Elizabeth Minchilli's Blog, page 6

Truffle Bruschetta

Truffles are one of those things you either love or hate. If you hate them, then you don’t have much of a problem. Just don’t eat them. But if you love them there are all sorts of hurdles to go through. First of all fresh truffles are intensely seasonal, appearing in very specific places for a very brief period during the year. They also start to lose their intense aroma and taste almost the minute they are harvested. So you either have to get yourself to the region where they appear, or else get those little buggers to you. Both expensive options which partly account for their high cost. Truffle Bruschetta

But if you do get yourself to Italy, or even want to indulge in some truffle consumption, here are a few tips to help you achieve your goals:

-Truffle oil: Just say no. This applies to anywhere, at any time. Truffle oil is not your friend. 99.9% of the time it has absolutely no truffle in it, but is just a chemically generated facsimile. And while it might smell good at first, it almost always has a weird and funky aftertaste.-Truffles in jars: In Umbria and other regions like Piedimonte and Abruzzo, truffle consumption is not the precious ‘bring it to your table and weigh it’ kind of experience. Truffles are often processed into sauces, along with wild mushrooms, and often preserved in jars. These sauces find their way not only onto pasta, but onto pizza and crostini as well. Although slightly more expensive than other dishes, it is not going to break your budget.-Buying Truffles – Since fresh truffles are an agricultural item, in theory you can’t bring any back home with you if you are traveling to the USA. You can, however, stock up on jarred or packaged truffles. I mentioned the sauces above, but you will also see whole truffles, in jars, that are packed in a water and salt mixture. Another option is ‘carpaccio’ of truffles, thin slices packed in olive oil.-Truffled Stuff – One of the most delicious truffled delicacies is Pecorino al Tartufo. Small rounds of sheep milk cheese are flecked with dark bits of truffle that infuse the entire cheese with their earthy flavor. And if you see boar sausages with truffle? Buy them. Many types of salami are flavored with truffle, but in my opinion the marriage between boar and truffle is the best. Another of my favorite treats is truffle honey. Slivers of truffle are suspended in yellow honey, infusing it with a heavenly aroma and taste that pairs perfectly with aged pecorino

When I was in Abruzzo last week my friend Marino gave me a wonderful little jar of truffle carpaccio. Rather than save it for some ‘special’ occasion, I decided to crack open the jar and use it right away. The little jar was so packed with flavor that I was able to stretch it to three dinners for Domenico and me. The trick with these truffles is not to cook or heat them (like fresh truffles). Instead you want to gently layer them on top of something warm, so that the aroma wafts up, while the taste is not harmed by heat.

Fried eggs is an obvious choice, especially when you have great farmer’s market eggs.

I have a few more truffle recipes here, here and here since up in Umbria truffles are very easy to come by.

But my preferred option when I have a jar of truffle carpaccio  is Truffle Bruschetta, recipe below. You can find out more about the truffle carpaccio I used here. I’m not 100% sure they will ship to the states, but I figure if enough of you write to him he’ll figure it out.    They also have a lot of other great products.

PrintTruffle Bruschetta

Sorry but it’s hard to advise on quantities for a recipe like this. As many bruschette as you make will get eaten. I usually make 2 per person.

IngredientsFresh loaf of good breadOlive oilGarlicSaltTruffle carpaccio like this one.Instructions

Slice the bread into half inch slices and gently toast over a fire or in the toaster.

While still warm run with a clove of garlic, drizzle with olive oil. Layer a few truffles on top and top with a bit of flaky sea salt and black pepper if you’d like.

Interested in eating more truffles? That can be arranged. We always include a truffle day during our Week in Umbria Tour.

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Grilled Portobello Mushrooms

The best new edition to my local farmer’s market was the opening of a mushroom stand. Mushrooms are just not that big a part of Roman cooking, so it’s often difficult to find anything other than the regular white mushrooms during most of the year. Yes, we have a brief moment of wild porcini, and sometimes I can find cardoncelli from Puglia but they are for special occasions. Grilled portobello mushrooms seemed just a dream…

I was always so envious when I went to England or other northern countries and saw stands selling all sorts of cultivated mushrooms. Finally, a source landed in Rome. Not only do they always have various cultivated mushrooms, they also have whatever else is currently in season in the wild. Last week they actually had chanterelles! A real treat.

