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I Speed-Hiked a 19,700-Foot Peak in the Himalayas. Here’s What Went Wrong.

My friends and I chose the date of September 15, 2024, a day picked after scouring our weather apps and seeing that it promised sun and clear skies. Six of us were ready to tackle a peak 19,783 feet, or 6,030 meters, above sea level: UT Kangri II. Four of us would be attempting it for the first time, while two in our group had made the trek before.

UT Kangri II is a peak in the union territory of Ladakh in India. It’s a sparsely populated, high-altitude region on the western Himalayas, with desert-like terrain, deep valleys, and mountain passes. Of the hikable mountains in India for beginners, UT Kangri II itself is relatively non-technical, with an easy approach. But it’s still a grueling challenge, given the altitude – especially as our goal wasn’t just to reach the top, but to speed-hike it in a single day. We’d start before the sun rose and return before dusk, ideally.

Most people do UT Kangri II as a three-day trip, taking the first day to reach basecamp, the second day to summit and return to basecamp, and the third day to trek down from basecamp. There are usually a few days of acclimatization and training before that for travelers coming from outside northern India. The trailhead sits at a base elevation of more than 15,000 feet, and the summit is only 500 feet shorter than , the tallest peak in all of North America. Since we’d be making an elevation gain of 4,600 feet in one day, one thing was certain: we had to prepare well.

The road to Rumtse

Driving from Leh to Rumtse. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

Around 3 PM on September 14, we squeezed into Pranav’s two-door SUV, ready for the adventure about to unfold. From Leh, the largest city in Ladakh, we drove two hours to Rumtse, a village at 13,400ish feet above seat level. Our evening in Rumtse was spent sipping ginger-lemon-honey tea — something recommended to mitigate the effects of altitude — going on a short acclimatization walk, and debating the ideal time to start hiking in the morning. After dinner, we crammed into a single room where six mattresses were sat side by side. The space buzzed with our high-pitched chatter, which soon faded into muffled giggling as we tried to get some sleep.

Three alarms went off at 3 AM. I hadn’t slept much anyway, so I was relieved to get up. After futile attempts at emptying our bowels, we double-checked our gear: water, food, headlamps, hiking poles, traction devices, sunglasses, sunscreen, altimeters, warm layers, and cameras. There was no room for error. We piled back into the SUV, and made the roughly 40-minute drive to the trailhead.

Our first steps toward the summit

We left our homestay bright and early to be on the trail before sunrise. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

By 4:30 AM, we stood at the trailhead, at an elevation of 15,072 feet above sea level. The sky was mostly clear, stars sparkling like someone splashed diamonds scattered across it. We began hiking, keeping three key rules in mind: stay steady rather than fast, speak up if anyone felt breathless, and drink water periodically, even if we didn’t feel thirsty.

The first 2.5 miles were a breeze. A few clouds hovered over distant peaks, which concerned Deepak, who had made this exact trek before. But our pace was great, and spirits were high as dawn lit up the surrounding peaks in crisp, golden light. We all felt a boost of energy when the summit came into view, looking as majestic as we’d hoped. After two hours, we plopped down about half a mile before the basecamp used by overnight hikers, snacking on the aloo parathas (Indian flatbreads stuffed with spiced potato) our homestay owners from the night before had packed for us.

Soon, tiny, perfectly hexagonal snowflakes began falling, sending us back to a childlike sense of happiness. Unfortunately, we paid little attention to the peak we were to climb, which now stood against a backdrop of brooding clouds.

A struggle for breath – and confidence

The hiking started well, but the weather soon took a turn. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

By about 16,400 feet above sea level (about 5,000 meters), I found myself struggling, noticing that the combination of high altitude and low oxygen was catching up to me. “Take a set number of steps before resting, find a rhythm, and breathe as you go,” seasoned UT Kangri II hiker Deepak advised me.

While I appreciated the help, at that moment, I just wanted to be teleported to the summit, and questioned why I thought I could speed-hike to the summit when I’d never been this high. Before UT Kangri II, the the only place where I’d spent more than a few days at a high elevation was in India’s Spiti Valley, where I worked on a wildlife documentary at elevations of about 13,800 feet above sea level. And UT Kangri II was another 6,000 feet higher than that.

Somehow, I pushed through, and by 9:30 AM, we reached the final stretch of the trek: a 45-degree ascent along a steep glacier that gained 1,300 feet of elevation. It was the section for which we’d rented traction devices (also called crampons) back in Leh. Deepak ran us through the basics of using them: how to strap them to our boots, tucking in all the straps, and making sure they were tight, showing us how to move with flat feet to take short, wide steps.

Icy trails and close calls

The hike using traction devices across a glacier was the most challenging section of trail. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

As we started the glacier section, it was clear this would be the real test. The snowfall had created near-whiteout conditions, but Vibhu, who had summited several equally tall peaks in the days before our trip, reassured us we’d be fine if our gear and stamina held up. My nervous mind raced with “what ifs” as my extremities turned to popsicles, and I gave thanks for the warm layers and clothing I did have. I was hopeful that the clouds would clear and give us a glimpse of the forecasted sun.

Taking my first crampon-supported steps on the ice, I felt like I suddenly had superpowers, with my secure steps gripping the ice better than expected – and creating an oddly satisfying crunch with every step.

But it was cold, and the thin air was taxing on our lungs and leg muscles. Snow collected in my hair, at the nape of my neck, and on my eyelashes. We knew the summit was just under 1,000 feet away, but each fatiguing step made it feel even farther. We settled into a rhythm as a group: twenty steps, then a break. Repeat.

The group switched to hiking up an alternate route on a scree field, rather than continuing on the glacier. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

Minutes later, the routine was broken: Pranav lost his balance and slipped down the glacier. “Somebody stop me!” he yelled, reaching for anything to grab. Fortunately, his slide ended after about 150 feet, coming to a stop against a slightly raised area on the slope. He was unhurt but shaken, and so was I. It made me realize how dangerous one small mistake could cause – in his case, leaning too far forward while trying to sit, which shifted his weight downslope. Once he rejoined us, we decided to take off our crampons and veer off the icy section, opting to hike the rest of the way along a scree field (section of loose rocks and gravel), rather than continuing on the glacier.

But then, even off the ice, it happened again: I slipped on a loose rock, slamming my knee into another. The pain shot through me, but I tested if I could put some weight back on it, then kept going.

The final ascent

The author and her hiking companions at the top of UT Kangri II. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

We summited at 12:28 PM, after an eight-hour hike and elevation gain of 4,600 feet, all in the worst weather possible. At the top, the six of us hugged, unable to grasp what we’d just achieved to get there. I felt strong – even invincible. I joked about how, just a month ago, I’d been so depressed I almost canceled this trip. But standing on the summit of UT Kangri II, I couldn’t understand how I’d ever considered scrapping it. The world felt wide open and full of possibilities, and I was right there in the center of it.

Soon, the snowfall eased. I was crying, overwhelmed with a mix of pain, pride, euphoria, and disbelief. Looking up, I saw two of my crewmates crying too, and it hit me how adventures like these really show us who we are. There’s simply no room for masking. It’s both humbling and freeing, and partly why I enjoy extreme adventures. Perhaps it’s my version of the current viral trend of “rawdogging” travel.

We took one mandatory group picture, and tied prayer flags on the peak. But before long, blizzard-like conditions started to once again take hold, and Pranav began showing signs of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness, or altitude sickness), such as a pounding headache and dizziness. We started descending immediately.

The UT Kangri II descent

Clear skies returned by the end of our hike. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

For the next three hours, the snowfall was relentless. It was black and white as far as the eye could see. Some might say it resembled Iceland or Finland, but to me, it looked unmistakably like what I expect in the far-north parts of India, especially Ladakh: raw, barren, chilling. My lips were chapped and my knees in excruciating pain, but occasionally, moments of awe still found their way through – like when I stopped to pee and giggled at the steam rising off the cold, snowy rocks. Or when the wind whipped up tiny snow tornadoes.

