Matthew Houde's Blog, page 27

Playa Brasilito: An Authentic Beach Town in Guanacaste

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Nestled between the popular resort destinations of Playa Flamingo and Playa Conchal is the unassuming Playa Brasilito. This town and beach of the same name doesn’t have the glitz and glamour of its neighbors, but that’s all part of the appeal. Instead, at Playa Brasilito, you’ll find a modest fishing village centered around a soccer field with a few local restaurants and souvenir shops. Although some hotels and international restaurants have sprung up, Playa Brasilito has a very local feel. In this post, we’ll tell you more about Playa Brasilito, including where to stay and eat, and what to do.

 

Orientation

Playa Brasilito is located in Guanacaste Province on the northwestern Pacific coast. Of Costa Rica’s two international airports, Liberia (LIR) is the closest at about 1 hour away. The nearest town is Playa Flamingo, a few kilometers to the north. Flamingo is known for its pretty white-sand beach and many hotels and condos. Just a short walk south of Playa Brasilito is Playa Conchal. Conchal isn’t a town per se, but has been built up with luxury accommodations because of its famed beach. Guanacaste’s biggest beach town, Tamarindo, is also only about a 30-minute drive away.

While many of the surrounding beach communities in northern Guanacaste are developed in this way, Playa Brasilito still maintains a local feel. Many Ticos (Costa Ricans) live in town, and you will see them bringing in the daily catch, grabbing a beer after work, or taking in a gorgeous sunset. In addition to being a good alternative for those seeking an authentic experience, Playa Brasilito is much more affordable. And because it is close to all the amenities, you can still easily experience those other areas.

 

 

Tip: Many of the area’s best beaches and restaurants are a drive from Playa Brasilito. Therefore, we recommend a rental car. The area’s roads are mostly flat and well paved, but some are not. If you plan to explore, go with an SUV with higher clearance to help you navigate the rough dirt roads. Check out our Rental Car Discount page to save some money.

Activities

The beautiful coastline is by far the main attraction in Playa Brasilito, but there are a variety of other things to do. Below we’ll cover some of the must-see area beaches and a couple of tours you can do locally, as well as some popular activities that are farther away.

Beaches
Playa Brasilito

The main beach, Playa Brasilito, is a two kilometer (1.2 mile) stretch of gray sand. It isn’t Guanacaste’s prettiest beach, but if you drive on the dirt road to the northern end, it becomes more scenic. This area has a picturesque outcropping of rocks and a few small islands in the distance. Playa Brasilito is also an awesome place to watch the sunset (see photo, above).

Playa Conchal

Just a 10-minute walk south along the coast is Playa Conchal. This beach got its name from the millions of tiny crushed seashells that make up the sand. It is one of Costa Rica’s most beautiful beaches, with clear turquoise water and a backing of short vegetation. The water is usually calm and good for swimming, making it popular among families. Many visitors to Playa Conchal stay at the all-inclusive Westin resort nearby, but locals and tourists visit for the day too. Read our post Playa Conchal: The Allure of Shell Beach for more information.

 

Playa Conchal – Shell Beach

 

Lesser-Known Beaches

Two lesser-known beaches in the area are Bahia de los Pirates and Playa Mina. These are located more remotely and are much harder to get to. You’ll want to have good directions before heading out (see ours, below).

Bahia de los Pirates

Bahia de los Pirates (Pirates Bay) is a secluded beach with almost pink sand. It is named after the small cave dug into the side of an island, just offshore. Now empty, the cave is said to have once hidden the treasure of pirates. You can walk out to the island and explore the cave at low tide. Bahia de los Pirates never gets too busy and is mostly visited by locals. If you walk south along the beach towards the rocks, it gets even more secluded. We saw howler monkeys the last time we visited. Be sure to bring everything you need for the day as there are no stores nearby.

A parking attendant is usually there to watch your car for ₡1,000 (about $2). As always in Costa Rica, though, don’t leave anything valuable inside.

 

Bahia de los Pirates

 

Directions to Bahia de los Pirates: Bahia de los Pirates is near the town of Matapalo on the way to Playa Grande. Coming from Route 933, turn right at the soccer field in Matapalo, then take your next left. The road will curve to the right and you will continue into an open area. Keep right and continue on the main dirt road for about 4.5 km. Where the road forks again at the Condor Hotel, take a left. Follow the road all the way to the beach. Here is a map with more details.

Playa Mina

Not far from Bahia de los Pirates is Playa Mina. This is another hidden beach that not too many people know about. Playa Mina has light tan sand and is located in a wide cove so the water is relatively calm. You can snorkel along the rocks at each end, and sometimes tour operators bring people here to stand-up paddleboard. Locals often camp along the eastern end.

 

Playa Mina

 

Directions to Playa Mina: Follow the directions for Bahia de los Pirates, above, but once you get on the road that passes the Condor Hotel, take your first right. This goes directly to Playa Mina. The road is very bumpy (4×4 recommended). Here is a map with directions.

Horseback Riding and ATV Tours

Another way to enjoy the beautiful coastline near Brasilito is on horseback or ATV. Tour operators will take you wherever you want to go, but popular routes are right on the beach and up into the forest to viewpoints. These tours are a great way to see some of the more remote areas and small neighborhoods that you might not find on your own.

Activities Farther from Brasilito

Out of the bigger tourist towns like Tamarindo and Playas del Coco, you can organize a catamaran tour, zip lining, diving, sportfishing, surfing, kayaking, and many more activities.

Hiking is also available, but keep in mind, that most of the parks and reserves are at least 1.5 hours away. Some of the popular national parks in Guanacaste include: Rincon de la Vieja (features volcanic vents, bubbling mud pots, waterfalls, etc.) and Palo Verde National Park (riverboat tour to see birds and wildlife).

Many people also take adventure combo tours in the mountains near Rincon de la Vieja. This is another tour that is a bit of a drive away, but includes things you won’t find around the beach like hot springs, river tubing, a waterslide, and hanging bridges.

Restaurants

Here are some of the best restaurants that we have tried in Playa Brasilito.

Cafe del Manglar

This Italian-Costa Rican restaurant was one of our favorites on our recent visit to Playa Brasilito. It has good food, but the location is what makes it. Cafe del Manglar sits on a quiet dirt road right across the street from the beach. The atmosphere is very casual, making it a good spot to just kick back and take in the view. The menu is wide ranging. You’ll find typical Costa Rican specialties like casados and ceviche to Italian classics like pizza and risotto. Everything is reasonably priced.

 

 

Papaya

Papaya Restaurant in the Conchal Hotel is where to go for more sophisticated, refined food. The menu features a mix of local meats like beef and chicken to seafood and infusion dishes. The ambiance at dinner is romantic, with white lights illuminating the upper dining area. Prices are a bit high for Costa Rica with entrees $16-25, but the food is worth it. We loved our filet minon and the tuna steak was fresh and flavorful. Closed Wednesdays.

Septimo Cielo

Step into this restaurant a short drive from the main square and you’ll meet the friendly French owner, Florence. She’ll gladly walk you through the all-French menu, and tell you more about her traditional dishes, which include pate and a rich Chicken Blaquette. Be sure to save room for dessert. Prices are very reasonable, at around $10-12 an entree. Closed Mondays.

 

Traditional French dish of potatoes, seafood, cream, almonds, and egg

 

La Casita del Pescado

Translating to Little House of Fish, La Casita del Pescado features the fresh local catch. Popular choices include whole-fried snapper, fish casados, ceviche, and shrimp with garlic. Although you won’t find fancy linens at this simple, no-frills restaurant, the view doesn’t get much better. La Casita del Pescado is located right on the Playa Brasilito. It even has a few tables set up on the sand.

The Spot

Next to La Casita del Pescado is the Spot. This new restaurant is open for three meals a day and features local ingredients prepared in a creative way. Many dishes are made with locally caught seafood like mahi-mahi and naturally raised meats. The menu is varied, but offers international cuisine with a French influence. At sunset, they have happy hour drink and bocas’ specials. Closed Mondays.

 

Shrimp curry dish at the Spot

 

Soda Brasilito

Right on the square in town is Soda Brasilito. This simple restaurant is popular among locals and visitors alike. It serves up all the Costa Rican classics, and the food is good and cheap. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Beach Chocolate Factory

Although not a restaurant, we would be remiss if we didn’t tell you about this local chocolatier. Located in the plaza near the soccer field in Playa Potrero, Beach Chocolate Factory is making small batch chocolate from bean to bar. At their tiny storefront, you’ll find an array of bars. Our favorites were the single-source dark and milk infused with chili powder and nutmeg. They don’t do tours, but the owner will gladly come to your place for a fun and informative chocolate-making workshop.

Hotels

Brasilito is still growing for tourism but it does have a few good options for hotels. Here are our picks.

Quinta Esencia B&B

We loved our recent stay at Quinta Esencia B&B. This charming, yet funky, B&B is just outside town so a good option for those traveling without a car. The four rooms are simple, yet extremely functional, clean, and nicely decorated. The owners are friendly and have done a wonderful job trying to make their guests feel comfortable. We enjoyed the traditional French breakfast and appreciated the option of having coffee or tea any time of day. All the rooms at Quinta Esencia are identical with one king bed and one twin bed, A/C, and TV. $75/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Quinta Esencia B&B

 

Conchal Hotel

Another solid option in Playa Brasilito is Conchal Hotel. This small hotel is right on the main road before you get to town. Rooms are divided between ground level and second floor (some with balconies), and surround a small pool. The property is nicely landscaped with tropical palms and flowering plants. Rooms vary in size and set-up, with options for both couples and families/groups. Conchal Hotel has the yummy Papaya restaurant on-site (see above). $65-150. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Conchal Hotel

 

Hotel Brasilito

Right on the beach is the best budget hotel in town. Hotel Brasilito has 17 basic rooms. They all have a private bathroom and most have A/C. Many people love Hotel Brasilito because it’s right in the center of town and immerses you in the local culture. Due to its location, you might hear noise from a bar, roosters calling, and dogs barking, but you can also catch the calming waves of the ocean right across the street. $40-80. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Simple room at Hotel Brasilito

 

Brasilito might sit among some of the tourist giants like Tamarindo and Flamingo, but it has the perfect mixture of local culture and tourist amenities. From weathered fishing boats beached up on the sand to thrilling adventure tours in the distant hills, this little beach town has all the makings for a memorable, authentic vacation.     

Have a question about visiting Brasilito? Ask us below. (Email subscribers, click here to post your comment online.)
Looking for more information to plan your visit to Costa Rica? Here are some more posts:

7 Traditional Foods in Costa Rica – To really get to know Costa Rican culture, you have to try the food. Here’s a list of some of the best typical dishes.
Simple Spanish for Visiting Costa Rica – Want to give the local language a try? Here’s a simple list of some essential words and phrases to get your Spanish kick-started.
Llanos de Cortez Waterfall – If you want to see a waterfall, this is one of the most spectacular in Guanacaste. Check out our guide to plan your visit.

Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you book a hotel using one of the links, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Read our Privacy Policy for more information.

 

The post Playa Brasilito: An Authentic Beach Town in Guanacaste appeared first on Two Weeks in Costa Rica.

Curi-Cancha Reserve: Avoiding the Crowds in Monteverde

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Even though Monteverde is a remote destination, hundreds of thousands of tourists still visit each year. In fact, during the height of the dry season, its parks and reserves can become quite crowded, often with busloads of people filling the trails. These crowds can certainly take away from the cloud forest experience. But don’t worry, there are quieter options available. One is the Curi-Cancha Reserve. This private reserve limits the number of people to just 50 at one time. In this post, we’ll cover the Curi-Cancha Reserve and share our experience hiking and birdwatching there.

