Mark Horrell's Blog, page 46

August 6, 2014

Exploring the Cordillera Blanca’s high altitude playground

Me on the summit of Ishinca, with Ranrapalca behind

Peru's Cordillera Blanca mountain range offers a veritable playground for the mountain lover, be they a trekker, alpinist or high altitude snow plodder, with glorious scenery and a range of different climbing. Here's what happened when I went there last month. Continue reading →
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Published on August 06, 2014 08:08

July 30, 2014

Is K2 the new Everest?

Major clmbing routes on the south side of K2. A: West Ridge; B: West Face; C: Southwest Pillar; D: South Face; E: South-southeast Spur; F: Abruzzi Spur (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

There were remarkable events on K2 this week, with record numbers of climbers reaching the summit. K2 is regarded as one of the hardest mountains in the world, but has it now become within the range of less experienced commercial climbers? Continue reading →
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Published on July 30, 2014 08:06

July 24, 2014

Peruvian icefall doctors: a case study

Crossing a makeshift ladder over a crevasse on Tocllaraju, Peru

The photograph below shows Pasang Ongchu Sherpa crossing a ladder over a crevasse on Tocllaraju in Peru. A Himalayan veteran with multiple ascents of Everest and Manaslu to his name Pasang is no stranger to using ladders to get across crevasses, but even he looked a little nervous crossing this one. Continue reading →
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Published on July 24, 2014 08:08

July 9, 2014

A return to the Peruvian Andes, in very different circumstances

Located in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca a few hours’ drive from the tourist town of Huaraz, Huascaran is actually two mountains, Huascaran Sur and Huascaran Norte (Photo: Buz Groshong / SummitPost)

By the time you read this I will be in Peru, setting out in the hope of climbing its highest mountain, 6768m Huascaran. It's been a long time coming. My one and only visit to Peru was when I walked the Huayhuash Circuit as a novice trekker in 2002. Continue reading →
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Published on July 09, 2014 08:02

July 2, 2014

4 ways to improve the south side of Everest

Lots of things have been written about how to fix Everest. Overwhelmingly these articles seem to be written by people who are not climbers and/or have never been there, or are alpinists.

I'm going to finish my series of posts on this year's Everest season on a positive note by looking at some possible ways forward for commercial mountaineering on Everest. The aim is not just to make the mountain safer but to improve the overall experience for all who climb it. Continue reading →
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Published on July 02, 2014 08:08

June 25, 2014

The cod science of Everest hate

Deaths among Sherpas on Everest looks like Jupiter in this diagram, but how reliable is the data? (Source: Outside magazine)

One thing every Everest climber has to get used to is hate written about them in the media. Sometimes the hate becomes so pervasive that it starts to resemble propaganda, and one particularly corrosive piece of propaganda concerning Everest has been cited frequently recently and needs to be challenged. Continue reading →
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Published on June 25, 2014 08:00

June 18, 2014

Getting married is the peak of hubris

Vicars are up in arms for a fairer share of the spoils which mainly get divided up among photographers, wedding venue owners and caterers

With vicars treated like lapdogs by cretinous narcissists, a crisis in church matrimony was inevitable. This week on the Footsteps of the Mountain blog we welcome Tony Gould as our special guest blogger, who will be talking knowledgeably about one of his favourite topics, marriage and road traffic accidents. Continue reading →
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Published on June 18, 2014 08:06

June 11, 2014

Leo Houlding does his bit for the Sherpas

Leo Houlding's lecture at the Royal Geographical Society had an Everest theme

Last week one of Britain's top rock climbers did a lecture at the RGS in London. Rock climbing isn't generally my thing, but this talk had an Everest theme, and one of its aims was to raise money for the families of the Sherpas who died in the 18 April avalanche. Continue reading →
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Published on June 11, 2014 08:09

June 4, 2014

A funny name for a mountain

Kangchung Peak (middle) in the Khumbu region of Nepal will henceforth be known as UIAA Peak (Photo: Brent Smith)

There have been some strange names given to mountains over the years, often for very obscure reasons. Recently the Nepal Mountaineering Association has been applying more modern names, and has just given two peaks onomatopoeic titles that resemble the sound of somebody throwing up.
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Published on June 04, 2014 08:04

May 29, 2014

The Everest Base Camp summit meeting: an eyewitness account

Pasang Tenzing Sherpa, one of the leaders of the protesters, incites the crowd during a speech

In April government officials flew into Everest Base Camp to meet with Sherpas who had issued demands after a fatal avalanche. Afterwards they issued a press release about the meeting that was misleading in a number of ways. Here is my account of the events I witnessed that day. Continue reading →
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Published on May 29, 2014 08:01