Stephanie Dickison's Blog, page 32

The Arrival – Cops x East Room Pop-Up

Cops x East Room Pop-Up mini doughnuts. OG Sour Cream Glaze, Cinnamon Sugar, flavour of the week Black Cherry Beet.

The Arrival features the newest spots in Toronto/GTA in a quick read format. Because you’ve got things to do. For a deeper look at Toronto’s latest openings check out renowned series The Reveal, and the iconic OPEN/CLOSED published every Thursday.

🕒 3.5 min read

If there was ever a time to be all about doughnuts, it’s right now, while stretchy pants are not only within reach, but likely what you’re living in right now. To indulge in an entire box however, would be madness. That is, unless they’re rings of pillowy bliss by Cops Coffee and Doughnuts.

Yes, the new beyond cute pink Cops x East Room Pop-Up on the east side is Insta-worthy, and watching the machine that doles out the li’l made-to-order beauts is fun, but it’s their from-scratch cake concoctions that are the real attraction.

Treat yo’ self

Two varieties are up for grabs on the regular: Cinnamon Sugar, OG Sour Cream Glaze - with a special, often exclusive flavour on offer weekly. While you can order six or twelve at a time, you’d be wise to nab these soft, fluffy delights in the more popular quantities of 18 or 36, all the way up to 600. Whatever your order, these sumptuous confections strike the perfect balance between soulful and sinful.

Packaged up as soon as they’re out of the hopper, they’re too hot to handle right away. Miraculously, they stay warm long after you’ve left the shop, unpacked groceries, played with the dog, posted a few stories/selfies…  So warm in fact, the on-the-verge-of-gooey-yet-never-mushy velvety texture makes them difficult to keep intact. A good problem to have, and one that leads you to question all the times you downed others at room temperature. Pro tip: Have a pile of napkins at the ready.

And whatever you do, don’t skip the java. Sister resto Baddies – top destination for Aussie-style brekkie and one of the best Flat Whites in the country - knows their coffee. They’ve kept it simple in the east end – no newfangled contraptions or fancy machines (outside of the automatic doughnut maker of course): just drip served hot or cold (from pretty in pink thermal carafes, naturally). Beans are changed up periodically and are available by the bag to take home. (Currently serving: Quietly, roasted in the Ontario countryside.) Not in the mood for a brew? Grab some chocolate milk - “chocky” milk in proper Australian slang - to go. (Psst. After extensive “research,” these delectable delicacies also happen to pair beautifully with an Old Fashioned. Just sayin’.)

Circle of life

While items can also be picked up at Cops’ permanent post (445 Adelaide St. W.) and Baddies (679 Lansdowne Ave.) in Bloordale, the east end pop-up near Queen and Broadview is here for a limited time, so go while you can.

And whatever number of doughnuts you think is enough, it isn’t.

Cops x East Room Pop-Up
4 Matilda St.
Everyday 9am-11pm

For breaking news, updates, interviews + more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter. 

For more photos, visit @torontorestaurants.co on Instagram.

OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News May 27-June 2, 2021

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/popups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

🕒 10 min read

My 15 findings this week are kind all over the place, pairing well with our scattered brains right now, after being in lockdown for so long. Speaking of minds, has snacking and thinking about snacks taken over your entire day or is it just me?

In the meantime, here’s the very latest:

OPEN

BanCan Kitchen (1328 Danforth Ave.) at Greenwood and Danforth is cooking up a storm of traditional South Asian fare. Think: momos, curries, and biriyani.

Beijing’s famous Crispy Burgers have finally arrived in the 6ix. The first international location of  Bingz opened Sunday at First Markham Place (3229 Hwy 7 E , Unit 11-12). You won’t find the usual accompaniments of fries or onion rings for the three burgers on the menu. Instead, you’ll find Wonton Soup, Hot & Sour Glass Noodles, and Liangpi with Sesame Sauce. No sodas either -choose Chang’an Soymilk or Plum Cold Brew.

Like its older sibling Cheese Boutique (45 Ripley Ave.), CB Bottega (29 Ripley Ave.) offers a whack of culinary wonders under one roof. The café, bakery, gelateria, and shop quietly debuted yesterday.

Chicken Plus + (3250 Midland Ave., Unit G106) softly landed in Scarborough over the weekend. Grand opening celebrations for the popular Korean fried chicken chain get underway tomorrow.

Kung Fu Tea, the American brand that founded ‘National Bubble Tea Day,’ never stops. Find the latest shop in North York’s SteelesTech Plaza (3365 Steeles Ave. E., Unit B3).

LJS Khasos Restaurant + Bar (507 Parliament St.) in Cabbagetown specializes in Italian and American fare. The new eatery does primarily pizza and pasta, but there’s a selection salads, sandos, and mains as well. The new eatery by the folks of Pickering’s Liverpool Johns Pub & Restaurant (1294 Kingston Rd.) established 2017, takes over the space held for decades by Peartree Restaurant.

Shhh… Mo Thai (3085 Hurontario St., Unit 13) by Chef Mo of Sala Thai Kitchen softly opened yesterday, with focused selections including her famous shrimp chips, calamari, Tom Yum Pad Thai, and rich curries.

Nava Social (514 King St. E.) moved Odin’s old digs a few months back. The striking coffee house, “food lab,” bodega, and bottle shop stands out for many reasons including their breakfast sando, Cochinita Toast, Butterfly Pea Latte, and weekend Pocket Pies. 

One of the city’s top eateries, Rap’s Restaurant (1541 Eglinton Ave. W.) has expanded with Rap’s Tropical Ice Cream, a few doors down.

Home-based restaurant Real Taste Of JA in Scarborough is a dream come true for Janelle. “I have always had a passion for cooking. My parents immigrated from Jamaica and have taught me all I know.” She started cooking at the age of 12. “As I have gotten older I kept using the traditional recipes in my own way and now it’s become Real taste of JA,” she says. “I decided to open a business because I wanted to share my love of cooking with the community and friends around me.”.  Her fried chicken marinated , prepared and served fresh,  often with a special BBQ sauce, is popular. Items are prepared using ingredients and spices originating from Jamaican heritage.

I've been dishing on allll sorts of secret places lately, but I couldn't keep this one to myself any longer so I gave TR Newsletter subscribers the head’s up earlier this week... From the folks behind Cry Baby Gallery (1468 Dundas St. W.) comes their on-site 'Spicy Marg Lemonade Stand' here for your long walks, park hangs and happy hours. Open "any day it's warm out." See you there.

Psst. There’s a new hidden butcher in the east end. Stock in Trade (1324A Gerrard St. E.) is launching a second location inside wildly popular southern Italian 7 Numbers on the Danforth (307 Danforth Ave.). After a sneak peek on Saturday, doors officially opened this morning.

At Tasty Sip n' Bite (432 Parliament St.) in Cabbagetown, you can have it all. . You’ll find burgers and spaghetti in amongst Asian soups, noodles, rice, stir-fries, hotpot and snacks, in addition to brekkie in varying sizes: small (Toast), medium (French Toast and Peanut Butter) and Large (Big Breakfast: Two eggs, bacon (3 pcs), ham (2 pcs), sausage (2 pcs) home fries, toast), and everything in between.

Unicorn Café debuted in The Annex at the end of 2019, closing a year later, but not for long. They’ve reopened in the east end at Woodbine and Danforth (2036 Danforth Ave.) with signature whimsical creations including Unicorn Croffles and Freak Shakes (ice cream milkshake with cotton candy, unicorn cookie, unicorn lollipop, marshmallows), set against pastel backdrops. 

