Matador Network's Blog, page 83

Road Trip Through One of Europe’s Smallest Countries to Understand the True Meaning of Leisure

A tourist visiting Montenegro spots a local friend at a café and asks, “What are you planning to do today?”

“Nothing,” the Montenegrin replies.

“But you did nothing yesterday,” the baffled tourist says.

“Yes,” the local shrugs, “but I didn’t quite finish.”

Traveling through the Balkans, you’ll hear many a playful crack about Montenegrins’ famed love of leisure. While laziness jokes might seem unkind, Montenegrins themselves embrace the stereotype. A popular tongue-in-cheek proverb advises, “When you feel the urge to work, sit down and wait for it to pass.” There is even a Laziest Citizen Contest, a well-attended competition each year in the village of Brezna. The 2023 winners, Lidija Marković and Filip Knežević, set a world record by lying down for 50 days, rising only for meals and bathroom breaks.

As a WASP from New England, I have a psyche deeply marked by the Protestant work ethic the equates productivity with self-worth. Yet, as I sipped a glass of vranac, a rich red wine native to the Balkans, and watched the sun sink into the Adriatic behind the ancient walls of Kotor, I began to grasp the Montenegrin philosophy of dolce far niente: the sweetness of doing nothing. With such beauty before me — the smell of the ocean, the colors of the sunset, the balmy evening breeze — I would be a damn fool to worry about my to-do list.

Montenegro gained independence in 2006, making it one of Europe’s youngest nations, but it’s an old culture. The land that is now Montenegro has changed hands between the Roman, Venetian, Ottoman, Soviet, and many other empires over millennia. I poured another glass of wine and mused about how other cultures shun the rat race in favor of slowed-down, mindful living. Kotor’s lighthouse flickered on and illuminated the bay, and I began to think that Montenegrins, despite the ribbing from their Balkan neighbors, figured out the secret to the good life.

A week is enough time to sink your teeth into Montenegro, one of Europe’s smallest nations. The glittering coast (the setting for the Bond movie, Casino Royale) lends the most iconic images of Montenegro, but the mountains promise just as much charm and far fewer tourists. Starting in Podgorica, Montenegro’s capital, this itinerary showcases the highlands and beaches. Rent a car and drive to both the highlands and beaches to see as much as possible and enjoy some of Europe’s most stunning drives.

Podgorica

Illyrian tribes were the first inhabitants of Podgorica, and their settlement later became a Roman fortress and then an Ottoman stronghold. Modern Podgorica is a sleepy capital, but its historical sites, restaurants, and wine bars warrant a 24-hour sojourn.

Photo: S.Tatian /Shutterstock

Fuel up on sugar and caffeine with a cup of Montenegrin coffee, poured from a cezve like Turkish coffee, and a slice of fresh baklava before meandering through Podgorica’s winding streets. Noteworthy sites include the Ribnica Bridge, a picturesque stone bridge built by the Romans, and the Sahat Kula Clock Tower, a relic of Ottoman rule.

Oblun Eco Resort. Photos: Johnny Motley

After a day of sightseeing and wine-tasting, retire to Oblun Eco Resort, a recently opened glamping property 15 minutes from Podgorica. Within the bounds of Lake Skadar National Park, Eco Resort Oblun lodges guests in sumptuous tents, complete with plush mattresses, private bathrooms, and outdoor wooden decks. In the morning, the views of limestone mountains and invigorating aromas of sagebrush rouse the spirit even better than fresh coffee.

Kolašin

Drive about an hour from Podgorica into Montenegro’s mountainous heart and to the village of Kolašin, the gateway to Bjelasica Mountain Range and Biogradska Gora National Park. While coastal Montenegro was frequently fought over by foreign empires, the rugged highlands and the people who lived there remained largely unconquered.

Photo: Johnny Motley

For a horseback tour of the mountains, drive to Vranjak, a small ranch set against rolling, grassy mountains reminiscent of eastern Wyoming. Horseback rides last around two hours, with each turn of the trail offering views more breathtaking than the last.

Left, pouring rakija; right, Proscuitto and priganice at Konoba Amanet. Photos: Johnny Motley

After working up an appetite on the trails, head to Konoba Amanet for plates of kahamac (mashed potatoes fortified with molten cheese), artisanal prosciutto, and priganice (pillowy balls of fried dough). Wash down the hearty mountain fare with a glass of robust vranac, or do as the Montengrins do and order a bottle of rakija — a distilled fruit spirit popular across the Balkans often infused with berries and astringent herbs.

