Braised Agrodolce Chestnuts with Pears and Bacon

 

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The holidays herald many things, including chestnut season. And I love the romance of roasting them by an open fire (or, you know, in the oven) and then peeling them while they are still warm and toasty, savoring the crisp, fresh, sweet nut with a mug of mulled wine, cue the Nat King Cole. 

But here's what I don't love: Having to peel pounds of them to use in a stuffing or other recipe. So usually, despite my father's brilliant method for peeling chestnuts efficiently, I cop out and buy a jar of roasted peeled nuts instead. And while they are okay in terms of flavor, the texture is shot. Jarred peeled nuts have lost all their crispness and are soggy and mushy - perfeclty fine for making a creamy chestnut tart (I love this recipe) but not so hot when you want some crunch.

But this autumn, I learned something new about chestnuts after I was sent some dried specimens from a lovely Oregon orchard called Ladd Hill. I was suspicious at first.  I'd never used dried chestnuts before because the ones I'd always seen where broken in pieces with a gray cast - they looked more like stones than nuts. But these were different - big, beige and handsome, they looked like actual chestnuts out of the shell, except they were hard instead of soft.

I just followed the package instructions to reconstitute them:  cover dried chestnuts with water in a pan, bring to a boil and then simmer for five minutes, and then let them stand for an hour.  Then simply drain them and they're ready to be incorporated into any recipe that calls for chestnuts. 

Easy! And, you know what? Good! Much better  than jarred chestnuts; they were a bit sweeter and a bit texturally toothier.  They worked beautifully in this recipe for a great Thanksgiving side—Braised Agrodolce (Italian for "sweet and sour") Chestnuts, with delicate pears and savory bacon (home cured by the wonderful Larry Liang, who schlepped me pounds of it when he came to NYC for a visit, thanks Larry!). Use the pepperiest bacon you can find, unless you happen to know Larry and he's willing to give you some of his.

This dish is perfect with turkey, but don't ditch it after TG is over. Dried chestnuts store really well, so keep this recipe on hand to pull out all winter long. I'll bet it would be fantastic with other roasted meats or fowl - especially duck or roast lamb or beef. Saute some kale or chard on the side and you've got a princely meal.

Dried chestnuts are truly something to be thankful for.

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Agrodolce Chestnut Compote with Pears and Bacon

Makes 6 to 8 servings

 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup dried chestnuts, reconstituted, or 1 3/4 cup fresh, shelled chestnuts

1 large yellow onion, peeled, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise

1 bay leaf

1 thyme sprig

1/3 cup port wine

3 firm Bosc pears, peeled

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more, to taste

3 ounces bacon, cut into 1/2-inch chunks

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

 

1. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Add the chestnuts and cook until golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a plate.

2. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter to the pan. Add the onion, bay leaf, and thyme. Cook, stirring, until onions are golden brown and tender, about 15 minutes.

3. Return the chestnuts to the pan. Add the port and cook 1 minute. Stir in the pears, salt, and 1/2 cup water. Cover pan, reduce heat to medium, and simmer mixture gently until pears are tender and slightly floppy, about 15 minutes.

4. While the pears cook, brown the bacon in a separate skillet over medium heat.

5. When the pears are cooked through, uncover the pan and stir in the bacon and its fat, the vinegar, and the black pepper. Cook 1 minute; serve warm.