Stephanie Dickison's Blog, page 34

Forget pineapple - Do grapes belong on pizza?

🕒 6 min read

In early March, celebrity chef Jamie Oliver posted a photo to Instagram that nearly broke the internet: pizza topped with grapes (above).

The versatile fruit proved to be as divisive a garnish as pineapple, while others have been getting away with it for years - figs, often paired with prosciutto and balsamic; pears, a popular partner to gorgonzola and walnuts. The pineapple debate rages on, even spurring its own hashtag on social media: #pineapplebelongsonpizza.

Grapes, of all things, appear to have pushed the limit, begging the question(s): What constitutes an acceptable topping? Is anything scattered across dough considered pizza? And when has it gone too far?

Anything goes

Ingredients that may have raised eyebrows just a few years ago, are now perfectly acceptable atop a crust, no matter its thick- or thinness. Take Salt & Tobacco’s Lil' Cabbagetown, featuring not one, but two items that are likely to cause contention: Brussels sprouts and blue cheese. Same goes for the polarizing Broccoli Stilton by Pizza Del Arte.

Big Trouble Pizza’s Butter Jam Jam goes in a different direction, keeping things traditional with mozzarella until swaths of butter cream and raspberry jam arrive to the party.

Fowl play 

Barbecue chicken has been a mainstay since the mid-80s without causing fury, and buffalo/chipotle/jerk/pesto varieties have been conventional for what seems like forever.

Pizza Hut’s recent launch of limited-time “culinary masterpiece” KFC Popcorn Chicken Pizza in Canada however, takes poultry pizza to the extreme: KFC gravy, topped with cheese, sweet corn, and Popcorn Chicken on a pan crust.

Photo courtesy of Maker Pizza. Return of the Mac.

Meat market

Scan a pizza shop’s menu and you’ll find heaps of pepperoni and deli meat to choose from. Ground beef has been making inroads over the years - on taco-esque iterations such as those by Regino’s Pizza, Slice of the 6ix, and aptly named Toppings.

Then there’s the ever popular burger-cum-pizza. Big House Pizza, shuttered in 2019, made headlines years ago for The John A. MacDonald festooned with ground all-beef patties, cheddar, pickles, and onions on a season seed crust, topped with lettuce and special sauce. Others have joined in on the fun, including Big Brothers Gourmet Pizza and Maker Pizza. 

Independent spots aren’t the only ones staking a claim on the mashup: Domino’s introduced the Cheeseburger (and Chicken Taco) to their lineup last fall.

Cut above

“Meat lover” options that verge on ginormous open-faced sandos are prevalent across the GTA. The Big Greek at Milano’s Pizza in Etobicoke boasts sliced gyro, while Markham’s Slice of Fire offers two selections that despite their shape, could be mistaken for delectable sarnies: Montreal Steak and Philly Cheese Steak.

New collab by celebrity chef Massimo Capra and Paramount Fine Foods CEO Mohamad Fakih - Masemo Pizza by Paramount - centers a pie around beef basterma, an Armenian air-cured spiced beef, while Texas style smoke house The BarBQ Factory in East York pulls out all the stops, with pizzas blanketed in smoked meat including pulled pork, brisket, pulled lamb, and pork ribs.

No passport required

Fusion concoctions are de rigeur these days. Why stick with traditional ingredients when you can get the best of both worlds? Most chains offer versions well outside the Italian lines these days, but standalones are paving the way to the new world with their epic creations.

Photo courtesy of Saints Island Pies. Chicken Adobo Island Pie.

Detroit-style pies with “island flavour” by Saints Island Pies includes Filipino staple Chicken Adobo, and an ode to breakfast decked out in Longanisa sausage and fried egg. And Descendant Detroit Style Pizza’s Sri Lankan journey – aka Jaffna – showcases components that you wouldn’t expect in a pizzeria, save for the Calabrian chilis: kothu roti, mango chutney, cilantro cream, green onion, cilantro, and coconut sambol.

The Parlour’s Yaletown, adorned with Ahi tuna, red onion, green onion, avocado, jalapeno, cilantro, and spicy aioli, is one of the few sushi pizzas you’ll find outside of a Japanese restaurant.

And you’ve got to act fast for Pizza Conzo’s non-traditional pies - they’re available as specials only. Did you miss their jerk-style jaunt? The epic Chinese New Year drop? Psst. More unconventional wonders coming soon…

Worlds collide 

Another popular hybrid these days brings a wildly unexpected dish together with your beloved ‘za.

The Holy Duck by newcomer Church of Pizza is unapologetically duck poutine on pizza: beef gravy sauce, mozzarella cheese, cheese curds, shaved smoked duck breast, French fries, caramelized onions, and chives, topped with their signature bulb of roasted garlic.

Photo courtesy of Mel’s Pizza. Clam Pasta Pizza.

Haligonian import Jessy's Pizza gets namechecked for its donair pie all the time, but the Chicken Caesar featuring all the salad fixings including Caesar dressing and bacon bits, is just as noteworthy.

Italian for Vegan’s Smoked Salmon pizza bianco with olive oil, smoked carrot, cream “cheese” (cashew based), capers, and red onions is serious bagel vibes whether it’s pizza night or midday brunch. Goldy lox indeed. 

New arrival Mel’s Pizza brings your love of pasta and pizza together, one convenient slice at a time with Clam Pasta Pizza. Clams and angel hair pasta tossed in vodka sauce fortified with clam liquor, set atop dough shellacked with garlic butter and housemade seafood seasoning, finished with pecorino, fresh parsley, and lemon wedge, is the very definition of carboloading. The only catch? You need a password to access it.