By the time we reached basecamp, the weather had cleared. Blue skies dominated, and the sunshine warmed our cold, weary bodies. The surrounding mountains came back into view, showing peaks dusted with fresh snow. Pranav’s AMS symptoms improved, and we finally had an easy stretch of trail.

I slipped on my headphones, letting Led Zeppelin power my pace. Every so often, I’d glance back at the summit, still amazed at how far we’d come. I’d like to believe this difficult climb was meant to reveal to me my own strength, but maybe that’s just me trying to make sense of the whirlwind of a day. By 6 PM, we were back to where we started. It had been just over 14 hours, but it felt like a whole month had passed.

What I’d do differently

The writer spent plenty of time before the trek in high-elevation Leh, India. Photo: Vladimir Zhoga/Shutterstock

I knew this would be a day I’d write about endlessly in my journals, and in my professional work as a writer. Despite the tough conditions, I’m proud of how we handled things, and supported each other as a team. That said, we definitely should’ve carried ice axes, which could have helped with self-arrest on the glacier. And I wish we had paid more attention to the weather — not necessarily because we would have turned around, but because the snow and cold took us a bit by surprise, given the forecast.

If you’re ever planning a hike in the Himalayas, especially above 10,000 feet, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

Respect the mountains (and their ability to challenge even the best-laid plans). Always prepare for the worst-case scenario. For example, I packed a pair of bottom thermals (a base layer), despite being convinced I wouldn’t need them. But when the snow came, I was glad I had them.Know your limits. There’s a fine line between pushing yourself and pushing yourself too far. I’ve spent significant time living and hiking at high altitudes, so attempting UT Kangri II as a speed hike wasn’t too far out of my comfort zone.Acclimatize well. This can’t be overstated. At the time of the trek, I’d already spent 20 days in Ladakh, and we slept in Rumtse at more than 13,000 feet above sea level. Bring the right medications (asking your doctor to prescribe Diamox may be a good idea), and drink plenty of water. If you experience symptoms like dizziness or confusion, descend immediately.Go with a team you trust. While we were self-guided, two of our team members had extensive mountaineering experience. If it’s your first time, always hike with a local guide.Check the weatherFrequently. It’s ironic I say this after our experience, but checking the weather apps is still wise. Yes, the mountains can surprise you, but there are plenty of times I’ve been thankful I checked in advance. More like thisArt + Architecture7 Amazing Monasteries to Check Out in Ladakh, India

This Multifunctional Pack Will Last You a Lifetime, and Is Currently 20% Off

Peak Design has achieved something great with the Travel Backpack 45L. The carry-on is everything I’ve ever wanted from a multifunctional pack: It’s handsome as hell, expandable and collapsible, and the pockets actually fit a reasonably sized water bottle. It also comes with a lifetime warranty. Does that mean I’m at the end of the long road of testing carry-on packs? Perhaps.

We hope you love the Peak Design Travel Backpack we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to purchase. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.

The Peak Design Travel Backpack can replace cumbersome camera bags, but even if you’re not a gear-laden traveler, it’s a fantastic general go-to bag for getaways.

It’s been called “the unicorn bag” by other reviewers, and that’s not a stretch. The exceptional design and construction is a fit for many types of excursions, from hiking, to photography sessions, to a carry-on and a 35-liter daypack. It’s the kind of backpack you’ll receive a look of admiration from another owner, much like you get when you pass a fellow EV driver on the road..

Buy now for 20% off

There are three colorways to choose from: black on black, sage, and my personal favorite, coyote. It’s constructed from durable 400D nylon canvas, with a reinforced 900D nylon canvas base to enhance abrasion resistance. The base material offers a slightly rubberized texture. While many similar bags opt for ballistic nylon, Peak Design’s intentional choice of canvas is smart. It feels nice to touch, and it’s water resistant (plus, there’s a DWR-coated polyurethane liner to help give an extra layer of protection).

What I love the most about this pack is how comfortable and innovative the harness system is. The straps are hideable, so you can carry the pack like a duffle in one hand. But if you want to strap on in, you’re in for a treat.

Photo: Peak Design

Peak Deisgn’s signature rotating high-density foam padded straps are a lifesaver when you’re rushing through an airport and you need to quickly access valuables from the pack by swinging it around to your side. To balance out a heavy load, a detachable sternum strap can be stored vertically along the shoulder strap or as a small loop when not in use. The hip belt is expertly padded, and again, you can stow this away when you don’t need it. Two external pockets are also perfectly sized and even fit a YETI Rambler flask, which never leaves my side. Many other zippered pockets help add to the feeling that the team at Peak Design sat around a whiteboard and brainstormed everything a traveler (every type of traveler) would want from a pack, and then delivered.

Photo: Peak Design

You can compress this pack down or extend it out. External compression zippers allow for additional storage. These are easy to use, and within seconds you can transform it from a day pack into a sturdy piece of luggage. You can also compress towards the top of the pack with a button system. There’s so much you can do with the external features of the pack to tailor it to what you need that it’s worth watching Peak Design’s set-up and tips video.

The inside has more well-thought-out storage. At the top, a quick-access pocket with stretchy mesh is ideal for airport essentials. The front panel has a smart organizational system. The upper section features a rubberized mesh pocket that provides visibility and easy access to contents. This compartment has multiple smaller pockets for pens, pencils, chargers, and adapters. These pockets can be flattened when unused, maximizing the bag’s overall space.

Photo: Peak Design

The opposite side of the compartment mirrors this layout, with a half-mesh pocket and a liner pocket. This compartment has dual-sided accessibility. Items can be accessed from both the main compartment and the front panel, and the removable separator can be stored at the bottom of the main compartment, transforming the bag into a spacious duffel.

There’s no getting around the fact that Peak Design packs are pricey. But, it’s currently reduced from $319.95 to $255.96 for coyote, $239.96 for sage and the same 20 percent off for black. If you’re in the market for a great all-rounder, you’ll find it hard to get anything as multifunctional as this for the price point. Keep in mind that you get a lifetime guarantee, so choose your color wisely, as this pack will likely become your companion for years to come.

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This Fairytale Village in the Swiss Alps Is Perfect for Outdoor Adventure, Food Crawls, and Local Wine

As I sipped my penicillin cocktail beneath the weight of a fleece blanket, one of Europe’s tallest snow-capped mountains staring back at me, it immediately clicked: this is what people come to the Swiss Alps for — well, my kind of people at least. While many visitors pack their bags destined for the slopes, for someone as anti-winter sport as I am, sipping belly-warming cocktails against one of the planet’s most stunning backdrops is certainly something I can get behind.

Photo: Vicki Denig

Grindelwald is one of Switzerland’s tiny, fairytale-like villages, and is located in the Bernese Oberland region of Switzerland. Many come to take on the heights of the Jungfrau, deemed the “Top of Europe,” or take on other forms of daring outdoor escapades. I, however, was drawn to the village for its food and beverage scene, which flies under the radar compared to the reputation the region has built up around outdoor adventure.

Photos: Vicki Denig

In addition to the standard savory delights that Switzerland is known for — many of which incorporate copious amounts of gooey cheese — there’s another side to Switzerland’s gastronomy scene, one focused on precision, technique, and locally-sourced ingredients. This has allowed for a diverse drinking culture. From small-production wines crafted in cool-climate vineyard sites to locally-produced brandies and liqueurs distilled from fresh fruit, and Grindelwald is a great home base for diving into the best Switzerland has to offer.

Where to eat and drink in Grindelwald

Hop in a fondue gondola at Hotel Belvedere

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Starting with the basics is always a good idea, especially when it comes in the form of melted cheese stored in a stationary vintage cable car. Located just outside the Hotel Belvedere, these nostalgic gondolas offer the perfect backdrop for enjoying fondue al fresco, snow-capped mountain views included. Enjoy your cheese the classic way (plain) or add some truffle for a boost of flavor. Spring for the two-person tasting package, which includes a bottle of Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne. Important note before going: Dress in layers! Although the gondola doors close, their outdoor location makes it susceptible to getting a bit chilly.

