Mark Horrell's Blog, page 44

December 17, 2014

The Denali concession: is it good for customer choice?

Denali's West Buttress route seen from Camp 1 on the Kahiltna Glacier. 92% of people climb Denali by this route. Does the concession system encourage this?

The Denali guiding concession is up for grabs. According to the National Park Service it's intended to provide a variety of mountaineering services of different prices and style. But is this true? I had a look at what the existing operators are offering. Continue reading →
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Published on December 17, 2014 08:09

December 10, 2014

How Nepal first came to open its doors to tourism

Nepal has become the go-to destination for Himalayan trekking and mountaineering

The book I'm writing about my journey to the summit of Everest contains a chapter on high altitude trekking. Nepal was isolated from the outside world for much of its history, but has become the Himalayas' go-to destination. How did this happen? Continue reading →
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Published on December 10, 2014 08:08

December 3, 2014

Expedition insurance: why I’m ditching BMC for another provider

BMC Insurance: great in theory, not so good in practice

For several years now Christmas has been the time to renew my annual travel insurance with the British Mountaineering Council (BMC). This year I won't be, and this post is all about why and where I'll be shopping around. Continue reading →
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Published on December 03, 2014 08:00

November 26, 2014

Southwest ridge of Cholatse: the videos

Chad traverses the meat cleaver on the way down from the summit of Cholatse (Photo: Chad Brenner)

Last week I posted a trip report about our Cholatse ascent that was so long I imagine a few of you couldn't be bothered to read it. Luckily for those of you who prefer to watch a bit of action I also have some spine tingling video footage. Continue reading →
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Published on November 26, 2014 08:09

November 19, 2014

Cholatse 11, Ama Dablam 0 (Everest arrested for streaking)

Climbing the headwall below Camp 1 on Cholatse

If ever I used omens as a means of determining my next holiday destination, then it's likely I would have spent this autumn sunning myself on a beach. Luckily I'm not superstitious, and my climb of Cholatse proved as happy and successful as an expedition can be. Continue reading →
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Published on November 19, 2014 08:07

November 12, 2014

When is a summit not a summit?

Me on the summit of Cholatse last week, but can you spot anything funny about the photo?

Last week I managed to reach the summit of 6440m Cholatse in Nepal, which has a reputation for being one of the country's most challenging technical peaks. But there's a bit of a twist, and if you look closely you might notice something funny about my summit photo. Continue reading →
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Published on November 12, 2014 08:04

October 29, 2014

How many aitches in Machapuchare?

Many people's first view of Machapuchare is from the town of Pokhara

Machapuchare, the celebrated 6,993m peak in Nepal's Annapurna range, is often given the ludicrous spelling Machhapuchhare, with two sets of double aitches. This post is all about how to spell the mountain correctly. Continue reading →
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Published on October 29, 2014 09:01

October 22, 2014

Chillaxing on Cholatse: a return to Nepal

A closer view of Cholatse and the Southwest Ridge (right skyline) from Gokyo Ri

Last year was the first since 2005 I didn't go to Nepal, so in 2014 I'm making up for it by going twice. By the time you read this I will be heading to the Khumbu region to attempt 6440m Cholatse. It's likely to be the hardest climb I've ever done. Continue reading →
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Published on October 22, 2014 08:00

October 17, 2014

It’s normal to say you’re going to break someone’s legs, Sherpa admits

The threat of violence that followed the issuing of a list of demands was very real (Photo: Ricardo Peña)

National Geographic has just published a series of articles about this year's Everest avalanche when 16 Sherpas died. Buried further down the story is one startling statement that leapt out of the page at me. Continue reading →
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Published on October 17, 2014 04:43

October 15, 2014

Everest’s deadliest day – debating Everest’s future

Panellists Ed Douglas, Simon Lowe, Rebecca Stephens, Dawa Steven Sherpa, Doug Scott, and chair Ben Ayers discuss the future of Everest (Photo: Natalie Armitage)

Everest's Deadliest Day was the title of a debate at the RGS in London last week, about the April avalanche and what it meant for the future of Himalayan climbing and the economy of Nepal. Here is my account and thoughts about the event. Continue reading →
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Published on October 15, 2014 08:00