Goran Radevic, owner of Radevic Estate, during a winery tasting. Photo: Johnny Motley

Radevic Estate Winery, a boutique mountainside winery, treats guests to exquisite tastings paired with history lessons on Montenegrin viticulture, a tradition harkening back to Roman and Greek colonies in the Adriatic. After touring the vineyards with Goran Radevic, the owner, I relished pours and light bites in his cozy cellar bar. Radevic’s expressions of Montenegro’s two flagship grapes — vranac, an ancient red related to zinfandel; and krstač, a crisp, floral white — are masterful. Pomegranates and olives grow alongside the vines, a coexistence that makes it easy to conjure the fruity and briny notes in the wines. Radevic’s brandy, aged in Slavonian oak barrels, is also superb.

Photo: Bianca Resort

Bianca Resort & Spa in Kolašin is a comfy and convenient base camp for mountain adventures. The hotel’s decor evokes an Alpine chalet, with rooms embellished with exposed wood and plush blankets. The breakfast buffet of charcuterie, pickles, and yogurts is not to be skipped. Find a commendable selection of Montenegrin wines and international spirits in the lobby bar.

Kotor

From Kolašin, it’s a two-hour car ride from the mountains to the small town of Kotor. Rather than a gradual decline, the mountains collide headlong into the sea, and panoramic views of Kotor Bay grace every turn of the high-altitude road. Like the northern section of the Pacific Coast Highway or Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park, the drive is so sublime as to make two hours feel too brief.

Photo: Nancy Pauwel /Shutterstock

Kotor’s Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a polished limestone warren interspersed with flagstone plazas, stately churches, and al fresco cafes. Kotor was part of the Roman province of Dalmatia, and like the Dubrovnik and Zadar Dalmatian ports in Croatia, Kotor is surrounded by thick ramparts segmented by magnificently decorated gates.

Spend the morning getting lost in Kotor’s twisting alleys, a medieval maze animated with bakeries, cafes, and craft shops. Kotor Cathedral (or the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon), a church built in 1166, and the Church of St. Luke, also from the 12th century, are postcard-worthy landmarks. The bounty of the Adriatic defines Kotor’s cuisine, and notable delicacies include buzara (a fisherman’s stew of mussels, prawns, and clams simmered in white wine broth) and crni rižot (squid ink risotto).

Left, Captain Ivan; right, Our Lady of the Rocks. Photos: Johnny Motley

The Bay of Kotor — a narrow harbor with watery fingers snaking into the interior mountains — is often compared to a Scandinavian fjord. However, the geological formation is technically a ria, which is a bay formed by oceanic activity. You’ll need a boat to explore Kotor Bay’s fishing outposts, islets, and villages, and you can’t go wrong with the Kotor Boat Cruise with Captain Ivan. Ivan is a well-known fishing guide, but even when the fish don’t bite, the views and onboard cooler of beer and rakija make the excursion a blast. The boat tour concludes at Our Lady of the Rocks, a picturesque chapel on an islet where 15th-century fishermen allegedly saw an apparition of the Virgin Mary.

Perast

Photo: Johnny Motley

“When you dip your finger in Perast harbor, you touch the entire world.” The proverb alludes to Perast’s former life as a thriving Adriatic entrepôt, where busy markets attracted merchants from every nook of the Mediterranean and beyond. The city’s elegant towers, leonine statuary, and Baroque architecture harken back to an era when the Venetian Empire controlled the city.

Even after a road trip in Japan, I ate some of the most delicious raw fish of recent memory in Perast at Fish Restaurant Đardin. Grab a table next to the water, order a chilled bottle of krstač, and relish a crudo platter of octopus, shrimp, tuna, and clams — fruits of the sea caught hours before hitting your plate.

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Mingle with European celebrities and aristocrats at The One&Only Portonovi, arguably the most opulent hotel in the Balkans. In the same elite echelon as Aman and Ritz-Carlton Reserve, The One&Only blends impeccable luxury with local design and artwork. Every detail at The One&Only is meticulously considered, from the local gin served at the bars, to the first-in-class espresso machines in the rooms, to the expertly curated wine lists in the restaurants. The One&Only has three gourmet restaurants on their property that focus on Italian, Japanese, and Montenegrin cuisines. If you need a respite from rich indulgences, the One&Only’s gym, a facility worthy of the Olympic Training Center, awaits.

