Joseph Mallozzi's Blog, page 508

February 11, 2012: Casting dilemma! Another Apple issue! Dancing bonito! And remembering Maximus.

Well, well, well – look at who picked up the latest issue of my comic book series, Dark Matter.  None other than my buddy (and former Stargate Special Features Producer) Ivon Bartok.  While I appreciate the effort and obvious enthusiasm, I can't help but feel there's an ulterior motive here.  Let's face it, it's no coincidence that, the day after I ask for casting suggestions for the Dark Matter t.v. series, Ivon suddenly sends me the above pic.  And it's no secret that our Mr. Bartok has a background in television performance -

"Pardon me, ma'am. Did you say TEN dimensions?"

- and yearns to land another lucrative onscreen gig he can use as a stepping stone to the big screen (and his oft-discussed future love scene with Scarlett Johansson and Mila Kunis in Wild Things 3).  Now this is all sorts of awkward.  To be honest, I don't mind bringing him in for these network auditions if he didn't always introduce himself as "Ivon Bartok – and I don't mind doing onscreen nudity.  In fact, I PREFER it!".

So, yesterday I mentioned my inability to transfer photos form my MacBook to Akemi's iPad and, along the way, ranted a little about Apple's apparent unwillingness to facilitate the process by actually providing some sort of connector cable.  According to the guy at Future Shop, there was simply no way to do it.  Well, the solution came to me this morning compliments of tech wiz Robert C. Cooper (Akemi: "HE should be working at Future Shop!") who emailed me with a simple suggestion: why not use the USB plug on the iPad recharger and transfer the photos that way.  So I did.  And it worked!  Problem solved, right?  Well, yes.  THAT problem solved.  I successfully transferred (as it turned out) all 1600+ photos onto Akemi's iPad using iTune's sync feature.  Unfortunately, as it turns out, it is impossible to delete synced photos from your iPad.  Presumably, there must be a way to sync only select photos to another device, but I have yet to figure that one out.

Last night Akemi made okonomiyaki.  Check out the dancing bonito flakes -

Bonito flakes, by the way, are actually dried, smoked tuna.  They certainly look alive and, the first time they were presented to me at a Japanese restaurant, dancing atop a plate of sizzling eggplant, I thought I was witnessing the death throes of some strange exotic creature.

Anyway, the finished product was delicious and, I dare say, even better than the one I had in Tokyo -

Took all three dogs out for a walk this morning.  I have to say that, despite being unusually stubborn and given to planting himself on the grass whenever he grew tired of trying to keep up, Maximus was the best strolling dog.  He always kept a fairly even pace, never charging ahead or wandering over to investigate some suspicious bush.  He ignored other barking dogs but always took the time to happily greet those that stopped to say hello.  He was very good with people, calm and appreciative of any attention directed his way, and especially great with kids (and the occasional drunk) who would flock to him like fervent convention-goers to a post-panel Joss Whedon.

Akemi is remembering him through a Buddhist ritual in which food offerings are made to the recently departed.

February 10, 2012: All aboard the Dark Matter express! Next stop: a t.v. near you! Sampling Crunchyroll! What's up with Apple? And Carl and Alexander's early, early Christmas gifts!

The second issue of my comic book series, Dark Matter, came out last weekend to some terrific reviews.  Thanks to everyone who has been supporting the book by picking up a copy.  If you haven't already checked it out, please do so by swinging by your local bookstore, or ordering a copy (for those of you residing outside North America or not within easy access of a comic store) here: TFAW.com, or just get yourself a digital copy here: digital.darkhorse.com.

As you well know, the plan is to use the comic book's opening four-issue arc as a springboard to an SF television series – so if you'd like to get behind the prospect of a new SF t.v. series, want to get an early sneak peek at what it's all about, or simply want to start making some early, early casting suggestions, pick up Dark Matter #2 (and #1 if you missed it).

Oh, and those reviews of the second issue…

Imad Khan at IGN: Click to read the entire review!

Josh Cabrera at KABOOOOOM: REVIEW: Dark Matter #2 | KABOOOOOM

Paul Centeno at Shifted2u:  Dark Matter #2.. 

Dustin Cabeal at Comic Bastards: bit.ly/wyCZtk

Kaitlyn McAllister at Bloody Disgusting: bloody-disgusting.com/news/comics/18…

So I've decided to give Crunchyroll.com a go.  For those of you don't know, it's a website that streams (among other East Asian programming) the latest anime, often within hours of its broadcast Japanese television (Subtitled.  I don't know how they do it).  I've decided to go ahead and try out the 14 day trial and, for the past two nights, Akemi and I have been watching the highly enjoyable Usagi Jump in glorious HD.  So far so good – especially for someone who has invested so much in anime dvd's – but I'll keep you posted.

Hey, what is the deal with Apple?  Akemi asked me to transfer photos of our Tokyo trip to her iPad.  I told her I'd put them on a USB for her only to have her inform me that the iPad didn't have a USB port.  Odd. I visited my local electronics store to inquire about whatever is used to connect a USB drive to an iPad.  It turns out the answer is nothing. There is no way to attach a USB drive to an iPad.  "Okay,"I said, "so how can I attach my iPad to my MacBook Air (probably the easiest way to transfer the photos)?".  The answer: "You can't."  Huh?  So let me get this straight, if I want to transfer documents from my computer to someone's iPad, I have no choice but to email them over?  All one thousand six hundred and eighty pictures?  THIS is progress?!!  What am I missing?

Oh, and one more pic from my Tokyo trip.  I snapped a photo of this billboard because it was my last day and didn't have time to pick up these wonderfully colorful, non-douchebag-looking jackets for my good friends Carl Binder and Alexander Ruemelin (in my estimation, the only two men who could actually pull off this look):

Guess I'll have to go the mail-order route.

Today's more upbeat blog entry is dedicated to all those who have taken the time to tell us about the difficult decisions they have faced in the past.

Tagged: Anime, Apple, Comic Books, Comics, Crunchyroll, Dark Horse Comics, Dark Matter, Dark Matter #2, iPad

February 9, 2012: Max

I picked up Max's ashes from the animal hospital yesterday, shortly after getting back into town.  They were accompanied by a certificate of cremation and a copy of The Rainbow Bridge, a poem I've never been able to bring myself to read in its entirety.  Amongst the mail that had amassed over my twelve days in Tokyo was a letter from the University of Guelph's Ontario Veterinary College, where Maximus went for his radiation treatments, informing me that a donation had been made in Max's name by the Granville Island Veterinary Hospital.  Also, a condolence card from the entire staff at the Granville Vet Hospital. Several of the written sentiments expressed an appreciation for all I had done for Maximus.  Many have pointed out that others wouldn't (or couldn't) have suffered the time, effort, and expense I did in seeking treatment for him after the cancer diagnosis and, while that may be true, it's small consolation.  In fact, the fact that I did so much to help him in those tough six months makes his last few moments all that more difficult to accept.  Yes, his condition had worsened considerably. That's not in dispute.  He had stopped eating and, despite persistent efforts to coax him into taking the tiniest amounts of food, he had dropped from some 30 lbs down to a shade under 15.  In the last few days, he'd been lethargic and weak.  What I'd first considered a response to the medications he was taking was, I realized, the disease robbing him of what little strength he still possessed.  I knew that I would have to make the call sooner or later and, in hindsight, it should have been – sooner or later.  Sooner, and I could have arranged to have him put to sleep at home, surrounded by the comforts of familiar surroundings and friends – but I waited because I was hoping he could muster one more rally as he'd already done twice before.  Later, and I could have made the same arrangements on my return from Tokyo. Instead, because I didn't act sooner, or hold off until later, Maximus spent his last moments in unfamiliar surroundings, far from the comfort of home and friends.  The fact that I was there to comfort him in his final moments does little to change the fact that he died in a place he'd grown to fear over his countless visits.  Ultimately, I made the decision I did because I wanted to be there for him and didn't want to chance the prospect of his passing while I was away, in unfamiliar surroundings, far from the comforts of home – and alone.

