Leandra Medine's Blog, page 45

Eliz’s Expert Guide to Finding the Best Stuff on Poshmark

If you read my recent Etsy shopping guide, then you’re already aware that I tend to shop with a purpose—I’m not much of a browser, nor do I tend to buy more than one thing at a time. When I find myself on Poshmark, it’s usually because I’m looking for a specific second-hand contemporary designer piece that’s deeply discounted. That’s the site’s gently worn bread and butter, if you will. (Think: a pair of Re/Done jeans or a Ralph Lauren blazer from 10 years back.) Poshmark is definitely designer for bulk buyers (more on that below), I’ve found, but if you’re like me, you can still dig up amazing items if you know how to search cleverly. (One important note, though: Poshmark doesn’t authenticate items so you’ll need to do all the research on your own—including messaging sellers for details.)

Secret Search Tactics

This may sound insane but sometimes spelling mistakes take you straight to the best items. (For example, results come up when you search “Chanle” instead of “Chanel!”) This goes for obscure searches too. Typing in a garment’s style name makes shopping easy, but if you’re willing to put in more time, some of the best deals I’ve landed on came via a really intricate string of adjectives.

If you’re open to obscure designers or brands you’re not familiar with, try searching sans brand names. “Burgundy french oxford platform” could score you a pair of $100 designer oxfords, while searching specific names you already know might filter that pair out. Sellers who are aware of the most coveted brands will be more competitive about pricing than those who don’t know all the details about the items. I actually got the Carel ones I’m wearing in the feature photo by doing this! I don’t think the seller knew what Carel was and I benefited from that.

If you happen to be looking for a burgundy oxford like I was, I would search a bunch of different terms to see what’s out there and “like” the contenders. For example, I’d search “burgundy loafers” “red loafers” “dark red loafers” “dark red oxfords” and just keep going with slight changes to see the different curations. The final search might be where you find your dream pair!

Costco but Make It Fashion: Use the Bundle Feature

While this doesn’t really benefit someone like me, if you like to buy in bulk or like to get a bunch of items at once from single shops, Poshmark has a ton of benefits for serious bulk shoppers and shoppers loyal to specific sellers.

If you like a bunch of items from one seller—enough to purchase all of them—you should “bundle” them together to save on shipping and have the opportunity to negotiate prices.

Be Patient: Make an Offer > Buy It Now

On Poshmark, there’s a ‘Buy It Now’ button and a ‘Make an Offer’ button. When you make an offer it’s binding if the seller accepts it within the set timeframe of 24 hours.

A “Like” Button Worthy of Your Love

I mentioned the “like” feature up above and honestly, it’s my favorite Poshmark feature. It’s like saving an item on Instagram—it organizes the things you’re eyeing but perhaps not ready to jump on. It also enables notifications on these items like price reductions or sales. It’s really easy to reference on the Poshmark app, so I sometimes use this to curate looks (for styling purposes, too! It’s like a digital paper doll).

Schmooze With the Seller

You should definitely know your measurements or shop with brands whose sizes you’re familiar with. But don’t be uncomfortable asking for measurements from a seller. I’ve found sellers are more than happy to go the extra step and get those to you. You can also contact the seller to check on tracking (since often times Poshmark doesn’t send you exact tracking number but rather lets you know the status of the shipment).

Because you’re working with the sellers, if you don’t like something you should definitely contact them and see if they’d be open to taking the item back. That being said, if they are not so nice as to accept a return, Poshmark will favor the buyer when a complaint about the condition of item or legitimacy of the item is made and will pay for a return label! Honestly, take two minutes and read the Posh Protect policy if you’re worried.

One more thing to note… you can cancel an order placed with the “Buy Now” button within three hours of the order being placed! (That’s enough time for a cocktail to wear off a bit.) And, don’t forget: Like with Etsy, bad photos don’t mean bad product!

Photos by Beth Sacca.

The post Eliz’s Expert Guide to Finding the Best Stuff on Poshmark appeared first on Man Repeller.

33 One-Sentence Reviews From New York Fashion Week

Man Repeller’s famous (in niche circles) one-sentence reviews are BACK and better than ever (I predict), so floss your teeth and tie your shoelaces, my elegant mongooses (just Googled and the plural of mongoose is regrettably not “mongeese”). We’ll be whipping up dispatches like they’re the fashion week equivalent of egg whites, occasionally light on actual fashion but perpetually heavy on the spice that is LIFE ITSELF–the emotions, the celebrity sightings, the subway delays, the elaborate snacks, the joy of staring at the back of a familiar head, etcetera! This page will be updated once a day, every morning, with the prior day’s insights and observations, so don’t forget to check back. See you in the comments.

Day Seven
Michael Kors

Orville Peck performed at Michael Kors!!! I didn’t know who he was until my older brother commented on my Instagram stories, following a showdown of Who Wore it Bests wherein he (unwittingly) and I competed in a battle of the suede fringe jacket; he (my brother) was expressing enthusiasm because I was in his (Orville Peck’s) presence–but anyway, the clothes: same old, great, dependable Michael Kors and, I have to say, a jolt of inspiration for me and getting dressed after a week of feeling pretty uninspired if I am being perfectly upfront; the collection was like a cross between Richard Gere’s 1980’s style and the English countryside where Princess Diana probably parked her horses–I think I’m really going to lean into it, starting tonight with a blue button-down shirt tucked into a pair of wool khaki trousers, tucked into black riding boots. Same old great dependable Michael Kors meets my same old great dependable closet. —Leandra

Marc Jacobs

Woahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Full story on this forthcoming. —Leandra

Day Six
Khaite

Have you ever been to a bar on the Upper East Side? Many underage residents of the neighborhood frequent the haunts that speckle the city blocks from Lenox Hill to Carnegie but none of them would wear any of these clothes—not to frequent those bars, at least (a leopard print, bubble-hem mini dress is far too elevated for such debauchery)—but take the uptown youth, whether de facto of the neighborhood or not, off the Upper East Side, throw her into the gallery district of Chelsea where nightclubs used to come alive between the hours of 11 p.m and 4 a.m. and you might find the same kind of energy these clothes evince: a budding woman, rebellious by every mean available to her, still ingratiated in a world she’s sure she’ll break away from. How else could you explain the prints and teeny tiny shorts and electric kitten heels? Of course, what we think we know at the end of our teens and into our 20s is rarely what is true, and if the rich suede coats and screen printed scarf blouses, delectable tapered trousers and perfectly prim totes styled to offset the tough edge of the rest of the collection indicate anything, it’s that you can’t ever really take the uptown out of the girl. Even, I should say, if she’s never been there. —Leandra

Eckhaus Latta

At Eckhaus the editors always sit second row to the cool kids—which probably makes sense, since the brand has never been interested in bowing to the establishment (shit… am I the establishment?), with its consistently hard-to-parse, almost trendless collections and shows located in hard-to-reach locations—but this was my worst seat at Eckhaus yet: I was not permitted a front view of any outfit, only the side, and only for a quarter second before it was whisked away, and at this I had to laugh; the signature knit tops and vinyl pants and going-out dresses were literally inaccessible to me, but maybe they already were—in the end I had no choice but to be impressed, even as I questioned where my seat would be next time (somewhere in the East River?). —Haley

Gabriela Hearst

A huge wheel of Parmesan was placed at the center of two large tables filled with food at the entrance of Gabriela Hearst, a plea no doubt to feed the attendants of her Fall 2020 show with more than just fashion, though I should say these clothes skew less fashion and more just, clothes (a difference I’ve had at the top of my mind this week), thanks to the dependable one-and-done long sleeve open neck dresses and overwhelming nubby knit robes. —Leandra

Day Five
Oscar de la Renta

9 p.m. is very late for a fashion show to begin on a Monday night in the middle of February but I’m not here to complain, or sweep rain, and honestly, some clothes really do have the ability to perk you the hell up; the first time that happened last night at Oscar de la Renta was in response to a black blazer with floral embroidery in the right corner, taking the place of a prom corsage for this grown up attempt at embodying the modern woman, and lest I forget her silk charmeuse scarf! Flowing like butter on a pan, or whatever. Then there was the larger than life mullet skirt—black tie to be sure but flipped on its head, thanks to a pair of thigh-high duck boots in leather (though there were examples of these shoes in velvet too) and finally—finale!—the feathered-skirt velvet-turtlenecked dress to end all red carpet commentary. Where were you at the Oscars? —Leandra

Puppets and Puppets

I came into the Puppets and Puppets AW20 show knowing very little about the indie label— having only taken some brain space to ponder the name: Why “Puppets and Puppets”? Who are in the first set of puppets and who are in the second? What kind of puppets are we talking? Harling, Eliz, and I congregated in a ballroom in Midtown and ogled the crowd of obscenely cool, young artist types—this was not your usual editor/buyer fashion show fare. The looks themselves, kicked off by a full priest habit with a twist (a cookie belt), were worn by a who’s who of young New York creatives, like Danny Bowien, Caroline Polachek, and Richie Shazam. They included but were sure as hell not limited to: a nude “power mesh” body stocking and merkin thong worn by a pregnant Alexandra Marzella, a spandex leotard with a space hood and Tiffany blue horns, and a velvet princess hat with an 11-yard organza train. My mouth was agape for the duration, but was met with a smirk near the end because I love shit like this. I love when artists say to fashion week “Guess what? How about this.” How. about. It. —Amalie

Proenza Schouler

I was a little distracted by the conversations I struck up with Emily Ratajowski about the difference between being an only child and having siblings (she is the former) and Eva Chen about her Carnegie Hill mom outfit (tapered ivory trousers and a light brown sweater with kitten heels) to really sink my teeth into the 8 p.m. show that was Proenza Schouler, but the lamé tank dresses smacked me right back into reality, if only to admire the flapping wings hanging onto one such number as if a backpack that doubles as a very luxurious sleeping bag and another set wrapped around the model. Sometimes you just need a hug, you know? Oh! And per the shoes, did you ever have those plush shower flip-flops at camp that were like walking on marshmallows? They’re designer heels now. #Blessed. —Leandra

Veronica Beard

You know the blazer in your closet you always wear for a day of important meetings? That sweater that never gets put away (all hail the dumping chair) because you always want to wear it? The pair of simple but flattering black pants that never let you down? The one coat you constantly reach for even though you have several? Those are the types of clothes that Veronica Beard showcased today—styles that don’t intimidate, but always impress. These are clothes that make you feel glamorous and comfortable at the same time—a balance perfectly expressed by the crystal fringe embellished LBD that a pregnant Hillary Rhoda wore to close the show. —Elizabeth

Carolina Herrera

I woke up this morning when Austin’s very early alarm went off with one of the biggest emotional hangovers of my entire life born, no doubt, from too much sugar and too little rest courtesy of my action-packed weekend, so I pulled a pillow over my head and went back to sleep for another HOUR, which felt positively decadent, and definitely put me in a better frame of mind to step inside the refined, white-carpeted world of Carolina Herrera–even from the very back row. I apologize in advance that my brain wheels are currently greased by wedding thoughts, but please join me in ogling one of the most perfectly ethereal white dresses I’ve ever seen. In non-wedding observations, I can’t wait to recreate this excellent alt-black-tie outfit idea: black trousers and a white button-down with a dramatic bustier layered on top. —Harling

The Row

What do you expect from The Row if not the most subtle styling tips to apply either to the wardrobe you already have or the one you’d like to imagine—here are the basics: balaclavas are going nowhere but they are now way more subdued; if you want to pair a blazer with an overcoat, make it a single—not double—breast; yes, you can wear sandals as boots, you’ll just need the right socks; and if you’ve ever felt like you can’t be both a navy person and a brown person, think again!!!!!!!!! Maybe don’t pair both with black in the same outfit but heather camel is fair game. —Leandra

Day Four
Chromat

If you asked me last week if I thought I’d spend Sunday night at a place called #RiseByWe, a gym operated by WeWork, watching a strength-training session, its participants dressed in ROYGBIV gradients reminiscent of the Speedo one-pieces you may have worn to swimming lessons as a child, I probably would have said “no” and moved on pretty quickly. But life can surprise you sometimes. So there I stood last night, underground at the Chromat show, watching models like Kimberly Drew and Alok demonstrate how it’s done (all in service of “protesting the exclusionary gender binary that has come to define the Olympics”), completely envious of their spunky energy and flexible range of motion in the face of a steadily creeping Monday morning. —Edith

Collina Strada

This season’s Collina Strada show took place at The Dance, a new(ish) nightclub formerly known as ”that place where I had a weird time on my husband’s birthday.” I was excited by the prospect of rewriting this association with some help from Collina Strada, but, as luck would have it, another “weird time” was had. The clothes themselves were true to what Collina Strada is known for—they were easy-to-wear, environmentally-friendly pieces that echo the sentiments and political fixations of the moment. This time, though, designer Hillary Taymour took a sunny approach to the topic of global warming, sending her models into the show’s garden set wearing bright prints and carrying rakes, hoes, and spades. Reception in the audience was subdued, as viewers were either too packed into the small space to murmur amongst themselves or, more hopefully, mulling over how to best process this steamy hothouse vision of the future. The best moment of the show was when Paramore’s Hayley Williams closed out the evening with a powerful performance of her new song ‘Simmer.’ Everyone stayed seated to watch until a collective groove took over the room–proof that clothes are always only one part of getting the bigger picture. —Ruby

Sies Marjan

Have you ever owned a pair of real Dutch clogs? I’ve had like ten pairs (of clogs) over the years but none have actually been Dutch and I’ve never even known I want a pair until a parade of men’s looks from Sies Marjan’s Fall 20 range marched the runway on the 59th floor of a building with floor to ceiling glass windows overlooking New York. They were paired with gold-accented denim and a trench, one white pajama set with small floral renderings printed on it (my look to be sure) and on the women, more delicate pairs combined with chunky socks and the most gorgeous shades of yellow and green and pink and beige. Sometimes I wonder: what’s the difference between color and Color. It’s Sies. (Can I call it that?) —Leandra

Bevza

One of my biggest sartorial frustrations is when a shirt doesn’t tuck properly. Another is when a long vest or coat or blazer constricts me too much OR bunches up against whatever I have layered underneath. At Bevza, designer Svetlana Bevza considered it all: the long shirts had side slits up to the models’ hips. A brown button down was tailored on the sides so that you could tuck it in the front without it looking bulky or like a weird unintentional tail. The blazers had cuts in the back so that they flared out to give them a touch of femininity. It was like Bevza read all the “dressing struggle”-related comments on Man Repeller and then designed a collection to solve for everything. THANK YOU. —Elizabeth

Brock

There are two kinds of people in the world, those who pair navy with black (nee Phoebe Philo) and those who pair brown with black (nee Miuccia Prada)—Brock is the latter and what you get as a result is this, like, deeply feminine, romantic collection of clothes that Harling described pretty perfectly as “Little Women but make it fashion.” Today the models wore layers of embroidered tulle over their faces and hair, tucked back with their ponytails to create a sort of “sporty bride” head. Their brown suede not-quite-knee-length boots, which were flat, signaled my burgeoning-trend-o-meter because they were the same practical height as the ones I saw at Tory Burch this morning. One styling tip I’ll take away blends a thin leather waist belt with a silk scarf, rolled up really skinny to tie above or below said belt, leaving a pointed end at the middle point, peeking out from behind. And as for that white gown? Someone! Anyone! Please. Host a garden wedding. —Leandra