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Southwest Will Have Passengers Prepare for Landing Earlier Due to Turbulence Injuries

Southwest Airlines is prioritizing passenger safety by adjusting its in-flight service procedures. Beginning December 4, the airline will conclude food and beverage service earlier in flights, aiming to have passengers seated and buckled up at least ten minutes before landing. The seatbelt sign will now be switched on at 18,000 feet instead of 10,000. The change comes after increasing concern over turbulence-related injuries.

As climate patterns shift and the weather becomes more unpredictable, we’ve seen increased reports of physical injuries to passengers and crew members due to turbulence. The trend and recent high-profile incidents have prompted airlines to re-evaluate their safety protocols.

In May 2024, a Singapore Airlines flight from London to Singapore encountered severe turbulence, resulting in the tragic death of one passenger and injuries to 104 others. The aircraft experienced a rapid descent of over 6,000 feet in just three minutes. And although that was an extreme case, according to a 2021 study by the National Transportation Safety Board turbulence-related incidents accounted for over a third of all aviation accidents between 2009 and 2018.

By implementing the new proactive measures, Southwest Airlines aims to minimize the risk of turbulence-related injuries. By allowing more time for passengers to secure themselves in their seats, the airline can better prepare for potential turbulence encounters.

“It is the result of the airline’s close collaboration with its Labor partners and a robust approach to Safety Management. Nothing is more important to Southwest Airlines than the safety of our customers and employees,” says Southwest in a statement to USA Today.

This change will likely not change the passenger experience. Unless you’re taking a very short flight and like to take your time sipping a coffee, the protocol will almost go unnoticed. We could see other airlines following suit in an attempt to reduce the likelihood of turbulence-related incidents.

If you are anxious about turbulence, you might want to consider where you sit on an aircraft. Research suggests the middle seat directly over the wing offers the smoothest ride. Imagine a seesaw: the closer you are to the pivot point, the less you’ll feel the up-and-down motion. An aircraft’s wing also acts as a stabilizer, minimizing the impact of air pockets on the cabin. You’ll experience a more level flight by sitting directly above this stabilizer.

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One of the Most Iconic Airports in the World Is Getting a Major Upgrade

Airports these days aren’t always the most fun places to be, but in 1962, one airport was the epitome of architectural glamour.

Dulles International Airport (IAD) serves the nation’s capital city of Washington, DC, (though it’s technically in northern Virginia). It’s one of the oldest major airports still in existence, opened in 1962 and started years before that. It was the first airport in the US built to accommodate jetliners, and was truly iconic in design. Its architect was one of the most famous architects in history: the renowned Eero Saarinen, who gave the main terminal its sweeping roofline that remains today even today as of the best examples of mid-century architecture on a public scale. Saarinen also designed other world-famous buildings, like the TWA Hotel in New York and the Gateway Arch in St. Louis, MO.

Dulles still uses cars with drivers to move passengers between terminals. Photo: Thomas Barrat/Shutterstock

Spanning more than 13,000 acres, Dulles is one of the largest airports in the United States by land area and is the primary airport for DC. But its age is starting show, especially as it still uses “mobile lounges,” in some terminals, also called people movers: square-shaped vehicles with drivers that transport passengers on the tarmac between terminals. But in about one year, a new $500 million terminal will open, creating 14 new gates for United Airlines (though it could cost up to $800 million). Some parts of the original airport building are somewhat small — built in 1962, when just under 60,000 people per year were moving through the airport– but the new terminal will be airy and roomy. The United lounge alone will cover 40,000 feet, and the new terminal will be 435,000 square feet.

A rendering of the new Dulles Airport expansion, planned to open in 2026. Photo: Metropolitan Washington Airport Authority

While $500 to $800 million may seem steep, it’s just a drop in the bucket for what’s eventually planned. Over the next 15 years, a mix of public and private development will bring more than $9 billion in funding to the airports, including $7 million more for Dulles and $2 billion for DCA, or Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport (often just called “National.”)

The history of Dulles Airport

 

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Eero Saarinen’s design for Dulles International Airport was groundbreaking at the time, representing the perceived motion and futurism of the jet age. Engineers created a suspended roof structure with very narrow, slender concrete columns, creating a sense of brightness and open space that was both unique and architecturally ahead of its time. The main arrival terminal features nearly floor-to-ceiling walls, filling the space with natural light, even when it’s crowded.

Dulles was also one of the first airports to implement what airlines call “Common Use Passenger Processing Systems” (or CUPPS), allowing airlines to share check-in counters. It means more airlines can operate in a smaller space, effectively allowing Dulles to host more flights and more airlines without sacrificing additional floor space to check-in counters. Today, Dulles serves about 12 million passengers per year, operating direct flights to destinations as far-reaching as Dakar, Senegal; Beijing, China; and Nice, France.