I can agonize over that decision and outsiders can offer their opinions on my actions but, in the end, none of that really matters.  What mattered was how Maximus felt in those last few seconds, what was going through his little mind as he sat in that room, on my lap, and took his last breath.

I thought about him a lot during my time in Tokyo.  And dreamt about him quite a bit.  In one dream, I returned to Vancouver to discover that the hospital had made a mistake, that he had actually survived the euthanasia and had been returned home to await my arrival. – sick, weary, but very much alive.  In another dream, I was informed that the original diagnosis had been in error and that Max could have survived had I not been so rash in having him put to sleep.  Just last night, I dreamt I was approached by a  black pug that bore an uncanny resemblance to Maximus.  As I watched it jump and bark and run, I was reminded of Max in younger, happier times.  And the more I watched the dog play, the more I was struck by the similarities between them.  I turned to tell someone, that, call me crazy, but I thought I was being visited by the spirit of my former dog – only to turn around and find him gone.

The other dogs have been fairly low-key since my return.  I imagine they miss him as well and, while I can't be sure, I just haven't been able to utter his name in their presence.  Jelly has been a little needier, Lulu a little quieter, while Bubba – he did something he's never done before.  Last night, he snuggled down on Maximus's favorite spot, down at the foot of the bed by my feet, and slept there all night.

As for Maximus, he now rests on the night table by my bedside, sleeping alongside the rest of the pack.  As always.

Tagged: Comic Books, Comics, Dark Matter, Dogs, pugs, The Rainbow Bridge

February 8, 2012: Tokyo Day #13! The Longer Longest Day! And Dark Matter #2 hits the stands!

The second issue of my comic book series, Dark Matter, hit the shelves today.  Did you pick up your copy?  Have you read it yet?  If so, what did you think?  Were you shocked by the surprise ending or did you see it coming?  Do tell?

THINGS I HAVE LEARNED FROM THIS TOKYO TRIP:

1. Do not eat chocolate in bed unless you are washing the sheets.

2. Japanese mustard is NOT the same thing as Western mustard.  It is actually closer to wasabi paste, with an explosive, sinus-clearing, eye-tearing, throat-constricting kick waiting to surprise anyone stupid enough to pop some into his mouth.

3. If I sample something while shopping, fifty percent of the time I will buy the product.  As a result, I should avoid sampling.

4. The Japanese like their paper currency in pristine condition – crispy and clear as if it just came off the printing press.  I have no idea where all the old, folded money goes.

5. Most Japanese women can be quite shy and unassuming – unless they happen to be bathroom attendants in which case they'll brazenly stroll into the men's room and refill the soap dispenser unruffled by the guys lined up at the urinals.

Well, it seems I spoke to soon.  Akemi is only halfway to getting her permanent residency.  Apparently, the second part of the process has yet to be completed: final approval on the part of the embassy in Tokyo.  And that could take another 6 months.  So, positive news but the wait continues…

We were scheduled for a late 3:30 departure on the shuttle bus to Narita (for our 19:10 flight to Vancouver) and, despite having a half day to work with, Akemi felt she needed most of the time to pack and shower (after stocking up necessities like okonomiyaki sauce and dried seaweed).  And so, rather than go out for lunch, we stayed in and enjoyed a few items from the Mitsukoshi basement food shops…

Akemi had a fruit sandwich from the little fruit shop near Chuo Dori.

I had the Maisen katsu sandwich that was surprisingly crispy and moist with a hint of sweetness delivered by the accompanying Maisen sauce.

I also had some shishito tempura (love these tiny Japanese peppers).

I also had a yube and broccoli and mushroom and Japanese sweet potato and lotus root salad – and a chocolate cornet for dessert.  And -

This ultra-rich and decadent dark chocolate creation from Frederic Cassel.

Some final images from my Tokyo trip:

Banana dispenser in one of the Tokyo subway stations. When a Coke just won't do it.

Don't know what she's selling, but I'm buying!

Don't know what she's selling either, but I'm also buying. As long as it's not the hat.

Mmmmmm. Collon cream.

Apparently, some of the supermarkets offer a handy sweetness scale for fruit.

Also - want to know where your produce comes from? Well, in this case, meet the farmer who grew the crop you're about to purchase.

I wonder what spurred them to erect guardrails on the subway platforms. Too many drunken salarymen ending up on the tracks?

Riding the subway

I prepare to eat my crispy pork sandwich before passing through security in the however unlikely event they choose to confiscate my dinner.

And my Hattendo cream bun too.

The underground shortcut to Gate 43.

Back home and exhausted…

February 7, 2012: Tokyo Day #12! Berkserk! Nakajima! Taku! And a fond farewell to Star Bar! A mini mailbag!

On my second day in Tokyo, I came across a poster for Berserk (Golden Age Arc I: Egg of the Supreme Ruler), the first part of a three-part film trilogy based on one of my all-time favorite anime series (which was, in turn, based on a wildly popular manga series).  The movie's opening happened to coincide with this Tokyo trip so I took it as a sign that I HAD to go see it – while, hopefully, picking up some Japanese during the viewing since it was unlikely the movie had subtitles (and I was right).  I mentioned this to my friend Moro-san who kindly researched and forwarded me information on where Berserk would be screening, the times, and even the closest subway station and exit.

The plan was to head to Shibuya in the afternoon and catch a matinee while Akemi was at her nail salon appointment.  I figured the instructions I'd received from Moro-san were more than sufficient.  Akemi thought differently, however, and was actually concerned for me, possibly assuming I would wander out of the Shibuya station never to be seen again.  Despite assurances that I would be fine (Hey, this isn't my first Japanese rodeo!) she insisted on writing out a note in Japanese that I was to present at the closest police box should I lose my way – I assume something along the lines of: "My name is Joseph Mallozzi and I am lost.  Please take pity on me and help me get back to the Imperial Hotel".

Fortunately, I didn't have to use it because, as it turned out, the movie was playing just blocks away from where we were going for lunch in Shinjuku.  Akemi was greatly relieved but still insisted on walking me to the movie theater when the time came.  She also held my hand when we crossed the street.  I had always assumed this was simply her being affectionate.

Anyway, after Akemi enjoyed her massive strawberry for breakfast -

About the size of a golf ball.

- and I enjoyed a papaya (that, incidentally, cost three times as much as the most expensive papaya in Vancouver but, in my estimation, wasn't three times as good) and the leftover Hattendo cream buns, we headed out to Shinjuku for lunch at the popular Nakajima.

