Stephanie Dickison's Blog, page 36
February 11, 2021
Open/Closed: Toronto Restaurant News February 11-17, 2021
Photo courtesy of Karahi Boys.
🕒 8 min read
This weekend is chockablock with reasons to celebrate - Lunar New Year, Valentine’s Day, and Family Day obvs - and the 17 arrivals below.
Happy Everything.
Here’s the very latest:
OPEN
The frenzy over Toronto’s first Windsor-style pizzeria, Ambassador Pizza Co. (946 Bloor St. W.) at Bloor and Dovercourt is well underway, so it might be a while before you can dig in.
Lorenzo Loseto, executive chef of George Restaurant, was making hand-crafted, small batched gelato and sorbetto during lockdown last year, so I made sure to add it my burgeoning list of spots to get ice cream and frozen treats across the GTA. The launch of Alberobello Gelato (111 Queen St. E.) is now official.
Arepatite by El Venezolano (2523 Yonge St.), the new concept by El Venezolano (818 Danforth Ave.) debuted a few months back. The uptown eatery is easy to spot (pink façade) and features enticing handheld items (e.g. arepas, empanadas, tequeños, churros).
Debbie Arnold grew up working and helping out at her parent’s family restaurant, Bridgeland, so launching food co. bakLOVEa, was practically written in the stars. Her homemade baklava became a full-on business this week after friends and family couldn’t get enough of her sweet, flaky pastries. Stay tuned, new flavours are in the works.
After letting you in on Biscotti Queen’s V-Day preview a few week's back, I’m happy to report the biscotti cookie biz by mother-daughter team Nancy and Jill launches Sunday, with pickups at The Windsor Arms Hotel (18 St. Thomas St.).
Castle & Coal (108 Dovercourt Rd.) at Queen and Dovercourt quietly opened December 16, so you’ve got some catching up to do. A good place to start? With Kouign Amann ($7.50), Cinnamon Sugar Brioche ($7.50), Chocolate Dipped Honeycomb ($7.25), Lemon Tart ($6.75), or Sticky Toffee Pudding with Butterscotch Sauce ($5) in hand.
Fried chicken sandos are the name of the game at Chick Magnet inside The Beverley Hotel (335 Queen St. W.).
A CoCo Fresh Tea & Juice sprouted up in Thornhill just last month, but there’s already another (11 Disera Dr., Unit 260) to add to your list.
If you read my wings article earlier this week, you’d already know about F.ing Bomb Fried Chicken, the new ghost kitchen inside Hapa Izakaya (602 College St.).
Find Korean Mexican popup Gogi Guys at Mississauga’s Texas Longhorn Grill (1077 North Service Rd.) starting Tuesday at 4pm.
Psst. House Scoops by ex-Buca Yorkville chef Mathew Cribari is the new home gelateria that should be on your radar.
There’s not a plethora of authentic Lahori food in the downtown core, so the arrival of Karahi Boys at Queen and Dovercourt (741 Queen St. W., where Nando’s used to be) is cause for celebration. This marks the fourth location for the chain and first in Toronto.
Kibo Sushi House continues its expansion across the GTA with a satellite in Woodbridge (9587 Weston Rd., Unit 4).
As you can see, Kung Fu Tea has kept me hopping these last few years. The trend continues, this time with a shop in Scarborough (2361 Brimley Rd., Unit 5A).
Lavash (2746 Victoria Park Ave.), an authentic Armenian eatery in North York, came onto the scene in November. The extensive menu ranges from Muhammara ($7) and Filet Mignon Combo for One ($17) to Combo for 8 ($198) and Valentine’s Combo for 4 ($99).
In December, Jimmy Donaldson, aka viral sensation/YouTuber MrBeast, unleashed 300 delivery-only MrBeast Burger restaurants in the U.S. This week, multiple ghost kitchens launched in existing venues across Toronto. The menu consists mainly of smash burgers, chicken sarnies, and grilled cheese on an inverted bun.
Originally set to debut last spring, Pizzeria Libretto’s Junction joint (3011 Dundas St. W.) is finally open.
CLOSED
SIR Corp shuttered two Canyon Creek eateries last month. The restaurant group with Duke’s Refresher Bar, Jack Astor’s, Loose Moose, Reds, and Scaddabush amongst its portfolio, announced on Tuesday the immediate permanent closure of all three properties at Yonge and Gerrard: Scaddabush Italian Kitchen & Bar, Reds Midtown Tavern, and Duke's Refresher & Bar.
EVENTS
February Festival of Food, a virtual event by the Scarborough Business Association, launches tomorrow.
Taste of Oakville kicks off Monday.
The National Chowder Chowdown Festival continues until the end of the month.
NEWS
Ontario’s stay at home orders for Toronto, Peel, and York have been extended for two weeks, while places such as New York and Alberta resume indoor dining.
National Geographic just named Toronto as one of the best cities for vegans.
The latest Bon Appetit snafu entangled Toronto chef Charlotte Langley.
The world needs all the Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy it can get right now. The new show is also the perfect excuse to whip up one of his famous cocktails.
ICYMI
Earlier this week, the government announced NHL players are permitted to dine inside select bars and restaurants while the public remains restricted to eat in their homes and cars.
The Tragically Hip launched a lawsuit against Mill Street Brewery regarding their ‘100th Meridian’ Amber Lager. The iconic Canadian band released a statement to newsletter subscribers earlier this week, saying in part, “Many of you are probably under the impression that we are associated with Mill Street’s 100th Meridian beer – we are not.” According to the band, the brewery used their name, CDs “and even Gord Downie’s picture on their social media” in connection with the brew.
Award-winning chef Noel Cunningham just launched his new resto Cuisine by Noel, but made time to share some sage advice, a simple yet smashing cocktail recipe, favourite spots around town + more in this week’s At The Pass.
While other outlets scrambled to pull together limited-time Super Bowl offerings, I though it best to focus on standout wings you can order any day.
If you haven’t already subscribed to the newsletter, now’s the time. Get The Tip Off, a sneak peek at the upcoming Open/Closed (because who doesn’t want to be the first to know?), and fab deals and special offers from restaurants and local businesses (because who doesn’t want to save money?), all exclusive to subscribers.
