Travel Diaries: Exploring Thevally – Part 2
Disclaimer
Please read the first part of the blog
here
to understand the full context.This blog reflects my personal travel experiences and thoughts. All opinions are my own and not intended as factual or political commentary. I’ve taken care not to share any sensitive or restricted information. 
Thevally BridgeThe Thevally Palace
As I crossed the Thevally bridge, I could see the Thevally Palace from behind the trees. I had already read about it online. The palace was built between 1811 and 1819, when Gauri Parvati Bai ruled this region. Kollam was part of the princely state of Travancore then. The colonial influence is evident in the palace’s architecture, which blends British, Dutch, and Portuguese styles.
I was disappointed when I found out that, despite being an important historical monument, the Thevally Palace was no longer a tourist location. Now, the building belongs to the PWD (Public Works Department) and the Indian Army, so it’s not even open to the public. It was repurposed as the NCC (National Cadet Corps) Group Headquarters of Kollam District.
As I reached the building, I talked to the security officer at the gate in broken Hindi (our conversation gave me a major reality check that if I want to navigate India on my own, I must improve my Hindi speaking skills ASAP). The officer politely explained that the place is not open to the public and photography is prohibited. He inquired about my job, place of residence, and purpose of visit. He was kind enough to let me see the building from the outside and appreciate its architecture. However, since it was a time of military conflicts and security threats in India, I didn’t want to be a nuisance to the officer or waste his time. So I thanked him and left soon.
Responsible Tourism in Times of Conflict
If I had visited the palace at any other time, say in a more politically peaceful climate, I would have written a paragraph lamenting the repurposing of a heritage site for military uses. Honestly, I still believe such historical sites should be earmarked as tourist locations and made open to the public. However, compared to what I saw at the police museum recently, I would support ‘repurposing’ over neglect any day.
Conversely, in the current state where war is a reality in my country, and the only reason I sleep peacefully at night or even dare to go on these trips is because we have an army that safeguards us from terrorists and enemy invasions, it somehow feels wrong to have such a discussion. Personally, I’m so relieved and grateful for the ceasefire agreement between India and Pakistan declared on May 12th, because I don’t believe there are any winners in wars, only losers. But I fear how long this ceasefire will stand. “Will the bordering states go into jeopardy again?” is a thought that keeps bothering the citizens of both countries, including me.
In other news, the government is pressing espionage cases against Indian vloggers who helped Pakistan by passing on critical information and locations to them. Arrests were made based on suspicions and evidence about the funding of these vloggers’ travels, their recent visits to Pakistan, and one instance where a lady vlogger was in touch with a Pakistani intelligence operative who groomed her to become an “asset” for Islamabad.
This sent me spiraling into thoughts about how I can travel and blog more responsibly during this turbulent time. How much restraint should I exercise in the kind of photos and content I share?
I want to travel all across India, document the experience, and share it with those who would be interested in reading it. But in the process, I don’t want to create a security threat for my country. So, my current decision is not to post any photos or details about any governmental or related buildings, unless it’s a popular tourist location.
Meen
Nameboard before the restaurants Meen and Asado.After walking out of the compound of the Thevally Palace, I crossed the road and walked down the side road that led to the premises of the restaurants Meen and Asado. Meen (meaning “fish” in Malayalam) is a restaurant owned by the famous Chef Pillai. Though I have heard rave reviews about the restaurant’s seafood dishes and ambiance, due to the costly menu, I prefer its neighbor, Asado, with the open-air seating, old music, and affordable dishes. Having said that, I’m looking forward to visiting Meen someday with my family.
Restaurant Meen by Chef Pillai in Thevally, Kollam.Asado
Night view of the restaurant Asado in Thevally, Kollam.As I walked around Meen, the smell of melting ghee wafted out from the restaurant. I paused for a moment, relishing it, before walking towards Asado. On my right, the beautiful Ashtamudi Lake flowed like a celestial stream with its heavenly breeze.
I occupied one of my favorite spots in Asado, an open-air table, and ordered an Oreo shake worth ₹80. I messaged my siblings and gave them my trip updates.