The streets of Shinjuku. Two rainy days in a row! Good movie-watching weather!

I doubt they serve actual gorilla.

By the time we arrived for our noon reservation, there was already a line-up outside.  According to Akemi, the restaurant is quite famous for both its food and its head chef who she likened to a Japanese Gordon Ramsay.  Alas, there were no verbal fireworks during our lunch ("Look at these scallops!  They're fucking COOOOKED!").  But we did enjoy another delicious – and beautifully presented – multi-course meal:

We were given a private room so I wouldn't offend the regulars with my brutish gaijin ways.

Tofu paste with Asian spinach on the left and octopus, conch, and Japanese spring vegetables on the right. Akemi and I marvelled over the octopus, the most tender we've ever eaten. According to our server, it had been tenderized, then scrubbed, not with salt but with nuka (Japanese rice bran) before being steamed and simmered.

Suppon (turtle) soup. A first for me. It was actually very subtle in flavor. Very nice.

Our server was nice enough to bring us a food encyclopedia that included pictures and explanations of various food items (albeit in Japanese).

Akemi reacts to the sea cucumber section - doing her best Tori Spelling.

The sashimi plate: flounder, Spanish mackerel, and sweet sea urchin. According to Sawada-san, 80% of the sea urchin consumed in Japan hails from North America. This uni, however, came from the sea North of Hokkaido.

Grilled saikyo (sweet) miso-marinated salmon with sweet red beans.

Mozuku - seaweed and vinegar. I wasn't as enthusiastic about the slimy texture, but Akemi loved it. Very Japanese.

Steamed yuba (soybean skin) and snapper. A delicate dish offering a wonderfully complex flavor profile.

Tsukemono - Japanese pickles, which accompanied...

Ochazuke: rice and bonito stock (usually tea) with marinated flounder, seaweed, and rice crackers - topped with dried seaweed which was, in turn, sprinkled with match (green tea powder). The flounder, slightly cooked in the stock, offered terrific taste and texture.

The home made ichigo ice cream to finish, bursting with fresh strawberry flavor.

Service was outstanding.  Highly recommended – but if you're going to go, be sure to make reservations!

After lunch, Akemi insisted on walking me to the movie theater.  Since it was raining, we cut through the underground -

Bottom left of the picture - I love the idea of training children to fight fires. So often, firefighters will find themselves stymied by inaccessible hotspots. In cases like these, what better solution than to arm a toddler with a fire extinguisher and send the little monkey in to complete the job!

Apparently, it says something along the lines of "Please don't pee here. Use the bathroom instead." Coincidentally, Carl Binder used to have one of these signs up in his office when he worked on Stargate.

Speaking of the Stargate...so this is where they relocated it to after the closure of Cheyenne Mountain.

And so, Akemi walked me the two blocks to the movie theater and, I'm happy to report, I arrived safe and sound.

Also playing! If I had one more day...

Hey, check it out. I think it's a documentary tracing my fantasy football team, the Snow Monkeys, and their improbable run for the championship!

We went inside.  Akemi bought me a ticket from the automated kiosk (in Japan, you can actually choose your seat in advance!), then headed up to the ninth floor cinema to scout the area with me.  Since it was an hour to show time, I suggested we head back the two blocks to the Isetan and do some shopping.  She seemed uncertain but I assured her that I now knew where to go.  Everything would be fine.  So we went to the Isetan, shopped in the basement, then parted company – after which I promptly got lost.  Fortunately, I found my way back to the theater in time for the 3:10 showing.

The movie was great – epic in scope, beautifully animated, with some gorgeous visuals (especially that huge opening battle) and plenty of bloody action.  And I hardly understood a word of what was said.  But enjoyed myself nevertheless.  It is a prequel that will ultimately cover the manga's second arc (volume's 3 to 13).  A treat for fans of the anime series, but if I had one criticism, it was that I missed the anime's stirring opening theme.

For our final dinner in Tokyo, we decided to do sushi and so, headed to Taku in Nishi-Azabu where we enjoyed another spectacular sushi extravaganza.  Some of the highlights included -

The smokey, melt-in-your mouth chu-toro aburi.

The sweet Spanish mackerel

Crispy-skinned kime nigiri.

Ultra-tender maguro tataki with daikon.

Awesome knife skills…

And the master of ceremonies, the man behind the night's sushi creations -

Chef and Owner of Taku - Takuya Sato

It being our final night and all, I only thought it appropriate that we say goodbye to our friends at Star Bar.  Akemi and I met up with Moro-san, had a few drinks, then I dropped off some gifts for my friends.  Although Akemi and Master Hisashi Kishi had never met, they recognized each other from the blog!

Master Bartender Extraordinaire Hisashi Kishi (left), Akemi (center), and Bartending Pro Yamasak-san (right).

We called it an early night so that we could finish our packing and thereby look forward to a final free half-day.  Akemi was bummed that she had lost her two-drink buzz: "Sake magic gone.  Not so much funny anymore."

We catch the 3:30 p.m. shuttle to Narita for our 19:10 flight, so we have time for a nice, leisurely lunch – and then a stroll through the basement of Mitsukoshi where I intend to stock up on goodies for the flight home.

See you all on the other side and thanks for joining me on this trip!

Mailbag:

Akemi's friend, Harumi writes: "I'm glad that I met you. I just wanted to thank you for a great time and nice food."

Answer: Do itashimashite!  It was great meeting you too.  See you again in Vancouver (maybe?) or back in Tokyo this September (maybe?).

Birdy writes: "Maybe there is something interesting you haven't heard of, which you like to catch that even has an anime adaption:Übel Blatt Vinland Saga D Gray man Bakuman Pluto

Answer: Thanks for the tips, Birdy.  Once I'm back in Vancouver, I'm planning to re-immerse myself in anime big time.  Tops on my list: High School of the Dead, Steins Gate, Another, Bunny Drop, We Still Don't Know the Name of the Flower We Saw That Day, Mawaru Penduindrum, Puella Magi Madoka Magica, and Dead Man Wonderland.  I'm thinking of subscribing to Crunchyroll.  Thoughts?

Julie writes: "Have you been to an onset?"

Answer: Not yet.  I'd like to take a train trip from Hokkaido to Osaka next year and maybe hit a couple of onsens along the way.

Lewis writes: "There was something I wanted to ask you… while in Tokyo have you seen any interesting commercialization for obscure products by Hollywood actors (ie- like Bill Murray's "Lost In Translation" character)?"

Answer: Yes.  Tommy Lee Jones really pushing Boss Coffee -

michael1(isny) writes: "For my month in Japan, I rented a furnished apartment through Space Design.  http://www.space-d.co.jp/en/".

Answer: Thanks for the link, Michael.  My friend, Koji, also directed me to the same site.   I think that, on my next visit, I may just rent an apartment instead.

Shannon writes: "Madoka Magica Glad to hear that everything is working out for Akemi to stay in Canada! Maybe this is a dumb question (or maybe I missed it), but how did you two meet?"

Answer: We met during one of my annual Tokyo visits.  Our first date: November 30, 2009: Tokyo Travel Day $6 – Ginza La Tour, Michel Troisgros

Blake Linton writes: "On this day when so many television commercials are unveiled, it seems appropriate to fill you in on my own ongoing campaign of "commercials" aimed at convincing Netflix to revive Stargate Universe."

