipes to be recreated by you at home.

🕒 8 min read

Chef Nuit Regular’s northern Thai cuisine has been recognized by the government of Thailand with their prestigious ‘Thai Select Premium’ designation for its authenticity. Thus, it’s no wonder Pad Gra Prow, a popular dish in Thailand, happens to be a best seller at PAI, one of the renowned Thai restaurants she and husband Jeff own and operate.

The fragrant pork stir-fry topped with a crispy egg boasts rich flavours from oyster and soy sauces, delivering an umami depth, while chilies add an exhilarating kick. But it’s the holy basil that make this dish a standout.  Also known as tulsi, holy basil* boasts a number of health benefits including boosting your immune system, and delivers a unique flavour profile - strong and peppery, with notes of cloves.

Chef Nuit shares the recipe below. It’s also featured in her new cookbook Kiin: Recipes and Stories from Northern Thailand.

It’s a wonderfully straightforward dish that elevates your usual stir-fry game and can be recreated any time of day, including as a enticing savoury option for breakfast or brunch. With travel plans currently on hold, it brings a bit of northern Thailand home. And on the days you’re not up to making it, place an order for pickup or delivery. Win-win.

Holy Basil Stir-Fry / Pad Gra Prow

Serves 2

This is one of the most popular stir-fry dishes in Thailand. It is so simple to make and can be so satisfying when done right. Each spoonful explodes with flavour and aroma from the holy basil, complemented by the deep-fried egg on top. The runny yolk pours down over the rice, adding a creamy texture and flavour. (I like to cook the eggs one at a time so the edges get crispy and to ensure they do not stick together.) Add in the holy basil aroma, and it is a dish that pleases on many levels.

You can replace the ground pork with beef, chicken, shrimp, or tofu. Adding the sauce before the pork is fully cooked ensures that the meat absorbs more of its flavour. In Thailand, we have access to fresh holy basil year round. Imported basil travels a long way and is often not as fresh. To get the most out of your basil, just before adding it to the wok, hold the bunch in your hand and break the leaves using your fingers to release their oils and fragrance.

¼ cup + 3 tablespoons sunflower oil, divided
2 eggs, cracked individually into 2 small bowls
1 tablespoon Thai oyster sauce 1 tablespoon thin soy sauce
1 tablespoon sweet soy sauce 1½ teaspoons Thai fish sauce
2 tablespoons minced unpeeled Thai garlic or peeled regular garlic
½ teaspoon minced fresh red bird’s eye chili (optional)
1 pound (450 g) regular ground pork (about 2 cups)
1 fresh red spur chili, cut in half crosswise, seeded and julienned
½ white onion, cut lengthwise into ¼-inch strips
1 cup packed fresh holy basil leaves
½ teaspoon white pepper (preferably) or black pepper

For serving

2 cups Steamed Jasmine Rice
1 to 2 tablespoons Chili Fish Sauce (recipe follows)

1.       To fry the eggs: Heat a medium wok or small skillet over high heat for 2 minutes. Add ¼ cup of the sunflower oil. Slowly drop 1 egg into the oil, decrease the heat to medium, and fry until the outer edges of the   egg white turn crispy and brown, about 1 minute. Using a flat, nonstick spatula, slowly slide it under the deep-fried egg and scrape against the bottom of the wok. This will help prevent the egg from sticking to the wok and breaking the yolk. Transfer the fried egg to a plate lined with paper towel. Repeat to cook the second egg. Set aside. 

2.      To make the sauce: In a small bowl, stir together the oyster sauce, thin soy sauce, sweet soy sauce, and fish sauce. Set aside.

3.       Heat a large wok or skillet over high heat for 2 minutes. This will allow the wok to expand and help transfer the heat well during cooking and also prevents the food from sticking to the bottom. Remove from the heat so the garlic doesn’t burn. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons sunflower oil, minced garlic, and red bird’s eye chili (if using) and cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is fragrant, 10 to 20 seconds. Add the ground pork, return the wok over high heat, and sauté for 1 minute, spreading the pork out to ensure the meat touches as much of the hot pan as possible. 

4.       Stir in the sauce. Continue to sauté for 2 minutes. Add the red spur chili and onion, stir, and cook for another minute. Using your hands, tear the holy basil leaves into the wok. Stir and cook for another minute or until the basil starts to soften and turn dark green. Sprinkle in the white pepper. Remove from the heat.

5.       To serve, divide the steamed jasmine rice between 2 plates and spread it out. Place the stir-fried holy basil on top of the rice. If there is extra oil in the wok, pour some on top of the rice. It is full of flavour! Place deep-fried egg on top of the rice. Serve with chili fish sauce.

Chili Fish Sauce / Nam Prik Nam Pla

Makes ½ cup

This is a classic Thai condiment that is a staple of Thai meals. It goes with so many dishes, and is frequently found in the middle of the table for adding a bit of spice to our food. It is my favourite accompaniment with almost any Thai dish. The diverse flavour profile is a perfect, yet simple, balance of fish sauce, lime, garlic, and chili. Each bite packs a small punch of flavour and amazing texture.

3 tablespoons Thai fish sauce 2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon Thai cane sugar
½ teaspoon minced unpeeled Thai garlic or peeled regular garlic
¼ cup fresh lime juice
10 to 15 fresh green bird’s eye chilies, thinly sliced crosswise
5 fresh red bird‘s eye chilies, thinly sliced crosswise   
1 lime wedge, thinly sliced 

1.       In a small bowl, stir together the fish sauce, water, cane sugar, and garlic, until the sugar has fully dissolved. Add the lime juice, chilies, and lime and mix well. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

*Holy basil in available in select Asian supermarkets.

PAI Downtown
18 Duncan St.
416-901-4724

PAI Uptown
2335 Yonge St.
416-901-4724

PAI at Kitchenhub - Etobicoke
935 The Queensway
416-551-4500

Discover other Secret Recipes from top restaurants and chefs across the GTA.

For news, updates, interviews + more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter. 

Recipe excerpted from Kiin by Nuit Regular. Copyright © 2020 by Nuit Regular. Photography copyright © 2020 by Michael Graydon and Nikole Herriott. Published by Penguin Canada, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.

OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News April 15-21, 2021

Photo courtesy of Sakana-Ya, Rolls & Rice

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/popups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

🕒 10.5 min read

This week’s 21 arrivals include some pretty exhilarating options. Which is exactly what’s needed while stay-at-home orders are in full effect. So as many celebrate Canada Takeout Day today, I ask that you please support small, local businesses as often as possible.

And to all those celebrating - Happy Gudi Padwa, Baisakh, and Ramadan Mubarak to you and your loved ones.

Aaaaand stay tuned – more news ahead in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the TR newsletter.

In the meantime, here’s the very latest:

OPEN 

Hot tip: add these must-have pantry items to your shopping list this week. avec Jayden, a new line of Korean products by Jayden - junior sous chef at top Toronto restaurant Richmond Station - and his wife Ellen, wasn’t developed to follow any trend. “The more I put myself in this industry, “ says, “the more I want to introduce and share the flavour of my back home.” The lineup is small, for now. “We have always respected classic and authentic foods so started couple of classic items first.” Select from kimchi (OG or Baek) and kalbi sausage - with more items being added soon. The home-based business offers pickup in the Yonge & Eglinton area.  

The Backyard Smokehouse (264 Dupont St.) moved into Live Organic Food Bar’s old digs with a mix of burgers, Nashville hot chicken, and barbecue staples - brisket, ribs, mac and cheese, et al.  

Radar alert: ISO out of this world cakes? Behold Boréal Gâteau’s celestial ice cream creations. And stay tuned: a brick-and-mortar spot is set to touch down in Unionville this summer.

Buono, known for their antipasti, pasta, piadina, and Milano-style pizza, expanded again. Find the third venue in Roncy (413 Roncesvalles Ave.). Buon appetito.