Pizzeria Via Mercanti’s eponymous double decker features ricotta, prosciutto cotto, mushroom medley, hot soppressata, finished with… a whole Margherita pie. 

Maybe a few l’il grapes don’t seem so out of place after all.

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For breaking news, updates, interviews + more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.

At The Pass with Sam La

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. 

 🕒 4.5 min read

Currently

Sous Chef, Mira Mira

Formerly 

I started working in the “heart of house” with no kitchen experiences as a line cook. I was lucky enough to meet many wonderful chefs, colleagues and mentors that helped shape me up to who I am today. I was Chef de Tournant at multiple restaurants within Chase Hospitality Group including Colette Grand Cafe, The Chase, and Palm Lane.

Favourite dish to make right now

Garlic butter sea snails. I know some people will say "Yuck!” but seriously, c'mon - It's not going to be delicious if you're not going to put love into it!

Last cookbook purchase

The majority of my cookbooks are gifted to me. The very last one I got for myself I think was Enchanted by Vietnam: A Journey of Flavours Through Vietnam by Truong Thi Quyen. 

Have you read it/tried any recipes 

Not yet, but would definitely love to try making the Red Curry Clams one day.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Bean sprouts - I just can't take it, either cooked or raw.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

Pandan - you can literally do anything with it, from making beverages and desserts to sauces.

Biggest influences

Friends and family, and a big shout out to my mentor/coach, Amira Becarevic, chef/owner of Mira Mira.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

I'm not a big fan of all fancy restaurants out there, but I'm totally down to try all the street foods served by locals around the world.  

Last thing you ate

Korean Fried Chicken and Pickled Radish. Extra pickles please!

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Sriracha, Butter, Eggs. 

Guilty pleasure

Iced Vietnamese Coffee or alternatively, the Shaken Iced Espresso with White Chocolate Mocha from Starbucks.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants 

Kinka Izakaya, Pho Mi Viet Hoa, Jim Chai Kee

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

N/A. I'm not a huge drinker.

Go-to drink

Vodka Cranberry.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Not drinking enough water... yep, I know!

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs:

Cleanliness and always on the move! Don't stop until the list is all checked.

Hidden talent

Assembling things. Literally anything!

Best career advice you ever received 

"You got time to lean, you got time to clean" - Chef Jane MacDonald, my former Executive Sous Chef at Colette Grand Café. 

Worst career advice you ever received

*long story short*: I once was asked to cover a night shift at a sister's restaurant of my employer, I used my parents as my reason not to take the shift. My boss flipped and started cursing at my parents, so I quit. Last thing she told me was,"Keep that attitude and no one will ever hire you!" Well, here we are. :) 

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

If you're not sure about something, ASK! Don't be shy. That's how you learn. We're all human and everyone makes mistakes. Treat your station like your playground, have fun, and be creative with it.   

——— 

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.    

For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter. 

Open/Closed: Toronto Restaurant News March 18-24, 2021

🕒 10 min read

Are you still reeling from daylight savings? Or did you go all out for St. Paddy’s? I’ve got just the thing to make you feel better. Make that things.

Whether you’re in the mood to sink your teeth into unctuous comfort food or phenomenal finer fare, this week’s 22 arrivals offer something for everyone - and every palate. And stay tuned – more news ahead in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the TR newsletter. 

In the meantime, here’s the very latest:

OPEN

Aunty Lucy’s Burgers launches today inside Leslieville’s The Dive Shop (1036 Gerrard St. E.) for a limited time.

It’s been a minute since the last popup by The Bajan Kitchen, so be ready Saturday for the new menu drop, dates, times and locations. 

Church of Pizza (580 Church St.), Storm Crow Manor’s new delivery concept (and latest pizza enterprise with a hallowed name) comes with a signature move: Each pie is studded with a roasted head of garlic.

Add small-batch ice cream shop Creamery X (124 Jarvis St.) at Queen and Jarvis to your to-do list. Owners Bonnie and Melissa ditched their corporate gigs to start the biz, operating out of a rented commercial kitchen since fall. Good news: their new kitchen/pickup spot just landed downtown. Current flavours include, brown butter coffee, butterscotch custard infused with rosemary, and goat cheese with a hint of lemon and layers of sweet fig jam.

TheGSpot’s provocative name might pique your interest, but it doesn’t indicate the type of food served. Too bad, because the halal certified spot at World Food Market (335 Yonge St.) boasts the food equivalent of a mic drop: Jerk Chicken, Shrimp & Lobster Bowl set atop a halved pinapple with pineapple fried rice. Grand opening took place January 15.  

Gonzo Izakaya (940 College St.) moved into Faim de Loup’s former digs earlier this week with a selection of appetizers, donburi, teppanyaki, and udon. 

Acclaimed chef Alyssa Figueira (Toronto’s Auberge du Pommier, Atelier Crenn in San Francisco, Amass in Copenhagen) and Owen Walker (bartender and co-owner of El Rey and Quetzal) just launched Guud Funk, a small batch fermentation company focusing on environmental consciousness and Canadian ingredients. The process that goes into each product is phenomenal (the work that goes into the Hot Sauce alone). And how have we gone this long without Carrot Vinegar in our lives? There are more products on the way. In the meantime, check out the fab pop up with sara Restaurant, available for pre-order Friday and Saturday.

Etobicoke’s Hotties Smashburgers (2324 Lakeshore Blvd. W., Unit 1) menu - smash burgers, hot dogs, cheese fries – pairs well with your current mood/wardrobe choices.

Pre-orders are finally open for Mama Akua’s Ghanaian Food (1566 Queen St. W.) latest popup: Fufu with Chicken Light Soup ($15), Jollof ($10), Red Red ($10), Spinach Stew with Yam ($15), and Bofrot/Beignets ($2/2 pcs). Pro tip: Avoid fomo and order the whole shebang. 