Answer: Hey, Blake – thanks for fighting the good fight!

Tagged: Anime, Berserk, Berserk Golden Age Arc I: Egg of the Supreme Ruler, Berserk: The Movie, Beserk, Nakajima, Tokyo Dining, Tokyo travel

February 7, 2012: Tokyo Day #11! The gang back home! Okonomiyaki! And my weirdest meal yet! Well, actually not so much a meal as a bite.

I received an email from my dog-sitter Christine who informs me Jelly, Bubba, and Lulu are doing well.  The latter two can apparently go on endless walks while Jelly can only manage the occasional half block – but only if she's enticed with treats.  Anyway, Christine forwarded the following pics of the gang back on the home front…

Bubba and Lulu out and about.

Jelly wants to know what's in it for her?

This one makes me a little sad for the conspicuous space between Bubba and Lulu. Room for one more.

Lulu's post-walk ritual.

After attempting to watch the Super Bowl online at about 10:00 a.m. Tokyo time, I got fed up and decided to go for an early lunch instead.  To be honest, I didn't really care about the game  but was happy the Giants won nevertheless (or, more to the point, the Patriots lost!).  So we bundled up and headed out, braving the rain to check out Kiji, an okonomiyaki restaurant near Tokyo Station.

Hey, check it out! It's the Hello Kitty Express!

What is okonomiyaki?  Well, according to wikipedia it's "a Japanese savory pancake containing a variety of ingredients": a batter base (flour, dashi, grated yam, eggs, and cabbage) + whatever else you'd like to add.  We passed on the soba noodles and bean sprouts.  Akemi went for the beef tendon while I did the "everything else".

We were seated at a counter in front of a big grill and given plastic bibs. Curiously, no one else wore them, however Akemi was insistent we wear ours.

The spatter guard is presumably there to keep molten hot globs of batter from sailing across the counter and onto the unwary diner's lap.

The batter is ladled out onto the hot grill and formed into a circular shape.

It is topped with...whatever you like: beef, bacon, squid, prawn...foie gras?

Then flipped and grilled until cooked through to a crispy finish.

Flipped again, then brushed with mayo and a rich, dark brown sauce.

Topped with a half raw egg then showered with seaweed powder, bonito and chopped green onions. Et voila. Bon appetit!

I liked it enough but actually thought the version Akemi makes much better.  She could use her own spatter guard though.

After lunch, we headed over to Akihabara expressly so I could visit Hattendo and pick up a variety pack of those delicious cream buns.  While there, we walked around and I snapped a pic of the following twosome.  Not sure where they were headed but I would have loved to know…

We did some late afternoon shopping and then took a break at the Gucci Cafe (apparently, all the major designer shops have cafes now) where I enjoyed a very good Zuppa Inglese with Pistachio Cream while Akemi had some signature cocktail that contained honey, salt, grapefruit, kiwi, mint, some herb, and pink peppercorn.  It was described as sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and spicy.  After sampling it, I would have also added "weird".

Alas, that drink wasn't the weirdest thing I consumed on the day.   I ended up being taken to a dinner that tested the limits of what even I, an adventurous eater, could stomach.  Already leery at the mere prospect, I prepared myself in advance by lining my stomach – with a whole other early dinner at the Sans Applause restaurant in the Imperial Hotel.

Dinner #1

It was a great meal and I should have called it a night, retreated back to my hotel room, and started on the half-dozen cream buns I'd picked up from Hattendo earlier in the day.  Instead, I ended up being taken to a baniku restaurant.  "What,"you may ask, "is baniku?"  Well…

I was informed that horse meat toughens when cooked so it's customary to eat it raw, sashimi style.  A sample plate was, apparently, the way to go for a first-timer.  I wasn't particularly hungry and figured I could get away with just a bite without offending.  Following a luridly purple yet surprisingly good potato salad, the sample plate arrived:

It was comprised of lean and fatty cuts, and some suspiciously white chunks topped with an egg that our waiter claimed was meat from neck (although I could detect no discernible meat, just a lot of what appeared to be chopped raw gristle).  The video of my sampling the latter is simply too horrific to screen – but nowhere near as horrific as what I went through trying to get it down.  I was later informed by the chef that it wasn't meat per se but "like pork lard only horse".  On this night, sake was my friend (well, an even better friend).  I would also like to add that, despite being told that everyone ate the meat raw, on my way out I couldn't help but notice a group seated around a hot pot, cooking theirs!

Last full day in Tokyo.  While Akemi hangs around Ginza to get her nails done, I'm going to Shibuya to catch the first part of the Berserk trilogy.  Check out the trailer:

Jealous?  I know Carl is.

Today's entry is dedicated to Debra.

February 6, 2012: Tokyo Day #10! Still thinking about it! Dim Sum! Ueno! Back to Harujuku! Another night with the ladies!

Hey, I hear what you're all saying.  There's a big difference between visiting a place for two weeks out of the year and actually living there, however I am a creature of habit.  I adjusted quite quickly to Vancouver after the move from Montreal and then adjusted to life alone with the dogs.  When Akemi came to visit – and ended up sticking around – I adjusted, and I was even able to adjust to life in Toronto last year.  In fact, by about the middle of August, I was, admittedly, enjoying myself (Miss you, Buca!).  So I imagine that if I moved to Tokyo, I would adjust in time.  Sure, there would be things I'd miss (ie. friends, English, clothing my size) but I'm sure I would readjust.  On the surface, money would seem to be the biggest hurdle but I've given it some thought and, even in the event that I don't work for quite some time, after selling the house in Van I could get an apartment here and live quite comfortably for a good long while.  Nope, the biggest issue is still the dogs – not only getting them here but finding a Tokyo dog-sitter in the event I ever want to take a vacation.

Anyway, at this point this is all just fantasy given that I have some plans for a few projects this coming year.  First and foremost is my comic book series, Dark Matter, that launched last month and that, if all goes as planned, will make the transition from the comic book page to the small (depending on the size of your t.v.) screen.  The second issue hits the shelves this Wednesday (February 8th!) so be sure to pick it up and be the first to know what the pilot episode will be about (including the shocking last minute reveal).

Check out a sneak peek at the first six pages of Dark Matter #2 here: SNEAK PEEK: Dark Matter #2 | Major Spoilers – Comic Book Reviews and News        

And a great review of the second issue here: Review – Dark Matter #2 – Rebirth Part 2 of 4 | BAMFAS.com …

I've also good a horror script to finish up (hopefully by month's end) and that historical mini-series I should get back to researching (and, eventually, pitching).

But all that's for Vancouver.  Here in Tokyo, I fast approach the end of my vacation.  I'm thinking that, depending on my schedule, I may come back in September.  My new buddy, Koji, gave me a link to a place that rents furnished apartments.  I perused the site and realized that renting a place for a month would actually be less expensive than staying at a hotel for two weeks.  What better way to get a feel for life as a native than by having to make your own dinner reservations?