The journey to Waska has been a long one for chef Elias Salazar: from Kay Pacha in 2017 to Kensington pop-up in summer 2019, Mrs. Robinson kitchen takeover a few months later, and teasers ever since. Waska Peruvian Chicken (805 Dovercourt Rd.) debuts tomorrow with a host of enticing fare including empanadas tamales, ceviches, alongside Chicharron ($14), Anticuchos Beef Heart ($14), Hamburguesa de Quinoa ($15), Rotisserie Chicken (half $20, whole $40), and Lomo Saltado ($20) featuring wok-fried top sirloin. [UPDATE May27 11:17pm - Opening has been delayed to June 4.]

CLOSED

Monday is the last day for Open House Bar (1051 Bloor St. W.).

After serving the Cabbagetown and Regent Park communities for a decade, Qi Sushi (358 Gerrard St. E.) permanently closed on Sunday.

I reported True Flavours’ debut in March, but it shut down for good last week.

CHANGES

 Hong Kong Island Dim House moved to 248 Spadina Ave.

Corktown’s Rivertowne Deli  (510 Queen St. E.) - home of Meat Ball Potato Curry Roti, Chicken Parmesan Pasta, Spinach Paneer Rice, Tandoori Chicken Salad – is moving a few doors west  on Tuesday to 506 Queen St. E.

Tasty Korea (3323 Lake Shore Blvd. W.) in Etobicoke is now Tasty Korea to Japan, complete with tasty new menu selections.

EVENTS

Head to stackt market (28 Bathurst St.) tomorrow for special event in honour of Asian Heritage Month. Asian Heritage Night Market will feature Asian Led and Asian Owned businesses from across the city: Bean + Pearl, Caviar Citizen, Cuchara, FeasTO, Fersk Self Care, Joybird, Lao Food Co, Magic Oven, Make Kwento, Mama Joos Hot Sauce, Marathon Café, Oishi Box, Saigon Drip, Soft Dough Co., Tong Mein. A percentage of table fees will be donated Collective Society 360 to help create career and entrepreneurial development for BIPOC youth.

NEWS  

Even The BBC can’t believe we’ve been in lockdown this long.

With vaccine rates on the rise, restaurants are starting to announce dates for patio launches, but the industry is left wondering about many unknowns for Step 1 of the Ontario Re-Opening Plan, including essential info needed such as operating hours.

Toronto’s own chef Matty Matheson (Matty’s Patty’s Burger Club, Birria Balam, Maker Pizza, and Matty Mattheson’s Meat + Three in Fort Erie) has been cast in restaurant comedy pilot The Bear for FX. 

ICYMI

Chef Hyun Jung Kim is unstoppable. Two years ago he was doing five-course tasting menus + curated wine dinners at Core, his restaurant in Leslieville. Two months after the pandemic hit, he transformed it into Core Korean Kitchen, a destination for comforting Korean fare. His latest concept for the space, Core Bubble Tea, just debuted. Discover his recent cookbook purchase, fridge essentials, biggest influence (a local chef!) + much more in this week’s inspiring At The Pass.

Secret home-based pizzeria One Night Only Pizza has managed to remain largely under the radar for over a year, despite thousands of fans clamouring for their weekly porch drops. Now that a permanent spot’s opened, is it easier to get your hands on their elusive New York-esque pies? Find out. 

And stay tuned more news ahead in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the TR newsletter. 

Please support local businesses whenever possible.

 Life moves fast. (I wrote about +110 new arrivals in April alone.) Catch up on previous editions of the OPEN/CLOSED.   

Things change quickly. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.   

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Get in touch.

Need help to spread the word about your menu, bottle shop, upcoming patio, but you’re on a budget? We can help. *Prices have been reduced to help local businesses during this time. Limited space available.

At The Pass with Hyun Jung Kim

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.

 🕒 5.5 min read

Currently 

Chef/Owner, Core Korean Kitchen and Core Bubble Tea  

Formerly 

George Restaurant and Globe Bistro. I also briefly worked at Scaramouche, C5, The Chase, Sidecar, and Mercatto.

Favourite dish to make right now

Korean Fried Chicken. 

Last cookbook purchase 

Flour Water Salt Yeast: The Fundamentals of Artisan Bread and Pizza by Ken Forkish

Have you read it/tried any recipes

I rarely try a recipe from cookbooks. I use cookbooks for inspiration and as more like a guideline, to learn certain techniques and gain knowledge. I did not try any exact recipes from the book, but it certainly helped me understand the science and methods behind baking bread better when I used to bake fresh sourdoughs for the restaurant every day.

Name one dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Any dish with unnecessary high food waste and unnecessary high labour.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

I am opening a bubble tea shop inside the restaurant soon, so I am excited to learn anything related to bubble tea right now. 

Also, since I changed the concept of the restaurant to Korean from seasonal Canadian Bistro during the pandemic, I am always trying to learn and find a way to introduce not-widely-known Korean flavours in unique ways to our menus.

Just like many French or Western kitchens use many Japanese flavours/techniques/terms, I’d also like to see more widely Korean flavours/techniques used.

Scallops. “A dish we used to serve when we were seasonal Canadian Bistro.”

Biggest influences

Chef Lorenzo Loseto from George Restaurant for his passion and commitment to excellence, attention to details, and he is just one of the hardest working people I know.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

Alo in Toronto –  been meaning to try for a while, looking forward to dine there hopefully soon, Noma in Copenhagen.

Last thing you ate

Sazanka Sushi Platter (46 pcs) from Miku.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Butter, Onions, Eggs.

Guilty pleasure

Medium Double Double.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Kibo Sushi House, Canoe, Cluny Bistro & Boulangerie

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

N/A, I rarely drink.

Go-to drink  

I rarely drink, but I like sweet wines/beers.

Japchae. “After pivoting to a Korean restaurant during the pandemic, serving authentic Korean classics and fried chicken.”

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Trying to do everything by myself.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

Hard working. I rarely take a break when I work, and am constantly moving to get things done. I am not saying don’t take a break, and work and life balance is very important, but plan ahead and utilize the time wisely. 

Hidden talent

Making staff meal in a short period of time.

Best career advice you ever received

“Do it once, do it right,” by my former sous chef Ed Yu. As simple as it sounds, it is very hard to follow all the time. Take your time to get things done right, instead of doing it twice or even more. 

Worst career advice you ever received

I can’t think of anything at the moment, but I’d say stay away from the negative minds and focus on the positive things.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

Be open-minded. As a young cook myself, all my focus was on working at fine dining restaurants cooking French or Western style food, but cooking is so much more than that and there are so many different things you can do. 

As you gain more experience in the industry, you will meet with many different opportunities in different fields. Be open minded, learn as much as you can, find what you love, and find what works for you.

——— 

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.    

For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter. 

One Night Only Pizza – From porch pies to permanent pizzeria amidst a pandemic

The Spicy Pepperoni, one of five selections available from One Night Only Pizza.

🕒 9.5 min read

Luke and Brianna Skye Pollard didn’t set out to open an internet-breaking pizzeria amidst a pandemic. It just kind of happened.

How it started

“Pizza Fridays,” were a part of Luke’s upbringing – first ordering in, then his Mom started making her own. Decades later, he continued the homemade pizza tradition with his wife Brianna in their home in Riverdale. The couple, who met on the west coast and reconnected in Toronto a decade later, would invite friends over for a weekly get together dubbed “One Night Only Pizza”. Over the years, the gatherings increased, as did their pizza obsession.

When the pandemic hit, the Pollards bought pizza boxes so friends and neighbours could still get the goods safely distanced on the back porch. By April 2020, word had seriously spread – IRL but especially online  - they were receiving ”thousands of requests” for their buzzy pies through the Instagram profile they started casually the year before. The secret pizzeria was blowing up, but you had to be in the know to know. (Note: You still do.)  It was clear the couple was not only onto something; they had to find a better solution than their own kitchen.