Three friends - Jose and chefs Shada and Steff – banded together to create Canaima Cafe (World Food Market -335 Yonge St.), an exciting new Venezuelan street food destination. While you’ll find delectable must-haves on the menu such as empanadas and arepas, may I direct your attention to their mandocas - cheesy, ripe plantain and cornmeal fried dough rings served with Venezuelan cream cheese – available fried, air-fried or frozen. 

Cheongdam Restaurant (7335 Yonge St., Unit 2) in Thornhill offers endless options, but whatever you do, don’t sleep on their stunning Korean BBQ  dosiraks (boxed sets). Swoon.

It’s been nearly two years since Firehouse Subs debuted in the 6ix. Parth Patel and Pradiptya Banerjee’s satellite at York Mills and Don Mills (865 York Mills Rd., Unit 6) opens Wednesday.

GG's Burgers (1681 Lakeshore Blvd E.) in Woodbine Beach launches today. On the menu: smash burgers, Nashville hot chicken sandos, patty melts, chili cheese dogs, sides, soft serve, milkshakes, turnovers, beer, and beach-friendly canned cocktails.

Tired of the usual takeout? Imlil Moroccan Cuisine (979 O’Connor Dr.) in East York has just the thing to liven things up - including your palate – with sumptuous selections, including Rice Bowl ($10), Couscous ($20), and Tajines ($16): Lamb with caramelized prunes, almonds, sesame seeds; Beef with artichokes, peas, lemons, olives; Chicken with preserved lemon and olives. Even drinks take things up a notch with offerings of fresh juice ($7) and Moroccan Tea ($2) . And don’t forget to add Moroccan sweets onto your order. Bonus: Enjoy a 25 per cent discount for takeout.  

imPerfect Fresh Eats at Queen and Spadina (477 Queen St. W.) is the second healthy outpost by siblings May and Jeff Dang.

Welcome back, Jumbo Empanadas! The Chilean restaurant in Kensington Market (245 Augusta Ave.) reopened earlier this week after being closed for nearly six months due to a fire next door. 

The Library Specialty Coffee softly opened their beautifully minimalist outpost yesterday, right across from Trinity Bellwoods Park (917 Queen St. W.). This is their second shop in Toronto.

Worth. The. Wait. After lengthy delays, Mascot Brewery finally kicked off their Etobicoke location (37 Advance Rd.) yesterday. The new production space (and soonish-to-be restaurant, beer garden and bottle shop) is the latest addition to the downtown Toronto brew bar and beer garden (220 King St. W.) that debuted summer ‘19. 

The MoMo House’s third location – and second during the pandemic - premiered yesterday at Queen and Bathurst (685 Queen St. W.).

Calgary’s Chef Mike Pigot launched his famed Pigot’s Burger Club here in the Big Smoke yesterday in collaboration with The Heartbreak Chef’s Jerome Robinson. Pro tip: Items sold out quickly yesterday, so order early to avoid disappointment.

Psst, there’s a new secret smokehouse in the city. Get your meat sweats courtesy of Riverside Smokehouse, a southern style barbecue ghost kitchen running out of Prohibition Social House (696 Queen St. E.).

Puff Pastes (1672 St Clair Ave. W.) specializes in pastes - a handheld snack that brings together the best parts of Cornish pasties and Mexican empanadas. Visit their downtown pop-up this weekend (Fri-Sun) at King and Niagara (852 King St. W.), across from Stanley Park.  

Just in time for this weekend’s warmer temps. East York’s Roll Me Up Ice Cream unveiled a new shop in Markham (75 Main St. N.) earlier this week. p.s. Get the bubble waffle.

Two words: Omakase takeaway. Okay, three more: Sakana-Ya, Rolls & Rice (Majestic City - 2900 Markham Rd., Unit H8). Chef Tan Hidekatsu, originally from Hokkaido Japan, has been in the seafood industry for over 40 years. His new stellar takeout spot offers a dizzying array of irresistible dishes, featuring freshly flown-in seafood that’s “properly handled and stored.”

SUSHI4U Japanese Restaurant (3423 Lake Shore Blvd. W., 647-344-8877) in Etobicoke does sushi, bento boxes, and udon combos, as you’d experct. But you’ll also discover Korean (bulgogi, hwe dup bap) and Hawaiian (poke bowls) fare. For a limited time, takeout orders paid with cash receive five per cent off on orders of $20 or more.

Eagle-eyed OPEN/CLOSED readers would have noticed my announcement of Tala’s final day at 294 Dundas St. W. last month. The celebrated Filipino eatery known for kamayan kits packed in a pizza box, has moved into Tinuno (31 Howard St.), their other venture, for the time being, until they find permanent digs. 

CLOSED 

Earlier this week, Guy and Kim Rawlings, owners of Montgomery’s (996 Queen St. W.), announced they’re taking a break after five years.

The first location of Toronto Popcorn Company (147 Baldwin St.) has shuttered after eight years. The Beaches location (1948 Queen St. E.) remains. You can also order snacks to be shipped via their website.

EVENTS

Taste of Mississauga is on until May 10.

NEWS  

A Barrie restaurant’s liquor licence has been suspended after remaining open during the province’s shutdown and stay-at-home order. This comes not long after an eatery near Ottawa had its liquor licence suspended after an anti-mask event.

Over 100 people may have been exposed to COVID-19 at a restaurant in Vaughan.

Many outlets were quick to write that the "Kim's Convenience" store was up for sale this week. Unlike the show, this isn’t the end for the beloved shop after all.

Josh Matlow, City Councillor for Toronto – St. Paul’s, has done a tremendous amount of good for the city, especially during the pandemic. Earlier this week, he put forth a motion to implement “a pilot project to allow beer and wine consumption in public parks and beaches” from May to October, to mitigate people gathering indoors. 

ICYMI

Riverside has changed. 

When Alessandra Bustamante isn’t baking up a storm at Blackbird Bakign Co., you’ll find her just as focused on food off the clock too - making pasta from scratch, noshing on addictive snacks (salty, spicy and sweet), and grabbing takeout from some of the city’s top restaurants. Discover more in this week’s sensational At The Pass.

This week’s arrivals got you thinking about ice cream? Discover more in The Ultimate Guide to Ice Cream + Frozen Treats in Toronto/GTA.
____  

Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.   

Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.  

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your business without spending $$$? We can help.  

Advertise with Toronto Restaurants. *Space is limited.

At The Pass with Alessandra Bustamante

Photo by Walter Homem.

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. 

🕒 6 min read

Currently

Pastry Cook, Blackbird Baking Co.

Formerly 

Toronto: Auberge du Pommier, Luma. London: The Goring.

Favourite dish to make right now

I was gifted a pasta extruder attachment for my stand mixer this past Christmas and I’ve been really enjoying it. So, anything involving pasta!  

Last cookbook purchase

A Good Bake - The Art and Science of Making Perfect Pastries, Cakes, Cookies, Pies, and Breads at Home: A Cookbook by Melissa Weller and Carolynn Carreno

Have you read it/tried any recipes

I’ve gone through most of the book and I haven’t tried any of the recipes yet, but the Date Tahini Challah Knots are definitely something I plan on making soon.   

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

This is a tough one because I think if done well by the right chef, any ingredient/dish could be amazing. But my initial thoughts would be to get rid of anything overly artificial or unsustainably sourced.   

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

Filipino flavours in general. Sorry I can’t pick one! I’m really excited about seeing more Filipino food represented in Toronto. 

Peach Melba. Auberge du Pommier 2018. Photo by Malcolm Campbell.

Biggest influences

My Abuelita for sure. She opened her bakery, Sans Rival, on an island in the Philippines in the mid-Seventies with no formal training in baking or cooking, but she was excellent at it. Now they have expanded across the Philippines.