Hotel Belvedere: Dorfstrasse 53, 3818 Grindelwald, Switzerland

Indulge in a local chef’s choice tasting menu at Hotel Fiescherblick

Photo: Vicki Denig

Spearheaded by brothers Matthias and Lars Michel, Hotel Fiescherblick is a piece of Grindelwald history. Opened in December 2022, the pair represent the fifth-generation of hoteliers in their family (their parents own the Gletschergarten just next door), and bring a myriad of experience to the table, both figuratively and literally. The boutique hotel’s restaurant offers one of the most impressive tasting menus in town, and is inspired by the pair’s culinary travels through Scandinavia and Japan. The dynamic kitchen team is made up of young (sub-30) chefs passionate for high-quality produce and locally-sourced ingredients, which they use to craft the joint’s seasonally rotating four, five, and six-course Chef’s Choice menu. The wine pairing is optional, though definitely recommended.

Hotel Fiescherblick: Dorfstrasse 203, 3818 Grindelwald, Switzerland

Enjoy the village’s best wine cellar (local picks included) at GLACIER

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This is the place for wine lovers to dive into the world of Swiss wine. In addition to the thoughtful five- and seven-course tasting menus proposed by chef Paul Cabayé (á la carte offerings are also available), one of the most impressive highlights at GLACIER is its show-stopping wine list. The 42-page list features more than 450 references with an emphasis on Swiss and French wine, with more than 150 selections available by the glass at all times. As the team states, the restaurant’s focus on Swiss wines “showcases the heritage and exceptional craftsmanship of winemakers in the region” — which, above all, come to life alongside Cabayé’s delectable dishes. Best of all, groups of up to 16 people can book a private wine experience in the restaurant’s cellar, which is over 320 years old.

GLACIER: Endweg 55, 3818 Grindelwald Switzerland

Caffeinate with a view at EigerBean Roastery

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Located on the main street (Dorfstrasse) in Grindelwald village, EigerBean offers a delightful ambiance for a caffeine-fueled pick me up. As the name implies, the roastery is known for coffee and coffee-based beverages (the cappuccino is simply unmissable), though other coffee shop favorites (tea, hot chocolate, etc.) are also available. Enjoy a brew on site, then grab a bag of beans to go to recreate the moment at home.

EigerBean Roastery: Dorfstrasse 195, 3818 Grindelwald, Switzerland

Enjoy a variety of local brandies and liqueurs at The Seven Spirits Bar

Photo: Vicki Denig

Tucked away in the Bergwelt Hotel, The Seven Spirits Bar offers one of the best, not the best, selections of locally produced libations. In addition to a rotating list of seasonal craft cocktails, the bar features a handful of Swiss beers and whiskies, along with a full-page offering of local brandies and liqueurs. Whether cherry, apricot, or plum is what you’re after, this impressive lineup will likely be able to fit your preference. Grab a seat by the fire and let the talented bar staff lead the way.

The Seven Spirits Bar: Bergwelt Grindelwald – Alpine Design Resort Bergwelt 4 3818 Grindelwald

What to do in Grindelwald

Visit Jungfraujoch, AKA the “Top of Europe”

Photo: AaronChenPS2/Shutterstock

No trip to Grindelwald would be complete without a visit to Jungfraujoch. Trekking to one of the highest points in the world has never been easier thanks to the newly launched Eiger Express. Opened in December 2020, this tricable car allows visitors to access the Top of Europe directly from the newly opened Grindelwald Terminal in just 15 minutes (47 minutes quicker than before). Upon reaching the summit, take in the icy air and let the snow crunch beneath your boots at altitudes of over 11,000 feet above sea level.

Photo: Vicki Denig

Tour the resident Ice Palace in winter featuring a handful of sculptures, enjoy a multimedia journey through the history of the mountain, and be sure to grab some delectable Swiss chocolates at the highest Lindt store in the world.

Drive a Mario Kart-esque sled down the mountain

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Nintendo 64 fans, get ready for a dream come true. Inspired by the Swiss love of sledding, the First Mountain Cart allows adventure seekers to steer down Grindelwald’s main mountain, all against a stunning Alpine backdrop. Crafted in a hybrid go-kart/sled design, the carts are able to take on a variety of surfaces, including grass and gravel, which are varied and prevalent across the course’s 1.8-mile duration. Curious adventurers can equally partake in a harnessed hover on an 800-meter long steel cable from First to Schreckfeld via First Flyer, or a belly-down, Superman-inspired soar via the First Glider, which has been known to hit speeds of over 50 miles per hour.

Hike to Lake Bachalp via First

Photo: Vicki Denig

Grab your Jungfrau Travel Pass and hop the cable car to First mountain, which is the access point to a number of scenic hikes and outdoor activities. Upon exiting the terminal, take in the breathtaking views from the lift station’s summit, then embark on a mountainside journey to Bachalpsee, otherwise known as Lake Bachalp.

Photo: Vicki DenigPhoto: Vicki Denig

Deemed the blue jewel of the Bernese Alps, this medium-intensity hike takes around two hours roundtrip, and although certain points are relatively steep, the path is well developed and easy to traverse. Be sure to bring enough water (and possibly a snack for fuel). Upon completing the hike and returning to the cable car station, treat yourself to a First coffee (similar to an Irish coffee, but with a Swiss twist) at the Berggasthaus First mountain inn, located in the terminal.

Where to Stay

We hope you love the stays we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a room.

Bergwelt Grindelwald

Photo: Vicki Denig

For those seeking a harmonious melange of sleek Alpine design meets snug chalet vibes, look no further than the Bergwelt Grindelwald. Home to 90 rooms and suites, this warming hotel offers stunning 360-degree mountain views, as well as a communal fireplace, well-stocked bar, gym, and the unmissable Fire & Ice spa. Guests receive complimentary access to the spa’s sauna and outdoor jacuzzi (reservation required), with a variety of treatments available for an additional cost. Warm up by the fire with a local libation in hand (the bar stocks an impressive amount of Swiss fruit liqueurs and distillates) and settle in.

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Boutique Hotel Glacier

@epic.stays Wake up to breathtaking mountain views at Hotel Glacier in #Grindelwald @Joanna | Travel Creator #switzerlandtravel #luxuryhotel #switzerland #creatorsearchinsights ♬ Good Days – Yenibi

Known for its stunning views of Eiger North Face, this four-star boutique hotel offers 28 cozy rooms, each equipped with a plush king-size bed, Apple TV, Nespresso machine, and a Marshall Bluetooth speaker for lighting up your go-to chill playlist. South-facing rooms boast direct views of the snow-capped Eiger Mountain — with a private outdoor hot tub as the cherry on top. The hotel is also home to a bottom-floor spa equipped with a log-lined sauna and hammam, as well as an award-winning ground floor restaurant that beautifully meshes classic Swiss cuisine with a signature French twist, courtesy of chef Paul Cabayé.

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In Barcelona’s Eixample District, an Historic Hotel Excels in Modern Comforts

Barcelona’s rises between two of Gaudí’s finest landmarks on the Passeig de Gràcia. The Majestic Hotel & Spa Barcelona sailed into its second century of operation in 2018 with a flock of awards recognizing its gastronomy, amenities, and hospitality.

I was attracted to the Majestic Hotel for its proximity to Casa Batlló and Casa Milà as well as other landmarks in Eixample – a district that feels like an open-air exhibition on Modernisme. This balconied monolith is grandiose yet the hotel’s soul is modern and playful with art at every corner, easygoing staff, and a rooftop terrace that’ll leave you dizzy before your first sip of cava. This is what it’s like to stay at the historic Barcelona hotel rated by Ernest Hemingway, Joan Miró, Bob Dylan, and Spanish royalty.

Traveling to Spain? Check out Matador’s Spain accommodations guides: 14 of the best Airbnbs in Barcelona 11 Best Airbnbs in Madrid, From a Luxury Penthouse To Artsy Apartments Take In Alhambra Views from These Airbnbs in Granada, Spain Experience the best of Mallorca from these Airbnbs The most stunning Airbnbs in Tenerife for an epic getaway

We hope you love the Majestic Hotel & Spa Barcelona! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.

