Marisa McClellan's Blog, page 93

Cookbooks: New German Cooking

When I was growing up, any time someone suggested eating at a German restaurant, my mother would immediately make a comment about the heaviness of the cuisine and offer Vietnamese or Thai as an alternative. I absorbed her words and spent most of my lifetime assuming that German food was something best avoided.

However, in the years since I’ve been living in Philadelphia, I’ve discovered that the spectrum of German food is much broader I had previously understood. This education has come thanks to Brauhaus Schmitz and their Reading Terminal Market deli, Wursthaus Schmitz.

Happily, the goodness of Brauhaus Schmitz is now available to people beyond the wilds of Philadelphia, thanks to New German Cooking. Written by the husband and wife team behind the restaurant, Jeremy and Jessica Nolen, with local food writer Drew Lazor, it’s a gorgeous book that will no doubt make you hungry (the photography by Jason Varney is also fantastic).

The book has nine chapters (guess which one I’m most excited by?):

Breads & Spreads
Salads
Soups
Fish, Shellfish & Poultry
Meat & Game
Vegetables
Noodles & Dumplings
Pickles & Condiments (though I must point out, in the picture above, a threaded mason jar has been topped with a lid from an old time jelly jar. I can see that texturally it looks good, but it irritates the canning stickler in me).
Desserts

I have a list of ten dishes I’d like to try, with the Pilsner and Pickle Brined Chicken (page 102) being on the very tip top of the list (leftover pickle brine haunts my dreams). I may just go for a two-fer and make the Potato and Sauerkraut Gratin (page 157) to go with it.

Related Posts:

In Deep Autumn
A Rustic Peach Tart with Jason Varney

Preserves in Action: Kimchi Quesadilla

I taught a class Monday night and by the time I got home, I was ravenous. I’d eaten all the interesting leftovers for lunch and my husband had made himself a meal of hot dogs and peas from the freezer. Looking into the fridge, I spotted a package of whole wheat tortillas, a jar of kimchi, and a block of cheddar cheese. Kimchi quesadillas it was!*

To make the quesadilla, I plunk a skillet on the stove and start heat the pan over medium-high heat. Once it’s hot, I put the bottom tortilla into the skillet. I don’t add any oil because my pan is seasoned well enough that for a quick job like this, it just doesn’t need it. If you were using a stainless steel pan, you might want a quick slick of oil to prevent sticking.

Yes, I’m using store bought kimchi. I am out of my homemade version and with the book work going on around here, I just cannot muster the will to make a fresh batch.

 

Then I spread the grated cheese out on the tortilla, taking care to keep it on the tortilla and off the actual pan. Then I fork out some kimchi. Because I have a small obsessive streak, I try and make sure that my kimchi is placed so that I will get some in every bite. Then I put the second tortilla on top, pressing down gently with the palm of my hand to help adhere it to the melting cheese.

Because my burners heat incredibly unevenly, I end up rotating the pan during cooking, so that all sides get even toasting. Using a flexible fish spatula (the best tool ever for jobs like this), I peek underneath the bottom tortilla. If it is golden, it is time to flip. The second side needs just a minute or two. Once it’s done, I put it on a cutting board to let it cool for a moment and then cut it up into wedges using a big knife.

This would work just as deliciously if you cooked sauerkraut or some other tangy pickled vegetable into the quesadilla. I’ve also made something similar with a few spoonfuls of chutney to very good effect. Heck, you could even make a dessert preserves in action quesadilla using fresh ricotta cheese and some fruit preserves. The options are endless!

*I do not claim to have invented the kimchi quesadilla. As far as I can tell, the idea has been floating around the internet since late 2009, when Roy Choi’s recipe was printed in one of the final issues of Gourmet. Still, it’s a good one!

Related Posts:

Preserves in Action: Open Faced Kimchi & Egg Sandwich
Homemade Kimchi

Jar Storage: Sheet Pans and the Space Under the Couch

This is my couch. It once belonged to my grandparents and family lore dates it back to around 1960. When I was very young, it was covered in a burnt orange upholstery. Sometime in the mid-eighties, my grandmother had it recovered in the very pink fabric you now see.

Some might thing that after 55 years of service, it would be time for a new sofa, but I disagree. I am never getting rid of this couch (though it may well get another upholstery job sometime in the new future). It is impossibly comfortable (it is ideal for napping, sleeping even my 6’4″ husband comfortably), is built like a beast (our Pottery Barn loveseat is falling to pieces after two years. This one has served for a half-century), and best of all, has magical storage space underneath.

I’ve had boxes of jars and preserves stuffed under this couch for years now, but it was always a haphazard arrangement. It was hard to keep track of what was down there and fishing out the exact box I was looking for was forever an exercise in frustration. A couple times I drove myself crazy looking for jars from a particular batch of chutney, finally discovering they were tucked away in the far corner under the couch.