Area

I was the first in line (a first and likely a last) for the Area show this morning, hosted at the Africa Center on 109th St and Fifth Ave, the interior of which could be aptly described by a 2004 David Byrne song I’ve been listening to this week called “Glass, Concrete, & Stone.” Through the big, brutalist windows, you could see passersby with strollers and kids and big winter coats looking in and considering the spectacle from a slight remove: What were they thinking about the clothes (and the robotic, synchronized way the attendees watched them through their phones)? Were they surprised by when the model revealed a heart-shaped cut-out in the back of a short dress? Did they wonder about the hair, styled in a ponytail wrapped around the models’ necks? What struck me about this show was how it could outfit and appeal to so many different people—those who prefer full coverage or those who tend toward the scantily clad; those in search of a quintessential 90s going-out-dress and those who covet something with a strong sleeve; those who like a sheer tight or those who opt for a bare leg; those who want their clothes to do some of the talking, to break the ice, but leave them room to do the rest. —Edith

Tory Burch

Welcome to Sunday morning at Sotheby’s during fashion week, where the espresso beans are Sant Ambroeus-branded and the runway show is also an art installation featuring human-size candelabras. I should tell you that I was seated next to two of the stars of Cheer, and everyone was losing their shit! They were both wearing full Tory Sport looks, and one of them thought her hair looked terrible but I can assure you it looked great and the pink sweater/skirt combo in the triptych above was there purely because they both mentioned how much they loved it. Anyway, here are a few things I picked up on: strapless garments are coming back, and we’re being asked to wear them with boots; the best coat option for next winter, if you are not interested in a cropped, low-key aviator-inspired style to pair with your skinny jeans and thigh-high, drawstring boots is 10/10 a robe coat; square-toe shoes are coming back in a more mainstream way—sorry denizens of the Lower East Side! And finally, an army green sweater with electric red trouser pants tucked into embroidered pointed toe boots appears to be the simple styling template and color combination no one wanted to see coming but we will, no doubt, be taking. I can lead if you want. —Leandra

Day Three
Laquan Smith

I would give my left arm to someday possess half the glamour of the Laquan Smith woman. The utter sex appeal of this show!!! Texture, big boots, and bodycon ran amok, or, I guess, catwalked. Strutted. It reminded me of the runway shows of the 90s where the women were so bodied and the walks were so luxe that all you could do was stare slack-jawed. Wish I could have grabbed a pair of quilted puffer boots or metallic pants on the way out as everyone was clearly off to continue their elegant, sexy party and I was off to inhale a bowl of pasta. —Amalie

Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson is known for her satin, crotchet, and lace garments, but for me, her show this season was all about the accessories. Long gloves and scrunched knee-high knit socks paired with sandals and corset belts complemented the clothing well and showed the versatility of the designs: wear your floral dress to work with a blazer and then swap it for a corset belt and sexy long gloves on a night out. For my purposes, I’ve now figured out a warm enough way to walk the Williamsburg Bridge in a dress once again: just add a tall knit sock! —Elizabeth

Sandy Liang

The energy at the door of Sandy Liang was somewhat manic–a slew of shivering humans waiting in line to get in, and frenzied publicists scrambling to write people’s seat assignments on notecards as quickly as possible. Once we made our way inside and sat down–on a row of benches inside the lobby of Stuyvesant (a public high school in Tribeca)–it was as if the room let out a collective sigh of contentment, and that’s before we even saw the clothes! Which were good by the way, and markedly different from the brand’s prior collections, erring on the side of pared-down (save for a few eyeball-patterned pieces) and firmly conjuring the realities of an actual woman’s wardrobe instead of simply the runway version of it. I’ve always enjoyed Sandy Liang’s collections, but this one felt like a tangible turning point–a demonstration of her ability to the streamlined mood that is permeating the industry at the moment, but not without sneaking in a little human anatomy while she’s at it. —Harling

R13

WHEW! Fun fact about me: I thought I was a punk in my youth. I wore platform Doc Martens and heavy eyeliner and leather jackets and smoked CIGARETTES (sorry mom!), so I can say with certainty that 2009 Amalie would have flipped her little lid for this R13 runway. And the sweet thing is: I think that tiny punk bird still flutters inside my heart, so as I watched these comically large bowler hats and chunkzilla shoes and oversized jackets that could fit three grown men in them thunder down the runway, I felt alive in a way that I haven’t in a bit. There’s a 50% chance that in 3 years, I return to my roots. I’ll probably be wearing R13. —Amalie

Hellessy

I spent the majority of the Hellessy show looking at the models’ feet, which–before you accuse me of being the pervert that I 100% am–were the style star of the show. There were monochromatic pairings of white or black socks and delicate lace-up sandals corseted over pants (reminiscent of this trend that Harling Ross forecasted back in resort season). The clothes themselves were a field day of silk, velvet, brocade, and tweed all harnessed by effortless designs. Catch me wearing this oversized sweater someday soon, playfully slapping everyone I know with the sleeves. —Amalie

Susan Alexandra

Susan Alexandra’s show invite this year described it as a musical, but even when it opened with a splashy musical number I was still convinced the term was being used loosely. Absolutely incorrect!!! This was a full-on 30-minute original musical worthy of Broadway. Starring a mix of comedians and actors I recognized from her past presentations, it followed a semi-autobiographical story about Susan gathering the courage to open a store in Soho. Damn, I can’t figure out how to explain this without making it sounding dumb, but the truth is it was the coolest and most creative show I’ve seen in the eight fashion weeks I’ve attended. Nobody could stop smiling. The songs are in my head! Fashion week is so often about spectacle, and this was definitely that, but it was also different in that it actually offered more than Instagram fodder (in fact, it didn’t really translate via iPhone at all). It felt almost vintage in that way. The prevailing feeling as everyone walked out was that it couldn’t have happened anywhere but New York. —Haley

Christopher John Rogers

This evening marked my second time sitting in front of a Christopher John Rogers runway, and once again it was evident that this former up-and-comer has fully and completely arrived—as evidenced by his power to put on a show with the kind of qualities I fantasized about before working in the industry: a great soundtrack, literal smoke, fun lighting, clothes so dramatic they make your breath catch in your throat, and a crowd that freely whoops and cheers with every modelesque flourish. And most important of all, nothing felt overwrought, or piled on simply for the sake of a compelling Instagram—it was a genuine expression of joy and artistry, right down to Rogers’ show-stealing final bow. —Harling

Tibi

At the Tibi presentation (which was chock-full of clever references to air travel–from neck rests that double as coat collar decor to airport-branded socks), I ran into the brand’s president Elaine, who started talking to me about the experience of decorating an apartment. “You really have to seek out stuff that’s fun to look out but super practical at the same time,” she said, and we both locked eyes and knew exactly what the other person was thinking: Tibi. Tibi! The reason it appeals season after season is its ability to harmoniously combine these things that are so often at odds with each other, and this new collection was no exception–with beautifully tailored pants, skirts cut in swaths of structured fabric, sweaters rendered in the perfect shade of “oat milk latte,” and shoes that look like black-tie versions of airline slippers. —Harling

Adam Lippes

Oftentimes fashion shows are either about having fun or trying to solve problem, but rarely both. At the Adam Lippes show this morning—where breakfast and some of the best berries I’ve eaten all winter was served—corporate dressing problems were addressed with playful aplomb. The wrap-around runway, which was the path between tables at the new Verōnika restaurant upstairs at Fotografiska (which apparently has a long reservation waitlist), featured models wearing extra-long flared sleeve lurex tops (the kind you can push up your elbow while you type), the pointiest blazer shoulders possible (that can still fit under your commuter coat), and ruffled shirts peeking out of sweater collars (the plain white shirt’s delightfully weird older sibling). It was a show that answered the oft-ignored but evergreen question: “How can I have fun getting dressed for work?” —Elizabeth

Day Two
PH5

Walking up to the Ph5 presentation, located at the Standard Highline, I was almost blown away, literally, by a freezing wind tunnel on West 13th Street. Maybe appropriate, because I soon entered a warm room with a digital mountainscape as its backdrop and models wandering around in various cold-weather gear, like an incredible recycled boiled wool twinset, a dainty cotton shirt layered under a ski suit, a fresh take on a balaclava, girly socks paired with hiking boots, patchwork cotton puffer jackets, and hemlines with ski slope curves (as Mallory noted in our Fashion Week Slack channel, “the era of gore-tex-chic really is upon us”). Hot cider in clear glasses was served alongside the collection at a bar looking over the Hudson River, and design duo Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang were milling around chatting with everyone, answering questions, catching me taking a selfie with a model in my Ph5 cardigan from FW18. Only part of the collection was on view, but you can see the rest on Vogue.com (and you should, bc it’s goooooood). —Elizabeth

PRISCAVera

In the belly of midtown, a small but elegant library was the backdrop to PRISCAvera’s runway show, which was a mix of grunge and street and intriguingly quiet style. Juxtapositions! I was perched in a balcony section with Sabrina overlooking the scene, where we watched the show’s edgy attendants, who all seemed to hug and know each other. Then, the grand finale! The final circuit of models arranged themselves for display in the library stacks opposite us, all dressed in muted colors accented by small shocks of pink or neon, and without fail–a pair of Nike sneakers. —Amalie

Rag & Bone

At Vesey Studios—a new venue that’s waaaay over on the west side close to the Freedom Tower, but near zero immediate subways, FYI—Rag & Bone showgoers sat in a dark room on risers. Beverages were served in dimly lit kiosks around the perimeter of the space, like at a concert. The lights were extremely low and remained low throughout the entire show, with models illuminated only by spotlights. Sitting next to my seat mate, show beer in hand, I witnessed slouchy sturdy boots paired with slip and long knit dresses, oversized plaid shorts paired with tall boots (you heard it here first!), and sleeve cuffs hanging wayyyyy past the models’ wrists. Looks were cozy and comfy: fair isle knits and flowy ponchos, and my favorite, sheer black tights paired with open toed platforms and … sneakers!! This entire collection said “well-dressed cold-weather commuter-wear” and I’m here for that. —Elizabeth

Monse

Calling all fans of the uneven hemline, still riding the side of the 90s train that was highly inspired by English punk, feeling experimental enough to affix both safety pins and crystals to their tights: I have the fashion show for you! Monse, held on Wall Street at 6pm yday (I’m writing this from 6 a.m. the next day, fyi) had a ton of tartan baked into suiting, lots of mens tweed, a hodgepodge of both those aforementioned safety pins and crystals and Eva Chen, dressed as a #stickofbutter in the front row, was wearing a newsboy cap. —Leandra

Day One
Christian Siriano

The red (actually, pink) carpet leading to my first Christian Siriano runway show was almost more exciting than the main event, seeing as it was loaded with celebs like Heidi Klum, Tan France, Alexa Chung, and Rachel Bilson just rubbing elbows and talking about celeb stuff. The clothes themselves—punk and candy-colored—told me that if you thought the aughts were exempt from the 20-year nostalgia cycle, you’re entirely wrong, but that’s okay because the coup de foudre of the evening was watching Leslie Jones absolutely lose it over Coco Rocha walking in her Siriano couture. —Amalie

Rachel Comey

You gotta picture this scene—we’re at La Mercerie (a swanky-ass restaurant attached to a store that sells the kind of furniture that decorates lofts and park-view apartments), which is directly next to Stadium Goods on Howard and Mercer and a group of no more than 60 people (including Molly Ringwald and Cindy Sherman!!) are seated around six-ish tables when Mx Justin Vivian Bond (a transgender artist and downtown staple) takes the stage, or at least podium, and starts to sing “You’re So Vain.” Then out walk a bunch of fashion looks on models who are also Interesting People in the World, but the show’s not done yet! After the first group of models complete their traipse, an SVP at the Center for Reproductive Rights promptly takes the microphone and first asks us if we like her dress (it’s Rachel Comey), but mostly she’s there to talk about a Supreme Court rally in DC on March 4th, which causes my table to charge into a conversation about abortion rights until Mx JVB comes back out to sing again and show us more clothes (camp socks and boots r the thing, btw, and so many unexpected sparkle trims are peeking out of knitwear; there’s also slightly acid-wash denim, in jumpsuits and pants and jackets, which, duh). Then! Aminatou Sow talks about friendship and it is so heartwarming and she’s wearing kooky glasses that make her look so cool and this fitted checkered Rachel Comey dress from a season’s past. She says, “Some of my best memories have occurred in Rachel’s clothes” and I swear I’ve just fallen in love with her. By this point my table is wrapped in a conversation about the Iowa Caucus and art funding and the trim on a sweater we all just saw and just before the final tableau of models is to show, it becomes so obvious that this is what fashion week 2.0 should be like because at its best, this is what life is like: a bunch of different people, from different lives, with different perspectives, in a room, talking about stuff they care about, in clothes that make them feel strong. —Leandra

Photos via Vogue Runway and Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows

The post 33 One-Sentence Reviews From New York Fashion Week appeared first on Man Repeller.

One-Sentence NYFW Reviews Day 7: Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs

Man Repeller’s famous (in niche circles) one-sentence reviews are BACK and better than ever (I predict), so floss your teeth and tie your shoelaces, my elegant mongooses (just Googled and the plural of mongoose is regrettably not “mongeese”). We’ll be whipping up dispatches like they’re the fashion week equivalent of egg whites, occasionally light on actual fashion but perpetually heavy on the spice that is LIFE ITSELF–the emotions, the celebrity sightings, the subway delays, the elaborate snacks, the joy of staring at the back of a familiar head, etcetera! This page will be updated once a day, every morning, with the prior day’s insights and observations, so don’t forget to check back. See you in the comments.