Rooms and suites on the Passeig de Gràcia

Photo courtesy Majestic Hotel & Spa

I stayed in a Junior Suite at the Majestic Hotel & Spa with two balconies overlooking the Passeig de Gràcia. My sitting room came with a squashy settee and a stack of art books. Behind the sliding doors, the bedroom flowed into a gleaming marble bathroom with a walk-in shower and jacuzzi bath. After zipping around the nearby attractions and dining in the lobby restaurant, I unwound watching the Casa Batlló illuminations on the balcony before taking a long soak.

On a temperate fall evening, I left the balcony doors ajar overnight and slept to a gentle hum from the streets below in an ultra-comfy bed with an assortment of pillow types. Above the bed hung a piece by Luis López Loza, one of the 1,000 artworks collected by the Soldevila-Casals family on display in the rooms and public areas. In fact, these are what helped me navigate this labyrinthine complex.

The 1970s extension brought the room tally to 360 units. The next round of renovations curtailed that number to 258 larger, more luxurious private domains. Among the five 9th-floor penthouses stands Barcelona’s largest hotel suite: the two-bedroom Majestic Royal Penthouse with its private terrace and jacuzzi overlooking La Sagrada Família. Residency comes with a dedicated butler and chauffeur services. I felt well taken care of during my stay with a friendly guest experience team generous with local tips and onward travel advice.

Rooftop dining at Majestic Hotel & Spa Barcelona

Photo courtesy Majestic Hotel & Spa

La Dolce Vitae is the Majestic’s pièce de résistance. Stretching as far as the Mediterranean Sea, this terrace restaurant skims the rooftops of La Sagrada Família, Casa Batlló, the Glòries Tower: actually, it’s quicker to list the landmarks not within eyeshot. Summer guests can enjoy a dip in the rooftop pool and nightly DJ sessions.

Inclement weather – extremely rare, for Barcelona – redirected me to the equally elegant El Bar Del Majestic where Federico García Lorca spent his evenings during a six-month residency. I feasted on a plump Mediterranean sea bass filet with a medley of sauteed vegetables while listening to the resident pianist. My server also recommended the Mezcal Güell cocktail d’author with Chambord, chocolate, and lemon balancing the smoky spirit.

This bar hosts the Sweet Majestic Pastry Corner with creations by Marc Pérez incorporated into afternoon tea, gourmet brunch, and the buffet breakfast served in SOLC. This fine dining restaurant specializes in farm-to-table cooking from the Soldevila-Casals family’s smallholding in Maresme.

Breakfast was outstanding, pooling together Catalan specialties and international flavors. I spotted cold cuts of jamón ibérico alongside hummus and a selection of crusty bread for DIY pan con tomate. I suggest grabbing a table in the conservatory with a view of the botanical courtyard.

Besides the buffet, eggs and daily specials are cooked to order at the show kitchen. I opted for eggs Benedict topped with smoked river trout from the Pyrenees which powered me through lunch.

Barcelona’s secret oasis (and not-so-secret spa)

Photo courtesy Majestic Hotel & Spa

Seeing as the Majestic is a spa hotel, I’d recommend earmarking some precious vacation time for rest and relaxation. Brand new for 2024, the hotel’s basement has been reconfigured as a wellness sanctuary with a heated 12-meter (39 feet) pool and hydromassage spa.

Here, jetted beds and water cannons relieve tension and reboot circulation. The wellness zone is decorated with palm trees and mirrors that give the illusion of bathing in a patch of jungle. Guests have complimentary use of the wellness center. As numbers are capped, it’s advisable to book – especially on weekends and evenings.

Upstairs at the Majestic Spa, I enjoyed the signature Touch of Calm ritual which fused an exfoliation, wrap, and light massage using Alqvimia essential oils. My therapist chatted through the ingredients and gifted me some Natura Bissé samples to take back to my room. I’m fairly sure I drifted off from time to time and a chaotic journey to Spain was long-forgotten. The rooftop spa also touts a hydrotherapy suite available for private hire.

Majestic Hotel & Spa: an exclusive location in Eixample

Photo courtesy Majestic Hotel & Spa

Eixample is spared the ferocity of the Ciutat Vella. However, Boqueria Market and La Rambla are just a 30-minute walk from the Majestic Hotel & Spa. The Plaça de Catalunya Aerobus stop is 10 minutes on foot and Barcelona-Sants is 10 minutes by taxi.

The Passeig de Gràcia is handy for architectural sights and the Majestic makes it easier to bag “Be the First”, Sunrise, and Night Experience tickets at Casa Batlló and Casa Milà. La Sagrada Família is a pleasant 20-minute stroll, and, with completion slated for 2025, there’s never been a better time to plan a Gaudí-focused getaway.

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I Tested 3 Patagonia Leggings for 6 Months, and One Is Now My Absolute Favorite Piece of Clothing

I have been wearing tights for 34 years (since I started with ballet lessons at the age of 4), and I do everything in leggings. I travel by plane in leggings, I go kayaking with them, I wear them for work with dresses and oversized shirts, and of course I hike and practice yoga with them (despite any controversy involved in doing so). One doesn’t need expensive leggings for any of that (and if you are told you need something, it might be pure consumerist marketing bs). As an environmentally minded person, however, if I am going to get clothing for my activities, I want it to be of good quality, manufactured in a way that produces as little social and environmental harm as possible, and especially, something that lasts. That is why I was excited to try out Patagonia leggings, since everything else I own from the brand – such as my favorite trekking pants and Patagonia rain jacket – has performed better and lasted more than I expected.

This article reviews three different Patagonia leggings that I have been using regularly and in different kinds of weather conditions for the past 6 months: the Pack Out Tights ($119), the Pack Out Hike Tights ($129), and the Maipo 7/8 Stash Tights ($119). The three of them are fair-trade, crafted from recycled materials and made without PFAs. Spoiler alert: the Maipo Stash tights are my favorite by far – of all the tights I’ve ever owned. I just want to wear them all day, every day. The woman that gave me advice on Patagonia products told me exactly that about the Maipo tights, and I thought she was exaggerating. It turns out she was spot on.

We hope you love these Patagonia leggings and Patagonia yoga pants! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to make a purchase.

Shop Patagonia Pack Out Tights

Shop Patagonia Pack Out Hike Tights

Shop Patagonia Maipo ⅞ Stash Tights

Patagonia Women’s Pack Out Tights

The Pack Out Tights come with two drop-in pockets and one zippered side pocket. Photo: Debbie Gonzalez Canada

These tights are made from 87 percent recycled polyester and 13 percent spandex double-knit jersey. They feel thick and are best for temperate weather (spring and fall). They come with a zippered side pocket, which I do not use much, and two drop-in pockets (one on each leg) that I use a lot. The drop-in pockets are big enough for a 5.5-inch phone, for example.

I got them in Mangrove Red because I was color-curious, and they are okay. It is not the most flattering tone for my wide hips with cellulite, if I am being totally transparent about my bodily realities. I am much happier with the other colors I got (see below). If you are shopping online, Patagonia tends to be true to size. In my case, I was between medium and large; I went with medium and they fit, but I believe I would have been happier with large, as the Pack Out tights have a slim fit.

Shop Patagonia Pack Out Tights

Patagonia Women’s Pack Out Hike Tights

The Pack Out Hike Tights have reinforced panels with a different, water repellent fabric around the knees and seat. Photo: Debbie Gonzalez Canada

These tights are similar to the previous pair (in terms of fabric and pockets), except for the reinforced panels. The panels are located on the knees and seat for added durability and abrasion resistance. The panels’ fabric stretch four-ways and is water repellent without using nasty PFCs (perfluorinated chemicals). So, in plain English, you can sit down on light moisture and the panels will prevent your butt from getting soaked.

I got them in the “Smolder Blue” tone and I am happy about that color, as it matches with everything and looks better on my latina hips. This color is on sale now, so you may want to take advantage of that.