Then a solution fell in my lap. I ordered a lot of seven old sheet pans from eBay in my on-going search for good photo backdrops (well-worn metal being a prized surface among food bloggers). My original intention was to keep just one or two. However, once they arrived, I started wondering what other role they might be able to serve.

In a flash of genius, I realized that I could pull all the boxes out from under the couch and replace them with the sheet pans. It would be easier to slide the jars in and out and since I already label my jars on the lid, I’d be able to find the exact jar I was looking for with a single glance.

And so, I started pulling my various jar storage mechanisms apart. It was one of those projects that felt insane halfway through. I had boxes and jars all over the apartment. I categorized, purged elderly jars, and even found a couple preserves that had lost their seal. My husband made a comment about productive procrastination (I do have a book manuscript due in just six weeks), but endured the days of chaos without complaint.

What I have now is a really workable storage system for half-pint jars (my couch isn’t quite tall enough to accommodate anything larger). They’re sorted into jams, pickles and chutneys, butters and chutneys, and jams, syrups and whole fruit. While this doesn’t house the entirety of my pantry, it’s a goodly chunk and for that, I am grateful.

Tips to Implement Something Similar

New sheet pans are expensive, but old ones can be had relatively cheaply if you know where to look. I paid $40 for seven on eBay and there are more to be had for similar prices. You can also call your local restaurant supply store. Often they sell new and used gear, and might have a stack of used pans that they’d be willing to part with for less than brand new retail.
One of the reasons this works is that my floors are carpeted. If you have floors made of scratch-prone material, I’d suggest putting some felt pads on the bottom of the pans. These will help them slide and will protect your floors.
Make sure to label the pans. This storage method is going to serve you best if you know where various categories of preserves live. My groupings might not make sense for you, but make sure you create some order within the chaos.
If you don’t have a similarly cooperative couch, consider using this same approach with the space under a bed or dresser.

Now, it’s your turn. What creative approaches do you use to keep your homemade pantry organized and contained?

Related Posts:

Giveaway: The JarBOX (sponsored by Fillmore Container)

Giveaway: Purple Blossom uCaps from Spice Ratchet

Spice Ratchet is the company that makes the Blossom Trivet, aka my favorite canning rack in all the world. Last fall, they premiered a line of Blossom uCaps. Crafted from food safe silicone, these snap on lids come in storage, drinking, flower arrangement configurations and have been a very welcome addition to the mason jar accessory world.

This season, the Spice Ratchet team have released a purple addition to the Blossom uCap line to match Ball’s special edition jars for this year. Happily, I have some of these nifty purple lids to give away. Three winners will each get a pair of the new purple Blossom uCap storage caps along with duo of purple pint jars.

Here’s how to enter:

Leave a comment on this post and share what you’d store under a purple uCap!
Comments will close at 11:59 pm eastern time on Saturday, March 21, 2015. Winners will be chosen at random and will be posted to the blog on Sunday, March 22, 2015.
Giveaway open to United States residents only.
One comment per person, please. Entries must be left via the comment form on the blog at the bottom of this post.

Disclosure: Spice Ratchet is providing the lids for the giveaway. They are also a Food in Jars sponsor and so do help contribute to the running of this site. And yet, all opinions remain entirely mine. 

Related Posts:

March Sponsors: Cuppow, Fillmore Container, Spice Ratchet, Mighty Nest, and Fermentools
Giveaway: Blossom Trivets from Spice Ratchet
Giveaway: Blossom uCap from Spice Ratchet

Links: Marmalades, Bread Crumbs, and Winners

I hope everyone has had a nice weekend! Mine was focused on work related to the new book and spending a little time with a friend who was in from out of town. In other news, I’ve restarted the Food in Jars newsletter, after letting it sit fallow for most of the winter. I’ll be sending it out twice a month from here on out, so if you want to join in on the fun, sign up here. You can also see the latest edition here. Now, links!

I find myself madly wishing it was currant season, so that I could make this pickle.
More meyer lemon marmalade.
Speaking of marmalade, Julie took my meyer lemon and rhubarb version out for a spin.
Citron melon pickles! A few years back Nadia gave me a pair of citron melons. I made the most delicious jam from them and never managed to write about it. Maybe someday!
This blog post made me want to toast up some bread crumbs and put them on everything.
Some tasty escabeche from the Tacolicious cookbook.
Peach cobbler, made with home preserved fruit.
Car snack number 6 (I love Alana’s car snacks. Her nutty granola bar, aka car snack number 3, is one of my go-to recipes).

Time to announce the winners of last week’s EcoJarz giveaway! They are #14/Monica, #79/Julie, and #124/Anna B. I’ll have another fun jar accessory giveaway up tomorrow, so check back for that!