Munchies second venue just dropped at Yonge and Dundas (World Food Market - 335 Yonge St.), and while the square footage may be small, their delivery menu is mighty. Burgers, tacos, pizza, and wings are always welcome, but zero in and you’ll find treasures of Lemon Pepper Wings, Mutton Poutine, and Brown Man Patty (coco bread, spicy mayonnaise, Jamaican patty, shredded butter chicken, topped with house coleslaw, and mango salsa, served with fries and pop), and Deep Fried McCain Cake. 

The extensive menu at Mississauga’s Parathas n Rolls (2903 Derry Rd. E.) includes appetizers, kathi rolls, curries, and a whopping 24 parathas (18 vegetarian, 5 meat/poultry).

The sign at Pho Co Duong (854 Sheppard Ave. W.) near Dufferin reads, “The most famous Vietnamese beef noodle soup.” Enjoy 15 per cent off until April 3 during grand opening celebrations.

You don’t have to choose between sweet or savoury at Sharman's Proper Pies (160 Baldwin St.). The second shop debuted in Kensington Market March 6.

Parkdale’s speakeasy The Standard (1316 Queen St. W.) pulls back the curtain with not-so-secret pizzeria Prohibition Pie. Choose from eight pies including spinach leek pesto swathed Tommy Two-Shrooms, Dillinger Deluxe, vegetarian The Goat Father (Part 2), and uh, Sausage Fest.

Radar alert: Quito by Chef Diego Reyes (Noma, El Celler de Can Roca is popping up Saturday at Viaggio (1727 Dundas St. W.) with an luscious Ecuadorian feast for pre-order. Prix Fixe For Two $100.

ISO a jolt of java? Head to Simple Coffee (1636B Queen St. E.) at Queen and Coxwell.

The extensive menu at Trattoria Di Parma (785 Danforth Ave.) ranges from comfort food (pizza, baked pastas) to elevated fare (Mushroom Carpaccio, Veal Marsala).

Upper East Food Club (5317 Yonge St.) in North York is switching things up again. Say hello to new additions The Good Goods, Patco Cafe and Torched Pressed Sushi. 

You heard it here first: Chef Jon Klip’s new venture is the at home fine dining experience you’ve been waiting for. The CIA grad launched Toronto Bento this month after a trial run in November, followed by a New Year’s collab with Sakai Bar. Orders are taken a day in advance. Pickup only (Dundas/Ossington).

If you’re not snapping pics of fluffy eggs tucked in-between house baked milk bread for your feed, are you even alive? Wonder Egg (4893 Yonge St., 2nd Fl, above Kung Fu Tea) boosts their sandos with avocado, sweet shrimp, tuna, or bulgogi, finished with ubiquitous mayo drizzle.

CLOSED

Gone but not forgotten. I reminisce often about the stellar meal I had Summer ‘19 at Chef Jeff Yap’s Faim de Loup (940 College St.).

Tala’s last day at their current location (294 Dundas St. W.) is Monday. Stay tuned. I’ll have where they land next soon.

Torched Pressed Sushi’s eatery at 6026 Yonge St. is temporarily closed due to a nearby fire. They remain open at Upper East Food Club at 5317 Yonge St.

NEWS

Not on the list. Ontario restaurant workers will not get the COVID-19 vaccine in Phase 2.

Peel Region wants two changes made to the Red Zone Policy For Restaurants, ones that will benefit Toronto businesses, if approved.

Earlier this week, Peter Sanagan, owner of Sanagan's Meat Locker, shared that an employee tested positive for COVID-19 at the Kensington Market location. That same day, he shared an update and comprehensive breakdown of the situation.

Multiple employees at Pusateri’s Avenue Road store tested positive for COVID-19. A “detailed update” was emailed to newsletter subscribers.

Chef Jason Bangerter of Langdon Hall is a finalist for this year’s 100 Best Chef Awards.

Chef Noel Cunningham won The Black Foodie Battle last week with his rich Guinness-Braised Oxtail with Pan-Fried Spinners.

Toronto chef Luke Donato is the subject of new documentary, Until Further Notice.

In celebrity news: Jason Momoa stopped by Pai, Gwyenth Paltrow opened a Goop ghost kitchen in LA, and to “celebrate the final season of ‘Keeping Up With The Kardashians,’” Joey Restaurants decided to “curate the ultimate Kardashian-inspired menu.”

ICYMI

Chef Marc-Elie Lissade, co-owner of French Creole restaurant Boukan and CEO of Black Apron Events, has an affinity for a timeless cocktail, is a whiz at a certain game, and shares wise words for all. Discover more in this week’s At The Pass.

Discover why free livestream concert series Wednesday Night Special is such an important event.

With so many ice cream arrivals lately, it’s hard to keep track of them all. I can help with that.

Industry Reminder: The first registration window will be closing soon, so get your applications in for this year’s CaféTO patio program.

____  

Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.  

Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.  

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your business without spending a whack of dough? Get in touch. 

Please support local businesses whenever possible.

At The Pass with Marc-Elie Lissade

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. 

🕒 4 min read

Currently

Executive chef/Co-owner of Boukan Restaurant, CEO of Black Apron Events

Formerly 

Sous chef at La Creole

Favourite dish to make right now 

Creole Ratatouille (Legumes), vegan.

Last cookbook purchase

I was gifted one a year ago. To be honest I cannot recall.

Have you read it/tried any recipes

The cookbook was from a well known Jamaican chef. I read it and tried the Pea Soup.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Fake crab meat.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

Plantains.