Anyway I usually get their big fat juicy mushrooms to make these Grilled Portobellos  and so I thought I’d share how I usually cook them.

PrintGrilled Portobello MushroomsIngredients2 Portobello Mushrooms per personSoy sauceBalsamic VinegarOregano or thymeSaltPepperCrushed garlic (about 1 clove per every 2 mushrooms)chopped parsleyolive oilInstructionsBrush off any dirt from the mushrooms.In a flat dish big enough to hold the mushrooms pour in soy sauce, balsamic vinegar, herbs and seasoning. Mix and taste. It should be salty/sweet.Place the mushrooms in the marinade and use your hands to make sure they get coasted, spooning some of the marinade into the gills. Let sit for about 20 minutes. Not much longer since they will get too soggy.Preheat a grill pan and coat with olive oil. Place the mushrooms on the grill in one layer, and let cook at medium high heat. Flip over and continue cooking. I usually use the spatula to press them down, allowing them to get really browned.You can eat them as it, or, if you like, pretend they are a burger and serve on a bun with condiments of your choice.

 

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Tomato, Pancetta + Mascarpone Pasta

One of my all time favorite recipes is by one of my all time favorite – and oldest – friends. The thing is I was making Evan Kleiman’s Tomato, Pancetta and Mascarpone Pasta  before I even met Evan, over 20 years ago. Like a lot of other American’s cooking Italian food in the 1980’s I had a copy of Evan’s Pasta Fresca next to my Marcella Hazan. The fact that it is now faded and falling apart shows the love. Her easy to follow, straightforward and authentic recipes have become  standards.

But the all time family favorite is her Salsa Cremosa di Mascarpone e Pancetta Affumicata (Creamy Sauce with Bacon ) or, as we call it, “That Evan pasta with the mascarpone”. When the kids were little and we would spend the entire summer up in Umbria, this was the go to pasta since I knew that it would be gobbled up by both adults AND kids. Over the years I made a few tweaks, and substituted regular pancetta or guanciale for her smoked version. I also always used short pasta – preferably wagon wheels or bowtie – instead of fresh fettuccine.

With the ‘kids’ back home for two weeks, it was of course at the top of their request list. And since so many people asked for the recipe I thought I’d share my version of it here. And apologies for the mediocre photos. I wasn’t planning on sharing them! This is just family dinner.

PrintTomato, Pancetta and Marscarpone Pasta

Prep 10 mins

Cook 20 mins

Total 30 mins

Yield 4-5

Ingredients1 small onion, finely diced1/2 tsp saltFreshly ground black pepper3 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil1/4 pound / 150 grams pancetta or guanciale, cubed3 cups tomato puree1 pound / 500 grams pasta (I like wagon wheel or farfalle)8 ounces / 250 grams mascarponeBasil (about 1/2 cup leaves)Grated parmigianoInstructions

In a large saute pan cook the onion in the olive oil over low heat with salt and pepper. Cook until soft, but not browned. Add the chopped pancetta and let it cook over medium heat until it color, but you don’t want it to become crisp or browned.

Add the tomatoes and cook until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes.

Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and add to the saute pan with the sauce and toss over very low heat. Turn off the heat and add the mascarpone, and stir to combine until the cheese melts and the sauce turns orange. Add the basil and serve with grated parmigiano on the table.

You can find out more about Evan Kleiman here. And if you’d like to join Evan and me in Italy we usually do at least one tour together each year. Our next one is in June, in Abruzzo. I’m sure I’ll be adding more. You can find the full schedule of tours here, and make sure you are signed up for the Premium version of my newsletter since I always announce new tours there first (they sell out fast)

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Plum Cake

Last year I had all the time in the world not only to bake and cook, but also to make videos about it. Which, I can tell you, takes a LOT of time to organize. But since we had no house guests and I had no work, time wasn’t a problem.

This year, thankfully, things are different. Not only am I gearing up for a fall full of tours (finally!) I also have a house full of guests. Sophie and Emma are both here with their friends so while we have to figure out three meals a day, I’d actually rather spend my time hanging out with all of them, than in the kitchen cooking. So quick and easy is my mantra.

