Matador Network's Blog, page 89

Yamaguchi Is the Best Prefecture for the Great Japanese Road Trip

With his bald head, flowing black kimono, and youthful laughter, Kazuhiro Ohtani, the owner of Bettei Otozure ryokan in Yamaguchi, could pass for an abbot. But don’t let the monastic façade fool you: Ohtani’s one true religion is rock ‘n’ roll. He’s been to Fuji Rock (the largest outdoor music even in Japan) more times than he can count, and has worshiped at the altar of the full pantheon of guitar gods: Metallica, The Red Hot Chili Peppers, Guns N’ Roses, Motley Crüe — you name it. For Ohtani, the sound of satori, the Zen Buddhist mental state of illumination, is a face-melting guitar solo from John Frusciante or Van Halen.

At the ryokan’s lobby bar, Otani and I shared a bottle of Akkeshi, a peated whiskey from Hokkaido, while a Pantera soundtrack rumbles through the hinoki wood salon. Otani ordered a plate of fugu (pufferfish) sashimi and a round of IPAs from 365+1, a Yamaguchi craft brewery, to chase the whiskey. As I inwardly debated which is more dangerous — eating potentially lethal fugu or going round for round with Otani — it dawned on me that this man is a microcosm of Yamaguchi Prefecture itself: gentle and serene at first blush, but bubbling with mirth and a touch of chaos beneath the surface.

Photo: Yamaguchi Tourism

I visited Yamaguchi on my third trip to Japan, after visits to explore Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka left me eager for a taste of Japan’s countryside. I hail from Virginia, and a buddy in Tokyo made the case that Yamaguchi was the Old Dominion of Japan: the prefecture with the highest number of Japanese prime ministers, verdant rolling hills, and a healthy balance of rustic charm and urban sophistication. As a former history teacher, I was intrigued by Yamaguchi’s pivotal role in two watersheds in Japanese history: the rise of the Tokugawa Shogunate and the Meiji Restoration. My friend suggested renting a set of wheels in Yamaguchi City to see as much as possible of the prefecture, a land riddled with Medieval castle towns and framed by two seas.

A six-day road trip proved to indeed be the perfect introduction to Yamaguchi. Cutting through mountains and along the coasts of the Sea of Japan and the Seto Inland Sea, the route’s mountainside sake breweries, bustling fish markets, and kawara soba are as delightful as the views from the car window.

Day 1: Yamaguchi City

4.5 hours by Shinkansen train from Tokyo

Photo: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

Yamaguchi has excellent infrastructure — a byproduct of the many Japanese prime ministers born and raised in this prefecture. From Tokyo Station, catch the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Shin-Yamaguchi Station. The long ride is pleasant with a bento box, cold Sapparo, and views of villages and emerald-green rice paddies. Train tickets cost 20,000 yen (about $130). A trip to Yamaguchi can also be a nice addition if you plan to visit Hiroshima, only 38 min away by Shinkansen.

Yamaguchi City, the prefectural capital, is called the “Kyoto of the West” for its abundance of monasteries, temples, and Zen gardens. Explore geological wonders as ornate as a Gothic cathedral at Akiyoshido Caves, limestone caverns carved into the earth over millennia by trickling subterranean water. After spelunking, head to nearby Ohmine Shuzou, a boutique sake brewery where guests savor pours of crystalline rice nectar paired with patio views overlooking mountains and rice paddies. For an afternoon of serenity, stroll through the grounds of Jōei-ji, a Zen temple dating back to the Muromachi period (1336–1573). The gardens, designed by 15th-century calligraphy master and monk Sesshū Tōyō, are among Japan’s finest stone and sand masterpieces.

Almost as captivating are the 300-year-old gardens at Hotel Matsudaya, a charming inn in the Yuda Onsen district of Yamaguchi City. After a soothing onsen, sit by the gardens with a cup of tea as you contemplate the changing seasons and the ultimate impermanence of all existence.

Day 2: Hagi

1 hour by car from Yamaguchi City

Photo: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

Hagi, a historic port town on the Sea of Japan, may seem like a sleepy village today, but it once played an outsized role in two pivotal periods of Japanese history. In the 17th century, Hagi was a stronghold of the Mori clan, who vied with the Tokugawa for control of Japan. Although vanquished by the Tokugawa after a series of bloody battles, Hagi Castle remained a Mori bastion, and the town clung fiercely to samurai traditions even into the modern era. In the 19th century, Hagi avenged its defeat to the Tokugawa when the city became a revolutionary hotbed of the Meiji Restoration, a movement that dismantled the Shogunate and installed a pro-Western emperor over Japan.

Taro Miwa (pictured with author) and his work. Photo: Johnny Motley

Hagi’s celebrated pottery, known as hagi-yaki, is recognized by UNESCO as part of Japan’s cultural heritage. Coated with thick white glaze reminiscent of vanilla frosting, Hagi stoneware is instantly recognizable. The finest tea cups and plates from Hagi command prices worthy of a Sotheby’s auction, and the artwork embodies the ideal of wabi-sabi: beauty in imperfection. Taro Miwa is the current patriarch of a long dynasty of Hagi ceramicists. As a young man, Miwa sojourned in California, and he credits the sublime vistas of Yosemite National Park as his greatest artistic inspiration.

Photo: Johnny Motley

Rent a bike to soak in Hagi’s handsome avenues, gardens, and old samurai residences. Bike rentals are available at Hagi’s tourist information office near Hagi Meirin Gakusha, an erstwhile school converted into a museum on Yamaguchi’s history. Before setting off on your ride, fuel up with a bento box of karaage (Japanese-style fried chicken) and a glass of local sake at Restaurant Hagi Goyomi, located inside Hagi Meirin Gakusha. After a day of cardiovascular and intellectual stimulation, recharge at Hagi Bettei, a boutique hotel in the heart of Hagi.

Day 3: Nagato

30 minutes by car from Hagi

Photo: Johnny Motley

With a gentle river crisscrossed by footbridges, wooden buildings crowned with gleaming black tiles, and winding cobblestone alleyways, Nagato Yumoto Onsen looks like a Victorian painter’s fantasy of an idyllic Japanese village. Start your day with a coffee or matcha at one of Nagato’s many cozy cafes before rejuvenating body and soul at Onto Onsen, a 600-year-old geothermal bath on the banks of the Otozure River. Many onsens must heat or cool their water artificially, but Onto’s mineral-rich waters naturally bubble up from the earth at a delectable jacuzzi-like temperature.

Nagato is home to one of Yamaguchi’s most acclaimed pottery masters, Masahiro Sakakura, more widely known by his artistic nom-de-guerre, Shinbei. Visit the great artist’s studio to sip matcha from one of his cups, admire his ancient kiln, and marvel at the fire-hardened fruits of his muse.

Photo: Johnny Motley

Chicken farming has long been a major industry in Yamaguchi, and even Yamaguchi has some Japan’s finest yakitori, chicken morsels skewered on wooden sticks and charred to perfection over exceptionally hot charcoal. With its flowing beer taps, counterside service, and seductive whiffs of smoked meat, Yakitori Komori is like a Japanese take on a small-town barbecue joint in the Texas Hill Country. Wash down the succulent, smoky poultry with glasses of local sake or a beer from 365+1 Brewery, a craft brewery in Nagato Yumoto Onsen.

Photo: Bettei OtozurePhoto: Bettei Otozure

Bettei Otozure Ryokan blends the traditional charm of a ryokan with the luxury of a five-star western hotel. Rooms, adorned with artwork and polished wood, feature private outdoor onsens overlooking the forested mountains of Nagato. Bettei Otozure’s dining matches the opulence of the rooms, with Yamaguchi sake served in cups curated by the hotel’s owner, Otani. After dinner, grab a nightcap at THE BAR NAGATO, a treehouse bar across from the hotel with a commendable selection of rare Japanese whiskeys and local Nagato gin.

Day 4: Shimonoseki

1 hour by car from Nagato

Photo: Niradj/Shutterstock

From the misty mountains of Nagato, head west to Yamaguchi’s westernmost tip and the town of Shimonoseki. My only wish for my next visit to Shimonoseki is that medical technology advances to the point where I can carry two stomachs. Regional delicacies like tempura pufferfish and kawara soba (thin noodles charred on a clay tile) will forever haunt my dreams. Shinonoseki also has a large Korean community, and bulgogi and kimchi are as ubiquitous as ramen and udon.

Photo: Yamaguchi Tourism

To properly prepare the metabolism for a visit to Karato Market, consider a 24-hour fast followed by a high-intensity workout. A colorful carnival of sushi, live fish, and food stalls, Karato Market makes even Tsukiji Market in Tokyo seem modest. If you’re feeling adventurous, try a plate of fugu, coastal Yamaguchi’s most iconic food. Pufferfish is lethal if improperly prepared, but cases of poisoning are extremely rare, and Japanese law requires cooks to obtain a license to prepare it.

Photo: Johnny Motley

With a full stomach and joyful heart after a tour of Karato Market, wander up the oceanside promenade to Akama Shrine, a shrine dedicated to Antoku, a child emperor who drowned during a 12th-century sea battle. Overlooking the Kanmon Straits, the narrow passage of water separating the islands of Honshu and Kyushu, the hilltop shrine treats visitors to panoramic views of the ocean. When slumber beckons after a marathon of gobbling and swilling, unwind at Kaze no Umi, a hotel and onsen overlooking the sea.

Day 5: Yanai

2 hours by car from Shimonoseki

Photo: Johnny Motley

Drive east along the coast of the Seto Inland Sea to Yanai, a breezy seaside hamlet seemingly frozen in time from the 17th-century Edo Period. During the Tokugawa Shogunate, Yanai’s harbor bustled with sailors from Korea, Osaka, and Yokohama, and local merchants grew rich from maritime trade. The well-preserved machi-ya (merchant townhouses) lining Yanai’s streets harken back to past eras when Yanai was a fabulously wealthy entrepôt.

Yanai’s cobblestone streets and elegant architecture invite leisurely hours of wandering. As you admire the stately machi-ya, you’ll notice paper goldfish lanterns hanging above entrances. Goldfish have long been a symbol of Yanai, and visitors can make their own goldfish lanterns at Yanai Saizo.

If you’re willing to risk forever turning your taste buds against mass-produced soy sauces, stop in at Sagawa Soy Sauce Brewery. The master brewer at Sagawa, a family-owned business since 1830, treats shoyu production the way the head vintner at Château Mouton Rothschild approaches winemaking. Visitors can tour the hoary wooden fermentation vats before sampling gelato and confections infused with the silky, umami-laden ambrosia. An assortment of soy sauces are available for purchase, so cooks and gourmets are wise to save room in their suitcases.