Shop Patagonia Pack Out Hike Tights

Patagonia Women’s Maipo 7/8 Stash Tights

The formfitting Maipo 7/8 Stash Tights have a soft feel to them. They come with side pockets and the low-profile flatlock seams prevent chafing. Photo: Debbie Gonzalez Canada

These tights are made from recycled fishing nets and nylon, have an amazing soft feel to them, and they provide odor control. In technical terms, the brand describes the material as follows: “The soft fabric provides fast-drying performance and is built with 81% NetPlus® postconsumer recycled nylon made from recycled fishing nets to help reduce ocean plastic pollution/19% spandex knit that’s treated with miDori bioSoft for added wicking and softness, and HeiQ® Pure odor control.” I wear them in temperate and hot weather all the same, and in the winter I still use them with wool leg warmers on top (once a dancer, always a dancer).

Just like the other two models in this article, these Patagonia leggings also have two drop-in side pockets. The Maipo 7/8 Stash Tights are the lightest of the three, weighing only 6.1 oz (173 g). I got them in black (maybe in 2024 every woman needs not a little black dress but comfy black leggings), and the medium size worked perfectly well, plus I can attest to their “formfitting” describer. No wonder why they are my new favorite piece of clothing.

Shop Patagonia Maipo ⅞ Stash Tights

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Sightseeing in New York Is Set to Get Much Easier (and Safer) in 2025

Walking and biking around lower Manhattan is about to get much safer and more enjoyable. The New York Metropolitan Transportation Authority (MTA) has officially greenlit its revised congestion pricing plan for Manhattan, effective January 5, 2025. The plan involves a phased-in approach to toll increases, with rates starting at $9 for the first three years, then rising to $12 for the following three years, and finally reaching $15 in 2031. These tolls will apply to most passenger vehicles entering Manhattan below 60th Street during peak hours. Governor Kathy Hochul signed the bill into law this week.

The effects of this decision will ripple across the city and even across state lines for commuters coming from New Jersey and elsewhere. While it’s viewed by some as negative since it’s a drag for drivers, it will make sightseeing around New York much more pleasant. New York’s transit authority, the Metropolitan Transit Authority, will receive a significant portion of the revenue generated by the tolls (the exact amount is not yet disclosed), and the money will go to address longstanding issues with the city’s subway system. Other revenue will be spent to improve pedestrian infrastructure throughout the city, and towards repair and maintenance projects that cover the broad spectrum of transportation in New York.

How will New York’s congestion pricing plan make the city a better place to visit?

Photo: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

Here’s how it stands to benefit your next sightseeing excursion:

More pedestrian-friendly streets: With fewer cars on the road, streets will be more pedestrian-friendly, making it easier for tourists to explore the city on foot and enjoy its sights and sounds.Improved subway access to locations throughout the entire city: The revenue generated from the tolls will be used to fund critical capital improvements to the MTA’s infrastructure, such as upgrading subway stations, repairing tracks, and purchasing new trains and buses. This will make getting around the city on the subway more enjoyable.Reduced congestion in Lower Manhattan: By charging a fee for driving into Manhattan during peak hours, the plan aims to reduce traffic congestion. This will lead to faster and more reliable commutes for public transit riders, and will also mean fewer accidents between cars and pedestrians or cyclists.Improved air quality: Fewer cars on the road will lead to reduced air pollution and improved air quality in the city. That means those iconic skyline views will come into better focus on clear days, and your photos will be crisper as a resultSafer public transit: The plan may encourage more people to choose public transportation over driving, which could lead to increased ridership for the MTA. This should improve safety on the subways and buses, as studies have shown that more riders equals increased safety for those riders.

Many indirect benefits could also be realized. Parking could become less of an issue for those that do drive into Lower Manhattan. Eventually, this could lead to a reduced need for parking, allowing that space to be repurposed for things like retail, dining, entertainment, or housing.

“This critical policy should become the national example for how cities can simultaneously fund critical investments in mass transit, reduce vehicle emissions, and deliver congestion relief for residents and businesses,” Kate Slevin, executive vice president of the Regional Plan Association, told Smart Cities Dive.

Will taxi and Uber riders have to pay New York City’s congestion pricing toll?

Photo: EQRoy/Shutterstock

It’s important to note for travelers and residents that riders in taxis, Ubers, and other rideshare services will be subject to the toll, with the cost passed onto the commuter through a simple fare addition.

Those with physical disabilities and certain conditions can be exempt from the congestion pricing. The MTA offers two main exemption plans for people with disabilities. The Individual Disability Exemption Plan (IDEP) is for individuals with disabilities that prevent them from using public transportation, which in some cases can include impairments that prevent them from walking longer distances or standing for extended periods of time. Second, the Organizational Disability Exemption Plan (ODEP) is for organizations that transport people with disabilities, giving them the ability to drive throughout the area affected by congestion pricing without paying the fee. To qualify for either exemption, individuals or organizations must meet specific criteria and register with the MTA.

Anyone not traveling in a motor vehicle is exempt – pedestrians, cyclists, and public transit users can keep their wallet in their pocket, saving not only the toll money but also benefitting from it as a result.

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The New Airbus Plane Will Make It Easier (and Cheaper) to Fly to Lesser-Visited Destinations

The A321XLR, the new Airbus, made its inaugural flight last week with European airline Iberia from Madrid to Boston. The XLR stands for “Xtra Long Range,” and this slimline plane will improve the long-haul route landscape around the world. Not only does it burn considerably less fuel than its rivals, but it will also expand the possibilities of reaching places off the beaten track that are currently only accessible by domestic carriers.

The A321XLR has a narrow body and an incredible range. It has a single aisle, two-class format seating around 180 to 200 passengers, similar to what you’d expect from a typical domestic aircraft. But this small plane can reach up to 4,700 nautical miles, or 8,700 kilometers, without refueling. And while that’s still quite a bit of the range of the type of aircraft you’ll be used to flying long haul, like the wide-bodied A350 900, which has a range of around 15,000 kilometers, the A321XLR will allow airlines to operate non-stop flights on routes that were previously impractical for single-aisle aircraft.

It also consumes significantly less fuel per seat than older-generation aircraft, making it a more environmentally friendly option. According to CNN, the Airbus “burns 30 percent less fuel per seat than previous-generation aircraft,” the now-combersome A321 NEO. Reduced fuel consumption also lowers airline operating costs, potentially leading to more competitive passenger fares. And because we “know” this design — it’s part of the A321 family — most of us will be familiar with the layout and space restrictions, so you’ll not get any huge unwelcome surprises.

This is all extremely exciting not just for aviation nerds but also for travelers looking to visit more off-the-beaten-track destinations. The aircraft will be able to connect cities that were previously inaccessible to single-aisle planes.

The Spanish flag carrier, Iberia, took delivery of the revolutionary aircraft in late October and wasted no time putting it to use. On November 13, Iberia’s inaugural A321XLR flight departed from Madrid-Barajas Airport, bound for Boston Logan International Airport.

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For Iberia, the A321XLR represents a strategic investment in its long-haul fleet. The airline plans to utilize the aircraft on routes between its Madrid hub and various destinations in the United States, including Boston and Washington, D.C. These routes, traditionally served by wide-body aircraft, will now be operated by the more fuel-efficient and cost-effective A321XLR.

Several other carriers have placed large orders for this cutting-edge aircraft, recognizing its potential to transform operations. United Airlines, American Airlines, JetBlue, and IndiGo (India’s largest low-cost carrier) will add the A321XLR to fleets as soon as possible.

All of this buzz translates to more direct flights on longer routes. JetBlue can fly the A321XLR from New York to London, and connections to many other major European hubs are also now possible. Cities such as Santiago in Chile and Buenos Aires will have better US southern connections; European airlines will be able to reach the Middle East and India; and from Asia, transpacific routes like Tokyo to San Francisco could be directly linked by the A321XLR.

There’s also a discussion about how the Airbus will help with over-tourism. This year, Matador reported that airlines such as Japan Air tried to tackle this problem by offering complimentary domestic flights to encourage travelers to explore lesser-visited destinations. The A321XLR could take the strain off overcrowded travel hubs, flying passengers directly to smaller destinations and redirecting the flow of tourists away from capitals that are currently struggling with high-season footfall.