Yesterday, while doing my laps in the pool at 6:30pm I realized that we didn’t have dessert for dinner. (I admit it, thinking about food gets me through my laps). The following recipe for Plum Cake was ready in the time it took me to pre-heat the oven on my way to take a shower, and then bake it while grilling meat. It’s that easy.

The recipe is one I make all year long and is a classic of Marcella Hazan. I first made Farm Wife’s Pear Tart in my little apartment in Florence in 1987. That was probably the last time I stuck to the original recipe. Marcella’s recipe calls for pears and cinnamon. But really any fruit will do, and over the years I usually use apples because that is the most likely fruit to be sitting on my counter waiting for me to eat.

But last night’s version hit new heights and I very much recommend it while plums are in season. Yes, you have to take the pit out of the plums, but it’s fast work. I used a mixture of of two types I bought at the farmers’ market. One was a type called Moyer I think, with a tart green flesh. The other were super ripe almost black , with a deep crimson flesh that tasted like berries. But really, any plum will do. (I’ll probably make it with apricots I bought yesterday that I’m sure no one will eat.)

The main tweaks to the original recipe I made this time around was to use whole wheat flour. I also subbed half of the regular sugar with Demerara sugar, and used more sprinkled on top, which gave it a nice crackle.

The recipe is one you should definitely have on hand, for last minute dessert emergencies. And if you are like me you probably have been buying more summer fruit that you can possibly eat, so this takes care of that problem too. Let me know if you make it, and how you made it your own!

PrintPlum Cake

Prep 20 mins

Cook 45 mins

Total 1 hour, 5 mins

Yield 8

I used plums but feel free to use any fruit you’d like. It’s a very forgiving, and rustic, recipe. And don’t worry if the batter seems mostly fruit. That is the way it’s supposed to be. Don’t forget to dot it with butter. I often forget and it’s much better with!

Ingredients2 eggs1/4 cup milk1/2 cup sugar1/2 cup Demerara sugar plus 2 tablespoons 
1/4 tsp saltGrated zest from 1 lemon (optional)
1.5 cups whole wheat flour
2 pounds plums, pitted and quartered
a 9 inch round cake pan or spring form pan
1/4 cup / 50 grams butter (plus more for greasing pan)InstructionsPreheat oven to 375F/180CButter and flour your plan, and cover the bottom with a round of parchment. This isn’t 100% necessary, but it does make sure the cake doesn’t stick. 

Beat the eggs and milk together in a bowl. Add sugar, salt and beat.Add flour and lemon zest, mixing it well. This batter will be very thick. 

Add the fruit to the batter, mixing gently but well. It will seem like it is mostly plums, which it is. That’s ok.

Put batter into pan, leveling it off with the back of a spoon.Dot with bits of butter, pushing them into the batter with your finger. Sprinkle the top of the cake with about 3 tablespoons of Demerara sugar.
Bake for about 45 minutes, or until top is lightly browned. Let cool before running a knife around the edge to get out of pan. Although it is a very moist cake, a scoop of vanilla ice cream doesn’t hurt.

 

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Where to eat in Ortigia, Sicily

Like many small towns that thrive on tourism, Ortigia (the small town that is part of Siracusa in Sicily)  has some good restaurants, but also some so-so places. After much research (I do it for you!) here are my favorite spots.

I know there are a lot of other places in Ortigia. If they aren’t listed here it means that I’ve either been there and decided you shouldn’t, or else I haven’t been there yet. In any case, if you have places you’d like to share, I’d love to hear about them. I’m going back in few months and I’d love to check them out.

Macalle – For some reason this restaurant is always described as a ‘bistrot’. I’m not quite sure what that means, but it’s definitely on the ‘modern’ side and serves some of the best food in the city. Incredibly fresh fish, cooked, as they describe it themselves ‘Nonna’s recipes revisited in a contemporary way’. Which always ends up being exactly what I feel like eating.