Please support local businesses whenever possible.
____
Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.
Life moves fast. Don’t miss out. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.
Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Want to spread the word about your business directly to foodies without spending $$$? Get in touch.
Reach foodies directly. Advertise in the next newsletter or Open/Closed. Space is limited.
February 8, 2021
At The Pass with Noel Cunningham
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.
🕒 6 min read
Currently
Executive chef/owner Cuisine by Noel, food writer, culinary consultant.
Formerly
I’ve worked in several hotels and restaurants in Winnipeg and Thompson in Manitoba before relocating to Toronto in June 2019.
Favourite dish to make right now
My favourite dish to make now is my Coconut Fried Jerk Chicken And Festival Waffle at my restaurant. I love to see the excitement on everyone’s face when they give it a try or even talk about the sweet, spicy and savoury combination.
Last cookbook purchase
Fantastical Cakes: Incredible Creations for the Baker in Anyone by Gesine Bullock-Prado
Have you read it/tried any recipes
Not as yet, but it’s awesome with lots of great tips and tricks.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
None at the moment, I believe every ingredient has its time and place.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
I would love to see more Jamaican restaurants serve ackee on their menu. It's versatile, but also underrated by persons outside of the culture. But I believe if we push it and introduce it more, then it will be a hit. Ackee is part of the national dish of Jamaica.
Biggest influences
In the culinary world I have so many from Rachael Ray and Bobby Flay to David Chang and Marcus Samuelsson. I love everything these chefs are doing and how they have grown over the years.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
L'Astrance. They offer the ultimate fine dining in Paris.
Last thing you ate
Spicy curried chicken with rice and peas. The spicy curried chicken is a Tuesday special on my menu that I cooked.
Coconut Fried Jerk Chicken & Festival Waffle at Cuisine By Noel.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
Scotch bonnet pepper, my jerk marinade, and avocado.
Guilty pleasure
Jamaican rum cake. It’s my favourite dessert and it’s my weakness. It’s a fruit cake that is made with lots of rum and fruit wine.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
360 Restaurant at the CN Tower - I love the ambiance, the view, and fresh seasonal menu.
The Keg Mansion - Nice ambiance and sophisticated menu that fits any occasion.
Chubby's Jamaican Kitchen - Nice elevated Jamaican food and ambiance.
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
I haven’t explored much since I moved to Toronto, but after this pandemic is over, I’ll be in the street bar hopping.
Go-to drink
I love a good Rum Punch with some flavours. Or simple two ounces of rum on the rocks with three drops of Angostura Bitters, topped off with coconut water.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
Blasting my music, lol.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
Good time management, I think. Time management is key by having all your dishes ready on time with good execution.
Hidden talent
I think it’s singing. I can’t seem to find it lol, but I love singing and music.
Best career advice you ever received
The best career advice I got was at a roundtable at a conference. I was having a one on one convo with someone and she mentioned the power of asking for what you want. I honestly left that conference empowered, bold and ready. It’s working.
Worst career advice you ever received
That you need stability to succeed. I believe gone are the days you stuck and work one place for 20 and 30 years. It’s just not for me, and especially my industry that is always evolving.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
My advice to young cook is to have a vision for your life, stick to what you are good at, but always leave room for growth, and everything you do - give it your best shot.
———
In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.
For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.
February 6, 2021
The Dish - 20 standout wings to order for takeout and delivery
Photo courtesy of Hanmoto.
🕒 6.5. min read
Wings are a quintessential part of any game-watching event, big or small. Popular for laid-back lockdown weekend eats, they’re a perfect pairing for whenever you’re binge-watching these days.
Go beyond the usual suspects and wing-centric joints and discover bars and restaurants across the GTA with inventive, lip-smacking, mouth-watering, finger-licking options available for takeout and delivery.
Bonus: You don’t have to wait for a national sports event to enjoy these tantalizing, pile-o-napkins-required bites.
Dyno Wings, on the menu at since the get-go in 2015, have received countless accolades over the year, achieving iconic status. Dishes don’t always stand the test of time, but the lavish concoction - gyoza stuffed wings lacquered in a spicy-sweet soy glaze, drizzled with kewpie mayo, finished with julienned nori and pickled chilies – is still notable six years on.
The Dundas West sports bar offers Chicken Wings and Crispy Cauliflower with sauces you’re likely to see elsewhere - Honey Garlic, Franks, Jerk - alongside significant others Char Sui and Dry Pastrami Rub.
ISO intense heat? May I suggest Throat Puncher and Tonawanda Hot. Just don’t touch your eyes when the tears emerge.
Chef specialties shouldn’t be overlooked or passed over for crowd-pleasers. Case in point: Chef's Fried Rice & Wings at Davielle Rose’s popular destination for immensely comforting fare.
She also pairs her wings with decadent Alfredo Pasta, Mac & Cheese and inserts six buffalo wings in the Fully Loaded Mac, boasting cheese-laden elbow pasta, four jumbo Cajun shrimp, and Dav's Secret Spicy Sauce for a feast that’s sure to end up in an unscheduled slumber.
Capons - larger than chickens and prized for their rich flavour and tender, juicy meat - might just ruin you for the more common day-to-day variety.
Thus, Manhattan Capon Wings, a staple on the menu at the Danforth haunt for roughly 25 years, smothered in a sauce with a slight kick and served with blue cheese dressing, should definitely be on your radar.
Chen Chen’s Nashville Hot Chicken
Nashville Hot Chicken isn’t just having a moment - it’s a whole movement. Get in on the craze with CC’s Nashville Hot Wings marinated in buttermilk, dredged in a secret blend of spices, tossed in your choice of heat, and served atop a slice white bread with pickles.
Veg counterpart - Nashville Kung Pao Cauliflower Wings - features the cruciferous veg slathered in sweet and spicy chili garlic sauce, sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds and green onions.
The new ghost kitchen inside Hapa Izakaya dedicated solely to crispy, crunchy fried chicken, douses fried drums and flats in your choice of 13 varieties of sauce, including rarely seen Garlic Parmesan, Adobo, and Banana Ketchup.
Butter Chicken Wings by the Canadian chain feature the intensely rich tomato, butter and cream sauce you can’t get enough of.