Day Seven
Michael Kors

Orville Peck performed at Michael Kors!!! I didn’t know who he was until my older brother commented on my Instagram stories, following a showdown of Who Wore it Bests wherein he (unwittingly) and I competed in a battle of the suede fringe jacket; he (my brother) was expressing enthusiasm because I was in his (Orville Peck’s) presence–but anyway, the clothes: same old, great, dependable Michael Kors and, I have to say, a jolt of inspiration for me and getting dressed after a week of feeling pretty uninspired if I am being perfectly upfront; the collection was like a cross between Richard Gere’s 1980’s style and the English countryside where Princess Diana probably parked her horses–I think I’m really going to lean into it, starting tonight with a blue button-down shirt tucked into a pair of wool khaki trousers, tucked into black riding boots. Same old great dependable Michael Kors meets my same old great dependable closet. —Leandra

Marc Jacobs

Woahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Full story on this forthcoming. —Leandra

Day Six
Khaite

Have you ever been to a bar on the Upper East Side? Many underage residents of the neighborhood frequent the haunts that speckle the city blocks from Lenox Hill to Carnegie but none of them would wear any of these clothes—not to frequent those bars, at least (a leopard print, bubble-hem mini dress is far too elevated for such debauchery)—but take the uptown youth, whether de facto of the neighborhood or not, off the Upper East Side, throw her into the gallery district of Chelsea where nightclubs used to come alive between the hours of 11 p.m and 4 a.m. and you might find the same kind of energy these clothes evince: a budding woman, rebellious by every mean available to her, still ingratiated in a world she’s sure she’ll break away from. How else could you explain the prints and teeny tiny shorts and electric kitten heels? Of course, what we think we know at the end of our teens and into our 20s is rarely what is true, and if the rich suede coats and screen printed scarf blouses, delectable tapered trousers and perfectly prim totes styled to offset the tough edge of the rest of the collection indicate anything, it’s that you can’t ever really take the uptown out of the girl. Even, I should say, if she’s never been there. —Leandra

Eckhaus Latta

At Eckhaus the editors always sit second row to the cool kids—which probably makes sense, since the brand has never been interested in bowing to the establishment (shit… am I the establishment?), with its consistently hard-to-parse, almost trendless collections and shows located in hard-to-reach locations—but this was my worst seat at Eckhaus yet: I was not permitted a front view of any outfit, only the side, and only for a quarter second before it was whisked away, and at this I had to laugh; the signature knit tops and vinyl pants and going-out dresses were literally inaccessible to me, but maybe they already were—in the end I had no choice but to be impressed, even as I questioned where my seat would be next time (somewhere in the East River?). —Haley

Gabriela Hearst

A huge wheel of Parmesan was placed at the center of two large tables filled with food at the entrance of Gabriela Hearst, a plea no doubt to feed the attendants of her Fall 2020 show with more than just fashion, though I should say these clothes skew less fashion and more just, clothes (a difference I’ve had at the top of my mind this week), thanks to the dependable one-and-done long sleeve open neck dresses and overwhelming nubby knit robes. —Leandra

Day Five
Oscar de la Renta

9 p.m. is very late for a fashion show to begin on a Monday night in the middle of February but I’m not here to complain, or sweep rain, and honestly, some clothes really do have the ability to perk you the hell up; the first time that happened last night at Oscar de la Renta was in response to a black blazer with floral embroidery in the right corner, taking the place of a prom corsage for this grown up attempt at embodying the modern woman, and lest I forget her silk charmeuse scarf! Flowing like butter on a pan, or whatever. Then there was the larger than life mullet skirt—black tie to be sure but flipped on its head, thanks to a pair of thigh-high duck boots in leather (though there were examples of these shoes in velvet too) and finally—finale!—the feathered-skirt velvet-turtlenecked dress to end all red carpet commentary. Where were you at the Oscars? —Leandra

Puppets and Puppets

I came into the Puppets and Puppets AW20 show knowing very little about the indie label— having only taken some brain space to ponder the name: Why “Puppets and Puppets”? Who are in the first set of puppets and who are in the second? What kind of puppets are we talking? Harling, Eliz, and I congregated in a ballroom in Midtown and ogled the crowd of obscenely cool, young artist types—this was not your usual editor/buyer fashion show fare. The looks themselves, kicked off by a full priest habit with a twist (a cookie belt), were worn by a who’s who of young New York creatives, like Danny Bowien, Caroline Polachek, and Richie Shazam. They included but were sure as hell not limited to: a nude “power mesh” body stocking and merkin thong worn by a pregnant Alexandra Marzella, a spandex leotard with a space hood and Tiffany blue horns, and a velvet princess hat with an 11-yard organza train. My mouth was agape for the duration, but was met with a smirk near the end because I love shit like this. I love when artists say to fashion week “Guess what? How about this.” How. about. It. —Amalie

Proenza Schouler

I was a little distracted by the conversations I struck up with Emily Ratajowski about the difference between being an only child and having siblings (she is the former) and Eva Chen about her Carnegie Hill mom outfit (tapered ivory trousers and a light brown sweater with kitten heels) to really sink my teeth into the 8 p.m. show that was Proenza Schouler, but the lamé tank dresses smacked me right back into reality, if only to admire the flapping wings hanging onto one such number as if a backpack that doubles as a very luxurious sleeping bag and another set wrapped around the model. Sometimes you just need a hug, you know? Oh! And per the shoes, did you ever have those plush shower flip-flops at camp that were like walking on marshmallows? They’re designer heels now. #Blessed. —Leandra

Veronica Beard

You know the blazer in your closet you always wear for a day of important meetings? That sweater that never gets put away (all hail the dumping chair) because you always want to wear it? The pair of simple but flattering black pants that never let you down? The one coat you constantly reach for even though you have several? Those are the types of clothes that Veronica Beard showcased today—styles that don’t intimidate, but always impress. These are clothes that make you feel glamorous and comfortable at the same time—a balance perfectly expressed by the crystal fringe embellished LBD that a pregnant Hillary Rhoda wore to close the show. —Elizabeth

Carolina Herrera

I woke up this morning when Austin’s very early alarm went off with one of the biggest emotional hangovers of my entire life born, no doubt, from too much sugar and too little rest courtesy of my action-packed weekend, so I pulled a pillow over my head and went back to sleep for another HOUR, which felt positively decadent, and definitely put me in a better frame of mind to step inside the refined, white-carpeted world of Carolina Herrera–even from the very back row. I apologize in advance that my brain wheels are currently greased by wedding thoughts, but please join me in ogling one of the most perfectly ethereal white dresses I’ve ever seen. In non-wedding observations, I can’t wait to recreate this excellent alt-black-tie outfit idea: black trousers and a white button-down with a dramatic bustier layered on top. —Harling

The Row

What do you expect from The Row if not the most subtle styling tips to apply either to the wardrobe you already have or the one you’d like to imagine—here are the basics: balaclavas are going nowhere but they are now way more subdued; if you want to pair a blazer with an overcoat, make it a single—not double—breast; yes, you can wear sandals as boots, you’ll just need the right socks; and if you’ve ever felt like you can’t be both a navy person and a brown person, think again!!!!!!!!! Maybe don’t pair both with black in the same outfit but heather camel is fair game. —Leandra

Day Four
Chromat

If you asked me last week if I thought I’d spend Sunday night at a place called #RiseByWe, a gym operated by WeWork, watching a strength-training session, its participants dressed in ROYGBIV gradients reminiscent of the Speedo one-pieces you may have worn to swimming lessons as a child, I probably would have said “no” and moved on pretty quickly. But life can surprise you sometimes. So there I stood last night, underground at the Chromat show, watching models like Kimberly Drew and Alok demonstrate how it’s done (all in service of “protesting the exclusionary gender binary that has come to define the Olympics”), completely envious of their spunky energy and flexible range of motion in the face of a steadily creeping Monday morning. —Edith

Collina Strada

This season’s Collina Strada show took place at The Dance, a new(ish) nightclub formerly known as ”that place where I had a weird time on my husband’s birthday.” I was excited by the prospect of rewriting this association with some help from Collina Strada, but, as luck would have it, another “weird time” was had. The clothes themselves were true to what Collina Strada is known for—they were easy-to-wear, environmentally-friendly pieces that echo the sentiments and political fixations of the moment. This time, though, designer Hillary Taymour took a sunny approach to the topic of global warming, sending her models into the show’s garden set wearing bright prints and carrying rakes, hoes, and spades. Reception in the audience was subdued, as viewers were either too packed into the small space to murmur amongst themselves or, more hopefully, mulling over how to best process this steamy hothouse vision of the future. The best moment of the show was when Paramore’s Hayley Williams closed out the evening with a powerful performance of her new song ‘Simmer.’ Everyone stayed seated to watch until a collective groove took over the room–proof that clothes are always only one part of getting the bigger picture. —Ruby

Sies Marjan

Have you ever owned a pair of real Dutch clogs? I’ve had like ten pairs (of clogs) over the years but none have actually been Dutch and I’ve never even known I want a pair until a parade of men’s looks from Sies Marjan’s Fall 20 range marched the runway on the 59th floor of a building with floor to ceiling glass windows overlooking New York. They were paired with gold-accented denim and a trench, one white pajama set with small floral renderings printed on it (my look to be sure) and on the women, more delicate pairs combined with chunky socks and the most gorgeous shades of yellow and green and pink and beige. Sometimes I wonder: what’s the difference between color and Color. It’s Sies. (Can I call it that?) —Leandra

Bevza

One of my biggest sartorial frustrations is when a shirt doesn’t tuck properly. Another is when a long vest or coat or blazer constricts me too much OR bunches up against whatever I have layered underneath. At Bevza, designer Svetlana Bevza considered it all: the long shirts had side slits up to the models’ hips. A brown button down was tailored on the sides so that you could tuck it in the front without it looking bulky or like a weird unintentional tail. The blazers had cuts in the back so that they flared out to give them a touch of femininity. It was like Bevza read all the “dressing struggle”-related comments on Man Repeller and then designed a collection to solve for everything. THANK YOU. —Elizabeth

Brock

There are two kinds of people in the world, those who pair navy with black (nee Phoebe Philo) and those who pair brown with black (nee Miuccia Prada)—Brock is the latter and what you get as a result is this, like, deeply feminine, romantic collection of clothes that Harling described pretty perfectly as “Little Women but make it fashion.” Today the models wore layers of embroidered tulle over their faces and hair, tucked back with their ponytails to create a sort of “sporty bride” head. Their brown suede not-quite-knee-length boots, which were flat, signaled my burgeoning-trend-o-meter because they were the same practical height as the ones I saw at Tory Burch this morning. One styling tip I’ll take away blends a thin leather waist belt with a silk scarf, rolled up really skinny to tie above or below said belt, leaving a pointed end at the middle point, peeking out from behind. And as for that white gown? Someone! Anyone! Please. Host a garden wedding. —Leandra

Area

I was the first in line (a first and likely a last) for the Area show this morning, hosted at the Africa Center on 109th St and Fifth Ave, the interior of which could be aptly described by a 2004 David Byrne song I’ve been listening to this week called “Glass, Concrete, & Stone.” Through the big, brutalist windows, you could see passersby with strollers and kids and big winter coats looking in and considering the spectacle from a slight remove: What were they thinking about the clothes (and the robotic, synchronized way the attendees watched them through their phones)? Were they surprised by when the model revealed a heart-shaped cut-out in the back of a short dress? Did they wonder about the hair, styled in a ponytail wrapped around the models’ necks? What struck me about this show was how it could outfit and appeal to so many different people—those who prefer full coverage or those who tend toward the scantily clad; those in search of a quintessential 90s going-out-dress and those who covet something with a strong sleeve; those who like a sheer tight or those who opt for a bare leg; those who want their clothes to do some of the talking, to break the ice, but leave them room to do the rest. —Edith

Tory Burch

Welcome to Sunday morning at Sotheby’s during fashion week, where the espresso beans are Sant Ambroeus-branded and the runway show is also an art installation featuring human-size candelabras. I should tell you that I was seated next to two of the stars of Cheer, and everyone was losing their shit! They were both wearing full Tory Sport looks, and one of them thought her hair looked terrible but I can assure you it looked great and the pink sweater/skirt combo in the triptych above was there purely because they both mentioned how much they loved it. Anyway, here are a few things I picked up on: strapless garments are coming back, and we’re being asked to wear them with boots; the best coat option for next winter, if you are not interested in a cropped, low-key aviator-inspired style to pair with your skinny jeans and thigh-high, drawstring boots is 10/10 a robe coat; square-toe shoes are coming back in a more mainstream way—sorry denizens of the Lower East Side! And finally, an army green sweater with electric red trouser pants tucked into embroidered pointed toe boots appears to be the simple styling template and color combination no one wanted to see coming but we will, no doubt, be taking. I can lead if you want. —Leandra

Day Three
Laquan Smith

I would give my left arm to someday possess half the glamour of the Laquan Smith woman. The utter sex appeal of this show!!! Texture, big boots, and bodycon ran amok, or, I guess, catwalked. Strutted. It reminded me of the runway shows of the 90s where the women were so bodied and the walks were so luxe that all you could do was stare slack-jawed. Wish I could have grabbed a pair of quilted puffer boots or metallic pants on the way out as everyone was clearly off to continue their elegant, sexy party and I was off to inhale a bowl of pasta. —Amalie

Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson is known for her satin, crotchet, and lace garments, but for me, her show this season was all about the accessories. Long gloves and scrunched knee-high knit socks paired with sandals and corset belts complemented the clothing well and showed the versatility of the designs: wear your floral dress to work with a blazer and then swap it for a corset belt and sexy long gloves on a night out. For my purposes, I’ve now figured out a warm enough way to walk the Williamsburg Bridge in a dress once again: just add a tall knit sock! —Elizabeth

Sandy Liang

The energy at the door of Sandy Liang was somewhat manic–a slew of shivering humans waiting in line to get in, and frenzied publicists scrambling to write people’s seat assignments on notecards as quickly as possible. Once we made our way inside and sat down–on a row of benches inside the lobby of Stuyvesant (a public high school in Tribeca)–it was as if the room let out a collective sigh of contentment, and that’s before we even saw the clothes! Which were good by the way, and markedly different from the brand’s prior collections, erring on the side of pared-down (save for a few eyeball-patterned pieces) and firmly conjuring the realities of an actual woman’s wardrobe instead of simply the runway version of it. I’ve always enjoyed Sandy Liang’s collections, but this one felt like a tangible turning point–a demonstration of her ability to the streamlined mood that is permeating the industry at the moment, but not without sneaking in a little human anatomy while she’s at it. —Harling

R13

WHEW! Fun fact about me: I thought I was a punk in my youth. I wore platform Doc Martens and heavy eyeliner and leather jackets and smoked CIGARETTES (sorry mom!), so I can say with certainty that 2009 Amalie would have flipped her little lid for this R13 runway. And the sweet thing is: I think that tiny punk bird still flutters inside my heart, so as I watched these comically large bowler hats and chunkzilla shoes and oversized jackets that could fit three grown men in them thunder down the runway, I felt alive in a way that I haven’t in a bit. There’s a 50% chance that in 3 years, I return to my roots. I’ll probably be wearing R13. —Amalie

Hellessy

I spent the majority of the Hellessy show looking at the models’ feet, which–before you accuse me of being the pervert that I 100% am–were the style star of the show. There were monochromatic pairings of white or black socks and delicate lace-up sandals corseted over pants (reminiscent of this trend that Harling Ross forecasted back in resort season). The clothes themselves were a field day of silk, velvet, brocade, and tweed all harnessed by effortless designs. Catch me wearing this oversized sweater someday soon, playfully slapping everyone I know with the sleeves. —Amalie

Susan Alexandra

Susan Alexandra’s show invite this year described it as a musical, but even when it opened with a splashy musical number I was still convinced the term was being used loosely. Absolutely incorrect!!! This was a full-on 30-minute original musical worthy of Broadway. Starring a mix of comedians and actors I recognized from her past presentations, it followed a semi-autobiographical story about Susan gathering the courage to open a store in Soho. Damn, I can’t figure out how to explain this without making it sounding dumb, but the truth is it was the coolest and most creative show I’ve seen in the eight fashion weeks I’ve attended. Nobody could stop smiling. The songs are in my head! Fashion week is so often about spectacle, and this was definitely that, but it was also different in that it actually offered more than Instagram fodder (in fact, it didn’t really translate via iPhone at all). It felt almost vintage in that way. The prevailing feeling as everyone walked out was that it couldn’t have happened anywhere but New York. —Haley

Christopher John Rogers

This evening marked my second time sitting in front of a Christopher John Rogers runway, and once again it was evident that this former up-and-comer has fully and completely arrived—as evidenced by his power to put on a show with the kind of qualities I fantasized about before working in the industry: a great soundtrack, literal smoke, fun lighting, clothes so dramatic they make your breath catch in your throat, and a crowd that freely whoops and cheers with every modelesque flourish. And most important of all, nothing felt overwrought, or piled on simply for the sake of a compelling Instagram—it was a genuine expression of joy and artistry, right down to Rogers’ show-stealing final bow. —Harling