Bar Condorelli – Condorelli is known for it’s torrone which can be found all over Italy. Their namesake bar in Ortigia is in the main piazza and sitting there, you feel as if you are in the middle of an opera set. While I often stop by for a morning or afternoon coffee, I can never resist one of their almond cookies. But what I really love are their granita. My favorite is to stop by for breakfast for a almond / coffee mix, with a still warm brioche. Also a great spot for aperitivi.

Apollonion – This tiny fish restaurant is 100% fish. They do have a menu, but most people just order the multi course fixed menu that just keeps going and going and going. It’s delicious and includes everything from oysters to fried fish to seafood to roasted fish to dessert. Also? It’s fun!

Gutkowskino – I love the small restaurant at the Hotel Gutkowski. The modern market driven menu is small, but changes weekly. Fish of course, but also lots of veggies. You can also come for a drink, which is what I do when staying at the hotel.

Antica Giudecca – Fast food Ortigia style. When I can’t decide if I really want to eat dinner or not, after a full day, I head here for a perfect arancini. And if I’m still hungry they always have something else, like fried calamari or baked pasta.

Enoteca Solaria – I love this enoteca which specializes in natural wines from all over Italy. Their prices are great, as is the food (mostly crostini and the like).

Mercato di Ortigia – If you are lucky enough to have a kitchen to cook in, or even if you just want to snack, make sure to visit the market, which takes place every morning until about 1:30. There are several stands that also sell prepared food, including the two below.

Caseificio Borderi – Make sure you save time and stomach space for at least one panino made by Andrea at Caseificio Borderi. Don’t try to tell him what you want, just let him do his thing (which you can see here). Be forewarned: they are HUGE. The last time I was there I could only manage to eat half. But I saved the other half, and took it to the airport to eat before getting on the plane. I was very happy. Located in the market.

Fratelli Burgio – This salumeria has been in the market of Ortigia for generations. The last time I was there it was closed up, but I just read that they have re-opened just down the street, near the port. They are known for their incredible tagliere, tasting boards full of cured meats, cheeses, and cured vegetables and fish. Like little works of art.

Pasticceria Artale – Old fashioned bar that retains its original 1950s vibe. Great pastries and coffee.

Cortile Verga– This cocktail bar is set in the incredibly romantic courtyard of a 16th century palace. The cocktails are superb! Very creative but not overly so. Great nibbles too.

La Foglia (Via Capodieci, 21, 96100 Siracusa SR) – I’ve been going to this quirky restaurant for about 20 years. The decor is…original. It’s filled with mismatched furniture, old dolls (for real) and very personal collection of paintings and sculpture. I’ve always eaten extraordinarily well here, but it’s hard to describe. It’s sort of like eating in someone’s home. Everything feels made with love. We always order the orange salad, and whatever other vegetables they have. One of the best pasta alla norma’s I’ve ever had. The menu changes all the time but the nice thing is that you can always find vegetarian dishes.

If you’d like to join us in Sicily you can! Sophie and I lead 2 – 3 Week-long tours a year here. You can read all about it here

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Where to Eat in Parma

I was up in Parma last month and of course ate well. As I tend to do. But here’s the funny thing about Parma: eating well is not always easy or obvious. The better restaurants tend to be outside of Parma itself, which is maybe ok for lunch, but for dinner it’s nice to be able to walk somewhere, right?

Anyways, here is my list of favorite places, some of which we’ll be visiting with our tour in November. If you have any favorites that I haven’t included, please add them in the comments!

Ristorante Cocchi My happy place: Ristorante Cocchi, located just outside of town (but you can walk if you’d like) in an anonymous hotel, is (in my humble opinion) the best restaurant in Parma. Don’t miss the Bollito Misto which is extraordinary. And if you can’t decide which stuffed pasta to get, you can order the Tris: a tasting of three different kinds.

Officina Alimentare Dedicata – Lovely casual trattoria run by 3 women (that’s always a good thing). The menu changes all the time, but tends towards the classics (it’s heavy). Start with a big board of prosciutto and order more torta fritta than you think you’ll need. And definitely don’t miss the home made giardiniera which comes to the table in it’s own cute little jar.