Lovers of Jamaican staple jerk chicken will want to get in on paradise on a plate by way of Jerk Wings from the Caribbean spot at the edge of Regent Park and Cabbagetown.
Thai street style Shaken Wings – fried then tossed with a medley of spices – are a specialty of the Toronto chain. Fans of Thai hot and sour soup should hit up the Tom Yum, boasting fragrant lemongrass, Makrut lime leaves and chilies. Other out-of-the-box flavours include Cheese, Super Cheese, Sour Cream, Pizza, Larb, Seaweed, Wazabi, Truffle, Grilled Squid, and Salted Egg Yolk. Intense heat-lovers should look to the Spicy Mala for an exhilarating lip-tingling, mouth-numbing experience.
Prefer Saucy Wings? Pick from an intriguing lineup including Pad Thai, Green Curry, and Coconut Bean Paste.
If you like your meat infused with serious smoke, Smoqued Chicken Wings are for you: Marinated for 48 hours in fresh herbs and seasonings, dry rubbed, treated to a smoke-filled sauna courtesy of red oak and sugar maple, and accompanied by veg and creamy dill sauce.
Satiating your need for something fiery with flavourful depth can be difficult. Sticky Suya Hot Wings with hot honey and Yaaji spice peanut rub checks all the boxes.
"Pok Pok" Wings at the Bloor and Ossington Vietnamese eatery possess a tangy sweet and sour profile thanks to tamarind and kho quet - a sticky caramelized fish sauce normally reserved for dipping steamed vegetables into or found at the bottom of a pot of crunchy rice. The gluten-free dish is finished with a dusting of roasted peanuts, fried shallots and garlic, and lime.
The Hole In The Wall | Botham’s
The stalwart bar in The Junction and new sister restaurant upstairs boasts Buffalo Confit Duck Wings on the menu.
Duck offers a more robust flavour than chicken, and confit results in rich, tender meat. Tossed in a classic Buffalo sauce and served with crudités and ranch dressing, the dish is elevated while still delivering a sporty vibe.
Tandoori Wings from the Jane and Bloor resto are marinated, intensely seasoned with aromatic spices, and cooked “Indian style.” Select your heat level: medium or spicy.
———
Note: Menu items, ingredients, and availability all subject to change.
Explore more of The Dish.
To keep up to date, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.
February 4, 2021
Open/Closed: Toronto Restaurant News February 4-10, 2021
🕒 8.5 min read
It’s finally warmed up, spring is coming early, holidays galore are on the approach (Super Bowl, Lunar New Year, Valentine’s) and this week’s 23 arrivals offer countless mouth-watering options for takeaway and delivery across the GTA this week.
THINGS ARE DEF LOOKING UP!
Here’s the very latest:
OPEN
Pro tip: Shop The Abibiman Online Marketplace by The Abibiman Project - a non-profit African Culinary Education Initiative by Rachel Adjei, in support of The Afri-Can FoodBasket, which debuted earlier this week
Kinka Family (JaBistro, Kinka Izayaka, Kinton Ramen, Kintori Yakitori, Neo Coffee Bar) launched two virtual kitchens in November. Two more quickly followed: Japanese torched sando spot Aburi Bunz (51 Baldwin St.) and Hashiya Japanese Pasta Bar.
Back to the Pasta feeds your need for noods with elevated options – e.g. Bronze Die-Extruded Linguine ($9), Braised Beef Ravioli ($15), Rapini Pesto & Sausage ($15/$28) – and a pasta kit to end all pasta kits: Blueberry Fettuccine with King Cole Duck Ragu for Two ($35). Oomph.
Beefing With 7’s new Richmond Hill outpost (9021 Leslie St., Unit 4) is the sixth for the Hong Kong style chain in the GTA.
Live out all your chocolate dreams with Belgian waffles, fondue, dessert pizza, and 20 varieties of hot chocolate at the first Ontario branch of Quebec-based chocolaterie and ice cream shop Chocolato in Oakville (236 Lakeshore Rd. E.).
Fried (241 Richmond St. W.) kicks off today with halal fried chicken every which way – sandos, Nashville hot, wings, bites, poutine – and classic sides.
Fruitomann at Square One (100 City Centre Dr.) goes beyond the usual smoothie offerings with additional selections of lassi, fruit and bubble tea.
Carbo-loading just got a lot easier, thanks to the assortment of pasta and panini at Golosità (3187 Yonge St.) in Lawrence Park.
Bring back the days of summer with Good Behaviour Ice Cream by Michael Lam, CDC at Ascari King, and industry vet Eric Chow. Psst. Find them on my ever-expanding Ultimate Guide to Ice Cream + Frozen Treats in Toronto/GTA.
It seems only yesterday Isaan Der landed in The Junction (I checked my notes. It was actually 2017). The third outpost of Northeastern Thai eatery - launches tomorrow at 5pm in Ruby Watchco’s old digs (730 Queen St. E.) at Queen and Broadview.
The advent of the first overseas location of Michelin bib gourmand listed Konjiki Ramen back in 2017 caused quite a frenzy – lineups for days. While excitement for the third satellite - Markham (115 Times Ave.) - remains, contending with crowds is a thing of the past.
La Latina (150 Eglinton Ave. E.) debuted Midtown on December 3 between Yonge and Mount Pleasant, with a tantalizing menu: Salt Cod Fritters ($14), Cubano on housemade bread ($16), Beef and Cassava ($21), Taco Kits ($23-$30), Smoked Half Chicken ($23), Pineapple Parfait ($7), Guava Cheesecake ($13). Their Valentine’s Menu doesn’t disappoint either.
Macho Fried Rice - founded in Hangzhou, China in 2015 - speedily built an empire with +300 locations across the globe, including the recent addition in North York (5418 Yonge St., Unit 3).
Mandi Afandi (64 Overlea Blvd., Unit 10) in East York’s Thorncliffe Park specializes in Arabian cuisine. Dig into specialties such as Emirati delicacy Madfoon ($8.99-$14.99), Sayadiyah ($17.99), and Zurbian ($20.99).
Saturday marked the first day for Montreal Style BBQ at Pape and Danforth, where Astoria (679 Danforth Ave.) once stood. Many more are in the works.