Tibi

At the Tibi presentation (which was chock-full of clever references to air travel–from neck rests that double as coat collar decor to airport-branded socks), I ran into the brand’s president Elaine, who started talking to me about the experience of decorating an apartment. “You really have to seek out stuff that’s fun to look out but super practical at the same time,” she said, and we both locked eyes and knew exactly what the other person was thinking: Tibi. Tibi! The reason it appeals season after season is its ability to harmoniously combine these things that are so often at odds with each other, and this new collection was no exception–with beautifully tailored pants, skirts cut in swaths of structured fabric, sweaters rendered in the perfect shade of “oat milk latte,” and shoes that look like black-tie versions of airline slippers. —Harling

Adam Lippes

Oftentimes fashion shows are either about having fun or trying to solve problem, but rarely both. At the Adam Lippes show this morning—where breakfast and some of the best berries I’ve eaten all winter was served—corporate dressing problems were addressed with playful aplomb. The wrap-around runway, which was the path between tables at the new Verōnika restaurant upstairs at Fotografiska (which apparently has a long reservation waitlist), featured models wearing extra-long flared sleeve lurex tops (the kind you can push up your elbow while you type), the pointiest blazer shoulders possible (that can still fit under your commuter coat), and ruffled shirts peeking out of sweater collars (the plain white shirt’s delightfully weird older sibling). It was a show that answered the oft-ignored but evergreen question: “How can I have fun getting dressed for work?” —Elizabeth

Day Two
PH5

Walking up to the Ph5 presentation, located at the Standard Highline, I was almost blown away, literally, by a freezing wind tunnel on West 13th Street. Maybe appropriate, because I soon entered a warm room with a digital mountainscape as its backdrop and models wandering around in various cold-weather gear, like an incredible recycled boiled wool twinset, a dainty cotton shirt layered under a ski suit, a fresh take on a balaclava, girly socks paired with hiking boots, patchwork cotton puffer jackets, and hemlines with ski slope curves (as Mallory noted in our Fashion Week Slack channel, “the era of gore-tex-chic really is upon us”). Hot cider in clear glasses was served alongside the collection at a bar looking over the Hudson River, and design duo Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang were milling around chatting with everyone, answering questions, catching me taking a selfie with a model in my Ph5 cardigan from FW18. Only part of the collection was on view, but you can see the rest on Vogue.com (and you should, bc it’s goooooood). —Elizabeth

PRISCAVera

In the belly of midtown, a small but elegant library was the backdrop to PRISCAvera’s runway show, which was a mix of grunge and street and intriguingly quiet style. Juxtapositions! I was perched in a balcony section with Sabrina overlooking the scene, where we watched the show’s edgy attendants, who all seemed to hug and know each other. Then, the grand finale! The final circuit of models arranged themselves for display in the library stacks opposite us, all dressed in muted colors accented by small shocks of pink or neon, and without fail–a pair of Nike sneakers. —Amalie

Rag & Bone

At Vesey Studios—a new venue that’s waaaay over on the west side close to the Freedom Tower, but near zero immediate subways, FYI—Rag & Bone showgoers sat in a dark room on risers. Beverages were served in dimly lit kiosks around the perimeter of the space, like at a concert. The lights were extremely low and remained low throughout the entire show, with models illuminated only by spotlights. Sitting next to my seat mate, show beer in hand, I witnessed slouchy sturdy boots paired with slip and long knit dresses, oversized plaid shorts paired with tall boots (you heard it here first!), and sleeve cuffs hanging wayyyyy past the models’ wrists. Looks were cozy and comfy: fair isle knits and flowy ponchos, and my favorite, sheer black tights paired with open toed platforms and … sneakers!! This entire collection said “well-dressed cold-weather commuter-wear” and I’m here for that. —Elizabeth

Monse

Calling all fans of the uneven hemline, still riding the side of the 90s train that was highly inspired by English punk, feeling experimental enough to affix both safety pins and crystals to their tights: I have the fashion show for you! Monse, held on Wall Street at 6pm yday (I’m writing this from 6 a.m. the next day, fyi) had a ton of tartan baked into suiting, lots of mens tweed, a hodgepodge of both those aforementioned safety pins and crystals and Eva Chen, dressed as a #stickofbutter in the front row, was wearing a newsboy cap. —Leandra

Day One
Christian Siriano

The red (actually, pink) carpet leading to my first Christian Siriano runway show was almost more exciting than the main event, seeing as it was loaded with celebs like Heidi Klum, Tan France, Alexa Chung, and Rachel Bilson just rubbing elbows and talking about celeb stuff. The clothes themselves—punk and candy-colored—told me that if you thought the aughts were exempt from the 20-year nostalgia cycle, you’re entirely wrong, but that’s okay because the coup de foudre of the evening was watching Leslie Jones absolutely lose it over Coco Rocha walking in her Siriano couture. —Amalie

Rachel Comey

You gotta picture this scene—we’re at La Mercerie (a swanky-ass restaurant attached to a store that sells the kind of furniture that decorates lofts and park-view apartments), which is directly next to Stadium Goods on Howard and Mercer and a group of no more than 60 people (including Molly Ringwald and Cindy Sherman!!) are seated around six-ish tables when Mx Justin Vivian Bond (a transgender artist and downtown staple) takes the stage, or at least podium, and starts to sing “You’re So Vain.” Then out walk a bunch of fashion looks on models who are also Interesting People in the World, but the show’s not done yet! After the first group of models complete their traipse, an SVP at the Center for Reproductive Rights promptly takes the microphone and first asks us if we like her dress (it’s Rachel Comey), but mostly she’s there to talk about a Supreme Court rally in DC on March 4th, which causes my table to charge into a conversation about abortion rights until Mx JVB comes back out to sing again and show us more clothes (camp socks and boots r the thing, btw, and so many unexpected sparkle trims are peeking out of knitwear; there’s also slightly acid-wash denim, in jumpsuits and pants and jackets, which, duh). Then! Aminatou Sow talks about friendship and it is so heartwarming and she’s wearing kooky glasses that make her look so cool and this fitted checkered Rachel Comey dress from a season’s past. She says, “Some of my best memories have occurred in Rachel’s clothes” and I swear I’ve just fallen in love with her. By this point my table is wrapped in a conversation about the Iowa Caucus and art funding and the trim on a sweater we all just saw and just before the final tableau of models is to show, it becomes so obvious that this is what fashion week 2.0 should be like because at its best, this is what life is like: a bunch of different people, from different lives, with different perspectives, in a room, talking about stuff they care about, in clothes that make them feel strong. —Leandra

Photos via Vogue Runway and Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows

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NYFW Street Style Day 5: Rainy Weather Accessories Saved the Day

Last night, as we were all sleeping, our street style photographer Karolina sent through the Day 5 batch of street style at 1:58 a.m., lest you think anyone’s easing off fashion week. I wouldn’t want to venture a guess of how many secret blisters lurk beneath the surface of these photos, but no one’s losing momentum in the waning days of NYFW—if anything, the outfits are just starting to reach a fever pitch.

The sun sat out fashion week this year, posing a question in urgent need of a solution: How do you accessorize for this festival of fashions while warding off inclement weather? How do you make your accessories work smarter, not harder? I found some answers in the slideshow below, in the form of translucent bucket hats, corduroy bucket hats, and tweed bucket hats. I also spotted: Hanne Gaby in a floral rain bonnet (!) and Hunter boots, a couple Very Tall Hats of Pharrell proportions, Tamu McPherson’s rain-slicker-yellow boots, Harling Ross’ normcore umbrella, sneakers galore, combat boots with tulle skirts and gingham dresses, a New York Yankees cap, sunglasses that shield rain like a black car’s tinted windows, a high concentration of printed boots, silk scarves around heads, sweaters repurposed as scarves, a print mix melange by Michelle Li that starts with a floppy hat and ends with a pair of rain boots, high platforms lifting puddle hems off the pavement, a hefty collegiate-style scarf, and one pair of bowling shoes. And then there was a total anomaly, a reminder that everyone experiences weather in a different way: the odd instance of someone carrying a naked laptop against her forearm despite the drizzle.

What else awaits you in the slideshow below? To borrow a sentence construction from 2006-era Belle and Sebastian, the beiges are still beige (is this the creamiest fashion week on record?). An easy formula for a good midwinter outfit is still a statement coat. And then there’s the most monochrome outfit I’ve ever seen Leandra wear!

If you’re feeling nostalgic for the early days of fashion week, please direct your attention to Days 1, 2, 3, and 4. And if you take away one styling tip from this story, I’d recommend this one: In the thick of fashion week, the most underrated quality of an umbrella is that it gives you something to do with your hands.

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Photos by Karolina Kaczynska

The post NYFW Street Style Day 5: Rainy Weather Accessories Saved the Day appeared first on Man Repeller.

One-Sentence NYFW Reviews Day 6: Khaite, Eckhaus Latta, and Gabriela Hearst

Man Repeller’s famous (in niche circles) one-sentence reviews are BACK and better than ever (I predict), so floss your teeth and tie your shoelaces, my elegant mongooses (just Googled and the plural of mongoose is regrettably not “mongeese”). We’ll be whipping up dispatches like they’re the fashion week equivalent of egg whites, occasionally light on actual fashion but perpetually heavy on the spice that is LIFE ITSELF–the emotions, the celebrity sightings, the subway delays, the elaborate snacks, the joy of staring at the back of a familiar head, etcetera! This page will be updated once a day, every morning, with the prior day’s insights and observations, so don’t forget to check back. See you in the comments.

Day Six
Khaite

Have you ever been to a bar on the Upper East Side? Many underage residents of the neighborhood frequent the haunts that speckle the city blocks from Lenox Hill to Carnegie but none of them would wear any of these clothes—not to frequent those bars, at least (a leopard print, bubble-hem mini dress is far too elevated for such debauchery)—but take the uptown youth, whether de facto of the neighborhood or not, off the Upper East Side, throw her into the gallery district of Chelsea where nightclubs used to come alive between the hours of 11 p.m and 4 a.m. and you might find the same kind of energy these clothes evince: a budding woman, rebellious by every mean available to her, still ingratiated in a world she’s sure she’ll break away from. How else could you explain the prints and teeny tiny shorts and electric kitten heels? Of course, what we think we know at the end of our teens and into our 20s is rarely what is true, and if the rich suede coats and screen printed scarf blouses, delectable tapered trousers and perfectly prim totes styled to offset the tough edge of the rest of the collection indicate anything, it’s that you can’t ever really take the uptown out of the girl. Even, I should say, if she’s never been there. —Leandra

Eckhaus Latta

At Eckhaus the editors always sit second row to the cool kids—which probably makes sense, since the brand has never been interested in bowing to the establishment (shit… am I the establishment?), with its consistently hard-to-parse, almost trendless collections and shows located in hard-to-reach locations—but this was my worst seat at Eckhaus yet: I was not permitted a front view of any outfit, only the side, and only for a quarter second before it was whisked away, and at this I had to laugh; the signature knit tops and vinyl pants and going-out dresses were literally inaccessible to me, but maybe they already were—in the end I had no choice but to be impressed, even as I questioned where my seat would be next time (somewhere in the East River?). —Haley

Gabriela Hearst

A huge wheel of Parmesan was placed at the center of two large tables filled with food at the entrance of Gabriela Hearst, a plea no doubt to feed the attendants of her Fall 2020 show with more than just fashion, though I should say these clothes skew less fashion and more just, clothes (a difference I’ve had at the top of my mind this week), thanks to the dependable one-and-done long sleeve open neck dresses and overwhelming nubby knit robes. —Leandra

Day Five
Oscar de la Renta

9 p.m. is very late for a fashion show to begin on a Monday night in the middle of February but I’m not here to complain, or sweep rain, and honestly, some clothes really do have the ability to perk you the hell up; the first time that happened last night at Oscar de la Renta was in response to a black blazer with floral embroidery in the right corner, taking the place of a prom corsage for this grown up attempt at embodying the modern woman, and lest I forget her silk charmeuse scarf! Flowing like butter on a pan, or whatever. Then there was the larger than life mullet skirt—black tie to be sure but flipped on its head, thanks to a pair of thigh-high duck boots in leather (though there were examples of these shoes in velvet too) and finally—finale!—the feathered-skirt velvet-turtlenecked dress to end all red carpet commentary. Where were you at the Oscars? —Leandra

Puppets and Puppets

I came into the Puppets and Puppets AW20 show knowing very little about the indie label— having only taken some brain space to ponder the name: Why “Puppets and Puppets”? Who are in the first set of puppets and who are in the second? What kind of puppets are we talking? Harling, Eliz, and I congregated in a ballroom in Midtown and ogled the crowd of obscenely cool, young artist types—this was not your usual editor/buyer fashion show fare. The looks themselves, kicked off by a full priest habit with a twist (a cookie belt), were worn by a who’s who of young New York creatives, like Danny Bowien, Caroline Polachek, and Richie Shazam. They included but were sure as hell not limited to: a nude “power mesh” body stocking and merkin thong worn by a pregnant Alexandra Marzella, a spandex leotard with a space hood and Tiffany blue horns, and a velvet princess hat with an 11-yard organza train. My mouth was agape for the duration, but was met with a smirk near the end because I love shit like this. I love when artists say to fashion week “Guess what? How about this.” How. about. It. —Amalie

Proenza Schouler

I was a little distracted by the conversations I struck up with Emily Ratajowski about the difference between being an only child and having siblings (she is the former) and Eva Chen about her Carnegie Hill mom outfit (tapered ivory trousers and a light brown sweater with kitten heels) to really sink my teeth into the 8 p.m. show that was Proenza Schouler, but the lamé tank dresses smacked me right back into reality, if only to admire the flapping wings hanging onto one such number as if a backpack that doubles as a very luxurious sleeping bag and another set wrapped around the model. Sometimes you just need a hug, you know? Oh! And per the shoes, did you ever have those plush shower flip-flops at camp that were like walking on marshmallows? They’re designer heels now. #Blessed. —Leandra

Veronica Beard

You know the blazer in your closet you always wear for a day of important meetings? That sweater that never gets put away (all hail the dumping chair) because you always want to wear it? The pair of simple but flattering black pants that never let you down? The one coat you constantly reach for even though you have several? Those are the types of clothes that Veronica Beard showcased today—styles that don’t intimidate, but always impress. These are clothes that make you feel glamorous and comfortable at the same time—a balance perfectly expressed by the crystal fringe embellished LBD that a pregnant Hillary Rhoda wore to close the show. —Elizabeth

Carolina Herrera

I woke up this morning when Austin’s very early alarm went off with one of the biggest emotional hangovers of my entire life born, no doubt, from too much sugar and too little rest courtesy of my action-packed weekend, so I pulled a pillow over my head and went back to sleep for another HOUR, which felt positively decadent, and definitely put me in a better frame of mind to step inside the refined, white-carpeted world of Carolina Herrera–even from the very back row. I apologize in advance that my brain wheels are currently greased by wedding thoughts, but please join me in ogling one of the most perfectly ethereal white dresses I’ve ever seen. In non-wedding observations, I can’t wait to recreate this excellent alt-black-tie outfit idea: black trousers and a white button-down with a dramatic bustier layered on top. —Harling