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The Best Way to See the Monuments in DC? Rent an E-Bike for a Night-Time Solo Tour

The idea to tour the sights of the National Mall in Washington, DC, at night, by e-bike, came from being unable to sleep. Lying awake in my room at The River Inn in the Foggy Bottom neighborhood, I decided to get out and see the city. I was in town for a few days of reporting on environmental lobbying efforts on Capitol Hill, and knew that I wouldn’t have much time for sightseeing. This, my first night in town, was likely the only chance. Walking from the Metro station to the hotel earlier, I’d passed by heaps of e-bikes awaiting their next rider. I am, admittedly, an e-bike evangelist, so I took this late-night opportunity to head out on two (assisted) wheels to see what I could see.

The city is lined with protected bike lanes and paths, including an excellent one along the Potomac River. Once on the National Mall, bike-friendly paths are everywhere, and the perk of doing the tour at night is that there are far fewer people around. Rather than constantly weaving around pedestrians and street vendors, I largely had the paths to myself the entire time. At popular sights like the Lincoln Memorial and the Washington Monument, there were a few people – but I had no issue seeing what I wanted to see up close and then moving on.

How to rent an e-bike in Washington, DC

Photo: John Doe/Shutterstock

Just outside my hotel were multiple bike options to choose from. Lime operates e-bikes rentals throughout the capital, parked randomly throughout town much as the company’s scooters are. There were a few of these within a block of my hotel, and I was delighted to learn I could rent one through my Uber account. Also available throughout town is the Capital Bikeshare, a city-sponsored bikeshare program that stocks e-bikes at designated racks throughout the city center. Though I chose the Lime bike for this excursion, I rented multiple bikes from Capital Bikeshare throughout my time in DC.

It cost $1 to unlock the bike and 15 cents per minute to rent the Lime e-bike. In total, my ride cost $39. This is the same price as Capital Bikeshare, though if you’re a member that price is slightly lower at 10 cents per minute following the $1 fee to unlock.

Routing an e-bike tour of the National Mall

Screenshot from Google Maps by Tim Wenger

Foggy Bottom is northwest of the National Mall. As such, I began my monument tour by pedaling southeast on 26th Street. NW towards Virginia Avenue. I then dipped south onto 23rd Street, past the US Institute of Peace and onto the National Mall. My first stop was the Lincoln Memorial. I pedaled around the back of the memorial and parked my bike on the south side. From there I proceeded on foot up the steps to see the Big Guy himself.

From there I did a full circle around the reflecting pool, of course stopping to remember all the famous movie scenes and iconic news photos that have happened here. I stopped again at the Korean War Veterans Memorial. I then pedaled along the south side of the pool to the World War II Memorial, and onto the Washington Monument. The map embed below is the suggested route by Google Maps, though note that the route I took (pictured in the above screenshot) showcases a bit more of the city.

After seeing these sights, I felt like cruising for a bit. I pedaled through the rest of the National Mall, past the United States Botanic Garden, and took Maryland Avenue over the highway to the Peace Monument. I could see the lights on the Capitol Building this entire stretch of the ride, and though I had that as my unofficial target, I had no idea what to expect at the building itself – obviously, I couldn’t go inside, it was inspiring to ride behind the building past the Garfield Memorial and to the Peace Monument, where I stopped for a few minutes to rest and plan my route back to Foggy Bottom. Much of what I hadn’t seen on the National Mall was in the middle and largely consisted of the Smithsonian Museums, some of which I intended to visit if time allowed throughout my stay, but that wasn’t on the docket for tonight.

Instead, I decided to ride past the White House and to McPherson and Farragut Squares en route to The River Inn. This brought me up Pennsylvania Avenue to 15th Street, where I hung a right and rode up to I Street, where I met McPherson Square. I pedaled through Farragut Square and hit the Washington Circle roundabout, then took New Hampshire Avenue back in to the hotel off 25th Street.

How to plan for an e-bike tour of the National Mall

Photo: Maximin Stock /Shutterstock

The entire ride took about 90 minutes, including stopping to check out the sights along the way. With detours not noted on the map, like the jaunt I took down to the Potomac, I ended up cruising about 12 miles, though the route itself is only about seven. It’s largely flat, and because I was on an e-bike the entire time, I didn’t exert a whole lot of effort – though the bike itself was a Level 1 pedal assist, so I did burn a few calories.