Day 6: Iwakuni

45 minutes by car from Yanai

Photo: Yamaguchi Tourism

The charming town of Iwakuni is home to Yamaguchi’s most iconic postcard image: the Kintaikyo Bridge, an undulating wooden serpent spanning the Nishiki River. If you’re so inclined, crush a bottle or two of Dassai (an award-winning Yamaguchi sake) and then rent a traditional kimono from Orihime, a local clothing shop. Orihime offers a large selection of kimonos in various designs, sizes, and colors, and tailors are on hand to assist in properly tying the complex garment.

Photo: Johnny Motley

Kimono-clad, merry with sake, and feeling as grand as a shogun, stroll across the Kintaikyo Bridge to the parks and comely neighborhoods on the other side of the Nishiki River. Near the bridgehead, you’ll find an ice cream stand offering flavors that make Baskin Robbins seem like a nursing home cafeteria. Try the summer mikan icecream — the bright orange orbs, similar to a tangerine but sweeter, are emblematic of Yamaguchi.

Conclude your Yamaguchi road trip with a kaiseki dinner and a well-deserved soak in the onsens Iwakuni International Kanko Hotel. The hot baths, using medicinal water pumped from deep in the ground, overlook the Nikishi River, and at night the stars over Kintaikyo Bridge are vivid enough to inspire impromptu haiku verses.

Onward from Yamaguchi

For those keen to continue traveling after road-tripping through Yamaguchi, the prefecture is a convenient launching point to Korea and Kyushu, the island south of Honshu. From Shimonoseki, the yatai stalls and gastronomic splendor of Fukuoka, Kyushu’s largest city, are only an hour’s drive away. Multiple ferry services from the port of Shimonoseki offer trips to Busan, Korea, a city within easy reach of Seoul.

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The Way You Buy Outdoor and Travel Gear Is Changing for the Better

Emme Hayes wasn’t happy with the “buy, use, and toss” flow of gear in the outdoor apparel industry. With constant pressure from brands and social media to buy the latest and greatest gear, the industry she loves and has worked in for much of her life wasn’t exactly living up to her – or its – values. Footwear and clothing account for some 8 percent of total carbon emissions, and though gear brands love to tout mantras of ever-increasing sustainability, buying new stuff constantly is never going to be as sustainable as using what you have for longer, and repurposing it when you’re done. In 2021, the climate activist and former apparel designer decided to do something about it, founding the digital platform Articles in Common as a marketplace for recreators to repurpose their outdoors gear and clothing to keep it out of landfills.

“I was an avid backpacker spending a lot of time in the Sierras, I’ve done a bit of guiding, and I was also in the apparel industry,” Hayes says. “It is an extremely wasteful industry, and I felt like the way that it was going, it doesn’t make sense from a consumer standpoint – it’s not circular in any way, and it’s not easy for people to [repurpose their gear].”

Emme Hayes on the High Sierra Trail. Photo courtesy Emme Hayes

The second-hand market is a $1 billion industry. Historically, however, selling used outdoor gear has been incredibly decentralized, making it difficult for consumers to repurpose their stuff. Many communities also lack a good place to buy used gear. Thrift stores don’t dependably have quality gear, and the companies that offer platforms to buy and sell used items tend to prioritize – sometimes with exclusivity – their own products at the expense of customer convenience.

Until Articles in Common, Hayes says, “There wasn’t a central location online that made it easy for people to buy and sell used gear. From a consumer perspective, I wasn’t seeing what I thought I should be seeing the the outdoor industry from outdoor brands. There is a big push for resale, but it’s not with the consumer in mind. Realistically, it just doesn’t make sense for each brand to have their own resale section, because what person only buys Patagonia, or The North Face, or whoever?”

Hayes’ goal became to create an independent marketplace and scale it to be industry-wide, giving recreators the ability to sell gear from any brand to anyone, anywhere. Three years in, the company may be on the cusp of its moment of impact – recent figures from the Outdoor Industry Association show that some 87 percent of recreators want to get outdoors in a more sustainable manner, if only they could do so conveniently.

What problem is Articles in Common addressing?

Screenshot taken from Articles in Common website

“We’ve been conditioned by outdoor brands that we need the latest and greatest gear to do whatever we want to do outside, and that mentality has to change in order for the outdoor industry to truly become a sustainable, climate-friendly industry,” Hayes says.

Despite this, few industries have been as vocal in support of sustainability and eco-friendly business practices as the outdoor industry. Patagonia stakes its entire mission statement on the cause, “We’re in business to save our home planet,” and even many smaller outdoor gear brands like Nemo and Cotopaxi are generating fanfare and press coverage as they make efforts towards circular business practices.

These efforts have hardly slowed consumer spending on new outdoor gear, which stood at $27.5 billion in 2023, down three percent from 2022. The slight decline in year-over-year revenue is largely attributed to recreators being stocked, rather than people buying used gear instead.

Via the Articles in Common website, users can sign up with their email address to be a member of the platform. Then, they have the ability to sell their used gear directly to Articles in Common, which will resell the gear on its website. This itself makes the process convenient, as sellers don’t have to commission their piece and then wait around for someone to buy it before getting paid.

The platform goes further by enabling users to repair used gear such as climbing shoes with a process as simple as dropping the shoes at their local climbing gym. For gear that’s past its useful life, the platform connects members to options for recycling or repurposing.

The process of selling your gear is painstakingly easy. Once Articles in Common approves the purchase of a piece of gear, it provides a shipping label for the user to send it to them at no cost.

Gear available on the platform is as varied as the recreators in the outdoors. At the time of writing, the website lists a pair of Rossignol skis next to a set of tent stakes and a kids down jacket from Patagonia. The “Latest Drop” section showcases gear just listed on the site. The company does its best to maintain stock of gear for dogs, and always has a vast selection of outdoor- and climate-centric books for sale. Products from women of color and other marginalized groups are featured prominently.

Articles in Common is a company built around impact

Climbing shoe waste. Photo courtesy Articles in Common

Hayes spearheaded an effort to acquire used climbing shoes from gyms across the country who otherwise would toss their rental fleets into the trash once the soles degraded past a certain point.

“The first donation that we got was over 500 pounds of climbing shoes,” Hayes says. “And that’s one gym in LA. If you multiply that by all climbing gyms that have exploded across the US, that’s a lot of shoes.”

The ReSole Project also encourages climbers to resole their climbing shoes at their local climbing gym, and to push the gyms across California to resole their shoes rather than disposing of them.

“We’re working to grow this across California and eventually across different climbing franchises,” Hayes says.

Articles in Common takes its activism into communities as well, particularly in its hometown of Los Angeles. Pop-ups at gyms and markets happen on occassion and can be tracked on the company’s Events page. It hosts workshops on topics like “ultralight backpacking” skills and hosts a blog full of actionable content to help readers better engage with sustainable practices in the outdoors.

“There’s a different way of approaching the outdoors,” Hayes says. “It doesn’t have to be about conquering the next summit or checking the next thing off your list. Look at what’s happened to Mt. Everest. Let’s make it about having as little impact as possible.”

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Priceline Is Giving Up to 99% Off Travel Deals to Its Email Subscribers

If you’re in travel planning mode for 2025, Priceline might be able to help you secure some outrageous savings with its biggest sale of the year over the course of the month. Priceline offers a variety of deals to save on flights, hotels, rental cars, cruises, and vacation packages. However, the biggest savings are reserved for those who sign up for Priceline’s email list — some lucky subscribers could snag a whopping 99 percent discount on their next vacation. Priceline will be staggering its holiday savings in three stages from now onto Travel Tuesday (December 3, the Tuesday after Cyber Monday and Black Friday) and through December.

The first wave of sales comes with its mystery coupons. You must sign up for Priceline’s email list before November 25 at 11:59 PM EST.

On November 26 and December 1, Priceline will send mystery coupons to its email subscribers. These coupons hold the potential for incredible savings — 8,000 lucky recipients will score a staggering 99 percent off their next trip, while 12,000 will get a respectable 50 percent off, and another 20,000 will snag a still-impressive 25 percent discount. Everyone else on the email list will receive a 10 percent off coupon, ensuring everyone gets a piece of the savings pie.

Priceline will begin its first-ever “10 Days of Deals” on November 20. A new deal will be unlocked each day, offering deep discounts on specific travel experiences. Here’s a sneak peek at some of the highlights:

Photo: Denis Moskvinov/Shutterstock

Day 1 (Nov 20): Save 20 percent or more on coastal escapes to destinations like Hawai’i and Puerto Rico. Plus, score an extra $30 off select hotels in these locations with code BEACHBREAK30.

Day 2 (Nov 21): Priceline Experiences offers 15 percent off on tours and activities. Think ziplining at Niagara Falls or exploring the iconic Wembley Stadium in England. Use code EXPERIENCES15 to redeem your discount.

Day 3 (Nov 22): Calling all winter sports enthusiasts. Save 25 percent or more on top ski destinations and enjoy an extra $25 off select hotels with code SKIADVENTURE25.

Day 4 (Nov 23): Let Priceline’s AI travel assistant, Penny, surprise you with the deal of the day.

Day 5 (Nov 24): Enjoy up to 45 percent off Extended Stay America hotels for your longer trips.

Day 6 (Nov 25): Fly away with WestJet deals starting from just $99.

Photo: Skyshark Media/Shutterstock

Day 7 (Nov 26): Make a booking with Royal Caribbean and snag up to $3,000 in cruise cash to spend on board.

Day 8 (Nov 27): Road trip ready? Score 20 percent off Budget & Avis car rentals or save an extra $15 on Rental Car Express Deals.

Day 9 (Nov 28): Save 30 percent or more on four and five-star all-inclusive resorts in Mexico and the Caribbean when you bundle your flight and hotel. Plus, get an extra $250 off with code BFBUNDLES.

Photo: Kelly vanDellen/Shutterstock

Day 10 (Nov 29): Explore cities like New Orleans, Boston, Houston, and Las Vegas with 25 percent off hotels. Use code CITYVIBES15 for an extra 15 percent off select hotels.

To round this wild 10 days of savings off, from November 20 to 29, Priceline is giving away a dream Disney vacation. Enter for a chance to win a three-night stay at a Disney Deluxe Resort Hotel, four four-day Park Hopper tickets, and a $400 Disney Gift Card. No purchase is necessary.

The deals don’t end with the “10 Days of Deals.” Priceline’s Black Friday sale extends through the weekend of November 30 to December 1, with further markdowns on hotels, rental cars, and cruises.

Cyber Monday brings its own set of flash deals, including discounts on hotels, rental car express deals, and hotel express deals.

Spend $500 on hotels between 8 AM and 12 PM EST and save $100 with code XTRA100.From 12 PM to 4 PM EST, spend $275 on Rental Car Express Deals® and save $25 with code CMRENTALS25. Between 4 PM and 8 PM EST, save 20 percent on any Hotel Express Deals® (up to $50) with code SAVE20.

Travel Tuesday offers even more savings. Get 15 percent off any Hotel Express Deals® (up to $50) with code TRAVELTUE15. Save up to 20 percent on rental cars, score up to $2,000 in cruise cash, and bundle your flight and hotel to save 30 percent on your next vacation.