Today, I did something I've never done in Japan: eaten at a Chinese restaurant.  Akemi felt like Chinese food (specifically, mango pudding) and booked us lunch at the famed Fook Lam Moon.  I've been to the one in Hong Kong and, gotta say, the one here in Tokyo is better.  We ordered a set lunch and were stuffed well before the arrival of the sticky rice purse.  We started with some of the best barbecued pork chau siu I've ever had, then followed with Peking Duck, four kinds of dim sum, a scallop and noodle dish, some curry rice with almonds and raisins and, for dessert, that mango cake for her and some peanut and sesame balls for me.

The chive dumplings

The siu long bao.

Daikon mochi!

After lunch, we split up and went our separate ways – she to Shinjuku, me to Ueno and a return visit to Akihabara.

I'm not sure I get it.

Is that guy on the tracks dazed, drunk or both? As for jumping into the path of an oncoming train to save someone - yeah, won't have to worry about me ever breaking that particular rule.

I went to Ueno Park because the Tokyo guide books say it's always packed with all manner of weird-looking individuals on Sunday afternoons.  Sadly, on this day, it was unremarkable – not a weirdling in sight (present company excluded).

Ueno Park

Who says the Japanese don't like whales?

Apparently, hot sweet potato vendors are fairly common.

I wandered the busy side streets.  Check out this guy shilling his wares -

Eventually, I was done with Ueno and hopped on the subway.  Two stops later, I was back in Akihabara.

The wide open streets (on a Sunday anyway) of Akihabara!

One of the many multi-level complexes packed with everything from anime-related merchandise to videos of models in small, ill-fitting bikinis.

Check out the line-up outside the Gundam Cafe. You'd think Amuro Ray himself was pulling barista duties.

Anyway, I walked around and blended in with the geeks, becoming one of THEM for the two hours I was there.  At one point, I think a couple of them got suspicious of me so I purchased some otaku goods to throw them off:

A new Neon Genesis Evangelion cover for my iPhone, a Gintama t-shirt, and the first issue of some manga called Baby, Please Kill Me about an elementary school assassin.

So I head back to Akihabara station and I'm walking along when I happen to notice a little dessert shop called Hattendo selling the most delicious looking cream buns.  I had at least a three hour window either way between lunch and dinner so I decided to sample one.

A revelation! The second I bit into it, it assumed a top five position in my Top 10 Foods I'd Bring With Me To A Deserted Island. Luscious chocolatey cream packed into a sweet bread, contradictorily light airy and airy, yet dense and chewy.

I was so excited that I picked one up for Akemi and brought it back to the hotel (where I ate half). My favorite dessert of this Tokyo trip! And only 200 yen (roughly $2) a piece!

For dinner, we once again met up with Akemi's friends – minus the intriguingly enigmatic Ayaka who had to work…

Nanako

Hikari

Harumi

We went to a called Satouyousuke that specialized in Akita ("casual countryside" was Akemi's definition) cuisine.  I had a few beers with Nanako (doing the gentlemanly thing since she didn't want to drink alone) and sampled a wide range of interesting items – some of which I still can't identify.  At one point, Nanoka was perusing the menu and came upon one of her favorites: the chicken sashimi!  Akemi was horrified and vowed not to eat it for fear it would make her sick, then encouraged me to try some for a long overdue weird food purchase of the week video instalment…

The chicken sashimi!

With most everything else shut down, we ended up settling for not-so-good desserts (stale pie and crystallized ice creams) at a cafe called Aux Bacchanales.  It was inching toward 11:00 p.m. and we were about to call it a night when a guy walks in (not Japanese – he looked mixed), holds out his hand for me to shake it, and asks (in English): "Do you remember me?".  I stare back at him blankly, trying to place the face as the rest of the table falls silent.  "Do you remember?"he asks again.  "No,"I finally tell him.  And, with that, he turns and leaves the cafe.  "Maybe you did know him,"Akemi suggested, pointing out I'm terrible with names and face.  True, I conceded, but given my response, I would think that any normal person would have followed up with an explanation of who they were and how they knew me rather than simply turning and leaving.  Akemi realized I was right and then was suddenly freaked out because the mystery man had let the cafe and taken a left turn – toward our hotel!  I assured her it was an honest – albeit weird – mistake.

Anyway, we returned to hotel safe and sound and turned in much too late for our planned early morning Tsukiji sushi breakfast.

The Sony Building hosts some sort of Snoopy event.

Received a text from Robert Cooper informing me that I'm missing a Superbowl Chilli Cook-Off.  Damn!

GO GIANTS!!!

Today's entry is dedicated to PBMom.

Tagged: Comic Books, Comics, Dark Matter, Fook Lam Moon, Tokyo Dining, Tokyo travel

February 5, 2012: Tokyo Day #9! Good news! A formal lunch at a casual restaurant! A gay egg! A rose-donkey! And a night out with the gals!

Woke up to some very good news.  From the government no less!  Akemi's application for permanent residency has been approved, meaning she won't have to leave Canada when her visitor's visa expires (on her birthday!) this April.  According to the letter I received, the paperwork has been sent to Tokyo for processing – whatever that means.  I think we'll celebrate today by going out for a very nice meal!

Speaking of which – yesterday, we went out for two very nice meals with a whole bunch of Akemi's friends.

For lunch, we headed over to Le Chat Souriant, what Akemi described as "casual French".

Le Chat Souriant in Ginza

As it turned out, the first floor IS casual french (bright, open, bistro-style) while the upstairs, where we ate dinner, was actually formal style (the servers in tuxes were a dead giveaway).  We were joined by Akemi's friends Maki and Masa and enjoyed a terrific multi-course meal.  They all went for the lighter selection while I opted for the, er, heartier choice…

The Amuse Bouche. Maguro in the spoon, eggplant mousse with a eggplant chips in the bowl, and a crispy-fried foie grass and apple fritter. Small bites with huge flavor!

The lobster terrine, cucumber terrine, and lobster with a vanilla foam. I was uncertain about this one when I read it on the menu but it actually worked.

Seasonal vegetables in aioli. At the center, incredibly airy, whipped potatoes. Despite being more of a meat eater, I loved this dish. The vegetables were perfectly prepared and utterly delicious.

Greenling with spinach and roasted endive. I've yet to have a bad fish dish in Tokyo.

The beef cheek with Chinese vegetables. Melt-in-your-mouth tender.

Akemi, Maki, and Masa's dessert: The Strawberry Festival (strawberry and coconut panna cotta, strawberry sorbet, and fresh strawberries in strawberry sauce topped with a yogurt foam). Akemi and co. were VERY happy.

My dessert: fresh fruit topped with delicious liquor-laced cream and home made honey ice cream. I usually don't enjoy fruit with my dessert but this combination was a home run.

Chef Koji Watanabe, Chef de Cuisine - Le Chat Souriant!

A magnificent meal.  We all left, extremely satisfied.

While we didn't try the main floor menu, the fact that both kitchens are presided over by the same chef (Chef de Cuisine Koji Watanabe) gives me confidence that, while the dining experience may be more relaxed, the food would be just as wonderful.  Highly recommended.

We decided to walk off lunch by hopping on the metro and heading over to Omotesando for a stroll through Harajuku and a visit to Kiddyland.

On our way to the station, I noticed a huge crowd had gathered. I went over to investigate and discovered everyone snapping photos of these three adorable cats. I couldn't resist snapping my own pic of these adorable photographers photographing those adorable cats.

Maki and Masa say hi.