“We were looking for a pop up location, and the owners of Casa Tamayo Pizza and Variety are neighbours of ours,” Luke says. After mentioning the need for a temporary spot to owner Leticia Tamayo-Diaz, she “had a bit of an epiphany. “It was a convenience store and pizza place, and she was working outrageous hours and kind of burned out,” he says. “She asked if we wanted to take over the space.” They got the keys December 1 2020 and have “slowing been working on it” ever since.

How it’s going

Just a little over a year later, production has moved from the couple’s home oven to a permanent pizzeria in the east end at the corner of Pape and Wroxeter.

The interior has been completely renovated, with changes still to come: a new oven and mixer are on the way, signage, and other tweaks and upgrades.

In the meantime, Luke still hand mixes everything and does all the prep. He says, “On Fridays, it’s just me, with someone at the door; Saturdays, someone gives me a hand. Currently I’m making 30-40 pizzas per night, 70-80 pies on weekends,” as the ancient oven does just two pizzas at a time, and is” like an old barbecue. It has hot spots. Every oven has its quirks, uneven heating,” he continues. The new Blodgett 60″ single deck natural gas pizza oven will allow him to not only make four pizzas at a time within the ordering windows, but increase the numbers of pizzas and nights.

While he may sound like an industry vet, Luke has been working full-time in construction for years. Up until a few weeks ago, in fact. “I just finished a huge construction job,” he says, Both he and Brianna worked in restaurants out west as bartenders and servers, but don’t have any back-of-house experience. And Brianna, a full-time interior designer - who just had a baby (the couple have two children, River Skye and Rain Skye) and is currently on maternity leave while working full-time to get the pizzeria going - designed and decorated the space, which is similar to the kitchen where the magic all started. “It’s a bit of a nod to our story,” Luke says. “A warm, happy kitchen like at home.” And the business is truly a family affair, with Brianna’s sister Alana Murray helping at the front with pick-ups and orders.

Luke Pollard.

The ‘za that started it all

After years of crafting and honing, One Night Only Pizza is “New York-esque,” classic (“Nothing gimmicky.”), and comes in at 16”. The current lineup is a carefully curated five selections, three of which are vegetarian: Cheese ($25.50), Pepperoni ($27.50), Spicy Pepperoni ($28.50) O.N.O Mushroom Pie Special ($29.50) O.N.O Spicy Potato Special ($28.50)

Luke keeps ingredients as local and Canadian as possible, including the dough made with “beautiful” organic Canadian flour, fermented for 72 hours. And while many pizza shops use a collagen cased pepperoni from the U.S., he prefers to source closer to home - one with no added fillers or preservatives from Venetian Meats in Hamilton. The balanced sauce is made with pizzeria staple Bianco DiNapolio’s organic California canned tomatoes, now on display at the front counter.

The crust is light and thin, but structurally sound, with good chew and slight crispy finish, with no hard edges in sight. The thin layer of mozzarella won’t result in any cheese pulls, but here, that’s a good thing. Toppings are diligently, deftly added, resulting in uniform slices/morsels.

Order the mushroom, and you’ll discover cremini tossed with house made balsamic dressing, infusing the pie with a bright acidity and subtle sweetness. The spicy potato features a rich garlic and basil cream, smoked mozzarella (Canadian) and pickled in-house red onions. The Number 3 (Spicy Pepperoni) features pickled jalapeños sliced razor thin, yet they still bring the heat. The signature final touch on all selections: parmesan and fragrant, fresh torn basil leaves.

If you’re the kind of person who always leaves you our crusts, you won’t have that issue here - ingredients are pushed all the way out to the outer limits of the corniccione. And pizzas are accompanied by two addictive housemade garlic dill dipping sauces. Think you’re not a ‘dip person’? Believe it will take away from the experience? You’re wrong on both counts. You’ll dip like no one’s watching.

Once everything is fully up-and-running, Luke will add a rotating feature,” once a month or every few weeks,” he says. “There definitely will be a sixth pizza and depending on customer response, it could become permanent.”

581 Pape Ave. If you know, you know.

Too hot to handle

While the business is now a full-on restaurant, and the brick-and-mortar location softly opened last week – orders are currently pre-order via the website and pick up only, no walk ins.

To pre-order, be prepared to be glued to your phone, tablet or computer. (If you aren’t already.) Drops are announced via  social and email newsletter. Then you’ll have to act fast to make your selections and complete your order before they run out. Which they do. In minutes.

As with any new business, there have been a few glitches along the way. It can take a long time before you get access, and just because you are on the email list doesn’t mean you receive a message. “We don’t want to email everyone on the list,” Luke says. The demand is just too great. “This is new to us. It’s a work in progress and we’re doing our best.” Once the new equipment arrives and production can be ramped up, access and wait times should improve.

When asked about delivery, Luke says it’s “certainly possible,” as is the day when you can simply walk in and order. “Definitely the goal is expansion and getting more people pizza,” he adds.

In the meantime, keep trying your luck. As the adage goes, “Good things come to those who wait.”

One Night Only Pizza
581 Pape Ave.

For more photos, visit @torontorestaurants.co on Instagram.

For breaking news, updates, interviews + more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.

OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News May 20-26, 2021

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/popups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

🕒 15 min read

It’s the long weekend, news of when patios can reopen just arrived, and I’ve got 21 new spots for you to visit, order from, and support. Things are finally starting to look up.

p.s. This is a long read. You should def grab a snack. 

Here’s the very latest:

OPEN

Pastry cook Kristine May Garcia spent time in various restaurants and bakeries, and was working at a hotel prior to the pandemic. Cut to last summer when a friend asked if she wanted to sell ube pandesal - Filipino bread roll made with purple yam. They did it for a month together, and when the friend opted out, Garcia decided to go it alone, this time selling silvanas - a cashew meringue cookie with buttercream filling rolled in cookie crumbs, followed by other Filipino desserts including ube cake and frozen brazo (five-layer pastry). As Békri Cakes & Pastries grew, a bigger space was required, so she rented a commercial kitchen. Her hard work has paid off: Starting today, her Silvanas are available at Korean bubble tea chain, Palgong Tea.

Beat the heat this weekend with a visit to Kensington’s new Boho Gelato (160 Baldwin St., Unit 2).

Bullseye Burgers N' Fries (940 Pape Ave.) in Pape Village does much more than their name suggests. Cheesesteaks, chicken sandos, salads, breaded pickles, shakes, and ice cream, for example. 

After five-and-a-half years in Mississauga, The Cold Pressery (4310 Sherwoodtowne Blvd., Unit 5) shuttered last December. Five months later, the vegan café set up shop in Eva's Original Chimneys (53 Lakeshore Rd. E.) in Port Credit with coffee , tea, smoothies, and breakfast bowls.

Core Restaurant (896 Queen St. E.) debuted in Leslieville Spring ‘18. The finer dining establishment boasted seasonal dishes, five-course tasting menus, and curated wine dinners. Two months after the pandemic hit, owner/chef Hyun Jung Kim transformed it into a Korean kitchen featuring comfort fare including crispy fried chicken. For the third iteration, Kim has created Core Bubble Tea. With boba notably scarce in the nabe, this reimagination should prove popular.

In need of a caffeine fix? Creek Coffee & Co. (370 Old Kingston Rd.) in Scarborough (Highland Creek Village, to be exact) has got you covered.

Richard Yeates spent the last decade “working with and learning from great chefs in the city of Toronto” at restaurants including George, Actinolite, and Skippa. About six months into the pandemic he decided to finally follow his heart and embark on his own into the culinary world with Eat Rich. “I realized that the opportunity to make this my life was right now and I figured it was the time to take the leap of faith.” His weekly home-cooked dinners, complete with donuts (!) don’t fall under any one cuisine. “My menu is ever-changing and inspired by creativity and freedom to finally express my own choices,” he shared. “I have a Caribbean heritage, which I do like to incorporate into my menu,” but for now, he prefers to keep it broad and dynamic. (Which is especially appealing in lockdown when moods and palates are all over this place). This week’s comfort food dinner ($23): Gourmet 3 Cheese Mac and Cheese, Buttermilk Fried Chicken, and Homemade Biscuit – can be paired with Honey Glazed and Blueberry Filled Donuts ($4 ea/$12 for 4).

