Jonelle Patrick's Blog, page 23
June 1, 2019
Fabulous Blooming Tea At The En Tea House
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Inside the TeamLab Borderless digital museum is the En Tea House, where you can watch your tea bloom before your eyes. It costs an extra ¥500, but it’s worth it!
Here’s how to get the most enjoyment and the best pix from your visit…
How to find it: Follow the signs upstairs to the Athletic Forest. It’s on the left, just past the gatekeeper who lectures you about proper footwear in the play area.
On the way to the reception desk, choose your tea from the menu – they have a nice variety, including herbal decaf options, both hot and cold. They’re all ¥500. I tried the cold yuzu-flavored green tea, and it was delish. Order and pay at the counter, then you’ll be ushered to seats in the dark tea room. Give your token to the server, and you’ll soon be served a clear glass bowl of frothy brew. As the bowl is set before you, a pinpoint will kindle on the surface of the tea and a bouquet will slowly unfold before you.
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The blooming flowers are in soft focus because they’re projected on froth, not a hard surface, but they’re still beautiful
There are several varieties of bouquets, so be patient if you like your neighbor’s flowers better than your own. Your next one will be different.
As long as you leave your bowl on the table, flowers will bloom on the surface, but that’s all. You have to lift the bowl and drink (or at least lift the bowl) for them to break apart and whirl away, as if blown by a breeze.
Note: When you do take a sip, do it slowly and carefully so you don’t disturb the layer of bubbles on the surface. The flowers don’t show up on plain tea.
You can put the bowl down anywhere, and the new bouquet will find it.
Here’s what the whole experience looks like:
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It’s kind of great to see the tea bowl next to you blooming too…
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…in fact, as the bouquets fly apart on all the neighboring bowls, they fill the entire table with petals
I hope you enjoy this as much as I did!
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Something to enjoy alongside your next bowl of tea – a novel set in Tokyo
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The #1 hostboy at Club Nova makes a handsome living, whispering sweet nothings in the ears of women who pay him a fortune for the privilege. But the party’s over when Tokyo Detective Kenji Nakamura is assigned to investigate the death of…read more
May 31, 2019
Move Over, Monkeys! See-no Evil, Hear-no-Evil, Speak-no-Evil Cats Are Here
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Sticking to the straight and narrow has never been cuter, thanks to these adorable kittycat gacha-gacha toys, and the vending machine that dispenses them on the Yanaka Ginza shopping street.
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And each comes with an object of mid-century tech to remind us that seeing, hearing, and speaking evil has never been harder to avoid
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See no fake news…
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…or let your eyeballs get sucked into the black hole of YouTube cat videos
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Hear no dubious pitches from crypto hucksters…
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…or scamsters claiming you should send them your life savings because, “Hey, it’s me!”
But most of all…
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Speak no spoilers to those who have not yet watched
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I’m sure you can tell I’m relieved that there’s no don’t-spend-all-your-laundry-coins-on-gachapon-vending-machines cat in this series….
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While you’re in Japan, read a novel set in Tokyo!
“A genuinely gripping crime thriller which wrong-foots and perplexes the reader throughout, drawing us in emotionally . . . Highly recommended.”
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For nine years, Tokyo Detective Kenji Nakamura thought his mother’s death was an accident. Then he gets a call, and his life begins to unravel. Because if her death wasn’t an accident…what was it? Read more…
May 25, 2019
Crispy Intestine Snacks
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Despite the fact that this new snack is called “Addictive Intestines,” I’m afraid you won’t find me bingeing a bucket ‘o crispy innards while Netflixing my way through a Saturday night, even though they boast not just one, but two kinds of squicky bits. They do make it easy to pick through the mix for your favorites, though, since the “guts”-flavored ones are light brown, and the “hearts”-flavored ones are the color of…well, they’re the, uh, dark ones.
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A confirmed situation-specific vegetarian, Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Tokyo
“A genuinely gripping crime thriller which wrong-foots and perplexes the reader throughout, drawing us in emotionally . . . Highly recommended.”
