Stephanie Dickison's Blog, page 26

At The Pass with Marchelle McKenzie

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. Introducing Marchelle McKenzie.

🕒 4.5 min read

Currently

Owner and Head Pastry Chef, Butter and Spice Bakeshop

Formerly 

NYC: Eleven Madison Park, Betony. BC: Fairmont Château Lake Louise. UK: Restaurant Story. Toronto: The Rolling Pin, Bonnie Gordon College.

Favourite dish to make right now

Right now I am really digging poké bowls. I am a sucker for fresh veggies and fish.

Last cookbook purchase

Tartine Bread by Chad Robertson

Have you read it/tried any recipes

I have read it thoroughly, I just haven’t had a moment to try any of his recipes. This is on my agenda for January 2022 during my slow season.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

PARSLEY!!! It is incredibly overused as a garnish.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

I am really into bowls right now. I love that so many restaurants are doing it their way. It is a one-stop shop for all your food groups!

The Cornflake. Delicious fudgy dark chocolate brownie topped with a crunchy malted caramel cornflake topping. 

Biggest influences

Bonnie Gordon, my parents, past pastry chefs like Angelia Pinkerton (EMP) and Rebecca Isbell (Betony).

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

How can I pick just one? Here are a few that I have my eye on currently: Noma, Restaurant Pearl Morissette, and Mildred’s Temple Kitchen.

Last thing you ate

I had a burrito bowl for lunch with extra queso and guacamole.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Brie, Huy Fong Chili Garlic Sauce, Kimichi.

Guilty pleasure

Pickled jalapeños on anything.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Mama Lee’s Korean Kitchen, Imanishi Japanese Kitchen, Maker Pizza

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

Escape Goat, Cocktail Bar, Mahjong Bar

Go-to drink

Usually I go for full-bodied red wine or a cider.

The OG. Delicious fudgy dark chocolate brownie topped with even more dark chocolate.

One  habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

I always have to cook with all the cabinet doors open. It drives my mother crazy.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

I am incredibly organized and systematic in a professional kitchen.

Hidden talent

Outside of the kitchen - it would be my ability to wake up without an alarm and be instantly ready to tackle the day. Inside the kitchen - My ability to motivate teammates even in the worst of situations.

Best career advice you ever received

Keep your head down and focus. A chef I worked with years ago told me this. I have kept it with me ever since.

Worst career advice you ever received

You should really consider studying something outside of pastry.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

Be eager to learn and easy to teach.

 In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.      

For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.  

OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News November 4-10, 2021

Photo courtesy of 156 Cumberland.

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings – virtual, brick-and-mortar, pop-ups, allll the things - and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

🕒 12 min read

Historically, November is a sleepy month when it comes to new haunts. Things started to rev up a few years back, but the pandemic’s set the whole landscape into overdrive. Case in point: This week’s unexpected 26 arrivals. At least it’s a lively assortment, giving you lots of options whether you’re ordering in or dining out.

Here’s the very latest:

OPEN

Next stop, Bathurst. In August, I reported on the temporary closure for renovations at Bakery On The Go in Bathurst Station (819 Bathurst St.) The longstanding bakery - and one of the popular patty destinations along Line 2 - has reopened.

Bossanova Wine & Beer (103 Roncesvalles Ave.) debuted Saturday.  Named after the third studio album by the Pixies, Ben Plisky-Somers and Dan Grant’s new shop offers a selection wine, beer, RTD gin cocktails, and non-alcoholic kombucha in the heart of in Roncesvalles Village. Fun fact #1: Their house beer, Surfer Rosé, is also named after one of the alt-rock band’s albums. Fun fact #2: If you get the TR Newsletter, you’ll have read that while tipping is customary in most North American restaurants, a few Toronto eateries recently eliminated the practice altogether - including Bossanova.

Fried chicken and waffle joint Cluck Clucks added a Scarborough outpost on August 5th (41 Lebovic Ave., Unit A-112).

A new hub in Midtown (2352 Yonge St.) a few doors north of Yonge Eglinton Centre, features CoCo Fresh Tea & Juice, Ono Poké Bar (following the opening of their fifth branch in the GTA in September) and Sen-Ryo Sushi under one roof.

New Pie Co. dropped a pin in Liberty Village a few weeks back. Thanks to telecommunications co. Beanfield Metroconnect, doors softly opened yesterday on a storefront residency at Stackt Market (28 Bathurst St.), with grand opening celebrations to follow this weekend. Get to know owner/baker Shiela Labao in At The Pass.

Daol Korean Restaurant (1345 Queen St. W.) at Queen & Dunn in Parkdale offers a host cold-weather warmups including ramyun and u-dong, bento boxes, and mains (Kimchi-Jjigae, Bulgogi Dolsot Bibimbop, Don Katsu, Kimchi Fried Rice), with an assortment of soju, beer and non-alcoholic beverages. 

Fern Colavecchia and Tony Visca’s popular flagship DoughBox Wood Fired Pizza & Pasta in Hamilton has branched out. Grand opening festivities for their spot in Mississauga’s Heartland Town Centre (5595 Latimer Dr.) took place today.

Socialite in Kensington Market (276 Augusta Ave.) is now Estus, complete with cocktails, craft brews, comfort food, and console video games.

Bathurst Local’s (322 Bathurst St.) second floor destination Goodness Sake does cheap sake alongside cheese, grilled cheese, and hot dogs. Soooo, everything you need in your life right now. See. You. There.

Grill Gate, known for the burgers and Philly cheesesteaks, unveiled a location near Broadview and Danforth (341 Danforth Ave.) last night and their new café concept Gate Café in Richmond Hill (10185 Yonge St., Unit 2) late last week.

Handi Indian Cuisine (2068 Kipling Ave.) premiered in Etobicoke on June 23. In addition to Kolkata style handi specials, find tandoor specialities and a host of vegetarian, meat, and poultry options.

Looking to add more plant-based options in your life? Head to Hunny (1056 Bloor St. W.), the new vegan bar and resto by The Hogtown Vegan launching today in Bloorcourt (1056 Bloor St. W.).

A few months ago I let you in on Leslieville Meat Market (1160 Queen St. E.) taking over Meating on Queen. Grand opening kicks off tomorrow at 8am. What to expect: Beside meat of course, there are baked goods, homemade fare, and a “wide selection of Latin American products.”

Nestled in a -like minimalist space in Cabbagetown, NomNomNom Café (492 Parliament St.) is filled with modern art installations, music, coffee, tea, and pastries. Also notable: S’mores macarons and French bulldog logo.

Oniguy at the corner of Dundas and Bathurst (755 Dundas St. W.) focuses on homemade onigiri (Japanese rice balls): Ginger Scallion Beef, Soy Braised Pork, White Miso Salmon, and vegan Wakame Tofu - paired with made in-house strawberry milk.

PizzaForno continues to install 24/7 automated pizza machines across the continent. Find the latest at CIBC Square (81 Bay St.) in the vicinity of Scotiabank Arena (40 Bay St.).

Alison Barrie, owner of Parkdale's cozy watering hole The Grand Trunk (1718 Queen St. W.) debuted The Queen's End Cafe & Emporium (1664 Queen St. W.) Tuesday. On the menu: A delicious array of goodies such as savoury muffins, Breakfast sandos, daily soup, salads, and vegan sammies.  PSA: Queen and Roncesvalles has been under construction and closed off to traffic for months, so show the businesses in that end of the town some serious love whenever possible, including the aforementioned, Atlantis Coffee Co, Burrito Boyz, Easy Restaurant, Gyro Bar! Souvlaki Kitchen, Islas Filipino BBQ & Bar, Mama Rosa Restaurant & Bar, Paddler Thai Boat Noodles, Sake Sushi, South Indian Dosa Mahal, T Dot Jerk, and Tonight.

If you’d rather skip the in-person interaction and order your java in a few screen taps, RC Coffee Robo Café is for you. Adding to the popular Yorkville (1235 Bay St.) and Kensington (160 Baldwin St.) locations are outposts in the St. Lawrence Market ‘hood (36 Church St.) and Little Italy (550 College St.).