Munch Okashi has got you when it comes to daifukumochi ($17/6, $30/12) and ichigo daifuku ($3.50/1, $20/6, $36/12).
ISO halal certified meat? The second Paramount Butcher Shop by Paramount Fine Foods debuts today at Mississauga’s Meadowvale Town Centre (6720 Meadowvale Town Centre Circle) at 1pm.
How cool is this? Local musicians Dave Barnes and Meghan Parnell just launched their own small batch coffee roastery, Parkside Grind Coffee Roasters.
Can’t stop, won’t stop. Just two weeks ago, I caught you up on all that Rico Burrito has been up to lately (it’s a LOT). They just added Yonge & Rosedale to the list.
Deciding between smash burgers and fried chicken is like trying to pick a favourite child. Sammy’s (1087 Queen St. W.) by Otto’s Bierhalle means never having to choose.
Tommy Cafe, Montreal’s all-day brunch and coffee destination, found a home in downtown Oakville (236 Lakeshore Rd. E.).
Toro Toro Sushi (3175 Rutherford Rd., Unit 40, Building H) in Vaughan hasn’t quite opened doors yet, but pre-orders for their stunning Valentine’s sushi boxes has begun.
CLOSED
Godiva is shuttering all 128 stores in North America, including 11 in Canada, by March.
EVENTS
You’ve got until Sunday to get in on La Poutine Week.
This year’s National Chowder Chowdown Festival features a number of Toronto chefs.
NEWS
A recipe by Yasmen De Leon, owner of Toronto’s Comal y Camela has been included in Taste from Home, a free digital cookbook by The UN Refugee Agency Canada to celebrate its 70th anniversary.
#SupportLocal. Riverside BIA and Queen Street West BIA created #LoveonQueen, a month-long celebration of Queen Street businesses with 28 days of giveaways.
Get a sneak peek of 160-room hotel ANDAZ TORONTO, slated to open 2023.
Does food stick to your non-stick pan? It’s not just you (phew) and Czech scientists are on the case.
Places across the U.S. are easing restrictions on restaurant dining: D.C. is allowing 25% indoor capacity, with outdoor dining permitted in California. And New York City is set to reopen indoor dining at reduced capacity (25%) on Valentine’s Day if case numbers hold. In Canada, Quebec residents can dine indoors at restaurants located in oranges zones, with various restrictions in place.
Dun-Dunn.
ICYMI
Ordering breakfast in used to be an indulgence - or guilty expense after a night of indulgence. Now that we’re stuck indoors, it’s taken on a more significant role.
Chef Anya Zaporozhchenko of Burdock shares many details, including her guilty pleasure - “I’m not above a chain pizza shop Hawaiian slice with garlic dip” - In this week’s At The Pass.
If you haven’t already subscribed to the newsletter, now’s the time. Get The Tip Off, a sneak peek at the upcoming Open/Closed (because who doesn’t want to be the first to know?), and fab deals and special offers from restaurants and local businesses (because who doesn’t want to save money?), all exclusive to subscribers.
Please support local businesses whenever possible.
____
Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.
Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.
Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your business without spending $$$? Get in touch.
Reach foodies directly. Advertise in the next newsletter or Open/Closed. Space is limited.
January 31, 2021
At The Pass with Anya Zaporozhchenko
🕒 4 min read
Currently
Chef, Burdock
Formerly
Dreyfus, Osteria Rialto, Le Swan
Favourite dish to make right now
Quince cake with almond cream
Last cookbook purchase
Claire Saffitz’s Dessert Person. No regrets!
Have you read it/tried any recipes
I’m baking my way through it and every single one so far is incredible. I recommend starting from the Poppy Seed Bundt.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
Turned vegetables! Good knife work should minimize waste, not highlight it.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
Cabbage! As a Russian, I am so happy it’s finally getting some recognition.
Biggest influences
As far as people I’ve never met go, my influences are Angela Dimayuga and Christina Tosi. But real life is so much more formative. I’ve had the fine fortune of working with some really incredible women in this industry who have also blown me away - namely Emma Herrera, Jill Barber, and Jen Agg. I am also endlessly inspired by all the other young chefs around me who are opening restaurants, building community fridges, and making food zines.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
There are two spots that have been on my watchlist for a while now: Kachka in Portland and Apteka in Pittsburgh. I want to see more creative Eastern European cooking!
Last thing you ate
Filet-o-Fish.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
Capers, butter, white wine.
Guilty pleasure
Junk food. I’m not above a chain pizza shop Hawaiian slice with garlic dip.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
Donna’s, Taverne Bernhardt’s, Albert’s Real Jamaican
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
Am I allowed to say Burdock? [Editor’s note: YES!] Otherwise, Civil Liberties, Paradise Grapevine, and The Little Jerry.
Go-to drink
Dirty Vodka Martini, extra olives.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
Smoke breaks! Eleven days into the new year and so far so good.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
Spontaneously bringing in fun ingredients just to play with. I miss the farmers’ market.
Hidden talent
I can make Italian meringue without a working stand mixer.
Best career advice you ever received
Carry yourself with confidence in the kitchen. Any kitchen. This was told to me by Zach Kolomeir (chef/owner of Dreyfus).
Worst career advice you ever received
Don’t work at a place where you’ve already worked. There’s nothing wrong with returning to home base and doing a hard reset.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
Buy yourself one great chef’s knife. Don’t let anyone convince you that you need fancy toys to make it in this industry. Don’t pretend to be someone else to survive. Listen to your body, it knows a lot about you. It’s never too late to take up yoga.
———
In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.
For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.
January 28, 2021
Open/Closed: Toronto Restaurant News January 28-February 3, 2021
🕒 11 minute read
With the state of emergency and stay-at-home order extended, you might feel like there’s not much going on in your world, but as you’ll see below, the culinary landscape in Toronto and surrounding areas has exploded.
I present 28 places - and the fab hard-working folks behind them - to brighten your stay-at-home winter days.
Here’s the very latest:
OPEN
Toronto offers every imaginable iteration of coffeeshop. See: new steampunk café Atlantis Coffee Co (1605 Queen St. W., Unit 2) in Parkdale.