Priceline’s Season of Savings kicks off on December 4, offering a full month of additional travel deals to stretch your holiday budget even further. For a complete look at all the incredible offers, head over to Priceline.com or download the Priceline app and start planning your dream getaway for 2025.

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The Ultimate Ski Race Experience: Partying at the Val D’Isère FIS World Cup

Imagine this: You arrive in the storied French mountain town of Val d’Isère to find the narrow streets filled with flags from around the world. Music is blasting and the scent of piping-hot pastries and fresh waffles slung from food trucks makes your mouth water as you follow the buzzing crowd to the bottom of “La Face de Bellevarde,” the mountain’s most iconic black-diamond ski run. You’re at one of the liveliest events in skiing, in a town whose history of ripping down the slopes goes way back. It’s called the Critérium de la Première Neige, and it’s the annual official opening of France’s events within the biggest ski event in the world.

Val d’Isère is a commune and ski resort in the French Alps, near the border with Italy. Most people reach it by catching a shuttle from Geneva or taking a train from Paris to the Bourg-Saint-Maurice station, about 30 minutes from the mountain. It’s one of Europe’s premier ski resorts and transforms into a high-speed playground every December, when it hosts several events of the prestigious FIS Alpine Ski World Cup, often just called the FIS World Cup.

During the event, you don’t have to have pro-level ski skills to watch the world’s top competitors charge down legendary slopes (sometimes from just a few feet away) while you soak in the electric, festive atmosphere. But attending the FIS World Cup in Val d’Isère isn’t just about spectating. It’s an immersive experience that combines the thrill of world-class competition with the elegance of France’s alpine style and après-ski indulgence.

From securing the best viewing spots to knowing where to head for the top après-ski experiences, here’s what to know if you’re thinking about planning a ski trip that combines adrenaline-pumping competition and classic European ski culture.

Val d’Isère’s best FIS World Cup viewing spots

The bottom of the race course offers excellent FIS World Cup views for the lowest price. Photo: Katie Botwin

The Val d’Isère Ski World Cup isn’t just about witnessing fast, fearless athletes: it’s about sharing the excitement and energy of the crowd as you share the success and failures of the best skiers in the world. So to truly enjoy the experience, you’ll want to be in the heart of the action.

There are several prime viewing spots for the races, only some of which have a fee. You only need a ticket to access select viewing areas, but you can see the races from around the resort without paying.

The Finish Line of the Face de Bellevarde

Between Val d’Isère and Tignes (a connected resort with which it shares a ski pass to create Tignes-Val d’Isère), there are more than 150 trails for all ability levels. But the Face de Bellevarde is the slope to know, as the iconic run is the stage for some of the most thrilling events of the FIS World Cup in France. The best way to feel the raw intensity of the races is to get as close to the finish line as possible. You’ll be right there as racers hurtle toward the line, pushing the limits of speed and skill. Deafening cheers will bring each gravity-defying turn to a head until athletes cross the finish line. It’s standing room only, and the least expensive option, at 10 euros (about $10) per day.

 

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Free slopeside viewing areas

If you’re after a more relaxed experience, several free viewing areas around the resort offer a fantastic view of the course. If you hike up above the finish line (or ski down), you’ll be able to see the racers in various stages of competition. You need a ski lift ticket to access the lifts, but there’s no extra fee to just hang out and watch the FIS events from afar if you’re skiing at the resort. Watching from just above the start line is a popular spot.
VIP Access

For those seeking a more exclusive and luxurious experience, consider purchasing VIP access to the event. With the 150 euro (about $159) basic VIP ticket, you get access to prime viewing spots, access to exclusive lounges where you can mix with VIPs and top athletes, and unlimited beer, wine, and soft drinks. But if you’re really looking to watch the FIS World Cup in style, VIP package levels go up to 19,000 euros (about $20,100) for a private space that can hold 40 people.
Après-ski during the FIS World Cup

Photo: oneinchpunch/Shutterstock

After the races – and sometimes during – it’s time for après-ski. Val d’Isère’s après-ski scene is legendary, and for good reason. It’s not just just about the drinks, but also the atmosphere, the music, and the perfect blend of elevated French après-ski culture (think: quality food and drink), mixed with plenty of skiers looking to party. Whether you’re celebrating with fellow fans or rubbing shoulders with pros, these are the places to be.
La Folie Douce

 

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For a high-end, European discotheque après experience, make your way to La Folie Douce. The on-mountain venue offers stunning views with an infectious energy and a party atmosphere unlike anywhere else at the resort. Expect cocktails and champagne with DJs, live performances, and dancers. It’s an après-ski experience that’s as much about traditional après-ski as it is the actual party. Pro tip: Drink a lot of water before you go, because the drinks are known to be strong (and sometimes don’t stop coming).

Le Coin des Amis

In the middle of the village, Coin des Amis Bar is a vibrant après-ski spot with a casual vibe compared to sit-down restaurants. It’s very laid-back and an ideal place to walk up and grab a drink, chat with friends, and enjoy music without committing to staying for hours or having full table service. It’s a good spot from which to appreciate the old-world charm of the surrounding buildings while you relax over a drink or two.
Café Bellevarde

 

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For those looking to soak in a more traditional après-ski atmosphere, Café Bellevarde offers a cozy, rustic setting with wooden tables, deckside dining, and a menu of classics like French confit de boeuf and charcuterie boards. It’s also on the hill, close to the top of the Olympic Cable Car. You may want to reserve a table, as it’s a popular spot to unwind with a drink while taking in the mountain views.

Where to stay during the Val d’Isère FIS World Cup events

The town of Val d’Isère at night. Photo: ventdusud/Shutterstock

For guests looking for a front-row seat to all the Ski World Cup action, Club Med Val d’Isère has excellent proximity to both the slopes and the excitement of the various associated events. It’s ski-in, ski-out, so guests have easy access to lifts while also being close enough to run back to the room or change their boots between races. It’s a great choice for people who hate long walks in ski boots or don’t want to wait for ski shuttle transfers.

It’s an all-inclusive ski resort, so rates include dining, entertainment, and daily après-ski hours. It’s not cheap, with a starting winter rate around $850 per night. But that includes some otherwise-pricey perks, like daily ski lessons, lift tickets, and guided snowshoe hikes to a yurt for après-ski drinks and snacks.

Club Med Val d’Isère: La Legettaz, 73150 Val-d’Isère, France

Club Med Val d’Isère is as close to the slopes as you can get without sleeping on snow. Photo: Katie Botwin

For a lower-cost place to store your skis at night, consider Hôtel les Lorès. It’s a super-simple hotel just steps from the center of the village with a backpacker-hostel-meets-Swiss-chalet vibe. The rooms are fairly unadorned, but they all have private bathrooms, and there’s an on-site restaurant for when you don’t feel like leaving again after a lively day on the hill. Better still, rooms start as low as 145 euros (about $149) per night in the winter.

Hôtel les Lorès: Les Lorès, 498 Av. du Prariond, 73150 Val-d’Isère, France

If you’re traveling with a big group, the cost of separate rooms may add up pretty quickly. In that case, you may be better off renting an apartment. Les Equinoxes has several different apartment types, ranging from small five-person apartments to sprawling four-room options. They’re priced about the same as Club Med, and aren’t within walking distance to the mountain. But you get a lot more space than in a standard hotel, which may make it a good fit for bigger groups hoping to catch the FIS World Cup in France.

Les Equinoxes: 71 Rue des Étroits, 73150 Val-d’Isère, France

Must-dos during winter in Val d’Isère

 

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Val d’Isère is more than just a race venue – it’s one of the biggest resorts in France, and has a long history as a winter destination, for skiing or not.

For most people, skiing or snowboarding will be at the top of their to-do lists. The combined resorts are known as the Tignes-Val d’Isère ski area, but it’s also known by its old name: the Espace Killy Ski Area, named for a legendary French alpine skier who grew up in Val d’Isère and won three gold medals at the 1968 Winter Olympics. Combined, skiers have access to more than 186 miles of downhill trails, so it’s plenty to fill a week of skiing. Adult lift tickets start at 50 euros (about $52) and get progressively cheaper as you add more days, so it’s much more affordable than skiing at an equally large resort in North America.

Dog sledding is available just a quick drive away. Photo: SandraKoroleva94/Shutterstock

If skiing isn’t your jam – or even if it is – you may want to set aside one day to try ice climbing. At the entrance of Val d’Isère sits La Faille icefall, illuminated with floodlights each evening. Val d’Isère Mountain Guides offers half-day guided lessons starting at 150 euros (or about $159) per person. Classes include use of crampons and ice axes, and lessons on how to try your hand at the sporty ski alternative.

If you’ve never done it before, dog sledding can be a fun activity, especially for animal lovers who will enjoy spending time with the dogs as much as the actual ride. Evolution 2 offers short dog-mushing tours in Vallée du Manchet, just a few minutes from the ski village. It’s 150 euros for up to two people in a sled pulled by high-energy pointers bred specifically for their mushing skills. Even if you’ve done it before, spending time with the sled dogs while taking in the landscapes will be an unforgettable vacation moment.

Val d’Isére is the most popular FIS World Cup event in France

Racers at the Critérium de la Première Neige FIS World Cup in France. Photo: Katie Botwin

Val d’Isère isn’t the only place to catch events of the FIS World Cup, as competitions are held across the world, including in Canada and the US. But in France, there’s no better place to watch athletes from around the world push the bounds of speed, including US Olympians like Mikaela Shiffrin. And since ski trips in Europe are known for being far more affordable than those in North America – and the après-ski culture everywhere in the Alps is wildly more exciting than than in North America – it’s not surprising that Val d’Isère’s FIS World Cup events are getting more and more popular with American skiers. If you’re looking for an ideal mix of world-class competition, exceptional slopes, luxurious accommodations, and vibrant après-ski culture, Val d’Isère could be a strong contender for your next ski week trip.

More like thisTravelYou Can Travel From London to the Alps by Train This Winter

Ever Wished You Could Take Your Dog on a Cruise? Now You Can.

It’s no secret that Americans love their dogs, with two-thirds of pet owners saying in a 2024 survey that they’d bring their pets with them every time they traveled, if they could.

And starting in 2025, you can — at least if you and Fido are up for a few days of fun at sea.

Margaritaville at Sea recently announced that in November 2025, a first-of-its-kind dog-friendly cruise for travelers and their dogs will set sail from Tampa, FL, hosted by Expedia Cruises and CruiseTails.com. While some cruise companies allow pets for repositioning cruises (primarily Cunard), they’re required to stay in a kennel area and are aren’t allowed in spaces like guest rooms or theaters But the new cruise, according to the organizers, will prioritize pets as much as people. “We put the bark in em-bark,” writes the website.