The Row

What do you expect from The Row if not the most subtle styling tips to apply either to the wardrobe you already have or the one you’d like to imagine—here are the basics: balaclavas are going nowhere but they are now way more subdued; if you want to pair a blazer with an overcoat, make it a single—not double—breast; yes, you can wear sandals as boots, you’ll just need the right socks; and if you’ve ever felt like you can’t be both a navy person and a brown person, think again!!!!!!!!! Maybe don’t pair both with black in the same outfit but heather camel is fair game. —Leandra

Day Four
Chromat

If you asked me last week if I thought I’d spend Sunday night at a place called #RiseByWe, a gym operated by WeWork, watching a strength-training session, its participants dressed in ROYGBIV gradients reminiscent of the Speedo one-pieces you may have worn to swimming lessons as a child, I probably would have said “no” and moved on pretty quickly. But life can surprise you sometimes. So there I stook last night, underground at the Chromat show, watching models like Kimberly Drew and Alok demonstrate how it’s done (all in service of “protesting the exclusionary gender binary that has come to define the Olympics”), completely envious of their spunky energy and flexible range of motion in the face of a steadily creeping Monday morning. —Edith

Collina Strada

This season’s Collina Strada show took place at The Dance, a new(ish) nightclub formerly known as ”that place where I had a weird time on my husband’s birthday.” I was excited by the prospect of rewriting this association with some help from Collina Strada, but, as luck would have it, another “weird time” was had. The clothes themselves were true to what Collina Strada is known for—they were easy-to-wear, environmentally-friendly pieces that echo the sentiments and political fixations of the moment. This time, though, designer Hillary Taymour took a sunny approach to the topic of global warming, sending her models into the show’s garden set wearing bright prints and carrying rakes, hoes, and spades. Reception in the audience was subdued, as viewers were either too packed into the small space to murmur amongst themselves or, more hopefully, mulling over how to best process this steamy hothouse vision of the future. The best moment of the show was when Paramore’s Hayley Williams closed out the evening with a powerful performance of her new song ‘Simmer.’ Everyone stayed seated to watch until a collective groove took over the room–proof that clothes are always only one part of getting the bigger picture. —Ruby

Sies Marjan

Have you ever owned a pair of real Dutch clogs? I’ve had like ten pairs (of clogs) over the years but none have actually been Dutch and I’ve never even known I want a pair until a parade of men’s looks from Sies Marjan’s Fall 20 range marched the runway on the 59th floor of a building with floor to ceiling glass windows overlooking New York. They were paired with gold-accented denim and a trench, one white pajama set with small floral renderings printed on it (my look to be sure) and on the women, more delicate pairs combined with chunky socks and the most gorgeous shades of yellow and green and pink and beige. Sometimes I wonder: what’s the difference between color and Color. It’s Sies. (Can I call it that?) —Leandra

Bevza

One of my biggest sartorial frustrations is when a shirt doesn’t tuck properly. Another is when a long vest or coat or blazer constricts me too much OR bunches up against whatever I have layered underneath. At Bevza, designer Svetlana Bevza considered it all: the long shirts had side slits up to the models’ hips. A brown button down was tailored on the sides so that you could tuck it in the front without it looking bulky or like a weird unintentional tail. The blazers had cuts in the back so that they flared out to give them a touch of femininity. It was like Bevza read all the “dressing struggle”-related comments on Man Repeller and then designed a collection to solve for everything. THANK YOU. —Elizabeth

Brock

There are two kinds of people in the world, those who pair navy with black (nee Phoebe Philo) and those who pair brown with black (nee Miuccia Prada)—Brock is the latter and what you get as a result is this, like, deeply feminine, romantic collection of clothes that Harling described pretty perfectly as “Little Women but make it fashion.” Today the models wore layers of embroidered tulle over their faces and hair, tucked back with their ponytails to create a sort of “sporty bride” head. Their brown suede not-quite-knee-length boots, which were flat, signaled my burgeoning-trend-o-meter because they were the same practical height as the ones I saw at Tory Burch this morning. One styling tip I’ll take away blends a thin leather waist belt with a silk scarf, rolled up really skinny to tie above or below said belt, leaving a pointed end at the middle point, peeking out from behind. And as for that white gown? Someone! Anyone! Please. Host a garden wedding. —Leandra

Area

I was the first in line (a first and likely a last) for the Area show this morning, hosted at the Africa Center on 109th St and Fifth Ave, the interior of which could be aptly described by a 2004 David Byrne song I’ve been listening to this week called “Glass, Concrete, & Stone.” Through the big, brutalist windows, you could see passersby with strollers and kids and big winter coats looking in and considering the spectacle from a slight remove: What were they thinking about the clothes (and the robotic, synchronized way the attendees watched them through their phones)? Were they surprised by when the model revealed a heart-shaped cut-out in the back of a short dress? Did they wonder about the hair, styled in a ponytail wrapped around the models’ necks? What struck me about this show was how it could outfit and appeal to so many different people—those who prefer full coverage or those who tend toward the scantily clad; those in search of a quintessential 90s going-out-dress and those who covet something with a strong sleeve; those who like a sheer tight or those who opt for a bare leg; those who want their clothes to do some of the talking, to break the ice, but leave them room to do the rest. —Edith

Tory Burch

Welcome to Sunday morning at Sotheby’s during fashion week, where the espresso beans are Sant Ambroeus-branded and the runway show is also an art installation featuring human-size candelabras. I should tell you that I was seated next to two of the stars of Cheer, and everyone was losing their shit! They were both wearing full Tory Sport looks, and one of them thought her hair looked terrible but I can assure you it looked great and the pink sweater/skirt combo in the triptych above was there purely because they both mentioned how much they loved it. Anyway, here are a few things I picked up on: strapless garments are coming back, and we’re being asked to wear them with boots; the best coat option for next winter, if you are not interested in a cropped, low-key aviator-inspired style to pair with your skinny jeans and thigh-high, drawstring boots is 10/10 a robe coat; square-toe shoes are coming back in a more mainstream way—sorry denizens of the Lower East Side! And finally, an army green sweater with electric red trouser pants tucked into embroidered pointed toe boots appears to be the simple styling template and color combination no one wanted to see coming but we will, no doubt, be taking. I can lead if you want. —Leandra

Day Three
Laquan Smith

I would give my left arm to someday possess half the glamour of the Laquan Smith woman. The utter sex appeal of this show!!! Texture, big boots, and bodycon ran amok, or, I guess, catwalked. Strutted. It reminded me of the runway shows of the 90s where the women were so bodied and the walks were so luxe that all you could do was stare slack-jawed. Wish I could have grabbed a pair of quilted puffer boots or metallic pants on the way out as everyone was clearly off to continue their elegant, sexy party and I was off to inhale a bowl of pasta. —Amalie

Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson is known for her satin, crotchet, and lace garments, but for me, her show this season was all about the accessories. Long gloves and scrunched knee-high knit socks paired with sandals and corset belts complemented the clothing well and showed the versatility of the designs: wear your floral dress to work with a blazer and then swap it for a corset belt and sexy long gloves on a night out. For my purposes, I’ve now figured out a warm enough way to walk the Williamsburg Bridge in a dress once again: just add a tall knit sock! —Elizabeth

Sandy Liang

The energy at the door of Sandy Liang was somewhat manic–a slew of shivering humans waiting in line to get in, and frenzied publicists scrambling to write people’s seat assignments on notecards as quickly as possible. Once we made our way inside and sat down–on a row of benches inside the lobby of Stuyvesant (a public high school in Tribeca)–it was as if the room let out a collective sigh of contentment, and that’s before we even saw the clothes! Which were good by the way, and markedly different from the brand’s prior collections, erring on the side of pared-down (save for a few eyeball-patterned pieces) and firmly conjuring the realities of an actual woman’s wardrobe instead of simply the runway version of it. I’ve always enjoyed Sandy Liang’s collections, but this one felt like a tangible turning point–a demonstration of her ability to the streamlined mood that is permeating the industry at the moment, but not without sneaking in a little human anatomy while she’s at it. —Harling

R13

WHEW! Fun fact about me: I thought I was a punk in my youth. I wore platform Doc Martens and heavy eyeliner and leather jackets and smoked CIGARETTES (sorry mom!), so I can say with certainty that 2009 Amalie would have flipped her little lid for this R13 runway. And the sweet thing is: I think that tiny punk bird still flutters inside my heart, so as I watched these comically large bowler hats and chunkzilla shoes and oversized jackets that could fit three grown men in them thunder down the runway, I felt alive in a way that I haven’t in a bit. There’s a 50% chance that in 3 years, I return to my roots. I’ll probably be wearing R13. —Amalie

Hellessy

I spent the majority of the Hellessy show looking at the models’ feet, which–before you accuse me of being the pervert that I 100% am–were the style star of the show. There were monochromatic pairings of white or black socks and delicate lace-up sandals corseted over pants (reminiscent of this trend that Harling Ross forecasted back in resort season). The clothes themselves were a field day of silk, velvet, brocade, and tweed all harnessed by effortless designs. Catch me wearing this oversized sweater someday soon, playfully slapping everyone I know with the sleeves. —Amalie

Susan Alexandra

Susan Alexandra’s show invite this year described it as a musical, but even when it opened with a splashy musical number I was still convinced the term was being used loosely. Absolutely incorrect!!! This was a full-on 30-minute original musical worthy of Broadway. Starring a mix of comedians and actors I recognized from her past presentations, it followed a semi-autobiographical story about Susan gathering the courage to open a store in Soho. Damn, I can’t figure out how to explain this without making it sounding dumb, but the truth is it was the coolest and most creative show I’ve seen in the eight fashion weeks I’ve attended. Nobody could stop smiling. The songs are in my head! Fashion week is so often about spectacle, and this was definitely that, but it was also different in that it actually offered more than Instagram fodder (in fact, it didn’t really translate via iPhone at all). It felt almost vintage in that way. The prevailing feeling as everyone walked out was that it couldn’t have happened anywhere but New York. —Haley

Christopher John Rogers

This evening marked my second time sitting in front of a Christopher John Rogers runway, and once again it was evident that this former up-and-comer has fully and completely arrived—as evidenced by his power to put on a show with the kind of qualities I fantasized about before working in the industry: a great soundtrack, literal smoke, fun lighting, clothes so dramatic they make your breath catch in your throat, and a crowd that freely whoops and cheers with every modelesque flourish. And most important of all, nothing felt overwrought, or piled on simply for the sake of a compelling Instagram—it was a genuine expression of joy and artistry, right down to Rogers’ show-stealing final bow. —Harling

Tibi

At the Tibi presentation (which was chock-full of clever references to air travel–from neck rests that double as coat collar decor to airport-branded socks), I ran into the brand’s president Elaine, who started talking to me about the experience of decorating an apartment. “You really have to seek out stuff that’s fun to look out but super practical at the same time,” she said, and we both locked eyes and knew exactly what the other person was thinking: Tibi. Tibi! The reason it appeals season after season is its ability to harmoniously combine these things that are so often at odds with each other, and this new collection was no exception–with beautifully tailored pants, skirts cut in swaths of structured fabric, sweaters rendered in the perfect shade of “oat milk latte,” and shoes that look like black-tie versions of airline slippers. —Harling

Adam Lippes

Oftentimes fashion shows are either about having fun or trying to solve problem, but rarely both. At the Adam Lippes show this morning—where breakfast and some of the best berries I’ve eaten all winter was served—corporate dressing problems were addressed with playful aplomb. The wrap-around runway, which was the path between tables at the new Verōnika restaurant upstairs at Fotografiska (which apparently has a long reservation waitlist), featured models wearing extra-long flared sleeve lurex tops (the kind you can push up your elbow while you type), the pointiest blazer shoulders possible (that can still fit under your commuter coat), and ruffled shirts peeking out of sweater collars (the plain white shirt’s delightfully weird older sibling). It was a show that answered the oft-ignored but evergreen question: “How can I have fun getting dressed for work?” —Elizabeth

Day Two
PH5

Walking up to the Ph5 presentation, located at the Standard Highline, I was almost blown away, literally, by a freezing wind tunnel on West 13th Street. Maybe appropriate, because I soon entered a warm room with a digital mountainscape as its backdrop and models wandering around in various cold-weather gear, like an incredible recycled boiled wool twinset, a dainty cotton shirt layered under a ski suit, a fresh take on a balaclava, girly socks paired with hiking boots, patchwork cotton puffer jackets, and hemlines with ski slope curves (as Mallory noted in our Fashion Week Slack channel, “the era of gore-tex-chic really is upon us”). Hot cider in clear glasses was served alongside the collection at a bar looking over the Hudson River, and design duo Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang were milling around chatting with everyone, answering questions, catching me taking a selfie with a model in my Ph5 cardigan from FW18. Only part of the collection was on view, but you can see the rest on Vogue.com (and you should, bc it’s goooooood). —Elizabeth

PRISCAVera

In the belly of midtown, a small but elegant library was the backdrop to PRISCAvera’s runway show, which was a mix of grunge and street and intriguingly quiet style. Juxtapositions! I was perched in a balcony section with Sabrina overlooking the scene, where we watched the show’s edgy attendants, who all seemed to hug and know each other. Then, the grand finale! The final circuit of models arranged themselves for display in the library stacks opposite us, all dressed in muted colors accented by small shocks of pink or neon, and without fail–a pair of Nike sneakers. —Amalie

Rag & Bone

At Vesey Studios—a new venue that’s waaaay over on the west side close to the Freedom Tower, but near zero immediate subways, FYI—Rag & Bone showgoers sat in a dark room on risers. Beverages were served in dimly lit kiosks around the perimeter of the space, like at a concert. The lights were extremely low and remained low throughout the entire show, with models illuminated only by spotlights. Sitting next to my seat mate, show beer in hand, I witnessed slouchy sturdy boots paired with slip and long knit dresses, oversized plaid shorts paired with tall boots (you heard it here first!), and sleeve cuffs hanging wayyyyy past the models’ wrists. Looks were cozy and comfy: fair isle knits and flowy ponchos, and my favorite, sheer black tights paired with open toed platforms and … sneakers!! This entire collection said “well-dressed cold-weather commuter-wear” and I’m here for that. —Elizabeth

Monse

Calling all fans of the uneven hemline, still riding the side of the 90s train that was highly inspired by English punk, feeling experimental enough to affix both safety pins and crystals to their tights: I have the fashion show for you! Monse, held on Wall Street at 6pm yday (I’m writing this from 6 a.m. the next day, fyi) had a ton of tartan baked into suiting, lots of mens tweed, a hodgepodge of both those aforementioned safety pins and crystals and Eva Chen, dressed as a #stickofbutter in the front row, was wearing a newsboy cap. —Leandra

Day One
Christian Siriano

The red (actually, pink) carpet leading to my first Christian Siriano runway show was almost more exciting than the main event, seeing as it was loaded with celebs like Heidi Klum, Tan France, Alexa Chung, and Rachel Bilson just rubbing elbows and talking about celeb stuff. The clothes themselves—punk and candy-colored—told me that if you thought the aughts were exempt from the 20-year nostalgia cycle, you’re entirely wrong, but that’s okay because the coup de foudre of the evening was watching Leslie Jones absolutely lose it over Coco Rocha walking in her Siriano couture. —Amalie

Rachel Comey

You gotta picture this scene—we’re at La Mercerie (a swanky-ass restaurant attached to a store that sells the kind of furniture that decorates lofts and park-view apartments), which is directly next to Stadium Goods on Howard and Mercer and a group of no more than 60 people (including Molly Ringwald and Cindy Sherman!!) are seated around six-ish tables when Mx Justin Vivian Bond (a transgender artist and downtown staple) takes the stage, or at least podium, and starts to sing “You’re So Vain.” Then out walk a bunch of fashion looks on models who are also Interesting People in the World, but the show’s not done yet! After the first group of models complete their traipse, an SVP at the Center for Reproductive Rights promptly takes the microphone and first asks us if we like her dress (it’s Rachel Comey), but mostly she’s there to talk about a Supreme Court rally in DC on March 4th, which causes my table to charge into a conversation about abortion rights until Mx JVB comes back out to sing again and show us more clothes (camp socks and boots r the thing, btw, and so many unexpected sparkle trims are peeking out of knitwear; there’s also slightly acid-wash denim, in jumpsuits and pants and jackets, which, duh). Then! Aminatou Sow talks about friendship and it is so heartwarming and she’s wearing kooky glasses that make her look so cool and this fitted checkered Rachel Comey dress from a season’s past. She says, “Some of my best memories have occurred in Rachel’s clothes” and I swear I’ve just fallen in love with her. By this point my table is wrapped in a conversation about the Iowa Caucus and art funding and the trim on a sweater we all just saw and just before the final tableau of models is to show, it becomes so obvious that this is what fashion week 2.0 should be like because at its best, this is what life is like: a bunch of different people, from different lives, with different perspectives, in a room, talking about stuff they care about, in clothes that make them feel strong. —Leandra

Photos via Vogue Runway and Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows

The post One-Sentence NYFW Reviews Day 6: Khaite, Eckhaus Latta, and Gabriela Hearst appeared first on Man Repeller.