Tra L’uss e l’asa This tiny spot run by Lorenzo and Laura is in theory a panino place, but in reality serves some of the best food in the city. We had an amazing cheese platter served with home made giardiniera, preserved artichokes, preserved eggplant and home made onion jam. One of my favorite places in town.

Osteria Virgilio The perfect little trattoria that you always hope to find. Make sure to get prosciutto to start – it’s extraordinary. And any of the pastas will make you swoon. It’s very very small, so make sure you reserve. In nice weather they have more tables outside, in the very cute piazza.

Frank Focaccia – Everyone loves Frank Focaccia. This lively place makes one thing and one thing only: small round focaccia baked freshly in their special oven then stuffed with almost anything you’d like.

Pepen – Historic panino place, take away only. Their most famous sandwich is the one with is stuffed with horse meat tartare. It was amazing. But if that’s not your thing, no worries, they have about 20 other items.

Casa Ducato – Birre del Ducato is one of my favorite craft beers and they have a small place in the center of town, Casa Ducato, where you can not only have their beer, but very good food as well.

Osteria del 36 One of the oldest restaurants in Parma, tucked into a small side street in the center of town. Great classic food in a sweet cozy setting.

Tabarro If you are in Parma then you will most likely begin and end your nights here: Enoteca Tabarro. This tiny wine bar is not only special because of its natural wines, but mostly because of the totally charming owner Diego Sorba.

Ciacco Gelato – Not only the best gelateria in Parma, one of the best in Italy. Extraordinary attention to ingredients and you can always find innovative (and delicious) flavors using things like fresh ricotta. I tried red bell pepper gelato last time and loved it.

Caffe Cavour – I love this old fashioned, slightly fancy, coffee place for it’s frescoed ceilings and people watching from the outdoor terrace. Since they also are a bakery, the pastries are fresh and delicious.

Angiol D’Or – Located right in front of the Duomo, with a great view, this elegant place serves pitch perfect traditional recipes.

PS:
Both Trattoria Corrieri and Trattoria Tribunale are famous, show up in all the guides, are located right in the center, and are pretty bad. They may have been good at one point, but now they just churn out food for tourists.

If you’d like to learn more about the food that comes from this part of the world – Parmigiano Reggiano, Balsamico Tradizionale and Prosciutto – you can read my book Eating My Way Through Italy.

We also lead tours to Parma as well as other regions in Italy.

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Ricotta & Pea Pasta

Ricotta is my secret weapon when I don’t know what to cook. If you have a good tub of ricotta you can add almost anything to it and either schmear it on bruschetta (dinner!) or put it on pasta (dinner!).

Last summer I posted this recipe using zucchini and ricotta and everyone seemed to love it. Since Zucchini season is approaching, I’m sure you’ll get a lot of use out of it. But quickly, before pea season says arrivederci, you can make this springy version, which pairs peas with the ricotta, adding in some fresh mint and lemon zest.

And in case you find the recipe confusing you can watch this video to see how I did it.

You can obviously use any short shape of pasta  you’d like, but for some reason I think peas go with bow ties. Don’t ask me why!

 

PrintPasta with Ricotta & Peas

Yield 4-5

I love this pasta with fresh peas, but you can certainly use frozen. Just add them to the pot frozen. I have also made this with zucchini, in which case just use cubed zucchini or  yellow summer squash.

Ingredients2 cups ricotta1/2 cup grated parmgiano reggiano1 lemon, zest and juice1/4 cup chopped fresh mint1/4 cup olive oil1 small onion, chopped1/2 cup chopped prosciutto3 cups shelled peas1 pound – 500 gram bowtie pastasaltpepperInstructions

In a medium bowl, put the ricotta, grated parmigiano reggiano, lemon zest and mint. Taste and adjust for seasoning. I love a lot of black pepper. Set aside.

In a pan large enough to hold all the drained pasta later, add the olive oil and onions and some salt. Turn heat to medium and slowly soften. You don’t want them to brown. When they have softened turn off the heat and add the prosciutto and stir well. Set aside.

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the pasta and return to boil. After 5 minutes add the peas. Cook until both are done, another 8 minutes or so.

Turn on the heat under the onions to reheat. Drain the pasta and peas reserving a cup of the cooking water.