There’s no word yet on what activities will be available for dogs at potential Caribbean ports of call. Photo: Masarik/Shutterstock

The Margaritaville at Sea Islander ship has 1,105 rooms and 11 decks, but the November speciality dog cruise will have only 250 dogs on board, leaving all four-legged friends plenty of space. Each doggy guest will have a private “relief station” on their stateroom balcony, and cruise “pet butlers” will be assigned to each cabin to ensure rooms and common areas stay clean for both humans and dogs. The itinerary has yet to be announced, but event organizers confirmed to Matador Network via email that the ship will visit at least one port of call, and both people and their pets will be welcome to disembark for the day.

The full itinerary for the dog-friendly cruise will be announced in early 2024, per CruiseTails founder Steve Matzke, with activities designed to ensure all humans and dogs have an enjoyable trip. That’s likely to include “gifts and samples from top vendors, dog shows and training, guest speakers, costume contests, and parades,” among other activities. Accordingly, all pet owners will be required to sign a photo release. “We anticipate the fun will be all over social media and even in the press,” write organizers, who anticipate that some of the 250 dogs selected to sail may be asked to do pet product sponsorships during the sailing.

Dogs allowed on board will need to be up to date on all vaccinations. Photo: Zivica Kerkez/Shutterstock

And yes, the dogs welcomed on the cruise will be selected. Guests and dogs will be reviewed by the CruiseTails team, and must agree to a few key stipulations to have a chance at setting sail. All dogs much be up to date on any required vaccinations, and need to be able to provide both a health certificate from a veterinarian and submit to a health check while boarding the ship. Owners must also agree to follow on-board rules regarding their furry friends, including keeping them in approved areas. While rooms and nearly all activities will be dog-friendly, spaces like the ship’s three pool decks will remain limited to human travelers only — though there will be doggy splash stations (and dog massages) available elsewhere on board.

Dogs won’t allowed in some areas, like the ship’s three pool decks. Photo: CruiseTails

It’s also advised that pet owners make sure dogs on board have a selection of “costumes and evening wear” — so it’s likely that photo opportunities will be a key part of the experience.

While the dog-friendly cruise is thought to be the first of its kind, Steve Matzke says he hopes it won’t be the last. “I consider my Yorkie, Louis, to be part of my family, and for years I missed out on the “family reunion” cruise because I will not travel without him,” he says. “We are hopeful to see this become an annual event for dog lovers.”

Potential travelers are advised to make sure their dogs have cruise-appropriate wardrobes before setting sail. Photo: Ezzolo/Shutterstock

Applications are expected to open within the next month, and interested travelers can sign up for notifications and updates on the bottom of the CruiseTails trip website.

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14 Iceland Waterfalls That Look Better in Winter: A Visual Guide

Iceland’s natural beauty is no secret: Laugavegur Trail for a stunning, otherworldly hike; many (many) opportunities to see the northern lights, which will be stronger than normal over the next couple years; ice caves; and no shortage of incredible places to stay. And then there are the waterfalls.

Iceland has thousands of waterfalls (up to 10,000 by some estimates) scattered across its breathtaking landscape. Each is shaped by the volcanic and glacial forces that define the rest of the island. Best of all? Many are also strikingly accessible and just a short hike from the main road. In winter, these natural wonders undergo a stunning transformation, revealing a world of contrasts: icy blues, frosty whites, and rugged black lava rock. Some even freeze. This all comes together to make Iceland one of the world’s most picturesque winter destinations for waterfall seekers, landscape photographers, and those who just want to find solace in nature and who don’t mind the cold.

From iconic sites like Gullfoss and Skógafoss to lesser-known falls like Brúarfoss and Dynjandi, each waterfall unveils its own unique character in winter. This visual guide will lead you through Iceland’s most stunning winter waterfalls, showcasing the beauty that lingers long after the summer crowds and the midnight sun have faded.

We hope you love the tours and stays we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page.

Gullfoss

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Gullfoss is one of Iceland’s most iconic waterfalls. In winter, the surrounding landscape is often blanketed in snow, and the powerful falls partially freeze, creating layers of glistening ice.

Height: 105 feet

How to get there: Gullfoss is located along the Golden Circle just 1.5 hours from Reykjavik. The Gullfoss Visitor Center and a dedicated parking area are just a short walk from the falls.

Nearby activities: The nearby Geysir geothermal area and the Thingvellir National Park are must-see stops along the Golden Circle. The Gulfoss Visitor Center hosts the locally run Gullfoss Café, where you can enjoy local food and refreshments. Don’t want to think about planning and transportation? It’s easy to explore the geology of the Golden Circle with a tour.

Seljalandsfoss

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Famous for the trail that lets you walk behind it, Seljalandsfoss transforms in winter with ice formations around the cave behind the falls. The snow-covered landscape and frozen mist add an otherworldly vibe to the already stunning waterfall.

Height: 200 feet

How to get there: Seljalandfoss is a two hour drive from Reykjavik toward the South Coast. There is a parking lot next to the falls but no visitor center. Note that the walking path behind the falls may be icy in winter.

Nearby activities: Skógafoss, another must-see waterfall, and the black sand beach of Reynisfjara are close by. You can also find the LAVA Centre, a volcano and earthquake exhibition, in the town of Hvolsvöllur. A tour of the South Coast on an Arctic truck makes navigating the season easier.

Skógafoss

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Known for its wide, powerful cascade, Skógafoss is even more striking in winter when the icy surroundings and frosty river below create a monochromatic spectacle of winter beauty.

Height: 197 feet

How to get there: Located in Iceland’s South Coast, Skógafoss is easily accessible and has a nearby parking lot. A staircase alongside the waterfall offers stunning views from above.

Nearby activities: The Skógasafn Folk Museum in the nearby Skógar village is a great option to immerse yourself in Icelandic history. The village also offers guesthouses and cafes.

Svartifoss

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Located in Vatnajökull National Park, Svartifoss is framed by distinctive black basalt columns. The contrast between the dark basalt and snowy landscape creates a stark, beautiful scene that can only be appreciated during the winter months.

Height: 65 feet

How to get there: Svartifoss is located in the Skaftafell Nature Reserve within Vatnajökull National Park. Skaftafell is a four hour drive east of Reykjavik, but the impressive amount of sights along the road — including Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss — usually make it longer. Getting to the falls requires a 45-minute hike from the Skaftafell Visitor Center.

Nearby activities: The national park has plenty of trails and highlights including the Svínafellsjjökull Glacier and the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.

Dettifoss

Photo: Adam Major/ShutterstockPhoto: 9MOT/ShutterstockPhoto: Lukas Vejrik/ShutterstockPhoto: oneinchpunch/Shutterstock
Dettifoss is considered one of Europe’s most powerful waterfalls. In winter, the falls’ characteristic grayish tint, derived from volcanic sediment, is intensified by the surrounding snowy terrain, making this one of Iceland’s most imposing winter sights. The falls are located in the Vatnajökull National Park.

Height: 144 feet

How to get there: Dettifoss is located north of the Ring Road. Two gravel roads connect the main road to Dettifoss and conditions may vary depending on the weather. There is a parking area, but a short hike to the falls is required.

Nearby activities: Attractions near Dettifoss include the Krafla Volcanic Area and the Hverir Geothermal Field. The nearby town of Akureyri is the best base to explore the North of Iceland.

Godafoss

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Known as the “Waterfall of the Gods,” Godafoss is one of the most picturesque falls in Iceland, especially when the icy blue waters contrast with snow-laden banks. The falls partially freeze during winter and create a mesmerizing spectacle that’s best appreciated during sunrise or sunset.

Height: 39 feet

How to get there: Located just outside the Diamond Circle in Northern Iceland, Godafoss is just a 45 minute drive from Akureyri. The falls are easily accessible with nearby parking. Both sides of the falls are viewable after a short walk.

Nearby activities: The town of Akureyri, just a 30-minute drive away, has restaurants, hot springs, and museums. The scenic Mývatn region is also nearby, perfect for further exploration.

Kirkjufellsfoss

Photo: Lukas Gojda/ShutterstockPhoto: Thampitakkull Jakkree/ShutterstockPhoto: Jag_cz/Shutterstock
With Kirkjufell mountain in the background, Kirkjufellsfoss is a favorite for photographers despite being significantly shorter than some of the other highlight waterfalls in Iceland. In winter, the frozen falls and snow-covered landscape with Kirkjufell looming behind make it look like a scene from a fantasy world.

Height: Approximately 16 feet

How to get there: Kirkjufellsfoss is located near the picturesque town of Grundarfjördur on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. There is a dedicated parking area just a short walk from the falls.

Nearby activities: Kirkjufell mountain, a top photo destination, is just steps away. The town of Grundarfjördur offers dining options and the Snaefellsnes Peninsula has plenty of scenic viewpoints and trails.

Hraunfossar and Barnafoss

Photo: Lukas Gojda/ShutterstockPhoto: Miroslav Denes/ShutterstockPhoto: Lukas Gojda/Shutterstock
These neighboring waterfalls have unique appeal in winter. Hraunfossar is a series of small streams cascading over a lava field that create intricate ice formations. The nearby Barnafoss, which means “children’s falls,” flows more violently, adding a dramatic contrast.

Height: Barnafoss drops about 30 feet while Hraunfossar spans about 295 feet across

How to get there: These falls are located in west Iceland, near the settlements of Reykholt and Borgarnes. Parking is available near the falls, with short pathways leading to viewing platforms.

Nearby activities: The nearby Reykholt village is a picturesque small town with historical significance. There’s also Deildartunguhver, the highest flowing hot springs in Europe, and the Krauma geothermal baths.

Aldeyjarfoss

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Located in the Northern Highlands, Aldeyjarfoss combines powerful water flow with striking basalt columns. Snow and ice emphasize the unique rock formations during the winter months, making this a very popular spot for photographers.

Height: 65 feet

How to get there: Aldeyjarfoss is located in the northern Icelandic Highlands, halfway between Akureyri and Lake Myvatn. The rough road leading to the falls requires a 4WD vehicle. Aldeyjarfoss can be approached from two sides. Each side has its own parking lot and requires a short hike.

Nearby activities: Húsavík, the whale-watching capital of Iceland, is a reasonable drive away with several dining and museum options.

Háifoss

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Located near the Hekla volcano in the southern Iceland valleys, Háifoss is one of the country’s tallest waterfalls. Winter makes the hike challenging but rewarding, with views of both the falls and its neighbor, Granni, amid a serene, snowy expanse. It feels remote and otherworldly, with ice formations accenting the dramatic drop.

Height: 400 feet

How to get there: Háifoss is located in the Fossárdalur Valley in South Iceland. Reaching Háifoss in winter requires a 4WD vehicle due to gravel road conditions. A short, rugged trail from the parking area leads to a viewpoint.

Nearby activities: The falls are close to the Hekla volcano and its surrounding valley. Limited dining options mean packing a meal might be necessary.

Dynjandi

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Known as the “Jewel of the Westfjords,” Dynjandi is a stunning multi-tiered waterfall that cascades down like a bridal veil over a 100-meter drop. In winter it looks like a natural ice sculpture. Reaching Dynjandi in winter can be challenging due to its remote location in the Westfjords, but those willing to make the journey will be rewarded with a perfect winter postcard.