Ferran Adrià was the first chef I’d ever read about and everything he did fascinated me. He formed my idea of what unique dining experiences were and got me interested in the industry.  

Simon Blackwell, the owner of Blackbird Baking Co. I think that he’s built something really special in Toronto.  

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

I have a soft spot for street food and market vendors, but a restaurant I’ve been wanting to check out is Noma in Copenhagen, or even one of its popups.

Last thing you ate

Miss Vickie's Spicy Dill Pickle Kettle Cooked Potato Chips. 

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge 

Eggs, butter, and lately Marvin Palomo’s XOXO Sauce - the spicy one!

Guilty pleasure

There are SO many. I go through phases where I fixate on one thing, and right now it’s Blackbird’s Almond Croissants.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Tinuno, Imanishi Japanese Kitchen, and Aloette are some favourites, and are on my takeout list.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

My pre-COVID go-to spots were definitely Grey Gardens, Après Wine Bar (now Ikune by Après) and LoPan.

Go-to drink

Negroni.

Croissants by Alessandra Bustamante.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake 

Definitely not drinking enough water.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

Planning your next moves and helping others— be that in the dish pit, running plates to stations, cleaning. Working in a kitchen is a team sport.

Hidden talent

It wouldn’t be hidden anymore if I revealed it. ;)

Best career advice you ever received

“Stop and appreciate your accomplishments, give yourself credit for the things you’ve achieved through hard work.” - My sister, Daniella.

“Stay hungry.” - Almost every chef I’ve worked for.

Worst career advice you ever received

Don’t do it, it’s a male-dominated industry. 

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business 

Work hard, work clean, and always plot the most efficient way to work on your prep list—like starting with the most difficult or long tasks first to get them out of the way. 

Travel when you can and to places you’ve never been. Take pictures, keep a notebook to write everything down (recipes, methods, tips) and be eager to try new things—the food industry is always evolving.

Most of all, love it. If you don’t, then it just becomes a job - one with long hours and sore feet.

———  

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.     

For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter. 

Toronto Restaurants Food + Drink Guide: Riverside

🕒 3.5 min read

Designed to help you support small, local businesses while navigating the current landscape, consider these curated Neighbourhood Food + Drink Guides a kind of virtual food tour (and survival guide) featuring an array of restaurants, bars, breweries, bakeries, cafes, liquor stores, and food and bottle shops offering in-store services, takeout and delivery, in vibrant communities across the city.

RIVERSIDE EDITION

The eastside nabe imbued with a buzzy vibrancy, simultaneously evokes a relaxed, community vibe.

Take a look: 

***COVID-19 UPDATE: Businesses listed below may be currently closed due to the pandemic. Please contact establishments directly for hours of operation. ***  

Animal Liberation Kitchen
Vegan Restaurant
100 Broadview Ave., Unit 202
647-232-9790 

Blackbird Baking Co.
Bakery/Retail
635 Queen St. E.
416-546-2280

Bonjour Brioche
Bistro/Bakery
812 Queen St. E.
416-406-1250

Boost Bar Cafe
Cafe
672 Queen St. E.

Boxcar Social Café Bar
Café/Bar
4 Boulton Ave.
416-349-1210

Brickworks Ciderhouse
Gastropub
709 Queen St. E.
416-759-6565

The Broadview Hotel Café + Bar
106 Broadview Ave.
416-362-8439

Butchers Of Distinction
Butcher/Retail
738 Queen St. E.
416-466-9191

Chez Nous Wine Bar
Wine Bar
798 Queen St. E.
416-781-4743

The Comrade
Restaurant
758 Queen St. E.
416-778-9449 

Dark Horse Espresso Bar
Coffee Shop
630 Queen St. E.
647-436-3460

Cannonball Coffee and Bar
Café/Bar
641 Queen St. E.
416-463-0500

The Civic
Canadian Restaurant
106 Broadview Ave.
416-362-8439

Eastbound Brewing Company
Brewpub/Brewery
700 Queen St. E.
416-901-1299

Est Restaurant
Restaurant & Bar
729 Queen St. E.
416-792-1000

Fortune Smoke & Gift Store
Convenience Store
736 Queen St. E.
416-465-1988

Good Karma
Indian Restaurant
689 Queen St. E.
416-551-6152

il ponte – Cucina Italiana
Italian Restaurant
625 Queen St. E.
416-778-0404

Hi-Lo
Bar
753 Queen St. E.
416-551-3459

Indian Spice Room
Indian Restaurant
717 Queen St. E.
647-349-1009

Isaan Der
Thai Restaurant
730 Queen St. E.
416-465-0100

La Carnita
Mexican Restaurant
780 Queen St. E.
647-344 0780

LAN Vietnamese Restaurant
Vietnamese Restaurant
755 Queen St. E.
647-748-7388

The John
Bar
682 + 686 Queen St. E.
416-469-1396 

LCBO
Liquor Store
772 Queen St. E.
416-465-6943

Lob
Bocce Ball/Restaurant
100 Broadview Ave., Unit 101
416-583-1516

Nightowl
Bar
725 Queen St. E.
647-343-1698

The Opera House Grill & Patio
Greek Restaurant
737 Queen St. E.
647-348-7717

Pizza Nova
Pizzeria
714 Queen St. E.
416-439-0000

Pizza Pizza
Pizzeria
678-680 Queen St. E.
416-967-1111

Pizzaiolo
Pizzeria
722 Queen St. E.
416-406-3456

Prohibition Social House
Gastropub
696 Queen St. E.
416-406-2669 

Riverside Burgers
Burger Restaurant
688 Queen St. E.
416-850-7026

Punjabi By Nature
Indian Restaurant
782 Queen St. E.
416-465-7777

Riverside Market
Grocery/Convenience Store
720 Queen St. E.
416-466-0821

Saulter Street Brewery
Brewery/Bottle Shop
1-31 Saulter St.
416-462-9379 

Slayer Burger
Fast Food
739 Queen St. E.
416-846-3786

Starbank Convenience Mart
Convenience Store
705 Queen St. E.
416-463-4663

Subway
Sandwich Restaurant
727 Queen St. E.
647-435-8673 

Tabule Middle Eastern Cuisine
Middle Eastern Restaurant
810 Queen St. E.
416-465-2500

White Lily Diner
Modern Diner
678 Queen St. E.
416-981-7800

St. John’s Bakery
Bakery
153 Broadview Ave.
416-850-7413

Sweet Jesus
Ice Cream/Dessert Shop
780 Queen St. E.
647-334-0780

Urban House Cafe
Restaurant & Bar
718 Queen St. E.
416-901-9718

Wine Rack
Wine Store
731 Queen St. E.
416-465-5454

Explore other Neighbourhood Food + Drink Guides.

Please contact establishments directly for more information. Names, addresses, phone numbers and websites subject to change.

With thanks to the Riverside BIA.

Want to add your business? Submit your information.

Updated to reflect new arrivals and closures - April 2021.

OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News April 8-14, 2021

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/popups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

🕒 13 minute read

Yesterday’s announcement of another stay-at-home order issued for at least 28 days means you’re going to need serious takeout and delivery options to get through. Luckily, I’ve discovered some pretty outstanding options. Twenty, to be exact. And rest assured – this is just the tip of the iceberg.

The restaurant industry has suffered yet another devastating blow with the closure of patios, again, so please support local businesses whenever possible.  Just remember: call first. Getting it delivered? Do this if available to help our beloved locals keep as much of their hard-earned money as possible.

In the meantime, thank you for reading and your continued support.

And stay tuned – more news ahead in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the TR newsletter. 