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When Detective Kenji Nakamura’s phone rings with the news that his mother’s death wasn’t an accident, his life begins to unravel…read more
May 18, 2019
How Superheros Find Their Perfect Match
I had to laugh when I saw these ads on the subway for the Partner Agent dating service. It features famous manga characters who ordinarily would never meet because they occupy totally different Japanese comic book series. She’s a villain named Doronjo, known for being smart, take-charge, and vain. He’s an renegade medical mercenary, who goes around using his mad doctor skillz to help the needy.
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Yatterman meets Black Jack!
What he’s thinking: She looks opinionated. I won’t say she’s not my type.
What she’s thinking: He could be a doctor. I bet his salary’s not bad.
What they’re both thinking: Interesting.
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He’s thinking: It’s been over 13 minutes and we haven’t said anything yet.
She’s thinking: It’s been over 13 minutes and he hasn’t said anything yet.
He’s thinking: I’ve got to say something. Anything.
She’s thinking: If he’d just say something.
Him: Did you know that all gorillas have type B blood?
Her: Really?
He’s thinking: Of all the things I could have said, why did I have to say that?
She’s thinking: How was I supposed to answer that?
The dating service says: If you’re not good at making conversation, consult with our marriage concierge.
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Because she has no talent for superhero matchmaking, Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Tokyo
“I just couldn’t put it down…a ‘must read’.”
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A young woman dressed as a Gothic Lolita is found dead in a car with a pair of strangers. But the more Yumi Hata learns about her friend’s death, the more she’s convinced it was murder…read more
April 19, 2019
Azalea Pilgrimage 2019
I know you’re exhausted after elbowing your way through the crazy crowds instagramming the cherry blossoms, which is why you should take a deep breath and go see the azaleas. Like cherry blossoms, the all-flowers-all-the-time spectacle will knock your socks off, but unlike the famous fluffy things, you can enjoy them in blissful near-solitude. Here are my favorite places to bask in the floral glow, with tips for how to ensure you’re enjoying them ALL BY YOURSELF.
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This is the most restorative of the azalea gardens. An easy stroll from Komagome Station, the 88 views from famous poems deliver an excellent dose of serenity along with shots of azalea goodness.
RIKUGI-EN GARDEN
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Rikugi-en is one of the most serene gardens in Tokyo, but from mid-April to mid-May, blazing spots of color pop up amid the greenery
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“Azalea Mountain” is across the pond, beyond my favorite bridge
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You can climb up through the crazy colors…
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…and from the peak, you can pretend that all your base are belong to us
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As you can see, even while the “mountain” is in full bloom, the shadier parts of the garden still have colorful surprises in store. If you’re too late for the hill display, you’ll still find pockets of delight amid the green
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As April wends its way toward May, the riot of color on the hillside gives way to the manicured bushes around the pond
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Which, as you can see, are spectacular in a whole different way
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You might even luck into some local butterflies enjoying the pinkness
Open: Every day, 9:00-17:00
Admission: ¥300
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This next one is also an easy walk (from Hibiya, Nijubashi-mae or Otemachi Stations) and if you’re there in the morning when it opens, you’ll be shocked and amazed that for the first half hour, you’ll be so alone with the splendor, you’ll be tempted to grab the arms of complete strangers to say, “Can you believe this?”
NI NO MARU, Imperial Palace East Garden
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Most inviting place to sit in all of Tokyo
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Wherever you are, you’re surrounded by color
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This little garden is filled with hedges that look like abstract paintings made with flowers. Most of the year, the Imperial Palace gardens are totally missable, but during azalea season, you have to GO.
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For sheer “paved with color” perfection, you can’t miss at this small but lovely spot that’s in the “downstairs” part of the Imperial Palace East Gardens
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The banks of bushes snake around green lawns…
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…and little islands of not-blooming, so the colors look even more vivid in contrast
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No matter what season I go, Ni-no-maru Garden is one of the most uncrowded I’ve seen in Tokyo. If you wait patiently, you can easily get pix with no people in them
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Even the parts that aren’t solid color are just beautiful
[image error]The first azaleas to bloom are the red ones, the last are white. At any one time, several colors are in full riot, but the mix changes every day.