Bar Catalina (231 Lakeshore Rd. E.) in Mississauga features reasonably-priced paellas ($22-$25) by chef Humberto Sanchez, whose resume boasts DiverXO - Madrid’s only 3 Michelin-star restaurant - and Miami’s luxe Biltmore Hotel. Hot tip: His Gourmet Guyz food truck currently has Ghost Kitchen chicken sandos.
I’ve been eagerly awaiting the next project by chef Timothy Lampitoc after tucking into his stellar Filipino fare at Cass Avenue (shuttered last year). Thus, I’m stoked about his launch of “woozy” bottles of Bad Intentions Hot Sauce ($12/5 oz), available in three heat levels - Simp, Tough Guy, Reckless.
COVID’s brought about many mashups, including the latest concoction you didn’t know you needed: biscotti with a bit of give by Biscotti Queen, launching February 14, but preorders start Monday.
Boshy Bites specializes in home-cooked Vietnamese noodle soup and spring rolls, and array of shortbread (Black Sesame, Matcha Green Tea, Red Bean, and Soybean).
The Parisian café/bakery trend shows no sign of slowing down, as evidenced by Brioche Dorée (879 Bay St.) between College and Wellesley.
Tokyo Hot Fried Chicken’s popup Camp Smokehouse (300 College St.) offers such a focused menu, you might as well get one of everything (if they don’t sell out first): two towering brisket sandwiches ($13.27 ea.), Smoked Fries ($5.50), Wieners And Maple Beans ($5.50) Came Fire Slaw ($5.50), and S’mores ($5).
The trifecta that makes up the bulk of Chubbi Chubbi Chicken’s menu - homestyle buttermilk fried chicken, “OG” mac, cherry cheesecake– is just what your lockdown life needs. Your waist, not so much. (No one’s seeing it anyway, so you’re fiiiiiiine.)
Farm Boy’s newest store drops today. Find it in the freshly developed area across from Fort York (29 Bathurst St.).
An opening in Orangeville is waaaay beyond the city limits that I cover here, but Greystones Restaurant & Lounge by Scaramouche’s chef/owner Keith Froggett deserves a nod. Plus, who knows? Maybe you’re moving there! A limited takeout menu launches Tuesday with small plates, mains, housemade pasta pizza, and desserts.
It’s never too cold for ice cream. Hence, Honey’s Ice Cream (1448 Dundas St. W.) brick-and-mortar debut on December 19. The premium plant-based co. offers countless flavours (with Coffee with Chocolate Freckles winning ‘Cutest Name Ever’ award) made with dairy-free ingredients, alongside ice cream sandos and pies.
Roncesvalles is one of the best neighbourhoods to shop for food in the city. While there, check out Jimmy’s Coffee (2210 Dundas St. W.) at the corner of Dundas and Roncy.
It’s difficult to keep up with all the Jollibee openings when you’re stuck indoors. Don’t sweat it, I’ve got you - One touched down at Square One (100 City Centre Dr.) Mississauga on Saturday. To catch up on the rest, click through the last few editions of my Open/Closed.
Below freezing temps, amongst other things, calls for noods. Specifically, creamy tori paitan ramen by chefs Masaru Ogasawara and Natsuhiko Sugimoto of Midori Ramen (412 Queen St. W.) at Queen and Spadina.
Pro tip: Add Milou (1375 Dundas St. W.) at Dundas and Beaconsfield to your watchlist.
Toronto’s newest specialty coffee roasters just landed eastside. Doors opened Monday for Omnia Coffee Roasters in Leslieville (1347 Queen St. E.).
I’ve been saying for years the city needs more authentic Portuguese restaurants. So my excitement for chef Julie Marteleira and Jenny Marteleira’s Petisco Kitchen cannot be contained. It turns out many feel the same, as they keep selling out, so set an alert because you don’t want to miss this.
One of the many dishes enjoying a renaissance of late: meat pies. However, we both know not all pies are created equal. Pies by Squires, the new venture by Chef Adam Squires - recently of Buca, before that Michelin-starred restaurants (Le Gavroche, Dinner By Heston) - stands out from the crowd. Menus drop Thursday, with pickups the following Monday. On this week’s list: Short Rib and Bone Marrow ($28), Roast Chicken and Leek ($28).
Pop’s Market (2279 Bloor St. W.) in Bloor West Village between Runnymede and Jane specializes in pantry items from places such as Croatia, Hungary, and Russia, in addition to beautiful housemade desserts and savoury fare. On the day I shopped, I peeped robust dishes including pork stew, grilled sausages and cabbage, and chicken schnitzel.
Find Ration Snacks by Ration Food Lab in their new home, nestled on the main floor of the The Beverley Hotel (335 Queen St W.). Shop their condiments, pick up coffee and wine, as well as order food for delivery.
Ruru Baked was a runaway success from the get-go without a full-on HQ. So just imagine what the future holds now that the custard ice cream mecca is kinda opening today at 659 Lansdowne Ave. (formerly The Landsdowne Cone).
Act now. Tomorrow’s the last day to place your order for chef Samantha Medeiros’ Cinnamon Bun Pop Up.
Scotty Bons Caribbean Grill replaced Gyugyuya (402 Bloor St. W.) in The Annex on Friday. The third outpost of the beloved chain is the first to land downtown.
Like many restaurants launched during the apocalypse, Thornhill’s Sof Sof Grill (1200 Highway 7, Unit 1) sold out in a flash during their grand opening held earlier this week. The kosher certified eatery had to shut down and restock. Doors reopen today at 11am.
Souperlicious added a fourth outlet last month, this time in North York (2349 Finch Ave. W.). Their luscious winter warmups of soup (Corn, Red Pea with Oxtail, Cow Foot, Goat’s Head), porridge (Peanut, Cornmeal, Hominy Corn), and protein bowls (Curry Goat, Jerk, Oxtail) are must-haves for days like these.
The Tale Indian Cuisine and Bar (3747 Lakeshore Blvd. W., Unit 1) moved into Buster's Kitchen x Bar old spot in Etobicoke. Doors opened Sunday.
Local kombucha makers ALMA + GIL have a tamale and taco popup you should know about: Tamales Mineros.
Tenaz Restaurant by chef Celia Nelson specializes in vegan sopes and gluten free tacos, available for delivery.