Height: 328 feet

How to get there: Dyjandi is located in the Westfjords, one of Iceland’s most remote and stunning locations. The falls are accessible by car with a short hike from the parking lot, though road conditions in winter can be challenging.

Nearby activities: Nearby towns like Ísafjördur offer dining and accommodations. Sites such as the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve and the Látrabjarg Birdwatching Cliffs are great for nature lovers wanting to spot arctic foxes and puffins in their natural habitats.

Brúarfoss

Photo: Wanut Pratakviriya/ShutterstockPhoto: Ikunl/ShutterstockPhoto: PangJee S/Shutterstock
Known for its vivid blue color, Brúarfoss is a lesser-known waterfall hidden along Iceland’s Golden Circle. In winter, the icy blue water contrasts beautifully with the snow-covered landscape, creating a surreal sight. The smaller size of the falls means it freezes partially, forming delicate ice crystals, and since it’s off the beaten path, you can often enjoy its tranquil beauty without crowds.

Height: Approximately 10 feet

How to get there: Brúarfoss is part of the Golden Circle in South Iceland. There’s accessible parking near the falls with a short, easy path and a bridge that goes directly above the falls.

Nearby activities: The falls are close to the Geysir geothermal area and Gullfoss. Dining options are available in nearby Laugarvatn.

Kvernufoss

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Just a short hike from Skógafoss, Kvernufoss is a lesser-known spot where you can experience the thrill of walking behind the waterfall. In winter, Kvernufoss takes on a mystical quality as ice forms around the edges and the landscape becomes blanketed in snow. The waterfall itself remains partially unfrozen, creating beautiful contrasts between the flowing water and icy surroundings.

Height: Approximately 98 feet

How to get there: The falls require a short, half-mile hike each way from the parking area near Skógafoss. The trail isn’t the most marked, but it’s easy to follow. After 20 minutes you’ll reach the Kvernugil Gorge where the waterfall is located.

Nearby activities: Visit Skógafoss for more waterfall views. You can also visit the LAVA Center in the nearby town of Hvolsvöllur.

More like thisThe Best Way to See and Hike Glymur Waterfall, Iceland's Highest Waterfall

My Husband and I Signed Up for Tango Lessons in Barcelona. It Was the Highlight of Our Trip.

On a recent trip to Barcelona, my husband, two friends, and I raced around trying to see all the famous sights, from the Sagrada Familia to Park Güell and the Picasso Museum. At night, we indulged in tapas and delicious local wine. It was our friend’s first time in Europe, and while there, the four of us wanted to experience something more authentic to get a real taste of local life. Having heard about Airbnb Experiences through work, I found a Tango experience in Barcelona that seemed to fit the bill. After getting the thumbs up from my friends, I booked the experience for all of us with my own funds (this was not a sponsored event).

We hope you love these tango lessons in Barcelona! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to take to the (rooftop) dance floor.

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Arriving to the Barcelona tango lessons

Photo: Airbnb

In the Gothic quarter, we arrived at the apartment building with a manual door elevator that took us to the rooftop. The apartment was easier to find than we expected, as the hosts provided us with pictures of the entrance, door, and walkway beforehand. They welcomed us, and offered us a choice of white wine sangria or beer before leading us onto the patio to listen to a brief history of Tango. Ana Paula, one of our co-hosts, explained to the group of 14—a mix of local Barcelonians and travelers—that tango originated with Spanish and European settlers who made their way to Argentina, describing the dance as “’sad walking.” Tango, she said, is a way to express loneliness, but together. “No hip movements. It is a feeling of an embrace.”

Our other co-host, Jorge, took charge of our dance instructions and set the rules: “No phones, no cameras, no videos, no questions.” He wanted us to be fully present in the moment. We then gathered in his living room–a rectangular space with minimal furniture, a computer for music, and wooden floors– as an energetic Jorge walked us through the steps slowly, apologizing to his neighbors through the floors for the sound of 14 of us clomping above. Jorge would give a set of instructions, and then use a participant for demonstration. He only used the men as helpers. He would hold out a hand, say a woman’s name, and ask, “Can I borrow your partner for a moment?” He would show the steps to the men, then take the female dance partner role to practice with them, using a falsetto voice and batting his eyes, earning all of our delight.

Sometimes only the men would practice their steps while the women, drinks in hand, watched and giggled as their partners learned the new sequence. And vice versa, as the women practiced with each other before partnering up to try it out on the “dance” floor. As we practiced and danced, Jorge clucked his tongue if a move wasn’t completed right, then showed us all how to do it correctly while making a small rolling R bird sound and hands flourishing dramatically. His energy was infectious as we all laughed and studied the steps. We danced for an hour to learn the entire routine, slowly stepping to the song played on the computer. After several practice rounds, we were allowed to grab our phones, and in groups of three or four pairs, we danced while someone else filmed the final sequence as our class memento.

A night filled with tipples, tricks, and tangoOur group became fast friends. Photo: Josh WilkingSome of us even became decent tango dancers. Photo courtesy Kelsey Wilking

After everyone completed their final performance, the now-newbie tango dancers filled their glasses and headed to the patio to enjoy the city’s nighttime skyline. As we chatted and took pictures, we learned more about each other, laughing and reminiscing about how much fun learning tango had been. It’s easy to get lost in rushing to see all the sights in a city, trying to check every box on your ‘vacation to-do’ list. But connecting with people through a shared purpose was such an effortless way to meet new people and see a completely different side of the city — one I hadn’t expected.

We said our goodbyes to each other and our thanks to Jorge, then shuffled out onto the streets of Barcelona in search of paella and wine. My husband, Josh, isn’t the biggest fan of dancing — rhythm isn’t exactly our strong suit. But tango? It’s something anyone can do. It’s simple, it’s fun, and we didn’t even break a sweat. Our friends loved it, with one even saying it was his favorite thing we did in Barcelona. Despite all the beauty and architectural wonders the city had to offer, his highlight was spending time in a local’s apartment, learning a new dance. The class starts at $27 per person.

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High-Speed Rail Could Soon Cover Several of the Busiest Airline Routes in the United States, Drastically Reducing Emissions

Most of the highest-traffic airline routes in the United States either start or end in New York or Los Angeles. All fly between major hub cities, with at least one end of the route being on a coast. None involve Middle America, or anywhere further from a major body of water than Las Vegas. But the most interesting fact about the US Department of Transportation’s report on the 10 busiest airline routes in the United States, isn’t even included in the data – at least three of the routes could soon be taken by high-speed rail. If this comes to pass, it will be possible for travelers to cut their emissions traveling between these cities by between 70 and 80 percent, according to data from the Federal Railroad Administration and Science Direct.

What are the most popular airline routes in the United States?

Photo: Markus Mainka/Shutterstock

As you may suspect, major cities like New York, Los Angeles, and San Francisco appear repeatedly in the list. Interestingly, Atlanta – home to the busiest airport in the world – only shows up once, and the same goes for Chicago. Denver – with the third-busiest airport in the country – doesn’t make the list at all.

Miami to New York City – 18,809 passengers per dayLos Angeles to San Francisco – 17,527 passengers per dayLos Angeles to New York City – 13,856 passengers per dayNew York City to Orlando – 13,302 passengers per dayChicago to New York City – 11,036 passengers per dayAtlanta to New York City – 9,691 passengers per dayNew York City to San Francisco – 9,142 passengers per dayLos Angeles to Seattle – 7,836 passengers per dayLas Vegas to Los Angeles – 7,533 passengers per dayBoston to Washington, DC – 7,193 passengers per dayWhere can high-speed rail replace these routes?

Photo: Krtz07 /Shutterstock

According to the High Speed Rail Alliance, the first stretch of high-speed rail infrastructure between San Francisco and Los Angeles is currently underway in the state’s Central Valley, with work currently being done on a 171-mile stretch. The line is expected to open late in this decade to connect the cities in about three hours at 217 miles per hour.

Another in-proress stretch of rail will connect Los Angeles and Las Vegas. Brightline aims to connect Vegas to Rancho Cucomungo, just outside LA, beginning in 2028. The 218-mile trip will take just over two hours including at least one stop along the way, in Victor Valley. Interestingly, the bulk of the route will proceed in the median of the I-15 corridor, so train passengers can watch car travelers crawl along as they whizz by in a more efficient, more enjoyable, and more sustainable manner.

Amtrak’s Acela train connects Boston to Washington, DC, in about 6.5 hours. However, there are talks and ideas about making an even faster train between the two cities. The Northeast Maglev concept plans to connect DC and New York in about an hour, and by adding a Boston leg would connect several major cities along the eastern seaboard, also including Baltimore and Philadelphia in addition to smaller cities like Providence, in just a couple of hours. Maglev technology, which involves levitating trains, is similar to what is used by some bullet trains in Japan and China. Check out the below video from CityNerd:

What’s exciting about this concept, though it’s not even in planning stages, is that it not only impacts multiple of the high-traffic airline routes on this list, but connects other cities – Philly and Boston, New York and Baltimore – that see ample daily traffic between themselves already. Brightline currently operates high-speed rail from Miami to Orlando. To follow development of high-speed rail in the United States and take part in advocacy, follow the High Speed Rail Alliance. More like thisTrain TravelAmtrak Food and Drink Options: Everything You Need to Know Before Your Next Train Trip

In Kentucky, Small Cities Leave a Big Impression. Here Are 5 to Visit.

As my father’s birthplace, Kentucky has always had a special place in my heart. I’ve traveled many of the Bluegrass state’s highways, byways, and waterways. But for this trip, I embarked on a five-day Appalachian journey to five small but mighty cities in Kentucky: Berea, Stearns, Corbin, Pikeville, and Winchester.

When I was a child, my dad told me about the first settlers in Kentucky who carried only the bare necessities. The legendary frontiersman Daniel Boone came through the Cumberland Gap in 1769, marking the way that would lead more than 300,000 settlers through the important gateway to make a new life. Early pioneers had to leave behind most of their possessions, but they brought with them a love of music and the talent to create something lovely from almost nothing. As a result, folks in these small towns take pride in the traditional music, cooking, storytelling, and arts and crafts that have been passed down through generations.

This trip through small-town Kentucky explores the cultural legacy of the state’s early settlers, which can be felt like a strong heartbeat in compact cities that do, indeed, offer big experiences.

Berea

Things to do in Berea

Berea College

Photo: Minh Truong/Shutterstock

We arrived in Berea from Blue Grass Airport in Lexington shortly before 8 PM. The drive took slightly less than an hour. Our itinerary had us leaving Berea the next morning at 8:30 AM, so our visit was limited. Most shops and sites were closed when we got there and when we left.

Known as the “Crafts Capital of Kentucky,” Berea (pop. 16,129) was named after a biblical town and founded by folks sympathetic to emancipation and abolition. Berea was incorporated in 1890, but the area’s history was highly influenced by the founding of Berea College in 1855.