Long story somewhat shortened: Philip Haddad has been on my radar for years. At least as far back as 2017 when he was testing loaves and notifying people through his then-insta @harbordst.bread they could come by for some of the test-runs. The clamouring for his epic creations was deafening. I remember long text chains flying around from folks trying to ascertain how and when to secure a loaf. The ‘coming soon’ in the profile gave everyone a glimmer of hope. When Donna’s debuted in 2018, pastries by Haddad were in the works for the menu while everyone waited his upcoming spot – by then dubbed Emmer & Ash - with bated breath. Fast forward almost three years later to present day 2021: Emmer (161 Harbord St.) finally debuted this weekend. And of course sold out almost immediately. The team is back this weekend – Thursday to Sunday – so finger’s crossed you secure some of the coveted items.

Canadian chain Fresh Burrito launched a new location near Sugar Beach (16 Richardson St., Unit 3) that’s already garnered a 5-star rating on Google. 

Hielito Bits (247 Augusta Ave.) landed in Kensington Market with a slew of Mexican paletas (ice pops) made with real fruit juice. Want to take your frozen treat to the next level? Get yourself a Raspado: shaved ice with a hit of real fruit syrup (lime, tamarind, strawberry, vanilla or berries), topped with HB Chamoy, Tajin, or gummies, finished with a paleta. The pop-up is on until October 15. 

Doris Yeh, founder of Katcha Baked Goods, is a university student who loves to bake and values health and wellness. Last year when the pandemic struck, she realized “the importance of having a healthy lifestyle.” Unsatisfied with current information (“We still don't have enough exposure to proper nutritional knowledge.) and how food is categorized (“We still value food as good or bad, such as cookies/chocolate is bad food, salad/apple is good food.”), she recognized the disparity and launched the brand to help change the perception. As a student, she often relies on caffeinated drinks/products to start her day, so she wanted to incorporate these into her items: cookies and bars are primarily composed of oats and plant-based milk, sweetened with fruit and a bit of brown sugar, with the amount of oil usually required cut back “as other ingredients provide the necessary fat content for the products.” The home-based bakery launches Wednesday, for pickup only.

Liven up your pantry with European items from La Spesa Food Market + Specialties (1700 St. Clair Ave. W.). Doors opened April 22. 

No need for a barbecue this weekend. Lebanese Garden at College & Bathurst (366 College St.) does meat and veg fresh off the grill.

This isn’t NH Bakery’s first rodeo. The “best bakery in Canada” has been around since 1996, and just nabbed a spot in Parkdale (1416 Queen St. W.).

The long weekend calls for two things: frozen treats and drinks. And when they’re conveniently available together ? In the same luscious mouthful even- aka Aperol Spritz, Mojito, Pina Colada gelato? See you at On Third Thought Gelato + Wine Bar (6 Markham St.). 

Pi Co.’s slinging Neapolitan-style pies a stone’s throw from Sugar Beach (16 Richardson St., Unit 4).

Heading to or passing by Malvern Town Centre (31 Tapscott Rd.)? Be sure to swing by Scotchiees Caribbean Cuisine (NE side, located near the back entrance) for an exciting lineup of enticing fare including oxtail, ackee and saltfish, curry goat, fish (fried, escovitch, brown stew, or steamed) steak, and rotisserie jerk chicken. 

Following a show-stopping debut on College last week, Shawarma Royale unveils new digs in Oakville (407 Iriquois Shore Rd.) this Saturday.

Neighbourhood fave Sushi on Gerrard returns to its former ‘hood. Find them at the corner of Greenwood and Gerrard (1289 Gerrard St. E.), previously home to Brickyard Bistro. Doors opened Friday. (TR Newsletter subscribers the head’s up last month.)

Food shopping just got a lot more exciting, thanks to Tienda Movil (1237C Woodbine Ave.) in East York. The Latin American supermarket carries products from local restaurants such as St. Clair West resto El Sazón Mexicano, and makers including Mi Gusto Es (I told you all about them a few weeks back), and Hielito Bits (see above). 

Yuzu No Ki Cafe & Patisserie at Markham’s J-Town (3160 Steeles Ave. E., Unit 4) does French desserts and pastries with a Japanese twist. Some recent offerings include: yuzu-glazed muffins, The Lumière (blueberry confiture,blueberry yogurt mousse, cheese mousse, milk glaçage, streusel cookies), and The Violetta (purple sweet potato cream, candied purple sweet potato cubes in a frangipane tart, crème diplomat, crème Chantilly).

CLOSED

 Brew pub and bottle shop Batch House (75 Victoria St.) bid adieu.

Friday marked the last day for The Big Slice at 1154 St. Clair Ave.  W. Don’t worry, they’re relocatin not far away. Stay tuned.

Portuguese eatery Moliceiro Restaurant (217 Ossington Ave.), est. 2016 - has permanently closed.

EVENTS

 Missing your favourite restaurant that shuttered during the pandemic? Bid on a keepsake plate or purchase a print at The Last Dish Auction while supporting Toronto Restaurant Workers’ Relief Fund.

NEWS

This afternoon, Premier Doug Ford released a three-step plan for the province reopening. Note: Restaurant patios are included in Step 1. 

All the big outdoor food festivals have been cancelled for the foreseeable future including The CNE, Taste of the Danforth, Taste of Lawrence, and Scarborough Ribfest.

Police say it was a loud party; King West resto Baro claims it was a meeting. 

Missing bartenders? Virtual event 24 Hour Bar might help.

Congratulations to Christopher Siu of Daan Go Cake Lab and Daan Go Café, winner of Season 7 of MasterChef Canada.

ICYMI

Lev Bakery may be new on the scene, but is steeped in tradition. Think: Jewish classics with a modern touch (organic grains, seasonal ingredients, natural fermentation) and whole lotta love. No wonder items have been selling out since day one. Back then (October), it was all done in a home oven. Now with production moved to a new commercial baking space, an expanded wholesale program, and local partners, it’s easier than ever to get your hands on the city’s buzziest babka and bread. Get to know owner/baker extraordinaire Yoni Kamil in this week’s At The Pass. 

If you’ve been reading the iconic OPEN/CLOSED (if not, you’re missing out), you’ll have seen the flurry of arrivals of late: +110 IN APRIL ALONE! In amongst the brunch boxes, fried chicken sandos, and porch pies, you’ll find a cornucopia of ice cream (and other must-have cold confections made for days these) from new spots including those above. Discover all +150 destinations in The Ultimate Guide to Ice Cream + Frozen Treats in Toronto/GTA.

I’m not a ‘podcast person’ but I was hooked on 'Meatball Thoughts’ from the get-go. 

If you haven’t already subscribed to the TR Newsletter, now’s the time. This last week included exclusive bonuses for cocktail lovers, and next week? Well, just you wait. Plus you get The Tip Off, a sneak peek at the upcoming Open/Closed (because who doesn’t want to be the first to know?), and fab deals and special offers from restaurants and local businesses (because who doesn’t want to save money?), all exclusive to subscribers. 

***

Life moves fast. (I wrote about +110 new arrivals in April alone.) Catch up on previous editions of the OPEN/CLOSED.   

Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.   

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Get in touch.

Need help to spread the word about your menu, bottle shop, upcoming patio, but you’re on a budget? We can help. *Prices have been reduced to help local businesses during this time. Limited space available.