CLOSED
Saturday night marks the final service for Gordon’s Pub Kitchen (993 Queen St. E.) in Leslieville.
Stratengers in Leslieville (1130 Queen St. E.) is closing Sunday. The long-standing restaurant has been serving the neighbourhood since 1989. The Bolton outpost however, remains open.
EVENTS
La Poutine Week kicks off Monday.
A number of Toronto chefs are participating in this year’s National Chowder Chowdown Festival.
NEWS
Wayne Roberts, an advocate for sustainable food systems, has passed away.
Primrose Bagel and SanRemo have temporarily closed due to an employee testing positive for COVID-19, but are set to reopen shortly.
ICYMI
The third instalment of Supporting Black-Owned Restaurants is heeeeeeeere! In this edition, discover mouth-watering takeout from new arrivals and revisit neighbourhood treasures for the most delectable fare. p.s. Volume IV dropping soon! To be added in an upcoming edition, send an email.
There are a ton of new popups you should have on your radar right now. Kusinera by chef Keanu Francisco of SARA Restaurant. Discover more in this week’s must-read At The Pass.
Two ice cream shops debuted this week, no doubt stirring up your longing for something cold and sweet. Explore all your options in The Ultimate Guide to Ice Cream + Frozen Treats in Toronto/GTA.
If you haven’t already subscribed to the newsletter, now’s the time. Get The Tip Off - a sneak peek at the upcoming Open/Closed (because who doesn’t want to be the first to know?) and fab deals + special offers from restaurants and local businesses (because who doesn’t want to save money?), all exclusive to subscribers.
____
Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.
Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.
Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event you want to promote? Just launched your ghost kitchen and need a boost? To spread the word about your business without spending $$$ get in touch.
Please support local businesses whenever possible.
Reach foodies directly. Advertise in the next newsletter or Open/Closed. Space is limited.
January 25, 2021
Black-owned restaurants in Toronto/GTA to support - Part 3
Photo courtesy of SugarKane.
🕒 2 min read
As part of my ongoing series to support Black-owned establishments now and always, this instalment celebrates 20 destinations - from new arrivals alongside time-honoured institutions - currently open for takeout and/or delivery.*
*Subject to change. Please contact establishments directly regarding services and hours of operation during COVID-19 lockdown.
Benin Café
Nigerian Restaurant
359 Albion Rd.
Etobicoke
416-551-8026
Calabash Caribbean Cuisine
Caribbean Restaurant
2155 Leanne Blvd.
Mississauga
905-822-4875
Caribbean Queen of Patties
Caribbean Restaurant
1294 Bloor St. W.
Toronto
416-538-1732
Chef Kareema
Caribbean Fusion Restaurant
203 Dundas St. E.
Toronto
647-772-9675
Coffee & Beignet
African Coffee Shop
298 Gerrard St. E.
Toronto
Dav’s Hotspot
Halal Comfort Food Restaurant
Multiple locations
El Habanero & Churrobar
Cuban Restaurant & Dessert Bar
Multiple locations
Jerk & BBQ Haven
Jamaican Restaurant
488 Eglinton Ave. W., Unit 20
Mississauga
905-890-4545
Jerk King
Caribbean Restaurant
Multiple locations
Judy’s Island Grill
Caribbean Restaurant
1720 Eglinton Ave. W.
York
647-348-1175
Lucky’s Chicken n’ Waffles
Comfort Food Restaurant
2977 Lake Shore Blvd. W.
Etobicoke
416-252-9779
Maracas
Caribbean Restaurant
Delivery across GTA
Naija Jollof
African Restaurant
Multiple locations
Rap’s Authentic Jamaican
Caribbean Restaurant
1541 Eglinton Ave. W.
York
416-784-0008
Reggae Fusion Caribbean Food
Multiple locations
SugarKane
Caribbean & Cajun Restaurant
699 Danforth Ave.
Toronto
416-469-0808
Sunrise Caribbean Restaurant
Caribbean Restaurant
Multiple locations
Taste Seduction
Jamaican Restaurant
399 Keele St.
Toronto
416-763-8763
Umi’s Kitchen
Halal Caribbean Restaurant
346 Dundas St. E.
Toronto
416-928-9171
Vegwood
Vegetarian/Vegan Restaurant
540 Oakwood Ave.
Toronto
647-446-3663
———
Discover more Black-owned restaurants to support now and always.
To keep up to date, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.
January 23, 2021
At The Pass with Keanu Francisco
🕒 9 .5 min read
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.
Currently
Jr. Sous Chef at SARA / Chef, Owner of Kusinera, a popup I’ve dedicated to rediscovering my Filipino heritage that I neglected growing up, and paying homage to the very prominent feminine energy present throughout my life and career, and most importantly, my mom.
Formerly
Rasa, The Food Dudes - I’ve pretty much stayed loyal to the company since I was 16 so my past experience isn’t exactly as expansive as most!
Favourite dish to make right now
I can’t say that I currently have a favourite dish, but I’ve been rediscovering my Filipino heritage and have just been recipe testing a lot of different Filipino food.
Last cookbook purchase
Amboy: Recipes from the Filipino-American Dream by Alvin Cailan
Have you read it/tried any recipes
I’ve read the whole book front-to-back multiple times now, and this is kind of embarrassing to say but from it I’ve learned how to make on-the-stovetop steamed rice; I never actually learned how to until about two months ago. Even that whole finger trick with the rice and water was something I knew faintly about but didn’t fully understand the whole mechanics of it. Thanks Ma.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
My friends will hate me for saying this because it’s always been a meme for them, but I have truly always hated sushi burritos/sushi pizza/sushi ____. I thoroughly enjoy my sushi as sushi.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
I can’t say I’m excited for a specific dish or ingredient to see more often on menus. Honestly, I prefer not knowing what a dish/ingredient is and ordering it just to learn about it. If I hate it, I hate it. If I love it, I’m ordering it again.
Biggest influences
Culinary-wise I have way too many, but the most prominent one for me would be my Mom only because she couldn’t cook well when I was young; thus, forcing me to learn how to cook and end up where I am now.