Here’s the very latest:

OPEN

Chef Lili Linda, currently head of pastry for Hexagon Restaurant and 7 Enoteca in Oakville, and originally from Indonesia, has launched Bak Kwa Toronto with her mother-in-law Lay Lee Yang, who’s originally from Malaysia and owned one of the first Chinese restaurants in Bangladesh for over 30 years. BakKwa (pronounced bah koa) translates to dried meat or jerky in Hokkien, Yang’s dialect. Linda says, “She grew up having this as a snack. This type of jerky is very popular among the Chinese community in Southeast Asia (Singapore and Malaysia). It’s traditionally consumed during special occasions, but that has changed a lot recently.” The duo gave   some to friends in the industry and they loved it, leading them to make it available to a wider audience. Made in small batches without preservatives, the Hokkien style meat jerky is oven baked, resulting resulting in a tender, flavourful snack that pairs well with beer and champagne. The jerky, it turns out, is just the start of what’s to come. Stay tuned.

Bloorcourt’s newest burger joint Banquet Burger (940 Bloor St. W.) is earning high reviews online, thanks to quality ingredients including fresh ground chuck, real Canadian cheese, and toasted brioche buns.

That was fast. CoMMO on King just launched last month, and quickly followed with a second bottle shop, complete with frozen meals – in Leslieville at The Burren Pub (1301 Queen St. E.), which is temporarily closed due to provincial shutdown.

If you’re one of the remaining few wondering if “coming east” is “worth it,” I give you COPS x East Room. Get fresh hot donuts tomorrow 9am-11pm (4 Matilda St.) in the south courtyard.

Chef Matthew Ravenscroft has been crafting delectable fare at the city’s top restaurants (Rosalinda, The Drake, Parts & Labour) for over a decade. Now he’s sharing his own enticing plant-based creations, Friday Night Delights, via weekly drops. How it works: Menus are available online Sundays at 5pm. Place your order by Tuesday, but be quick - items are limited. Pickups are Friday nights in the Dundas/Dovercourt’ hood. The two-course meals ($35pp) include a starter, main, and $5 donation to a local food justice organization.

Ghost Pizza, a new ghost kitchen by Bar Poet (1090 Queen St. W.), offers 13 pies, some featuring hypebeast monikers: Life is Gucci, Off White™, MicroDose. Other notable selections include a ‘nduja and Stratchatella combo, Shrimp Rosé, and appetizer size Garlic Fingers ‘za with roasted garlic, mozzarella, butter, parmesan, fresh herbs, donair sauce, and truffle hot sauce. 

Owning a restaurant has always been a dream of Red Seal Chef Janrikk Millan. When the pandemic started, the restaurant industry was hit the hardest. With some time off work and reduced hours, it was the perfect time to get creative. He and his wife, “travel for food, but burgers are our favourite.” Seeing there weren’t any classic smash burgers in Vaughan, they launched Just Another Burger Spot (JABS). “We've done a lot of work to get our meat ratio, buns, produce, cheese, and JABS sauce just right. We use fresh ingredients and real Cheddar cheese, no processed ingredients. We pickle our own sweet onions and we've created our own green papaya radish - it's a must try.” The home-based online venture offers curbside pickup during the week, with popups on weekends (this weekend Saturday 3-7pm, Sunday 12-4pm). Is there a brick-and-mortar spot in the future? Keep your eyes locked here.

Jessie’s Café (100 Sorauren Ave.) in Parkdale does more than just coffee. In amongst the housemade granola, cinnamon rolls, muffins, brownies, and cookies, find savoury items including soups and array of sandos (Banh Mi, Spice Cauliflower & Chickpea, Kimchi & Frieed Cheese, Monte Cristo) that can be paired with the-side-we-all-need-more-of-right-now, home fries.

Psst. I was the first to tell you about Iki Shokupan By J. last week. Continuing in that vein, Scarborough’s Katsupan Japanese Sandwich (3262 Midland Ave., Unit E111) does traditional shokupan, but shakes things up with Vanilla, French Cocoa, Sweet Matcha - and for one day only canned - varieties.

Lina Khoun is a full-time barber, but always has “one-foot-in/one-food-out” of the hospitality industry including previously tending bar at a few spots in the College West area and organizing private dinners. Her newest venture, Mama Lina, came out of the second lockdown. “I knew I couldn't sit still while not being able to work in the barbershop,” so she launched the weekly prefix dinner delivery program. I've been eating more vegetarian these days, so I style the menu as such with meat or seafood add-ons. Which seems to be a big hit.” This week’s menu: Fennel/Grape Salad, Fried Stuffed Perilla Leaves, Braised Eggplant, and Coconut Tapioca Pudding.

Mississauga folks, you have a Meat & Pie Co. (10 Kingsbridge Garden Circle) to call your own now.

The dreamy Bar Mignonette x Barbershop Patisserie collab this weekend is going to sell out quickly, so act fast. To get your hands on Siu Mai Sausage Rolls and Salted Duck Egg Puffs by Chef Craig Wong and Chef Jill Barber, here’s the drill: Bar Mignonette (794 Dundas St. W.) Pre-order pickup, and walk-ins from noon; Barbershop Patisserie (859 College St. ) Walk-ins only  from 11am.

There’s much to love about the new Mira Mira Diner (1963 Queen St. E.) in the Beach, officially open Saturday. First, if you visit tomorrow, there’s free ice cream to be had. Second, the interior’s exquisite. But most importantly, chef/owner Amira Becarevic’s menu. Current takeout items include Jerk Banh Mi, Shrimp Burger, Veggie Burger, Maple Sriracha Wings, and Buttermilk Fried Truffled Mushrooms, with more dishes to follow once patios reopen (Shrimp Cocktail, Deviled Eggs, Hot Turkey Sando, Fish & Chips, Steak & Eggs). And yes, their renowned Chicken Caesar (chicken marinated in honey and kimchi served with a kale sunflower Caesar) is available here, too.

Il Covo hasn’t let the pandemic slow them down one bit. In fact, it’s sparked creative businesses that are blowing up the internet. First it was Gertie’s in January. Now there’s mortadella-centric Morts (585 College St.) – even the salad and slaw features the iconic Italian cold cut. p.s. That’s not all: Pasta Kits in collab with pasta whisperer Chef David Marcelli go on sale this weekend. Aaaand there’s more. Keep reading…

New Persian pizzeria Noon Eatery (3190 Yonge St.) combines Persian and Italian style pies. Think crispy, crunchy crust topped with fresh veggies and halal meat (Persian sausage, pastrami, sliced steak).

Il Covo (see above) just launched Radio Cocktails, “the first virtual bar in Toronto,” born “from the desire to bring the feeling of being at the bar into people’s homes.” On the menu: bottled tipples (Negronis, Boulevardiers, Margaritas), wine and beer, coupled with aperitivo kits, and a la carte bread, preserves, cheese, and salumi. Read about Chef de Cusine Samantha Lamanna in At The Pass.

Recently I revealed that fusion pizza is on the rise. New Canadian ‘rapid pizza’ chain RAPiZZA is getting in on the game with pies that “combine the flavors from India, Korea, Japan, the Middle East, and Mexico with the art of Italian pizza baking.” Launched in December, the company currently has six locations across the province with two in Mississauga, one in Vaughan, and more in the works.

Ruru Baked has set up shop, brick-and-mortar shop for realz, at Bloor and Landsdowne (659 Lansdowne Ave.). Pro tip: Go early/often.

A few weeks ago, I let you in on Chef Andrew Moore’s new concepts Breakfast Club, Dolores, and Good Burgers. Today his Sunday Chicken launches, centered around fried chicken brined overnight with buttermilk and secret blend of spices.

Newsletter subscribers got the scoop this week on exciting new Latin American antojería popup Xolo, launching this weekend at The Little Jerry. Pre-orders are open until Wednesday April 7, 8pm. Ordering on location will also be available with social distancing and other Covid safety protocols in place. Bonus: Get to know the wildly talented chefs behind the project - Ashley McKay and Aldo Camarena in this week’s fascinating At The Pass. 