Unlike any other college, Berea College was the first integrated, co-educational college in the South and has not charged student tuition since 1892. A private liberal arts work college, Berea College continues a tradition of requiring all students to work 10 to 20 hours in different jobs around the campus to pay for textbooks and room and board. Berea College has 1,600 students, mostly from Appalachia but also from around the world.

Berea College: 101 Chestnut St, Berea, KY 40403

Where to eat and drink in Berea

Boone Tavern Restaurant

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

Stepping into the Historic Boone Tavern Hotel and Restaurant, we stashed our luggage at the front desk and headed straight to the restaurant since it was almost closing time. The smell of the tavern’s legendary spoonbread let us know this was going to be a memorable meal.

Founded in 1909 and named in honor of frontiersman Daniel Boone, the tavern is owned by Berea College and has long been a favorite on Berea’s College Square. The menu has plenty to tempt any palate. My choice was the comforting chicken flakes — creamed chicken served in a crisp potato nest with mashed potatoes, green beans, and cranberry-orange relish. Boone Tavern also serves alcoholic beverages — a wide list of them, in fact, since 2014.

But what makes dining at Boone Tavern particularly special is that every lunch and dinner starts with a complimentary serving of the restaurant’s famous spoonbread. The creamy, pudding-like dish got its name because it’s served with a spoon and usually topped with a dollop of butter, honey, or sorghum. If you want to serve it at home, the recipe is below.

Berea Spoonbread

Ingredients:

3 cups whole milk
1 cup plain cornmeal
1 teaspoon baking powder
3 large eggs
4 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt

Directions:

Scald the milk, stir in cornmeal, and bring just to a boil, making mush. Remove from heat. Stir in butter until melted. Cool. Beat eggs to a froth with salt and baking powder. Add to cornmeal mixture. Beat with hand mixer for 2-4 minutes. Pour into a pre-heated buttered pan. Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 30-45 minutes or until nicely browned.

Before heading out the next morning, we enjoyed an early breakfast in Boone Tavern. Buttermilk biscuits, pork sausage gravy, and sunny-side-up eggs for me. Other diners said the chia pudding was great: coconut milk, honey, house-made granola, muffin, fresh berries, or banana.

Boone Tavern Restaurant: 100 Main St., Berea, KY 40403

Where to stay in Berea

Historic Boone Tavern Hotel

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

The story goes that in 1908, Eleanor Frost — wife of Berea College President William Goodell Frost — hosted 300 overnight guests in the president’s home and served meals to 1,500 people. Not surprisingly, that’s when Eleanor Frost decided the college needed a hotel.

In those days, electric lighting and indoor bathrooms were not common. But the new Boone Tavern Hotel that opened in 1909 had the newfangled electricity in its 25 guest rooms. Before long, the hotel expanded to a third floor and added indoor bathrooms in 1915. Over the years, the smoke-free Boone Tavern Hotel grew to 63 guest rooms, a cafe, a restaurant, and a reputation as one of the finest small inns in the South.

Checking into my overnight room, the friendly desk clerk handed me a metal key instead of the customary plastic key card used by most hotels, and I could see why Boone Tavern Hotel has so many return guests. Reminding me of my grandmother’s Kentucky farmhouse guestroom, my room had lovely handcrafted wooden beds, a dresser, a desk, and a chair. The bathroom was large with a walk-in shower plus plenty of hot water and good water pressure.

Historic Boone Tavern Hotel: 100 Main St., Berea, KY 40403

Stearns

Things to do in Stearns

Big South Fork Scenic Railway

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About 90 minutes from Berea is the little town of Stearns (pop. 1,222) where we boarded the Big South Fork Scenic Railway for a 45-minute train ride to the former coal town of Blue Heron. The clackety train with its six passenger cars passed through beautiful wilderness where we could look outside of our open train window to see wandering streams and steep-walled canyons.

Now an outdoor museum managed by the National Park Service, Blue Heron was once a busy coal mining camp. From 1937 to 1962, hundreds of people lived and worked in this isolated community on the banks of the Big South Fork River.

After extracting most of the coal and timber, the Stearns Coal and Lumber Company pulled out. Without work, most people moved away, too. What immediately caught my eye when we first arrived was the huge coal tipple and the railroad bridge across the river. The tipple is where coal cars brought the coal to be sorted. Views from the bridge are well worth the walk.

In 1989, most of the original buildings were ingeniously rebuilt as “ghost structures.” The 16 steel skeletons of former buildings include life-size photographs of miners and their families, plus taped interviews of former Blue Heron residents.

It was a bit eerie and sad to hear past residents talk about the difficult life in a coal camp. Each ghost structure deals with a particular aspect of Blue Heron life, such as school, church, and women’s life. Few children finished school beyond the eighth grade. Some only went until they were old enough to work. In the tape recording, one full-grown man noted that he regretted not having more education, so he asked the teacher if he could return and learn. She agreed. The older man sat with fourth-grade students. And he learned.

Big South Fork Scenic Railway: 66 Henderson St., Stearns, KY 42647

Where to eat and drink in Stearns

Whistle Stop

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Finding a place to eat in Stearns was simple. We got off our train ride on the Big South Fork Scenic Railway, walked into the train depot, and sat down at the Whistle Stop cafe. The place was hopping with hungry diners, but we were quickly waited on by an efficient waitress.

My fried chicken sandwich was okay, as were the onion rings. But I was already pretty full from the beer cheese and pretzel appetizer. I was surprised to learn that a small Kentucky town I’d be visiting is known as the Beer Cheese Capital of the world. More about that later.

Whistle Stop: 66 Henderson St., Stearns, KY 42647

Corbin

Things to do in Corbin

Colonel Harland Sanders Park

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

A 50-minute drive from Stearns brought us to Corbin where we spent the rest of the day and night. A very sweet, walkable little town (pop. 7,843), Corbin is home to Colonel Harland Sanders’ original Kentucky Fried Chicken restaurant. Although Sanders died of leukemia on December 16, 1980, at age 90, his image is still very much alive in Corbin.

Dedicated in 2015, Sanders Park honors Corbin’s famous son. Located on the main shopping street, Sanders Park features a life-size bronze statue of Sanders as well as a Secret Recipe Garden containing some of the 11 herbs and spices used in Sanders’ famous, secret, finger-licking-good recipe.

Before his death, Sanders gave millions to hospitals, schools, and charities. “There’s no reason to be the richest man in the cemetery. You can’t do any business from there,” Sanders is quoted on a park plaque.

Sanders Park:201 S. Main St., Corbin, KY 40701

Pinball Museum of Corbin

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

Bells ring. Lights flash. Queen’s Freddie Mercury belts a tune as Elton John adds his music from a nearby machine. Floating over the room is oldies-but-goodies songs, primarily from the 1970s and 1980s. The Pinball Museum of Corbin is definitely entertaining. And different.

This museum doesn’t have “Don’t Touch” rules. In fact, visitors of all ages are invited to play the more than 100 pinball machines, 10 arcade cabinets, two big ball bowlers, and some newer machines that reward gamers with prizes. Machines date from 1969 to 2024, including the world’s largest pinball machine: the 1977 Hercules made by Atari.

You don’t need a pocketful of quarters to play pinball here, either. A single $18 entrance fee allows customers to play the machines all day. Prepare to be pinball pampered with these games – Super Mario Bros, The Godfather, Wrestle Mania, The Sopranos, The Addams Family, Transformers, Aerosmith, The Beatles, Jurassic Park, Halloween, The Wizard of Oz, and many more. My favorite? John Wick.

Pinball Museum of Corbin: 112 S. Main St., Corbin, KY 40701

Cumberland Falls

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Called the “Niagara of the South,” Cumberland Falls forms a 125-foot-wide curtain that plunges almost 70 feet into the boulder-strewn gorge below. On clear nights under a full moon, when the wind and water levels are just right, a “moonbow” will appear like magic. The mist rising from the falls creates the rainbow-like phenomenon, the only one in the Western Hemisphere.

Located in Cumberland Falls State Resort Park, Cumberland Falls has a visitor’s center, a gift shop, restrooms, a snack bar, a big parking lot, and free admission. A walkway to see the falls is easy to maneuver from the parking lot. A more adventurous walk goes past that point to sites below the falls.

Exhibits inside the visitor’s center showcase the area’s geology, history, and Indigenous life. Two live critters attract attention in their private homes. One is a common musk turtle, or stinkpot turtle, which got its name due to its ability to release a foul musky odor from scent glands on the edge of its shell, probably to keep predators away. The other live critter is a diamondback water snake, a large nonvenomous snake that’s frequently mistaken for the venomous cottonmouth. The snake seemed to eye me as I quickly moved past.

Visitors can buy a bag of gemstones in the visitor’s center and see what treasures might be in the bag. A flume outside the center is where you can place the rough material in the bag onto a screen that’s provided. Wash and rinse the material with water from the flume. Never know what gems might be in the material — quartz, ruby, moonstone, topaz, amethyst, garnet, sapphire, emerald, and much more. It’s a fun activity for children and families.

Cumberland Falls: 7351 Highway 90, Corbin, KY 40701

Where to eat and drink in Corbin

Wrigley Taproom & Eatery

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As soon as I saw the old brick wall, I knew where The Wrigley Taproom & Eatery in downtown Corbin got its name. The historic mural depicts a small elfin character pointing to a pack of gum near the restaurant’s front window. The gum? Wrigley’s, of course, founded in 1891 in Chicago by William Wrigley Jr. My favorite gum as a child was Wrigley’s Juicy Fruit.

When restauranteur Kristin Smith saw the 1919 sign, she loved it so much that she named her new restaurant after it. Since 2014, hungry folks have found their way to The Wrigley Taproom & Eatery to enjoy the large selection of craft beer, creative cocktails, and fresh farm-to-fork food.

For dinner, I chose a tasty panko-crusted Springer Mountain chicken breast with mozzarella, house marinara, and Parmigiana Reggiano butter on a toasted brioche bun. I also couldn’t pass up the “big ass pretzel,” a huge salted pretzel with beer cheese and house-made mustard.

As I left, I stopped to read a sign over the restaurant door that describes the restaurant’s goal very well: “The Wrigley Taproom & Eatery strives to care for and nurture our community in mind, body, and spirit, one inspired plate at a time.”

Wrigley Taproom & Eatery: 207 S. Main St., Corbin, KY 40701

Where to stay in Corbin

Cumberland Falls State Resort Park

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

I’m seldom distracted from breakfast. But on this pre-dawn morning, I left my eggs, sausage, and fruit sitting on the Riverview Restaurant dining room table and headed outside. Cumberland Falls State Resort Park was treating us to a spectacular sunrise. Breakfast could wait.