Other than that, over the last few months and creating Kusinera I’ve been heavily influenced & inspired by Sasha Ortega, Abby Albino, Justin Bella, Julz Ochangco, Wesley Altuna, and Chuck Ortiz from Acquired Taste - for everything they’ve done for the Filipino community here in the city.
Stone Crab Alavar at Kusinera.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
In 2019 I would have said Azurmendi in Spain, but as of right now with the state of the world? There’s no restaurant in the world I wish I was at more than Rol San specifically at 1:30am after a busy Saturday shift with my SARA family downing Tsingtaos and Nestea while eating steamed black pepper short ribs, steamed rice, snow pea leaves and king oyster mushrooms, and these weird little fried custard balls they’ve got.
Last thing you ate
A slice of Kiki’s Memories from Big Trouble Pizza, and some homemade palabok because I was too lazy to walk over to Jollibee at Yonge and Dundas.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
I will always have butter, garlic, and white miso.
Guilty pleasure
Yell-singing “Unwritten” by Natasha Bedingfield whenever I’m cooking. Both at work and at home.
And food or drink-related guilty pleasure: This one is pretty easy because I’ve recently gotten into a giant argument with my friends over at Big Trouble Pizza about this: I actually prefer Pepsi over Coke!
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
Big Trouble Pizza, Yasu, and BB’s Diner.
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
I’m not a huge drinker so I don’t go to bars often, so my only choice would have to be Bar Raval! This will change once the pandemic is finally over.
Kinilaw at Kusinera.
Go-to drink
This is a tie between Rum & Coke vs. Gin & Tonic. But if there was an ice-cold can of Nestea right beside both of those and I had a choice? I’m taking the plunge.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
Singing too much during service. Surprisingly though, I can somehow manage to sing while in the middle of the juice even on busy nights.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
I like to always check in on my peers/co-workers. It’s true that a team is only as strong as the weakest link, and you never know when someone’s having a bad day. Simply asking if someone needs help and being there for someone builds up team morale, trust, and by extension, overall performance.
Hidden talent
Not so much a talent more than it is a weird quirk, but if “Back at One” by Brian McKnight is played around me, I will start spontaneously singing my heart out to the wall. This is also the case for “Let Me Love You” by Mario, except I’ll also start dancing as if I was in the music video.
Best career advice you ever received
From someone not in the industry, this piece of advice has actually been extremely beneficial for my entire career, and it’s “Don’t be on time, be early.” My high school teacher, Mr. Fleming taught me this when I was in Grade 9. Having some extra time to gather my thoughts and get ready before the shift even starts has always allowed me to plan out exactly what I need to do, how to do it, and in the most efficient way possible so I’m not rushing to reach service time.
Worst career advice you ever received
Nothing really comes to mind; I’m pretty optimistic so naturally I’m big on the idea of “There is no bad advice”. I think that everything you do in your career will benefit you in one way or another. It might not seem like it at times, but you’ll know what is or what isn’t serving you.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
We all say to have fun while cooking because that is our job, but the truth of the matter is that our industry is a tough one; you won’t see friends or family as often as you’d like to but that just makes it all the better for when you do reconnect. On the other hand, you will likely make lasting and strong connections with your team, so don’t be “that person” who’s on a high horse. You’ll probably be reacquainted with the same door you came in if you are.
Come in a touch earlier than normal if you can to prepare and plan out your day. Write things down. Ask questions, even the questions you think you have the answers for or even if they’re a “stupid question” - which don’t exist by the way.
Don’t aim to become “the next best,” just be the best that you can be, take your time to learn and let things gravitate to you. Most importantly, take care of yourself. If a situation doesn’t serve you, don’t put up with it. Be vocal with yourself.
———
In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.
For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.
January 21, 2021
Open/Closed: Toronto Restaurant News January 21-27, 2021
🕒 9 min read
Trying to track down new restaurants while ordered to stay home is one of the many unique challenges of lockdown (others include months of temporary closures and papered up windows).
So unearthing a whopping 26(!) this week feels like a serious win. One which I’m celebrating with copious takeout from both old and new establishments. How ‘bout you?
Here’s the very latest:
OPEN
Preordering for the inaugural The Bajan Kitchen Popup happening next weekend starts now. Sink your teeth into Black Pudding & Souse ($22), Bajan Curry Chicken & Potato Roti ($13), and The Speightstown Special ($25) boasting Bajan stew beef, macaroni pie, rice and peas, four fish cakes and small side salad. Curbside pickup is available in Scarborough and Mississauga.
Beignet Shoppe at the Street Eats Market (9350 Yonge St.) in Richmond Hill whips up the eponymous fried dessert, but also covers all your lockdown cravings in a single item with the New Orleans Chick ($11.30): fried chicken tossed in Hot Cheetos sandwiched between two beignets. Just undo your pants now.
I informed you of The Bullger touching down on the Danforth last fall. Since then, it’s garnered quite the following. So the arrival at Queen and Parliament (348 Queen St. E.) should excite fans.
Doughnuts on weekends is basically a given these days. But COPS Cop Up at Baddies Café (679 Landsdowne Ave.) has the right idea - downing them Friday, Saturday and Sunday night is where it’s at.
Destined to be one of the biggest debuts of the year, Crosley's (214 Ossington Ave.) launches tomorrow. Mark your calendar (if you’re still doing that) and Get. On. It.
Chef Noel Cunningham’s new Caribbean-fusion spot, Cuisine by Noel (300 College St.) at College & Spadina features sumptuous dishes made for days like these such as Braised Oxtail ($14), Curried Goat Pasta ($18), and Island Fried Chicken & Waffles ($16).
Hop tip: Hot Black Coffee’s midtown branch (1993 Yonge St.) is home to an exclusive DaiLo popup every Thursday to Sunday (5:30pm-9:30pm), currently featuring four noodle dishes (one vegan) and Chef Nick Liu’s Hand Pulled Spicy Lamb Noodles.
The Dapper Doughnut out of the U.S. was set to make a splash in Mississauga last year, but then all of this. While you wait, check out the Thornhill satellite (8020 Bathurst St.).
In the mood for sushi? Maki and sashimi are no-brainers. Flame Sushi (204 Queen St. W.) takes it up a notch with selections including Wasabi Octopus Taco ($5.49) with premium seaweed, Scallop Carpaccio ($11.49), and Butterfish Oshi ($12.99).