Related Posts:

Links: Repurposed Ferments, Pancakes, and Winners
Links: Cheese Boards, Hamantaschen, and Winners
Links: Rosehips, Muffins, and Winners

Other People’s Preserves: S&V Artisanal Jams

Other People’s Preserve is my opportunity to shine a spotlight on some of the very delicious jams, pickles, and condiments being made by dedicated professionals. If you see one of these products out in the wild, consider picking up a jar, tub, or bottle!

S&V Jams are all made in Manhattan, by hand and in small batches by Victor Eskenazi. I know for a fact that Victor is passionate about his preserves, because we’ve had long email exchanges over the years about pectin, sweeteners, and sourcing jars and he took one of my Brooklyn Kitchen classes a couple of summers ago.

Last summer, Victor came to one of my Greenmarket demos in New York and gave me a jar of his strawberry jam. It tastes assertively of berry, with the sugar supporting the fruit but not overwhelming it. Made with ripe, seasonal fruit, it’s an gloriously perfect example of how strawberry jam should taste.

S&V Jams come in 18 flavors and can be ordered directly from Victor through his website. Just know that he works in small batches, so inventory may be limited. If you do order, tell Victor I say hi!

Disclosure: S&V Jams provided the pictured jar at no cost to me. No other compensation changed hands.



Related Posts:

Other People’s Preserves: Omnivore Sauce from Garibaldi Goods
Other People’s Preserves: Jolene’s Jars
Other People’s Preserves: Department of Sweet Diversions

Cookbooks: Brown Eggs and Jam Jars

I met first met Aimée Wimbush-Bourque in person at one of the early Big Summer Potlucks. We’d known each other online for some time before that, so in many ways, that first encounter was like reuniting with a friend, just one I’d happened never to have met before. We bonded over our shared love of canning and have stayed in touch ever since.

When Aimée announced that she was working on her first book, I knew immediately that it would be one that I’d add to my shelf for the long haul. There has been little that Aimée has posted on Simple Bites over the years that I didn’t want to cook immediately and so I was certain that Brown Eggs and Jam Jars would be full of just the kinds of things I would crave.

This book has far exceeded my hopes and expectations. It is a gorgeous, hefty paperback, bursting with delicious words, recipes, and images. The book is organized by season, with each time of year broken down further by the special activities that time of year contains. I particularly want to crawl right into the Sugaring Off chapter which kicks off the meat of the book.

In addition to the very useful recipes, you’ll find that the book is studded with essays that deal with topics like making your canning work for you, tips on urban homesteading, and how to thrive with kids in the kitchen. There’s also a great introduction that goes through equipment and basic ingredients to keep in the pantry.

A note for those of you without kids. This book has a strong family focus. That makes sense because Aimée and her husband Danny have three young children. If that fact makes you pause, worry not. There is plenty in this book for households of just one or two.

All told, this is a lovely book, bursting with appealing recipes and a personable voice. There are so many preserves I’ve added to my list for the coming season, from Baba’s Sweet Mustard Pickles pictured above, to the Roasted Peach Barbecue Sauce and the Cranberry Pear Mincemeat. I am certain that this is going to be a well-loved and much stained book by this time next year.

Related Posts:

Cookbooks: Against the Grain
Giveaway: Fresh & Fermented
Cookbook: A Kitchen in France

Preserves in Action: Israeli Couscous Salad with Roasted Squash and Pickled Cauliflower

Like so many of the salads I’ve in the past, this one came to be thanks to a chorus of ingredients that were clamoring for attention. I had a trio of rapidly softening shallots in the fruit basket, an aging butternut squash on the counter, and both some pickled cauliflower and wilted cilantro in the fridge.

I used Israeli couscous because it was the vehicle I could most easily put hands on (the bag was on the counter). Farro, wheat berries, orzo, or quinoa would also be good options. I happen to adore Israeli couscous because it has such a nice bite, but if you’re avoiding refined carbs or wheat entirely, know that the salad won’t suffer from a swap.

Here’s how it came together. I peeled the squash, removed the seeds, cut away a soft spot, and diced it. I combined those cubes with slivers of shallot and a good glug of olive oil on a roasted sheet and tucked it into a very hot oven (450 degrees F). The couscous I cooked in a large pot of salted water brought to a rolling boil (it cooks quickly, so watch carefully).

Once the couscous was done, I drained it and turned it out into a large bowl. I added chopped bits of pickled cauliflower and minced cilantro. Once the squash and shallots were done, they went in too. I dressed it with pickle juice, olive oil, a squirt of lemon, a little freshly ground black pepper, and some of the orange zest salt I made recently.