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Why Is Overtourism Happening? Blame Capitalism.

Many years ago, Visit Utah created an advertising campaign many outlets and professionals have called everything from “a smash” to “wildly successful.” More specifically, the Office of Tourism bundled the state’s five National Parks, all within a three hour’s drive of each other, and dubbed them “The Mighty 5.” It placed ads in every major airport, ran commercials in all 50 states, and even promoted the parks in foreign markets.

The campaign worked, and that’s putting it modestly. In fact, “The Mighty 5” was an instant hit and soon attracted millions of visitors – and their tourism dollars. In 2023 alone, the five National Parks of Zion, Bryce, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands, and Arches welcomed nearly 11 million visitors. It set a new attendance record, and the National Park Service estimates that visitors to national park sites in Utah spurred $1.9 billion in direct spending the same year.

The campaign focused on picture-perfect shots of a family exploring Utah’s five national parks. Photo: Margaret.Wiktor/Shutterstock

Despite the financial gain, many local officials and residents – this writer included – have expressed a belief that the campaign may have worked too well. In peak season, the Mighty 5 are routinely overrun by visitors and borderline unvisitable, the crowds are so thick. Newly implemented reservation systems and permits for some of the more popular hikes and areas have eased the congestion a little. Still, with so many people wanting to see the Mighty 5 for themselves, the deluge of visitors is not only frustrating for everyone involved, but also threatens the very lands these popular parks are trying to protect.

“We did this to ourselves,” one tourism official recently told me.

We – not you. And that’s the royal we, as in “all of us.” Although each traveler contributes to the growing concern, damages, and frustrations of overtourism, the lion’s share of the blame belongs on good, ol’ fashioned capitalism. In an effort to boost our economies, share knowledge and cultures, and value experiences over things (which research shows makes us happier), most major cities, states, and entire countries have doubled down on growing tourism.

One reason why overtouris is happening can be attributed to average people having more discretionary spending. The Acropolis in Greece, 2023. Photo: Laurence Berger/Shutterstock

Utah isn’t the only place that has benefited economically. Over the last 20 years, international travel has more than doubled, according to the World Tourism Organization. These acute numbers are especially pronounced in places such as Italy, Thailand, Greece, small island states where visitors outnumber locals by as much as 20 to 1, and even in far-flung Antarctica. In heavily congested hot spots, overtourism results in wear and tear on buildings and the environment, community resentment (in spite of the economic uplift), and sharp price increases for energy, food, shelter, and more.

During a recent chat with one of my neighbors, we were talking about where our kids may live one day. She expressed that she loves living here, and wants her kids to be able to stay if they love it, too. “But how will my kids be able to afford a house here?” she asked, especially as the average home price in the state has increased by 200 percent since 2000, meaning home costs in Utah are rising higher than the national average. Although other factors contribute to driving up the cost of Utah housing, overtourism is certainly playing a part.

So why does overtourism happen? While capitalism is the notable catch-all, there are several factors that have led to a dramatic increase in tourism since the turn of the century.

Though capitalism is known for leaving some behind, it’s also really good at lifting a lot of people out of poverty. When that happens, the middle class grows, as has happened all over the world. That creates more disposable income for more people, and when coupled with modern society’s propensity to invest in experiences over things, that inevitably means people will cross borders in search of new experiences and new adventures. That’s the first big reason.

Bhutan is one of several countries that has introduced a tourism fee, designed to create income that can be spent countering the negative effects of overtourism. Photo: Vladmir Melnik/Shutterstock

Affordable air and cruise travel is another, both of which have made it more affordable than ever to see the world. This drop in pricing makes it even easier for people with more money to visit even more places. While hotels are being built at a record pace, there’s also a surge in short-term rentals, which have expanded overnight capacities to the places we want to visit.

Lastly, the internet, social media, and online bookings have made it easier than ever to see the outside world. We have literally become more globalized than ever before. Because of this, places such as Bhutan, Vietnam, Indonesia, and Utah have ensnared global travelers with their good looks and effective marketing. In that way, each of us got what we paid for.

So that’s what’s driving record numbers. But overtourism is really a lack of regulation and planning. When Utah, for instance, launched the “Mighty 5” campaign after the turn of the century, few would have predicted just how successful the camping would become. No one could have predicted that the above ingredients would combine with one another so well to create such high demand.

In many ways, we are still in the Wild West of global tourism. While some countries and communities are more capable than others when it comes to balancing the demands of lots of visitors, others are still figuring it out.

Visitors in line at Peru’s Machu Picchu. Photo: prosiaczeq/Shutterstock

To overcome these challenges, many destinations are charging visitors a day tax, such as Venice, Italy, and the entire country of Bhutan. Amsterdam banned the construction of new hotels. Dubrovnik capped the number of cruise ships allowed to dock at its ports each day. Barcelona limited short-term rentals. And protected lands and famous landmarks ranging from Yosemite National Park to Machu Picchu have imposed time-entries and reservation systems to even out the numbers.

In that light, maybe overtourism isn’t inherently a thing that must be totally avoided. Maybe it’s just a growing pain from which the travel industry will adapt and recover. And if growth is always better than decline, maybe these are good problems to have – problems that we can overcome, if history is any indication. Travel has changed wildly in the last 20 years, and if you look at the last 200 years, it’s clear humans have made massive strides in interconnectedness and cultural exchange.

Moving forward, I don’t believe any responsible traveler should feel guilty for traveling, or even apologize for it. There’s no need to forgive yourself. Instead, you can be a part of the solution to travel’s overtourism hurdle.

While none of us can prevent the onward march of capitalism, globalization (in this writer’s opinion, another good thing, in most contexts), or even the speed at which destinations are getting easier and easier to reach , each of us can do several things on our next adventure to limit the bumps we encounter along the road.

Visiting destinations in the off-season can result in a more peaceful, less crowded experience that helps create year-round income for local businesses, instead of crushing them with unmanageable levels of tourists in peak summer. Photo: Ashley Hadzopoulos/Shutterstock

First, know before you go. Understand what growing pains a destination is undergoing and how you might navigate those in a considerate manner. That may mean visiting in an off-peak season, or not treating residents and locals like wild animals that need to be photographed. Maybe that means doing a better job of respecting private property, as you would want others to respect your home. Maybe that means packing out your waste and leaving a place better than you found it. Maybe that means accepting that reservations are actually a good thing.

Travel isn’t going away. It will continue to grow. But together we can make it even better. As our planning gets better, so too will our experience. And that should be celebrated.

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Yamaguchi Is the Best Prefecture for the Great Japanese Road Trip

With his bald head, flowing black kimono, and youthful laughter, Kazuhiro Ohtani, the owner of Bettei Otozure ryokan in Yamaguchi, could pass for an abbot. But don’t let the monastic façade fool you: Ohtani’s one true religion is rock ‘n’ roll. He’s been to Fuji Rock (the largest outdoor music even in Japan) more times than he can count, and has worshiped at the altar of the full pantheon of guitar gods: Metallica, The Red Hot Chili Peppers, Guns N’ Roses, Motley Crüe — you name it. For Ohtani, the sound of satori, the Zen Buddhist mental state of illumination, is a face-melting guitar solo from John Frusciante or Van Halen.

At the ryokan’s lobby bar, Otani and I shared a bottle of Akkeshi, a peated whiskey from Hokkaido, while a Pantera soundtrack rumbles through the hinoki wood salon. Otani ordered a plate of fugu (pufferfish) sashimi and a round of IPAs from 365+1, a Yamaguchi craft brewery, to chase the whiskey. As I inwardly debated which is more dangerous — eating potentially lethal fugu or going round for round with Otani — it dawned on me that this man is a microcosm of Yamaguchi Prefecture itself: gentle and serene at first blush, but bubbling with mirth and a touch of chaos beneath the surface.