Biggest influences

My Grandma, my Mom, Alain Lemaire and Bobby Flay.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

Bird’s Nest Restaurant in Thailand or Grotta Palazzese in Italy.

Last thing you ate

Cereal - Honey Bunches of Oats with Almonds. 

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Thyme, garlic, parsley.

Guilty pleasure

Wine! 

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Canoe, Chubby’s Jamaican Kitchen, and La Cubana.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

Spin Toronto, CC Lounge & Whisky Bar, and Cold Tea.

Go-to drink

Long Island Iced Tea.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Grabbing a hot pan without a towel or gloves.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

Constantly cleaning.

Hidden talent

Master at playing ping pong.  

Best career advice you ever received

It doesn’t matter if another chef is doing the same thing as you - we all can follow the same recipe, but every single dish will be different because we all have our own cooking style, energy and passion. - Chef Alain Lemaire

Worst career advice you ever received

To stay in the corporate world because it’s a secured paycheque.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

To not give up when things get harder. Keep pushing because when things get complicated you are getting closer to your dream. If cooking is your passion please do not stop and do not worry about how long the process is .. we all have our set time and when you get there you’ll know it. DO NOT GIVE UP.  

——— 

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.    

For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter. 

Open/Closed: Toronto Restaurant News March 11-17, 2021

🕒 9 min read

This week’s 22 discoveries are largely burger joints and popups. Which is not a bad thing. However, I’m particularly elated by all the talented chefs who are breaking out and launching exciting ventures of their own. So stay tuned. There are many, many, many more to come.

In the meantime, here’s the very latest:

OPEN

Asukal by pastry chef Caroline Marquez has one helluva sweet menu including Ube Macarons, Milk Chocolate Pecan Butter Tarts, and are you ready for it? Filipino Sio-Baos.  

Black Sheep Burger Co. just launched five ghost kitchens across the GTA. Alongside the customary lineup of patties, poutines and chicken sandos, you’ll find sliders - an item that was everywhere in the early to mid 2000s, so pairs well with your crop tops, baby tees, and flared jeans.

Chef Miriam Echeverria’s stellar new popup Cheffing launched earlier this week with a ‘Flavours of Mexico’ prix fixe menu ($35pp – min order of two) featuring Appetizer Trio, Pescado a la Veracruzana (Sea Bass with tomato, banana pepper and olive sauce, served with white rice) and Tres Leches Cake for dessert. Pro tip: Be sure to nab pantry essential Birria Paste ($15) before it sells out.

Distinguishing itself from the mass of recent chicken arrivals, The Chicken Cartel popup (25 Planchet Rd., Unit 6) in Vaughan shakes things up with poultry doused with international flavours - Tikka Chika ($12), El Jefe ($12), Thai green curry pie Chicksplosion ($12), and Smoking Barrel ($12) boasting roll of jerk chicken, grilled pineapple, creamy slaw, pepper sauce, scallion mayo, plantain and roti.

Chungchun Rice Dogs launches tomorrow in Scarborough (3250 Midland Ave., Unit G112). To celebrate, their Korean-style franks will be available for $2.99 across select locations.

North York is the latest recipient of Fresh Burger (3355 Steeles Ave. E., Unit C-4), a GTA chain specializing in 100 per cent Canadian Angus beef burgers. 

Eva’s Original Chimneys in Toronto (454 Bloor St. W.) and Port Credit (53 Lakeshore Rd. E.) has been home to a number of popups recently. Guerrilla Burger’s vegan menu - Beyond Meat burgers, salads, mac and ‘cheeze’, and chili – is available for a limited time.

Chef Onur Yilma spent time in kitchens as far flung as Antalya, Turkey, and just south of the border in Leland, Michigan before cooking up a storm at Toronto’s own Four Seasons, Cafe Boulud and Cactus Club. For the last three years, he’s focused on making his dream a reality: Ice Creamonology (390 Queens Quay W., Unit 106A). Current flavours include Turkish Coffee, Pistachio, Almond & Caramel, and White Chocolate & Blueberry Cheesecake. 

Dreaming of Mexico? Since a trip is out of the question, taco and ceviche popup La Perla Cevicheria by Milagro on Mercer (5 Mercer St.) in the Entertainment District is the next best thing.

Lonzo’s Kitchen (80 Nashdene Rd.) in Scarborough open tomorrow tomorrow. What to expect: Mains of chicken, beef, and falafel served atop rice, fries or salad.

Restaurants are in Danny Joo’s veins. The veteran server (Terroni) grew up in the biz – his parents owned Korean eateries in Koreatown in Toronto and New York. Ode to his mum ‘Mama Joo,’ micro-batched MaMa Joo’s Hot Sauce has been in the works for awhile: “I’ve always toyed with fun hot sauces and my friends and family loved them.” Created using original recipes as well as ones passed down, the current lineup includes next-level hot sauces (Burning Berries, Charlie Sauce Hot Mustard, O.G., Manic Mango, Piss Hot Pineapple) and hot relish (Sizzling Cilantro, Raging Relish).

Hot tip: Do not sleep on Mamaliga Romanian Kitchen by talented chef Haan Palcu-Chang. Stock up on items including Sarmale ($20) - three cabbage rolls served with sour cream and mamaliga (polenta), Salata De Ardei Copți Cu Castraveți/Roasted Pepper & Cucumber Salad ($6), and Papanași ($11) - Romanian cheese donut with homemade Ontario sour cherry compote and organic sour cream. Pick up at the side entrance of Sam James Coffee (141 Ossington Ave.).

M&CO. Burgers set up shop in Mississauga (812 Britannia Rd., Unit 101), the third outpost for the 100 per cent Halal brand.