Ottawa’s The Scottish and Irish Store has popped up in the 6ix just in time for the holidays. Head to Queen between Spadina and Augusta (501 Queen St. W.) to stock up on textiles, sweaters, and wide range of goodies including Jaffa Cakes, Terry’s Chocolate Orange, vegan options from Moo Free and Goupie, crisps, cheese, clotted cream, chilled and frozen pies, and much more.

ISO an exclusive experience? S’cream Speakeasy by S’cream Ice Cream (126 Cumberland St.) is a password protected affair.

I gave you the head’s up about reservations for Selva (221 Richmond St. W.) a few weeks back. The “world’s first immersive, multi-sensory art/resto/bar experience” opens tonight.

Psst. 156 Cumberland (156 Cumberland Ave.) has moved into Chabrol’s recent spot with contemporary French fare “inspired by Korean flavours,” run by a husband (chef) and wife (team). The new eatery is backed by Bo Seo, CEO of Kibo Sushi House (the chain’s omakase restaurant, Kibo Secret Garden which debuted last fall, is next door), who left a 5-star review on Google.

CLOSED

Chef Alex Baracat launched his first restaurant Brazil Box (390 Queens Quay W., Unit 106) this summer with a stellar lineup of Brazilian street food and desserts - coxinha, pastel, tapioca crepes, stroganoff, brigadeiros. Unfortunately, doors shuttered last week.

It’s rare, but sometimes a place is set to open, and for a variety of reasons, another establishment moves in. Such is the case for CG Island, which was to take over Rikkochez’s former stomping grounds (341 Danforth Ave.) with the “best burger in town.” To find out what replaced it, see above.

Gayley’s Café (1424 Dundas St. W.) closed on Halloween. A message  posted on the website reads “As of November 1st, 2021 Gayley's Cafe is permanently closed. Nothing bad happened to us. We survived COVID. It's just time, after 30 years of service to the neighbourhood. Thank you for sharing your beautiful lives with us, for being kind in difficult times, and for being appreciative in good times. All the best.”

After 12 years, OMG Baked Goodness called it quits on their Little Portugal location (1561 Dundas St. W.). Stay tuned for what’s next.

Puff Pastes main shop (1672 St. Clair Ave. W.) permanently closed Friday. 

EVENTS

Food Truck’n Friday is happening in Islington Village (1 Resurrection Rd. - west of Islington subway station) tomorrow 4:30pm-8:30pm.

Street Eats Market x Scarborough Town Centre returns this weekend with a Poutine Festival.

Terroir Hospitality Symposium kicks off virtual programming Monday.

Tickets are on sale now for The Distillery Winter Village launching November 18. 

While the CNE isn’t returning until 2022, you can purchase general admission tickets now.

NEWS

“Right now, the industry is in a panic mode.” In an interview with CBC News, Tony Elenis, President & CEO of Ontario Restaurant Hotel & Motel Association (ORHMA), shared many ways how the minimum wage increase in Ontario will affect the hospitality industry. “Menu pricing in a restaurant is very rigid, and it’s not like any other business,” he said. “It’s very competitive. You push up 20 cents on a cup of coffee or a sandwich and you lose customers.”

The entire chain of Fresh Restaurants – est. 1999 and one of the first vegan restaurants in Toronto - has been acquired by Recipe Unlimited Corporation, the company behind 25 brands and 1,327 restaurants including East Side Mario’s, Harvey’s, Kesleys, The Pickle Barrel and Swiss Chalet.

Toronto’s own Dan Levy, co-creator of Schitt$ Creek with Dad Eugene Levy, came up with a TV competition series about brunch, set to launch on HBO Max next year.

Duh. Booze and weed sales skyrocketed during the pandemic.

ICYMI

Chef Manek Singh of Parkdale’s Le Phénix has one helluva impressive résumé, strong opinions about certain ingredients, more than one guilty pleasure and hidden talent, and inspiring words for chefs and home cooks alike. Discover all this and more in this week’s At The Pass.

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.     

Please support local businesses whenever possible.

To all those celebrating, Happy Diwali.

Stay tuned . More news ahead in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the TR newsletter. 

Life moves fast - I wrote about +100 new arrivals in October alone. Catch up on previous editions of the OPEN/CLOSED. 

Things change quickly. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.   

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Get in touch.

Need staff. help promoting your menu/bottle shop/patio, but you’re on a budget? We can help. *Prices have been reduced to help local businesses during this time. Limited space available.

[image error]

Reach new customers without breaking the bank. Start now.

OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News October 28-November 3, 2021

Photo courtesy of Sambal.

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings – virtual, brick-and-mortar, pop-ups, allll the things - and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

 🕒 11 min read

What a week. First, indoor dining is baaaaack in full effect. Now events. And this weekend’s all about candy and costumes. Pretty, pretty, good. It gets better. I’ve got 23 new destinations for you to discover.

Here’s the very latest:

OPEN

Balzac’s Outpost (197 Bartley Dr.) is not like the others – in terms of location and appearance anyway. While coffee and pastries remain true to the brand, the Canadian chain’s first venture in North York is housed in their warehouse, giving it an exclusive, industrial feel.

The Belly Buster Submarines isn’t about mass expansion. Established in 1974 in Lawrence Park (3447 Yonge St.), the second location at King and Spadina (389 King St. W.) followed nearly 40 years later in 2013. The first east side venue debuted yesterday morning. Hot tip: Known for their signature subs - Turkey Bacon, Super Stack (dbl meat: salami, ham, turkey, choice of toppings), Cheese Steak, Meatball – the namesake featuring salami and roast beef topped with mushrooms and gravy, is a must.

Kerin Chanel’s first brick-and-mortar Black Owned Toronto launched at Scarborough Town Centre just three months ago. The excitement continues: The grand opening of the CF Toronto Eaton Centre store (220 Yonge St.) kicks off Saturday at 11am with giveaways, DJs and much more. 

There are a slew of burger joints across the city, but Brazilian Burger Bar (28 Logan Ave.) in the east end differentiates itself with “burgers with a Brazilian twist,” pastels, and traditional Brazilian desserts (flan, brigadeiros, dulce de leche cheesecake). Of particular note, the Big Brazil Burger (X-Tudo Hambúrguer) boasting ten ingredients: Double homemade patty, American cheese, fried egg, bacon, all beef hot dog, potato sticks, tomato, lettuce and herbed mayo, tucked into a toasted brioche bun. Otherwise known as breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Dickens Café started out in Scarborough in the ‘90s, but recently made the move to Markham with new items and a new name to boot. Dickens Restaurant (10 Apple Creek Blvd., Unit B3) offers a wide array of options catering to all ages and palates, from HK style dishes and signature specialty German Pork Hock to a kid’s menu and afternoon.

Established in 1948 and closed since 2014, the legendary El Mocambo (464 Spadina Ave,)officially reopens Saturday in newly renovated, tricked out digs (the state of the art video, audio, lighting, and production capabilities are just the beginning) with Toronto’s own Our Lady Peace. The iconic venue is also brining Hugh’s Room and Hugh’s Room Live to their new stage through with monthly events.

Looking for a new backdrop for your takeout? Sustainable tableware from Fable Home’s new shop steps from Trinity Bellwood Park (878 Queen St. W.) oughta do it.

Toronto roastery Hale Coffee arrived at Yonge & Eg in June, and continues to add to it roster. A branch softly opened at Bloor and Church (175 Bloor St. E.) on Monday, complete with selfie-ready peacock mural.

Hey Noodles was all set to launch in the Annex last month, when construction delays got in the way. The location at Bloor and Bathurst (526 Bloor St. W.) debuted earlier this week.

Moving can be such a pain, but luckily Hot Black Coffee didn’t have far to go. Find their midtown pop-up in its permanent slip of a space at Yonge and  Davisville (1921 Yonge St.), just blocks from their old stomping grounds (1998 Yonge St.).