Add the drained pasta and peas to the onion mixture, along with the cooking water. Stir to combine well.

Turn off the heat and add the ricotta mixture, stirring to combine. Taste and adjust for seasoning. I like to add a squeeze of lemon juice.

For more easy recipes visit my Instagram channel, my YouTube channel or any of my books.

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Sicily with Melissa Clark

Since our Week in Italy Tours for 2022 are almost all sold out, I’ve decided to add another tour to Sicily. March 13-19, 2022 Melissa Clark will be joining me for a Culinary Retreat in Sicily. We’ll be based in a lovely farm near Vittoria where we’ll be cooking, eating and visiting the amazing small towns, wineries and food producers in that part of the world. Our last two nights will be in the ancient town of Ortigia.

I first met Melissa Clark (she of New York Times fame and author of 40 cookbooks) on a limoncello and pizza-fueled trip along the Amalfi coast about 25 years ago. We’ve since traveled all over Italy together, from Piedmont to Sicily,  and have had the great good luck to have collaborated on food tours in Rome and Puglia. We’ve now decided to explore Sicily and have booked ourselves into two of our favorite hotels next March. To eat and drink and – of course – cook!

Would you like to join us?

We will be spending the beginning of our week in a 17th century baglio – walled farm – located in the south east corner of Sicily. Baglio Occhipinti is situated just north of the ancient town of Ragusa. The farm is set within 10 hectares of their own land, including ancient olive groves and the vineyards which make this area famous around the world. There is a huge organic vegetable garden, as well as a herb garden and citrus orchard. We’ll be spending 4 nights here, and will use this as our base to explore the south east corner of Sicily and it’s food culture. Cheese making, chocolate, almonds, olive oil and of course wine. There will be a full day of cooking and evenings full of fun and music. We’ll be visiting the center of Sicilian ceramic traditions, Caltigirone, and visiting one of the most beautiful farms on the island.

We will spend out final 2 nights in one of Sicily’s most romantically beautiful cities: Ortigia the small ancient island off of Siracusa. We will be staying in the Hotel Gutkowski, a small family-run, simple, but charming, 4-star boutique hotel, located near the sea. During our stay in Ortigia will be able to visit the well known market, take a tour of the archeological park and have time to shop.

DETAILS OF CULINARY RETREAT IN SICILY WITH MELISSA CLARK

When: March 13-19, 2022 (6 nights)

Who: This trip is limited to 12 guests

Where: We start our week at Baglio Occhipinti (near Ragusa) and end in Ortigia at the Hotel Gutkowski.

Nearest Airport: Catania, Sicily (International connection through Rome to get here)

What: The days will be full, with adventures both in and out of our hotels. But don’t worry, you’ll have some down time as well, to relax.

Some of the things we’ll be doing:

Cooking class with MelissaCheese making on a farmSeaside dinnerVisits to the wineries of COS and Arianna OcchipintiLunch at the famous Duomo Restaurant in RagusaChocolate making in ModicaVisit to Ceramic Maker & shopping

There is lots more of course, and if you’d like to hear about the details, just send me an email. The trip is filling up fast (I announced it first in my newsletter last week) , but we still have a few spaces left. Hope you can join us!!

If you’d like to hear about the details, just send me an email. The trip is filling up fast but we still have a few spaces left. Hope you can join us!!

For the full list of our current tours visit this page.

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3-Day Rome Food Tour

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When I first started leading tours, over a decade ago, Rome was a very different place, as was the food tour business. When I was interviewed by the New York Times in 2013 the author of the article wasn’t even sure if ‘food tours’ were a thing. And when I gave my first tours in Campo dei’ Fiori I was the only one doing it!

And it was in Rome that Sophie and I first launched our Week in Italy tours. We realized that some people wanted more than a morning tour around the market to understand the food culture of Italy. We have gone on to expand out week-long tours to more out of the way regions like Puglia, Sicily and Umbria.