When we arrived at Cumberland Falls State Park the night before, it was bedtime. I didn’t see much outside but enjoyed the lovely decor inside DuPont Lodge. The lodge features solid hemlock beams and knotty pine paneling, plus massive stone fireplaces and a large observation deck overlooking the Cumberland River meandering through the hillside. Lucky for us, autumn leaves were glorious the next morning, and many folks were taking photos on the DuPont Lodge observation deck.

The lodge has 51 rooms with great views. My room for the night had two full-size beds, lovely flower prints on the wall, two big windows, a TV, and a bathroom with a shower and tub. Be aware that DuPont Lodge and Riverview Restaurant closed on November 1, 2024, for renovations that are expected to take 18 months.

Cumberland Falls State Resort Park: 7351 Highway 90, Corbin, KY 40701

Pikeville

Things to do in Pikeville

Hatfield & McCoy Driving Tour

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

After an almost three-hour drive, we arrived in Pikeville (pop. 7,754), where we took a Hatfield-McCoy Driving Tour to learn more about the notorious feud. At the local visitor’s center, visitors can pick up a free driving tour brochure that features directions to each site as well as a CD or USB featuring narration and music.

In the beginning, Anderson “Devil Anse” Hatfield and Randolph “Randall” McCoy were friends. Hatfield lived on the West Virginia side of the Tug Fork of the Big Sandy River, which snaked along the boundary between Kentucky and West Virginia. McCoy lived on the Kentucky side of the river. What started the feud? Probably money, jealousy, and a desire for revenge fueled by the Civil War, the theft of a pig, family squabbles, killings, and a doomed love affair between Roseanna McCoy and Johnse Hatfield. It all seemed to culminate in a horrific massacre on New Year’s 1888.

We stopped at an old-fashioned well at what was once Randall McCoy’s home where a bunch of drunken Hatfields decided they would end the feud once and for all. The Hatfield plan was to kill Randall McCoy and his family and burn down their cabin. Randall fled, escaping into the woods. His son Calvin and daughter Alifair were killed in the crossfire. His wife Sarah suffered a crushed skill after being badly beaten by the Hatfields.

Randall died a bitter man at age 88. His death was caused by accidentally falling into a cooking fire where he was badly burned. He lingered for three months before he died.

Devil Anse caught pneumonia and died in his sleep, also at age 88. Before his death, Anse found religion and was baptized in a nearby creek. Tales are that the water in the creek boiled because Anse was so evil.

Pikeville-Pike County Tourism CVB: 685 Hambley Blvd., Pikeville, KY 41501

Where to eat and drink in Pikeville

Pauley Hollow Distillery

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

Part of the Hatfield-McCoy Feud Driving Tour is a stop at Pauley Hollow Distillery. Why? Besides being a great place for a cool bourbon drink, what does this distillery have to do with that historic feud?

Along with producing premium bourbon, apple brandy, rye whiskey, and much more, Pauley Hollow Distillery also creates a drink named “Fuel of the Feud.” The moonshine is produced using water taken from the Randall McCoy Well at the old homestead where much of Randall’s family was wiped out in a Hatfield massacre.

The idea for Fuel of the Feud was envisioned by Bob Scott, a Hatfield descendant who now owns the property where the McCoy cabin was burned. Made with West Virginia corn and Kentucky rye plus barley, the moonshine is 100 proof. A taste sure can open your eyes.

Founded in 2015, Pauley Hollow Distillery is the first legal distillery in Pike County. It’s owned by husband-and-wife team Jessica and Josh Martin. Jessica made one of the best Old-Fashioned cocktails I’ve ever enjoyed. She used Robert’s Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, a very small batch four-grain whiskey produced by Pauley Hollow Distillery.

Pauley Hollow Distillery: 91 Kate Camp Branch, Forest Hills, KY 41527

Chirico’s Ristorante

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

Chirico’s sure doesn’t look like a restaurant. It looks more like a beautiful historic home, which is exactly what it is — with an excellent Italian restaurant inside.

After the Hatfields burned the McCoy cabin on January 1, 1888, Randall and Sarah McCoy never returned to their Blackberry Creek property. Governors of both Kentucky and West Virginia urged the Hatfields and McCoys to move away from each other. The McCoys purchased this house near the riverbank on East Main Street in Pikeville, and Randall operated a ferry across the Big Sandy River.

Restauranteur Frank Ray Chirico dreamed of establishing an Italian restaurant in 1981. His idea was to use old family recipes that he passed along to his three sons. Originally the restaurant was located on Pike Street but moved to the former McCoy home on Main Street in 2008.

Judging from my lunch special, the family recipes are perfection. My large serving of pizza baked spaghetti and fettuccine alfredo was a very pleasing combination. It came with a side salad with ranch dressing and house garlic bread sticks. I also had a bottle of Ale-8-One, which sounds like alcohol but is really a soft drink. I’d learn more about Kentucky’s iconic soft drink when we visited our last small town.

Chirico’s Ristorante: 235 Main St., Pikeville, KY 41501

Pearse’s Place

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

After a long day of driving and touring, it was nice to cozy up to a table at Pearse’s Place at Dueling Barrels Brewery and Distillery, order a cold beer, and eat a grilled cheese sandwich and a monster pretzel with beer cheese. Since this is Pikeville, you can probably guess what the distillery name is referencing. Yep, the notorious Hatfields and McCoys. Hence, dueling barrels.

Eastern Kentucky’s first combined beer, bourbon, and moonshine operation, Dueling Barrels Brewery and Distillery opened in 2018 by founders Dr. Pearse and Deidre Lyons. An upstairs bar is named Pearse’s Place in honor of the late scientist and Irish entrepreneur.

Pearse’s Place: 224 Second St., Pikeville, KY 41501

Where to stay in Pikeville

Hampton Inn

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Sometimes it’s nice to check into a chain hotel that you know will be modern, quiet, and comfortable. That’s the Hampton Inn in the heart of downtown Pikeville. My large room had a queen-size bed, microwave, mini-fridge, 50-inch HDTV, work area, and ergonomic seating. The hotel also features an indoor heated pool, fitness center, business center, and free WiFi.

But you know what I did? Got in bed and went to sleep. The day had been long and filled with fascinating stories and stops, but I was ready to rest. The next morning, it was breakfast at 7 AM and departure at 8 AM for the final small town on my itinerary.

Hampton Inn: 831 Hambley Blvd., Pikeville, KY 41501

Winchester

Things to do in Winchester

Creative Coffees Roastery

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

After a two-hour drive from Pikeville, it was great to stretch our legs and smell the fresh-roasted coffee at Creative Coffees Roastery in Winchester (pop. 19,254). Opened in 2009, Creative Coffees was founded by Debbie Hohman to help school groups and nonprofits raise funds for many different causes by selling special coffee. Creative Coffees also provides coffee service to restaurants, businesses, churches, and other folks who appreciate a tasty brew.

Debbie’s husband Jeff Hohman is one of Creative Coffees’ master roasters. The company uses the highest quality Arabica beans from Central and South American countries. Creative Coffees offers free tours and tastings.

Creative Coffees Roastery: 215 E. Broadway St., Winchester, KY 40391

Ale-8-One Bottling Co.

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

A successful businessman, George Lee Wainscott was fascinated when he first saw a carbonation machine. Why not create his own soft drink company, he thought? That’s what he did in 1902, operating out of a building in Winchester. Developing his own soft drink formula, Wainscott named his first cola product Roxa-Kola in 1906 after his wife, Roxanne.

But the nation’s largest cola company, Coca-Cola, filed a lawsuit against Wainscott and other independent cola makers. Wainscott won the lawsuit and also an appeal. However, he decided to create another recipe and drop the Kola name. The result was a combination of ginger with citrus.

What to name his new product? Wainscott was smart. He held a contest at the 1926 Clark County Fair to choose a name. The winner? A young fairgoer suggested the new soft drink be named after what it was — the latest thing. At the time, slang for the latest thing was “a late one.” Wainscott shortened that to Ale-8-One.

Other Ale-8-One flavors are cherry and orange cream. The drink also comes in zero sugar and caffeine free. Free factory tours are offered which include Ale-8-One samples.

Ale-8-One Bottling Company: 25 Carol Road, Winchester, KY 40391

Bluegrass Heritage Museum

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

The beautiful 1895 Victorian-era home of Dr. John Ishmael, which later served as a hospital, is now a museum. The Bluegrass Heritage Museum opened on October 12, 2004, and is filled with three floors of galleries dedicated to preserving the interesting history of Clark County. Each gallery concentrates on different aspects of history such as the Civil War, agriculture, telephones, barber shops, quilts, military history, slavery, and much more.

In 1927, Dr. E. P. Guerrant bought the private home and converted it into a hospital: the Guerrant Mission Clinic and Hospital. The hospital closed in 1971, but the first floor remained open as a clinic until 1989.

In the Guerrant Clinic and Hospital Rooms galleries on the museum’s third floor, you can see the operating room, scrub room where doctors and nurses prepped for surgery and cleanup, patient room, and more. Displayed on a wall is a bill for child delivery in 1947 — $141.35 for the operating room, medications, infant care, and a 10-day hospital stay.

My favorite gallery was Homer Ledford’s Workshop, which celebrates the artistry of the bluegrass musician and master instrument maker. He taught woodworking at the local high school until 1963 and was the inventor of the dulcitar (a combination of the dulcimer and the guitar) and also a maker of dulcijos (a combination of the dulcimer and the banjo) and dulcibros (a combination of the dulcimer and the dobro).

During his lifetime, Ledford made 6,014 dulcimers, 475 banjos, 27 mandolins, 26 guitars, 18 ukuleles, 13 dulcitars, three dulcijos, three dulcibros, four violins, and one bowed dulcimer.

Three of his instruments are in the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, DC: an Appalachian dulcimer, a dulcitar, and a fretless banjo.

Bluegrass Heritage Museum: 217 S. Main St., Winchester, KY 40391

Leeds Center for the Arts

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

One of Winchester’s first movie houses, the Leeds Theater has been an important part of the community since 1925. The name came from rearranging the letters of the owner, S.D. Lee. When the theater closed in 1986, the Winchester Council for the Arts restored it to its original appearance and reopened it in 1990 as the Leeds Center for the Arts.

A community gathering place, the theater features theatrical performances, concerts, art galleries, and educational programs. It also emphasizes providing a safe space where children can “learn to lead, discover their voice, and are valued for their uniqueness” through the education programs.

Leeds Center for the Arts: 37 N. Main St, Winchester, KY 40391

Where to eat and drink in Winchester

Smokin’ Howard’s Sports Bar & Grill

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

The smoker on the sidewalk in front of this cafe is a definite giveaway. Smokin’ Howard’s Sports Bar & Grill serves some mighty delicious Southern comfort food and scrumptious barbecue made from Paul Howard’s family recipes. It also had my favorite beer cheese. After all, we are in Winchester, said to be the birthplace of that tangy cheese dip.

The story goes that in the 1930s, cousins Joe and Johnnie Allman were looking for a complimentary concoction that would make customers at the Driftwood Inn on the Kentucky River in Winchester thirsty enough to buy more drinks. The result was a spicy beer cheese dip served with saltines and veggies. The dip drew many followers and, of course, increased drink sales.