 

About the Reserve

The Curi-Cancha Reserve is a relatively small preservation of 205 acres (83 hectares). It has about 3.25 miles (5.2 km) of trails that cut through a portion of the property. The reserve sits at some of the highest elevations in Monteverde, between 4,750 and 5,300 feet (1,450 and 1,615 meters). About half of the land is primary forest and the other half is secondary forest. There are also some cleared areas with flowering and fruiting plants. All combined, this diversity of habitats makes Curi Cancha an excellent place for birding.

As we mentioned above, one of the best things about Curi Cancha is that it limits the number of visitors to 50 at once. This not only makes your experience on the trails more enjoyable, but also helps to not impact the ecosystem. Less people also means that it is easier to spot wildlife. Even with the limits though, sometimes groups do visit the reserve. On our hike, we briefly passed a party of about 15.  

Trails

The Curi-Cancha Reserve has a network of nine short trails. The longest is only about 1 mile (1.5 km), but since the trails lead into one another, you can combine several and hike for about a half day. There are also many cut-through paths that allow you to quickly go from one area to the next without having to hike the whole trail. This makes it ideal for families with young kids or hikers who may get tired part way through.

Click here to see a trail map.

Overall, the conditions throughout Curi Cancha are easy to moderate and the trails are very well maintained. On a few of the farther-reaching trails, there are some short sections that are a bit more steep and slippery, but nothing too treacherous. The climate on the trails also differs. Sometimes you will be hiking through thicker forest where it is darker, damper, and feels cooler. At other times, you will pass through open areas or gardens where the sun is shining, making it a bit hot. For this reason, we recommend wearing layers, especially a waterproof one like a light rain jacket. See our Planning Your Visit section, below, for more tips on what to bring. 

 

Curi Cancha has open areas like this as well as thick forest

Guided Tour vs. Self-Guided Tour

Guided tours are available through Curi Cancha. We recommend getting a guide to see the most, since it can be hard to spot wildlife in the dense cover. Birds, especially, tend to be high up in the canopy of mature trees and out of sight. Guides are a good resource because they know where to look and also have powerful scopes so that you can see an animal that is far away. In addition, a good guide is extremely knowledgeable about the flora and fauna and will teach you something new no matter your knowledge-base. See our Planning Your Visit section, below, for more information on guided tours.

 

 

If you have already taken a guided tour in Monteverde, it is easy to do the reserve self-guided as well. This is what we decided to do since we have been hiking in Monteverde several times. When you arrive at Curi Cancha, the person at reception will give you a map and help you choose the best route for your particular group. We had our son with us, who was five months old at the time, so they helped us choose a combination of trails that would take two hours max. You can also mention to them if you are hoping to see anything in particular, like the Resplendent Quetzal, a highly sought-after bird with beautiful tail feathers.

What You’ll See

From a wildlife-viewing, or specifically bird-watching, point of view, the fact that Curi Cancha has a diversity of habitats is key. That’s because many species prefer transition zones and forest edges. This allows them to stay hidden in the thicker forest at times and to go gather food from the open areas when it is safe.

To further enhance these habits, the staff at Curi Cancha has strategically planted many flowering and fruiting plants in the open areas. Right at the cross section of several trails, for example, is a resting garden with hummingbird feeders and flowering hedges. Just below that is a long tunnel of thicket that you can walk through. In the short time that we spent in these two areas, we identified about 15 different bird species. Some of the more interesting kinds we saw included the White-eared Ground Sparrow, Slate-throated Redstart, and Chestnut-capped Brush-finch. There were also lots of hummingbirds visiting the feeders, including some Costa Rica endemics like the Coppery-headed Emerald and Magenta-throated Woodstar. If you are a birder, you’ll be happy to know that about 250 species of birds have been identified in the reserve.  

 

The Slate-throated Redstart

 

In the more heavily forested sections of Curi Cancha, we didn’t see nearly as many birds, but we did see a few cool ones. Those included the Long-tailed Manakin, Emerald Toucanet, Three-waddled Bell Bird, and a Black Guan. We saw more wildlife in these sections though, including a few agouti, some variegated squirrels, and a troop of white-faced monkeys.  

 

The Black Guan

 

The flora along the trails is also magnificent, especially in those virgin areas of primary forest. Looking up through the tall canopy and seeing how much life is growing on each tree is pretty outstanding. It’s really what the cloud forest is all about.

 

Planning Your Visit

Because Curi Cancha limits the number of people that can enter at one time, we recommend contacting them to make a reservation. This applies to both guided and self-guided tours. At certain times of year like the rainy season, this may not be necessary, but it is worth checking if you only have a few days in Monteverde.

Guided Tours

Curi Cancha has a few different guided tours, including a general group tour, birdwatching tour, and privately guided tour (each is 3-5 hrs. depending on the tour and is offered three times per day). They also have a night walk, which is very popular. Prices start at $29. Contact Curi Cancha directly through their website for more information.

Self-guided Tours

$14 Adults, $10 Children 6 and over.  

General Admission Hours

7:30 a.m. – 3:00 p.m.

What to Wear/Bring

Dress in layers. We recommend lightweight long pants and a long-sleeved shirt with a lighter shirt underneath. Also bring a raincoat as it rains frequently in the cloud forest. For footwear, hiking boots or sturdy sneakers with good grips are best.

If you have a camera that you don’t want to get wet, either pack a plastic bag to wrap around it or use a rain cover. Backpack covers are also a good idea to have on hand. And if you’re interested in birding, you can rent binoculars through Curi Cancha for $10 a day. If you would rather have your own, lightweight ones are good for travel, but for the best performance, you’ll need something heavier. We really like our Steiners because they perform well and are rainproof, which is important for Costa Rica.

Directions

From Santa Elena, take the main road leading to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. Immediately before the Monteverde Cheese Factory, take a left and follow the dirt road for a few minutes to Curi Cancha.  

 

We have hiked most of the reserves in Monteverde and each one has been a different experience. The Curi-Cancha Reserve was definitely superior to others as far as birdwatching goes. And, with less crowds, the overall experience was really enjoyable.

Have a question about Curi Cancha or want to share your experience visiting? Leave us a comment below (Email subscribers, click here to post your comment online).  
Looking for More Information about Monteverde? Check out these posts:

Driving to Monteverde: Best Routes and Road Conditions – Driving to Monteverde from La Fortuna/Arenal or the Pacific Coast? This post will let you know what to expect on the two most common routes. Includes some short videos too!
Monteverde Hotel Guide – For such a small and remote place, Monteverde sure does have a ton of lodging options. If you’re overwhelmed by the choices, check out our picks in this simple hotel guide.
Monteverde: A Forest in the Clouds – Learn more about Monteverde’s moss-covered forests, quaint town, and stunning reserves in this post.

 

The post Curi-Cancha Reserve: Avoiding the Crowds in Monteverde appeared first on Two Weeks in Costa Rica.

Costa Rica Destinations Summary Guide

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

 

On this website, we give tons of detailed information on Costa Rica’s different destinations and attractions. Reading everything takes a lot of time, however. That’s the reason for this destinations summary guide. Below, we provide a broad overview of the major destinations in Costa Rica. We describe what each town is like, who it might appeal to, what it offers for activities, and where it is located. When you find a place that you’re interested in, click on our full article to read all the details to plan your visit. Keep in mind that we will be constantly updating this post with new destinations as we come out with more articles.

Drake Bay

Drake Bay is a remote village set in the thick jungle of the Osa Peninsula. It appeals to nature and wildlife lovers due to its abundant animals and birds. Although the town is very small, it has a wide array of accommodations. Both luxury travelers looking for a relaxing escape and backpackers alike will enjoy Drake Bay. Drake Bay might not be the best destination for those who want all the conveniences or who are afraid of bugs and other creepy crawlies that live in the jungle. It is also more difficult to get to so plan to spend at least a few nights there.

 

 

Popular activities in Drake Bay include:

Hiking in the nearby Corcovado National Park
Wildlife watching
Beaches
Bird watching
Snorkeling and diving at Cano Island
Dolphin and whale watching
Rainforest night walks

Read our post Drake Bay: Costa Rica Unplugged for more information.

Dominical/Uvita

Dominical and Uvita are two neighboring towns on Costa Rica’s southern Pacific coast. They are surrounded by jungle and are less developed, although they offer a good selection of hotels, restaurants, and things to do. Dominical is best known for surfing. Uvita is a popular town among expats and is also home to Marino Ballena National Park (the National Whale Marine Park). The stretch of coastline that makes up the Costa Ballena hosts several beautiful, and all but deserted, beaches.

 

 

Popular activities in the Dominical-Uvita area include:

Beaches
Surfing
Waterfalls, including the stunning Nauyaca Waterfalls
Hiking
Wildlife watching
Whale and dolphin watching
Alturas Wildlife Sanctuary
Horseback riding
ATV tours
Kayaking/SUP
Yoga

Read our post The Costa Ballena: Uvita, Dominical, and Ojochal for more information.

Jaco

Jaco is one of Costa Rica’s most developed beach towns. Along the main strip fronting the beach are a myriad of shops, restaurants, bars, and tour operators. Some of the best restaurants in Costa Rica can be found in Jaco. The town has a big party scene if you’re looking for nightlife, but is also family-friendly. Jaco is conveniently located on the central Pacific coast, about 1.5 hours from San Jose international airport. Playa Jaco itself isn’t the most beautiful beach in Costa Rica, but there are other nice ones nearby.

 

 

Jaco has tons of activities. Some of the most popular include:

Crocodile river tour
Sport fishing
Hiking and birdwatching at Carara National Park
Surfing
Beaches
Horseback riding
Adventure activities like zip lining, canyoning (waterfall rappelling), and ATV tours
Waterfalls

Read our post Jaco: Costa Rica’s Booming Beach Town for more info.

La Fortuna

La Fortuna is located in the northern highlands (inland but not quite in the mountains). It is one of Costa Rica’s most popular destinations. The main draws are Arenal Volcano and the natural hot springs. La Fortuna has a huge range of hotels, from backpacker hostels to five-star hot springs resorts. This makes it a great destination for solo travelers, couples, and also families. It is best explored with a rental car because the area is spread out. Those looking for a more off-the-beaten-path experience might find La Fortuna a bit touristy.

 

 

The most popular activities in La Fortuna are:

Arenal Volcano
Hot springs
Hiking
Waterfalls
Proyecto Asis Wildlife Center
Zip lining
Hanging bridges
Whitewater rafting
Lake Arenal
Horseback riding
Night tours

Read our post La Fortuna: What to Expect from Costa Rica’s Most Popular Destination for more details.

Mal Pais/Santa Teresa

Mal Pais and neighboring Santa Teresa are surfer towns on the very southern Nicoya Peninsula. This is a remote destination and accessing it is an adventure along rough and dusty dirt roads. Once you arrive, though, you’ll find modern conveniences, including luxury accommodations and international cuisine. There are also plenty of places to stay and things to do for the budget-minded traveler. Although surfing is the main draw, people also visit for the beautiful sunsets, tranquil feel, and hidden-gem quality.

 

 

Things to do in Mal Pais and Santa Teresa include:

Surfing
Beaches
Yoga
Stand-up paddleboard (SUP)
Zip lining
Hiking at Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve
Horseback riding
ATV tours

Read our post Road Trip to Mal Pais for more info.

Manuel Antonio

Manuel Antonio is a popular beach town nestled in the rainforest on Costa Rica’s central Pacific coast. Its main attractions are the national park and gorgeous beaches. In the park and throughout town, it is easy to spot monkeys, iguanas, and other wildlife. Manuel Antonio is a wonderful destination for first-time travelers to Costa Rica. There are family-friendly resorts, romantic villas for couples, and even gay-friendly hotels. Manuel Antonio is more touristy and can get busy during the high season (December to April).