Westminster Dispatch: Tell Me Your Sign and I’ll Tell You Which Fancy Dog Breed You Are

In all my many, many years of astrologizing, I have rarely encountered a more timely—nay, urgent—assignment than this. I knew I was being called to do the Lord’s work when the grand poo-bahs and wise council of advisors on Planet Man Repeller asked that I develop the official guide to dog breeds and their corresponding astrological signs following the annual Westminster hullaballoo. The following astrology/canine mashup was developed through rigorous research, focus-group testing, dry runs, and soft openings.

I want to acknowledge that this is a very emotional topic and that many people have piping hot takes about the dog breed that they feel is their kindred soul and I totally get it. But listen, if you disagree with these pairings you can take it up with the stars, although I hear their inboxes are totally swamped right now so don’t take it personally if you don’t hear back immediately. Also don’t @ me, I am just the messenger, and also I’m on a social media break so that I can better hear the wisdom of the stars.

P.s. I picked purebreds—photographed by the talented Kate Lacey for her important tome, Show Dogs—for the purpose of astrological clarity, but all dogs are perfect and beautiful. Please adopt, don’t shop!

Aries: Italian Greyhound

Aries you are the astrological baby warrior, like a baby in a breastplate mounted on the back of a warhorse. All vim and vinegar. The dog breed that most embodies your energy is this sleek little number. Not only does this dog look so aerodynamic that if I were a stupid alien that didn’t know about Earth animals, and you told me that Italian greyhounds were amphibians that could shoot through water like a sea-snake, I would say hey! That’s a horrifying image and also very believable! These lil sluggers want to lead the charge, just like you, Aries. You are one of the born leaders of the astrological world and you need to be able to rally a crowd. Italian greyhounds may be small but they have a big boy bark that could whip the dog park into a frenzy and strike fear into the heart of one’s enemies. Move over, regular-sized greyhounds, its tiny boy time.

Taurus: French Bulldog

You have so many excellent qualities, Taurus. For example, you are known to be a bit of a gourmand and can truly enjoy a good meal, just like these hungry boys. Bulldogs are also notoriously hard to train, like you, Taurus, known to stand your ground. You teach the rest of us how to stick to our guns and ignore all the haters who tell us that we should not eat lasagna every night for a week even if we damn well please. You are a leader when it comes to sensuous pleasures, just like these lil meatballs. French bulldogs are excellent at enjoying the good things in life. Not only do these pups bring light into the world with their gorgeous little bellies, imagine one of these lil guys rolling down a hill! They do that occasionally! Isn’t that so nice of them to do for us? They want to flip flop on the couch and snort into the lap of their favorite warm human friends, just like you.

Gemini: Weimaraner

You would be forgiven for thinking that “Weimaraner” was the name of an Austrian sausage, or a sleek oceanliner, or a ubiquitous haircut for punk kids in 1980s Brussels. But it is not. Gemini is an incredibly communicative sign. They want to be in constant dialogue with other humans. Weimaraners, who are, just to remind you, not sausages, are right in line with this chatty spirit. No one raises a thoughtful eyebrow like a Weimaraner. These guys not only look like seals bred with hunting dogs, they are also great at dog sports! What sports do dogs do, you ask? I don’t know! Probably like, running and jumping and stuff I guess! Whatever! What I do know is that Geminis have an agile mind and can learn anything that interests them. A little-known Gemini fact is that yall secretly love rules. That doesn’t mean that you are inherently obedient to just any ol’ shmuck with a pocket full of ham bones. Gemini will learn to jump over stuff and run fast in a metaphorical dog sport competition only with the guidance of a human they respect. You are the Weimaraner. That is all.

Cancer: American Pitbull

I am a big pitbull fan. I would literally fight a human being on behalf of these swole little angel babies, much like I would fight a human being on behalf of the sweet and misunderstood Cancer’s in my life that are always getting a bad rap! Pitbulls are the most sensitive dogs (it is true, I will die on this hill) and yet people really are out here thinking that they are all kinds of bad things! Cancer can relate to this, as much of the internet slanders the starcrab for being manipulative or standoffish, which, okay, like obviously some Cancers can be (#notallcancers). In general though, Cancers are homebodies who are protective and really just take a while to open up. Furthermore, and I can’t stress this enough, these jacked sweeties honestly just want to cuddle. Additionally, have you ever seen one of these guys stand on his hind legs and gaze out a window? They look exactly like wistful, broad shouldered fishermen’s wives of sturdy constitution, that long for their sailors to come home. This is exactly how sweet hermit crab Cancers wait to hear their friends and family’s keys jingle outside the door!! In conclusion, Cancers are actually sweethearts and pitbulls have very muscular physiques that would look fantastic in tank tops and other form-fitting garments, thank you and adieu.

Leo: Border Collie

When picking a celestial counterpart for Leo, the choice was obvious. Leos and border collies are both cunning, naughty boys who love to be the center of attention. A border collie prances into a room and demands attention. If border collies could talk they would say, “Oh hi did you notice my beautiful plush fur and dazzlingly wet nose would you like to touch these things??” And then they would hop and sprint away seducing you into a romping game of chase. Anyone who has literally ever had a crush on a Leo knows this situation all too well. Quick, smart, charming, and maybe a little self-centered, Leos and border collies are natural analogues. But wait, what about Lassie, you ask? Lassie was the epitome of self-sacrifice and humility. Sorry to break it to you kids, but Lassie was played by a total bitch who was only in it for the fame. Anyway, Leos are hot and border collies are hot and they both know it so my work here is done.

Virgo: Bernese Mountain Dog

Once I met this beautiful Bernese mountain dog named Trixie who really just wanted to put her things in order. If these exquisite furry giants had Pinterest boards they would be loaded up with organizational hacks and farm wedding shit. Virgos are sometimes known as the zodiac’s resident control freaks and no dog better embodies this than Trixie the Bernese Mountain Dog. I watched her sprint from one side of a farm to another, just getting her patrol on. Then, when she came back inside, she immediately got to work collecting all her various bones and toys and other disgusting goopy things her humans touched with their bare hands like it was no big deal. She then placed them in the neatest pile I’ve ever seen a non-human creature make and when she was done she padded over to her humans looking so fulfilled and also desirous of more work. Raise your hand if you know a Virgo that gets down like this! What I am trying to draw your attention to is that Virgos get shit done and Trixie is a very good girl. You’re welcome.

Libra: Shih Tzu

If Shih Tzus could roam the earth on two legs, had thumbs and the capacity for speech, they would ask for the keys to your car, drive straight to the galleria, sign up for a Macy’s credit card in your name, and come home a new bitch. Libra understands this impulse. But, like a carefully weighted scale, there are two sides to both Libras and shih tzus. Sure, sure, they would both happily ruin your credit given the opportunity, but they are also quintessential people-pleasers. Shih Tzu were bred to sit in laps and be beautiful. If you are loved by a Libra, they probably also want to sit in your lap looking beautiful. The connections are literally myriad you guys, let me hit you with some bullet points because we don’t have all day: Libras and shih tzus are magnetic and look great in high ponytails; they both require extensive grooming and attention; if they bit you it probably wouldn’t hurt that bad; and they would happily go on a gentle stroll with you, and when they arrived home they would both prefer to get their cuddle on rather than go out clubbing. Shih tzus hate clubbing.

Scorpio: Saluki

Scorpios get a bad rap for being the burn-your-house-down obsessives of the zodiac. Now, I am not saying that there has never once been a Scorpio who’s whole deal was, like, arson and mayhem, but that is the exception and not the rule! Now, a silky saluki would never burn your house down for a variety of pragmatic reasons (thumbs, ability to plot maliciously, etc) but these elegant canines have a level of devotion that is very much in line with Scorpio’s tendency to be, hmmm what’s another word for obsessive…passionate! Yes, Scorpios and salukis share this absolute dedication to the humans that they choose. And say what you will about Scorpios, if you’ve ever been chosen by a good one, you already know that Scorpio has the kind of freaky nasty sex magic that will have you waking up out of a two-week erotic bacchanal being like, oh gosh, should we get married? I cannot speak to a saluki’s sexual appeal, but come on. Look at that standoffish nobility, that proud snout, the flowing hair! Buyer beware: neither Scorpios nor salukis are lap dogs. They show their affection by, idk, collecting all your discarded chewing gum and shaping it into a sculpture dedicated to your love. Or, like, chasing down a game animal and then carrying its carcass back to you in its beautiful jaws.

Sagittarius: Husky

Have you seen those videos where huskies spontaneously develop the capacity for speech and sound like they are just a few vocal cords away from being like, “Hey girl!!!!!!!”? The scientific reason for this is that huskies are all spiritually Sags and just want to tell you true and good things and then go for a hike. Also, Sags are known to love animals and have pets, and I like to think that on Alaskan dog sled teams there is one husky who is like Daddy Husky and then all the other huskies are his baby pets whom he adopted and likes to take care of because they are all so sweet!! Huskies are independent and need to be taken outdoors often to get their romp on, much like every Sag I have ever met. Have you recently looked into the eyes of a Sagittarius? Did you notice the warm spark of sharp intellect and a kind of total attention that set your whole heart aglow? It is literally just like gazing into the eyes of a husky. Try it. Love it. Subscribe to it. Review it on Yelp.

Capricorn: Afghan Hound

When a Cap or an Afghan hound walks into a room, the whole vibe shifts and it is suddenly like, holy shit who is that? That creature means business and literally can have whatever they want. Here, hound or Cap, take this burrito I was literally still eating, oh what’s that? You have already taken the burrito out of my hands and claimed it as your own? Yes. That is only right. You deserve it. And yet, both of these creatures are full of contradictions. As cut-throat and ambitious Caps can be, they are also extremely sensitive and benefit from affirmation and steady love. Much like an afghan hound, bred to be a ferocious hunter, needs to be tenderly brushed and spoken to very sweetly. If you have either one of these creatures in your life, make sure you take the time to stoke their perfect locks and say, “Oh wow look how good and big you are! You have the spiritual fortitude of a warhorse and the beauty of a wisteria meadow! Look at you! You are like a deer only hotter!” This is what Caps and afghan hounds need so that they can get back out into the world and make shit happen.

Aquarius: St. Bernard

If the founding charter of the United Nations had an astrology sign as a mascot, it would be Aquarius, the zodiac’s resident humanitarian. If Aquarius had a dog as a mascot, it would be the St. Bernard, the literal saint of the dog world. These big perfect lumps have been used up in the Alps to find humans lost in the snow for hundreds of years. People would just send groups of two or three out into the snow by themselves to rescue people! They were so independent and brave and smart and dedicated just like Aquarius and I’m not crying you’re crying. Aquarius really just wants the world to be okay, and its dog counterpart not only shares that wish but actively works to make it happen. Yes, by the aforementioned heroic rescues, but also by being the most giant sweeties that ever set paw on this earth. If you are not convinced, I dare you to encounter an Aquarius aglow with easy-going and quirky inner light and not immediately think of that dogstar Beethoven who, although I haven’t seen the movie, was probably just doing nice quirky stuff the whole time! Right? I already know I’m right. I have the internet, thank you very much.

Pisces: Poodle

Okay so, my first piece of evidence for this astrological pairing is that RiRi is a Pisces. Ri Ri is also perfect and a model for us all, and so are poodles. And if you’re like, nah, poodles are played out. Let me counter that with this: Have you ever seen a poodle lay down? They cross their little front legs over one another like graceful ladies. So. You do the math, sir. Furthermore, poodles are incredibly sensitive and intuitive dogs, much like Pisces, the zodiac’s resident psychic. Also! Poodles and Pisces both love water. And if you’re like, no way, aren’t they worried about their bouffants? The answer is no, they are completely friggin unbothered. They have water-resistant hair and actual webbed feet! They can go for a lil swim and then pop right up out of the water looking fresh as a daisy because they were bred to be gorgeous amphibious divas, and probably to break ducks necks in their jaws or whatever. Poodles and Pisces bond hard with the people they love and they both want to go on long walks at night with these people, gazing up at the stars and talking about ghosts and other dimensions and stuff. Yes, it is a little known fact that poodles are esoteric bitches that love a good woo-woo chat. If you don’t believe me, ask a poodle. If the poodle doesn’t respond, you can take that as a yes.

Photos via Show Dogs : A Photographic Breed Guide by  Kate Lacey.

The post Westminster Dispatch: Tell Me Your Sign and I’ll Tell You Which Fancy Dog Breed You Are appeared first on Man Repeller.

The Best Makeup Look Is Blush—Just Blush

Over the past year, I’ve found myself wearing less makeup. It could be the influence of working in an office where most of my colleagues come to work makeup-free; or that I’ve become acutely aware that this is probably the best my skin is ever going to look, so I might as well make the most of it; or the quite obvious realization that the less time it takes me to get ready in the morning, the more time I can spend in bed—but whatever the reason, I’ve been on a delightful journey toward requiring less to feel “done.”

But as much as I’ve been enjoying my minimalist-ish makeup routine, there have been days where I’ve craved a little something extra. I imagine this is the same feeling that Lipstick People get when they’re not wearing any, only to swipe some on and feel reinvigorated in an instant. I am not a lipstick wearer, but I’m happy to report that my own solution came to me a few months ago, when a friend I thought never wore makeup pledged her love for blush. Suddenly a montage of her rosy cheeks ran through my mind and blush, I realized, is exactly what I’d been looking for.

Since then, I’ve been using blush as my own personal cherry-on-top whenever my mascara+brows+concealer combination isn’t feeling quite special enough. On days I’m feeling exhausted or especially ugh, an almost unnoticeable tap of blush to the tops of my cheeks is enough to make me feel temporality revived. On Saturday nights, where I might have once reached for an eye shadow palette, I’m happy to go for a coral cream blush instead—creating a certified makeup look with a single product and my fingertips. Blush is makeup minimalism at its finest and—dare I say—prettiest.