I ate it warm over some baby arugula for dinner the first night and then cold for lunch for the next couple of days. I found that it benefitted from an extra dose of olive oil on the second and third days, as it needed just a hint of moisture.

It’s a formula that is endlessly flexible for the season and the contents of your kitchen. In the summer, I make something similar with barley, pickled red onion, minced cucumbers, parsley, and crumbled feta. Once spring is more firmly here, I’ll be roasting asparagus and spring onions for a turn in a quinoa salad. The secret is to limit the number of ingredients to no more than six, use a fresh herb if you can get it, and chop the pickles very fine.

Related Posts:

Preserves in Action: Tomato, Basil, Mozzarella and Pickle Salad
Preserves in Action: Avocado Sauerkraut Sauce
Preserves in Action: Eggs Over Sauerkraut

Canning 101: Can You Preserve With Artificial Sweeteners?

A couple weeks ago, I wrote a Canning 101 post about the different roles that sugar plays in preserving. This was my attempt to conclusively answer the questions I regularly get from people wanting to reduce the amount of sugar in their preserves.

There was one thing I didn’t address in that post and that was question of artificial sweeteners, like Splenda, Equal, Truvia, or xylitol. Personally, I don’t work with artificial sweeteners much simply because I don’t like the way they taste. I do understand, though, that for some folks it is necessary to use these products as a way to cut back on sugar. So here we go.

First, let’s talk about the situations in which artificial sweeteners aren’t going to work. When you make jam in the traditional manner, you are relying on the fact that as you cook, the sugar you added to the fruit is going to thicken as heat is applied, eventually thickening to the point where it bonds with the conventional pectin (either natural or added). If you remove the sugar from the equation, the jam is never going to set.

Sure, you might be able to boil it down into something to stir into yogurt, but it’s not going to be jam. What’s more, lots of the artificial sweeteners become bitter during extended cooking, so if you added your sweetener at the beginning of the cooking and then boiled the heck out of the fruit for 45 minutes, the finished product may well be inedible.

What this really means is that you can’t take a traditional recipe for jam, swap in Splenda and think you’re going to get anywhere near the same result. I know this might feel frustrating to some of you, but truly, this advice will save you buckets of aggravation in the long run.

So, here’s what you can do. You can use pectin that was designed to work in low or no-sugar environments. There are a couple different versions out there. Ball makes a special modified pectin and the package insert will be able to guide you through the process of creating serviceable jams.

Pomona’s Pectin is another good option. Known as low methoxyl pectin, it’s requires both a pectin made from citrus peels and a calcium solution. Instead of needing sugar to trigger the set, the calcium activates the pectin. This means that you can make spreadable preserves with whatever sweetener you choose, including a wide range of artificial sweeteners.

Another option is to start making fruit butters rather than jams and jellies. When you make a fruit butter, you cook a fruit puree at low temperature for a long period of time. In doing so, you remove much of the moisture, and concentrate the natural sugars in the fruit. You can then either leave it as-is (though the juice of a lemon or two will help preserve the color and brighten the flavor) or adjust it slightly with the artificial sweetener of your choice.

Just remember, as discussed in this blog post, when you reduce or remove sugar, shelf life and the quality once open shortens. I combat this by making low sugar or sugar-free preserves in small batches and canning them in four ounce jars, to ensure that they are as good and fresh as I can make them.

Related Posts:

Canning 101: Learning to be Flexible
Canning 101: How to Ensure That Your Jam Sets
Canning 101: Why Do Colors Change in Home Canned Foods?

Giveaway: EcoJarz Jar Hugger Handle and Green Pop Top

I’ve got a good giveaway for you this week! Our friends at EcoJarz are on a quest to make it ever more convenient to use mason jars a travel mugs and this pairing may well take the cake on that front. They’ve created a cozy called the JarHugger Handle made of recycled denim that has a large, sturdy loop built in for easy gripping.

Coupled with their sealable silicone Pop Top, this is accessory duo will have you ready for portable coffee, smoothies, and iced tea drinking.

This week, I have three of these cozy and topper sets to give away. Here’s how to enter.

Leave a comment on this post share one thing you’re looking forward to about spring!
Comments will close at 11:59 pm east coast time on Saturday, March 14, 2015. The winner will be chosen at random and will be posted to the blog by Sunday, March 15, 2015.
Giveaway is open to US residents and Canadian residents.
One comment per person, please. Entries must be left on the blog, I cannot accept submissions via email.

Disclosure: EcoJarz is providing the cozies and pop tops for this giveaway. They have not paid for promotion and at the time of this writing, are not current Food in Jars sponsors. All thoughts and opinions are entirely my own. 

 

Related Posts:

Giveaway: New Products from EcoJarz
Giveaway: Fresh Herb Keepers from Ball Canning
Giveaway: iLids Drink and Storage Lids for Mason Jars