The Streets of Harujuku

Nanu Nanu?

Came across this amusing character in Kiddyland. According to Akemi who played the accompanying video, he's a gay egg eggsercise instructor. Didn't catch the name.

"Hey, it's a rose donkey!"I said. "What's a rose donkey?"asked Akemi. I pointed. "Aah!"she nodded knowingly. "A rose donkey!"

Alas, I didn't pick up anything at Kiddyland (although I was tempted by a pair of Neon Genesis Evangelion Shinji chopsticks).

We headed back to the hotel for some R&R, then out again, this time for dinner at Jojoen for top-rated yakiniku with a bunch of Akemi's friends.  It was me and five women.  Sadly, it would have been six women but Megumi had to bow out at the last minute…

Girls' (+ 1 guy not pictured) Night Out!

They left the ordering to me.  I tried to strike a balance between familiar fare and daring selections…

The ox-tail. I had to eat most of these myself.

Tonsoku (boneless pig's feet). I had to eat most of these myself.

The beef tongue with (hidden) chopped green onions. I got a lot of help on these.

We drank sake.  I grilled meats.  They chatted away in Japanese.  Then, following dessert (ice cream), we headed over to Laduree for more desserts (pastries and macarons) and more Japanese conversation.  Akemi offered the occasional translation and her friends would sometimes stop and direct a comment or question my way – iiiinnnn slooooow preeeciiise Jaaaapaaaaneeese.  Surprisingly, I was able to keep up for the most part and, when I wasn't keeping up, I was certainly entertained.  I mean, come on.  I was out with five beautiful women!

The previous day, my friend Moro-san gifted me a box of Laderach Swiss chocolates.  Then, last night, Ayaka-san gifted me a box of Debailleul darks!  I am spoiled!

Today, we're doing dim sum at Fook Lam Moon (I visited the one in Hong Kong many years ago) and dinner at Satoyousuke for Akita-style (countryside) cuisine with Akemi's friends.  In between, I think I'll make the trip to Ueno and check out the strange sights.

Tagged: Jojoen, Koji Watanabe, Le Chat Souriant, Tokyo Dining

February 4, 2012: Day #8! Considering a change in location! Visiting Geek Central! Dessert for dinner and dinner for dessert! Make your own ice cubes – Star Bar style! And a mini mailbag!

The more I consider it, the more I think I could actually give it a go here in Tokyo.  Of course, the move wouldn't be as simple as just picking up and shifting my life over to the other side of the world.  Some issues would have to be addressed.  Chiefly: 1. What would I do with my days?  2. What would I do for work?  3. How would I get the dog shere?  Well, last things first.  I won't compromise the safety of my dogs so flying them over from Vancouver presents a bit of a problem.  I can't see them flying carry-on, nestled under the seat in front of me for the 10+ hour flight, and given the horror stories I've heard about dogs flying cargo, I'll dismiss that option outright.  Short of chartering a private jet, that leaves me with no other options.  But let's say, for the sake of argument, that Air Canada adopts that pet-friendly policy I've been talking about for years now, and they suddenly realize the financial benefits of offering pet-friendly flights in which pet owners are actually permitted to purchase seats for their furry companions.  In that case, problem is solved and we could all fly in style.

Which brings us to issues #1 and #2.  Well, I'm sure I could always find something to occupy my time.  I could look into the dark, mysterious and oft-frightening world of freelancing.  Granted the type of money I'd make would be nowhere near the sum I could bring in show running, but certain sacrifices would have to be made.  Hell, I've calculated that if I sold my place in Vancouver, I could make enough money to rent a very nice place and live comfortably for quite some time.  QUITE some time.  But that's defeatist thinking.  IF I can make a modest living, find a nice place, and can move my dogs without hassle, Tokyo could be a viable option…

In which I'd enjoy days like the one I enjoyed yesterday.  Following a leisurely morning spent updating this blog, Akemi and I dropped by the Pierre Marcolini Cafe, her former haunt, to say hello to her former co-workers…

The Maroclini Gang: Keiko-san, Akemi, and Dr. Yukina.

From there, it was a short, three-block walk over to my favorite sushi-ya: Sawada.  It was my third visit there in as many years.  The first time I went, I was blown away.  The second time, I brought Ivon along and he was so impressed that he declared it the best meal he'd ever had.  Yesterday, I brought Akemi along for my third visit and she was blown away by the quality of the sushi, the presentation, and Sawada-san who a delightful host – friendly, humorous, and full of fascinating information on the various ingredients and the painstaking process by which he produces his delicious creations.  For instance, he had a special refrigerator to allow for ice-cooling, lets certain fish rest for days before serving, and prepares his rice thirty minutes to an hour before each service.  Any rice that is left over after lunch is thrown out because he feels the flavor is compromised after an hour, and he starts from scratch for the dinner service.  He served us two types of sea urchin and explained how he washes one with water from Hokkaido because that's where that particular uni hails from, just north of the island where it feeds on its famed kombu (seaweed).  He served us some otoro, aburi-style, and told us how it was the inspiration for kobe beef.  And the taste, texture, and look of the aburi proved remarkably similar to the famed, well-marbled beef:

There was a strict no photo policy in place so as not to distract the other customers so I can't offer the visual rundown I've done with previous restaurants, but suffice it to say we enjoyed yet another remarkable meal.

After lunch, I finally got to hit Akihabara, aka Electric Town, aka Otaku Central, home of the electronic deals, anime merchandise, and roaming geeks. On our way out of the station, we stopped by Doughnut Plant and picked up two doughnuts: the tiramusi and the vanilla.  Fondy remembered these doughnuts fondly from her days in Tokyo.

My emphatic sampling.

Results in a mess. You can't take me anywhere!

The verdict?  Meh.  Even Akemi was somewhat disappointed, claiming they weren't as good as she remembered.  Alas, they never are.  We gave the doughnuts to a homeless man and moved on.

The streets of Akihabara!

After picking up a new Evangelion cell phone case for my iPhone (it's nowhere near an effective protective cover as the one I was using, but it's an Evangelion cover!), we headed over to the Sega centre where Akemi sought to recapture some more fond memories (these from her high school days) by doing some purrikura which, it turns out, isn't a hallucinogenic but Japanese slang for "print club".  We went upstairs and entered one of the numerous little photo booths, then used to the touch screen to select our picture frames – something suitably saccharine – then posed for various shots.  It took me a while to get the hang of it as there was a full one second disconnect between the sound of the click and the actual flash -

I'll go with the plain silly, thanks.

Once we were done, we proceeded to a second booth at which you input your various little doodles, comments, drawings, and symbols onto the picture.  Once that was done, you proceeded to yet another booth at which you input your email address (so they could send you tiny, poor quality copies, natch) and printed up tiny, poor quality copies of your session.

I must say, I was dubious at first but I think it did a really great job of capturing my youthful exuberance and big brown eyes…

Damn.  If only I'd known about this when I was here with Ivon last year.

After that, we walked around Akihabara and checked out some of the shops (or, should I say, giant multi-level complexes).  I'd like to bring a new anime series back to Vancouver with me but there are so many of them, I'm having a hard time deciding.  Anyone out there know what's new and great in the world of anime?

Well, I didn't find an anime series to check out, I did come across plenty of interesting sights…only in Akihabara…

This guy was a having a great old time on the drum game.