 Please support local businesses whenever possible. 

At The Pass with Yoni Kamil

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. 

🕒 4.5 min read

Currently

Baker, Lev Bakery

Formerly 

Blackbird Baking Co., Chase Hospitality Group, Rideau Bakery

Favourite dish to make right now

I’ve been testing a lot of rye bread recipes, so I make a lot of tuna melts - not fancy, just canned tuna, but more often than not, with a parmesan crust.

Last cookbook purchase

The Food Lab by Kenji Lopaz-Alt. I love the content he has been putting out on YouTube during quarantine and seeing that I’m a baker, not a trained chef. I really enjoy his cooking.

Have you read it/tried any recipes

 Yes, I made Chili Verde the other day. Super tasty.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

If I could make it bread related... I would definitely say, stop making charcoal bread. Or charcoal anything, for that matter.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

Lots of local Ontario flour being milled in interesting ways right now. That’s exciting.

Biggest influences

My grandfather, who owned Rideau Bakery in Ottawa, and by all accounts was the hardest working and nicest guy.

And Simon Blackwell, owner of Blackbird - I worked under him for many years and he really set a good example of what being a great boss can look like.

Lev Bakery’s holy trinity: Babka, Challah, and Organic Sourdough.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

My wife and I were supposed to go to France last April, so getting my hands on a loaf from Poilâne Bakery in Paris is still top of my list.

Last thing you ate

Scrambled eggs with chili oil - CC’s Szechuan Sauce.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Eggs, cottage cheese, and half sour pickles.

Guilty pleasure

I love a Junior Chicken (maybe two) from McDonald’s.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Roll San for dim sum, Mattachioni - best pies and salads, and Donna’s my local go to.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

Bar Raval, Burdock, and Birreria Volo - which happens to be where my wife and I had our first date and wedding.

Go-to drink

Gin and Soda. 

Babka for days. Currently available in three varieties: Chocolate, Chocolate Tahini, and Cinnamon.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

I should probably start cutting my labels instead of tearing them. And drinking more water while I work.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

You only get one shot at every bake - so each day is an opportunity to be better than the last. That’s what’s fun about baking. Technically that’s not a habit, but it felt inspiring.

Hidden talent

I speak Hebrew with a nice accent.

The best career advice you ever received

"If you ain't first, you're last," Ricky Bobby in Talladega Nights.

Worst career advice you ever received

To “drink the company Kool-Aid.”

Your advice for a young baker starting out in the business

Find a good owner or management team and stick with them through the rough parts.

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration.

To keep up to date, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter. 

 

OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News May 13-19, 2021

Photo courtesy of Sara Restaurant.

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/popups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

🕒 14 min read

Toronto/GTA, you never cease to amaze me. This week’s discoveries include a lot of firsts (and not in the way you might think), which is shocking considering I’ve been doing this every week for eons.

Also shocking: I uncovered not just the 25 arrivals below (which as you know by now is a staggering amount for a single week), but I’ve got heaps more. HEAPS.  

And to all those celebrating, Eid Mubarak.

Here’s the very latest:

OPEN 

I was thrilled to tell you all about The Abibiman Project earlier this year, so I’m stoked about this weekend’s pop-up at Sara featuring chef Rachel Adjei. Expect flavours from Nigeria, Angola, and Seychelles on the menu. But you'll have to act fast.

How cool is this? Midtown just got a Ethiopian and Eritrean restaurant. From Calgary, of all places. The Toronto offshoot of Abyssinia YYZ landed at Yonge & Davisville (2038 Yonge St., where The Pan Seared used to be). On the menu: meat, vegetarian and vegan dishes. 

Grand opening celebrations for Allwyn’s Bakery new Vaughan location (3222 Steeles Ave. W. Unit 5) took place over the weekend.

Speaking of Vaughan, Baba Calzone (7600 Weston Rd., Unit 37) just arrived, with 12 signature Mediterranean calzones including BBQ Chicken ($11.99), Cheesy Donair Calzone ($11.99), Veggie ($9.99), and Meaty Calzone (chicken, beef, pepperoni, donair, coleslaw, garlic sauce ($12.99), in addition to a build-your-own option, and array of apps, falafel, donair and kebob pitas, platters and combos.

You might know Markham’s Golden Lion Restaurant (539 Bur Oak Ave.) but their new on-site concept Ban Ban Sushi is still largely undetected.

Grocery shopping can be such a chore these days. It’s anything but at Sandra and Bernardo’s foodie destination Barcelona Gourmet (777 Danforth Ave.) offering a combination of game-changing pantry items (paella stock, gazpacho, Mumut!), alongside traditional prepared foods from Spain and Mexico (Paella, Bagetin, Tamales, Cochinita Pibil!). And whatever you do, don’t leave without housemade desserts. See you there.

BEAR Steak Sandwiches (319 Palmerston Blvd.) by Ricardo Barrientos and Aki Erenberg is many things, but none that you might expect: 1) The menu centers on a single item: made-to-order steak sarnies featuring locally sourced flank steak (grilled medium rare) and housemade chimichurri on a Portuguese-style bun. 2) There’s only one day a week to get ‘em: Sundays (though pre-orders must be in by Fridays). 3) You don’t up your order in a restaurant, shop, or even commercial kitchen: Head to a backyard in Little Italy. For now. Stay tuned.

A father and son duo is behind meat-centric Char’d Grill (925 Rathburn Rd.) in Mississauga.

Psst. Noods are a necessity in regular times, but these days? Absolutely essential. So don’t sleep on this weekend’s stellar pop-up at The Emmet Ray (924 College St.) featuring Cheng’s Noodle Shop and Strati Lasagne. 

I’ve been chronicling the launches of Chung Chun Rice Dog across the GTA for years now. So naturally, I had to let you in on their latest (1169 Central Parkway W.) in Mississauga. 

Chef Oskar Díaz Rios-Piñeiro and chef Aaron Okada’s Don Chingón Cocina Mexicana at The Depanneur (1033 College St.) is all about weekend Mexican brunch/lunch. Think tacos, tortas, tamales, totopos, and elotes. Soft opening is this weekend with a la carte items available for pickup and brunch boxes for pre-order. Re: Brunch Boxes. It seems everyone's doing them these days (I was onto these long before TikTok and the first to tell you about this new spot) - I predict these will sell out like that.

El Jefe De Pollo (3585 Keele St., Unit 9) in North York is all about halal chicken. Sandos, tenders and wings, to be exact.

Standard ice cream sandwiches are fine, but will you still love them after homemade creations by Julia Haist – aka Ernie’s Icebox – like the PB&J: vanilla brioche “toast” ice cream swirled with homemade raspberry jam between peanut butter cookie? Or Black Forest Cake: vanilla ice cream and tart cherries on a chewy double chocolate brownie? Unlikely.

I suspect your feed will soon be flooded with charcoal ice cream and cherry blossom pics as iHalo Krunch brings its signature ebony swirl - along with pints and cakes - to the High Park ‘hood (2114 Bloor St. W.). Doors open Saturday.

Island Oysters (3 Bartlett St.) just landed in Bloorcourt, two blocks east of Dufferin.

Late night concept Kitsune Friar by Markham’s Tanuki does yoshoku fare - wings, poutine, snacks - available on weekends until 6am. Read about chef/owners John-Francis Dugas and Chris Samaroo in At The Pass.

Matt’s Smokehouse just moved into Little Italy’s Nightowl (647 College St.). The new southern BBQ spot by owner/chef Matthew Horowitz and executive chef Sam Levy is a pop-up for now, but could turn into a full-time space. Stay tuned. 