The Joy of Pho landed at Upper Yonge Plaza (10909 Yonge St., Unit 16)in Richmond Hill in August. Amongst with the usual array of Vietnamese fare - noodle soups, broken rice, banh mi - discover delicacies such as Malaysian style Curry Crab and French style BBQ Lamb. 

Kibo Sushi House has been unstoppable these last two years. Keeping up the momentum, they launched three locations across the GTA earlier this week: Oakville (221 Lakeshore Rd. E.), Etobicoke (4925 Dundas St. W.) and Richmond Hill (9425 Leslie St.), with more on the way.

There’s a new watering hole on the Danforth near Jones. Introducing Lot 774 (774 Danforth Ave.).

Doors opened Tuesday for Bloorcourt’s Mumbaikar Indian Restaurant And Bar (1063 Bloor St. W.). Tuck into specialities such as Anda Todfod, Makhani Mac & Cheese, Jackfruit Masala, Zaffrani Chicken Tikka, and Matunga Fish Curry. 

Japanese bento (Butaman, Curry, Tonjiru), curry, soup, snacks and Osaka-style steamed pork buns are the name of the game at MUSU Osaka Buns’ new ghost kitchen in Etobicoke (20 Lockport Ave.).

Naveen Chakravarti spent the pandemic launching new eateries: Station Social House in May 2020, Prohibition Pie in Parkdale in March ’21, followed by a buzzy pop-up in Rosedale (14 Dupont St., former home of Playa Cabana Hacienda) this past summer. After taking over Oddseoul (90 Ossington Ave.) and reopening last month, he launches Neon Tiger (14 Dupont St.) tonight. Mover and shaker, indeed.

New Yorker Burger & Souvlaki House at Broadview and Danforth (753 Broadview Ave.) has taken over Big Munch Grill’s expansive space that featured 16 virtual concepts and replaced popular neighbourhood haunt New York Café this summer . The new biz (by the same company behind BMG) offers similar fare – souvlaki, gyros, smash burgers, Philly cheesesteaks, and nachos - six nights a week until 3am (closed Mondays).

Bubble tea café Now Tea set down roots in Waterloo a year ago, but the brand recently set up shop – make that shops – in Markham: Liberty Square Plaza  (3601 Hwy 7, Unit 112) and Commerce Gate - (505 Hwy 7, Unit 61-63).

Last week, Chef Victor Barry (PIANO PIANO, PICCOLO PIANO Pizzeria) launched Victory Food at Kitchen Hub’s Cabbagetown location  (234 Parliament). PIANO PIANO joined in on the fun today.

Sambal’s at The District Kitchen at Square One (100 City Centre Dr.) starting Monday. The month-long pop-up store features Indonesian fare such as Chicken Satay ($13), Famous Beef Rendang ($17), Nasi Goreng Kampoeng ($14), and Gado-Gado ($12).

CLOSED 

It was a short run for Big Munch Grill (753 Broadview Ave.). Details above.

Tapas style bar Kingyo Izakaya in Cabbagetown (51 Winchester St.) is changing things up after Halloween. Owner/chef Koji will be in the kitchen starting tonight for their Arigato event. The restaurant will close after service on Sunday for renos, expected to last a few months. Stay tuned.

Legends Sports Lounge (774 Danforth Ave.) has already been replaced. See above. 

A popular sushi chain has taken over where Korean eatery Restaurant Beijing (4925 Dundas St. W.) stood.

Thindi’s run at World Food Market (335 Yonge St.) ended yesterday. Operations are moving to the cafe location on College (400 College St.).

EVENTS

KITKAT Chocolatory’s Made 4 U Creator Studio is on at the at Yorkdale (3401 Dufferin St., Unit 615) until November 13. 

Don’t miss this weekend’s Trick or Treat Food Truck Fest at Variety Village. There’s live music, beer garden, monster jeeps, costume contest, arts & crafts, a contest for pets, and much more. 

Buy your tickets now for Street Eats to help raise money for people experiencing poverty and homelessness and support local businesses who have been impacted throughout the pandemic.

NEWS

Capacity limits were lifted for inside bars and restaurants on Monday, and earlier today it was announced limits were also lifted for outdoor events.

The Anita Stewart Memorial Food Laboratory in memory of Anita Stewart, founder of Food Day Canada, launched at the University of Guelph.

Toronto Raptor Yuta Watanabe visited Ramen Isshin’s College outpost.
ICYMI

The province finally lifted capacity limits for bars and restaurants. Discover what that means for both industry and patrons now.

Newsletter subscribers got the full scoop on the Toronto location of  Estiatorio Milos. They also got dibs on a pop-up helmed by an outstanding chef and club you should def be a part of. Don’t miss out. Get in on The Tip Off found exclusively in the TR Newsletter > subscribe now. Note: Your personal details will never be sold or shared.

Please support local businesses whenever possible.

Life moves fast - I wrote about +100 new arrivals in September alone. Catch up on previous editions of the OPEN/CLOSED.   

Things change quickly. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.   

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Get in touch.

Need help promoting your menus, private event space or products, but you’re on a budget? We can help. *Prices have been reduced to help local businesses during this time. Limited space available.

[image error]

At The Pass with Manek Singh

Chef Manek Singh, Le Phénix. Photo by Jessica Blaine Smith.

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. Introducing Manek Singh.

🕒 5.5. min read 

Currently

Chef de Partie, Le Phénix

Formerly

Started in the industry working for the Taj Hotels group back in India for a year, Moved to Cape Town to work for a restaurant called The Yard as part of the opening team for a year, then moved back to India worked as a Lead Chef at Flavour Diaries for chef Anjali Pathak. Staged at a brilliant Italian restaurant called Ristorante Sotto l'Arco in Bologna Italy under chef Alessandro Panichi, and finally landed in Le Phénix.

Favourite dish to make right now

Risotto. It’s rice, butter and cheese - what can go wrong?

Last cookbook purchase

Dominique Ansel: Secret Recipes from the World Famous New York Bakery by Dominique Ansel

Have you read it/tried any recipes

I’m halfway through it actually. It is detailed. I tried to follow his recipe for meringue and it was bang on after a few trials and errors.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Aubergines (aka Eggplants). I can’t do them - feels like I am biting into a sponge full of bitter water.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

Mussels. I am not a seafood kind of person, but mussels are the one thing I love.

Biggest influences

My parents and close friends. They push me to be better every day and have supported me in following my passion for food and to be a chef.

Coffee Cured Rack of Lamb with Parsnip Purée, coffee and red wine glaze and maple glazed carrots. The Yard, Cape Town.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

El Celler de Can Roca in Spain.

Last thing you ate

Moto Bun at Hanmoto - Hamamoto Japanese chicken curry, scotch bonnet slaw, pickled chillis, scallions, on a coco bun. 

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Garlic, butter and tomatoes.

Guilty pleasure

Butter Chicken -  too cliché, I know, and an occasional Mr. Brown Coffee mid-service.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Viaggio, Hanmoto, North of Brooklyn

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

Bellwoods Brewery, Bandit Brewery, Collective Arts Brewery

Prepping for service. Photo by Jessica Blaine Smith.

Go-to drink  

Any wheat beer and iced Americano.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Need to be more on point when it comes to downsizing produce. That is the one thing I need to pay more attention to. 

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs 

Keep your work station clean. It makes life easy both during prep and service. And having a stack of folded kitchen towels goes a long way.

Hidden talent

I am a photographer and I make killer coffee.

Best career advice you ever received

Follow your heart, keep cooking, and don’t be afraid to fail as that will lead to be the reason for your success. - from an old chef of mine chef Tushar back in India when I started out in the industry.

Worst career advice you ever received 

Never received any bad career advice. I listen to everything people in the industry tell me and then find my own rhythm and place in it all.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business:

If love food and cooking, just do it. Don’t be afraid, just cook your heart out and the more you do, the more you will refine your style and craft and be able to define yourself. Don’t try to be someone else. Be you. And never stop learning. You learn something new every day. That is the best part of being a cook – every day is exciting and new.

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.     

For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.  

Ontario finally lifts capacity limits for bars and restaurants - What that means for the industry and public at large

October 25, 2021 marks the first day in over 19 months dining inside a restaurant without physical distancing is permitted.