A lot has changed in the last decade in terms of tourism in Italy in general, and Rome in particular. Cities like Venice, Florence and Rome are suffering under the burden of too many visitors (at least pre-2020!) and over-tourism is not something we can encourage . If you read this blog, get my newsletter and follow us on social media, then you already know that Sophie and I are always working to make our tours as low-impact as possible. Not just sustainable, but regenerative. With this in mind we decided to retire our original Week in Rome tours since we felt the city just didn’t need the extra boost in tourism that would be better aimed at other, harder to reach, destinations. Sophie has been working on planning tours to places like Campania and Basilicata, and I’m heading to Abruzzo. All places that desperately need more visitors. And we are happy to take you there!

But we didn’t want to give up on Rome altogether. After a lot of thought and planning, and talking with our friends here in Rome (shop keepers, vegetable vendors, restaurant owners, farmers etc. ) we decided to start offering a tour to Rome that would leave a lighter footprint. “Food in Rome: A 3 Day Tour with Sophie” will take you on a short, but intense, dive into the food culture of Rome. Unlike our other Week-long tours, housing is not included. You are free to book yourself into the hotel or Airbnb that best suits your budget. And rather than spend the entire day, from breakfast until dinner, with us, you are on your own in the evenings. This means that not only is this tour more affordable for a lot of people, it also leaves you time to explore on your own.

How it works
• Each tour is limited to 8 participants
• The tour take place on three consecutive days.
• You will be on your own in the late afternoon & evenings, to enjoy the city on your own. • Accommodations are not included

Dates for 2021 and 2022
• September 14, 15,16 2021
• November 23, 24, 25 2021
• March 16,17,18 2022
• May 17,18,19 2022
• June 14,15,16 2022
Private groups available upon request

Curious? Hungry? Send me an email for the details.

To find out more about the  3-Day Food Tour in Rome with Sophie send me an email

See this page  information about Day Tours in Rome

And for our full schedule of Week in Italy tours in see this page

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Asparagus Carbonara

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I am the first one to admit I am not consistent. For better or worse I am always contradicting myself. So when I say that classic recipes should adhere to time honored traditions, I also say things like “Why not add wild asparagus to Carbonara?”

So while I would never think of adding tomatoes to Carbonara (the horror!) I have zero problem substituting guanciale with asparagus or even zucchini. AND I add onions. While the pasta police might come and arrest me, I am safe in saying that this one is definitely a keeper and might be worth the fine.

I ended up making Asparagus Carbonara mostly out of necessity. We were up in Umbria and I had neither guanciale nor pancetta. I did, however, have some super fresh eggs from the market and barely a handful of just-picked wild asparagus. Feel free to substitute regular asparagus, cut into rounds, or even zucchini when the season changes. Both of these green vegetables complement the egg and cheese combo of carbonara, and also add a colorful touch.

If you’re wondering how the pasta got so yellow it’s because the egg yolks from this farmer are insane. Bright yellow and so rich and silky. Do try and search out the best eggs you can get for this dish. It make a huge difference.

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PrintAsparagus Carbonara

Yield 4-5

Ingredients500 gr/ 1 pound bucatini (or any pasta shape of your choice)1 small shallot or onion, chopped2 tablespoons butter2 tablespoons olive oilHandful of asparagussaltpepper1 1/2 cup grated parmigiano Reggiano1 whole egg4 egg yolksInstructions

Chop the asparagus into bite size pieces, discarding any tough stems. Set aside.

Bring a pot of water to boil, add salt and pasta.

While the pasta is cooking place the butter and olive oil in a pan large enough to hold the drained pasta later. Add the onion, and let soften for a few minutes. Add the asparagus, salt and pepper and stir. Add a ladle full of the pasta cooking water to help the asparagus cook.

In the meantime beat the eggs and cheese together in a small bowl, until creamy. Add freshly ground black pepper.

When the pasta is al dente, drain, reserving 1 cup of pasta water. Add the drained pasta to the pan with the asparagus, along with the water. Stir over heat to finish cooking the pasta.

Take off heat (this is important so the eggs don’t scramble) and add the cheese egg mixture, stirring well to combine. It should become creamy.

NOTE: This recipe contains raw eggs, so if you have issues with this then the recipe probably isn’t for you.

For more recipes from my kitchen see my book The Italian Table

And if you’d like to come cooking (and eating ) with me in Italy, my full list of tours are here.

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