 

 

Manuel Antonio has hundreds of different tours. Some of the most popular include:

Beaches
Wildlife watching
Manuel Antonio National Park
Zip lining
Whitewater rafting
Sport fishing
Catamaran and sailing tours
Canyoning (waterfall rappelling)
SUP
Kayak mangrove tours
Parasailing
Horseback riding

Read our post Manuel Antonio Trip Planning for more information.

Monteverde

Monteverde is one of Costa Rica’s most sought-after destinations. Its intriguing cloud forest and abundant wildlife draw thousands of visitors each year. Though this former Quaker town feels rural and pastoral, it has been built up for tourism over the years. Hotels are available for all budgets and are mostly lodge-style. Monteverde is more difficult to access so spending at least a couple of nights there is best. It is an especially good destination for families because of all the kid-friendly things to do.

 

 

Monteverde offers a number of activities including:

Zip lining
Hanging bridges
Hiking
Night walks
Coffee tours
Birdwatching
Aerial trams
Wildlife exhibits (butterfly or hummingbird gardens, serpentariums, etc.)
Horseback riding

Read our post Monteverde: A Forest in the Clouds for more info. Also check out our Monteverde Hotel Guide for tips on where to stay.

Montezuma

Located more remotely on the southern Nicoya Peninsula, Montezuma is a laid back beach town that draws mostly backpackers and young families. A lot of people come to Montezuma to just relax on the beach, but there’s also a lot to do. The biggest attraction is the Montezuma Waterfalls. Though the town is quite small, it is a good destination for foodies. Locally made craft beer and eclectic international cuisine fill restaurant menus. Hotels are mostly budget and mid-range, but there is a resort nearby and vacation rentals in the hills.

 

 

Things to do in Montezuma include:

Beaches
Waterfalls
Hiking at Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve
Wildlife watching
Zip lining
Surfing
Yoga
Snorkeling at Tortuga Island

Read our post Montezuma: A Bohemian Beach Town for more info.

Nosara

Nosara has recently garnered the attention of influential media outlets and is an on-the-rise destination. In this community, you’ll find a mix of surfers, luxury travelers, families, expats, and yoga lovers. The town’s dirt roads connect different neighborhoods, each with their own beaches and distinct feel. Because Nosara is spread out, it is best explored with a rental car. Nosara is one of Costa Rica’s more expensive destinations.

 

 

Some of the most popular activities in Nosara include:

Surfing
Beaches
Yoga
Horseback riding
Kayaking/SUP
Zip lining
ATV and off-road vehicle tours
Turtle watching (seasonal)
Wildlife watching and wildlife rehabilitation tours

Read our post Nosara Trip Planning Essentials for more information.

Playa Conchal

Many consider Playa Conchal, in northern Guanacaste Province, to be Costa Rica’s most beautiful beach. The water is a stunning shade of turquoise and the sand is made of tiny crushed shells. Although Playa Conchal is a beach without much else around, it feels more like a destination because of a popular all-inclusive resort.

 

 

Things to do at Playa Conchal include:

Beach – swimming, SUP, kayaking, snorkeling, jet skiing
Catamaran tours
Golf
Spa
Sport fishing
Horseback riding
ATV tours

Read our post Playa Conchal: The Allure of Shell Beach for more information.

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is on the rainforest-rich southern Caribbean coast. This area of the country has several features that make it unique. Culturally, many of the locals are of Afro-Caribbean or indigenous descent. The weather is also different, with the best times to visit (September and October) coinciding with the rainy season on the Pacific coast. One of Puerto Viejo’s best attributes is its many stunning beaches.

 

 

Puerto Viejo has many options for things to do. Some of the highlights are:

Beaches
Wildlife rehabilitation tours, including Jaguar Rescue Center
Chocolate tours
Hiking
Snorkeling/diving
Surfing
Indigenous culture tours
Horseback riding
Night hikes

Read our post Puerto Viejo: Caribbean Cool in Costa Rica for more information.

Puerto Jimenez

Puerto Jimenez is one of two major towns on the Osa Peninsula (the other is Drake Bay, see above). It sits on a picturesque bay with some of the calmest water in the country. Although the town has a local feel, it has a decent selection of hotels and restaurants that cater to tourists. One of the biggest reasons travelers visit Puerto Jimenez is to explore Corcovado National Park. Tours and activities out of Puerto Jimenez tend to be more expensive as many take place by boat.

 

 

Popular activities out of Puerto Jimenez include:

Day trips or overnight stays in Corcovado National Park
Kayaking
Dolphin and whale watching
Snorkeling
Sport fishing
Beaches
Osa Wildlife Sanctuary
Horseback riding
Chocolate tours

To learn more, read our post Puerto Jimenez: An Outpost to the Osa.

Samara

Many of the beach towns in Guanacaste Province are quite developed, but not Samara. It has more of a small-town feel. Along the few criss-crossing streets that make up the downtown, you’ll find one- or two-story hotels, restaurants, and shops. There are no high-rise condos or fancy resorts. Instead, the vibe is casual and laid back. Samara draws visitors of all ages and is a favorite among families because of its relatively calm water for swimming.

 

 

The main activities in Samara are:

Beaches
Hiking
Surfing
Kayaking and SUP
Zip lining
Diving
Horseback riding
ATV tours
Waterfalls

Read our post Samara: Guanacaste’s Most Overlooked Destination for more tips and info.

San Gerardo de Dota

San Gerardo de Dota is a tiny village in the high-altitude mountains south of San Jose. With cloud forest nearby, San Gerardo offers a less busy alternative to Monteverde. Package tourists often visit San Gerardo in search of an elusive bird called the Resplendent Quetzal, but it is also a good destination for those wanting to go off-the-beaten path. Most lodges are more rustic and cabin-style, which fits in nicely with the quiet surrounds. San Gerardo is best for those seeking a peaceful escape.

 

 

San Gerardo de Dota offers a few things to do including:

Bird watching
Hiking
Waterfalls
Zip lining
Horseback riding
Fishing for trout

For more information, read our post San Gerardo de Dota: A Hideaway in the Cloud Forest.

San Isidro de El General

San Isidro de El General is located in the mountains of the Southern Zone. This small, but vibrant, city doesn’t draw very many tourists, but is quickly growing in popularity among expats. Here, you’ll find busy city streets filled with small local restaurants, clothing stores, and all the basics like hospitals, pharmacies, and grocery stores. San Isidro is a wonderful place to explore the culture and a good stopover for a night or two.

 

 

Some activities around San Isidro de El General that may appeal to visitors include:

Hiking
Waterfalls
Farmers market
Bird watching

Read our post San Isidro de El General for more information.

San Jose

Many people visiting Costa Rica get in and out of its capital city almost right away. Although San Jose isn’t really considered a tourist destination, this sprawling metropolis actually has a lot to offer. It is a great place to observe the local culture as it is where the majority of locals live. And with a vibrant art scene, fantastic dining options, and several cultural sites, you can easily spend a couple of nights.

 

 

Popular activities in San Jose include:

National Theater
Museums – National Museum (pictured above), Gold Museum, Jade Museum, Children’s Museum
Central Market
La Sabana Park
National Artisans Market
Art galleries

Read our post How to Spend 1 or 2 Days in San Jose for more information.

Tamarindo

Tamarindo is the most developed beach town in Guanacaste Province. Here, you will find trendy boutique hotels, beachfront B&Bs, hostels, and a few condos and bigger developments. Tamarindo is a popular destination for surfing, but draws all types of travelers. Food lovers will enjoy the many awesome restaurants. Tamarindo has a vibrant nightlife and offers all the conveniences. Those interested in exploring the local culture may prefer another destination.

 

 

Keep in mind that many of the recommended activities for Tamarindo are located several hours away. Popular choices in the immediate area include:

Beaches
Surfing
Zip lining
Sport fishing
Catamaran and sailing tours
Estuary boat tours
Diving and SNUBA (snorkeling with an airline hose)
SUP
ATV tours
Turtle watching (seasonal)
Spa
Shopping

Read our post Tamarindo: Where Paradise Meets Convenience for more information.

Tortuguero

Tortuguero is one of the best places in Costa Rica to see wildlife. Many people plan their trip around turtle season, where you can see green and other sea turtles come to shore to lay their eggs. Boat tours along the canals are also popular and can reveal wildlife like monkeys, crocodiles, and many types of water birds. Tortuguero is a remote destination on the northern Caribbean coast. It can be reached by boat or small plane. Higher end travelers can stay at one of the all-inclusive lodges. Shoestring travelers will prefer one of the small, family-owned hotels closer to town.

 

 

Activities in Tortuguero include:

Turtle watching (seasonal)
Wildlife watching
Bird watching
Boat and kayak canal tours
Night tours
Hiking

Read our post Tortuguero Off the Resort for more details.

 

As you can see, Costa Rica has destinations that will suit just about any type of traveler. The best thing about this relatively small country is that in a single vacation, you can explore several locations and get a completely unique experience in each one.

If you need help putting together an itinerary for your trip, check out our Itineraries page for some samples. We also have a book, Top 10 Costa Rica Itineraries, which can help you make sense of how these destinations can be paired. And, if you need more help, we would be happy to create a customized trip based on your interests. Read our Itinerary Help page for more information.

Looking for more info to jump-start your planning? You might like these posts:

Best Time to Visit Costa Rica – Information on what months are ideal for a visit. Includes times to avoid like busy holidays and the rainiest times of year.
Cost of Traveling in Costa Rica – Wondering how much things cost in Costa Rica? This post will give you an idea of what to expect for things like hotels, rental cars, tours, and restaurants.
Driving in Costa Rica: What to Know Before You Go – Worried about driving in a foreign country? Learn about road conditions, safety, and more in this post.      

 

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Living in Costa Rica: Three Year Update

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

It seems like it was only a few months ago that we were writing our two-year update on living in Costa Rica. But this past weekend, we just breezed by the three-year mark. How did that happen so quickly? It’s probably because we have been extremely busy and have had a lot of life changes. In this post, we’ll focus on the big things that happened in year three, and as usual, take a look to the future.

 

And then there were 3!

Our biggest change this year, of course, has been the transition to parenthood. If you’ve been following our adventure, you know that we welcomed our son, Samuel, into our lives last December. He was born at a small private hospital nearby and has been the love of our lives ever since. Having a baby back in the States would have been a big change too, but going through the process in Costa Rica only complicated things. Sure, it was a little scary, but it also solidified our life here in a way. A lot of times living in a foreign country, you get scared and hold back out of fear of the unknown. Having a baby forced us to get out there and do things that were totally new to us and totally unique to Costa Rica. It was like taking the next step.

The greatest challenge about having a baby here was figuring out the medical system. As relatively healthy 30-somethings, we had been avoiding this up until Jenn’s pregnancy. While we don’t know everything, we did learn a lot about how certain things work in the private and public systems. We had bloodwork done at a local lab, filled prescriptions at pharmacies, and saw doctors and nurses at private and public hospitals, clinics, and offices. Jenn delivered a baby (!) alongside nurses speaking Spanish, and we navigated the public healthcare system after the birth. We sat next to other new parents, all Ticos, waiting to have their babies weighed or vaccinated, or mothers who were there for breastfeeding counseling. Finally, we felt like we could relate to the people around us and they could relate to us.

 

Sam getting a checkup

 

These interactions not only helped us to better assimilate into the culture, but were also great for our Spanish. Even though we haven’t been studying as diligently as we did when we first moved here, we have been picking up a lot by going to places we’ve never had to before. In the process, we’ve also learned about a dozen ways to say that a baby is cute, including precioso, muneco, que lindo, cocito, and many more. 

With our little Costa Rican by our side, we’ve needed to learn about how certain local government processes work. Going to the Civil Registry for his birth certificate or the public hospital for a carnet (healthcare card) was intimidating, but felt like great accomplishments afterwards.

