Mark Horrell's Blog, page 50

The Epic of Everest – Captain John Noel’s film of the 1924 expedition

If I had one word to describe The Epic of Everest, John Noel's historic record of the 1924 expedition, which has recently been restored, then it would be atmospheric. If I had a second one then it would be weird, but then I'm not that familiar with 1920s silent movies and I expect they were all like this back then. Continue reading →

The first winter ascent of Broad Peak – a tribute

Poland has produced some of the world's toughest and bravest mountaineers, none more so than Krzysztof Wielicki, who earlier this year led a team of his fellow countrymen to attempt the first winter ascent of Broad Peak in Pakistan. A gripping film about the climb has recently been published on Vimeo. Continue reading →

Do we really need more 8000m peaks?

The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) is considering a request from Nepal to reclassify five peaks within the country, and another in Pakistan, as 8000m peaks. But are they worthy of the name, and is there any point? Let's have a look at the peaks in question. Continue reading →

Sir Chris Bonington’s life in 90 minutes

Britain's greatest living mountaineer is currently touring the country with a series of lectures about his life, and I was lucky enough to see one of them. An important World Cup qualifier was taking place that evening, but if Chris Bonington's life were a football match it would be a 22 goal thriller which ended 11 goals all and went into extra time. Continue reading →

5 ways to prove a summit claim

If a climber reaches the top of a mountain and no one is around to see them, have they reached the summit? Lots of people make false summit claims, for all sorts of reasons, so how can you be sure? Here are some of the ways of proving a summit claim. Continue reading →

Book review: Everest The First Ascent by Harriet Tuckey

There has been a flurry of books about Everest published this year to coincide with the 60th anniversary of the first ascent. This one stands out because it challenges many widely held beliefs and provides a very different perspective of the 1953 expedition than most other accounts. Continue reading →

Summit day on Manaslu: what’s it really like?

Variable snow conditions mean summits of mountains can differ from year to year. One mountain whose summit is unrecognisable from when it was first climbed in 1956 is Manaslu in Nepal. Its summit has changed so much that modern mountaineers could almost be climbing a different mountain. Continue reading →

World firsts are meaningless, personal firsts are profound

Some people think adventure is dead because most of the world has now been explored, and there aren't many genuine firsts in exploration still remaining. But is this true, or is it just the meaning of adventure that needs to be redefined? Continue reading →

Where on earth are Tenzing Peak and Hillary Peak anyway?

Two mountains in Nepal are to be named after Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary, according to a number of baffling media reports last week. Is this really true, and what mountains are they? Once again I will rummage through the detritus of mainstream media waffle, and try to shed some light on the story. Continue reading →

Snowdon via the Llanberis Path

Good weather was forecast in the Welsh hills last weekend, so I headed up to Snowdonia, where I completed a fine circular walk of Snowdon via the Llanberis Path and the long whale-backed ridge of Moel Eilio. I expected it to be busy, but not as busy as the media would have you believe. Continue reading →