EVENTS 

Taste of Mississauga is on until May 10.

NEWS

Chef Moffat Kiloh (Lake Inez, The Harbord Room) has passed away.

An outbreak of COVID-19 has been identified at Cafe Landwer’s Vaughan eatery.

Restaurants Canada and the Ontario Restaurant Hotel & Motel Association (ORHMA) sent an open letter to the Premier on behalf of Ontario’s hard-hit foodservice industry, calling on the government to take immediate actions, including supporting restaurants financially to mitigate rising debt, keeping patio dining available “as an alternative to private gatherings, as safe options for enjoying outdoor activities are important for people’s mental health,” and eradicating the 6 per cent markup that restaurants pay for alcohol from the LCBO.  

Antler Kitchen + Bar’s owners Chef Michael Hunter and Jody Shapiro sent Doug Ford a bill for spoilt beer.

ICYMI

Radar alert: Exciting new Latin American antojería popup XOLO is launching this weekend. Get to know the wildly talented chefs behind the project - Ashley McKay and Aldo Camarena - in this week’s fascinating At The Pass. 

Pancakes make people happy. Especially Mildred Temple Kitchen’s Famous Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes. Chef/owner Donna Dooher shares her secret recipe to making pillowy pancakes that you’ll make time and again. Not just for breakfast or brunch either. Get the must-have recipe.

There are many reasons to visit Pepper’s Food & Drink. These are just the beginning.

____  

Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.  

Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.  

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your business, but don’t want to spend a ton? We can help. Get in touch. 

Reach foodies directly. Advertise in the next newsletter or Open/Closed. Space is limited.

At The Pass with Ashley McKay and Aldo Camarena

🕒 11 min read

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.

Currently

Ashley McKay - Cook - Azhar, Xolo

Aldo Camarena - Line Cook, Aspiring Chef - Quetzal, Xolo

Formerly  

AM: Giulietta, Parallel, Leña

AC: Among others, I have worked at Piano Piano, Parallel, NODO, Lil’ Baci Taverna and Beer Bistro.

Favourite dish to make right now

AM: I love cake! Any chance I get to play around desserts in my downtime is time well spent. My sweet tooth will definitely be the death of me, but at least it'll be a good one. 

AC: A nixtamalized corn tortilla from scratch. If you really dive into it, it can be such a fun and engaging process. From the shucking, the cleaning, the nixtamalization, the grinding, the kneading and hydration, the forming of the testal (masa ball), the thickness of the pressing, the technique for placing it, the timing and techniques for cooking it and especially the eating it. This whole process to me is holy, like a reverence to the specific corn you are working with, and it honestly makes me incredibly happy every time.

Last cookbook purchase 

AM: The Last Course: A Cookbook by Claudia Fleming and Melissa Clark.

AC: Ashley just got me Flour Water Salt Yeast: The Fundamentals of Artisan Bread and Pizza by Ken Forkish, which I intend to finish in a binge once the first pop-up is done.

Have you read it/tried any recipes

AM: I haven't made anything yet. Still reading through it, I am enjoying the wine paring snippets throughout.

AC: Not quite, but I had a chance to go learn side-by-side with Matt Lawrence, one of the bakers at Bar Isabel, and having read halfway through the book gave me tons of context for what I was learning.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

AM: I don't care what you put on the menu as long as you're paying your staff well.     

AC: Guacamole. There's a serious, serious deforestation and land erosion problem in Michoacán and several other regions worldwide. This is due to the irresponsible over harvesting of avocado. In a time when the world is seeing mass immigration due to climate injustice, the overindulgence of avocado in Canada and the US is super gross. Many in Mexico, including my family, are seeing this super culturally important fruit disappear from their tables from over-inflated prices and loss of access due to sale to foreign markets and loss of arable farmland. Try subbing avocado for blanched Mexican squash and you can end up with a super similar product! 

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

AM: I would really love to see more chefs in the city pay attention to the seasonality of local produce and the effects our global palates have on the environment.

AC: Manoomin, also known as wild rice. This is a crop that Indigenous people of Canada have been growing for thousands of years. Chefs have a platform, and with that platform, we should be doing more to promote a fair and responsible consumption of local products, especially when consuming them can support indigenous communities and their way of life. If folks want more information, they should Google "Curve Lake Manoomin."

Xolo. Left: Ashley McKay. Right: Aldo Camarena.

Biggest influences

AM: I have been super blessed to have worked with some incredible cooks throughout the years. Some of the most educational experiences have been seeing these cooks put the tips they share with me into practice and succeed night after night.  Most notably, working alongside Aldo has taught me so much. We can both be pretty intense in kitchens, but we work so well together and know exactly how to push each other to achieve our best.

AC: My family. There's a way to do things in my family that translates to anything we do. It is there that I get my work and moral ethic. My wife Ashley is often the reason I do anything now, and every dish I cook or design these days is a love note to her. I look at Ali Grundman and Greg Balingit as chefs who took the time to really help me learn earlier in my career. Finally, a very special mention goes out to Steven Molnar at Quetzal,  and honestly the rest of the team I have had the privilege of working with there.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world 

AM: Central Restaurante in Peru.

AC: Tickets in Barcelona.

Last thing you ate

AM: Fried cheese.

AC:  Jamaican Patty. Spicy beef, of course.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

AM: Butter, garlic, mushrooms.

AC: Limes, garlic, cheese. 

Guilty pleasure

AM: Wint O Green LIfeSavers Mints (they glow in the dark when you bite them), I can so easily crush an entire bag of those in one sitting. Also, bad TV. 

AC: De La Rosa Mazapán at 4am. I keep sneaking them into the house and refilling my large-sized box, so Ashley won't notice just how many of these I've been eating.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

AM: Viaggio, Quetzal, Ramen Isshin

AC: Can I say Quetzal? (Editor’s Note: Absolutely!) Edulis, Tacos Gus, Rasa

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

AM: The Little Jerry, Houndstooth, The Greater Good

AC: The Little Jerry, Houndstooth, The Lab

Go-to drink

AM: Wine, I love tasting new things and learning about what goes into making what ends up in my glass. Also, a good Spanish Fizz will always make my day.

AC: Lambrusco at a wine bar, sour beer at a beer bar, PBR at a dive bar, wild agave mezcal at a tequila bar, and Old Fashioned at a cocktail bar.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

AM: Definitely drinking too much coffee and not enough water.

AC: I magnify my mistakes without ever taking into account the good I do, until frustration has wrecked me up real bad.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

AM: Organization. No matter what the day throws my way, the thing that always pulls me back and keeps me on task is a well thought-out list.

AC: Always leave it better than you found it. Doesn't matter if nobody else notices or cares. You notice. You care. Apply this to everything including yourself and every day will be a day of improvement. It all comes down to the respect with which you treat things and the people in your life. 

Hidden talent

AM: Lists. Even outside of kitchens, I write amazing lists for anything and everything. Also crocheting - it's a great way to level up dexterity.

AC: Tetris and talking in circles about Mexico. I often do both simultaneously.

Best career advice you ever received

AM: Always push harder and be better everyday.

AC: "Work harder than those around you and never hesitate to support people who could depend on you. Be an active member of your community." This was one of the last things my grandfather told me before he passed, pero en español.

Worst career advice you ever received 

AM: So I've been trying to think of bad advice I've received for some time now, and nothing comes to mind. Here's a little advice from me: When you hear bad advice, don't listen.

AC: "Keep your head down and don't ask questions."

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

AM: Write everything down and watch how the people around you are working. They might not always be able to teach you, but there is so much to be learnt from observation. Lists are everything!

Get some really comfortable shoes, they'll make your time in the kitchen so much more enjoyable.

AC: Learn to observe and record your growth. Taste and feel everything multiple times. Take notes and photos of what you do and compare them from time to time. This is how you keen your senses and get really good at things. Otherwise you're just blindly guessing.