One of the neighbourhood's many maids, trawling the streets for potential customers. I told Akemi that, if we moved to Tokyo, she could work at a Maid Cafe and I could work at the neighbouring Butler Cafe. I'm sure I would be quite popular!

Check out the howitzers on that kid. Something you rarely see in North American cartoons.

The sommelier would like to recommend a Dragonball 1989. Or would you prefer the 2002 Sailor Moon?

We ended up running out of time as we had to be in Roppongi to meet a friend of Akemi's for dinner, so we hopped on the metro and caught the Hibiya line to Midtown.  Inside the station, I snapped pics of some of the subway warnings.  Check out the smart Japanese raccoons schooling the dumb foreigner…

Look at this moron - all relaxed. He's just asking for his elbows to get clipped by a passing train. Don't they have subways where he comes from?!

Seriously.  If not for stupid gaijin, these warning signs would be wholly unnecessary.

By the time we got to Roppongi, it was already dark.

The streets of Roppongi.

We ended up meeting at the Jean Paul Hevin cafe.  Dinner consisted of a chocolate extravaganza: four chocolate cakes, chocolate ice cream, and chocolate sorbet.  Oh, and  a Perrier for me as I'm trying to watch my girlish figure.

The cakes ranged from great to incredible.

Surprisingly, I preferred the sorbet over the ice cream. Not that the ice cream was bad. The sorbet was simply that good.

And...done. Sort of. If Ivon had been with me, we would have polished off everything.

Akemi got the chance to catch up with her old friend and I even managed to catch a few words here and there.  I think that the only way I'm going to improve my Japanese conversational and listening skills is by going full immersion.  Similarly, I think the only way I'm going to really learn to read Hiragana and Katakana is by picking up some Japanese manga and going through the laborious process of translating each and every panel.  It'll be difficult at first but, eventually, much easier in time.

We left Midtown and Ayaka, then headed outside where we grabbed some dessert -

Takoyaki! A.k.a octopus balls filled with octopus bits, flour, baking soda, bonito stock, green onion and cabbage. We had two kinds: original (takoyaki sauce, mayo and seaweed) and mentaiko-mayonnnaise (marinated fish eggs and green onion).

They're always half-cooked to produce a molten center designed to deliver maximum mouth burn.

We were on our way back to the hotel when I received an email from my friend Moro-san.  She was interested in hitting Star Bar after work.  How could I say no?  We met up.  I had a couple of Moscow Mules.  I practiced my Japanese and we were treated to a demonstration of ice craftsmanship:

The Boss! Hisashi Kishi!

Mini mailbag:

Major D. Davis writes: "ALL THAT FOOD."

Answer: Yeah.  It'll be oatmeal for breakfast when I return to Vancouver.  By the way, Major, nice to have you back.

Lewis writes: "How different is the weather there from what it normally is in Vancouver this time of year?"

Answer: It's actually much colder here in Tokyo!

JeffW writes: "I'm thinking about trying LDP's Kale Chips this weekend."

Answer: How does he make them?  I like them oven roasted after being tossed in olive oil and a bit of sea salt.

Kabra writes: "The purple yam thing, hmmm can we get those here?? Are they really grown in that colour??"

Answer: They're pretty damn purple naturally but I think that, in the case of the cakes, their color may have been enhanced.  I think I've seen them in Vancouver.  Akemi claims purple potatoes are healthier.  As a result, I no longer feel guilty eating those cakes for breakfast.

for the love of Beckett writes: "Akemi, has Joe said anything funny or amusing in Japanese recently?"

Answer: Akemi says to stay tuned for her Shit My Canadian Boyfriend Says twitter account.

for the love of Beckett also writes: "Do you see many dogs strolling Tokyo? Any Shiba Inu?"

Answer: I've seen a surprising number of dogs strolling about, mainly small breeds (chihuahuas, shibas, a couple of french bulldogs yesterday) but a couple of bigger dogs as well (a doberman and a golden retriever).

Shiny writes: "I'm going to move to Japan and sell cute wool caps to all these folks wandering around in the cold with not hat on."

Answer: Great.  Let's go into business together.  It's either selling wool caps or working at the Butler Cafe!

Kathode writes: "Anyway, my suggestion for another superhero-of-the-week movie would be "Super Fuzz."

Answer: Why have I never heard of this movie?  It looks absolutely dreadful – and thus perfect for our SuperMovie of the Week Club!

dasndanger writes: "Oh, forgot to tell you what the dream was about. You updated your blog saying you were back in Vancouver, and I was baffled because I never saw an entry saying that you had actually left Japan."

Answer: Weird!!!  Were you able to get back to sleep?

SebiMeyer writes: "The legends surrounding the Kappa are quite disturbing. It feeds on human large intestines, which it accesses by crawling up their butt. The cucumbers are just offered so if doesn't do that to you."

Answer: Thanks for that educational – and disturbing – tidbit.

Sue Jackson writes: "How do eat all this stuff and not get fat? Do you jog every morning?"

Answer: The secret is in walking everywhere.  It just eats up the calories.  One year of this and I'd probably be at my peak physical shape, ready to box Carl Binder for the championship belt.

ILyes D. Vex writes: "and the pudding cake thing, isn't it called Anpan or something???"

Answer: Anpan is something different.  I believe it's a sweet bun filled with red bean paste.

max writes: "Has your dog-sitter mentioned if your other dogs look confused that maximus isnt around anymore?"

Answer: She says they're doing great and don't see to be acting or reacting any differently.  Of course that may change when I get back.  I took Maximus away with me for the Christmas holidays so they may well be expecting his return with mine.

Debra writes: "You can have a vacation home there, but we won't get you back on US TV shows if you move there full time so not going to encourage THAT."

Answer: I have been considering going the alternate route of simply getting a vacation place.

Pontytail writes: "What do you think Akemi's mom thinks of you?"

Answer: She seems to think well enough of me to not force Akemi to pack up her bags and move to Osaka immediately.  So far, so good.

Jenny Robin writes: "I'm so sorry."

Answer: Thanks, Jenny.  Long time no see.  How's the book business?

 

Tagged: Akihabara, Anime, Hisashi Kishi, Jean-Paul Hevin, Star Bar, Tokyo Dining

February 3, 2012: Tokyo Day #7! Braving the cold! Kaiseki! Football Avenue! And it's all business! Sort of!

Woke up to an email from my friend, Sohaib, over at www.fictionalfrontiers.com informing me that the audio interview I did in support of my comic book series, Dark Matter, is up.  You can check it out here: http://bit.ly/yiGl0i.  We talk about making the transition from television to comic books, my years on Stargate, and the various mysteries (and clues!) that make up Dark Matter.  The second issue (Dark Matter #2 - what else?) hits store shelves February 8th.  Head on over to your local comic shop and reserve now to avoid disappointment!

In addition to Sohaib's email, I also received an update form my dog-sitter, Christine, informing me that the dogs are doing well.  Bubba and Lulu were thrilled to take a walk down to the local pet shop to stock up on treats while my old gal, Jelly, was equally thrilled to greet them (and the treats!) upon their return:

Bubba in "ready for walk" mode.

Lulu and Bubba check out their haul.