🕒 8 min read

Bars, restaurants, and other food and drink establishments across the province are transforming their spaces for the umpteenth time since the outset of the pandemic in March 2020, when restaurants were ordered to shut down indoor dining, permitted to remain open for only takeout and/or delivery.

As of Monday, October 25, 2021 at 12:01am, these businesses are permitted to open at full capacity indoors without previously required physical distancing for the first time in over 19 months. Large venues such as concert arenas, movie theatres, and racetracks were allowed to ditch enforced limits and operate at full capacity on October 8, 2021.

Patios reopened as part of Step 1 of the Roadmap to Reopen on June 11, followed by indoor dining with reduced capacity (no limits on number of patrons per table, however physical distancing and other restrictions were still in effect) introduced just three months ago n July 16, in accordance with Step 3.

Planning ahead

The first “milestone” in A Plan to Safely Reopen Ontario and Manage COVID-19 for the Long-Term, released by the Ontario government, in consultation with the Chief Medical Officer of Health on October 22, 2021, lifts capacity limits in most settings where proof of vaccination are required including restaurants, bars, and other food and drink establishments, and venues including gyms, casinos, event spaces, and certain outdoor settings.

The plan outlines the schedule of province’s “gradual approach to lifting remaining public health and workplace safety measures by March 2022,” including mask regulations.

Infographic of the plan outlined by the province illustrates abbreviated information with respect to food and drink businesses. For complete details, see A Plan to Safely Reopen Ontario and Manage COVID-19 for the Long-Term.

The plan also includes a statement by Dr. Kieran Moore, Chief Medical Officer of Health: “We are now in a position where we can see the proposed plan for lifting the remaining public health and workplace safety measures in Ontario. The months ahead will require continued vigilance, as we don’t want to cause anymore unnecessary disruption to people’s everyday lives. We must continue to prevent the transmission of COVID-19 in our communities by following the public health measures in place and by vaccinating those who have not yet received their shots. Ontario has the infrastructure in place to manage outbreaks, including a high-volume capacity for testing, and people to perform fast and effective case and contact management when needed.”

Proof of vaccination

Ontarians have been required to be fully vaccinated with proof of vaccination and government issued ID to dine indoors since September 22, 2021. According to the provincial government’s current schedule, the vaccination certificate program could end as soon as mid-January.

Due to vaccination requirements, some businesses have chosen not to offer indoor dining, such as The Goods and the St. Lawrence Market in Toronto, while others are not currently accepting medical exemptions including Bistro on Avenue and Farside. Though not currently mandated by the province, some establishments - Godspeed Brewery, Osteria Rialto - require proof of vaccination for patio seating.

Individuals can now download enhanced COVID-19 vaccine certificates.

Verify Ontario, the vaccine verification app for businesses, launched October 14 on Apple and Google. As of October 18, individuals can download enhanced COVID-19 vaccine certificates with scannable QR codes.

Restaurants Canada, a national not-for-profit association representing Canada's foodservice industry, is asking the provincial government to provide “additional support for the hard-hit foodservice industry in light of the additional costs and revenue losses that restaurants have incurred from implementing the vaccine passport system.” In a recent survey conducted by the hospitality organization, 60 percent of restaurant operators reported a drop in revenue as a direct result of proof of vaccination requirements. “When combined with the higher staffing levels needed and other costs incurred from having to enforce the new rules,” the statement reads, “restaurants need additional support to continue providing jobs and growing the Ontario economy.”

The long road to recovery

Throughout the global crisis, restaurants, bars, and other food and drink establishments had to transform their spaces into fully operational takeout and delivery operations. Now they must operate all facets – takeout, delivery, patio if applicable, and indoor dining - while implementing strict COVID-19 health and safety protocols.

While the reintroduction of indoor dining is certainly good news for the industry, the road to recovery is long. With the recent end of government wage and rent subsidies, organizations such as Canadian Federation of Independent Business (CFIB) reiterate the hardships facing the community. “COVID-19 is still hitting the small business community hard. Despite the economy reopening, many businesses are continuing to struggle – or shutter – without better relief from the federal government.”  the organization launched a petition asking the government for more support reporting 58 per cent of business owners having sales “well below normal levels.” and only 78 per cent of businesses “fully open.”

The hospitality industry has been dealt severe blows throughout the pandemic. In addition to reconfiguring their indoor spaces  countless times throughout the pandemic – blocking off dining areas, setting up and implementing systems and making room for takeout and delivery, installing plexiglass and other dividers, setting up procedures for disinfecting and contact tracing, building patios and furnishing them, numerous establishments have turned their dining room into a full production line - now they must reimagine spaces once again to welcome guests indoors. According to the schedule laid out by the province, that could mean vaccinated and unvaccinated guests dining side-by-side in as little as under three months from now.

Although increased capacity is a step forward for the industry, it doesn’t ensure “business as usual.” Hurdles continue with staffing shortages, local and global supply chain issues, inflation, and the recent end to federal wage and rent subsidies. The Ontario Restaurant Hotel & Motel Association (ORHMA), which has been rallying on behalf of Canada’s hardest hit businesses throughout the pandemic, has asked the government to launch “a new, tailored wage and fixed cost support program be established at the earliest opportunity” to ensure they survive these upcoming colder months.

Cooler weather signifies the end of patio season. which according to CaféTO is November 10, 2021,. And while there is a possibility of the CaféTO patio program becoming permanent (New York confirmed a year-round program last year), it won’t be anytime soon - the City of Toronto report recommends the return of temporary curb lane cafés “next year, with installation starting as early as May 2022 and under similar guidelines and requirements from 2021, it also includes a recommendation to develop criteria for the permanent, seasonal use of curb lane cafés by 2023,” as part of a “phased approach toward a permanent and streamlined CaféTO program.”

A step forward

As establishments continues to face a multitude of obstacles, lifting capacity limits for indoor dining as patio season comes to a close is a much needed boost and step forward in the industry’s recovery.

Further ways you can help: Pick up groceries, pantry items, prepared foods, meal kits, and libations at neighbourhood bars, restaurants, cafes, and bottle shops. Ordering in? Visit the establishment’s website to place your order. Better yet, pick up the phone. 

Get caught up on the latest Toronto restaurant news and COVID updates .

For breaking news, interviews and much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.  

OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News October 21-27, 2021

[image error]

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings – virtual, brick-and-mortar, pop-ups, allll the things - and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

 🕒 10 min read

This week, I uncovered 22 arrivals featuring a real mishmash of eateries - both in types of food offered as well as format. Which pairs perfectly with the weather right now: tank top and sandals one minute, jacket and toque the next.

And stay tuned - more news, exciting new features, etc., are on the way. In the meantime, here’s the very latest.

OPEN

Riverside’s newest arrival, restaurant and cocktail lounge Aura (686 Queen St. E.) at Queen and Broadview, boasts a heated patio - ideal for cooler days like these.  

Brasa Peruvian Kitchen debuted at Dupont and Landsdowne this summer.  While the outpost at First Canadian Place isn’t quite ready to launch, the chain’s signature bowls and salads have landed east side at Kitchen Hub’s Cabbagetown location (234 Parliament St.).

East York is overflowing with culinary gems, and Elmer’s Fine Food (1027 Pape Ave.) at Pape and Cosburn is no exception. On the menu: Filipino comfort fare for days. Think Pancit Bihon, Nilaganga Baka, Crispy Pata, Kare Kare, Chicken Afritada, Binagoongan, Dinakdakan and Bopis – a spicy delicacy made with minced pig’s lung and heart. Pro tip: Leave room for dessert - Lechen Flan, Cassava Cake, Royal Bibingka, Tuon and Halo Halo.

Extra Burger’s focused menu (burgers, fried chicken sando, fries) has been a sensation since inception. No doubt success will follow at their new home in Oakwood (319 Oakwood Ave.).