Today, Winchester has a Beer Cheese Trail along with a Beer Cheese Festival, held the second Saturday of each June in historic downtown Winchester. Beer cheese fans can get a Beer Cheese Trail Digital Passport delivered via text or email that showcases 15 beer cheese stops in Winchester. The more stops you make on the trail, the more freebies you earn.

My lunch choice at Smokin’ Howard’s was a pulled pork sandwich with onion rings and greens. All of it was great, but I could have made a meal out of those greens and beer cheese.

Smokin’ Howard’s Sports Bar & Grill: 20 N. Main St., Winchester, KY 40391

Loma’s at the Opera House

Photo: Jackie Sheckler Finch

For our last evening on the trip, we dined at Loma’s at the Opera House. Built in the late 1800s, the building was originally a cultural center for the area and later a sewing factory. Major renovations turned it into Loma’s fine restaurant in 2003.

A classy and comfortable restaurant, Loma’s has a great menu including beer cheese grits topped with garlic butter, sautéed shrimp, cherry tomatoes, roasted corn, candied bacon, and scallions. Loma’s is one of the stops on the Beer Cheese Trail. Someday, I hope to return and check off the rest of those great beer cheese places.

Loma’s at the Opera House: 103 S. Main St., Winchester, KY 40391

When to visit small cities in Kentucky and how to get around

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Autumn is an ideal time to visit these small cities in Kentucky. The leaves are so colorful, and the temperatures are not too hot or too cold. Summer travelers are gone, so most attractions are not packed.

I flew into Blue Grass Airport (LEX) in Lexington, Kentucky. I flew American Airlines, which has the largest presence at the airport with around half of the airport’s flights. The airport is easy to maneuver and staffed with friendly folks.

To travel to all the cities on my itinerary, I rode in a shuttle with a driver. It would be best to drive your own vehicle or rent one at the airport because this itinerary does travel quite a bit of miles.

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The Best Jacksonville, Florida, Airbnbs on the Beach and in the City

According to locals, Jacksonville is one of Florida’s best-kept secrets. “We’re like a beach town with a big side of country,” says resident Jay Dodson to Matador contributor Matthew Meltzer. Jacksonville covers a lot of ground; the sprawling metropolis claims 22 miles of white-sand beaches, while the historic districts are lined with a mix-match of architectural styles from Colonial Revival to Mediterranean influences. If you’re looking for a winter sun destination that marries a laid-back beach lifestyle with city art culture, offers warm hospitality with zero pretension, and a small-town feel, you might want to put often overlooked Jacksonville in the mix. It’s also one of the most affordable places on the Sunshine State’s coast, making family vacations do-able. On the subject of budget-friendly, opting for an Airbnb will help with budgeting as well as giving you a space to kick off sandy shoes and unpack a cooler after a day on the coast. From one-bedroom rentals to mansions with outdoor pools, these are the best Airbnbs in Jacksonville.

The best Airbnbs in Jacksonville for solo travelers and couples

Converted 1-bed barn on a family-run pecan farm

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For something with character, check out this barn conversion. You won’t forget a stay here in a hurry — the bed has been constructed in the back of an old truck. It’s not all gimmick, though; past guests have rated this one of the best Airbnbs in Jacksonville. The studio has everything you need: a small kitchenette, a private bathroom with a tub, a comfortable living area, and a fire pit with outdoor seating. The barn is on a small pecan orchard in the countryside on the city’s outskirts.

Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $150 per night

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Open-planned garage studio in Avondale

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This is a great little studio for a couple or solo traveler looking for a stylish Airbnb in Jacksonville’s Historic District. The recently renovated garage studio is open-planned and has a pretty balcony with park views. The kitchen has everything you need, including all the utensils, an electric stove, and a breakfast bar with seating for two. The Historic District is a super part of town stay if you’re visiting for the first time as it’s within walking distance to parks, shopping, and dining. Many of the buildings in this area were tragically lost in the Great Fire of 1901, and most of what you’ll see today is a result of rebuilding efforts. Strolling through the neighborhood, you’ll note a range of architectural styles, from the Gothic Revival of St. John’s Cathedral to the Art Deco of the Florida Theatre.

Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $105 per night

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Cozy 1-bedroom cottage in Springfield

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Another perfect find for one or two guests is this cozy cottage in Springfield. It’s one of Airbnb’s top ten percent homes on the site. These prime rentals are given this status for excellent guest reviews and the host’s communication and service. Springfield is just north of Downtown Jacksonville. It’s also one of the oldest planned residential communities in the state. You’ll find breweries, entertainment venues, and a slooth of excellent restaurants and coffee shops, all within walking distance of the cottage. The Airbnb is actually quite a recent build. It was constructed in 2017 and has recently been given a fresh coat of paint. There’s a spacious screened-in front porch and a backyard to relax on warm evenings, and the host can arrange extras like floral arrangements, charcuterie boxes, and even an outdoor picnic for your arrival.

Two guests, one bedroom
Price: $60 per night

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Riverside cottage with complimentary beach gear and bikes

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If you’d rather have a little more space, this two-bedroom cottage in Riverside is well set up with tons of outdoor space – equipped with a fire pit, grill, and ‘smores kits — and bikes, which you can use to explore the fun neighborhood. Nearby, there are many bars, restaurants, yoga, and fitness studios, and you’ll be provided with a detailed Google doc with local tips for things to do and the best places to eat and drink when you make your reservation. It’s also a great option if you’re flying in, as it’s under 20 minutes from the airport. The hosts of this Airbnb have gone all out and have been awarded the top five percent trophy for little extras such as smart TVs in bedrooms and speakers throughout, remote-controlled air conditioning, a fully stocked kitchen, and complimentary beach chairs, towels, sunscreen, and umbrellas in case you want to hit the beach.

Five guests, two bedrooms
Price: $102 per night

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Relaxed 1-bedroom house a block from Jacksonville Beach

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If you’d prefer to be closer to the beach, bookmark this one-bedroom home one block from Jacksonville Beach. The second-story private cottage has been completely renovated from top to bottom and has two parking spaces. You’ll also have access to the sprawling deck and the back garden with a rope swing. You can walk to the sand from the cottage and this rental also comes with beach chairs and other gear, so you don’t have to worry about packing that in. It’s in a residential neighborhood that has set quiet hours between 10 PM and 7 AM so expect low-key vibes here, perfect for those looking for a chilled beach vacation to Florida.

Three guests, one bedroom
Price: $139 per night

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The best Airbnbs in Jacksonville for families of all sizes and large groups

Cozy family-friendly home with great outdoor space

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This Jacksonville Beach home offers a peaceful retreat for families. With easy access to the beach, TPC Sawgrass, and local amenities, it’s the perfect base for exploring the area. The house has a spacious backyard with a fire pit, a screened-in porch, and a garage converted into a game room. Each bedroom has an ensuite bathroom and walk-in closet, and the third room, with a twin daybed, can be used as an office, reading nook, or extra sleeping space. The home’s modern interior is flooded with natural light and neutral tones, creating a relaxing atmosphere. The well-equipped kitchen, comfortable living room, and outdoor spaces are also ideal for those traveling to Jacksonville with kiddos.

Four guests, three bedrooms
Price: $175 per night

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Waterfront retreat with direct access to Julington Creek and the St. Johns River

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If you’re visiting with a troup of family and friends and want extras like a pool (which will be very welcome in the warmest months), check out this waterfront property in Manderin. It’s close to shops, restaurants, and everything you need, but this part of Jacksonville has a much slower pace. Much like Jacksonville Beach, the outdoors is literally on your doorstep, and this property has direct access to Julington Creek and the St. Johns River, where you can enjoy boating, fishing, or simply relaxing by the water. The spacious home, accommodating up to 20 guests, has a private pool, a boathouse and private pier, and a pickleball court. Inside, you’ll find a well-equipped kitchen, comfortable living spaces, and a second-story apartment.

16+ guests, seven bedroom
Price: $1,174 per night

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Riverfront manor with swimming pools, games room, and at-home movie theater

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This luxurious riverfront retreat called Three Oaks Manor, offers a serene escape for up to 14 guests. The stunning property is in the charming Monclair neighborhood of Jacksonville, with breathtaking views of the St. Johns River. The main floor features a gourmet kitchen and a spacious living area with a cozy fireplace. The primary bedroom on the main floor has an ensuite and direct access to the outdoor patio. The second-floor houses four additional bedrooms, including a children’s room with a bunk bed. The third floor is a dedicated entertainment space featuring a state-of-the-art movie theater room, and the lower level houses a game room equipped with a pool table and a ping pong table. The outdoor area is equally impressive, with a pool, a hot tub, and a large lawn perfect for outdoor gatherings. The expansive patio offers stunning river views and is ideal for relaxation or al fresco dining.

16 guests, six bedroom
Price: $788 per night

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Mid-century modern colorful home with a headed pool

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If you’re looking for an Airbnb for a bachelorette or group celebration, this fun, colorful, group-sized home with outdoor games (including a putting green), an outdoor kitchen, and a heated pool is one to bookmark. The mid-century modern home, is in the vibrant San Jose area of Jacksonville. The Instagrammable backyard is the perfect place for entertaining, and the interior has ample space for a group with two living areas, a game room with a pool table, and a ping-pong table. Located in the heart of San Jose, it’s within walking distance of popular restaurants, bars, and entertainment venues, so you can leave the car at home and enjoy a few drinks, and the beach is just 20 minutes away.

Eight guests, three bedroom
Price: $499 per night

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Tranquil 1920s bungalow in Avondale

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Located in Avondale, a historic neighborhood known for its tree-lined streets, arts scene, boutique shopping, and excellent restaurants, this 1920s bungalow offers vintage old Florida charm. The fully fenced backyard, equipped with a paverstone patio and an outdoor fireplace, is perfect for relaxing and entertaining, and the Florida room looks like the perfect place to curl up with a good book. The interior is bright and airy, featuring an open-concept living area ideal for gathering with loved ones. The home’s convenient location provides easy access to downtown Jacksonville, the beaches, and other popular attractions.

Seven guests, three bedroom
Price: $280 per night

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4-bedroom beach house with a pickleball court and a heated pool

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This is the perfect beach escape. The beautifully updated four-bedroom, two-bathroom townhome is in a tranquil neighborhood just five blocks from Jacksonville Beach. You can unwind in your private backyard oasis, featuring a regulation-sized pickleball court, a challenging putting green with a sand trap, a heated pool, a fire pit, and a covered seating area. The open-concept living, kitchen, and dining area provide a seamless flow for entertaining guests or spending quality time with family. The primary bedroom has a king-sized bed and an en-suite bathroom, while the three guest bedrooms share a convenient guest bathroom. And this pet-friendly beach house offers modern amenities, including smart TVs and a fully equipped gourmet kitchen.

10 guests, four bedroom
Price: $405 per night

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