Even with some of the challenges of having a baby abroad, we couldn’t be happier that we started our family in Costa Rica. We feel so fortunate to be able to spend time with our son every day and to not have to put him in daycare like we would back in the States. On the other hand, we do wish that we were closer to family and friends so that they could see him more often (and maybe babysit once in a while).

Work and Life Balance

With Sam’s arrival, we also have had some big changes in our day-to-day work lives. Before, we were both working during the day, writing articles, making custom vacation itineraries for clients, or doing website maintenance or social media. We worked a nine-to-five schedule and usually took weekends off. But now, with a baby in the house, one of us is always on “daycare,” while the other works. We switch off every couple of days so that the workload is divided, but overall, we are pretty much down a whole person. This has been challenging, especially since our website has been growing rapidly. Don’t get us wrong, we are beyond excited about the growth of our business and consider this a very good problem to have.

 

Getting some work done with the help of Sam

 

With a little experimenting, we have started to figure out how to make it work. Like many new parents, we have become much more efficient when we sit down at the computer and probably get twice as much done as before. We also fit in some things after he’s gone to bed, during a nap, or on the weekends. Because it is very affordable in Costa Rica, we’ve been getting help around the house and want to have someone take care of Sam for a day or two a week too.

Sense of Community

If you read our two-year update, you might remember that we were feeling a bit isolated last year. That’s because, prior to our current long-term caretaking position, we had been house sitting all around the country. That lifestyle was great for our website as we were able to travel extensively, but also meant that we didn’t spend much time in one place. This made it hard to “belong” anywhere and make lasting friendships. We’re happy to say that this is starting to change.

For over a year and a half now, we have lived in the same house near Dominical. And now that we have been in the area for a while, we know a lot more people. Some are only casual acquaintances, but seeing the same friendly faces at the grocery store, farmers market, or bank has helped make us feel like we are part of the community.

Having Sam also helped solidify this. Throughout Jenn’s pregnancy, everyone (Ticos and Gringos alike) took an interest in us and made us feel welcome. Everywhere we went, people would ask about the baby, and in turn, tell us about their own life and family. Now that Sam is here, those same people say hello, ask how he’s doing, and how old he is now. We’ve even run into neighbors who knew everything about him (and us), even though we had never met. Over time, we’ve also developed some meaningful friendships in the area. Some are with local Ticos and others are with expats like us.

 

Enjoying a birthday pool party with our Tico friends

Applying for Residency

After having Sam, applying for residency in Costa Rica was a priority. Waiting for him was partly strategic, since as parents of a Costa Rican-born citizen, we are able to skip temporary residency (like rentista, pensionado, or investor) and go straight for permanent. This is a more favorable status as you don’t have to commit any funds and also can work as an employee if you want.

Committing to residency was a big deal for us. It meant we knew that we wanted to stay in Costa Rica longer term. The residency process isn’t cheap and is a bit daunting with all the paperwork. And if you have done any research about it, you know that the approval process can take a while, even years.

Since we still love it here, the only big factor for if we would stay and commit to residency was financial. Our website has been steadily growing since we arrived in 2013, but only recently have we felt confident that it could be what sustains us long term. In the past year, we have seen significant progress and are so happy that our hard work is finally paying off. We are reaching more and more people every day with our articles and are excited about the success of our vacation planning services. Going forward, we plan to continue on, writing articles for our site. We are also going to expand the services side of our business to help even more people with their Costa Rica travel plans.

Looking Forward

Looking to the future, we hope that our residency applications get approved soon. We applied ourselves, without the help of a local attorney, back in May. The process is supposed to take 90 days, but as we mentioned, can take years or more. Hopefully, we are one of the lucky ones who have a speedy approval so that we can share our experience navigating the public healthcare system and more.

In the next couple of years as Sam gets older, we’ll also be figuring out some of the challenges that come with expat life and children. Childcare, schools, keeping family back home in his life, and teaching him about both of his cultural backgrounds are all things that we will be thinking about and sharing with you.

For now, we’ll be enjoying our time with Sam, showing him different areas of Costa Rica and writing about it for you all to enjoy. Year three was a big one for us and we are excited about the future. We owe a lot of that to our readers, so thank you as always for following along!

Have a question or comment about our three years in Costa Rica? Let us know below (Email subscribers, click here to post your comment online.)
Want to follow our story from the beginning? Check out these posts:

We’re Moving to Costa Rica!
First Impressions on Living in Costa Rica
Living in Costa Rica: One Month Update
Buying a Car in Costa Rica
Fun Facts from Our First Six Months in Costa Rica
Our First Year in Costa Rica
House Sitting: How to Live in Costa Rica for $2,000 a Year
Having a Baby in Costa Rica
Applying for Residency in Costa Rica Without a Lawyer

 

 

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Driving to Monteverde: Best Routes and Road Conditions

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Monteverde is one of Costa Rica’s most unique destinations. This humble mountain town, best known for its cloud forests, is far removed from any other tourist spot. And because it sits on its own, how to get there is often a topic of interest or even concern. Indeed, driving to Monteverde is an adventure, but it can be fun if you are prepared. In this post, we’ll give you directions for the two most common routes to Monteverde, tell you what road conditions to expect, and give you rental car tips.

 

Driving to Monteverde from San Jose or Pacific Coast Destinations

If you are driving to Monteverde from San Jose or the Pacific Coast (e.g., Jaco, Manuel Antonio, Tamarindo, Samara, or elsewhere in Guanacaste), the best and most commonly traveled road is Route 606. Route 606 starts at the Inter-Americana Highway (Highway 1) and is marked by a gas station called Rancho Grande. Once you get on Route 606, the drive to Santa Elena and Monteverde is about 36 km (22 miles) and takes about 1 hour.

Tip: Don’t get confused and take Route 605 or Route 145. These roads both have signs on the Inter-Americana Highway for Monteverde, but are in worse condition and will take longer.

Route 606 Road Conditions

From Route 1 (at the Rancho Grande gas station), Route 606 is paved for about 16 km (10 miles). This stretch is a narrow two-lane road that winds through the town of Guacimal before becoming very rural. The road can be extremely curvy at times and you will gain elevation as you go. As you get higher, there are some fantastic views of the surrounding mountains and rolling farm fields.

 

Route 606

 

The last 20 km (12.4 miles) of Route 606 is dirt. While it is usually pretty smooth and rut-free, certain short sections can be a bit treacherous. There are some sharp curves, bumps, narrow spots that fit only one car, and steep cliffs or rocky embankments. During the rainy months (May through November), small landslides or washouts can block or partially block the road. Road crews usually open things back up within hours, though. It is best to avoid this road at night because there are no guardrails and visibility can be poor due to clouds or rain. During the day, the drive is beautiful and there is only a small section that is really rough.  

Here is a short video we took driving to Monteverde on Route 606 to give you an idea.

 

Driving to Monteverde from La Fortuna or Lake Arenal

Many people visiting Monteverde also go to La Fortuna to see Arenal Volcano and enjoy the hot springs. If you are driving to Monteverde from La Fortuna or Lake Arenal, the best roads are Route 142 to Tilaran, then Route 145 to 606. This drive takes about 3.5-4 hours (from La Fortuna) and is along a mix of paved and dirt roads.

Route 142 Road Conditions  

From La Fortuna, Route 142 is a paved road that goes all the way around Lake Arenal (about 1.5 hours). It’s a curvy but very scenic road with green hills and surrounding jungle. Along the way, you’ll pass some cool wind turbines and a few tasty restaurants. On the other side of the lake, Route 142 goes farther west to the small city of Tilaran. In Tilaran, you’ll get off Route 142 (road will go slightly left) and go through town to connect with Route 145.

Tip: There are two opportunities to get gas on this drive, one in Nuevo Arenal and the other in Tilaran. Between Tilaran and Monteverde, there are no other gas stations.

Route 145 and 606 Road Conditions

After you’ve gone around the lake and through Tilaran, you’ll connect with Route 145. This road is paved leaving Tilaran, but after a short drive, turns to dirt. Once you get out of Tilaran, start looking for the ‘Y’ in the road. At this intersection, it will seem like you should stay on the paved road, but you’ll actually go right to stay on Route 145, which is dirt. The drive along Route 145, which then turns into 606, will take 1.5-2 hours. It passes farm pastures, coffee fields, and even some waterfalls.

 

Route 145 – note the huge rut off to the left

 

Overall, the road is hilly with some larger rocks and pot holes to maneuver around. This makes the ride very bumpy and slow. There are a few sections that are steep and narrow, including a one-lane bridge with some intimidating drop-offs on each side. During the rainy season, expect more mud and ruts. When we drove it in July one year, the road was very muddy at one point. There was a giant rut that looked like a car had recently gotten stuck, and some marks from a tractor pulling it out.

Only drive this road in the daylight since visibility can be limited by rain or fog and there are no guardrails. There are only a few towns along the way too, in case you break down or get stuck. Also be sure to look carefully for the (sometimes small) signs to Monteverde, as the road branches off in several spots. We recommend cross-referencing your GPS as you go.

Here is a short video we took driving to Monteverde on Routes 145 and 606 from Tilaran.   

 

Rental Car Tips

No matter which route you take to Monteverde, road conditions change constantly throughout the year. One day, the road might be fine, and another, it could be a muddy mess after a big storm. Crews grade the roads periodically as well, which can make a big difference.

Since it can be hard to know what to expect for your visit, we recommend a vehicle with 4-wheel drive year-round. Although during the drier months (December to April), it is often possible to make the trip without one, you won’t know exactly what you’ll be in for until you get there. If you do opt to skip 4×4 during the dry season, you will still want an SUV with higher clearance so that the ride is not as rough. In the rainier months (May to November), a 4×4 is highly recommended because road conditions can change quickly with heavy rain.

If you haven’t rented a car yet, check out our Rental Car Discount to save some money and get a discount on a GPS.

 

As you can see from our videos and pictures, driving to Monteverde can be a bumpy and adventurous experience. Hopefully this post has eased your worries and prepared you for the beautiful ride.

Have you driven to Monteverde lately? We’d love to hear your report. When did you go and how were the roads? Leave a comment below. (Email subscribers click here to post your comment online.)
Looking for more info to plan your trip? Check out these posts:

Driving in Costa Rica – Not all roads are as rugged as the ones going to Monteverde but there is still a lot to know about driving in Costa Rica. Read our Driving post for more info.  
La Fortuna: What to Expect – If you are heading to La Fortuna before or after your time in Monteverde, check out our guide first. Includes activities, restaurants, and hotels.
Monteverde Hotel Guide – Don’t get bogged down by the wide range of lodging options in Monteverde and Santa Elena. Check out our picks for some of the best in town.  

 

 

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Samara: Guanacaste’s Most Overlooked Beach Town

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Many of the beach towns in Costa Rica’s Guanacaste Province have become extremely popular over the years due to their gorgeous sands and turquoise waters. Development has hit the northern Pacific coast, and those interested in luxury condos and world-class cuisine don’t have to look far. But for others seeking a more authentic visit to Costa Rica, there is Samara. While Samara has its share of amenities, it still has a local vibe and small beach-town feel. In this post, we’ll give our tips for getting the most out of your visit to Samara, including recommendations for hotels, activities, and restaurants.

 

About Samara

Samara is located in Guanacaste Province on the northern Pacific coast. It is about two hours from Liberia International Airport (LIR). The drive from the airport is along all paved roads, making it is an easy destination to reach.

One of the main draws of Samara is its centrally located downtown. The downtown abuts the beach and is full of restaurants, trendy boutique shops, tour operators, and some small hotels. Another draw is its surrounding forest and wildlife. Unlike areas to the north, thick tropical dry forest borders Samara. Even on hotel grounds, you can find animals like monkeys, iguanas, and many kinds of birds.