TR Newsletter subscribers were the first to know: Farzi Café debuts in Canada tomorrow. The chain's "unique, modernist approach to Indian food" - aka molecular gastronomy - and mention in the Michelin Guide have been making headlines of late, so you might expect the eatery to land in a buzzy neighbourhood downtown or chic, out-of-the-way spot. In fact, it's opening in a mall: Mississauga’s Square One (100 City Centre Dr.).

Flourish and Bask (245 Lakeshore Rd. E., Unit 2) in Oakville celebrates the art of entertaining with all the components for happy hour - sans alcohol - in addition to an assortment of housewares and décor. Grand opening celebrations took place Saturday. 

Psst. The follks behind AMPM have created another entrancing Parkdale destination: Fun Time (1566 Queen St. W., back entrance), complete with Southeast Asian street food.

Good Luck Café (5533 Yonge St.) softly opened at Yonge & Finch last week. While their food menu includes enticing HK cafe selections, your attention will likely sway toward drinks bobbing with three-dimensional Ted-esque shaped infused ice, until it eerily liquefies.

Hazukido’s third location in the GTA touched down in Markham at Markville Mall (5000 Hwy 7).

The frenzy of hotel openings downtown continues with King Blue Hotel at the corner of King Street West and Blue Jays Way (355 King St. W.) in the heart of Entertainment District. Bonus features: pet-friendly rooms, rooftop terrace and deluxe indoor swimming pool. *Hands up if you remember when the location was home to Indian Motorcycle Café & Lounge.

Le Dolci bakery has been a part of Trinity Bellwoods since 2012. Should you live outside the vicinity, a selection of their award-winning cakes, cupcakes and brownie trays are now available through Kitchen Hub’s Etobicoke (935 The Queensway) and Cabbagetown (234 Parliament) locations.

I’ve been chronicling all the eateries at 858 Eglinton Ave. E. in East York since early summer: First Conspiracy Pizza, quickly followed by ice cream joint Churnt Up, and Phamily Eats in July. The evolution continues with the addition of late night confectionery, Midnight Cookie. Doors open tomorrow.

Milky’s (760 Dundas St. W.) dreamy spot at Dundas and Bathurst just got a sweet sibling: Visit Milky’s Cloud Room in Stackt Market’s Marketplace (28 Bathurst St., Unit 1-107).

Readers of last week’s OPEN/CLOSED were the first in on resos opening for the wildly-anticipated MIMI Chinese (265 Davenport Rd.). For those just catching up, the restaurant opens today, though there’s likely to be quite a wait. To help pass the time, discover more about this exciting venture from the talented folks behind Sunny’s Chinese.

Coffee and office supplies/stationery go hand-in-hand, so how apropos to find the sixth Mos Mos Coffee nestled in Staples’ chic new shop at Richmond and Parliament  (517 Richmond St. E.).

Pearl Chinese Cuisine debuted at the water’s edge Harbourfront (207 Queen's Quay W., Unit 200) years back, followed by a coveted spot in Bayview Village (2901 Bayview Ave.) in 2011. The third installation is undoubtedly the most stunning. Take a peek inside the new digs, spanning approx. 7,000 square feet at Oakville Place (240 Leighland Ave., near Entrance 1).

Taking over Mulberry Bar’s stomping grounds at Bloor and Shaw (828 Bloor St. W.) - Praise Bottle Shop by Will Predhomme and Scott Zabarth, the folks behind Gargoyle Wine Club. In addition to purchasing bottles, guests can tuck into wine on-site, alongside bites curated by esteeemed chef Doug Penfold (Cava, Chabrol, Tanto).

The last time I wrote about Sang-Ji Fried Bao was 2018. Welcome back, old friend, this time (5461 Yonge St.) with a new menu. 

Sari Not Sari (1566 Queen St. W.) delivers on DJs, drinks, and vibes, but eats by the one and only BBs is what makes it legend.

Reservations for Selva (221 Richmond St. W.), the “world’s first immersive, multi-sensory art/resto/bar experience,” open Sunday. Leading the culinary program - Nuit Regular, executive chef and co-owner of Kiin, Sabai Sabai, Sukthothai, PAI Northern Thai Kitchen, and By Chef Nuit. She took over the food program at The Fifth and RendezViews at the same address this summer.

Victory Food encompasses all your fast food cravings – smash burgers, fried chicken, pizza, and desserts – with a few salads added in for good measure. The line by Chef Victor Barry (PIANO PIANO, PICCOLO PIANO Pizzeria) debuted yesterday at food hall Kitchen Hub in Cabbagetown (234 Parliament).

CLOSED 

Hanabusa Café in Kensington Market (77 Kensington Ave.) is no more.

Rosy Kitchen in Danforth Village (2620 Danforth Ave.) has shuttered.

Wong’s Ice Cream & Store is closing for good. Better stock up. What flavours will you miss the most?

EVENTS

COMEBACK is on at stackt market this weekend with a pop-up restaurant, vendor village featuring 20+ small local businesses, and much more.

Street Eats Market x Scarborough Town Centre returns this weekend with The Mac and Cheese Festival.

I first discovered Ensanemada in July. Find an array of ”Filipino brioche with a twist” at The District Kitchen at Square One (100 City Centre Dr.) this weekend.

Big Trouble Pizza’s next burger pop-up is happening Monday in front of soon-to-be neighbours Famiglia Baldassarre (122 Geary Ave.).

NEWS

You’ll soon be able to purchase local craft brews at farmers’ markets.

Could the City’s CaféTO  patio program become permanent?

ICYMI

Have you downloaded your enhanced COVID-19 vaccine certificate? For how to get yours, head to the TR Proof of Vaccination Guide.

If you haven’t already subscribed to the newsletter, now’s the time. Get The Tip Off, a sneak peek at the upcoming Open/Closed (because who doesn’t want to be the first to know?), and fab deals and special offers from restaurants and local businesses (because who doesn’t want to save money?), all exclusive to subscribers. 

Please support local businesses whenever possible.

Life moves fast - I wrote about +110 new arrivals in September alone. Catch up on previous editions of the OPEN/CLOSED. 

Things change quickly. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.   

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Get in touch.

Need help promoting your menu, bottle shop, or private dining space but you’re on a budget? We can help. *Prices have been reduced to help local businesses during this time. Limited space available.

OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News October 14-20, 2021

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings  - virtual/brick-and-mortar/pop-ups/allll the things - and food/drink news in the city. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

🕒 12.5 min read

Last night, the Toronto Maple Leafs played the Montréal Canadians at Scotiabank Arena to 100 per cent capacity crowd of approximately 19K  while restaurants remain stalled at a 50 per cent cap. Rumblings are that this may change Monday. Fingers/ladles crossed.

In the meantime, I’ve got 24 arrivals for you sink your teeth into.

Here’s the very latest:

OPEN

Amano Trattoria (9 Church St.),”inspired by” sister venture Amano Italian Kitchen, debuts Tuesday with an assortment of handmade pasta, traditional style pizza, and assaggini boards.

Greg O’Brien has been in hospitality for 15+ years, most recently at Beckta Dining & Wine in Ottawa. Then COVID-19 hit. Off work and at home, trying to figure out what to do, he and wife Sarah workshopped ideas over cocktails every day 4pm, finally dreaming up Bar from Afar, a  delivery based speakeasy style cocktail kits operation, with mixer kits that allow customers to choose a variety of spirits - as opposed to the usual gin or vodka based boxes. Demand in the country’s capital was high. Then requests from the 6ix started to appear. After pop-ups in the GTA last spring were “super well received,” O’Brien tells me, they launched the biz here two weeks ago at King and Niagara (229 Niagara St.). The commercial kitchen where syrups and purees are made, remains in Ottawa.

The Benue arrived at the corner of Christie and Davenport (440 Christie St.) just before Christmas, but with the windows papered up, the Nigerian eatery went largely undetected outside the pickup/delivery zone. Pro tip: Don’t sleep on these soups, stews, savoury snacks (Sausage Roll, Meat Pie, Scotch Egg) and mains such as Asun ($20) Roasted chunks of goat meat, tripe, and cow skin garnished with scotch bonnet peppers and onions; Peppered Snail ($22.99) ssautéed with onions and peppers, drizzled in a spicy sauce; Turkey ($12.99) Grilled turkey wing and drumstick smothered in a flavourful tomato-based sauce; Party Jollof Rice ($9.99) infused with spices, tomatoes, and smoky flavours.