Forest Café (56 Forest Manor Rd., Unit 5) at Sheppard and Don Mills entered the scene a few months ago. Snacks, both savoury and sweet (Cinnamon Cake $3.55, Custard Cream Soboro $4.45, Kimchi Croquette $4.45, Garlic Sausage $4.95) and drinks (Lotus Biscoff Frappe! $5.95) are particularly noteworthy.
The Hummussiah softly launched at Supermarket (268 Augusta Ave.) in Kensington Market a few weeks ago. It’s the second chickpea-centric eatery to land in the area in a matter of months: Abu Hummus arrived in July.
Pizza and wings are the focus at Hungry Jacks (820 St Clair Ave. W.), replacing Stazione Centrale in Hillcrest Village.
Kung Fu Tea has been an Open/Closed frequent flyer for the last few years, so an early 2021appearance is not surprising. Their latest venue: Yonge & Wellesley (584 Yonge St.), where renowned Eliot’s Bookshop stood for +20 years.
Don’t sleep on the Kusinera Popup by Keanu Francisco happening this Sunday and Monday. Stay tuned!
Toronto Korean tea shop Merchant of Seoul debuts tomorrow.
Fried chicken is everywhere right now – including Queen and Dovercourt, thanks to PG Clucks (1112 Queen St. W.).
Give a warm welcome to Kensington Market’s newest occupant: Pizzeria da Mario (253 Augusta Ave.). Doors opened December 20.
In the Yonge & Dundas area? Head over and check out Rahmi Shawarma n Kabob (132 Dundas St. E.), just east of Church.
Rico Burrito doesn’t mess around. The new takeout/delivery only burrito and taco concept just launched four locations - Woodbridge, Mississauga, Yonge and Eglinton, and Leslie & York Mills.
Turkish eatery Sehzade Kebab House (78 Wellesley St. E.) settled in the Village a few months ago. On the menu: kebab, doner, and pide.
Shawarma 6ix recently secured a spot east side at Queen and Parliament (179 Parliament St.).
I would have told you about Sherm’s Bagels a few weeks back, but they keep selling out. (I am not here to disappoint, only celebrate and encourage.) So listen up and act fast: They’re taking orders again on Monday February 1.
Sohmers Pizza is another buzzy spot amongst the fooderati that can’t keep up with orders. Currently there are three selections - Cheese, Pepperoni, Half Pep/Half Cheese ($30 ea.). – available for pickup on Saturdays.
CHANGE OF ADDRESS
The Fry near Wellesley moved down the street from 544 Yonge St. to 528 Yonge St.
CLOSED
Bacon Nation (249 Augusta Ave.) in Kensington Market called it quits.
Chamsine (132 Dundas St. E.) at Church and Dundas has already been replaced.
NEWS
Chef Scott Savoie of Toronto Food Tours, a familiar face to many in the industry as well as those who took his tours, has passed away.
The CaféTO program is getting a lot of attention due to a recent press release by the City outlining how it will help restaurants: “The first approved CaféTO curb lane closure locations for 2021 could be in installed as early as May – almost two months earlier than last year.” What would actually help: allowing patios throughout the fall and winter (see: NYC) and as soon as the warmer weather hits (April, not May. Canucks have no problem sitting outside in a parka, as long as there’s good food and drinks within reach).
How To Eat With One Hand by Christine Flynn - iQ Food Co.’s partner and executive chef - drops April 13, but is currently available for preorder.
ICYMI
Sick of grocery shopping? Miss restaurant food? Discover how to supplement your supermarket purchases with standout fare from local restaurants without breaking the bank.
Kevin Le of The Little Jerry has worked at some of the top restaurants in Toronto and Copenhagen. Discover his biggest influences, favourite bars, latest cookbook purchase + much more in this week’s At The Pass.
If you haven’t already subscribed to the newsletter, now’s the time. Get The Tip Off, a sneak peek at the upcoming Open/Closed (because who doesn’t want to be the first to know?), and fab deals and special offers from restaurants and local businesses (because who doesn’t want to save money?), all exclusive to subscribers.
Please support local businesses whenever possible.
____
Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.
Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.
Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your business without spending $$$? Get in touch.
Reach foodies directly. Advertise in the next newsletter or Open/Closed. Space is limited.
January 19, 2021
At The Pass with Kevin Le
🕒 3.5 min read
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.
Currently
Chef de Cuisine, The Little Jerry
Formerly
Copenhagen: Noma. Toronto: Canis (four-month Stagiare), Frilu (three-month Stagiare), FIGO, Salt Wine Bar, Taverna Mercatto, George
Favourite dish to make right now
Shabu-shabu, perfect for a cold winter night.
Last cookbook purchase
Have you read it/tried any recipes
I’ve read it multiple times, have utilized many techniques and recipes in my career as a chef.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
Any dish that is only achieved through a large amount of food waste.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
I would love to see the use of koji applied more often!
Biggest influences
My mom, Zabala Aitor, Fredrik Berselius, Jeremy Chan.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
Den, Tokyo.
Last thing you ate
Tempura Soba from Heisei Mart.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
Kimchi, a block of parm, and fish sauce.
Milk & Fermented Strawberry Dessert at The Little Jerry.
Guilty pleasure
Oreo McFlurry from McDonald’s. 😳
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
Imanishi Basement Bar, Bar Piquette, Bar Isabel
Go-to drink
A funky natural wine: Gut Oggau, Christian Tschida, La Sorga, to name a few.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
Taking on too many tasks by myself.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
Always thinking a few steps ahead. Take the initiative and always know your chef’s next move.
Hidden talent
Memorizing song lyrics.
Best career advice you ever received
My former chef, Jacky Chau, taught me the fundamentals and has shaped me into who I am as a chef and person. A few words of advice he had for me as a young sous chef seven years ago: “Always be aware of the movements of those around you. Think before them. Speak before them. Do before them.”
Worst career advice you ever received
“Just quit school (Culinary Management at George Brown College) and come work for me.”
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
Always ask questions. Take the initiative. Practice on your days off. Make yourself stand out amongst the other cooks. Never lose focus and believe in the vision.
___
In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.
For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.