Doors opened January 8 for Naeb Restaurant (10165 Yonge St.) in Richmond Hill. Choose from an enticing array of Persian kebabs, stews and platters.

Narenj (131 Kerr St.) in Oakville has softly opened, with a grand opening to follow next week. On the menu: a host of housemade pastries including éclairs in Saffron White Chocolate or Pistachio and Date Jam. 

Korean bubble tea chain Palgong Tea has popped up at North York General Hospital (4001 Leslie St.).

Macarons are a delight on their own. Rois Cream Bake Shop (382 Keele St.) cream-filled macarons - Red Bean Butter (red bean cream, gourmet butter) Black Sesame Latte (Black sesame cream, coffee cream) Lotus Caramel (Lotus crumble and cookie, caramel cream) and Cheese Burger (cheddar cheese cream, Ritz, cream cheese) – are worth saving room for.

The first brick-and-mortar Runner Market moved into what was back in the day Playa Cabana’s Cocina Economica (141 Berkeley St.) with an assortment of items, including fresh coffee and items from local restaurants.

CLOSED

Chocolat De Kat may have closed up shop (881 St. Clair Ave. W.), but more is on the horizon.

Ditto for their roomie Lion Coffee (881 St. Clair Ave. W.).

Leslieville’s Yard Sale Bar (1062 Gerrard St. E.) has come to an end, but a new project is in the works. Stay tuned.

EVENTS

An exhilarating new concert series featuring local artists + top Toronto restaurants is underway.

NEWS

OPSEU wasn’t having it with 7-Eleven before. Now they’ve taken action.

Restaurant and food service workers want to be on Ontario's Phase 2 Vaccination List.

The Ontario Restaurant and Bar Support Fund has a Grant Program available for select hospitality businesses who qualify.

What won’t Nathen Mazri do? First Garfield, now Scooby Doo.

Hank Daddy’s Barbecue in Vaughan nabbed second place for their Nashville Hot Sauce at the National Barbecue & Grilling Association (NBBQA) Awards of Excellence. And they have Cheerwine! #ifyouknowyouknow

There’s a certain brunch box going viral on TikTok. Pfft. I was onto it last summer. #beintheknow

ICYMI

Michael Lam, chef de cuisine of Ascari King St, just launched Good Behaviour Ice Cream with Eric Chow. Discover his biggest influences, favourite spots around town, hidden talent + much more in this week’s At The Pass.

Support your neighbourhood haunts and favourite spots by purchasing their merch - tees, totes + other covetable items. Shop +40 restaurants, bars, breweries, and cafes and *add to cart* now.

The ice cream arrivals above got you craving something sweet? Check out The Ultimate Guide to Ice Cream + Frozen Treats for +140 destinations across the GTA.

____ 

Did you miss the news of an iconic New York restaurant on the way in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the weekly TR Newsletter? There’s a quick fix for that.

Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.  

Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.  

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your business without spending $$$? Get in touch. 

Please support local businesses whenever possible.

Reach foodies directly. Advertise in the next newsletter or Open/Closed. Space is limited.

At The Pass with Michael Lam

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.  

🕒 4 min read

Currently 

Partner & Chef, Good Behaviour Ice Cream; Chef de Cuisine, Ascari King St.

Formerly

Il Covo, Toronto; The Modern Restaurant, New York; Quay Restaurant, Sydney

Favourite dish to make right now

Any stews or soups during the winter months. The aroma of slow cooked meals permeates our home and makes it feel so warm.

Last cookbook purchase 

Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream by Laura O'Neill, Benjamin Van Leeuwen, Peter Van Leeuwen with Olga Massov

Have you read it/tried any recipes

I love reading the stories but have not tried any of the recipes yet. And I love the journey and steps they took to get to where they are now! Unfortunate that I did not end up eating there while I lived in NYC.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Microgreens that don’t contribute to the dish.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

More ice cream!! Savoury ice creams!

Biggest influences

Gracia Bunarto, Wife
Eric Chow, Business Partner
Ryan Campbell, Jefe
Abram Bissell, formerly the executive chef at The Modern in NYC

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

I would love to bring my wife to a restaurant in Sydney, Ormeggio at the Spit. I had such a relaxing and hospitable lunch in 2014 that still resonates to this day.

Last thing you ate

Cheestring.

Michael Lam and Eric Chow, Good Behaviour Ice Cream.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Eggs, deli meats, Simply Orange Juice WITH pulp!

Guilty pleasure 

Late night deli meats and cheese at 10pm.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Canton Chilli, Tinuno, Il Covo

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

The Cloak Bar, 416 Snack Bar, Bar Raval

Go-to drink

Last Word - gin, green chartreuse, maraschino liqueur, lime juice. 

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Not drinking enough water!

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

Keeping the work station clean and organized.

Hidden talent 

Making a duck’s quack sound. Can’t do any other animals… just a duck!

Best career advice you ever received

“The money will come. Work hard, build relationships, take criticism and feedback.” - my mom, Mai Lam

Worst career advice you ever received 

Chase the money!

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

We look for three things when we are hiring cooks at the restaurant:

 1. Have a sense of urgency.
2. Work organized and clean.
3. Care and love what you are doing!

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In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.    

For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.  

Resto Merch - Support local restaurants, but make it fashion

🕒 6.5 min read

 You’re already familiar with the countless ways to support restaurants, bars, cafes, bakeries, breweries and other food/drink businesses right now: Order takeout/delivery whenever you can (order directly from the eatery’s website when possible; even better, pick up the phone), pack your pantry/fridge/freezer with luscious restaurant fare, skip the LCBO and shop local bottle shops, purchase gift cards, post photos of your orders, etc.