The Black Lagoon Pop-Up helmed by industry vets Kelsey Ramage (Supernova Ballroom, Dolly Trolly Drinks) and LA-based Erin Hayes (Westward Whiskey, LiveWire Drinks) has finally arrived. The “Toronto Halloween pop-up of your nightmares” pops off today in Bloorcourt (866 Bloor St. W.), running through to Allhallows Eve, natch.

Café/bottle shop Boxcar Social officially opens in the lobby of  at The Waverly at College and Spadina (484 Spadina Ave.) tomorrow at 8am. This marks the fourth locations for the local hotspot for wine, whisky and third wave java.

Since Gong Cha’s inception in 2006 in Kaohsiung, Taiwan, the tea company has grown to 1.1K shops across 20 countries. The newest addition: 451 Danforth Ave. in Greektown. 

Johnson Family Bakery specializes in naturally leavened artisan bread and Swedish pastries. The home baked goods by trained chef Charles Johnson can be found inside The Dizzy Gastro Sports Pub (305 Roncesvalles Ave.) Thursday to Sunday, in addition to home delivery.

Hot tip: Konjiki Ramen and accompanying Saryo Café softly launched today at Yorkdale (3401 Dufferin St.). Note: A limited menu will be available for a few days while staff is trained. Did you know? The first North American location of the Tokyo Michelin guide recommended Japanese ramen restaurant by Mr. Atsushi Yamamoto opened in Toronto in December 2017. A second debuted downtown earlier this year.

Psst: MIMI Chinese (265 Davenport Rd.) doesn’t open ‘til next week, but resos are happening today. Discover more about this exciting venture from the talented folks behind Sunny’s Chinese.

Tucked away in an industrial block in Vaughan/Woodbridge is Muncho Gusto (271 Jevlan Dr., Unit 17) with a focused menu: tacos, burrito, burger, nachos, pizza fries and meat-stuffed quesadillas (Cheeseburger, Philly Cheesesteak).

First came the Nani's Gelato food truck featuring Parry Sohi’s handmade, small batch artisan Asian and Italian gelato. Next, he secured a spot near Yonge & Bloor Summer 2020. Adding to the brand’s immense success, a shop in Mississauga (6039 Erin Mills Pkwy) just debuted.

Nusa Dua [N2] Kitchen & Bar (56 Bathurst St.) at Bathurst and Wellington does a mix of traditional Indonesian with fusion fare added in for good measure. For instance, Balinese famous grilled fowl Bebek Betutu ($31.99) Half duck, rice and sambal matah; Nasi Goreng ($17.99) Indonesian style egg fried rice studded with shredded chicken, topped with sunny-side egg; Rendang Wrap ($15.99) Beef rendang, purple cabbage, and yellow rice wrapped in tortilla; Tempeh Satay ($16.99) Grilled tempeh skewer (3) served with peanut sauce and white rice.

Oddseoul (90 Ossington Ave.) is back, this time with a new owner and some new menu items. Come thru.

Find Shelley Delight in the food court at Scarborough’s Parkway Mall (85 Ellesmere Rd.) “specializing in, but never limited to, Caribbean cuisine” by self-taught chef Michelle Berry. Berry, known as Shelley, is the creator behind Shelley Cares Foundation, a registered not-for-profit charitable organization established in 2018 “guided by a mission to positively impact local communities by confronting poverty and hunger,” currently partnered with the Toronto Public Library to provide 10 wi-fi hot spots “to low-income families, seniors, or individuals who face barriers in accessing internet connectivity in their homes, especially at this time.⁠” 

Soft Dough Co.’s pop-up at The District Kitchen in Square One (100 City Centre Dr.) commences today with Basque cheesecakes⁣, cinnamon buns, madeleines,⁣ cream cakes⁣, coffee and tea.

The Source Bulk Foods has been expanding its footprint across the GTA this last while. I was the first to tell you about  the zero waste bulk store from Australia’s outposts in Roncy and Oakville earlier this year. Doors opened yesterday in Leslieville (901 Queen St. E.). 

Bubble tea shop Suntea offers a wide range of selections, some that appear as much snack as sipper: Purple Sticky Rice & Tofu Milk Tea, Ovaltine Crunch & Boba Milk Tea, Cheese Cream Matcha. See for yourself at their new satellites at Yonge and Finch (5373 Yonge St.) and Markham East (5990 16th Ave., Unit 222), following an unveiling in Richmond Hill (280 West Beaver Creek Rd, Unit 12) in March.

Sweet2th materialized in Oakville (300 Lakeshore Rd. E.) with a boatload of sweets in the form of candy, chocolate, ice cream, gelato, and crepes, just in time for Halloween. 

It’s been a minute (nearly two years) since Track & Field – est 2015 - charmed crowds with their libations/lawn games combo housed  n a subterranean spot at College and Ossington ( 860 College St.). T&F is back, this time in a new spot - Little Italy (582 College St.) where Mad Crush Wine Bar and later The Peacock Public House once stood - with new games and ‘Snack & Field’ menu by chef Matt Basile, founder of Fidel Gatro’s. Doors open tomorrow.

Aromatic Egyptian sandos paired with dukka dusted fries at a price you can afford – what’s not to love? Thus, it’s no surprise last year’s arrival Tut’s Egyptian Street Food at King and Portland has been such a success. The second outpost quietly opened in Little Italy (617 College St.) last week where Masalawala Indian Canteen was.

Twisted Indian Wraps’ roti and naan wraps, Indian burgers and tacos and keto bowls have been popular at the Yonge and St. Clair eatery that debuted July 2020. Mississauga just got one to call its very own (1560 Dundas St. E., Bldg C3, Unit 2).

CLOSED

TR Newsletter subscribers got the intel first - Adam Skelly, owner of controversial chain Adamson Barbecue, has permanently closed all three locations.  

There’s already a new concept where The Elm Tree (43 Elm St.) stood. See above.

Ryus Noodle Bar’s west end location (669 Queen St. W.) closed May 9, however the Broadview and Danforth spot (786 Broadview Ave.), complete with patio, is here to stay.

Thindi’s last day at World Food Market (335 Yonge St.) will be October 27. Operations are moving to the cafe location on College (400 College St.).

EVENTS

TR Newsletter subscribers were the first to know about Irene Matys - local farm-to-table advocate, food stylist, recipe developer, and on air expert on The Marilyn Denis Show - taking over the Cheese Boutique Food Truck Sunday to cook her favourite Cypriot street foods made with hyper local ingredients. BONUS: All proceeds - 100% - will go to support Lighthouse 4 Grieving Children, an organization in Oakville providing a safe place for grieving children, youth, and families to support each other as they move through their grief.

Vegandale Festival takes place Saturday at Fork York.

NEWS

Verify Ontario, the vaccine confirmation app for businesses, launched today on Apple and Google.

Filming of Dan Brown’s ‘The Lost Symbol’ took over the Patrician Grill earlier this week. Fun fact: It’s a popular setting for film and TV shoots.

Noma is the best in the world, again. Did you know: It’s the majority of  top picks for restaurants to visit in my acclaimed chef series, At The Pass.

Stay tuned – more news ahead in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the TR newsletter. 

ICYMI 

Khao Gaeng in Etobicoke should definitely be on your radar. Think: Thai comfort food by way of rich curries, aromatic stir-fries and addictive noodles. In this week’s At The Pass, chef/owners Nina Chaiwisescharoen and Rida Kongkaew share their latest cookbook purchases, fridge essentials, favourite locals + much more. Read the inspiring interview. 

Please support local businesses whenever possible.

Life moves fast - I wrote about +100 new arrivals in September alone. Catch up on previous editions of the OPEN/CLOSED.   

Things change quickly. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.   

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Get in touch.

Need staff? Help promoting your menu/bottle shop/patio, but you’re on a budget? We can help. *Prices have been reduced to help local businesses during this time. Limited space available. 

