Mark Horrell's Blog, page 48

Climbing big mountains isn’t everyone’s cup of tea

We're all different; some of us enjoy walking all day up a steep hill and going to sleep in a tent, while others prefer lying on a beach or partying all night. Luckily the world is big enough to accommodate all of us, but there seems to be a surprisingly large number of people who climb big mountains when they're really not enjoying themselves. Continue reading →

Ueli Steck’s guide to the 8000m peaks

A short while ago I attended a lecture by the Swiss climber Ueli Steck, known affectionately as the Swiss Machine, and later wrote about how ridiculous his mountaineering career has been. Last week I went to see him again after he had done something even more ridiculous. Continue reading →

When the mountain gods are angry

I've been pretty lucky with my adventures so far. Although they don't always go according to plan I've never experienced a major disaster. I had a chance to reflect on this while I was sheltering in a mountain hut in Patagonia reading John Quillen's account of his attempt on Broad Peak last year. Continue reading →

Cerro San Lorenzo and the Patagonian summer

Sometimes it's useful to have low expectations so that when the impossible doesn't happen, you're not disappointed. This is especially true in Patagonia, where the weather is temperamental. I didn't have high hopes of reaching the summit of 3706m Cerro San Lorenzo, but I was determined to give it a go. Continue reading →

Everest’s magic miracle highway

When the 1922 expedition team set out, they already knew their approach to Everest lay up a side valley known as the East Rongbuk, but they knew little of the terrain they would find there. When they arrived they discovered a tumbling mass of jagged ice towers the size of buildings, but there was also a miraculous way through. Continue reading →

The first man ever to have got on top

Here's some Christmas cheer for those of you who have been enjoying a plump turkey and a really good stuffing today. I tore the following page from the comic Viz when I was much younger than I am now, and it has been sitting quietly in a picture frame on my hallway wall for many years. I feel it's time it received wider audience. Continue reading →

Why would anyone spend Christmas in Patagonia?

There's not really a good time of year to visit Chilean Patagonia. Quite a lot of wind circulates the globe at that latitude and slams into its mountains with full force, producing severe and prolonged storms and freezing temperatures. So why will I be returning there this Christmas for the first time in ten years? Continue reading →

The Eighth Summit: the highest mountain in Central America

I thought my ascent of the highest mountain in Central America, an extinct 4220m volcano in Guatemala called Volcán Tajumulco, was going to be little more than a tick in the box, but that was far from being the case. Its summit was a real surprise, with a view as fine as any mountain I've climbed. Continue reading →

Frank Smythe is more interesting than George Mallory

The headline 'Mallory's body discovered on Everest in 1936' appeared widely on social media sites last week. Had new revelations emerged about whether Mallory reached the summit of Everest? No, the real subject of the story wasn't George Mallory at all, but arguably a much more interesting character. Continue reading →

How not to do a mountaineering presentation

Climbing has as much in common with public speaking as it does with hosting a dinner party. I've seen some great lectures by mountaineering legends over the years, but last week I attended a lecture that was about as slick as a mountaineer's chin after two weeks in an ice cave. Continue reading →