Another way to show your love and appreciation: merch. Much like your beloved concert tees and jackets, apparel from your favourite dive bar, burger joint, and date night haunt, is a fun, fab way to support these places while keeping your fit game on point. 

Branded clothing and accessories used to be a costly and largely ineffective way to market a hospitality biz, but time’s have changed, and out of the ashes of the pandemic has risen a movement of unwavering support from the public for theses cornerstones of our communities, our lives.

The days of pricey garb made of flimsy material in unflattering hues with logos that barely hung in after a few washes are long gone, replaced with quality, fashion-forward items that complement your carefully curated closet. Think stretchy tees that go with everything, slick hoodies you want to live in, dope toques and snapbacks in heavy rotation, stylish totes that do triple duty (because wine, books, and takeout won’t carry themselves).

Take a look:

Shop fresh tops from heavy hitters such as Beast, Donna’s, The Federal, and Paradise on Bloor/Osteria Rialto, as well as the Toronto Restaurant Workers Relief Fund, from the comfort of home at Off Menu. The restaurant apparel co. produces the items for these small independents, sells them on their site, then donates 100 per cent of the profits to each business. No joke, no loopholes, it’s the real deal. You buy a sweet item, the restaurant benefits. Win-win.

Brunette is another one-stop shop for cool clothes from Montreal institutions such as St-Viateur Bagel and Joe Beef, as well as Toronto’s own Dreyfus and Sanagan’s Meat Locker.

See You Soon Toronto’s crewnecks, premium tees, hoodies and other threads might not be from any eateries, but money from your purchase is used to buy meals from Toronto restaurants at full price, which are then donated to frontline and essential workers across the city, so your purchases do benefit local eateries directly.

Many establishments have set up online stores on their own websites - Antler Kitchen + Bar, El Rey, Maderas Café, The Real Jerk, The Rex Hotel Jazz and Blues Bar, Saulter Street Brewery, White Lily Diner - while others prefer you message before dropping by to pick up your gear - hats and hoodies from The Heartbreak Chef, Rasta Pasta t-shirts, snapbacks from Square Boy, for instance.

Resto attire isn’t limited to just tops and caps, though you’re going to want to cram your closet full with these items, as many are available for a limited-time. Up your mask game with face coverings from Frank’s Pizza House, Horseshoe Tavern, and The Pilot. Fill out your wardrobe with stellar totes from Burdock Brewery, Contra Café, and Paris Paris, a coach jacket from Matty’s Patty’s Burger Club, Islas Filipino BBQ & Bar jogging pants, flip flops and fanny packs from Farside. There’s even motorcycle gear (Black Road Coffee Roasters) and dog collar (Indie Ale House).

And since we’re spending so much time indoors, it’s time to spruce up the joint with some new housewares. Shop covetable home goods such as glassware from Bandit Brewery and Birreria Volo, ceramic mugs from FIKA, travel tumblers from Propeller Coffee, insulated growlers from Junction Craft Brewery, camp mugs from Morning Parade Coffee Bar, drink koozies from Sneaky Dee’s, and wine opener from Union. There’s home décor too, by way of cool “essentials” like prayer candles from The Vatican Gift Shop and hand thrown catch all from Baddies.

Of course it goes without saying, all this swag makes sensational gifts for family, friends, and colleagues. Just keep in mind that many items are available in limited editions and often for a limited time, so act fast. (At Christmas, King’s Noodle put up some of their dinnerware for sale. It’s rare that a restaurant’s plateware is up for grabs, so I leapt at the chance to get a piece of Toronto history. Nine pieces, actually.)

This is just the beginning. Ask your neighbourhood spots what they’ve got in stock. Don’t do merch, they say? Maybe enough interest will spur a few limited runs to test the waters. Let’s turn the streets into runways featuring levelled up fits by our local hangs and favourite watering holes and support them through this crisis.

The fact that we look good while we’re at it? Yet another reason we love these people and places so damn much.

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Discover more ideas in Outstanding Gifts for Food Lovers.

Get caught up on the latest Toronto restaurant news and COVID updates. 

For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.

Open/Closed: Toronto Restaurant News March 4-10, 2021

Photo courtesy of La Cubana.

🕒 9 min read

With warmer weather on the approach and stay-at-home orders possibly lifting in Toronto and Peel, it feels like a bit of a reprieve. Well, for you maybe. Here at TR Headquarters, it’s as bonkers as ever with 20 arrivals.

And did you know I bring you openings and resto news across the site throughout the week, not just here in the Open/Closed? Did you miss my news about a celebrity chef’s new restaurant launching imminently in The Tip Off? (found exclusively in the newsletter delivered to your inbox Tuesdays) Better subscribe for this week’s issue (no spam or selling of your info ever). And there was another exclusive in this week’s At The Pass that probably passed you by…

It’s a LOT, I know. But it’s just the beginning. I’ve got a slew of places I’ve had to push back to next week already. I mean, I’ve got to leave my desk at some point.

No one does it bigger or better. See for yourself.

Here’s the very latest:

OPEN

I told you about the new owners of The Ace (231A Roncesvalles Ave.) back in January. Great news - Maggie and Rafael Stackpole opened their doors earlier tonight.

French classics are the name of the game at Jean-Pierre Centeno’s Bicyclette Food & Wine (290 Harbord St.). French Onion Soup ($13/1L), Croque Monsieur ($9), Salade Niçoise ($11), and Chicken Tourtière ($26) on spesh? Oomph.

The grand opening for The Biryani Walla in Mississauga (3021 Argentia Rd.) kicked off today at 11:30am.