If you opt for a bike from Capital Bikeshare, there are racks where you can return or pick up a bike throughout the route, including one near the National Museum of Asian Art and another just south across Independence Avenue. From where I started, the closest was the pickup point at New Hampshire Avenue just south of Washington Circle, a couple blocks from The River Inn.

I visited in September and the weather was nice – it was about 65 degrees during my ride. However, temperatures and conditions can fluctuate, so bring warmer riding clothes in a backpack in case you need to add or remove a layer at any point.

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More People Than Ever Rode Amtrak Trains in 2024

If you’re thinking of taking a train trip soon, you’re probably not the only one. For the past two years, rail travel has been experiencing a significant rise in popularity, filling up trains with travelers all over the world. Earlier this year, Eurail, the biggest name in the world of European train travel, told Matador Network that 2023 was its biggest year on record, with more than 1,237,000 Interrail and Eurail passes sold, a 25 percent growth from 2022. But it’s not just Europe seeing a rail revival. In a December 3 press release, Amtrak reports that 2024 broke ridership records, too.

Amtrak welcomed 32.8 million riders in its trains in 2024, a 15 percent growth from 2023, and the most customers that the National Railroad Passenger Corporation has ever seen in its 53 years in existence.

While we don’t know why more people decided to ride the rails in 2023 and 2024, what we do know is that traveling by train is a greener choice than traveling by plane, with train travel emitting significantly less CO2 per passenger than flying. Something all travelers should keep in mind when planning trips.

That said, it’s undeniable that riding the rail in the US tends to be more time-consuming that flying, especially on long-distance routes, but it’s an exercise in slow travel, and an adventure that many seem to be keen to try, despite the long delays Amtrak is known for.

According to a report by Amtrak, in 2023, all 15 of the railroad company’s long-distance routes, and 15 of the 24 state-supported routes, failed to meet the Federal Railroad Administration’s punctuality standard. Most of the delays, however, can be attributed to freight train interference. In 2023, freight trains caused an incredible 1.5 years of delay to Amtrak trains.

“Breaking our ridership record is just the beginning,” said Amtrak CEO Stephen Gardner. “This record ridership shows that travelers throughout the US want efficient travel options, and we are committed to meeting that demand.”

To satisfy customer demand, this past November, Amtrak launched a new route, The Floridian, bringing a daily and direct train service between Chicago and Miami. And in 2025, also by popular demand, Amtrak will restart the route between New Orleans and Mobile, which was suspended in August 2005 after Hurricane Katrina.

“We are modernizing our network and fleet so we can make every journey with Amtrak world-class,” said Amtrak President Roger Harris. “As we build for the future, our investments in new equipment, expanded service, and critical infrastructure will continue to elevate the experience from coast to coast.”

Amtrak’s rolling stock is in the process of being renewed, with 28 next-generation high-speed trains on order to replace the current Acela fleet, and Amtrak Airo trains, the first one of which will enter passenger service in 2026, to replace the current fleet on 14 long-distance overnight routes.

Amtrak hopes to double its ridership to 66 million customers by 2040.

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Mexico’s New Tax on Cruise Ship Passengers Could Add a Big Cost to Your Next Trip

In a move that’s left the cruise industry reeling, Mexico’s Congress has voted for a new tax of $42 per cruise passenger on a ship docking at a Mexican port. This new levy could take effect as early as next month. And if you’re thinking, “That’s fine, I’ll stay on board,” there will be no avoiding this extra charge. Whether you disembark or not, all passengers will need to pay $42. Previously, cruise passengers were exempt from tourist taxes under the “in-transit” provision of the Non-Migrant Rights policy.

The cruise industry has expressed significant concern over this new tax, fearing it could negatively impact the popularity of Mexican destinations. The Florida-Caribbean Cruise Association (FCCA) has criticized the decision, stating that it will make Mexican ports significantly more expensive than other Caribbean destinations.

Mexico is home to some of the most popular cruise ports in the world. According to the Florida and Caribbean Cruise Association (FCCA), over 10 million passengers visit the country by cruise each year, which means a potential extra $42 million in revenue for the Mexican government.

In a statement, Michele Paige, CEO of the FCCA, expressed surprise at the sudden and unilateral decision to eliminate the in-transit exemption. She highlighted the short notice provided to the industry, which could lead to confusion and inconvenience for travelers, especially those who have already booked their cruises for 2025.