Of course, blush never really went anywhere but, for a lot of people, it still hasn’t shaken its grandma reputation, or at the very least, it doesn’t come across as a product you can have very much fun with. But there’s more to blush than barely-there Cloudpaint, I assure you. Below are three looks, brought to life by makeup artist Mollie Gloss, that prove blush is the only product that can take you from fresh-out-of-the-shower flush, to sun-kissed, to beauty-editorial chic without a even a swipe of bronzer or touch of glitter.

How to Look Like You’ve Just Arrived Back at the Lodge After a Long Day on the Slopes

For anyone who thought blush was just for cheeks.

“Start by centering your blush on the apples of your cheeks, then extend the color up under your eyes and lightly across your nose,” says Mollie. Using a liquid blush like Armani Neo Nude A-Blush #53 allows you to carefully layer the color, making it hard to accidentally go overboard. Choosing a liquid formula over a powder also helps maintain a natural glassy skin look, while lasting just as long on the skin as powder, so your pink cheeks stick around way past sundown.

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How to Look Like You’ve Just Had Your Outfit Complimented by a Stylish Stranger on the Subway

For anyone who wants to hop off the highlighter local train and jump onto the blush express.

“Starting on the outside corner of your eye; blend up, out, and down using a fluffy brush like the Sigma Beauty F03 High Cheekbone Highlighter brush,” says Mollie. “Start with a light layer of blush and gradually build, keeping your application light and even, until you’ve reached your desired shade. Make sure you check your makeup from a mirror that’s at least an arm’s length away, so you can check the symmetry between the two sides and make sure your color application looks even.” If you have a deep skin tone like Halimotu, Mollie suggests looking for intensely pigmented blush, like Sunnie’s Face Airblush in Disco. Bright red, orange, and berry tones will stay true to color when applied on deep skin without ever looking ashy.

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How to Look Like You’ve Just Run a Mile Without Breaking a Sweat

For anyone who wishes they could keep their natural post-stairs, post-embarrassing story, post-bath flush—without actually having to do any of the above.

This blush look sits below the cheekbones giving you that truly flustered-in-a-cute-but-not-sweaty-way look. Start by tapping a cream blush like Milk Makeup Lip + Cheek stick in Perk on to the apples of your cheeks with your fingers or a kabuki brush—this dabbing application method keeps the color looking bright. From there, continue to lightly dab the product below the apples in an upside-down triangle shape, basically applying the product anywhere your cheeks feel soft and fleshy. “If you want a more pulled-together flushed look, you can also add some of the product to the center of your lips,” says Mollie.

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If you need any more convincing that blush—and blush alone—is the best makeup look, I’m afraid I just don’t know what to tell you. I genuinely haven’t believed in the power of a single product this much since teen-me first swiped on mascara, so I’m expecting this new love affair to be just as, if not more, memorable.

Do you have more blush application tips? Product recommendations? Makeup suggestions? I’m all cheeks—see you in the comments.

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Photographer: Sabrina Santiago

Stylist: Harling Ross

Art Direction: Tiffany Wilkinson

Market: Elizabeth Tamkin

Makeup: Mollie Gloss

Hair: Rachel Leidig

Models: Keturah at Muse NYC, Layla at Fenton Models, Halimotu at Official Models NY.

The post The Best Makeup Look Is Blush—Just Blush appeared first on Man Repeller.

What Makes a First-Date Outfit “Good”?

Dating again in New York City feels like a cat being thrown into a pool. I am confused and displeased. I am barely able to keep my head above water. Somehow everyone watching me finds my attempts at navigation amusing.

But after eight years of serial long-term monogamy, here I am: A curmudgeonly wet cat emerging from the shallow end of a pool, finally ready to settle into casual dating with no particular endgame in sight. Liberating! Empowering! My therapist is thrilled for me. I have no idea what I’m doing.

Don’t get me wrong, I’ve been single for periods of time in New York and have dabbled in dating. (The sheer STRENGTH required!) It never took long, though, before I had latched onto someone and formed a cute codependency. But I’m trying to resist my old impulses, which is why this new era feels fresh and particularly rife with possibility. I want to walk out on a first date when they tell me they want to touch my feet! I want a boy named Chad to fall asleep on me at dinner! I want to force someone into a pierogi crawl that starts at 11 a.m. and ends when we feel like we have to puke! And I need a solid, First Date Outfit (FDO) to do all of it.

There is an undeniable art to the FDO. I know what I’m typically drawn to: pants so tight I have to shed them like a snake, a sweater that exposes a clavicle or perhaps ~two~, etc. but I knew there had to be a real formula for happiness that pushed me out of wearing an innocuous jeans and tee (incidentally, what I wore when I met my previous partner of two years). I asked the Man Repeller audience for the criteria that are paramount when it comes to putting together a look and behold, they/you delivered:

The outfit must be comfortable and make you feel comfortable. It should have nothing that you have to fidget with, and nothing that makes you feel like you’re a different person.
It must be a balanced combination of trying, but also not trying. It should look nice enough to look put together, but casual enough that you don’t look like you spent hours overthinking it.
It CANNOT show sweat or hold odors.
It must include a subtly flirtatious element like a hint of a bra, a soft sweater, a heel, or jeans that make your butt look amazing.

With those in mind, Harling Ross and her flowing locks came to my aid. She styled me in four first-date looks that ticked every box, and I’ll be keeping them in my back pocket for eternity. Because I may be single for that long lol.

That’s Business, Baby

When I put on all the components of this outfit, I felt like a real business binch. For those of you with workplaces that are a little more buttoned up (literally), this felt like a perfect work-to-drinks option. The pants I could probably do the splits in, if I was capable of doing the splits, and the camel blazer brought the woo-woo-ness of the sequin shirt and sparkly ballet flat back to earth. It achieved all the criteria: comfort, trying but not trying, not sweat-tastic, and flirty because if you have what Amelia Diamond calls ‘Magpie-Itis’ then you will either be drawn to me or have my shoe in your mouth by the end of the date. Win!

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Did I Stutter When I Said “Come Hither”?

When Harling put me in this second look I truly felt sexy from the second I stepped out into the foyer. This set from Staud is, as Tyra once noted, “Hoe but make it fashion.” The trousers are nice and long and–SURPRISE!–the top is actually cropped! Pairing it with an oversized sweater is totally something I would do to make myself feel completely at ease. Especially when that sweater slips oh-so-gently away from the shoulders. I felt comfortable, confident, and STEAMY! Are you warm?

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Buy a Girl a Drink First!

I love this outfit so much, partially because it just feels so Harling to me, and partially because it delighted me by being something that I didn’t think I would ever wear but absolutely would now that I know how it makes me feel! I never think I look good in skirts, but something about this starchy one paired with the tights, knee-high heeled boots, and a bevy of layers on top made it feel just really right. I insisted on the velvet bow in my hair to complete the look. I felt comfortable, I felt elegant, I felt pretty, and I could absolutely walk a museum mile in this. Though not a great option for that one type of person who insists on making your first date the climbing gym.

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Oh, I Didn’t See You There Because I’m Very Vision Impaired

I love this look. I wouldn’t say it reads overtly feminine or sexy in the way that some of the others do, but that’s also very moi. This outfit says: I’m ready to tell you that I think your passion project needs a critical eye or Do not try to pretend to be more online than me because you are decidedly not. It was comfortable, it was cotton for minimal pit sweat, and it made me feel like I embodied a cool effortlessness.

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I hope that at least one of these has inspired you to switch up your requisite FDO. It certainly has rocked my world and ushered a veritable FOUNT of date-night outfit ideas for the dates that hit, the dates that flop, and the dates that make for a great story. Now New York’s Most Eligible Bachelorette just needs to… book one lol.

What’s your perfect First-Date Outfit formula? Any criteria we missed? Meet me in the comments section with a glass of wine and good conversation.

Styled by Harling Ross. Shot at Legacy Records.

The post What Makes a First-Date Outfit “Good”? appeared first on Man Repeller.

NYFW Street Style Day 4: Non-Stop “Full Looks”

I recently realized that I’m most bored by my own outfits when I build them one piece at a time. Jeans I feel like wearing, then a sweater I feel like wearing, followed by a coat I feel like wearing, and so on. But when I stop and consider what pants would look interesting with what jacket, and what shoes would make that pairing feel even more intentional, I land somewhere much more satisfying. In the biz we call this A Full Look. It’s less mix-and-match, less centered around a single statement item or a pair of jeans you wear every day; more head-to-toe. Pls see Céline Dion for reference.

There’s no better time for this kind of outfit than fashion week (heard of it?), but day 4 was particularly full-look fertile. It seems everyone was thinking about how the disparate parts of their outfit could be in conversation with each other, whether in the form of head-to-toe pink (slide 2, slide 7), or something more subtle, like a black outfit with rust boots, a khaki trench coat, and a black bag with brown lining (slide 12). These are outfits you want to color swatch. The kind you think of all at once rather than bit by bit, because the whole is more than the sum of its parts.

So next time you’re standing naked in front of your mirror, surrounded by a clothing tornado of your own making, feel free to click through below for ideas about how to make it all come together.

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p.s. ICYMI: Day 1 was all about coats, day 2 was peak pants, and day 3 was the year (day) of the camel.

The post NYFW Street Style Day 4: Non-Stop “Full Looks” appeared first on Man Repeller.

One-Sentence NYFW Reviews Day 5: The Row, Oscar de la Renta, Veronica Beard, and More

Man Repeller’s famous (in niche circles) one-sentence reviews are BACK and better than ever (I predict), so floss your teeth and tie your shoelaces, my elegant mongooses (just Googled and the plural of mongoose is regrettably not “mongeese”). We’ll be whipping up dispatches like they’re the fashion week equivalent of egg whites, occasionally light on actual fashion but perpetually heavy on the spice that is LIFE ITSELF–the emotions, the celebrity sightings, the subway delays, the elaborate snacks, the joy of staring at the back of a familiar head, etcetera! This page will be updated once a day, every morning, with the prior day’s insights and observations, so don’t forget to check back. See you in the comments.

Day Five
Oscar de la Renta

9 p.m. is very late for a fashion show to begin on a Monday night in the middle of February but I’m not here to complain, or sweep rain, and honestly, some clothes really do have the ability to perk you the hell up; the first time that happened last night at Oscar de la Renta was in response to a black blazer with floral embroidery in the right corner, taking the place of a prom corsage for this grown up attempt at embodying the modern woman, and lest I forget her silk charmeuse scarf! Flowing like butter on a pan, or whatever. Then there was the larger than life mullet skirt—black tie to be sure but flipped on its head, thanks to a pair of thigh-high duck boots in leather (though there were examples of these shoes in velvet too) and finally—finale!—the feathered-skirt velvet-turtlenecked dress to end all red carpet commentary. Where were you at the Oscars? —Leandra

Puppets and Puppets

I came into the Puppets and Puppets AW20 show knowing very little about the indie label— having only taken some brain space to ponder the name: Why “Puppets and Puppets”? Who are in the first set of puppets and who are in the second? What kind of puppets are we talking? Harling, Eliz, and I congregated in a ballroom in Midtown and ogled the crowd of obscenely cool, young artist types—this was not your usual editor/buyer fashion show fare. The looks themselves, kicked off by a full priest habit with a twist (a cookie belt), were worn by a who’s who of young New York creatives, like Danny Bowien, Caroline Polachek, and Richie Shazam. They included but were sure as hell not limited to: a nude “power mesh” body stocking and merkin thong worn by a pregnant Alexandra Marzella, a spandex leotard with a space hood and Tiffany blue horns, and a velvet princess hat with an 11-yard organza train. My mouth was agape for the duration, but was met with a smirk near the end because I love shit like this. I love when artists say to fashion week “Guess what? How about this.” How. about. It. —Amalie

Proenza Schouler

I was a little distracted by the conversations I struck up with Emily Ratajowski about the difference between being an only child and having siblings (she is the former) and Eva Chen about her Carnegie Hill mom outfit (tapered ivory trousers and a light brown sweater with kitten heels) to really sink my teeth into the 8 p.m. show that was Proenza Schouler, but the lamé tank dresses smacked me right back into reality, if only to admire the flapping wings hanging onto one such number as if a backpack that doubles as a very luxurious sleeping bag and another set wrapped around the model. Sometimes you just need a hug, you know? Oh! And per the shoes, did you ever have those plush shower flip-flops at camp that were like walking on marshmallows? They’re designer heels now. #Blessed. —Leandra

Veronica Beard

You know the blazer in your closet you always wear for a day of important meetings? That sweater that never gets put away (all hail the dumping chair) because you always want to wear it? The pair of simple but flattering black pants that never let you down? The one coat you constantly reach for even though you have several? Those are the types of clothes that Veronica Beard showcased today—styles that don’t intimidate, but always impress. These are clothes that make you feel glamorous and comfortable at the same time—a balance perfectly expressed by the crystal fringe embellished LBD that a pregnant Hillary Rhoda wore to close the show. —Elizabeth

Carolina Herrera

I woke up this morning when Austin’s very early alarm went off with one of the biggest emotional hangovers of my entire life born, no doubt, from too much sugar and too little rest courtesy of my action-packed weekend, so I pulled a pillow over my head and went back to sleep for another HOUR, which felt positively decadent, and definitely put me in a better frame of mind to step inside the refined, white-carpeted world of Carolina Herrera–even from the very back row. I apologize in advance that my brain wheels are currently greased by wedding thoughts, but please join me in ogling one of the most perfectly ethereal white dresses I’ve ever seen. In non-wedding observations, I can’t wait to recreate this excellent alt-black-tie outfit idea: black trousers and a white button-down with a dramatic bustier layered on top. —Harling

The Row

What do you expect from The Row if not the most subtle styling tips to apply either to the wardrobe you already have or the one you’d like to imagine—here are the basics: balaclavas are going nowhere but they are now way more subdued; if you want to pair a blazer with an overcoat, make it a single—not double—breast; yes, you can wear sandals as boots, you’ll just need the right socks; and if you’ve ever felt like you can’t be both a navy person and a brown person, think again!!!!!!!!! Maybe don’t pair both with black in the same outfit but heather camel is fair game. —Leandra

Day Four
Chromat

If you asked me last week if I thought I’d spend Sunday night at a place called #RiseByWe, a gym operated by WeWork, watching a strength-training session, its participants dressed in ROYGBIV gradients reminiscent of the Speedo one-pieces you may have worn to swimming lessons as a child, I probably would have said “no” and moved on pretty quickly. But life can surprise you sometimes. So there I stook last night, underground at the Chromat show, watching models like Kimberly Drew and Alok demonstrate how it’s done (all in service of “protesting the exclusionary gender binary that has come to define the Olympics”), completely envious of their spunky energy and flexible range of motion in the face of a steadily creeping Monday morning. —Edith

Collina Strada

This season’s Collina Strada show took place at The Dance, a new(ish) nightclub formerly known as ”that place where I had a weird time on my husband’s birthday.” I was excited by the prospect of rewriting this association with some help from Collina Strada, but, as luck would have it, another “weird time” was had. The clothes themselves were true to what Collina Strada is known for—they were easy-to-wear, environmentally-friendly pieces that echo the sentiments and political fixations of the moment. This time, though, designer Hillary Taymour took a sunny approach to the topic of global warming, sending her models into the show’s garden set wearing bright prints and carrying rakes, hoes, and spades. Reception in the audience was subdued, as viewers were either too packed into the small space to murmur amongst themselves or, more hopefully, mulling over how to best process this steamy hothouse vision of the future. The best moment of the show was when Paramore’s Hayley Williams closed out the evening with a powerful performance of her new song ‘Simmer.’ Everyone stayed seated to watch until a collective groove took over the room–proof that clothes are always only one part of getting the bigger picture. —Ruby