St. Catharines import The Bull BBQ Pit moved into Boneyard Grill’s former digs (1216 St. Clair Ave. W.) with boldly named handhelds (Between the Sheets Burger, The Horny Chicken Sandwich, The Fidel Castro), and cholesterol busters like the Redonkadonk Sandwich with smoked brisket, pulled pork, bacon, grilled onions and fries piled high with ‘Bullslaw’ on a bun. 

Commo (242 King St. E.) offers Betty’s on King’s (240 King St. E.) full takeout menu - Betty’s Wings, the Betty's Burger, Pub Curry, and Deep Six Dip and Chips - in addition to frozen entrees, booze, and other goodies.

Halcyon (2196 Bloor St. W.) softly opened in Bloor West Village yesterday. The triple threat café is serving up Hot Black Coffee, a selection of vino, and ‘za from hidden pizzeria within, Bello Pizza.

Virtual kitchen Holy Pizza Oakville delivers 12-inch pies with anything but angelic names (Cheesus, Holy Moly, Fear of God, Texan Preacher) alongside those with more customary monikers (Thai Oh My, Almost Vegan, Pineapple Belongs on Pizza). 

Jollibee has been busy this last while. In fact, the location opening Saturday in North York at Centerpoint Mall (6464 Yonge St.), marks ninth in the province, third to open in 2021 (it’s only just March), with more on the way. Stay tuned.

Rachel went to Humber for pastry and worked in multiple bakeries over the last seven years before launching her home-based bakery Juniper Cakes & Desserts, at the beginning of the year. Shop special occasion cakes, cookies, and tarts available for pickup and delivery in North York (Toronto delivery is extra).

Kibo Sushi House has been sprouting up all over the GTA lately. The newest satellite just landed in North York at Keele and Lawrence (2300 Keele St.).

You’re going to need to clear some counter space for your haul from La Boulangerie (1134 Dundas St. W.) at Dundas and Ossington. I suggest Alsatian Sourdough, Chocolate-Filled Beignets, Sesame Baguettes, and Tourtiere, for starters.

La Cubana’s popup at Snakes and Lattes’ Midtown location (45 Eglinton Ave. E.) includes made-for-lockdown-life Date Night Combos ($45-$55) complete with food, drinks and a board game.  

There’s no bad time to open these days. Case in point: Naan & Chai launched their Mississauga outpost (10 Kingsbridge Garden Circle) on December 24 at 5pm.

Radar alert: Eugene Paik bakes cookies ($4 ea.) to order in unique flavours. Yuzu Chocolate Cookies? Peanut Butter Cookies with a hit of white miso, then filled with injeolmi (roasted soy powder) cream? Here. For. It. Paik's Bakes offers savoury items as well: Kalbi-j Jim Pot Pie ($10-$25) boasting Korean braised short ribs in a savory sweet sauce studded with carrots, potatoes, chestnuts, and dates, enveloped in a handmade puff pastry crust - available fresh or frozen. Menu items will change every few months and proceeds from sales with be donated to Rainbow Railroad, a Canadian charitable organization helping LGBTQIA folks escape persecution and violence. p.s. That’s his lovely dog Finley on the logo.

ISO freshly baked patties? Head to Patties Express new spot in Mississauga at The Food District Square One (100 City Centre Dr.). The third location debuted Tuesday.

Chefs Erich Mrak and Hunter Glaude are making sumptuous handmade pasta kits (Braised Duck Sun Ravioli Kit ftw), sourdough pizza kits (Pesto Potato, Fennel Sausage) house made cheeses, and other WFH essentials at their new food co. Saucy, currently based out of Beaches Brewery (1953 Queen St. E.).

The Simple Kitchen (137 Lakeshore Rd. E.) in Oakville helps balance out all those burgers and hot chicken sandos you’ve been smashing lately, with a does of healthier fare by way of avocado toast, chia bowls, smoothies, and the like.

Triple O’s been making headlines this week. The B.C. “premium quick service burger” chain with locations across British Columbia and Asia, announced earlier this week plans to launch 30 locations in Ontario over the next five years - six in the GTA in 2021-2022. The first debuted in Mississauga (1520 Courtneypark Dr. E.) on Tuesday, with another soon to follow in Vaughan.

Patties at Markham’s 6ix Burgers (6001 14th Ave.) are named after local thoroughfares -Yonge St., College St., Dundas St., Front St. – in similar fashion to North York’s recent arrival Yonge Burger.

Yaksha South East Asian Eatery (2109 1/2 Yonge St. ) might be a slip of a place, but this Midtown spot is one to watch.

CLOSED 

Chef Paul Kim’s Boonsik, that closely followed DOMA in December 2019, shuttered Friday.

EVENTS

Enjoy three-course menus from top Toronto restaurants during LocalLicious through to Sunday. One dollar from each meal with go to a local charity.

You’ve got until Saturday to get in on Taste of Oakville.

NEWS 

Tap Phong Trading’s founder, Dat Chuong Tran passed away. He was 100 years old.

There was a fire at the St. Lawrence Market earlier this week. No injuries were reported. 

Zach Kolomeir, chef/owner of Toronto’s Dreyfus and Taverne Bernhardt's, is featured in Today’s Special: 20 Leading Chefs Choose 100 Emerging Chefs by Phaidon, released yesterday.

Restaurants and bars in B.C. are finally permitted to buy alcohol at wholesale prices. It’s Ontario’s turn.

ICYMI 

Pompette’s chef/co-owner Martine Bauer has an exciting new project in the works. Find out more in this week’s compelling At The Pass.

Wednesday is the new Friday thanks to an exhilarating new concert series featuring local artists and top Toronto restaurants.  