While many popular tourist destinations have implemented fees to address overtourism, the allocation of funds in Mexico’s case raises questions. Two-thirds of the revenue from the new tax will go to fund the Mexican army rather than being used to improve port infrastructure or enhance the visitor experience.

Another concern is that Mexico’s cruise tourism industry significantly contributes to the country’s economy. According to the Mexican Association of Shipping Agents (AMANAC), the cruise industry has created 20,000 jobs in the country. It’s a valid concern that imposing this new tax could deter cruise lines from choosing Mexican ports, leading to a potential decline in visitor numbers and an economic impact.

The $42 per person fee for travelers represents a substantial additional cost, especially for families. If you’re traveling with a family of four, that will cost you an extra $168. Cruise operators will likely collect the new levy.

Industry experts are urging a more collaborative approach between the government, cruise lines, and travel agencies to find sustainable solutions that protect both the environment and the economic interests of the destination.

“I think it’s reasonable for us all — the government, the cruise lines, and travel retailers like myself — to have a discussion of what can we do to protect these beautiful places that we sell,” Ferrara says. “I’m hopeful there will be a better solution.”

Canada Is Giving Free Flights to the Great White North to “burnt Out Americans”

Americans are known the world over for their dedication to their work. In fact, they are so committed to their jobs and careers that they barely take any time off. According to a 2023 report from the Pew Research Center, 46 percent of US. workers who are entitled to paid time off take less than they are offered. But everyone needs a break from time to time, even the most devoted US worker, and Canada is here to help.

After the frenzy of the presidential election and the stress of Thanksgiving, Destination Canada and flag carrier Air Canada are teaming up to offer free flights to overworked and “burnt out Americans” in dire need of some rest and relaxation away from their compatriots, family members, and colleagues.

All legal residents of the 50 US states and DC who are at least 21 years of age can enter Destination Canada’s SnOOOw Day contest to win two economy round-trip tickets, courtesy of Air Canada. There is a total of 100 round-trip flights to win, one for you and one for the travel companion of your choice.

All you have to do participate is to fill out a form with your basic personal information, and afterwards you can play around with SnOOOw Day’s Out Of Office email generator to mentally prepare yourself to your upcoming, no-work-allowed vacation in Canada.

The Out Of Office email generator will also help you choose the Canadian destination and activities that work best for you, whether that is visiting French-speaking Quebec in winter, partaking in some urban exploring in trendy Vancouver, or learning more about Indigenous traditions on an outdoor trip in Alberta. Canada and its huge variety of landscapes, weather, people, and traditions has something to offer to every type of traveler.

The contest can be entered until December 20, 2024, and the 50 winners will be notified in January 2025. Despite the name of the contest, the lucky Americans who get free flights to Canada won’t have to travel to in the winter, but will be able to pick a date between January 2025 and March 2026 for their jaunt across the 49th Parallel.

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Meet the 13 Best Boys and Girls of US Airport Security

If you’ve ever been waiting for your luggage at a US airport and seen a TSA or airport security dog go by, you’ve probably wondered exactly what their jobs are. But you may be surprised to learn just how many different detection, security, and sniffing roles are available to different dogs. For example, Dodo in Portland, OR, sniffs out suspicious materials, while Kipper puts her luscious locks to work in sunny San Diego, CA.

Who are Dodo and Kipper, you ask? They’re two of thirteen of the goodest boys and girls working for the US Transportation Safety Administration (TSA) selected for the 2025 TSA Canine Calendar. And that means these smart pups may have to learn to start signing autographs (paw-tographs?), because each dog has a full-color spread in the calendar. Every month includes not just a glamor shot of each dog, but also additional “photos and fun facts about these canine heroes.” The calendar is available online and is completely free to download. While that’s not as good as getting to pet the dogs in real life, it’s a close second.

Dodo is both a champion sniffer, and champion napper. Photo: TSA Canine Calendar

The TSA employees more than 1,000 working dogs across the country, trained in four different roles: passenger screening canines, explosive detection canines, vapor wake canines, and specialized screening canines, though there are multiple roles within each of those distinctions. Dogs can use their excellent senses of smell to sniff out substances like illegal drugs, explosive materials, or certain remnant gases. Dogs may walk with their handlers around check-in areas at airports, or scan luggage as it comes off conveyer belts in the arrival section. Dogs can also be used behind the scenes to detect suspicious luggage and cargo, or may even be used to check individuals as they enter the country or move through security checks.