At The Pass with Nina Chaiwisescharoen and Rida Kongkaew

Chefs/Owners Nina Chaiwisescharoen (L) and Rida Kongkaew (R) of Khao Gaeng in Etobicoke.

🕒 6 min read

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. Introducing Nina Chaiwisescharoen and Rida Kongkaew.

Currently

Chefs/Owners, Khao Gaeng

Formerly

NC: Thai To Go, Pattaya Thai Kitchen, Jatujak

RK: I was a Mechanical Engineer before moving to Canada. But since I came here, I started working at multiple restaurants in Toronto, some including Thai To Go, Jatujak and Khao San Road.

Favourite dish to make right now

NC: : Pad See Ew, very simple and delicious.

RK: Since the pandemic hit, I promised myself to do a yearly event where I will stop eating meat for a month, so for now any plant-based spicy dish will do!

Last cookbook purchase

NC: Roasting by Peter Swann

RK: Eat Feel Fresh: A Contemporary, Plant-Based Ayurvedic Cookbook by Sahara Rose Ketabi

Have you read it/tried any recipes

NC: I read some of it, tried making Roasted Root Vegetables.

RK: I read it, but didn’t get a chance to make any of them yet.

Chef Nina Chaiwisescharoen.

Name one dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

NC: I think everything should be there.

RK: I love all kinds of food but I’m not a fan of cumin.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

NC: : Pad Gra Prao Kai Dao. Customers like it and think we should advertise more.

RK: Lately I love the taste of sage, so I would love to see some fusion in Thai cuisine.

Biggest influences

NC: My mom, she’s a hard working person.

RK: My mom! Her work ethic, integrity and kindness influenced me to be who I am today. Plus, anything she makes tastes absolutely heavenly

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

NC: Cal Pep, Barcelona.

RK: Not counting my mom’s homecooked meals in Bangkok, I would say Noma in Copenhagen.

Last thing you ate

NC: Warak Enab - stuffed grape leaves.

RK: Vegan Spaghetti Capri.

[image error]

Khao Gaeng’s Signature Pad Gra Prao Kai Dao.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

NC: Fresh garlic, chili, lime, fish sauce. You can make a dressing and have it with anything.

RK: Garlic, Thai chili, Holy basil.

Guilty pleasure

NC: All delicious cakes. 

RK: Fatty foods!

 Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

NC: Buk Chang Dong Soon Tofu, Maurya East Indian Roti, La Sala

RK: Patria, Yasu, Banu

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

NC: Insomnia Restaurant & Lounge, Crafty Coyote, Cider House

RK: Nana, Bar Isabel, Bar Raval

Go-to drink

NC: N/A.

RK: Caesar.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

NC: Lifting box with my back bent.

RK: Not drinking enough water and being a perfectionist.

[image error]

Chef Rida Kongkaew.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

NC: Multiple tasks help for busy times.

RK: If you can’t do what you love (yet), you have to learn to love what you do.

Hidden talent

NC: Gardening.

RK: I can grow any kind of plant.

Best career advice you ever received

NC: Start doing what you want, don’t wait until you think you’re ready, because you never know when. Just do it. I got it from my business partner.

RK: “Leaders must always put their people before themselves. If you do that, your business will take care of itself.” – Alice Watson

Worst career advice you ever received

NC: I don’t have one yet, LOL.

RK: : I don’t think I’ve ever received any bad advice.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

NC: If there’s something that you want, do your best and don’t give up!

RK: You don’t need to be the most talented one in the kitchen. You just need to be disciplined and patient - Rome wasn’t built in a day! Also, take a good care of your physical and mental health. If you want to stay in the industry for a long time, you must stay fit and sane. These are the two most important things!  

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.    

For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.  

OPEN/CLOSED: Toronto Restaurant News October 7-13, 2021

My iconic OPEN/CLOSED is THE most comprehensive resource of restaurant openings (virtual/brick-and-mortar/pop-ups/allll the things) and food/drink news in the GTA. No one does it bigger or better. Watch for the drop every Thursday. #ifyouknowyouknow

🕒 11 min read

The days of a long weekend or national holiday impacting arrivals are long over, as my weekly findings both prior to and throughout the pandemic, confirm. This week is no different, as evidenced by the 17 arrivals below. And stay tuned – more news ahead in The Tip Off, exclusively available in the TR newsletter. In the meantime, happy Thanksgiving.

Here’s the very latest:

OPEN

bb.q Chicken brought its signature fried chicken to the downtown core just two weeks ago, quickly followed by a spot on Elm (43 Elm St.). Doors quietly opened Friday. 

Love tonkatsu? Korean tonkatsu house Brown Donkatsu And Ramen has been a fixture in Markham for some time now, and now North York (6024 Yonge St.) is getting it’s very own outpost. Doors open Tuesday with a host of deals for the grand opening.

TR Newsletter subscribers were the first to get the heads-up about about Deccan’s Delight (1960 Lawrence Ave. E., Unit 18B). The new Indian restaurant at Victoria Park and Lawrence in Scarborough is notable for its Hyderabadi fare including Bagare Baigan (sautéed eggplant in spicy sweet curry  made with peanuts, sesame seeds, coconut, and cashews), Dum ka Kheema (slow-cooked minced mutton), and Goat Paya Nihari (goat feet cooked in an array of spices).

Eisenbergs (4580 Dufferin St.) at Finch and Dufferin is brought  to you by Montrealers who have made Toronto home. The family owned and operated deli-esque eatery is doing their own Jerusalem bagels in-house, alongside paninis, pastries, salads, and smoothies, all inspired by traditional family recipes.

Fall N' Leaves Pop-Up (164 Bathurst St.) - complete with pumpkin patch, partially heated patio, food and wine - is delivering seriously cozy vibes until next Thursday.

Fresh on Eglinton temporarily closed a few weeks back while they prepared to move. Find the healthy chain in their new digs right across the street (101 Eglinton Ave E.).  

If you’re not already a regular at Grape Witches (1247 Dundas St. W.), you should be. Hot tip: Check out the new Salon upstairs.

Holy Cookie has been serving up “Toronto’s finest soft baked cookies” in Kensington all summer. Check out their pop-up this weekend in the same nabe at 4Life Natural Foods (210 Augusta Ave.). Fun Fact: The Crumbs Gourmet Patties Pop-Up at the same location got extended to November. Win-win.

One area that has really transformed in the last few years: Yonge and St. Clair. The latest arrival: Istanbul Doner Wrap (1404 Yonge St.).

Jimmy’s Coffee new Riverside location at Queen and Degrassi (806 Queen St. E.) was formerly home to M'Eat Resto Butcher, which shuttered Fall ’19. Doors open for the local chain on Friday.

Tired of having to fold or roll your own pizza slice? Konz Pizza does heavy lifting with their cone option while also offering pressed and flat varieties, in addition to pastas, poutines and salads. Find the first of three GTA locations at King and Shaw (1029 King St. W.).

China's “biggest halal hand-pulled noodle brand” has landed at Yonge Sheppard Centre (4841 Yonge St,). This marks the third location in the GTA for Omni Palace Noodle House.

Pür & Simple’s expansion has been on a steady climb throughout the pandemic with two in February and one earlier this month. It continues with an outpost opening in Woodbridge (130 Windflower Gate) Tuesday.

I heard about Strange Love Cafe’s plans to open at the base of University (1 University Ave.) years ago. Back when they were Strange Love Coffee. And way before any new mood-enhancing wellness bars adaptogenic mushroom powered drinks were on the scene. Psst. The space finally welcomed guests last week. It turns out they’re just getting started. In the works: NY and LA for 2022.

Super Chicken is adding to the evergrowing fam. Grand opening celebrations for the  new downtown venue (995 Bay St.) include 50 Free Spicy Chicken Sandwiches on Sat and Sun at 2pm (one per person), and a giveaway of  $50 Cash and 1 Free Spicy Sandwich for one lucky winner.