Mixtura Cocina is by husband and wife team Samantha and James. Both are industry – Samantha, FOH - server, and James BOH – chef (establishments include George Restaurant). “When the pandemic hit, we both lost our jobs and decided to combine and use our talents,” Samantha says. “That's why we started selling food from home.”  The roots of the food are mainly Mexican, but “every now and then we decide to make something completely different - that's why our menus change every week.” This week, for example, focuses on dishes from Northern Thailand. Pre-order for pick up on Saturday and Sunday in the Bathurst & St. Clair area.

Radar alert: If you’re not already on One Night Only Pizza’s email list, you’ve missed out on the frenzy to get their porch pies. (I would have told you about it earlier, but they’ve been selling out for months.) Good news: They’ve softly opened a brick-and-mortar spot in Riverdale (581 Pape Ave., where Tamayo Pizza and Variety was). Bad news: Pre-ordering has already sold out. Good news: You know about it now. More good news: Watch this space.

Ombretta Cucino + Vino (121 Lakeshore Rd. W.) in Port Credit recently underwent a full-on renovation, while adding on new concept Pizzeria Rosso - the “GTA’s first glass roof covered pizzeria patio,” according to the owners.

Shawarma Royale (398 College St.) debuted Tuesday. In honour of the grand opening, customers will receive 50 per cent off the entire menu until Friday May 14.

How’s this for original backstory - Carmen started Sumo Fish as a side hustle while on mat leave. With in-laws in the seafood industry, she had “been blessed with a lot of great seafood eating opportunities” and wanted to share that with others. So she started selling wholesale “sashimi-grade” products to “those who love sushi as much as I do.” She says, “It been super hard with Covid and not being able to visit restaurants, so my goal with sumofish is to be able to bring the experience of DIY sushi home to my customers, all while providing high quality sashimi-grade products.” The ’homakase’ experience is available fresh and frozen for pickup in Markham.

Sunnyside Provisions (287 Roncesvalles Ave.) debuted this week with insanely affordable, including Fish & Chips ($7), Meatball ($4) and Turkey Confit ($7) Sandos, Devil’s Food Cake ($2.75), and Soft Serve ($3.75 or $2.75 for kids). Doors reopen Tuesday.

A second Sweetie Pie just landed at Queen and Palmerston (654 Queen St. W.).

Wallace Espresso added to the fam this week with a sweet spot two blocks east of  St. Clair and and Old Weston Road (70A Hounslow Heath Rd.). Psst. In addition to fab coffee, Blackbird pastries and other baked goods, they’ve got Shaw’s and Scotsburn ice cream.

CLOSED

Good Neighbour’s Beaconsfield Village cafe (181 Dovercourt Rd.) is making way for something new. Stay tuned.

Hounslow’s House Coffee shut down their IRL shop (70A Hounslow Heath Rd.), but you can still order their coffee beans, hot chocolate, and cookie dough online.

Little Italy’s Salumi Bar (593 College St.) has shuttered.

EVENTS

1 Billion Breaths is a campaign led by some of the best Indian restaurants in the world to raise money and awareness in support of “the country that got us here.” Restaurants from across the globe, including Toronto’s own Curryish, will be offering meals May 23-30 priced to supply 10kg of oxygen.

NEWS

Restaurant workers were finally given the go-ahead to get vaxxed on Tuesday, just as Astra-Zeneca got axed.

Restaurants Canada is calling on the federal government to provide a sector-specific support package.

The group that owns Milestones and East Side Mario's just acquired local chains The Burger’s Priest and Fresh.

Three Michelin star Eleven Madison Park will be vegan when it reopens June 10. Chef/owner Daniel Humm message on the website reads, in part: “I’m excited to share that we’ve made the decision to serve a plant-based menu in which we do not use any animal products — every dish is made from vegetables, both from the earth and the sea, as well as fruits, legumes, fungi, grains, and so much more.”

Speaking of New York, indoor dining increased to 75 percent capacity on May 7, and according to Eater, “will open at 100 percent capacity (with social distancing or partitions in place) on May 19. Ontario residents meanwhile, pray for patios.

Speaking of the States, Tim Hortons south of the border celebrated Mother’s Day is a rather perplexing fashion.

And will the U.S. chicken wing shortage affect us? Stay tuned.

A few months ago, Premier Ford and Mayor Tory spoke out against the high fees third-party delivery companies charge restaurants. They seems all but forgotten, with the yesterday's announcement of DoorDash’s new engineering site here in the 6ix.

ICYMI

Lucy Kirby - aka Breadhead Bakery - just celebrated her first work anniversary. A pretty big deal normally, but after the kind of year we’ve had? Epic. Just like her perpetually sold out creations - aka The Tie Dye Confetti Cake, Strawberry Basque Cheesecake, The Bagel Bomb, The Birthday Cruller, etc. Discover her hidden talent, favourite spots around town (soon to be yours if they’re not already), a few mottos you’d be wise to hang onto + much more in this week’s crackerjack At The Pass.

Keep up. This was the city’s newest pizza last week.

A cocktail kit for you AND a friend from Toronto Restaurants and Drinks On Friday?! Get full details. Psst. Did you miss the exclusive cocktail kit discount code for TR Newsletter subscribers? Better not take a chance this week. Subscribe now.

***

Life moves fast. (I wrote about +110 new arrivals in April alone.) Catch up on previous editions of the OPEN/CLOSED.  

Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.  

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your menu, bottle shop, upcoming patio, but you’re on a budget? We can help. *Prices have been reduced to help local businesses during this time. Limited space available.

Please support local businesses whenever possible. 

Reach foodies directly. Advertise with Toronto Restaurants. Space is limited.

At The Pass with Lucy Kirby

Photo by Sage Dakota.

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. 

🕒 8 min read

Currently

Baker/Owner of Breadhead Bakery

Formerly

Where to begin… I’ve had so many jobs in the industry. In Toronto: Sud Forno, Buca Yorkville, Buca King. In British Columbia: Hawksworth Restaurant, West Coast Fishing Club, Nelson the Seagull, Annalena, Their There Café, and now Breadhead.

Favourite dish to make right now

Kale salad with lemon, olive oil, raw garlic, dijon, and HEAPS of Parmesan.

Last cookbook purchase

Matty Matheson’s Home Style Cookery. I was actually gifted this book by my partner’s grandfather. But the book I purchased before that was Matty Matheson: A Cookbook for my partner, because in the beginning of the pandemic we cooked a LOT, and the book is approachable.

Have you read it/tried any recipes

Yeah, easily! The Broccoli Cheddar Curry Casserole thing-y was wiiiild. 

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Honestly… Roasted red pepper. I just find it slimy and it has really no flavor, to me at least. I like crunchy veg, so it doesn’t do it for me.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

I’m excited about ramps! I can’t wait to grab some and pickle them - I love stinky garlicky flavors!

Biggest influences

I traveled to Melbourne in February, and the food scene there just blew my mind. I’d say right now that bakeries down there are ones I follow and research the most. The standard for baked goods in Australia is far beyond any other country I’ve visited, and I’ve been lucky enough to travel quite a bit in my short lifetime.

I’d also say the family at Tartine in San Francisco, has been my biggest inspiration as far as the direction I’ve found myself to go in the last two years.

Breadhead Bakery Key Lime Pie.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

Noma, but that’s obvious I think for any chef who hasn’t eaten there.

Last thing you ate

Lemon Polenta Cake from Robinson Bread. Just WOW. It’s the only thing I ever really get there. No matter the flavour they REALLY know how to make a coffee cake. 

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Dill pickles, oat milk, pepperoncini.

Guilty pleasure

Super Nibs. It’s awful, cause they really do taste like plastic, but there’s something about the texture I cannot stop needing.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

In no particular order: Taverne Bernharts, Matty’s Patty’s Burger Club - seriously the best burger and chocolate shake -and then the Extra Burger, A1 Subs spots - I really, really love a nostalgic meal, and they deliver every time.