Open: 9:00-17:00, closed Mondays & Fridays
Admission: Free
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This next one takes a little more effort to get to, but as you can see, you can lose yourself in the shoulder-high maze of azaleas, and it’s never crowded, even at peak bloom. As a bonus, the non-blooming parts of this spacious park deliver hours of relaxing strolling, with snap-worthy views around every corner.
JINDAI BOTANICAL PARK
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The azaleas at Jindai are surrounded by equally beautiful trees, which makes for nice pictures
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They’re next to a lake too
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So inviting!
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My favorite thing about the Jindai azaleas is that they’re huge. You can walk around among them and be totally surrounded by wildly blooming hills of flowers
Open: 9:30-17:00
Admission: ¥500
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SHIOFUNE KANNON-JI TEMPLE
This one is a day trip (it’s out in Ome, about an hour and a half train ride from Shinjuku), but as you can see, wow. And even if the trails are infested with fellow azalea-oglers, you barely notice them amid the sheer scale of this bowl-o-color-puffs.
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This place is HUGE. It’s like the Nezu Shrine on steroids
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As you wend your way to the top, there are nice views of the benevolent Kannon who raises a blessing hand over the polka-dotted hillsides
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Various colors of azaleas pop in and out of season for about two weeks
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Everywhere you look, giant pompoms
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Hiking paths climb through a bloomy wonderland…
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…until you reach the top, where you can soak in 360 degrees of azalea goodness. By the way, this photo was taken at close to “full bloom” – we don’t live in Photoshop Heaven where all of them hit maximum eyepop at the same time, but they’re still way cool. This photo was taken on a super crowded day, but you barely realize other people are there. Note the ant-like swarm at the bottom of the hill near the temple building – they couldn’t spoil the view if they tried!
To get there, plug your nearest station into the Train Finder or download a free Japan Travel mobile app to your phone (I use Navitime Japan Travel) with Kabe Station as the destination.Getting to Shiofunekannon-ji Temple without a car takes about 1.5 hours by train, then it’s about a 35-minute walk to the temple entrance. Or you can take a bus from the station – the one bound for Nishi-Tokyo Danshi – and walk 10 minutes from the Shiofune Kannon-iriguchi bus stop.
Open: 8:00-17:00
Admission: ¥300
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This one is closer to Tokyo (a ten-minute walk from Tachikawa Station) and while the size of its azalea display is modest, they bloom at the same time as the tulips. Which are (scroll down!) boggling.
SHOWA KINEN PARK
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The best azalea display is right near the Tachikawa entrance, at the big fountain.
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A magnificent multicolored hedge completely surrounds the fountain…
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…and somehow they manage to get all the colors blooming at the same time
It’s a long way to go just to see the azaleas, it’s such a big park, there’s a lot more to enjoy than just what’s famously in season. For example, here’s what’s happening in another part of Showa Kinen Park in the month of April:
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There’s a big section by the “Serpentine” river that is planted in tulips, and it’s in constant bloom from early April until early May. This picture was taken on the same day as the azalea photos. More on this floral extravaganza here.
Hours: 9:30-17:00
Admission: ¥410
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NEZU SHRINE
And finally, this. I’m putting it last, even though it’s easy to get to (from Nezu and Sendagi Stations) because it does attract cherry blossom-like crowds. But if you’re waiting outside the little gate when it opens, you can usually enjoy a good twenty minutes before the ravening hordes and tour groups arrive.
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In full glory, April 19, 2018
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Amazing, right?
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With the big torii gate at the entrance
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How do they get them to bloom like this?
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The added bonus of seeing the azaleas at the Nezu Shrine is that you can also walk through their tunnel of torii gates.