Photo: Yamaguchi Tourism

I visited Yamaguchi on my third trip to Japan, after visits to explore Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka left me eager for a taste of Japan’s countryside. I hail from Virginia, and a buddy in Tokyo made the case that Yamaguchi was the Old Dominion of Japan: the prefecture with the highest number of Japanese prime ministers, verdant rolling hills, and a healthy balance of rustic charm and urban sophistication. As a former history teacher, I was intrigued by Yamaguchi’s pivotal role in two watersheds in Japanese history: the rise of the Tokugawa Shogunate and the Meiji Restoration. My friend suggested renting a set of wheels in Yamaguchi City to see as much as possible of the prefecture, a land riddled with Medieval castle towns and framed by two seas.

A six-day road trip proved to indeed be the perfect introduction to Yamaguchi. Cutting through mountains and along the coasts of the Sea of Japan and the Seto Inland Sea, the route’s mountainside sake breweries, bustling fish markets, and kawara soba are as delightful as the views from the car window.

Day 1: Yamaguchi City

4.5 hours by Shinkansen train from Tokyo

Photo: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

Yamaguchi has excellent infrastructure — a byproduct of the many Japanese prime ministers born and raised in this prefecture. From Tokyo Station, catch the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Shin-Yamaguchi Station. The long ride is pleasant with a bento box, cold Sapparo, and views of villages and emerald-green rice paddies. Train tickets cost 20,000 yen (about $130). A trip to Yamaguchi can also be a nice addition if you plan to visit Hiroshima, only 38 min away by Shinkansen.

Yamaguchi City, the prefectural capital, is called the “Kyoto of the West” for its abundance of monasteries, temples, and Zen gardens. Explore geological wonders as ornate as a Gothic cathedral at Akiyoshido Caves, limestone caverns carved into the earth over millennia by trickling subterranean water. After spelunking, head to nearby Ohmine Shuzou, a boutique sake brewery where guests savor pours of crystalline rice nectar paired with patio views overlooking mountains and rice paddies. For an afternoon of serenity, stroll through the grounds of Jōei-ji, a Zen temple dating back to the Muromachi period (1336–1573). The gardens, designed by 15th-century calligraphy master and monk Sesshū Tōyō, are among Japan’s finest stone and sand masterpieces.

Almost as captivating are the 300-year-old gardens at Hotel Matsudaya, a charming inn in the Yuda Onsen district of Yamaguchi City. After a soothing onsen, sit by the gardens with a cup of tea as you contemplate the changing seasons and the ultimate impermanence of all existence.

Day 2: Hagi

1 hour by car from Yamaguchi City

Photo: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

Hagi, a historic port town on the Sea of Japan, may seem like a sleepy village today, but it once played an outsized role in two pivotal periods of Japanese history. In the 17th century, Hagi was a stronghold of the Mori clan, who vied with the Tokugawa for control of Japan. Although vanquished by the Tokugawa after a series of bloody battles, Hagi Castle remained a Mori bastion, and the town clung fiercely to samurai traditions even into the modern era. In the 19th century, Hagi avenged its defeat to the Tokugawa when the city became a revolutionary hotbed of the Meiji Restoration, a movement that dismantled the Shogunate and installed a pro-Western emperor over Japan.

Taro Miwa (pictured with author) and his work. Photo: Johnny Motley

Hagi’s celebrated pottery, known as hagi-yaki, is recognized by UNESCO as part of Japan’s cultural heritage. Coated with thick white glaze reminiscent of vanilla frosting, Hagi stoneware is instantly recognizable. The finest tea cups and plates from Hagi command prices worthy of a Sotheby’s auction, and the artwork embodies the ideal of wabi-sabi: beauty in imperfection. Taro Miwa is the current patriarch of a long dynasty of Hagi ceramicists. As a young man, Miwa sojourned in California, and he credits the sublime vistas of Yosemite National Park as his greatest artistic inspiration.

Photo: Johnny Motley

Rent a bike to soak in Hagi’s handsome avenues, gardens, and old samurai residences. Bike rentals are available at Hagi’s tourist information office near Hagi Meirin Gakusha, an erstwhile school converted into a museum on Yamaguchi’s history. Before setting off on your ride, fuel up with a bento box of karaage (Japanese-style fried chicken) and a glass of local sake at Restaurant Hagi Goyomi, located inside Hagi Meirin Gakusha. After a day of cardiovascular and intellectual stimulation, recharge at Hagi Bettei, a boutique hotel in the heart of Hagi.

Day 3: Nagato

30 minutes by car from Hagi

Photo: Johnny Motley

With a gentle river crisscrossed by footbridges, wooden buildings crowned with gleaming black tiles, and winding cobblestone alleyways, Nagato Yumoto Onsen looks like a Victorian painter’s fantasy of an idyllic Japanese village. Start your day with a coffee or matcha at one of Nagato’s many cozy cafes before rejuvenating body and soul at Onto Onsen, a 600-year-old geothermal bath on the banks of the Otozure River. Many onsens must heat or cool their water artificially, but Onto’s mineral-rich waters naturally bubble up from the earth at a delectable jacuzzi-like temperature.

Nagato is home to one of Yamaguchi’s most acclaimed pottery masters, Masahiro Sakakura, more widely known by his artistic nom-de-guerre, Shinbei. Visit the great artist’s studio to sip matcha from one of his cups, admire his ancient kiln, and marvel at the fire-hardened fruits of his muse.

Photo: Johnny Motley

Chicken farming has long been a major industry in Yamaguchi, and even Yamaguchi has some Japan’s finest yakitori, chicken morsels skewered on wooden sticks and charred to perfection over exceptionally hot charcoal. With its flowing beer taps, counterside service, and seductive whiffs of smoked meat, Yakitori Komori is like a Japanese take on a small-town barbecue joint in the Texas Hill Country. Wash down the succulent, smoky poultry with glasses of local sake or a beer from 365+1 Brewery, a craft brewery in Nagato Yumoto Onsen.

Photo: Bettei OtozurePhoto: Bettei Otozure

Bettei Otozure Ryokan blends the traditional charm of a ryokan with the luxury of a five-star western hotel. Rooms, adorned with artwork and polished wood, feature private outdoor onsens overlooking the forested mountains of Nagato. Bettei Otozure’s dining matches the opulence of the rooms, with Yamaguchi sake served in cups curated by the hotel’s owner, Otani. After dinner, grab a nightcap at THE BAR NAGATO, a treehouse bar across from the hotel with a commendable selection of rare Japanese whiskeys and local Nagato gin.

Day 4: Shimonoseki

1 hour by car from Nagato

Photo: Niradj/Shutterstock

From the misty mountains of Nagato, head west to Yamaguchi’s westernmost tip and the town of Shimonoseki. My only wish for my next visit to Shimonoseki is that medical technology advances to the point where I can carry two stomachs. Regional delicacies like tempura pufferfish and kawara soba (thin noodles charred on a clay tile) will forever haunt my dreams. Shinonoseki also has a large Korean community, and bulgogi and kimchi are as ubiquitous as ramen and udon.

Photo: Yamaguchi Tourism

To properly prepare the metabolism for a visit to Karato Market, consider a 24-hour fast followed by a high-intensity workout. A colorful carnival of sushi, live fish, and food stalls, Karato Market makes even Tsukiji Market in Tokyo seem modest. If you’re feeling adventurous, try a plate of fugu, coastal Yamaguchi’s most iconic food. Pufferfish is lethal if improperly prepared, but cases of poisoning are extremely rare, and Japanese law requires cooks to obtain a license to prepare it.

Photo: Johnny Motley

With a full stomach and joyful heart after a tour of Karato Market, wander up the oceanside promenade to Akama Shrine, a shrine dedicated to Antoku, a child emperor who drowned during a 12th-century sea battle. Overlooking the Kanmon Straits, the narrow passage of water separating the islands of Honshu and Kyushu, the hilltop shrine treats visitors to panoramic views of the ocean. When slumber beckons after a marathon of gobbling and swilling, unwind at Kaze no Umi, a hotel and onsen overlooking the sea.

Day 5: Yanai

2 hours by car from Shimonoseki

Photo: Johnny Motley

Drive east along the coast of the Seto Inland Sea to Yanai, a breezy seaside hamlet seemingly frozen in time from the 17th-century Edo Period. During the Tokugawa Shogunate, Yanai’s harbor bustled with sailors from Korea, Osaka, and Yokohama, and local merchants grew rich from maritime trade. The well-preserved machi-ya (merchant townhouses) lining Yanai’s streets harken back to past eras when Yanai was a fabulously wealthy entrepôt.