———

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration.

To keep up to date, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter. 

Secret Recipe: Mildred’s Famous Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes

Secret Recipe is an ongoing series where Toronto’s top chefs reveal their closely guarded, drool-inducing restaurant recipes to be recreated by you at home.

🕒 4 min read

Is there anything more comforting than a plate of fluffy hot pancakes? Hmmm, no. There are however, a few tips and tricks to getting them just right. Who better to show you the way than Chef Doona Dooher, owner of brunch destination Mildred’s Temple Kitchen.

“Pancakes make people happy,” she says. “Throughout the past few months, through everything that has happened, Mrs. B’s pancake recipe has brought us all together.”

As for the best time to dive into these heavenly stacks, Dooher says, “Pancakes aren’t just for brunch or breakfast. It’s a staple in many people’s households. Whether that be during breakfast, a special brunch for a loved one, pancakes for dinner or all day celebratory pancakes. In the end, do you really need a reason to eat delicious pancakes?”

All that’s required: a few pantry staples and following Chef Dooher’s easy instructions below.

Not up to making them them from scratch? You’re in luck. You can order them right to your door. #brunchgoals.

Mrs. Biederhof’s Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes

Ingredients

¼ cup of white sugar
½ tsp of salt
2 cups of all-purpose flour
2 ¼ tsp of baking powder
½ tsp of baking soda
2 large eggs
2 cups of buttermilk
¼ cup of melted unsalted butter
1 cup of fresh blueberries
And some extra unsalted butter on hand to grease the skillet

Directions

Step 1 

In a large bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder and baking soda.

Step 2

In a separate bowl, beat the eggs with the buttermilk and melted butter.

Step 3

Using a spatula, combine the dry and wet ingredients to make a thick, lumpy batter, taking care not to overmix. The real trick to these is in the mixing. If you overmix the batter, your pancakes won’t be moist and delicate.

Step 4

In a nonstick skillet, melt some butter over medium-high heat. Ladle ⅓ cup of batter into the hot skillet and sprinkle with blueberries. Take care not to overcrowd the skillet, since the pancakes will puff up as they cook.

Step 5

When bubbles appear on the surface of the pancake and the edges begin to brown, flip the pancakes and cook the other side. It should take about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Keep them nice and warm by keeping them in a 250ºF oven.

Step 6

Smother with maple syrup, fresh blueberries, dollop with whipped cream and maybe even a good dusting of icing sugar.

And there you have it! So pat yourself on the back now because you just made your own stack of Mildred’s famous pancakes. Play around with it next time. Fancy some chocolate chips? Go for it. Or some rainbow sprinkles? (ouuuu sprinkles) You, my friend, are the Grand Master. Go ahead and throw them in. However you prefer them, enjoy your delicious fluffy creations. We’ll see you on the other side of all of this. Stay well.

Did you know? Chef Dooher’s famous ‘Mrs. Biederhof’s Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes’ takes its name from the 1945 film, Mildred Pierce, like many other brunch dishes and cocktails (‘Bert’s Back’ is a must) at the restaurant. As for who Mrs. Biederhof is, you’ll have to watch the movie to find out.

———

Mildred’s Temple Kitchen
85 Hanna Ave., Unit 104
(416) 588-5695

Discover other Secret Recipes from top restaurants and chefs across the GTA.

For news, updates, interviews + more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter. 

OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News April 1-7, 2021

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/popups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

🕒 10 min read

First, if you haven’t already heard: Ontario’s going into lockdown as of Saturday, nixing patios and indoor dining for at least the next four weeks. With so much going on and crowds likely to be insane this weekend due to closures and the holidays, it’s the perfect time to skip big grocers and LCBO and shop your locals instead.

Life moves fast these days. And restaurants are opening at light speed – I should know. I wrote about +100 new destinations last month alone. (covering more than any outlet in the city.) You’d better get caught up.

Like most weeks lately, I’ve uncovered more launches than time permits, so get ready. Next week’s already a doozy… In the meantime, here are 20 that I managed to squeeze in before it got dark out.

Whatever you’re celebrating this week – Holi, Passover, Easter – I hope it’s a happy one.

And stay tuned – more news ahead in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the TR newsletter. 

Here’s the very latest:

OPEN

Barbara and Elena cooked back home in Sicily, so launching Arancini Lovers last week to promote their “Sicilian culinary specialty,” was a natural next step. Their handmade rice balls are currently available in six varieties (two vegetarian) in North York for pick up.

Chefs Kate Chomyshyn and Julio Guajard head up Birria Balam (109 Spadina Ave., Unit 147) - a likely-to-break-the-internet popup restaurant with Matty Matheson, focusing mainly on Birria estilo Tijuana, but will also include many traditional dishes found in fondas (small, family-run eateries) in Mexico. Doors open this weekend, but pre-order asap.

New Greek café Boujee Pie is nestled inside Tzatziki Restaurant (873 Pape Ave.), but their takeout window makes it easy to grab Hellenic treats (baked-from-scratch spanakopita, ham & cheese pie, meat pie, desserts, drinks) without having to step indoors.

Buddy's Noodle Bar (3175 Rutherford Rd.) is a delivery-only, build-your-own-noodle bowl concept in Vaughan. Choose flat or round egg noodles, spice level, protein, toppings, and sauce (Sesame Paste, Peanut Butter, Japanese Wafu, Original).

After two years of popups and moving around, Chen Chen's Nashville Hot Chicken has finally settled into a permanent spot. Find them in Parkdale (1184 Queen St. W.) where Convenience Resto Bar once stood. Note: entrance is through the patio on the corner of Queen and Northcote.

The Carbon Bar’s new ghost kitchen, Concept Burger (99 Queen St E.) boasts 11 burgers and two desserts, with a branch at Kitchen Hub (935 The Queensway) in Etobicoke.

Popular plant-based chain Copper Branch has touched down in the Canary District (470 Front St. E.).

Newsletter subscribers got the scoop earlier this week that Craig’s Cookies fourth location (and second during the pandemic) kicks off tomorrow in Leslieville (908 Queen St. E.). Of particular note: Cadbury Crème Egg Cookies - a whole Cadbury Crème Egg enveloped in a Classic Chocolate Chip Cookie! Available for a limited time and likely to sell out in no time.

The Dirty Bird Chicken & Waffles debuted their fourth outpost today at Battleford Centre (6475 Erin Mills Pkwy) in Mississauga.

North York’s Food Fuse Taco & More (4750 Yonge St., Unit 140) offers a bit of everything: fusion tacos (Bulgogi, Banh Mi), beer battered fish and chips, friend chicken sandwich, and vegan selections including salads with fruit-forward vinaigrettes and housemade granola.

Amanda Huang’s latest project, Fresca Dining by Earth Made Kitchen  is a popup restaurant with “Dinner-To-Go” 3-course restaurant-style meal kits made with local products (Couples $70, Family $140), available for pickup at Mess Hall (1386 Gerrard St. E.).

Pre-orders for premium Japanese style bread from Iki Shokupan By J. opened up yesterday. The online bakery in Markham specializes in the iconic soft milk bread made with only natural ingredients and without preservatives.

k.Market  by Chef Ken Yau of k.Dinners and k.Dumps launched today. The online Asian marketplace offers an array of prepared foods and pantry items.

Boba lovers, rejoice. You’ve got another spot to get your fix: Kung Fu Tea (4 Greystone Walk Dr.) in Scarborough.

Munay (881 St. Clair Ave. W.) opened Tuesday. Pro tip: Stock up on as many of Tania Di Blasi’s salteñas as you can carry/will fit in the fridge. Her Bolivian hand-held pastries stuffed with beef, chicken, or mushroom (vegan) will be the highlight of your week.