If you don’t use the calendar for date keeping, you can use it for hair inspiration. Photo: TSA Canine Calendar

The majority of TSA’s dogs (and all the dogs in the TSA canine calendar) are large breeds like German shepherds, labradors, and pointers, many of whom can be adopted by the public after they retire. Other agencies tend to use smaller dogs known for their excellent noses, including the US Department of Agriculture, which uses primarily beagles and beagle mixes to detect contraband agricultural items. But regardless of what agency the dogs are working for, the most successful four-legged officers are those with a high combination of intelligence, temperament, and ease of training (and a strong sense of smell, of course). Most dogs are there to keep airports safe from explosives and other security threats, not to bust travelers who may have had a little marijuana in their bag at some point.

Bruno loves both sniffing out danger, and playing with his squeaky Kong Wubba toy. Photo: TSA Canine Calendar

The 2025 TSA canine calendar is full of fun facts like these, as well as information about the history of the canine program and some useful packing and traveling tips. But the best facts are those about the dogs themselves — did you know Barni of California’s San Francisco International Airport also won 2024’s TSA “Cutest Canine” contest? If you’re wondering how they decide which dogs made the cut, you may be happy to know nearly all the nominees are included toward the end in a round-up of TSA’s fluffiest officers.

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You Can Spend Months at Sea With Virgin Voyages’ New All-You-Can-Cruise Annual Pass

After the success of Virgin Voyages’ Summer Season Pass which, when it first launched in 2024, sold out in just two days, the cruise line is introducing its Annual Pass.

Virgin Voyages’ Annual Pass grants holders unlimited cruising for 365 days on any of the cruise line’s four ships (including the Brilliant Lady debuting in September 2025), and on any of their itineraries, whether that be sailings in the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, North America, Alaska, Europe, and even transatlantic crossings.

Virgin Voyages Annual Pass is the first of its kind in the cruising industry.

The pass is available for purchase now and until March 31, 2025. Pass holders can choose between four starting dates for their Annual Pass: January 1, February 1, March 1, or April 1, 2025.

While the cruise line’s website states that “there are a limited number of Annual Passes”, in an email conversation, a spokesperson for Virgin Voyages explains “we’re currently not capping how many passes we’re offering.”

The Annual Pass, which includes complimentary laundry, premium WiFi, a $100 bar tab for each itinerary, and two specialty coffees per day, is meant to appeal to those who can work remotely and ditch their rentals to spend one year at sea. Note that shore excursions are not included in the pass but that pass holders get priority access to select Shore Things.

Needless to say that in purchasing this pass, travelers aren’t signing up for a dreary inside cabin. Pass holders get a Sea Terrace cabin with a square footage ranging from 185 to 225 square feet, and a balcony from where pas can take in the sea views.

The best part of the pass, however, is likely the fact that its price of $120,000 (plus taxes) includes a plus-one, whom you can change as many times as you want throughout the year.

While $60,000 per year per person remains a hefty price, when you include all the perks, it’s much lower than other long-term cruises, including Royal Caribbean’s famous Ultimate World Cruise, which cost between $54,000 and $117,000 per person for a nine-month period, and most much shorter world cruises.

If you can’t swing such a big sum, you can opt for the cruise line’s Summer Season Pass, which is back for 2025. The Summer Season Pass offers the same benefits as the Annual Pass but for a much shorter period: from 24 to 40 nights, starting at $14,999.

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This Adults-Only Hotel Encapsulates The Best of Spain’s Costa Brava

Since hearing about the “Wild Coast” of Spain, I felt drawn to the northeastern corner of Catalonia. The Costa Brava is a 140-mile clutch of rocky swimming coves backed by stone pine and fig trees misting over the remnants of medieval watchtowers. Camí de Ronda walking trails skirt the craggy cliffs and crumbling tunnels once patrolled by frontier guards as they rounded up smugglers.

Cala del Pi Beach Resort, an adults-only Sallés Hotel, sits on a bluff at the northern end of Platja d’Aro and is named for the itty-bitty cove below the overhang. The hotel is set back enough from town to guarantee peace and quiet during high season, but not so far back as to feel disconnected. As part of the Empordà region, this five-star seaside hotel is a base for wine tourism as well as hiking, cycling, and sailing.

We hope you love Cala del Pi Beach Resort! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.

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Modern Mediterranean rooms with a view

Photo courtesy Casa del Pi

When in the Med, never say “no” to a sea view. I was left speechless watching the sun rise and set from the balcony of my Deluxe Sea View Room. At night, I left the balcony doors open to benefit from a soothing breeze and soundtrack of waves. Although rooms have blackout blinds, I left these open to enjoy dawn wake-up calls.