This was a tough one to answer because a lot of my fave spots have closed down because of the pandemic, and it’s horrible to see. But I am really loving the sustainable approachable bodegas and sandwich joints popping up all over place.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

This is a funny question for me – I moved back to Toronto in March of 2020, right before the pandemic spiraled out of control and right when everything shut down. I had lived in Vancouver for four years, and rarely visited Toronto, ‘cause I could never get time off (you know, like all chefs can’t), and I’m also recently allergic wine… so currently I’d have to say: Reposado for their pre-batched Margaritas. Larry’s Folly - they haven’t been able to open as a bar yet because they’re new as of last fall, and well, Covid, but the coffee people are awesome and the vibe is top notch. And then probably The Communist's Daughter – it’s closed, but it’s been a go-to for me ever since I could legally drink.

Breadhead Bakery Cinnamon Babka.

Go-to drink

Honestly right now, Margaritas, or a Kentucky Mule. I love tequila and whiskey, and now that I can’t drink wine, and beer doesn’t make me feel great, these are the two spirits I love the most. 

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Not setting a timer when I rotate trays.. I’m SO bad at that. I always set a timer to start, but then forget once I check them. I’m lucky I haven’t burnt a lot of stuff lately, but when you’re overwhelmed with orders, burning something can be the worst thing you could do to yourself for time management purposes.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

Clean bench, clean brain. If your crap is spread out everywhere, you will find tasks more chaotic. Folding towels as well, if I’m not wearing them on myself.

Hidden talent

I can skateboard, although I’m not a pro. But I love ripping through neighbourhoods with nice pavement in the summer.

Best career advice you ever received

“Don’t make love to it, bang it out.” Sometimes when you fuss over something, you tend to ruin it. Trust the process. Carlo Lazzarino told me this back when I started out. He was my first chef and mentor.

Also something I’ve always said to myself, “When in doubt, throw it out.”

Worst career advice you ever received

“You can’t have hobbies when you’re a chef” and “If this job isn’t your entire life, then maybe it’s not for you.” These came from the same person. You are not entirely your occupation. Remember that.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

Set your boundaries, don’t take shit from any man, and you’re never too poor to start your own business.

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration.

To keep up to date, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.  

OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News May 6-12, 2021

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/popups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

 🕒 13.5 min read

Brace yourself. This week’s 22 arrivals are accompanied by some big closures. Luckily, a few are reopening elsewhere in the coming weeks.

And last week’s theme of a little bit of everything continues, so switching up your usual takeout orders just got a little easier - because couldn’t you use a little easier in your life rn?

Stay tuned. More news ahead in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the TR newsletter.

In the menatime, here’s the very latest:

OPEN

A French-Moroccan inspired kitchen is just what you need to get outta your fast food slump. Atai Bistro’s (3047 Dundas St. W.) pop-up menu features just a few items: two flatbreads (Smoked Eggplant $15, Short Rib $18), Basteeya ($28) - braised chicken pie with almonds, phyllo, and brown butter hollandaise - and don’t sleep on the Mezze Platters ($30). 

The influx of fried chicken joints in the GTA these last few years has been intense, never mind the insanity that’s occurred during the pandemic. Blissful Bird, currently operating out of Snakes & Lattes (489 College St.), is doing plant-based fried ‘chickun’ (gluten-free flours, pea protein, non-GMO tofu, herbs and spices) to fill the gap for vegans, vegetarians, and anyone looking to take a break from the standard poultry version. Doors opened Friday.

Pop-up food delivery service Brindle Toronto specializes in meal kits and pastry boxes at the moment. Behind the operation: Nicole Douglas, who studied pastry at George Brown and has trained and worked at restaurants and pastry shops in Toronto, Niagara, and Vancouver; and Carlos Los de Veyra, who has worked in restaurants in Toronto and Vancouver training in Italian, French and Japanese cuisine.

CC’s Szechuan Sauce by Catherine Chen is just what your pantry needs rn. The homemade condiment with a kick is made from a family recipe in small batches without any salt or sugar. Aaaand it’s vegan, gluten-free, and nut-free. Chen - “Everyone calls me CC” - didn’t go to school for culinary studies. In fact, up until 2018, she’d spent more than a decade in the legal industry; currently, she runs MyShoperon, an early stage startup to solve the package receiving problem for condo and apartment buildings. She learned how to cook from her dad from a young age, and says, “travelling to Latin America and the Middle East opened my eyes about their amazing cuisines.” As of today, she’s made and hand delivered 1,000 jars.

Classico, a contemporary Mexican pop-up by Abraham and Abel Páez, currently at Project Gigglewater (1369 Dundas St. W.), The industry pro siblings are making from-scratch tacos, burritos, bowls, quesadillas, as well as taco kits and signature sauces, including homemade macha, a Mexican salsa made with peanuts, oil, and secret spices inspired by the traditional salsa macha from Oaxaca and Veracruz. They use artisan crafted corn tortillas from sustainable family farms in Mexico, available in three varieties - yellow, blue, and pink - all boasting unique flavours. 

Earlscourt BBQ (1278 St Clair Ave. W.) was forced to shutter at the end of 2019 due to a fire. After nearly 17 months, they’re back, currently accepting pre-orders for weekend pickup. 

Just a few blocks away, FBI Pizza (1248 St. Clair Ave. W.) debuted the first Toronto location on Wednesday. This marks the third outpost for the brand, joining Etobicoke and Woodbridge.

hanamaru market & bento (862 Pape Ave.), a small Korean and Japanese grocer on Pape near Mortimer, has a winning combination of prepared foods including bentos and sushi, fun snacks, and pantry essentials. See you there.

Mississauga’s Hee Sushi 1710 Lakeshore Rd. W.) debuts Tuesday.

While Hola Luna’s (1357 Dundas St. W.) menu offers a holy trinity of tacos, flatbreads, and nachos, I’m particularly transfixed by the Duck Soup ($8). And the dog logo, obvs.

Honey (5977 Dixie Rd.) in Mississauga does serious comfort fare by way of Braised Brisket (Sandwich $15, Mac $19), Lasagna (Momma’s OG $19, Cee’s Veggie $17), Wings ($19) and more.

Maru Japanese Bistro kicks off service tomorrow in the digs formerly occupied by The Green Wood (1402 Queen St. E.) in Leslieville.

I experience an overwhelming sense of déjà vu on the regular doing the OPEN/CLOSED. Didn’t I just write about a new Monkey Sushi? Yep. But the chain isn’t stopping there - a satellite just dropped in Markham (3623 Hwy 7, Unit 115).

After what is perhaps the longest winter in recent history, your palate needs serious livening up. Say hello North York’s Mr. Fish (5321 Yonge St.) that specializes in sour, spicy fish stews, many featuring sauerkraut. Also on the menu: braised dishes, salads, and fried nibbles.

Oh Snack! (78 Gerrard St. W.) at Gerrard and Bay has a long list of affordably-priced Hong Kong meals, snacks and drinks.

North York just got a new Turkish Grill. Introducing: Ocakbasi Restaurant (4544 Dufferin St.) at Finch and Dufferin.

Korean bubble tea shop Palgong Tea debuted at Yonge and Bloor (53 Bloor St. E.) this week.

Rikos Kitchen (1603 The Queensway) in Etobicoke launched earlier this week with comfort fare made for lockdown life: tacos, pizza, and wings.

Scoops Ahoy! in East York (2714 St. Clair Ave. E.), brought to you by Rise and Dine Eatery, is a “neighbourhood sweet tooth shack” featuring all your summertime needs: ice cream, gelato, mini doughnuts, Slush Puppies, and assortment of Greek delicacies. 