Samara’s biggest attraction is its beautiful beach. Playa Samara attracts all types of travelers with its rows of palm trees and light tan sand. You will find 20-somethings grabbing a beer at one of the beachside bars, couples strolling at sunset, and children at play in the calmer ocean waters.

Tip: If you’re looking for a more developed beach town in Guanacaste, consider Tamarindo, Playa Flamingo, Playas del Coco, or Playa Hermosa.

 

View of Playa Samara from above

Activities

While many people visiting Samara do little more than hang out at the beach, there are plenty of things to do. Here are some activities that will show you hidden waterfalls, beaches, and nature-filled forest.    

Werner-Sauter Biological Reserve

The Werner-Sauter Biological Reserve is a 140 hectare (346 acre) private reserve just outside Samara. Here, you can discover the tropical dry forest and learn from an expert guide why it is such an important, though often overlooked, ecosystem. In between discovering the reserve’s abundant wildlife like monkeys, porcupines, and owls, you will climb to a lookout with an amazing view of the beach and forest. We loved our recent trek through the reserve. We couldn’t believe how much wildlife we saw and how much we learned, even after hiking throughout Costa Rica.

The hike through the Werner-Sauter Reserve is moderately difficult and you need a guide to visit. For more details, read our post Samara Trails: Exploring the Tropical Dry Forest.

 

Owl at Werner-Sauter Biological Reserve

 

Belen Waterfall

Only 20 minutes from downtown Samara is the Belen Waterfall. This small cascade and series of swimming holes is a popular spot among locals, yet few tourists know about it. The entrance is located in the middle of the countryside and is unmarked. There are no facilities and you will find only a rustic trail that leads to the river. Tours are available, but it is easy enough to go on your own if you have a rental car. Just be sure to have good directions as we drove right past it our first time. Read our post Belen Waterfall: A Hidden Swimming Hole Near Samara for all the information you need.

Beaches

The main beach, Playa Samara, is the area’s most popular and for good reason. The cove has relatively calm water due to a coral reef just offshore. This makes it a decent place to swim and also to enjoy water sports. Stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), kayaking, and surfing are all possible. Lessons and equipment rentals are available from tour operators right on the beach.

Playa Carrillo is more of a local’s beach, just to the south. This beach is also very pretty, with light sand, rows of palms, and calm waves for swimming. It doesn’t have the amenities of Playa Samara like restaurants and tour operators so be sure to bring everything you need for the day.

 

The beautiful Playa Carrillo

 

Playa Barrigona is farther from town and accessible if you have a rental car. This beach is the site of Mel Gibson’s seaside estate and considered by many to be the most beautiful in the area. Although it is a trek to get to along rough, dirt roads, we were impressed once we arrived. The sand is bright white, the water is intensely blue, and it feels far removed from civilization.

 

Playa Barrigona – almost deserted

 

If you venture to Playa Barrigona, bring everything you need as there isn’t anything for miles. Don’t leave valuables in your car as there have been problems with theft. A 4×4 vehicle is recommended, especially for the rainy season. Playa Barrigona is 1 km off the main road that goes to Nosara. The entrance was unmarked at the time of our visit. During the dry season, you can take the shortcut through the riverbed from Samara and get there in 15-20 minutes. (Click here for a map). In the rainy season, it will take a bit longer via the inland route. (Click here for a map for the route during rainy season).

Diving and Snorkeling

If you’re interested in diving, the Samara area has some good spots to check out. Neighboring beaches host shipwrecks where you can see creatures like white-tip reef sharks, snapper, and maybe even hammerhead sharks and bull sharks. Conditions are better during the rainy season (May to November) when the water is cooler. While diving is typically better in Samara, you can also snorkel. Many people combine kayaking with snorkeling on a visit to the white-sand Isla Chora. Two-tank dives (5 hrs.) are around $110. Kayak-snorkel tours to Isla Chora are around $50.

Horseback Riding

Another fun way to experience Samara’s beautiful scenery is on a horseback tour. Most operators include a ride through the jungle, where you’re likely to see wildlife, as well as some time to trot on the beach. This is another way to get to the stunning Playa Barragona described above. Prices for tours are around $50 per person.

 

Horseback tour to Playa Barrigona

Restaurants

Samara has an impressive selection of restaurants for such a small town. You can find almost every type of food, from vegan burgers to spicy Tex-Mex and authentic Italian pizza to traditional Costa Rican cuisine. Here are some of the best places we tried.

El Lagarto

During our recent road trip through Guanacaste, we had one of our favorite meals at El Lagarto. The concept at El Lagarto is simple. They cook everything—meat, fish, and veggies—on a one-of-a-kind wood-fired grill. Everything gets that smoky char flavor, and the grill masters really know how to cook meat to perfection. Costa Rica is not known for having the best steak, but ours was amazing. Prices are a little high, but they use naturally raised meats and organic produce. Opens daily at 3 p.m. 

 

Filet mignon fresh off the grill at El Lagarto Restaurant

 

Samara Pacific Lodge

Another excellent choice for dinner is Samara Pacific Lodge. This French restaurant has a small menu, which rotates daily, but you can’t go wrong with the choices. Typical offerings are fresh fish, pork, beef, and shrimp. They also have an option for kids. Our tuna steak was cooked perfectly, and we also loved our pork with apple and pineapple sauce. Wine pairings are available for all entrees. This restaurant has only six tables plus a small bar so be sure to make reservations. 

Lo Que Hay

While in Samara, you have to take advantage of the beachside dining. And Lo Que Hay is one of the best spots in town. The menu features casual food from a grilled avocado app to delicious tacos, burgers, and pizza. They often have live music and also specials like a plate of the day, Taco Tuesday, and deals on wine and cocktails. Check out their Facebook page for current events.

 

Dining with toes in the sand at Lo Que Hay

 

Flying Taco

Flying Taco is a little hidden over by the town soccer field, but don’t let that stop you. This is a fun spot where you can grab some tacos or a burrito, while kicking back under the huge mango trees. Everything is served with yummy, homemade salsas. Flying Taco has live music a few times a week and also does poker nights. Open for lunch and dinner.

Boutiquecafe Bohemia

For the freshest food around, there’s Boutiquecafé Bohemia. This chic, yet casual, breakfast and lunch spot offers healthy smoothies and lighter options for food. Much of what goes into the toastinis, salads, crepes, and bagels is housemade, like the almond butter, jam, and pesto. Our brie and apple crepe and veggie sandwich were just what we needed after a lot of travel. Bohemia Café also doubles as a yoga and pilates studio. 

 

Bohemia Cafe

 

Samara Organics

Samara Organics is a small organic food market right in the center of town. In addition to produce, they also have coffee, fresh juices, breads, locally made snacks, and natural products like insect repellent and essential oils. 

If you’re interested in checking out the farmers market, it happens twice a week in the Natural Center (courtyard outside Samara Organics). On Tuesday mornings (approximately 8:00 – 11:00 a.m.), vendors come with fresh fruits and veggies. And on Friday afternoons (2:00 – 5:00 p.m.), it is more homemade goodies like jams, breads, and cheeses.

Microbar

Microbar is definitely the coolest place in town. The tiny, dimly lit space and eclectic décor will make you feel like you’ve stepped off the beach and into a trendy speakeasy in the city. Microbar has the largest selection of local craft beers on tap that we’ve ever seen in Costa Rica. When we visited, there were 20 or so different brews. We tried a bunch of different sample sizes. Some of our favorites were the mango pale ale from Dry Season Brew Lab, the IPA from Fercas Brew House, and the Loco 59 Stout from La Bruja Cerveza Artesanal. Aletails (cocktails made with beer) are also available. Opens at 5 p.m. Cash only. 

 

A cold craft brew at Microbar

Hotels

Samara has a range of hotels for all budgets. You won’t find large chain hotels here, but rather quaint villas, lodges, and hostels. Many are located right in town, which is great if you’re traveling without a rental car. If you prefer something more secluded and quiet, there are also places outside the downtown. Here are our picks for lodging in Samara.

Montelaguna Boutique Hotel

On our recent trip to Samara, we stayed at Montelaguna Boutique Hotel. This newer hotel is outside town, just a few minutes’ walk to the beautiful Playa Carrillo. Rooms are modern and range from affordable double and triple rooms to spacious suites that are great for families and groups. The pool is also gorgeous. $90-200, includes breakfast. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Pool area at Hotel Montelaguna

 

Villas Kalimba

Villas Kalimba is right in town, but feels very private. The six individual units are surrounded by lush flowering gardens and a tranquil pool. The property is also right across from the beach. Each villa is equipped with a kitchen for when you want to eat in, and the owner/chef is sometimes available to cook meals as well. The staff at Villas Kalimba is very friendly and helpful. $150-200 double occupancy. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Casa del Mar

Casa del Mar is a B&B-style hotel in a great location across the street from the beach. The new French owner is very friendly and has been working hard on making improvements to the property. Some of the rooms have A/C and a private bath. Others are more budget-friendly and have a shared bath and fans. A few have a lovely ocean view. Rates include breakfast and use of chairs on the beach. $50-100, double occupancy. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Courtyard at Hotel Casa del Mar

 

Hotel Belvedere

Hotel Belvedere is a favorite among visitors. Although the property is located just a short walk to town, it is more secluded and quiet. The small hotel offers spacious, comfortable rooms with balconies overlooking the jungle. Wildlife like monkeys, birds, and iguanas are often seen around the grounds. The hotel is divided into two separate buildings, each with its own pool area. $65-85, double occupancy. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Samara Pacific Lodge

Samara Pacific Lodge is a comfortable budget option in a secluded location surrounded by pasture and forest. The hotel has four types of rooms, including some larger family rooms able to accommodate six people. The large salt-water pool and comfy lounge chairs are very inviting, and of course, staying here means easy access to the lodge’s delicious French restaurant (mentioned above). It is best to have a rental car as it a few miles from the downtown. $50-75, double occupancy. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Hostel Samara

This new hostel is a great option for backpackers looking for an inexpensive place to stay close to town. Hostel Samara has three dorms and also five private rooms with A/C if you’re looking for more comfort. A spacious common area has TV, some space for lounging and checking email, and a well-equipped kitchen. Shared dorm, $15; Private room, $40. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Private room at Hostel Samara

 

If you’re looking for a laid-back beach escape, you’ll love Samara. Although this modest town doesn’t span more than a few blocks, it offers everything you need for a fun and exciting vacation. Our most recent trip here only solidified that Playa Samara is one of Guanacaste’s most overlooked beach towns.

Have a question about visiting Samara? Ask it below. (Email subscribers, click here to post your comment online.)
Looking for more info to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

Llanos de Cortez Waterfall – Tips for visiting one of the most gorgeous waterfalls in Guanacaste.
Simple Spanish for Visiting Costa Rica – A practical guide to the most common Spanish words and phrases used in Costa Rica.
Itinerary Help – Want to visit Samara but aren’t sure how to fit it in your plans? Check out our itinerary services. We can help build your dream vacation to Costa Rica.

 

The post Samara: Guanacaste’s Most Overlooked Beach Town appeared first on Two Weeks in Costa Rica.

Samara: Guanacaste’s Most Overlooked Destination

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Many of the beach towns in Costa Rica’s Guanacaste Province have become extremely popular over the years due to their gorgeous sands and turquoise waters. Development has hit the northern Pacific coast, and those interested in luxury condos and world-class cuisine don’t have to look far. But for others seeking a more authentic visit to Costa Rica, there is Samara. While Samara has its share of amenities, it still has a local vibe and small beach-town feel. In this post, we’ll give our tips for getting the most out of your visit to Samara, including recommendations for hotels, activities, and restaurants.