Open: Every day, 9:00-17:00
Admission: ¥200
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While recovering from the arduous task of hunting azaleas, Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Tokyo
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When Detective Kenji Nakamura’s phone rings with the news that his mother’s death wasn’t an accident, his life begins to unravel…read more
April 13, 2019
Subway Manners…For Ghosts
In case you aren’t familiar with the traditional Japanese bugaboos in the above illustration, the umbrella monster is known to spread terror (or at least disgust) by sneaking up on people and licking them with its oily tongue, and the long-necked woman’s head is able to roam about freely on its own, biting small animals and generally scaring the pants off folks with ordinary necks
I’m afraid this subway manners poster isn’t going to do much to convince Things That Go Bump In The Night to stop harassing passengers – in fact, it’ll probably infuriate them to learn that they are merely as annoying as a wet umbrella or an overstuffed backpack, thus triggering a supernatural reign of terror.
Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
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Jonelle Patrick is well-acquainted with Japanese monsters, because she writes novels set in Tokyo
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In the wake of a deadly earthquake, fans erupt in a frenzy of mourning when it’s discovered that their favorite pop star is among the dead. But when Detective Kenji Nakamura is sent to investigate a death at a local shrine, he finds evidence that suggests the impossible: How could the head priest have been murdered by…read more
April 3, 2019
The Best Places To See Pink Rivers of Cherry Blossom Petals
Photo thanks to the Hikawa Shrine Facebook page, which (thanks to their position right on the banks of the Shingashi River in Kawagoe) got the pink river timing perfect (unlike, uh, moi)
The leaves are greening, hangovers cured, blue tarps furled, the madness over. Right? Wrong! Because as soon as the petals begin to fall, it’s hana-ikada season: “rafts of flowers” that float atop cherry tree-lined bodies of water, turning them into pink rivers!
It’s a little trickier to catch the magic of the fallen petals than it might seem, because ideally you time it so enough have fallen to make the water pink, but enough are still on the trees to make it look like they’re still in full bloom too.
And if it rains…
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…the water is flowing too quickly…
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…and the petals are swept swiftly downstream instead of gathering on the surface
And if you’re too early…
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…you catch the trees in full bloom (although since it’s obviously not the most teeth-gnashing of fails, I don’t expect much sympathy!)
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But just a few days later, those trees drop their petals to float atop the super-famous acres of pink moat at Hirosaki Castle in Aomori prefecture (Photo thanks to the Hirosaki Tourism & Convention Bureau, who didn’t have to (sob!) race back to Tokyo just as the pink showers were beginning)
But let’s find some spots closer to home – here are my favorite places to glimpse this rarified form of pinkomania in Tokyo.
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IMPERIAL PALACE MOAT (CHIDORI-GA-FUCHI)
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The good old Imperial Palace moat between Kudanshita and Hanzōmon stations delivers a serpentine hall runner of pinkness, if not a wall-to-wall carpet
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All along the shore, the veil grows…
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…as layer upon layer of petals fall, each day pinker than before
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Near the Hanzōmon end of the moat, this fountain becomes a little oasis of pink too (also, an illustration of the evergreen maxim that “Some days you are the pigeon, and some days you are the statue.”)
The pink moat & fountain photos were taken in area 1
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MEGURO RIVER (NAKAMEGURO)
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I’ve yet to glimpse the Meguro River near Nakameguro station in a state of blissful blush…
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…but you can see its potential in this photo, where the fallen petals have caught in the eddies. I’m told that if you luck into a period of no rain, it does become a delightful river of pink
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SHOWA KINEN PARK
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Sometimes you chance across spontaneous pink river things happening at spots you didn’t expect it – this park isn’t famous for rivers of pinkness, but it’s lovely when it happens and the trees are still blooming along the banks, don’t you think?
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JINDAI BOTANICAL GARDENS
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I chanced across this one while strolling through my favorite botanical garden, and thought that the green and pink together were super nice.