Jelly in her best "Do you realize what time it is? I've been worried sick. Nevermindjustgivemeatreat!" look.

Hey, I've been meaning to do a mini mailbag to answer a few questions, comment on your comments, and thank you all for taking the time to order Dark Matter.  Haven't had the time yet but maybe tonight!

As for what I did yesterday…

Akemi grew up in Osaka but spent four years living in Tokyo.  Despite this, there are some key areas of the city she has never visited – like, for instance, yesterday's mid-morning destination.  Akemi had a hankering for sukiyaki (more on that later) and had heard great things about the Ninyocho Imahan in – where else? – Ningyocho.

The streets of Ningyocho

It's an area full of old temples, so we thought we would get there early and stroll around a little before lunch.  On the surface, it seemed like a good idea but it turns out walking tours are a lot less pleasurable in -2 degree weather.  Especially when the wind picks up.

No, they don't serve bear.

Akemi seeks refuge in the warmth of a nearby bus shelter.

I'm pretty sure they aren't cabbage.

The Suitengu Shrine, visited by those seeking a safe childbirth or blessing on their children.

Apparently, visitors rub the dogs' heads for luck - which accounts for their discoloured patching.

According to Akemi, this is a Kappa an "alien or sneaky boy". By "alien", I believe she meant "spirit". She says she doesn't know much about them except for the fact "they live in the river (Have to be beautiful the river. Not a lot of garbage) and like cucumbers."

It got a little uncomfortably cold during our 2+ hour walk and, because most of the shops in the area didn't open until 11:00, we ended up wandering the aisles of the local conveniences stores to keep warm.  Finally, with 45 minutes still to go until our lunch reservation, Akemi got fed up and decided we should just show up and feign ignorance, pretend we'd simply assumed the reservation was for 11:30.  I was to follow her lead (keep my mouth shut and play the dumb gaijin who didn't speak Japanese).  Fortunately, we didn't need to resort to subterfuge because, soon after, we got lost and it took us almost 45 minutes to find the restaurant.

Ningyocho-Imahan. Found it!

The place resembles a restaurant of yore, lots of wood and narrow halls lined with private rooms behind sliding doors.  We were ushered into our private tatami room where we promptly ordered: the sukiyaki for Akemi and the kokaiseki for me.

Akemi looking decidedly warmer.

My kokaiseki meal apparently changes monthly, making use of fresh local ingredients to balance textures, colours and flavors in a multi-course meal that echoes a seasonal theme.  In my case, my meal seemed to offer hope for an early spring – something we could all get behind.

Anyway, I couldn't believe the amount of work that went into my lunch, both in terms of preparation and service.  This, for instance, was the menu which detailed the courses and their various ingredients.

!

The various dishes were works of art…

On the left mixed spring vegetables in dash topped with bonito. On the right, an anago mille-feuille (containing a layer of the sea eel in paste form), konnyaku, and more spring vegetables. At the center, cauliflower and natural gelatin shaped to resemble tofu.

The soup! The thinly sliced white daikon floating on top is meant to symbolize the ice that has formed over the various ponds and lakes. Beneath the surface floats a tiny radish and, nestled at the bottom, sits some perfectly poached snapper.

The sashimi plate consists of fresh tuna and snapper accompanied with daikon and shiso.

This heavenly tempura dish consisted of monkfish liver, bamboo shoot and a vegetable resembling broccolini, fried to a light crispy perfection and then served, sitting in dashi and topped with Japanese spices.

The grilled wagyu and meaty grilled mushroom. I picked up the carrot containing the yellow paste center and Akemi warned me not to eat it because it was Japanese mustard. "How hot could mustard be?"I asked before popping it in my mouth. Well, apparently, VERY HOT. My eyes started to tear and my throat and chest contracted and convulsed as I struggled to get it down. Warning: Japanese mustard bears NO resemblance to the western versions!

Akemi, meanwhile, loved her sukiyaki (as did I!):

The sukiyaki beef. Love that marbling!

The beef is simmered in a sweet sukiyaki broth.

Then served with a beaten egg.

The veggies are prepared in a similar manner.

While grazing on Akemi's lunch, I also received my next course…

Thinly sliced beef with mushroom and spring vegetable on rice.

And my dessert: vanilla ice cream and chocolate, sweet strawberry and orange canteen.

Akemi, sad the meal has ended.

On our way up to our tatami room, we removed our shoes which is the custom in many places in Japan (except, it turns out, the subway). We received this shoe check tag. Owing to some miscommunication on the way out, I ended up leaving with a pair of women's size 7 pumps.

After lunch, we headed over to Football Avenue where we visited with Akemi's uncle at the Japanese Football Museum.  He is a former player , a past member of Japan's 1985 World Cup team, coach of several J-League soccer teams, and is presently the Director of Youth Development for the Japan Football Association.

Gamba Osaka!

He gave us a tour of the museum which included a special screening room for soccer enthusiasts to watch the latest matches.  It contained the biggest indoor screen I've ever laid eyes on, roughly four times the size of the one in my home theater!  Before parting ways, he gifted us with a gift bag commemorating the recent World Cup win by the Japanese Women's team.  Among the items included was a bottle of special celebratory sake (Kanpai!) and this calendar:

According to Akemi's mother, this photo depicts the women receiving a "golden shower". That is, of course, when someone is showered with gold leaf and confetti. Don't believe me? Look it up!

I wanted to check out Akihabara (geek central!) but, instead, ended up joining Akemi and her mother for an exploration of the Tokyo Station surroundings.  Akemi was all sorts of excited to take me to a shop that made something called blizzards, frozen macarons, only to discover the shop had closed.  And she thought SHE was disappointed!  We settled for a stroll through Daimaru where I sampled some amazing purple yam dessert cakes.  I ended up buying a half-dozen and having two for breakfast this morning.

It's a cross between a pudding and cake! I'm going to have to stock up before I head back to Vancouver!

Last night, I had dinner at a place called Furu-ken.  It was a business meeting arranged by my friend Tomomi who, unfortunately, couldn't be there with us.  We drank beer, ate various small dishes -

...including this tasty fried fish...

- and talked television, food, and, most importantly, food television.  After dinner, my hosts, Soji and Toshi, took me to a unique little bar in Shibuya.  And I do mean "little"!

If you think this alley is narrow, wait until you get inside the bar.

Squeeze on in!

The Saya is about the size of my hotel bathroom, with seating for four along one narrow counter, and standing room for – on this night – five more.  It's a set-up that encourages conversation and, before long, I was knocking back sake and chatting away with the other customers, among them a Japanese clothing designer and three transplanted Brits.

The gang!

Koji-san braves the cold to show me around!

Toshi-san ready for our next stop on the late-night tour.

From there, we hopped a cab to Ebisu where we stopped in at Taverna Quale for a couple of glasses of wine and some terrific Italian food.  Yes, another meal!  We enjoyed tender baby octopus, margherita pizza, and a spectacular spaghetti aglio e olio.

Toshi-san kicks back.

Chef Kidoguchi!

It was sneaking toward 1:00 a.m. when I called it a night.  And what a night it was!

A huge thanks to both Koji-san and Toshi-san for being such terrific hosts.  Next up: yakitori?

Tagged: Furu-ken, Ninyocho-Imahan, Saya, Taverna Quale