Psst. Dan Ewing and Brett Feeley are two “COVID underemployed dads” who have been spent the last year baking and making a ton of pizzas. Since sourdough has had a resurgence due to the lockdowns, they thought, “Why not sourdough pizza? It’s big in the U.K. but not here.” After a lot of practice, and consulting with sourdough and pizza pros in the U.S. and Canada, Slowhand Sourdough Pizza was born. Their first sourdough Detroit style pop-up is happening this weekend in Riverdale, with pre-orders required by today at noon. Missed out? Keep your eyes locked here.

Mike Won left his six-figure job during the pandemic to work on SuLee Kimchi with his sister Su Jin. The traditional Korean kimchi venture is inspired by and dedicated to their mother who passed away in 2018 (the logo features her signature). She cooked in restaurants for upwards of 30 years, specializing in Korean cuisine. She also had her own eatery near Yonge and Finch a few years ago with Su Jin, who has 25 years experience and owned a sushi restaurant in Newfoundland. The siblings launched the biz on April 4, offering free delivery across Toronto/GTA. Mike says, “Our hope is to one day open up a storefront to showcase a broad range of Korean dishes and expose people to dishes that are not commonly represented today, apart from what’s most popular such as pork bone soup, K-BBQ, Japchae, Kalbi etc.”

Stephen Payne started his hot dog biz back in 2014, known until recently as Kungfu Dawg. After two stands, numerous pop-ups, and seven years, the newly minted Woofdawg Hotdog landed its first brick-and-mortar home (1357 Dundas St. W., shared with Hola Luna) to showcase the Toronto-made original recipe with natural casing hot dogs.

CLOSED

Agincourt Bakery & Italian Kitchen Ltd. (3059 Pharmacy Ave.) in Scarborough has closed after 37 years. But hang tight - it’s not forever. Tony, Dora, Enza, Rocky, and Anthony will be back. Stay tuned.

Buro 53 (53 Bloor St. E.) has been replaced by a bubble tea shop. See above.

Kravingz (1710 Lakeshore Rd. W.) has permanently closed due to the pandemic. A post regarding the closure reads in part, “Like other mom and pop shops, the lockdowns have failed us.”

The building that housed Little Nicky’s Coffee (375 Queen Street W.) has been demolished.

After nearly five years, Los Guaca-Moles (690 Euclid Ave.) said farewell to the home in Koreatown.

Love Chix isn’t at 1588 Dupont St. anymore, but you can still get your chicken fix at their spot nearby, Century Park Tavern (33 Powerhouse St.).

Maiz Arepa Bar (490 Queen St. W.) closed down last week, though three other locations remain: Yonge & Lawrence,  Roncesvalles Village, and The Junction.

Scarborough Buffet (1221 Markham Rd.) is moving to new digs. Stay tuned.

EVENTS

You’ve got until tomorrow to get in on La Pizza Week.

Taste of Mississauga continues until Monday.

Farmers’ markets are opening across the province. For Toronto markets, check out the City’s guide and Greenbelt website for now.

NEWS  

Aldo Lista, founder of Old Credit Brewery, passed away.

Pfft. Croissant cubes are so last week. Brioche cubes have taken over. Get them at east side croissanterie La Beau Lab, and read about accomplished pastry chef Olga Spivak in At The Pass.

Workers walked out of the Nestle chocolate plant in Toronto. 

CaféTO curb lane installations are set to start Saturday, while outdoor dining remains prohibited.

There’s been a spate of break-ins lately, including Bluebird Bar and Tondou Ramen.

JIANGSHI: Blood in the Banquet Hall by Banana Chan and Sen-Foong Lim is a new role playing game about a Chinese family running a restaurant in a Chinatown in the U.S. in 1920 faced with adversity including societal backlash, anti-Chinese laws, and jiangshi - hopping vampires. (As if regular vampires aren’t terrifying enough.) Eep. 

Does Quebec own poutine?

ICYMI

Joachim (Joe) Hayward, co-owner and chef of one of the city’s new gems, Crosley’s, is charmingly candid about everything: the last thing he ate, what he really thinks about a long-standing motto, and why a certain ingredient has to go. He also imparts important advice that applies whether you’re industry or not - though chefs will want to heed the last bit in particular. Discover more in this week’s compelling At The Pass.

Did you know? Toronto’s downtown Chinatown is home to 125+ restaurants, cafes + bakeries? That the area boasts an array of cuisines including Caribbean, Mexican and Indonesian? That one restaurant’s roots goes back to 1751? There are a myriad of incredible eateries - many small, family-owned and run - to discover and support. See for yourself in the epic Toronto Restaurants Food + Drink Guide to Chinatown.

***

Life moves fast. (There were +110 new arrivals in April alone.) Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.  

Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.  

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your menu, bottle shop, upcoming patio, but you’re on a budget? We can help. *Prices have been reduced to help local businesses during this time. Limited space available.

Please support local businesses whenever possible. 

Reach foodies directly. Advertise with Toronto Restaurants. Space is limited.

At The Pass with Joachim (Joe) Hayward

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.

🕒 4.5 min read

Currently

Chef/Co-owner, Crosley’s

Formerly

Toronto: Brothers Food and Wine. UK: The Dairy, The Redan Inn. Vancouver: Campagnolo Roma.

Favourite dish to make right now

Chunky, veg-heavy salads, with loads of sherry vinegar and aged cheese.

Last cookbook purchase

Quality Chop House: Modern Recipes and Stories from a London Classic by Daniel Morgenthau, Shaun Searley, and William Launder

Have you read it/tried any recipes

Read most of it. Their Whipped Cod’s Roe is the best there is.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

People need to chill with the edible flowers, I just don’t see how they contribute to a dish beyond aesthetics. Nasturtiums get a hard pass though.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus 

Forced Rhubarb out of Lennox Farms in Melanchton, ON. Only problem is that they’re having a tough time growing this year, so it’s hard to source right now.

Crosley's At Home dinners are available for pickup and delivery.

Biggest influences

My family, and my colleagues -old and new alike.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

I’m really bummed I never got to eat at Eleven Madison Park. I took a lot of restaurants like that for granted pre-Covid. But if I could go anywhere for dinner tonight… it would have to be Firedoor in Sydney, Australia.

Last thing you ate

 I want to say lobster burger or something cheffy like that, but it was a bag of Hardbite Honey Dijon Chips, no lie.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Eggs, butter, XO Sauce (homemade or store-bought)

Guilty pleasure

Buffalo hot wings with a side of ranch and the obligatory celery and carrot sticks, chased down with an ice cold domestic lager.

Vitello Tonnato Sandwich. Breaded and Fried Veal Cutlet, Homemade Brioche, Iceberg Lettuce, Tonnato Sauce.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants 

Edulis, Alma, Pinky’s Ca Phe

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

Pretty Ugly (RIP), Communist’s Daughter, Bar Volo

Go-to drink

Negroni, so cliché.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

I have a tendency to move too quickly and erratically during service… bad habit from my London days.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

Ask questions. Even as a leader it’s important to show young cooks that you’re human, and don’t have all the answers. Everyday is a school day.

Hidden talent

I’m really good at a select handful of impressions.

Best career advice you ever received

“You are the only thing standing in your way.” Another cliché, but wise words from my past chef and mentor Robert Belcham.

Worst career advice you ever received 

The customer is always right. What a crock of shit.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

Learn to walk before you can run. Learn the basics. Be humble but know your worth and your rights in the workplace.

Pay no attention to Bro or Chef culture. Focus on the task at hand before the other 15 or 20.

Have a plan, something to work towards, even on a small scale - i.e. work on that bevel of the knife tip you can’t seem to nail when sharpening, or that hollandaise sauce that always seems to split five minutes after it’s made. If you’re willing, there is always room to grow.

Lastly, taste your fucking food before you send it please.

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration.

To keep up to date, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.