 

About Samara

Samara is located in Guanacaste Province on the northern Pacific coast. It is about two hours from Liberia International Airport (LIR). The drive from the airport is along all paved roads, making it is an easy destination to reach.

One of the main draws of Samara is its centrally located downtown. The downtown abuts the beach and is full of restaurants, trendy boutique shops, tour operators, and some small hotels. Another draw is its surrounding forest and wildlife. Unlike areas to the north, thick tropical dry forest borders Samara. Even on hotel grounds, you can find animals like monkeys, iguanas, and many kinds of birds.

Samara’s biggest attraction is its beautiful beach. Playa Samara attracts all types of travelers with its rows of palm trees and light tan sand. You will find 20-somethings grabbing a beer at one of the beachside bars, couples strolling at sunset, and children at play in the calmer ocean waters.

Tip: If you’re looking for a more developed beach town in Guanacaste, consider Tamarindo, Playa Flamingo, Playas del Coco, or Playa Hermosa.

 

View of Playa Samara from above

Activities

While many people visiting Samara do little more than hang out at the beach, there are plenty of things to do. Here are some activities that will show you hidden waterfalls, beaches, and nature-filled forest.    

Werner-Sauter Biological Reserve

The Werner-Sauter Biological Reserve is a 140 hectare (346 acre) private reserve just outside Samara. Here, you can discover the tropical dry forest and learn from an expert guide why it is such an important, though often overlooked, ecosystem. In between discovering the reserve’s abundant wildlife like monkeys, porcupines, and owls, you will climb to a lookout with an amazing view of the beach and forest. We loved our recent trek through the reserve. We couldn’t believe how much wildlife we saw and how much we learned, even after hiking throughout Costa Rica.

The hike through the Werner-Sauter Reserve is moderately difficult and you need a guide to visit. For more details, read our post Samara Trails: Exploring the Tropical Dry Forest.

 

Owl at Werner-Sauter Biological Reserve

 

Belen Waterfall

Only 20 minutes from downtown Samara is the Belen Waterfall. This small cascade and series of swimming holes is a popular spot among locals, yet few tourists know about it. The entrance is located in the middle of the countryside and is unmarked. There are no facilities and you will find only a rustic trail that leads to the river. Tours are available, but it is easy enough to go on your own if you have a rental car. Just be sure to have good directions as we drove right past it our first time. Read our post Belen Waterfall: A Hidden Swimming Hole Near Samara for all the information you need.

Beaches

The main beach, Playa Samara, is the area’s most popular and for good reason. The cove has relatively calm water due to a coral reef just offshore. This makes it a decent place to swim and also to enjoy water sports. Stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), kayaking, and surfing are all possible. Lessons and equipment rentals are available from tour operators right on the beach.

Playa Carrillo is more of a local’s beach, just to the south. This beach is also very pretty, with light sand, rows of palms, and calm waves for swimming. It doesn’t have the amenities of Playa Samara like restaurants and tour operators so be sure to bring everything you need for the day.

 

The beautiful Playa Carrillo

 

Playa Barrigona is farther from town and accessible if you have a rental car. This beach is the site of Mel Gibson’s seaside estate and considered by many to be the most beautiful in the area. Although it is a trek to get to along rough, dirt roads, we were impressed once we arrived. The sand is bright white, the water is intensely blue, and it feels far removed from civilization.

 

Playa Barrigona – almost deserted

 

If you venture to Playa Barrigona, bring everything you need as there isn’t anything for miles. Don’t leave valuables in your car as there have been problems with theft. A 4×4 vehicle is recommended, especially for the rainy season. Playa Barrigona is 1 km off the main road that goes to Nosara. The entrance was unmarked at the time of our visit. During the dry season, you can take the shortcut through the riverbed from Samara and get there in 15-20 minutes. (Click here for a map). In the rainy season, it will take a bit longer via the inland route. (Click here for a map for the route during rainy season).

Diving and Snorkeling

If you’re interested in diving, the Samara area has some good spots to check out. Neighboring beaches host shipwrecks where you can see creatures like white-tip reef sharks, snapper, and maybe even hammerhead sharks and bull sharks. Conditions are better during the rainy season (May to November) when the water is cooler. While diving is typically better in Samara, you can also snorkel. Many people combine kayaking with snorkeling on a visit to the white-sand Isla Chora. Two-tank dives (5 hrs.) are around $110. Kayak-snorkel tours to Isla Chora are around $50.

Horseback Riding

Another fun way to experience Samara’s beautiful scenery is on a horseback tour. Most operators include a ride through the jungle, where you’re likely to see wildlife, as well as some time to trot on the beach. This is another way to get to the stunning Playa Barragona described above. Prices for tours are around $50 per person.

 

Horseback tour to Playa Barrigona

Restaurants

Samara has an impressive selection of restaurants for such a small town. You can find almost every type of food, from vegan burgers to spicy Tex-Mex and authentic Italian pizza to traditional Costa Rican cuisine. Here are some of the best places we tried.

El Lagarto

During our recent road trip through Guanacaste, we had one of our favorite meals at El Lagarto. The concept at El Lagarto is simple. They cook everything—meat, fish, and veggies—on a one-of-a-kind wood-fired grill. Everything gets that smoky char flavor, and the grill masters really know how to cook meat to perfection. Costa Rica is not known for having the best steak, but ours was amazing. Prices are a little high, but they use naturally raised meats and organic produce. Opens daily at 3 p.m. 

 

Filet mignon fresh off the grill at El Lagarto Restaurant

 

Samara Pacific Lodge

Another excellent choice for dinner is Samara Pacific Lodge. This French restaurant has a small menu, which rotates daily, but you can’t go wrong with the choices. Typical offerings are fresh fish, pork, beef, and shrimp. They also have an option for kids. Our tuna steak was cooked perfectly, and we also loved our pork with apple and pineapple sauce. Wine pairings are available for all entrees. This restaurant has only six tables plus a small bar so be sure to make reservations. 

Lo Que Hay

While in Samara, you have to take advantage of the beachside dining. And Lo Que Hay is one of the best spots in town. The menu features casual food from a grilled avocado app to delicious tacos, burgers, and pizza. They often have live music and also specials like a plate of the day, Taco Tuesday, and deals on wine and cocktails. Check out their Facebook page for current events.

 

Dining with toes in the sand at Lo Que Hay

 

Flying Taco

Flying Taco is a little hidden over by the town soccer field, but don’t let that stop you. This is a fun spot where you can grab some tacos or a burrito, while kicking back under the huge mango trees. Everything is served with yummy, homemade salsas. Flying Taco has live music a few times a week and also does poker nights. Open for lunch and dinner.

Boutiquecafe Bohemia

For the freshest food around, there’s Boutiquecafé Bohemia. This chic, yet casual, breakfast and lunch spot offers healthy smoothies and lighter options for food. Much of what goes into the toastinis, salads, crepes, and bagels is housemade, like the almond butter, jam, and pesto. Our brie and apple crepe and veggie sandwich were just what we needed after a lot of travel. Bohemia Café also doubles as a yoga and pilates studio. 

 

Bohemia Cafe

 

Samara Organics

Samara Organics is a small organic food market right in the center of town. In addition to produce, they also have coffee, fresh juices, breads, locally made snacks, and natural products like insect repellent and essential oils. 

If you’re interested in checking out the farmers market, it happens twice a week in the Natural Center (courtyard outside Samara Organics). On Tuesday mornings (approximately 8:00 – 11:00 a.m.), vendors come with fresh fruits and veggies. And on Friday afternoons (2:00 – 5:00 p.m.), it is more homemade goodies like jams, breads, and cheeses.

Microbar

Microbar is definitely the coolest place in town. The tiny, dimly lit space and eclectic décor will make you feel like you’ve stepped off the beach and into a trendy speakeasy in the city. Microbar has the largest selection of local craft beers on tap that we’ve ever seen in Costa Rica. When we visited, there were 20 or so different brews. We tried a bunch of different sample sizes. Some of our favorites were the mango pale ale from Dry Season Brew Lab, the IPA from Fercas Brew House, and the Loco 59 Stout from La Bruja Cerveza Artesanal. Aletails (cocktails made with beer) are also available. Opens at 5 p.m. Cash only. 

 

A cold craft brew at Microbar

Hotels

Samara has a range of hotels for all budgets. You won’t find large chain hotels here, but rather quaint villas, lodges, and hostels. Many are located right in town, which is great if you’re traveling without a rental car. If you prefer something more secluded and quiet, there are also places outside the downtown. Here are our picks for lodging in Samara.

Montelaguna Boutique Hotel

On our recent trip to Samara, we stayed at Montelaguna Boutique Hotel. This newer hotel is outside town, just a few minutes’ walk to the beautiful Playa Carrillo. Rooms are modern and range from affordable double and triple rooms to spacious suites that are great for families and groups. The pool is also gorgeous. $90-200, includes breakfast. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Pool area at Hotel Montelaguna

 

Villas Kalimba

Villas Kalimba is right in town, but feels very private. The six individual units are surrounded by lush flowering gardens and a tranquil pool. The property is also right across from the beach. Each villa is equipped with a kitchen for when you want to eat in, and the owner/chef is sometimes available to cook meals as well. The staff at Villas Kalimba is very friendly and helpful. $150-200 double occupancy. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Casa del Mar

Casa del Mar is a B&B-style hotel in a great location across the street from the beach. The new French owner is very friendly and has been working hard on making improvements to the property. Some of the rooms have A/C and a private bath. Others are more budget-friendly and have a shared bath and fans. A few have a lovely ocean view. Rates include breakfast and use of chairs on the beach. $50-100, double occupancy. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Courtyard at Hotel Casa del Mar

 

Hotel Belvedere

Hotel Belvedere is a favorite among visitors. Although the property is located just a short walk to town, it is more secluded and quiet. The small hotel offers spacious, comfortable rooms with balconies overlooking the jungle. Wildlife like monkeys, birds, and iguanas are often seen around the grounds. The hotel is divided into two separate buildings, each with its own pool area. $65-85, double occupancy. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Samara Pacific Lodge

Samara Pacific Lodge is a comfortable budget option in a secluded location surrounded by pasture and forest. The hotel has four types of rooms, including some larger family rooms able to accommodate six people. The large salt-water pool and comfy lounge chairs are very inviting, and of course, staying here means easy access to the lodge’s delicious French restaurant (mentioned above). It is best to have a rental car as it a few miles from the downtown. $50-75, double occupancy. Check Rates and Availability Here.

Hostel Samara

This new hostel is a great option for backpackers looking for an inexpensive place to stay close to town. Hostel Samara has three dorms and also five private rooms with A/C if you’re looking for more comfort. A spacious common area has TV, some space for lounging and checking email, and a well-equipped kitchen. Shared dorm, $15; Private room, $40. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Private room at Hostel Samara

 

If you’re looking for a laid-back beach escape, you’ll love Samara. Although this modest town doesn’t span more than a few blocks, it offers everything you need for a fun and exciting vacation. Our most recent trip here only solidified that Playa Samara is one of Guanacaste’s most overlooked beach towns.

Have a question about visiting Samara? Ask it below. (Email subscribers, click here to post your comment online.)
Looking for more info to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

Llanos de Cortez Waterfall – Tips for visiting one of the most gorgeous waterfalls in Guanacaste.
Simple Spanish for Visiting Costa Rica – A practical guide to the most common Spanish words and phrases used in Costa Rica.
Itinerary Help – Want to visit Samara but aren’t sure how to fit it in your plans? Check out our itinerary services. We can help build your dream vacation to Costa Rica.

 

The post Samara: Guanacaste’s Most Overlooked Destination appeared first on Two Weeks in Costa Rica.

