A Guide to Collars for Fall

Last winter, turtlenecks became a mainstay within the public fashion narrative again. Prior to their tango with Céline, Dries Van Noten, Alexander Wang and the overall revival of a crisp fall day, year 1974, the shirt style was effectively owned by a) high school kids with an interest in performing arts who have no real acting salt and therefore found themselves manning backstage production, b) Steve Jobs, c) Amelia’s aunt from Philadelphia who seems to only exist within our conversations  and we’re talking about people who make good stuffing. Other than that, our shirting routines remained business-as-usual. Crewnecks were still crew. V’s never resumed the shape of W’s and button downs didn’t become button sideways, or anything.

For the imminent season, though, there are several new progeny of shirt collars coming up. There are ruffles and tie necks, slits and built-in chokers, so in the interest of a depleting August, here is a guide to understanding where you should spend your energy (and possibly $$money$$) in order to relish the days that make counting down until next summer that much more difficult. The upswing here is that wearing a Victorian collar makes you feel Downton Abbey regal. Shirt: 1, Weather: 0.

Series A: Victorian Collars

Like those that were seen in Salzburg last December at Chanel. These have been creeping into the zeitgeist for at least as long as George Washington has been considered a style icon, so if you have one, fantastic! Think about how you’d wear it with a deep-v sweater or crewneck jacket. If you don’t have one, see the below.

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Series B: Contrast-Color Pussy Bows

Or: the artist formerly known as black strings tied like bows to wear between your Peter Pan collars. This trend was more saliently on display during Fall’s Chloé presentation where in several instances, the flimsy, silk Peter Pan-collared shirts were worn with long pieces of skinny black fabric around their necks as if chokers or bows. This one is easy to achieve because you can buy or make your own Chloé bows and attach them to white shirts you already have. Check!

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Series C: Neck and Chest Slits

As seen at Sonia Rykiel, Dion Lee, on Amy Adams in American Hustle. I have none of these but like all of them.

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Series D: The T-Neck Continuation

The knit turtleneck (though still a thing) has evolved into the poplin turtleneck, creating great opportunities to put a big fat button at the tip of a woman’s neck as evidenced at Balenciaga. The thing you can do to accomodate this nuanced change in the way we cover our necks is either opt for a fabric scarf to tie around your neck, thus implementing a backside bow, or button your collared sweater way up to your chin then flip it/reverse it like you’re a Missy Elliott song.

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Collages by @RSTheory

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