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And even though this “river” is dry, the drifts of petals near the 300-year-old cherry trees really illustrate that “pink snow” thing that haiku poets are so fond of
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As a bonus, as I walked back toward Chofu Station, the cobbles in the sidewalk were outlined in pink
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IMPERIAL PALACE MOAT NEAR TAKEBASHI STATION
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And speaking of “pink snow,” even if you don’t get to see a river covered in petals, sitting among the falling blossoms on a warm spring day is pretty heavenly. My favorite place is this one, next to the moat encircling the Imperial Palace, near Takebashi Station
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My favorite spot for enjoying falling pink snow is area 3
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When not viewing the world through cherry petal-colored glasses, Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Tokyo during cherry blossom season
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A young woman dressed as a Gothic Lolita is found dead in a car with two strangers. But the more Yumi Hata learns about her friend’s death, the more she’s convinced it was murder…read more
April 1, 2019
The Scourge Of The Orange Jacket
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Okay, I know you think I’m a whiner because I went off on this guy wearing an orange jacket, sitting right in the middle of a shot I wanted to take during cherry blossom season at Shinjuku Gyōen. I mean, one guy, minding his own business – so what if his head’s inside his phone instead of looking around at the incredible clouds of beauteous pinkitude and noticing that other people (okay, me) might want to take a photo without HIM AND HIS ORANGE JACKET smack in the middle of it?
I’m not saying you’re not entitled to your opinion, but this orange jacket pestilence, I swear, it’s not just real, it’s everywhere!
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No matter how far you travel (on an all-day bus tour to Hanamiyama in Fukushima, for example)…
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…no matter what the weather (way the freakin’ freak in northiest Aomori-ken)…
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…there are people wearing ORANGE JACKETS. I mean, did you even notice the thousand-year-old cherry tree in the background? Not before your attention was hijacked by those two jacketbombers in front of it, I bet
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Sometimes there are whole families of them
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Sometimes they travel in packs
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And they obviously paid no attention to the travel advisory about confining the mayhem to cherry blossom season
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You’d think the tulips at Showa Kinen Park could hold their own, but no
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The real pros surf the circuit, ruining photos at Unesco World Heritage sites in the off-season
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Pushers of orange jackets set up shop distressingly close to known flower-viewing sites
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And tragically enough, you’re never too young to begin the training
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When not ranting maniacally about subjects of grave import, Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Tokyo
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A young woman dressed as a Gothic Lolita is found dead in a car with two strangers. But the more Yumi Hata learns about her friend’s death, the more she’s convinced it was murder…read more
March 6, 2019
Hacking Hanami: How To Get Yourself Invited To A Cherry Blossom Party
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Kicking back under clouds of pink blossoms in the warm spring sun, eating a picnic and drinking with friends – it’s something you always dreamed of doing in Japan, isn’t it? And then you get here, and you discover that unless you’re a member of a work group that puts on a hanami party, you’ll be pressing your nose against the glass from the outside, looking in.
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Unless you’ve been making fart jokes together since sixth grade, you won’t get an invite to this kind of cherry blossom crazy
Sadly, all those happy Japanese faces toasting each other under the trees belong to people who went to high school together or belong to the same running club or played soccer on the same team in sixth grade. And if you weren’t one of them then, you never will be.
But all is not lost! Here are three ways to live the dream:
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Yoyogi Park: cherry blossom party central
1: Organize your own
And when I say organize, I mean organize. In advance.
1: Pick a date. Here’s where to check the forecast for when peak bloom is going to be in your region: https://sakura.weathermap.jp/en.php
2: Pick a location. The craziest parties in Tokyo are at Inokashira Park and Yoyogi Park. The most beautiful are in Shinjuku Gyouen (but they don’t allow alcohol past the gate, and they definitely search and confiscate, so be forewarned). As a general rule, parks that charge admission don’t allow picnicking or blue tarps (Shinjuku Gyouen being the exception).
3: Invite your friends. Call your other hanami party outcasts and reap their thanks and glee. (Japanese friends might say yes if they don’t have another party to go to, but your best bet is to invite other foreigners.)
4: Make food/drink assignments unless you want to provide it all yourself. Don’t count on buying anything in the park, even if they have a snack stand. Lines are long, prices astronomical. Bring all your drinks and snacks with you. Grilling and such is not allowed, so anything that can be eaten cold is good. Don’t underestimate how much people can drink. Seriously. It’s really all there is to do, once you get situated.