Make Chef Michael Hunter’s Roast Duck with Maple Baked Beans and Grits this weekend. 

Ordering in this weekend? Do this first. 

Please support local businesses whenever possible.

____ 

Life moves fast. Catch up on previous editions of the Open/Closed.  

Things change quickly these days. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.  

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Need help to spread the word about your business without spending $$$? Get in touch. 

Reach foodies directly. Advertise in the next newsletter or Open/Closed. Space is limited.

At The Pass with Martine Bauer

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.  

🕒 5 min read

Currently

Chef/Co-Owner, Pompette and Bar Pompette opening soon

Formerly

Five-star hotel Constance Prince Maurice Hotel in Mauritius Island where I also did my hotel school courses, Michelin-starred restaurants Le Royal Monceau - Raffles Paris and La Cuisine Restaurant in Paris, Chef for the Prime Minister of France

Favourite dish to make right now

Boeuf Bourguignon, a dish that brings people together. Since the pandemic, I work less long hours and having dinner at home with my family is such a privilege.

Last cookbook purchase 

Naturalité by Alain Ducasse and Romain Meder

Have you read it/tried any recipe

Yes, I am in it right now, but I only take inspirations from big chefs. Each person interprets differently.  

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Strawberry, tomatoes, raspberry or whatever summer produce in winter time. If everybody could respect the seasons.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

I would like to see more local food around. We need to support local farmers. 

Biggest influences

I don’t really have influences but have always been inspired by people who works with respect for the products. 

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world 

Maison Bras in Aubrac, France. My dream.

Last thing you ate

Crèpe Suzette with the delicious marmalade from Tamarack Farms.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

My mother’s special chili paste from Mauritius Island where I was born and raised, cilantro, and ginger. 

Guilty pleasure

I tend to add Kewpi Mayo everywhere.

Selection of enticing fare from Pompette.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

The Restaurant at Pearl Morissette - Daniel Hadida and Eric Robertson are doing a great job of respecting our ecosystem and the land we inhabit.
Sakai Bar - Where I’ve learned about Japanese food and Stu (Stuart Sakai) is such a passionate guy who can talk about sake for hours.
Dreyfus - Zac (Zachary Kolomeir) is doing the best combination of French and Jewish cuisine in one and only place with a great wine list.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

Bar Piquette for the wine, Gift Shop for the cocktails and atmosphere, El Rey for the atmosphere.

Go-to drink  

Negroni for ever.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake 

Whenever I say to the team I’m heading out and leaving the kitchen, two hours later I’m still here. 

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs 

Remain calm in any situation. There is always a solution to problem.

Hidden talent

My mom taught me how to sew, and I am not bad at it.

Best career advice you ever received

To always keep my human sensitivity and generosity, from Christophe Langrée, the last chef with whom I worked in Paris.

Worst career advice you ever received

Many years ago when I was still apprentice, I asked for help to carry a 40 kilo chicken container, and the chef said, “You chose a man’s job, so work like one”.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

If you feel that’s what you want to do, don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. Never give up on your passion.  

———

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.    

For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter. 

Wednesday Night Special - Dinner and a show

🕒 3 min read

Remember the days of going out to see a live performance? Grabbing dinner and drinks beforehand? Dancing for hours on end?

An exhilarating new livestream concert series delivers those same vibes right to your living room. For free. Wednesday Night Special, hosted by DJ Me Time (Sarah Barrable Tishauer), showcases top DJs spinning everything from old school hip hop to deep house, alongside riveting performances by multi-faceted local artists.

Each week’s performances will be paired with fantastic takeout from select Toronto restaurants, available for purchase to enjoy during or pre/post show.  

Participating restaurants include:

- The Carbon Bar
- Drom Taberna
- Enoteca Sociale
- Fantastic Baby! Cafe
- Five Points Hot Chicken
- Kimchi Korea House
- La Palette
- La Palma
- Matty's Patty's Burger Club 
- The Opium Bar
- Osteria Rialto
- Saffron Spice Kitchen
- Smokeshow BBQ and Brew
- 416 Snack Bar

Uma Nota Culture Founding Artistic Director Alex Bordokas says, “We are taking a little corner of the internet to present some underground Toronto musicians and DJs, and team up with local restaurants to try and create some synergy. We want people to take in these artists, cast them on their TV, laptop or whatever, and dig into the music, dive into the style, the genre… that and enjoy tasty food. We have some prime DJ sets as well if you want to just groove post-meal.” He calls the series, “an exercise in keeping the faith in difficult times and sparking recovery to what will hopefully be a new and bright future of renewed and joyous human interaction.”

The four-part event, presented and produced by Toronto non-profit arts presenter Uma Nota Culture, with support from the Department of Canadian Heritage and the City of Toronto’s Winter Activation program, can be streamed through umanota.ca and mixtofestival.com. Check out the exciting lineup:

Wednesday March 10
Recorded at BSMT 254 
Lola Bunz and DJ Elle, Toronto hip-hop rising star
DJ Grouch -  Old school hip hop

Wednesday March 17
Recorded at BSMT 254 
Dub Chronicles – Classic and original dubwise roots reggae  
DJ Sabbath - Rare reggae vinyl selector with guest emcee Steppa 

Wednesday March 24 
Special presentation recorded at The Paradise Theatre
Ahmed Moneka - Iraqi singer, composer, and percussionist
DJ Win - Mix of deep world, downtempo electronica, and deep house

Wednesday March 31
Recorded at BSMT 254 
Maria and the Band - Brazilian folk music
DJ Juana Go-go - Latin and Brazilian rare groove vinyl

So mark your calendar and dance the night away while supporting local artists and restaurants.

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