Sies Marjan

Have you ever owned a pair of real Danish clogs? I’ve had like ten pairs (of clogs) over the years but none have actually been Danish and I’ve never even known I want a pair until a parade of men’s looks from Sies Marjan’s Fall 20 range marched the runway on the 59th floor of a building with floor to ceiling glass windows overlooking New York. They were paired with gold-accented denim and a trench, one white pajama set with small floral renderings printed on it (my look to be sure) and on the women, more delicate pairs combined with chunky socks and the most gorgeous shades of yellow and green and pink and beige. Sometimes I wonder: what’s the difference between color and Color. It’s Sies. (Can I call it that?) —Leandra

Bevza

One of my biggest sartorial frustrations is when a shirt doesn’t tuck properly. Another is when a long vest or coat or blazer constricts me too much OR bunches up against whatever I have layered underneath. At Bevza, designer Svetlana Bevza considered it all: the long shirts had side slits up to the models’ hips. A brown button down was tailored on the sides so that you could tuck it in the front without it looking bulky or like a weird unintentional tail. The blazers had cuts in the back so that they flared out to give them a touch of femininity. It was like Bevza read all the “dressing struggle”-related comments on Man Repeller and then designed a collection to solve for everything. THANK YOU. —Elizabeth

Brock

There are two kinds of people in the world, those who pair navy with black (nee Phoebe Philo) and those who pair brown with black (nee Miuccia Prada)—Brock is the latter and what you get as a result is this, like, deeply feminine, romantic collection of clothes that Harling described pretty perfectly as “Little Women but make it fashion.” Today the models wore layers of embroidered tulle over their faces and hair, tucked back with their ponytails to create a sort of “sporty bride” head. Their brown suede not-quite-knee-length boots, which were flat, signaled my burgeoning-trend-o-meter because they were the same practical height as the ones I saw at Tory Burch this morning. One styling tip I’ll take away blends a thin leather waist belt with a silk scarf, rolled up really skinny to tie above or below said belt, leaving a pointed end at the middle point, peeking out from behind. And as for that white gown? Someone! Anyone! Please. Host a garden wedding. —Leandra

Area

I was the first in line (a first and likely a last) for the Area show this morning, hosted at the Africa Center on 109th St and Fifth Ave, the interior of which could be aptly described by a 2004 David Byrne song I’ve been listening to this week called “Glass, Concrete, & Stone.” Through the big, brutalist windows, you could see passersby with strollers and kids and big winter coats looking in and considering the spectacle from a slight remove: What were they thinking about the clothes (and the robotic, synchronized way the attendees watched them through their phones)? Were they surprised by when the model revealed a heart-shaped cut-out in the back of a short dress? Did they wonder about the hair, styled in a ponytail wrapped around the models’ necks? What struck me about this show was how it could outfit and appeal to so many different people—those who prefer full coverage or those who tend toward the scantily clad; those in search of a quintessential 90s going-out-dress and those who covet something with a strong sleeve; those who like a sheer tight or those who opt for a bare leg; those who want their clothes to do some of the talking, to break the ice, but leave them room to do the rest. —Edith

Tory Burch

Welcome to Sunday morning at Sotheby’s during fashion week, where the espresso beans are Sant Ambroeus-branded and the runway show is also an art installation featuring human-size candelabras. I should tell you that I was seated next to two of the stars of Cheer, and everyone was losing their shit! They were both wearing full Tory Sport looks, and one of them thought her hair looked terrible but I can assure you it looked great and the pink sweater/skirt combo in the triptych above was there purely because they both mentioned how much they loved it. Anyway, here are a few things I picked up on: strapless garments are coming back, and we’re being asked to wear them with boots; the best coat option for next winter, if you are not interested in a cropped, low-key aviator-inspired style to pair with your skinny jeans and thigh-high, drawstring boots is 10/10 a robe coat; square-toe shoes are coming back in a more mainstream way—sorry denizens of the Lower East Side! And finally, an army green sweater with electric red trouser pants tucked into embroidered pointed toe boots appears to be the simple styling template and color combination no one wanted to see coming but we will, no doubt, be taking. I can lead if you want. —Leandra

Day Three
Laquan Smith

I would give my left arm to someday possess half the glamour of the Laquan Smith woman. The utter sex appeal of this show!!! Texture, big boots, and bodycon ran amok, or, I guess, catwalked. Strutted. It reminded me of the runway shows of the 90s where the women were so bodied and the walks were so luxe that all you could do was stare slack-jawed. Wish I could have grabbed a pair of quilted puffer boots or metallic pants on the way out as everyone was clearly off to continue their elegant, sexy party and I was off to inhale a bowl of pasta. —Amalie

Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson is known for her satin, crotchet, and lace garments, but for me, her show this season was all about the accessories. Long gloves and scrunched knee-high knit socks paired with sandals and corset belts complemented the clothing well and showed the versatility of the designs: wear your floral dress to work with a blazer and then swap it for a corset belt and sexy long gloves on a night out. For my purposes, I’ve now figured out a warm enough way to walk the Williamsburg Bridge in a dress once again: just add a tall knit sock! —Elizabeth

Sandy Liang

The energy at the door of Sandy Liang was somewhat manic–a slew of shivering humans waiting in line to get in, and frenzied publicists scrambling to write people’s seat assignments on notecards as quickly as possible. Once we made our way inside and sat down–on a row of benches inside the lobby of Stuyvesant (a public high school in Tribeca)–it was as if the room let out a collective sigh of contentment, and that’s before we even saw the clothes! Which were good by the way, and markedly different from the brand’s prior collections, erring on the side of pared-down (save for a few eyeball-patterned pieces) and firmly conjuring the realities of an actual woman’s wardrobe instead of simply the runway version of it. I’ve always enjoyed Sandy Liang’s collections, but this one felt like a tangible turning point–a demonstration of her ability to the streamlined mood that is permeating the industry at the moment, but not without sneaking in a little human anatomy while she’s at it. —Harling

R13

WHEW! Fun fact about me: I thought I was a punk in my youth. I wore platform Doc Martens and heavy eyeliner and leather jackets and smoked CIGARETTES (sorry mom!), so I can say with certainty that 2009 Amalie would have flipped her little lid for this R13 runway. And the sweet thing is: I think that tiny punk bird still flutters inside my heart, so as I watched these comically large bowler hats and chunkzilla shoes and oversized jackets that could fit three grown men in them thunder down the runway, I felt alive in a way that I haven’t in a bit. There’s a 50% chance that in 3 years, I return to my roots. I’ll probably be wearing R13. —Amalie

Hellessy

I spent the majority of the Hellessy show looking at the models’ feet, which–before you accuse me of being the pervert that I 100% am–were the style star of the show. There were monochromatic pairings of white or black socks and delicate lace-up sandals corseted over pants (reminiscent of this trend that Harling Ross forecasted back in resort season). The clothes themselves were a field day of silk, velvet, brocade, and tweed all harnessed by effortless designs. Catch me wearing this oversized sweater someday soon, playfully slapping everyone I know with the sleeves. —Amalie

Susan Alexandra

Susan Alexandra’s show invite this year described it as a musical, but even when it opened with a splashy musical number I was still convinced the term was being used loosely. Absolutely incorrect!!! This was a full-on 30-minute original musical worthy of Broadway. Starring a mix of comedians and actors I recognized from her past presentations, it followed a semi-autobiographical story about Susan gathering the courage to open a store in Soho. Damn, I can’t figure out how to explain this without making it sounding dumb, but the truth is it was the coolest and most creative show I’ve seen in the eight fashion weeks I’ve attended. Nobody could stop smiling. The songs are in my head! Fashion week is so often about spectacle, and this was definitely that, but it was also different in that it actually offered more than Instagram fodder (in fact, it didn’t really translate via iPhone at all). It felt almost vintage in that way. The prevailing feeling as everyone walked out was that it couldn’t have happened anywhere but New York. —Haley

Christopher John Rogers

This evening marked my second time sitting in front of a Christopher John Rogers runway, and once again it was evident that this former up-and-comer has fully and completely arrived—as evidenced by his power to put on a show with the kind of qualities I fantasized about before working in the industry: a great soundtrack, literal smoke, fun lighting, clothes so dramatic they make your breath catch in your throat, and a crowd that freely whoops and cheers with every modelesque flourish. And most important of all, nothing felt overwrought, or piled on simply for the sake of a compelling Instagram—it was a genuine expression of joy and artistry, right down to Rogers’ show-stealing final bow. —Harling

Tibi

At the Tibi presentation (which was chock-full of clever references to air travel–from neck rests that double as coat collar decor to airport-branded socks), I ran into the brand’s president Elaine, who started talking to me about the experience of decorating an apartment. “You really have to seek out stuff that’s fun to look out but super practical at the same time,” she said, and we both locked eyes and knew exactly what the other person was thinking: Tibi. Tibi! The reason it appeals season after season is its ability to harmoniously combine these things that are so often at odds with each other, and this new collection was no exception–with beautifully tailored pants, skirts cut in swaths of structured fabric, sweaters rendered in the perfect shade of “oat milk latte,” and shoes that look like black-tie versions of airline slippers. —Harling

Adam Lippes

Oftentimes fashion shows are either about having fun or trying to solve problem, but rarely both. At the Adam Lippes show this morning—where breakfast and some of the best berries I’ve eaten all winter was served—corporate dressing problems were addressed with playful aplomb. The wrap-around runway, which was the path between tables at the new Verōnika restaurant upstairs at Fotografiska (which apparently has a long reservation waitlist), featured models wearing extra-long flared sleeve lurex tops (the kind you can push up your elbow while you type), the pointiest blazer shoulders possible (that can still fit under your commuter coat), and ruffled shirts peeking out of sweater collars (the plain white shirt’s delightfully weird older sibling). It was a show that answered the oft-ignored but evergreen question: “How can I have fun getting dressed for work?” —Elizabeth

Day Two
PH5

Walking up to the Ph5 presentation, located at the Standard Highline, I was almost blown away, literally, by a freezing wind tunnel on West 13th Street. Maybe appropriate, because I soon entered a warm room with a digital mountainscape as its backdrop and models wandering around in various cold-weather gear, like an incredible recycled boiled wool twinset, a dainty cotton shirt layered under a ski suit, a fresh take on a balaclava, girly socks paired with hiking boots, patchwork cotton puffer jackets, and hemlines with ski slope curves (as Mallory noted in our Fashion Week Slack channel, “the era of gore-tex-chic really is upon us”). Hot cider in clear glasses was served alongside the collection at a bar looking over the Hudson River, and design duo Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang were milling around chatting with everyone, answering questions, catching me taking a selfie with a model in my Ph5 cardigan from FW18. Only part of the collection was on view, but you can see the rest on Vogue.com (and you should, bc it’s goooooood). —Elizabeth

PRISCAVera

In the belly of midtown, a small but elegant library was the backdrop to PRISCAvera’s runway show, which was a mix of grunge and street and intriguingly quiet style. Juxtapositions! I was perched in a balcony section with Sabrina overlooking the scene, where we watched the show’s edgy attendants, who all seemed to hug and know each other. Then, the grand finale! The final circuit of models arranged themselves for display in the library stacks opposite us, all dressed in muted colors accented by small shocks of pink or neon, and without fail–a pair of Nike sneakers. —Amalie

Rag & Bone

At Vesey Studios—a new venue that’s waaaay over on the west side close to the Freedom Tower, but near zero immediate subways, FYI—Rag & Bone showgoers sat in a dark room on risers. Beverages were served in dimly lit kiosks around the perimeter of the space, like at a concert. The lights were extremely low and remained low throughout the entire show, with models illuminated only by spotlights. Sitting next to my seat mate, show beer in hand, I witnessed slouchy sturdy boots paired with slip and long knit dresses, oversized plaid shorts paired with tall boots (you heard it here first!), and sleeve cuffs hanging wayyyyy past the models’ wrists. Looks were cozy and comfy: fair isle knits and flowy ponchos, and my favorite, sheer black tights paired with open toed platforms and … sneakers!! This entire collection said “well-dressed cold-weather commuter-wear” and I’m here for that. —Elizabeth

Monse

Calling all fans of the uneven hemline, still riding the side of the 90s train that was highly inspired by English punk, feeling experimental enough to affix both safety pins and crystals to their tights: I have the fashion show for you! Monse, held on Wall Street at 6pm yday (I’m writing this from 6 a.m. the next day, fyi) had a ton of tartan baked into suiting, lots of mens tweed, a hodgepodge of both those aforementioned safety pins and crystals and Eva Chen, dressed as a #stickofbutter in the front row, was wearing a newsboy cap. —Leandra

Day One
Christian Siriano

The red (actually, pink) carpet leading to my first Christian Siriano runway show was almost more exciting than the main event, seeing as it was loaded with celebs like Heidi Klum, Tan France, Alexa Chung, and Rachel Bilson just rubbing elbows and talking about celeb stuff. The clothes themselves—punk and candy-colored—told me that if you thought the aughts were exempt from the 20-year nostalgia cycle, you’re entirely wrong, but that’s okay because the coup de foudre of the evening was watching Leslie Jones absolutely lose it over Coco Rocha walking in her Siriano couture. —Amalie

Rachel Comey

You gotta picture this scene—we’re at La Mercerie (a swanky-ass restaurant attached to a store that sells the kind of furniture that decorates lofts and park-view apartments), which is directly next to Stadium Goods on Howard and Mercer and a group of no more than 60 people (including Molly Ringwald and Cindy Sherman!!) are seated around six-ish tables when Mx Justin Vivian Bond (a transgender artist and downtown staple) takes the stage, or at least podium, and starts to sing “You’re So Vain.” Then out walk a bunch of fashion looks on models who are also Interesting People in the World, but the show’s not done yet! After the first group of models complete their traipse, an SVP at the Center for Reproductive Rights promptly takes the microphone and first asks us if we like her dress (it’s Rachel Comey), but mostly she’s there to talk about a Supreme Court rally in DC on March 4th, which causes my table to charge into a conversation about abortion rights until Mx JVB comes back out to sing again and show us more clothes (camp socks and boots r the thing, btw, and so many unexpected sparkle trims are peeking out of knitwear; there’s also slightly acid-wash denim, in jumpsuits and pants and jackets, which, duh). Then! Aminatou Sow talks about friendship and it is so heartwarming and she’s wearing kooky glasses that make her look so cool and this fitted checkered Rachel Comey dress from a season’s past. She says, “Some of my best memories have occurred in Rachel’s clothes” and I swear I’ve just fallen in love with her. By this point my table is wrapped in a conversation about the Iowa Caucus and art funding and the trim on a sweater we all just saw and just before the final tableau of models is to show, it becomes so obvious that this is what fashion week 2.0 should be like because at its best, this is what life is like: a bunch of different people, from different lives, with different perspectives, in a room, talking about stuff they care about, in clothes that make them feel strong. —Leandra

Photos via Vogue Runway and Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows

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