You heard it here first. Add Nicky P’s Pizza Palace to your to-do list right now. Nick Phillips isn’t a chef. In fact, he’s a licensed electrician that owns and operates a general contracting company. But like many, he loves pizza, so he figured he should learn how to make it. “One little thing lead to an obsession, and now I find myself on the never-ending pursuit of the perfect pizza.” This lead to him making/selling naturally leavened Neapolitan-style pizza out of his backyard in the east end. His next menu (pick up only) drops next week.

Owl of Minerva’s second satellite in Mississauga (3024 Hurontario St.) is holding a grand opening event this weekend: Pork Bone Soup $5.99 and all menu items 20 per cent off , Friday to Sunday.

Canadian delivery-only chain Pie Eyed Pizza (1 Adelaide St. E.) boldly claims to be “the best damn pizza delivery.” Options include ten pies, with two Detroit-style selections.

Street Eats Market’s second location kicks off in Scarborough (520 Progress Ave.) Saturday.

The Wing Shop has taken over Schnitzel Queen’s old digs (211 Queen St. E.). Despite the name, wings aren’t the only thing on the menu. Find wraps, ribs, burgers, quesadillas, and fusion sides including Deep-Fried Cheese Curds, Cajun Perogies, and Smoked Bacon Cheeseburger Poutine.

CLOSED

Cafe Plenty at King and Yonge (1 King St. W.) has shuttered after seven years. Other venues remain, including a recent popup.

Chen Chen's Nashville Hot Chicken has moved on from their Harbourfront space (390 Queens Quay West, Unit 106A).

After seven years, The Citizen (522 King St. W.) is switching things up. Stay tuned.

Kinka Family (JaBistro, Kinka Izayaka, Kinton Ramen, Kintori Yakitori, Neo Coffee Bar) launched four virtual kitchens last fall. One of those concepts, JapaSando & Co., was “retired” at the end of the year.

Yesterday was the last day for three Mean Bao locations: Annex Food Hall, Queen & Broadview, and Village by the Grange. Don’t panic. Three more are on the way. In the meantime, you can visit their Queen & Bathurst venue, popup at Radical Road Brewing, and in May their spot at Bay Adelaide Centre.

EVENTS

The Mississauga Food Bank’s Spring Contactless Drive-Thru Food Drive is Saturday, 10am to 2pm.

NEWS

Kareema Beckles’ restaurant, Chef Kareema, was broken into over the weekend. Twice.

Last week I told you about the outbreak at Oliver's Steakhouse in Oakville. There’s another update.

ICYMI

Wesley Altuna is so damn inspiring. He shares his “magic” ingredients, favourite restaurants, sage advice + more in this week’s At The Pass.

Celebrating Easter this weekend? Or just in need a lot of chocolate to get through all *this*? Support small businesses and buy chocolate from local producers + purveyors. Bonus: Many of the 40 Toronto/GTA chocolatiers deliver.

Please support local businesses whenever possible.

____ 

Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.  

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your business, but don’t want to spend a ton? Get in touch. 

Reach foodies directly. Advertise in the next newsletter or Open/Closed. Space is limited.

At The Pass with Wesley Altuna

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. 

🕒 6 min read

Currently

Cook, Sous Chef, Dishwasher, Delivery Guy, Marketing Manager, Project Manager, Head of Operations and Owner of Bawang

Formerly

Sr. Project Manager and Operations

Favourite dish to make right now

Hmmm... I love making stews. I love how they taste better the next day and even better the day after. I’ve also been doing a lot of experimenting, so that’s always fun, especially when one of them lands the way you envisioned. When that happens, they often make it to our menu.

Last cookbook purchase

I’ve never purchased a cookbook. A lot of the recipes I have, I inherited from my grandparents and my brother who are all amazing cooks. In the process, I would expand on those recipes by adding/adjusting ingredients, creating my own flavours without pulling away from the traditional flavours and integrity of the dish. This includes techniques, tips and secrets.

Have you read it/tried any recipes 

All these recipes are in my head lol. From time to time, I would call my grandma or my brother (since my grandfather passed away) if I need guidance. So in a way, they are my “cookbooks” lol.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Pickles. I just don’t like them, sorry.  

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

This may sound a little biased, but I would love to see more Filipino dishes presented in various interpretations from traditional, fusion, modern, and contemporary. It’s already happening... we need more of it.

Biggest influences

My grandparents: cooking. My brother: grit. My son: kind- hearted. My partner: logical. My two silent mentors: Joel and Arnold.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world 

Toyo Eatery in Makati, Philippines. They're doing something special out there... will definitely be stopping by there post-Covid.

Last thing you ate

Leftovers from our last service: Garlic Fried Rice, Pancit Bihon Canton, and Lechon Kawali... and oh, our dessert of the week, Bibingka Royal.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Tomato, onions, and garlic. I call this the “magic circle.” These three ingredients can be translated to an infinite amount of dishes. Hence the term “magic circle” - circle being endless, infinite.

Bawang’s Ukoy. Crispy fried fritters with unshelled shrimp, calabaza, sweet potato, onions, and green papaya.

Guilty pleasure

I have a sweet tooth - desserts, chocolates, ice cream, pancakes. I’ve been treating myself to Chatime twice a week, at least lol. I also love savoury pastries - sausage rolls, meat pies, empanadas. Anything buttery, crumbly, light, flaky I will crush in my mouth!

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants 

In no particular order: Banjara, Playa Cabana, Pai Northern Thai Kitchen or Sukhothai.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars 

Peoples Eatery (RIP), Cold Tea, and Mahjong Bar.

Go-to drink

Double Single Malt Scotch, no ice. 

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Overthinking.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

Grit.

Hidden talent

Social Intelligence. I’m pretty good at establishing relationships and navigating social environments. I’m not sure if this is a talent but I’m definitely very comfortable and natural in a social setting.  

The other is cooking, which is no longer “hidden” lol.

Best career advice you ever received

“If you know how to cook, you will never starve” - my older brother, Edmar.  

Worst career advice you ever received

“Why would you want to leave? You have good benefits, make good money…”  People that project their fears onto you. 

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business 

This shit ain’t easy. You have to really love it, otherwise it won’t taste good - to you and the customer.

Be a sponge. Ask lots of questions. Pay attention. Cooking is one thing, learning the business side is another - know both.

Don’t half step. If you’re going to do it, do it to the fullest and see it right through. Where you stop is how far you’ll get. Only you can decide if your cup is full.

Trust your gut.

——— 

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.     

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OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News March 25-31, 2021

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/popups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

🕒 11.5 min read

Happy Nowruz to everyone celebrating!

Speaking of celebrations, as you can see below, there’s a lot to celebrate this week. With +25 destinations to add to your list, the only question is, Where to first?

And stay tuned – more news ahead in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the TR newsletter.  

In the meantime, here’s the very latest:

OPEN

Laura worked in hospitality for +20 years in FOH (front of house) - managing night clubs, restaurants, hotel outlets and event spaces - before launching Babeo's Bagels last week. Current lineup: Everything, Onion, Poppy (6/$8,12/$15).

Breakfast Club (303 King St. W.) is an all-day breakfast delivery pop-up. What more could you ask for?

Café on the Hill (916 Eglinton Ave. W.) at Bathurst and Eglinton really does have it all. The family-run coffee shop nestled in Forest Hill carries carbon neutral, fair trade, organic and recyclable items, French and Italian pastries, Nespresso coffee, Nunshen tea, bubble tea, and hand-crafted gift baskets. 

Shop a mix of pantry items, prepared foods, baked treats, and array of beverages at Plenty Market and Café (138 Danforth Ave.) by Cafe Plenty at Broadview and Danforth. It’s a six-month popup for now, but could be extended.

Radar alert: You’ve got to act fast to get in on CocoHOT’s next popup. The reward? Unforgettable halal Tamil fusion fare. Bonus: $1 from every sandwich sold is donated to FoodShare Toronto. Details to be announced soon.