Yanai’s cobblestone streets and elegant architecture invite leisurely hours of wandering. As you admire the stately machi-ya, you’ll notice paper goldfish lanterns hanging above entrances. Goldfish have long been a symbol of Yanai, and visitors can make their own goldfish lanterns at Yanai Saizo.

If you’re willing to risk forever turning your taste buds against mass-produced soy sauces, stop in at Sagawa Soy Sauce Brewery. The master brewer at Sagawa, a family-owned business since 1830, treats shoyu production the way the head vintner at Château Mouton Rothschild approaches winemaking. Visitors can tour the hoary wooden fermentation vats before sampling gelato and confections infused with the silky, umami-laden ambrosia. An assortment of soy sauces are available for purchase, so cooks and gourmets are wise to save room in their suitcases.

Day 6: Iwakuni

45 minutes by car from Yanai

Photo: Yamaguchi Tourism

The charming town of Iwakuni is home to Yamaguchi’s most iconic postcard image: the Kintaikyo Bridge, an undulating wooden serpent spanning the Nishiki River. If you’re so inclined, crush a bottle or two of Dassai (an award-winning Yamaguchi sake) and then rent a traditional kimono from Orihime, a local clothing shop. Orihime offers a large selection of kimonos in various designs, sizes, and colors, and tailors are on hand to assist in properly tying the complex garment.

Photo: Johnny Motley

Kimono-clad, merry with sake, and feeling as grand as a shogun, stroll across the Kintaikyo Bridge to the parks and comely neighborhoods on the other side of the Nishiki River. Near the bridgehead, you’ll find an ice cream stand offering flavors that make Baskin Robbins seem like a nursing home cafeteria. Try the summer mikan icecream — the bright orange orbs, similar to a tangerine but sweeter, are emblematic of Yamaguchi.

Conclude your Yamaguchi road trip with a kaiseki dinner and a well-deserved soak in the onsens Iwakuni International Kanko Hotel. The hot baths, using medicinal water pumped from deep in the ground, overlook the Nikishi River, and at night the stars over Kintaikyo Bridge are vivid enough to inspire impromptu haiku verses.

Onward from Yamaguchi

For those keen to continue traveling after road-tripping through Yamaguchi, the prefecture is a convenient launching point to Korea and Kyushu, the island south of Honshu. From Shimonoseki, the yatai stalls and gastronomic splendor of Fukuoka, Kyushu’s largest city, are only an hour’s drive away. Multiple ferry services from the port of Shimonoseki offer trips to Busan, Korea, a city within easy reach of Seoul.

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The Way You Buy Outdoor and Travel Gear Is Changing for the Better

Emme Hayes wasn’t happy with the “buy, use, and toss” flow of gear in the outdoor apparel industry. With constant pressure from brands and social media to buy the latest and greatest gear, the industry she loves and has worked in for much of her life wasn’t exactly living up to her – or its – values. Footwear and clothing account for some 8 percent of total carbon emissions, and though gear brands love to tout mantras of ever-increasing sustainability, buying new stuff constantly is never going to be as sustainable as using what you have for longer, and repurposing it when you’re done. In 2021, the climate activist and former apparel designer decided to do something about it, founding the digital platform Articles in Common as a marketplace for recreators to repurpose their outdoors gear and clothing to keep it out of landfills.

“I was an avid backpacker spending a lot of time in the Sierras, I’ve done a bit of guiding, and I was also in the apparel industry,” Hayes says. “It is an extremely wasteful industry, and I felt like the way that it was going, it doesn’t make sense from a consumer standpoint – it’s not circular in any way, and it’s not easy for people to [repurpose their gear].”

Emme Hayes on the High Sierra Trail. Photo courtesy Emme Hayes

The second-hand market is a $1 billion industry. Historically, however, selling used outdoor gear has been incredibly decentralized, making it difficult for consumers to repurpose their stuff. Many communities also lack a good place to buy used gear. Thrift stores don’t dependably have quality gear, and the companies that offer platforms to buy and sell used items tend to prioritize – sometimes with exclusivity – their own products at the expense of customer convenience.

Until Articles in Common, Hayes says, “There wasn’t a central location online that made it easy for people to buy and sell used gear. From a consumer perspective, I wasn’t seeing what I thought I should be seeing the the outdoor industry from outdoor brands. There is a big push for resale, but it’s not with the consumer in mind. Realistically, it just doesn’t make sense for each brand to have their own resale section, because what person only buys Patagonia, or The North Face, or whoever?”

Hayes’ goal became to create an independent marketplace and scale it to be industry-wide, giving recreators the ability to sell gear from any brand to anyone, anywhere. Three years in, the company may be on the cusp of its moment of impact – recent figures from the Outdoor Industry Association show that some 87 percent of recreators want to get outdoors in a more sustainable manner, if only they could do so conveniently.

What problem is Articles in Common addressing?

Screenshot taken from Articles in Common website

“We’ve been conditioned by outdoor brands that we need the latest and greatest gear to do whatever we want to do outside, and that mentality has to change in order for the outdoor industry to truly become a sustainable, climate-friendly industry,” Hayes says.

Despite this, few industries have been as vocal in support of sustainability and eco-friendly business practices as the outdoor industry. Patagonia stakes its entire mission statement on the cause, “We’re in business to save our home planet,” and even many smaller outdoor gear brands like Nemo and Cotopaxi are generating fanfare and press coverage as they make efforts towards circular business practices.

These efforts have hardly slowed consumer spending on new outdoor gear, which stood at $27.5 billion in 2023, down three percent from 2022. The slight decline in year-over-year revenue is largely attributed to recreators being stocked, rather than people buying used gear instead.

Via the Articles in Common website, users can sign up with their email address to be a member of the platform. Then, they have the ability to sell their used gear directly to Articles in Common, which will resell the gear on its website. This itself makes the process convenient, as sellers don’t have to commission their piece and then wait around for someone to buy it before getting paid.

The platform goes further by enabling users to repair used gear such as climbing shoes with a process as simple as dropping the shoes at their local climbing gym. For gear that’s past its useful life, the platform connects members to options for recycling or repurposing.

The process of selling your gear is painstakingly easy. Once Articles in Common approves the purchase of a piece of gear, it provides a shipping label for the user to send it to them at no cost.

Gear available on the platform is as varied as the recreators in the outdoors. At the time of writing, the website lists a pair of Rossignol skis next to a set of tent stakes and a kids down jacket from Patagonia. The “Latest Drop” section showcases gear just listed on the site. The company does its best to maintain stock of gear for dogs, and always has a vast selection of outdoor- and climate-centric books for sale. Products from women of color and other marginalized groups are featured prominently.

Articles in Common is a company built around impact

Climbing shoe waste. Photo courtesy Articles in Common

Hayes spearheaded an effort to acquire used climbing shoes from gyms across the country who otherwise would toss their rental fleets into the trash once the soles degraded past a certain point.

“The first donation that we got was over 500 pounds of climbing shoes,” Hayes says. “And that’s one gym in LA. If you multiply that by all climbing gyms that have exploded across the US, that’s a lot of shoes.”

The ReSole Project also encourages climbers to resole their climbing shoes at their local climbing gym, and to push the gyms across California to resole their shoes rather than disposing of them.

“We’re working to grow this across California and eventually across different climbing franchises,” Hayes says.

Articles in Common takes its activism into communities as well, particularly in its hometown of Los Angeles. Pop-ups at gyms and markets happen on occassion and can be tracked on the company’s Events page. It hosts workshops on topics like “ultralight backpacking” skills and hosts a blog full of actionable content to help readers better engage with sustainable practices in the outdoors.

“There’s a different way of approaching the outdoors,” Hayes says. “It doesn’t have to be about conquering the next summit or checking the next thing off your list. Look at what’s happened to Mt. Everest. Let’s make it about having as little impact as possible.”

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