Luxury on Rails

I LOVE TO TRAVEL—and it runs in the family. My parents were avid travelers, with my father receiving a generous travel allowance from his work every four years.

In addition, my father always managed his time and budget for numerous other trips. After his passing, my brother and I took turns maintaining the travel tradition with our mom, until plans were disrupted by the pandemic.

After retiring this year, I eagerly anticipated visiting my mother in India and taking her on a grand tour. I’d considered several options, ranging from an African safari to a leisurely tour of Vietnam. I called my mother to finalize our plans.

To my surprise, she wasn’t as enthusiastic as I’d hoped. In her late 70s, she was uncertain about traveling overseas because of her chronic back pain and lack of confidence in her strength. I was disappointed but didn’t give up. I continued searching for suitable options that might work for her.

I vaguely recalled hearing about luxurious train tours of India that were popular with foreign tourists. It dawned on me that, while my mother had been to most of India’s tourist spots, she might be interested in a fresh and unique experience. With renewed hope, I opened my laptop to research luxury train travel in India.

My search revealed several such trains that attract affluent retirees from around the world. These tours cater to people with mobility challenges, or to those who might feel uneasy traveling in India on their own.

Just like a small-group luxury cruise, these trains provide a hassle-free, all-inclusive experience with a focus on safety, care and comfort. A common theme across these different trains was a hefty price tag, quite steep by Indian standards.

My mother was intrigued and seemed open to the idea, particularly because she loved traveling by train. Adding to the allure, my aunt—who I’ve written about in a previous article—was able to join us. Without further hesitation, I made a reservation before they could change their minds.

A train named Deccan Odyssey looked promising, but I struggled to find reliable contact information due to changes in ownership after the pandemic. I took a chance and reached out to the most intuitively named website. It turned out to be one of the tour’s few authorized agents.

Soon, a real person contacted me with a price quote. Since we were three passengers, I opted for the pricier suite, rather than a regular cabin for two. The cost—even with a low-season discount—was steep enough to give me pause, but I overcame my reluctance, figuring that money is only valuable when used to fulfill deeply personal goals, such as sharing a once-in-a-lifetime experience with people closest to my heart.

Everything was arranged in time and, on a pleasant March afternoon, we departed from Kolkata and headed to New Delhi, the starting point of our tour. Sadly, the train tour itself got off to a rough start.

We arrived at the designated train station in New Delhi at 5 p.m. as instructed, only to find that the train was delayed due to an emergency. The company tried to make the wait more bearable by providing refreshments and live entertainment to the passengers.

The train eventually arrived after 10 p.m., and the staff promptly assisted all passengers with boarding. Inside, the train was absolutely stunning, like a miniature five-star hotel on wheels. A personal butler and an attendant guided us to our suite and gave us an overview of the amenities.

Our suite featured a bedroom with a twin bed, another room with a sofa bed and writing desk, and two ensuite bathrooms with showers. The rooms had panoramic windows, blackout curtains, beautiful decor and fresh flowers. It was beyond anything we’d imagined.

It was time for dinner, so we headed to the onboard restaurant through a series of plush, carpeted corridors and elegantly decorated coaches. The restaurant’s impeccable service and gourmet menu could rival any fine-dining experience in an upscale hotel.

We enjoyed our sumptuous dinner and headed back to our suite. The tour manager soon came by to introduce herself and offer another sincere apology for the unexpected delay. “We’ll make up for the inconvenience,” she said.

We all slept soundly that night, thanks not only to the long and tiring wait, but also to the soothing, rhythmic motion of the train. The next morning, as we gazed at the tranquil landscape outside our windows, someone knocked at the door. It was our butler with morning tea and the attendant to make our beds.

We reached Agra, the city of the Taj. Stepping off the train onto the carpeted platform reserved for us, we were greeted with fresh garlands and a tilaka on our foreheads. A small troupe of artists danced to the folk tunes of the shehnai and dhol, transforming the platform into a ceremonial stage.

Our private guide led us to our SUV for the daylong city tour. Our first destination was the Taj Mahal. Although my mother and aunt had seen it before, it was my first time visiting. The site was very crowded. Only after we got inside could I see why it’s called one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

We had a fabulous lunch at a posh restaurant. My mother, feeling a bit worn out, suggested that we stick to the less strenuous sights in the afternoon. After our sightseeing, the car dropped us at the train station entrance, where our butler and a security guard were waiting to walk us back to the train. The dinner that evening featured local specialties.

The next day, we reached Sawai Madhopur, the gateway to the Ranthambore National Park. At the station, we experienced another welcoming ceremony, this time reflecting the culture of the state of Rajasthan. We then boarded a safari vehicle and entered the tiger reserve, where we saw an abundance of birds and animals. We were also fortunate to spot a tiger up close, though only for a short while.

The next few days flew by as we traveled across four states in a week. Each morning, we arrived at a new place, relished the grand reception and set out for our excursions. We toured the Pink City of Jaipur and drove up to the Amer Fort, marveled at the exquisite crystal collections at the City Palace of Udaipur, and enjoyed a vibrant cultural performance inside the majestic Laxmi Vilas Palace of Vadodara.

Our next destination was to visit the Ellora Caves near the city of Aurangabad. Despite the scorching sun, the wheelchair services allowed my mother and my aunt to comfortably admire the great Kailasa Temple, a remarkable monolithic rock-cut structure renowned for its intricate carvings and grand architecture.

Just as we were getting accustomed to its luxury and extravagance, our train reached its final destination of Mumbai, where another treat awaited me. Smith and Sabya, two dear friends who live in Mumbai, visited us at our hotel. We strolled down Marine Drive, savored street food, and laughed and chatted just like old times. That evening—and the entire train trip—has become one of my most treasured memories.

Sanjib Saha retired early from software engineering to dedicate more time to family and friends, pursue personal development and assist others as a money wellness mentor. Self-taught in investments, he passed the Series 65 licensing exam as a non-industry candidate. Sanjib is the president and co-founder of Dollar Mentor, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization offering free investment and financial education. Follow his nonprofit on LinkedIn, and check out Sanjib's earlier articles.

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