Belen Waterfall: A Hidden Swimming Hole Near Samara

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Part of Costa Rica’s allure are the many off-the-beaten-path activities that can be found with a little bit of exploring. One such activity is the Belen Waterfall near Samara. This small cascade and series of swimming holes is a popular local’s hangout and an easy day trip from the beach. In this post, we’ll tell you more about the Belen Waterfall and how to access this little-known spot on your own.

 

Location and Access

The Belen Waterfall is located about 20 minutes from the town of Samara in Guanacaste Province. It is a bit hidden, but not far off the main road that connects Samara to the inland city of Nicoya. To get there, you will take a short drive through a beautiful country setting. The road is dirt but fairly well maintained. A 4×4 vehicle is recommended but not necessarily required depending on recent rainfall and the condition of your tires.

Once you arrive at the parking area, it is a fairly easy, five-minute walk down to the river. The trail is a bit steep but nicely maintained. From the river, the pools and waterfall are a short climb through the forest and over some rocks. 

For detailed driving directions to the Belen Waterfall, see the end of this post.

 

The trail to the river and waterfall

The Waterfall

Once you reach the bottom of the trail, you’ll see why the Belen Waterfall is a popular local hangout. The smooth rocks of the riverbed create several different levels of swimming pools. Some are big and good for jumping in, while others are smaller and good for lounging. There are also plenty of flat surfaces to spread out a towel and relax. The waterfall itself is about a 10-15 foot (3-4 meter) drop into a deeper pool. It is safe for jumping if you are careful and adventurous enough.

 

Some of the different natural pools created by the rocks

 

When we visited, it was the end of the dry season (mid-April) and it hadn’t rained much for several months. While the water level was low and the falls not flowing too much, there was still plenty of water to take a refreshing swim or jump in from the top.

 

Looking down from the top of the waterfall

 

While there, it is also worth exploring the surrounding patch of secluded forest. You can walk along the rocks in either direction to see wildlife like lizards, frogs, and birds. While most of the trees had lost their leaves on our visit because of the dry season, we can imagine that it would be lush and green with a little rain.

Tip: Bring water shoes with good grips if you have them, as some of the rocks are slippery.

 

Another look at the waterfall and some of the pools

Directions to the Belen Waterfall

 

From the bus stop in Samara (across from Luv Burger), drive on Route 150 for approximately 18 km (11 miles) towards the city of Nicoya. Immediately before you get to Bar La Cascada (a restaurant on the left with a big Pilsen sign and blue fence), you will take a left-hand turn onto a dirt road. The road will go sharply downhill.

 

Turn left immediately before this bar

 

Continue on the dirt road for 2 km (1.2 miles), bearing right at the fork, until you see a small dirt parking lot on the right. This parking area is lower than the road so a little hard to see, especially if there aren’t any other cars there. Look for a metal gate to a property on the right (around the 2 km mark) and it is immediately before that. Parking was free when we were there and there was no attendant to watch the car. This seemed like a very safe area, but don’t leave any valuables behind, just in case.

 

Parking area

 

If you’re looking for a fun day trip from Samara, check out the Belen Waterfall. This cascade may not be as spectacular as some of Costa Rica’s more famous waterfalls, but it is still worth a visit. Not only will you get to see a bit of rural Costa Rica, but the natural pools and rock formations are gorgeous and make for a refreshing place to explore.

Have you been to the Belen Waterfall or have questions about visiting? Leave us a comment below! (Email subscribers click here to post your comment online). 

 

The post Belen Waterfall: A Hidden Swimming Hole Near Samara appeared first on Two Weeks in Costa Rica.

Applying for Residency in Costa Rica Without a Lawyer

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

After spending almost three years in Costa Rica, coming and going on a tourist visa, we have decided to apply for residency. This is a big step for us as it means we’ve committed to staying here permanently, at least for an extended period of time. While most people use a lawyer for the residency process, we had heard mixed reviews about the results. Inspired by others who had done it alone, we felt that this was something that we could probably handle ourselves too. In this post, we’ll cover our experience applying for residency in Costa Rica without a lawyer.

IMPORTANT: We applied for residency in May 2016. Keep in mind that the requirements are constantly changing and people’s experience with the process can differ. Use this article as a guide, but always refer to the Migracion website for the most current information. If you have applied for residency yourself and something was different for you, leave a comment below to help others who will be applying.

 

Types of Residency in Costa Rica

Before moving to Costa Rica, we did a lot of research about the different types of residency available. We won’t go into detail about all the options here, but there are three types that most people consider.

(1) Pensionado: Applies if you are getting a certain amount of pension or retirement money on a monthly basis.

(2) Rentista: Applies if you put a certain amount of money in a Costa Rican bank to rent and live long-term.

(3) Inversionista: Applies if you invest a certain amount of money in Costa Rica by purchasing a property, business, or making another type of large investment.

These types of residency, if granted, require that you be a temporary resident for three years before you can apply for permanent residency. Permanent residency comes with more benefits than temporary residency. For example, with permanent residency, you have all the rights of a citizen (except voting rights) and can work legally in Costa Rica as an employee. Temporary residents can own/run a business, but must hire employees to do any labor. Both temporary and permanent residents must pay into the Costa Rica health care system called the Caja.

There is also a way to obtain permanent residency without having temporary residency first. Residencia Permanente Por Vinculo requires that you have a first-degree blood relative (e.g., parent, child, or sibling) who is Costa Rican. Because our son was born here and was thus given immediate Costa Rican citizenship, this is the way we applied. Residencia Permanente Por Vinculo also applies if you marry a Costa Rican, but you are only granted temporary residency and must wait the three years to apply for permanent status.

Note: While our application process may be a little different than yours if you are applying other than through a relative, much of the paperwork and process is the same. Hopefully our experience will help you get started, but don’t rely on our information alone.

Overview of the Application Process

Applying for residency in Costa Rica is done through the Direccion General de Migracion y Extranjeria (the General Directorate of Immigration and Nationality), better known as Migracion. Information about the different types of residency and how to apply can be found on their website under the Residencias tab. This should be your main guide in figuring out what you need for your application. The instructions are quite detailed, and while they are all in Spanish, Google Translate or a friend who speaks Spanish can help you work through them. Sometimes, even with translations, the instructions are not clear. Asking others who had completed the process helped us, and we will try to clarify whenever possible. The application instructions we followed for Residencia Permanente Por Vinculo can be found here.

 

Migracion Headquarters in La Uruca, San Jose

Applying for Residency in Costa Rica: A 10-Step Guide

One thing that we wished we had when starting this process was a step-by-step guide, mostly because the timing of when to do things was not clear. We couldn’t find one, so we made our own:

SEVERAL MONTHS BEFORE APPLYING

 

Step 1: Check Your Passport Expiration Date

Make sure that your passport will not expire during the application process. Although Migracion is supposed to approve or deny residency applications within 90 days, sometimes it can take a year or more so you want to have enough time on your passport for delays. A different passport number halfway through the process could potentially cause problems. Matt renewed his through the US Embassy in Costa Rica, and it came in about two weeks.   

Step 2: Gather Documents from Your Home Country

Request the necessary personal documents from your home country. They are valid for only six months from the date of issuance according to Costa Rican requirements. The timing can be critical, as we note below with respect to the FBI background check.

You might need more documents than this depending on your specific circumstances, but in general you will need:

(1) A criminal background check from where you lived for at least three years prior. If you are from the US, to our knowledge it is now better to get an FBI background check, rather than one from the state where you lived. We have heard that sometimes they will accept state background checks. Other times, they will notify you later that you need to obtain the federal background check, causing your application to be delayed. We went to a local police station in Costa Rica (OIJ) and had them take our fingerprints on the form, then mailed the application to the FBI. See the FBI website for instructions. The background check will then need to be apostilled. In the US, that meant mailing it to the Secretary of State.

(2) Birth Certificate: You request this from the state/place of issuance and then get it apostilled. In the US, each state has a different process. For Jenn’s, we had to request it first then send it back to a different office for the official apostille. The state where Matt was born did both at the same time.

(3) Marriage/Divorce Certificate: Request from the state of issuance and then get apostilled. Note: This was not a requirement for our residency application, but we included our marriage certificate anyway, just to be safe.

IMPORTANT: This is one instance when the timing is critical. Our FBI background checks took almost 15 weeks because processing was so backed up. Because of this, we had to request a second set of state documents (marriage/birth certificates) in fear that they would expire. Make sure to check the FBI website for the processing time before applying for the rest of your documents, which generally take only a couple of weeks.

Step 3: Register with Your Consulate

Register with your home county’s consulate in Costa Rica. For us, this was the US Embassy in Costa Rica. We were easily able to register online for the STEP program and print the form. It does not need to be notarized or apostilled, just translated (see Step 5, below). 

 

SEVERAL WEEKS BEFORE APPLYING

 

Step 4: Notarize Your Passport

Have every page (even blank ones) of your passport copied and notarized by a Costa Rican notary public. In Costa Rica, lawyers are also notaries so we went to a local lawyer’s office. He put his seal on the copies and signed each page. He then glued them together like a booklet and added timbres.

Timbres are inexpensive stamps that you apply to official documents in Costa Rica. They are usually sold by street vendors outside the offices where you will be applying or picking up documents. The person selling them will know the amount you will need when you tell them the type of document you have.

Step 5: Translate Documents

Get all documents that are not already in Spanish translated by an official translator. Here is a link for the list of official translators. This includes the required documents from your home country (Step 2, above) as well as the consulate registration (Step 3, above). We used Tiger House Translations in San Jose. They made it very easy. We emailed them scanned copies of everything because we live far from San Jose. A few days later, our translated documents were ready for pick-up. They can also mail or send them by courier service.   

Step 6: Complete the Rest of Your Residency Packet

This will include:

(1) Application Form: The form from Migracion (Formulario de Filiacion), which asks for general information like your name, age, etc. Note that the application form has a place to put a fax number so that they can contact you if there is a problem or they need more information. We think that an email is now sufficient if you do not have a fax. Migracion’s current regulations state this. We also asked the official at Migracion when we submitted our application, and he said it was fine.

(2) Letter: A letter to the Director of Migracion, typed in Spanish, with information including: your full name, why you are applying, nationality, age, occupation, full address where you live, and means for notifications. We used this template, which was posted on a local Facebook group and made a few changes to personalize it. Don’t sign the letter. The letter must be signed in front of the Migracion official when you make your application.

(3) 2 Passport-Sized Photos (Costa Rica size, which are a little smaller than US ones). Purchase at any photo shop.

(4) Pay Application Fees: As instructed, we paid $50 each for the application fee and $200 to change our status from a tourist visa to a visa for permanent residency. These funds were deposited into the bank account provided in the Migracion instructions. Be sure to make separate deposits, in colones, based on the exchange rate the day you go to the bank. The receipts, which will have your name on them, are included in your application.

(5) Registry Documents: If applying for residency through a direct relationship with a Costa Rican, you will need the document proving this (e.g., birth certificate, marriage certificate) with timbres. See our post about Baby Paperwork in Costa Rica for information on how to obtain a Costa Rican birth certificate. The Registry document must not be more than two-months old.

(6) Additional Documents: Other applicants may have to provide additional or different documents. For example, proof of retirement funds if you are applying for Pensionado status, investment documents if you are applying for Inversionista, etc.

 

DAYS LEADING UP TO APPLYING

 

Step 7: Fingerprinting

Register your fingerprints with the Ministerio Seguridad Publica (Ministry of Public Security) in San Jose. The Ministry website says that an appointment is required, but we couldn’t get anyone to respond to our emails or pick up the phone. We ended up just showing up the day before submitting our completed application to Migracion, but have heard that other types of residency require that you apply first, get a document number, and then get fingerprinted after. If you have recent experience with this, let us know by commenting below.