Pesky bones getting in the way of your enjoyment of fried chicken? Craving Fried Chicken (369A Church St.) has a solution.

Dave's Genuine Jewish Deli (930 St. Clair Ave. W.) in Hillcrest Village offers housemade deli fare for take away; chef prepared meals, fresh meat and seafood for delivery.

The stunning new De Mello Coffee x Chocolat de Kat (824 St. Clair Ave. W.) is heeeeeere! Grand opening celebrations take place tomorrow and Saturday with free coffee and caramel bon bons.

Dolores is one of many new concepts by Chef Andrew Moore, formerly Executive Chef of Avling Kitchen and launch team at Momofuku. Named after Dolores Park in San Francisco, the delivery-only resto takes inspiration from the localized style of Mexican cuisine offered by the famed neighbourhood’s taquerias.

Flora’s Deli, Italian sando popup by Chef Jesse Mutch with partners Tommy Conrad & Ailbhe McMahon, at Mahjong Bar (1276 Dundas St. W.) is just what this week – and picnics - calls for.

Shauna Godfrey - CIA grad, former sous chef at Momofuku Kojin and cook at NYC’s Michelin Atera – runs a club you def want to be a part of. See: Godfreys Supper Club.

Good Burgers is built around the classic American Cheeseburger. Think: patty of ground chuck and brisket, topped with American cheese and all the fixins. You’ll also find a chicken sando, ball game cheese dog, grilled cheese, and sides.

Love natural wine? Local brews? You and Green Apple Bottle Shop (3324 Dundas St. W.) in The Junction were made for each other.

Impression 1915 (189 Dundas St. W.) offers a wide array of drool-inducing dishes. Lotus Seed Paste Bun, Shanxi Cold No-Wheat Noodles, Baked Osmanthus Bean Paste Patty, and Salty Chicken Slice with Rich Porridge, are just the beginning.

Kitchen Hub ,“Canada's first virtual food hall,” debuted in Cabbagetown (234 Parliament St.) yesterday. Choose offerings from Chubby’s Jamaican Kitchen, Ben & Jerry’s, The Cheesecake Factory Bakery, Daan Go Macarons, Greenhouse Juice Co., and S’More Convenience.

Meena Sharma of Meena’s Kitchen has been teaching Indian cooking at the Toronto District School Board since 2006 and private classes prior to the pandemic. Her Punjabi vegetarian fare such as Chota ($45) and Bhada ($66) Meals feed two or more and come with reheating instructions. Add-ons are also available.

Nile River Restaurant (598 College St.) in Little Italy “strives to be a pioneer in bringing rustic Mediterranean cuisine to a new level of elegance and sophistication.” Select from homestyle pita sandwiches, burgers, loaded fries, salads, and vegetarian /meat/seafood appetizers, sides and mains.

Say hello to your new shopping destination: Pepper’s Food & Drink (189 Wallace Ave.), a Korean bodega by the folks behind Hanmoto, Pinky’s Ca Phe, and Seoul Shakers. Pro tip: Be sure to load up on Umma’s while you’re there.

Renegade Chicken’s new virtual kitchens are everywhere: +20 virtual outposts across Ontario, including 11 located either downtown Toronto or surrounding areas, and a recent popup at the St. Lawrence Market (73 Front St. E.). Fun fact: The fried chicken concept uses free-run, antiobiotic-free Canadian birds.

From the You-Need-This-In-Your-Life Dept: Chef Holger Schoorl worked in restaurants for +20 years, notably Enoteca Sociale and Bar Vendetta, so you know his handmade pasta are what dreams are made of. I’m talking Guitar String Spaghetti, Parsnip Agnolini, Stamppot Culurgiones, and Chicken Cacciatore Mezzaluna. Grab them all (and then some) at Rockwell Pasta, his new venture with wife Katie Swift.

Salad King’s long awaited second location debuted yesterday at Queen & McCaul (224 Queen St. W.).

The second outpost of Thai and Malayaisn eatery thairoomgrand  just landed at Avenue Road and Eglinton (288 Eglinton Ave. W.).

You’re spoiled for choice at Northern Chinese restaurant Tianjin Auntie's Steamed Bun (77 Huron St.) in the heart of Chinatown. I’ve got my eyes on Handmade jianbing with crispy filling and steamed pork buns, Chicken Feet with Pickled Peppers, and Tianjin Style Vinegar Pepper Soup.

Dat used to be a cook back in the day at JJ Mugs (winding staircase, dark wood, green carpet, riiiight?). He’s brought Chef Aron on board for his new healthy Asian noodle soup enterprise, Tong Mein in Riverside (639 Queen St. E., rear entrance behind Album Hair).

The menu at “Canada’s first organic vegan delivery-based restaurant” True Flavours (1311 Queen St. E., enter on Laing) in Leslieville includes Cabbage Rolls ($19.99), Garlic & Chive Gnocchi ($21.99), and Lentil & Vegetable Lasagna ($24.75). 

CLOSED

Better stock up. Godiva is shuttering all 128 brick-and-mortar stores in North America, including 11 in Canada on March 31.

Both locations of The Green Wood -1402 Queen St. E., 461 King St. W.- have closed, as the company focuses “on next steps of The Green Wood as a whole.”

EVENTS

To kick off the International Restaurant Popup series at Boukan, esteemed Chef Staël  takes over the kitchen this weekend with mouth-watering Creole plant-based offerings.

The Cheat Day by Tokyo Hot Fried Chicken x Camp Smokehouse is a one-day-only wonder of Nashville Hot Chicken Sandwich meets Smoked Beef Brisket named for Johnny L and his unbelievable culinary feats (I’m currently “in training”). They’re available for pre-order tomorrow until they sell out.   

NEWS

Ontario restaurant workers will receive priority COVID-19 vaccinations - after teachers, child care, food plant and agricultural workers.

Oliver's Steakhouse in Oakville temporarily closed due to a COVID-19 outbreak. Oakville News provided an update earlier this week.

Bunner’s Bake Shop’s Kensington location is temporarily closed due to an employee  testing positive for COVID-19. They hope to reopen on Tuesday.

Sanagan’s Meat Locker in Kensington had a second employee test positive for COVID-19. Owner Peter Sanagan posted a thorough breakdown of the experience including “learnings from Toronto Public Health” on the shop’s website “to help alleviate the general confusion, fear, and stress.” Via social media he said, “I think [it] may help our customers understand the Sanagan's Covid-19 best practices and policies, and may help other small businesses understand what to do if a worker becomes infected, and to prevent Covid-19 from spreading in a workplace. It is important to note that this information is our personal experience at Sanagan's, and small businesses should always contact Toronto Public Health when there is a Covid-19 case in the workplace. I truly believe that transparency and knowledge reduce anxiety at stressful times.”

Top Toronto chefs Justin Cournoyer, Adrian Forte, Jason Sheardown, and Craig Wong contributed to new zero-waste digital cookbook IKEA ScrapsBook. 

Here’s what’s gone down so far with Cinnamon Toast Crunch Shrimp Gate.

I’m not making this up. Miller Lite launched a line of candles called  Bar Smells.

What would it take for you to ?

Are you down with eating leather?

INDUSTRY HEAD’S UP

The CEBA Application period has been extended.

ICYMI 

Patios are back. Some, anyway. Stay tuned. More to come.

There are only a few weeks left to get in on Wednesday Night Special.

Chef Sam La of Mira Mira has a penchant for strong coffee, takeout from beloved Asian restaurants, and marine gastropods. Discover more in this week’s stellar At The Pass.

Inquiring minds want to know: Do grapes belong on pizza?

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Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.  

Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.  

Hear of a place that’s about to launch or just shuttered? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your business without spending a whack of dough? Get in touch. 

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