The decor had a nautical touch with a sand and pebble gray palette; hardwood flooring and corrugated wood panels added warmth and texture. The rest of the hotel carries a subtle marine theme through carvings of sea creatures and glass chandeliers that made me think of shoals. Some areas sported countryside artifacts, harking back to the building’s original purpose as a masia, or traditional farmhouse.

All 49 rooms come with a terrace and most have a sea view but there are a few exceptions. Waking up to a sea view was a highlight of my stay, followed swiftly by a nightly spa circuit.

Rest, relaxation, and wildness at Cala del Pi Beach Resort

Photo courtesy Casa del Pi

Cala del Pi Beach Resort pulled out all the stops with its spa: 600 square meters (6,458 square feet) of twinkling aquamarine mosaics, handsome terracotta columns, and jetted gizmos. Hotel guests have two hours of complimentary use each day whereas non-residents can enter for a fee of €40 (about $42). The suite features a large pool with hydrotherapy beds, cannons, and massaging waterfalls.

There’s also a hot tub (almost made redundant by the pool), foot spa, dry sauna, steam room, and a trio of therapeutic showers. Guests can flit between the facilities or follow the suggested spa circuit. I visited the spa each evening and rated the nighttime ambiance; daytime visitors will appreciate the sunlight trickling in through the glass roof.

The hotel has three tiered outdoor pools surrounded by Mediterranean foliage. The largest – and deepest – almost creates the illusion of an infinity pool. The hotel’s “Yoguilates” and “Aquayoga” classes are free for guests. There are three weekly classes in summer and one per week in winter.

Cala del Pi is one of the prettiest Costa Brava beaches in Platja d’Aro. This cove has a mix of sand and fine pebbles plus natural diving boards popular with local daredevils in summer. Even during fall, I could splash around without catching a chill.

This public beach is shared by hotel guests and the Platja d’Aro community who turn up on evenings to kick a ball around. As the Camí de Ronda crosses through the beach, there is a steady flow of long-distance and day hikers passing by. After countless jaunts down to the beach, I can confirm the hotel’s private passage has fewer steps than the public path.

Mediterranean dining à deux

Photo: Hannah D. Cooper

The adults-only Restaurante Aurum serves Catalan cuisine to a Costa Brava seascape. There’s a well-rounded selection of shellfish and many fish dishes are infused with Iberian cuts. Around a third of the dishes are designed to share between two – after all, this is a hotel for romancing.

After a day spent vaulting over boulders and grazing on bocadillos, all I wanted to do was conk out on my balcony and catch the last hour of daylight. Room service, it was. The truffle risotto was thick with Iberian pork and nutty porcini. On the side, I pecked at tomato-rubbed bread and was glad I left room for a lip-smacking Manchego cheesecake.

The air had an autumnal nip to it during my November stay but I was perfectly content to sit outside on the terrace for breakfast each morning and imagine what a sweet spot this must be in summer. The buffet spread was Mediterranean through and through: I piled my plate with grilled asparagus and bell peppers, drizzled olive oil over crusty bread, and nibbled on cold cuts and pastries. Besides a selection of zumo de naranja, there were bottles of cava and light white wines from the Empordà hills.

The bars and restaurants of Platja d’Aro are within tottering distance of Cala del Pi Beach Resort. A taxi takes just five minutes.

Getting around the Costa Brava

Photo: kavalenkava /Shutterstock

Just south of the midway point between Portbou and Blanes, the hotel’s location in the heart of the Costa Brava can’t be beat. It’s helpful but not essential to have a car in Empordà – it streamlines getting around the inland villages and seaside towns. As the Costa Brava and Girona Pyrenees are a major cycling destination in Spain, the region has great infrastructure for road and mountain bikes. Cala del Pi Beach Resort has ample parking and bike storage.

Regional buses are operated by Moventis and tend to be at least an hour apart; seasonal schedules are displayed at bus stops and posted online. It’s wise to pre-book tickets during summer but otherwise, they can be purchased at bus stations and onboard. The fastest buses to Platja d’Aro from Girona take around an hour and Girona-Costa Brava Airport is 30 minutes away.

Cala del Pi Beach Resort can assist with curating Empordà wine tours and private sailing excursions. The Wild Coast is by far the most adventurous of the Spanish costas, and while it would be tempting to hole up for a week of sunning and spa-ing, it would do the region a disservice.

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