Where to eat in Ortigia, Sicily
Like many small towns that thrive on tourism, Ortigia (the small town that is part of Siracusa in Sicily) has some good restaurants, but also some so-so places. After much research (I do it for you!) here are my favorite spots.
I know there are a lot of other places in Ortigia. If they aren’t listed here it means that I’ve either been there and decided you shouldn’t, or else I haven’t been there yet. In any case, if you have places you’d like to share, I’d love to hear about them. I’m going back in few months and I’d love to check them out.
Macalle – For some reason this restaurant is always described as a ‘bistrot’. I’m not quite sure what that means, but it’s definitely on the ‘modern’ side and serves some of the best food in the city. Incredibly fresh fish, cooked, as they describe it themselves ‘Nonna’s recipes revisited in a contemporary way’. Which always ends up being exactly what I feel like eating.
Bar Condorelli – Condorelli is known for it’s torrone which can be found all over Italy. Their namesake bar in Ortigia is in the main piazza and sitting there, you feel as if you are in the middle of an opera set. While I often stop by for a morning or afternoon coffee, I can never resist one of their almond cookies. But what I really love are their granita. My favorite is to stop by for breakfast for a almond / coffee mix, with a still warm brioche. Also a great spot for aperitivi.
Apollonion – This tiny fish restaurant is 100% fish. They do have a menu, but most people just order the multi course fixed menu that just keeps going and going and going. It’s delicious and includes everything from oysters to fried fish to seafood to roasted fish to dessert. Also? It’s fun!
Gutkowskino – I love the small restaurant at the Hotel Gutkowski. The modern market driven menu is small, but changes weekly. Fish of course, but also lots of veggies. You can also come for a drink, which is what I do when staying at the hotel.
Antica Giudecca – Fast food Ortigia style. When I can’t decide if I really want to eat dinner or not, after a full day, I head here for a perfect arancini. And if I’m still hungry they always have something else, like fried calamari or baked pasta.
Enoteca Solaria – I love this enoteca which specializes in natural wines from all over Italy. Their prices are great, as is the food (mostly crostini and the like).
Mercato di Ortigia – If you are lucky enough to have a kitchen to cook in, or even if you just want to snack, make sure to visit the market, which takes place every morning until about 1:30. There are several stands that also sell prepared food, including the two below.
Caseificio Borderi – Make sure you save time and stomach space for at least one panino made by Andrea at Caseificio Borderi. Don’t try to tell him what you want, just let him do his thing (which you can see here). Be forewarned: they are HUGE. The last time I was there I could only manage to eat half. But I saved the other half, and took it to the airport to eat before getting on the plane. I was very happy. Located in the market.
Fratelli Burgio – This salumeria has been in the market of Ortigia for generations. The last time I was there it was closed up, but I just read that they have re-opened just down the street, near the port. They are known for their incredible tagliere, tasting boards full of cured meats, cheeses, and cured vegetables and fish. Like little works of art.
Pasticceria Artale – Old fashioned bar that retains its original 1950s vibe. Great pastries and coffee.
Cortile Verga– This cocktail bar is set in the incredibly romantic courtyard of a 16th century palace. The cocktails are superb! Very creative but not overly so. Great nibbles too.
La Foglia (Via Capodieci, 21, 96100 Siracusa SR) – I’ve been going to this quirky restaurant for about 20 years. The decor is…original. It’s filled with mismatched furniture, old dolls (for real) and very personal collection of paintings and sculpture. I’ve always eaten extraordinarily well here, but it’s hard to describe. It’s sort of like eating in someone’s home. Everything feels made with love. We always order the orange salad, and whatever other vegetables they have. One of the best pasta alla norma’s I’ve ever had. The menu changes all the time but the nice thing is that you can always find vegetarian dishes.
If you’d like to join us in Sicily you can! Sophie and I lead 2 – 3 Week-long tours a year here. You can read all about it here
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