The Registro Dactilar building is located on Av. 8 between Calle 31 and 33 (map). When you arrive, they will give you a form to fill out your basic information. It is in Spanish and English, but they will want you to write your responses in Spanish. The questions are fairly easy, but you will need to know your height in centimeters and weight in kilograms. You will also need a couple of passport-sized photos, your passport, and we needed a copy of our son’s birth certificate. After you fill out the form, you will have a short interview with a Ministry official who will put your information into the computer. Then your prints will be taken, and the officer will give you a document that you attach to your residency application.

 

The building where you need to register your fingerprints.

 

Step 8: Make Copies of Your Completed Application

Make photocopies of everything that you will be submitting. We have heard horror stories of Migracion losing applications.

Step 9: Get Timbres

Purchase timbres for the entire application. This can be done the day you apply. There is a vendor right outside the Migracion office (he has a stand that sells snacks), and he will sell you the proper number of stamps (around $3 or so). Paperclip them to the front of the application.

 

This vendor outside the offices of Migracion can sell you the necessary timbres to attach to your application.

 

APPLYING
Step 10: Apply

Submit your application at the Direccion General de Migracion y Extranjeria headquarters in La Uruca (map) or another approved location. The Migracion website lists the other locations in their frequently asked questions section, such as Liberia, Puntarenas, Paso Canoas, Golfito, Limon, and San Carlos. We have heard of people using some of the smaller offices with luck since they are generally a lot less busy. You can apply at a Costa Rica consulate in your home country, however, you will need to have your fingerprints taken physically in Costa Rica (Step 7, above).

Migracion is open from 8 a.m. to 12 p.m. The La Uruca Migracion Office is closed the last Friday of every month.

If you are traveling from outside San Jose and looking for a hotel the night before, we stayed at Hotel Plaza Real. It is a five-minute drive away, clean and comfortable, and very affordable.    

We arrived shortly after 8 a.m. at the main headquarters, which was busy, but not as busy as we expected. The guard at the door directed us to the special assistance line since we had our baby with us. Others should arrive earlier to get in line. We have heard that wait times can be extremely long, and Migracion stops taking new tickets at noon.

 

Inside Migracion

 

After about a 30-minute wait, it was our turn. We went up to the window and the Migracion official processed our applications. He sifted through our papers, checking the documents that we included, and put our information into the computer. The process took about 15 minutes for each of us. At the end, he gave us a printout with our file number (numero de expediente) and a checklist of the documents we submitted. The applications were kept separate and we have different expediente numbers even though we are one family.

 

Being processed at the counter

 

Once you have the file number, you can check your status online on the Migracion website. Within a day, our information was in the system and the status was showing that it was being processed. If Migracion needs additional information, they are supposed to contact you using the means you provided (e.g., fax, email) and you have 10 days to supply it.

Associated Costs (per person, estimated)

Application Fees – $250
Birth Certificate with Apostille – $25
Marriage Certificate with Apostille – $25
Criminal Background Check (FBI) with Apostille – $26
Translation of Documents into Spanish – $82
Passport Photos – $8 (we suggest you have extra, just in case)
Legal Fees (notary for passport pages) – $30
Mail Services (from Costa Rica to the US) – $50 (note: we visited the States once and had visitors bring documents, which helped limit this)
Photocopies – $10
Timbres – $3

Total – $509

Final Thoughts

Five hundred dollars per person isn’t too bad for applying for residency in Costa Rica, especially when you consider the benefits we’ll get. We won’t have to leave the country to renew our visas every three months anymore and will be able to work as an employee here if we want. It will also be a lot easier to open a bank account, get a Costa Rican driver’s license, etc.

Now the only thing we can do is wait to see what happens. Migracion is supposed to notify us if there is anything missing or further action is required. They are also supposed to make a determination within 90 days. As we said, though, we have heard that months, and even years, can pass without hearing anything at all. We’ll be sure to update this post with our status as soon as we can. Hopefully that will be soon!

Additional Information

US Embassy in Costa Rica: The US Embassy has general info on the requirements for getting residency.
Association of Residents of Costa Rica: ARCR is one of the leading companies for obtaining residency in Costa Rica. They have a lot of info on their website about the process and also an active forum where you can pose questions even if you don’t plan on applying through them.
Facebook Expat Groups: These groups are a great place to find information from other people going through the same process. We used them to research fingerprinting, criminal background checks, etc. There are several groups, but a couple of really active ones are Expatriates in Costa Rica and Gringo Expats in Costa Rica. Use the search function to find old threads or post a new question if you’re still stuck.

Have you recently applied for residency in Costa Rica by yourself? Leave us a comment with any tips below (Email subscribers click here to post your comment online.).

The information in this post is provided for informational purposes only and is not intended to be legal advice. While we have tried to ensure that the content is accurate and current, we make no guarantees. You should seek legal or other professional advice before acting or relying on any of the information.

Looking for more information about moving to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

FAQs About Moving to Costa Rica – Answers the most commonly asked questions about life in Costa Rica, including cost of living, internet availability, etc.
Where to Live in Costa Rica: Planning Your Research Trip – Helps you plan a visit to Costa Rica to figure out where you might want to live.
Costa Rica Moving Checklist – Step-by-step guide for what to do before moving to Costa Rica. Covers mail service, banking, and what medical and other services to get done before you move.

 

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Monteverde Hotel Guide

Two Weeks in Costa Rica |

Monteverde may be a remote destination in Costa Rica, but once you arrive, you’ll find a long list of things to do and places to stay. In this post, we’ll help you sort through the many hotels in Monteverde so that you can find your perfect place in the cloud forest. We’ve stayed in each of the hotels below or toured them with a focus on our reader’s needs (i.e., cleanliness, noise, view, comfy beds, good food, etc.). Each offers something a little different and we hope we’ve included one that is right for you.

 

General Info

There are a few things to know when considering hotels in Monteverde. First, most of the hotels are more rustic, lodge-style buildings, even the high-end ones. This fits in nicely with the comfortable, pastoral feel of the area. If you’re looking for lavish, modern accommodations, save it for your time at the beach. Second, most lodges do not have air conditioning because it really isn’t needed in Monteverde. Temperatures are usually very comfortable, averaging 19°C (66°F).

Finally, how the area is set up may help you decide on a hotel. Although most people refer to the entire area around the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve as Monteverde, there are actually two separate towns. One is Santa Elena, which has a small downtown, housing many local businesses. Santa Elena has mostly budget hotels and is a good option if you won’t have a rental car because there is a lot within walking distance. From Santa Elena, there is one main road that leads through the smaller town of Monteverde and ends at the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. Things in Monteverde, including hotels, are more spread out and there is no real town center. We give options in both towns below.

Hotels in Monteverde and Santa Elena, Costa Rica
Hotel Belmar

This was one of our favorite hotels in Monteverde. Hotel Belmar is a boutique hotel with Austrian architectural design. The rooms have modern finishes and beautiful wood throughout. The hotel values sustainability, which can be seen in everything from the efficiency measures to the farm-to-table restaurant. For those into craft beer, there is a small brewery on-site. Hotel Belmar is nicely located just outside downtown Santa Elena off the main road to Monteverde. $150-350, includes breakfast. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Hotel Belmar

 

Monteverde Lodge and Gardens

Monteverde Lodge and Gardens is one of the nicer hotels in Monteverde. Featuring well-appointed, large rooms with good cloud forest views, this small lodge would appeal to most travelers. Although Monteverde Lodge and Gardens is not far from the hustle and bustle of Santa Elena, the property is very secluded, with nicely landscaped grounds and elaborate gardens. There is even a butterfly garden in the lobby. $125-300, includes breakfast. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Downstairs Double Room with Forest View at Monteverde Lodge and Gardens

 

El Establo

El Establo is a solid mid-range option. This is a larger hotel with 155 rooms. The property sits on a steep hill and has outstanding views of the cloud forest. Rooms are spread out among different buildings. If you won’t have a car, they have a shuttle to take you to other parts of the property, including the on-site restaurant, spa, zip line, and pool. $200-300. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

View from a room balcony at El Establo

 

Los Pinos Cabanas

Los Pinos offers rustic, but clean and comfortable, wooden cabins. The cabins are spread out along the nicely forested property, making them feel quite private. Wildlife often can be seen scurrying along the surrounding trails. Cabins range from standard, which are good for couples, to much larger family cabins with separate bedrooms, living space, and kitchenettes. Located between Santa Elena and Monteverde. $80-150, includes breakfast. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

One of the smaller cabinas at Los Pinos

 

Hotel El Viandante

On our most recent visit to Monteverde, we stayed at Hotel El Viandante and really enjoyed it. This is a small lodge located just outside the main area of Santa Elena on a quiet side street. Rooms are large and simple, yet comfortable, with TV and heat (sometimes necessary on cooler nights in the cloud forest). The staff is very friendly and knowledgeable about the area. We got several great recommendations for restaurants from them. $50-75 double occupancy, includes breakfast. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Our room at Hotel El Viandante

 

Mar Inn

The Mar Inn is a good budget option in Santa Elena. This small B&B is in a local neighborhood, just a short walk to restaurants and shops in the downtown. Rooms are rustic but clean and spacious. $65-80 double occupancy. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Quadruple Room at Mar Inn

 

Bed and Breakfast Eddy’s Place

Not far from Mar Inn is Eddy’s Place. Also a small B&B, Eddy’s Place has five rooms and is a popular option in town. The hotel is locally owned, and the owner and staff go out of their way to ensure that you have a great stay. A made-to-order breakfast is included in the nightly rate. $70 double occupancy. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Bed and Breakfast Eddy’s Place

 

Cabinas Eddy B&B

Not to be confused with Eddy’s Place, Cabinas Eddy B&B is the owner’s other, more basic property. It has 18 rooms and is located on the other side of Santa Elena, very close to the downtown, on the main road out of town. The hotel offers three types of rooms: a basic room for around $35, larger double rooms for $50, and family-size rooms for $55-100. Most have private baths but a couple have shared if you’re looking to save some money. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Upstairs room at Cabinas Eddy B&B

 

Historias Lodge

Historias Lodge is another good budget option. This small hotel is locally owned by a friendly Tico and feels very authentic. Rooms are all set up a little differently but each has comfortable beds and a private bath. Historias Lodge is just off the main road going from Monteverde to Santa Elena on a quieter side street. $65-75 double occupancy, includes breakfast. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

Double Standard Room at Historias Lodge

 

Monteverde Inn

Monteverde Inn is a great choice for nature lovers. Not only does it neighbor the Monteverde Butterfly Garden, but it also has its own on-site trails through the private Valle Escondido Preserve. During our visit, we saw wildlife like a white-nosed coati (a raccoon-like animal) and lots of birds. The views from the property are also stunning, stretching all the way to the Pacific Ocean. Monteverde Inn has 18 rooms with various setups, including a romantic honeymoon house and a family house with 3 bedrooms. $40-75 double occupancy, breakfast included. Check Rates and Availability Here.

 

View of the Gulf of Nicoya from Monteverde Inn

 

Those are our choices for hotels in Monteverde. Stay tuned for a complete destination guide to the best area activities, attractions, and restaurants.

Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you book a hotel using one of the links, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. By booking with the links, you help us keep our blog going, so thank you! Read our Privacy Policy for more information.
Have you stayed in one of these hotels or have others to recommend? Leave a comment below and let us know your experience (Email subscribers click here to post your comment online).
Looking for more info to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:

La Fortuna: What to Expect from Costa Rica’s Most Popular Destination – A lot of people visiting Monteverde also go to La Fortuna for its famous volcano and hot springs. Read our destination guide to this popular town, which includes activity and hotel recommendations.
Packing for Costa Rica: The Essentials – Tips on what to bring for your trip. Covers clothing, footwear, and some essentials that you might not think of.
Rental Car Discount – Save on a 4×4 for your trip to Monteverde with our discount.

 

 

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