Thai Barn Na Kitchen + Bar has softly opened in Etobicoke (256 Brown’s Line) with vegan, vegetarian, gluten free and certified halal options, house-infused spirits, and not-to-be-missed dishes including Curry Fish Fries.

Tom Yum Restaurant And Wine Bar (21 Grenville St.) is currently in soft opening. On the menu: Asian inspired tapas such as Little Bird's Nest ($16) inspired by Pad Krapow Moo with ground pork, house made purple rice and “pink running egg.” There’s also Roasted Cornish Hen ($28) marinated in house red curry sauce, and a seafood dish that shares its name with Netflix’s fastest growing show ever, Squid Game ($18). 

CLOSED 

Sunday may be the last day for Kekou Gelato’s Queen and Spadina outpost (394 Queen St. W.), but  the North York shop (5359 Yonge St.) will keep you stocked in their signature gelato and bubble tea.

Tapas style bar Kingyo Izakaya in Cabbagetown (51 Winchester St.) is changing things up after Halloween. Will November 1st reveal sister concept, plant-based Tsuchi Café, in its stead?  Stay tuned.

The Simple Kitchen’s last day in Roncy (73 Roncesvalles Ave.) is Saturday, but they’re staying put in Oakville.

Curtain call for Two Hot Babes Coffee Co., that opened inside Wenona Craft Beer Lodge (1069 Bloor St. W.) during the pandemic, is Monday. Owner Nancy hopes her ‘covid survival project’  inspires others to “do the thing.”

EVENTS        

Tomorrow’s the last night for Night Market Toronto’s Harvest Festival at Square One (Lot P6).

Between the midway, inflatable corn maze, and mini putt, kiddos will lose their minds at this weekend’s PumpkinFest Toronto at Downsview Park. 

If you’re of the mind ‘chicken is a bird; fried chicken is a way of life,’ this weekend’s Fried Chicken Fest by Street Eats Market x Scarborough Town Centre, is for you.

Psst. Make sure to follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram for pop-up news and exclusive events coverage.

NEWS

Celebrity chef Mark McEwan and his many restaurants and businesses made headlines this week after filing for creditor protection last month.

Fahrenheit Coffee posted a ‘Public Service Announcement’ in light of “recent altercations.”

Convenience stores want to sell local beer, wine and coolers. What say you?

The legendary El Mocambo is finally set to officially reopen on October 30 in its new digs (464 Spadina Ave,) with Toronto’s own Our Lady Peace.

ICYMI

Transgender rights do not get much, if any coverage in mainstream media these days, and zero when it comes to hospitality, so it’s up to individuals to document their experiences. Dento Lam has been chronicling his long and tireless journey on social media for years. A passionate, hard-working baker at top establishments across the city for over a decade including a high-end hotel, buzzy French restaurant, and collaborating with an award-winning patisserie and chocolatier, it’s not until now, at his new place of work Forno Cultura, benefits cover his testosterone injections - an important part of his transition. Prior to this, he paid out of pocket for 9.5 years. Get to know Dento in this week’s captivating At The Pass. Discover the incredible dish he’s making right now, his favourite restaurants (and bakery!) around town, the advice he thankfully didn’t take, and much more in this compelling interview, complete with transgender resources.

Thanksgiving is quickly on the approach. Feeling unprepared? Overwhelmed? Help is here, courtesy of top Toronto chefs, restaurants and shops with tantalizing recipes all week long to get you on track. Kicking things off: Sanagan's Meat Locker Roast Turkey with Stuffing, and Chef Lynn’s Harvest Apple Pie. Stay tuned - exciting new recipes dropping this weekend.

AndIf you haven’t already subscribed to the newsletter, now’s the time. Get The Tip Off, a sneak peek at the upcoming OPEN/CLOSED (Because who doesn’t want to be the first to know? And because you missed what’s replacing an iconic ), and fab deals and special offers from restaurants and local businesses (because who doesn’t want to save money?), all exclusive to subscribers. 

Please support local businesses whenever possible.

Life moves fast - I wrote about +110 new arrivals in September alone. Catch up on previous editions of the OPEN/CLOSED. 

Things change quickly. Follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook for breaking news, updates, interviews + more.   

Hear of a place that’s about to open or just closed? Have an upcoming food or restaurant event? Get in touch. 

Need help promoting your menu/cocktail kits/new location, but you’re on a budget? We can help. *Prices have been reduced to help local businesses during this time. Limited space available. BOOK NOW.

Chef Lynn Crawford’s Harvest Apple Pie

[image error]

Perhaps you know Celebrity chef Lynn Crawford from her award-winning restaurants (Ruby Watchco, The Hearth at Pearson International Airport Toronto), hit Food Network TV shows (Restaurant Makeover, Pitchin’ In, The Great Canadian Cookbook, Iron Chef Canada), and as a judge on Top Chef Canada, Chopped Canada and appearances on countless other shows.

Or maybe you covet her acclaimed cookbooks: Lynn Crawford’s Pitchin’ In: More Than 100 Great Recipes from Simple Ingredients, At Home with Lynn Crawford: 200 of My Favourite Easy Recipes, Farm to Chef: Cooking Through the Seasons. Her tome Hearth & Home: Cook, Share, and Celebrate Family Style with wife Lora Kirk debuted earlier this week.

In Farm To Chef: Cooking Through The Seasons, she writes:

“I love pie. A good apple pie stuffed with just-picked apples tossed with cinnamon, nutmeg and sugar nestled in a buttery crust… oh yes, that’s what I’m talking about. But which apple to choose, you ask? Tart or sweet, or a combination of both - I will leave that decision up to you.”

Pumpkin pie may be stealing the spotlight right now, but with the arrival of cooler weather and apple season in Ontario, it’s the perfect time for a slice of apple pie served on its own, à la mode, with whipped cream or cheese.

Harvest Apple Pie

Ingredients

Pie Dough

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

2 tbsp granulated sugar, plus 1 tbsp for sprinkling on top

1 tsp salt

¾ cup cold unsalted butter, cut into chunks

¹∕³ cup cold vegetable shortening, cut into chunks

6 to 8 tbsp cold water

1 large egg, lightly beaten with 1 tbsp water, for egg wash

Apple Filling

2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted

¼ cup granulated sugar

¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar

1 tsp cinnamon

½ tsp nutmeg

8 tart apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled, cored and thinly sliced

2 tbsp lemon juice

¼ cup all-purpose flour

Make the Pie Dough

In a food processor, combine flour, sugar, salt, butter, and shortening. Pulse until mixture resembles pea-size crumbles. Add 6 tablespoons water and continue to pulse until dough comes together. Squeeze a small amount of dough between your fingers, and if it is very crumbly, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time. Do not over-process. Divide dough in half and flatten each half into a disc. Wrap discs in plastic wrap and chill for at least 1 hour before using.

Preheat oven to 400°F.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll out each disc of dough into a 12-inch circle. Fold one round into quarters and place dough into an ungreased 9-inch pie plate. Unfold dough, then press firmly against bottom and sides. Trim crust to ½ inch over the edge of pie plate. Set aside.

Make The Apple Filling And Bake The Pie

In a large bowl, combine melted butter, granulated sugar and brown sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Add apples and lemon juice and toss lightly to coat. Dust apples with flour and toss again. Spoon apple mixture into prepared crust.

Brush edge of bottom crust with some egg wash. Top with the second pastry round and trim edges to about 1 inch over the rim. Tuck edge of the top crust under edge of the bottom crust and crimp both together with your fingers or a fork. Brush entire top crust with egg wash, then sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar. Cut three 1-inch slits in top crust. Bake until crust is golden brown and filling is bubbling about 1 hour. Let cool completely before serving.

Chef Lynn Crawford’s Harvest Apple Pie is excerpted from FARM TO CHEF: COOKING THROUGH THE SEASONS © 2017 by Lynn Crawford. Photography © 2017 by Virginia Macdonald. Reproduced by permission of Penguin Random House/Penguin Canada. All rights reserved.

For breaking news, updates, interviews + much more, follow Toronto Restaurants on Instagram and Facebook and subscribe to the newsletter.