A nighttime glimpse of vibrant art adorning the walls of Asado.I asked the young bearded man who served me food if biryani was available, as I had not had my lunch, and also because my brother had inquired about it. We are biriyani fanatics. But the man said they had cancelled it from the menu, as sales were less. Grilled items and wraps were still their best sellers.
I’ve met this young, bearded man in my previous visits also, but I had never noticed that he has a unique spacing between his teeth and a beautiful smile. I also observed that they have started growing guppies on the premises. Guppies are a weakness for me. During the COVID-19 pandemic, I had loads of guppies as pets. But as my work became more hectic and the pet fish population in my house exploded, I had to give away most of them to my nephew, who has big tanks in his house.
Milma Dairy Plant
Nameboard of the Milma Dairy Plant.Next up on my list was the Milma Dairy Plant. But on the way to Meen/Asado, I had asked a lady at the Thevally palace bus stop for directions to the Milma Plant. She warned me that only the shop is open to the public now. If I want to visit the plant, I have to revisit in November.
“November 26th is National Milk Day in India; celebrated annually, it commemorates the birth anniversary of Dr. Verghese Kurien, who is known as the ‘Milkman of India’.”
This news was a bummer for me. Still, I walked to the Milma plant and rechecked with the security person. He confirmed that unless it’s a trip from a school or college, outsiders are not allowed now. I must wait till November to visit the plant. To make up for my disappointment, I went to the Milma store on the premises and bought one bottle of mango-milk juice, two sip-ups: one chocolate-flavored and another strawberry-flavored, and one packet of sambaram (buttermilk), all for ₹60.
Retracing
Just then, I remembered that I had forgotten to buy the sweet-and-spicy snack mix that my brother had asked me to get from the church premises. So I retraced my steps all the way to the church where I had started my journey, and bought some ginger jaggery and the snack mix from the festivities-special, newly cropped up snack shops.
I chit-chatted with the vendor for some time. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that he lived near my old school. We talked about the school, its lost splendor, the locality, the old teachers, and the students who made it big. He even inquired if I was working. When I told him I was, he looked confused… probably wondering why I was roaming around the church grounds so early on a Friday evening, if I had a job. I smiled at him, said goodbye, and caught a bus to High School Junction, and another to my home.
Lessons Learnt
Craving for more – I was hoping to strike off a lot of items from my to-visit and to-experience lists with this India trip. Though I could strike off the much-awaited ‘Kayalvaram’ visit from my to-do list, a few new items also got added to the list.
Go fishing someday.Boating in the Ashtamudi Lake again (I’ve done it once during childhood).Revisit the Milma Dairy Plant in November.Dine at Meen someday.Start working on my Hindi.Visit the Ornamental fish hatchery in Thevally. Visit the Quilon Aquaponics Training Centre in Mathilil, Kollam.It seems like there is no end to human wishes. Accomplishing one dream or goal will only lead to more. 
Again, I talk to myself. Whenever you find companionship, you can revisit these places with them and create cherishable memories. But right now, this is an endeavor, a vast project that’s only valuable to you. It is unfair to expect anyone else to accompany you to every place you visit. They have their own lives and timelines to keep up with.
Besides, the whole point of this trip is to get to know your country better, from your perspective. As a byproduct, you could also get to know yourself better, heal your wounds, become wiser, and gain more courage and clarity to face this life with grace. Don’t worry. Do it alone. Do it at your speed. Do it, messy and imperfect. Just do it.
Journey Home
As I walked home, I noticed that the bandage on my foot was almost giving away. My watch showed that I had covered 6023 steps, an approximate distance of 5 kilometers. Would my blister get worse? I worried for a second. But more than the blister, it was the loneliness and hopelessness that were weighing me down.
Just then, I noticed the migrant laborers working in the workshop nearby. Their faces looked tired, and their hands were greasy. I also observed the people working tirelessly in the row of small shops that led to my place.
A melancholic thought started swirling in my mind: “Maybe we are all just travelers in strange lands, walking around with unhealed blisters in our hearts.”
Still, we trudge along. We persevere. We don’t give up when things get hard, no matter how distant or lonely that finish line seems. That right there is the beauty of human resilience.