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The traditional junk foods of cherry blossom season
5: Buy a blue tarp for everyone to sit on. You can get one at your local convenience store.
6: Get there early. Many Japanese partiers go the night before, spread their blue tarps on the choicest real estate, and camp overnight, just sayin.’ You don’t have to do this, but if you don’t want to get stuck in a corner of the garden where no trees are blooming, early means “get in line that morning, before the park opens.”
7: Make sure everyone you’ve invited knows where to look for you, especially if you don’t end up where you’d hoped to be. Cell towers get swamped, and calls often fail to get through once partying starts in earnest.
8: Crack a beer, and get ready to survive, I mean enjoy, your cherry blossom party!
If you want some suggestions for great places to see the pink extravaganza (and have your party), here are my favorite spots, with maps!
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You might run across a group that welcomes anyone who wants to participate, like these slackliners in Yoyogi Park. This kind of gathering is (obvs) BYOB, (plus enough to share) so come prepared
2: Wing it
If you want to roll the dice instead of being the host with the most, you might still be able to get a seat on a blue tarp.
1: Buy a six-pack of decent beer (i.e. not the cheapest brews at the 7-11)
2: Wait until 11:00 or so, when parties are well underway.
3: Walk through the hanami park of your choice, looking for people you distantly know and/or expansively drunk foreigner groups who seem welcoming to you (and your beer).
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3: Snag an advance ticket to an excellent sho-chu and craft beer hanami party
Every year, my friend Mac (of Maction Planet private tour group fame) organizes a killer craft beer and artisanal sho-chu party in Yoyogi Park. If you manage to snag one of the limited number of tickets, you’ll be able to skip all that pesky organizing and still be guaranteed a choice spot under the fluffy pink things. Plus, you’ll get premium craft beer on tap, all the sho-chu you can drink (poured by world-renowned expert Chris Pellegrini), and a chance to hang out with a very funny and knowledgeable guy and make new friends. Once you’ve got a base in the park, you can kick back on the prime location blue tarp and watch the world go by, or you can wander through the park, beer/sho-chu in hand, and check out the craziness elsewhere. Here’s the link, for 2019 details and ticket ordering!
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Of course, to truly live the dream, you can sip your fine brew amid the pinkness while reading a novel set in Tokyo during cherry blossom season
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A young woman dressed as a Gothic Lolita is found dead in a car with two strangers. But the more Yumi Hata learns about her friend’s death, the more she’s convinced it was murder…read more
March 5, 2019
Soft Drink Flavors I Do Not Want To Try
In the scraping-the-bottom-of-the-flavor-idea-barrel sweepstakes, a clear winner. As if banana-flavored soda isn’t nauseating enough, they paired it with that nasty sour-milk yogurt flavor for good measure
This yogurt-banana mash-up surfs in on the enduring popularity of the local favorite soft drink, Calpis, which inexplicably established sweetened sour milk as a delightful flavor in Japan.
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In a close second, peach-flavored Coke. Even if the western peach flavor in any way resembled a real peach, the combination with Coke’s cola flavor in no way improves it
Peach Coke is just a blatant season grab. Here, eating “seasonal” fruits and vegetables delivers wave after wave of short-term binge buying on the part of consumers, and since there is no “cola” season, Coke wanted to cash in on that.
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Yes, it’s a drink made from aloe, that prickly succulent you keep around to rub on burns
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Let’s get a closer look at that appetizing ingredient, shall we?
And aloe, eek. How many times have Japanese friends vehemently assured me that slimy foods are essential for health? I supposed that number is about the same number of times I’ve weaseled out of eating stinky fermented soybeans and the hair-in-slime seaweed known as mozuku.
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While sipping strange Japanese soft drinks, Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Tokyo
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In the wake of a deadly earthquake, fans erupt in a frenzy of mourning when it’s discovered that their favorite pop star is among the dead. But when Detective Kenji Nakamura is sent to investigate a death at a local shrine, he finds evidence that suggests the impossible: How could the head priest have been murdered by…read more
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