Matador Network's Blog, page 80
December 11, 2024
Air France Brought in a Michelin Star Chef to Make the Most Indulgent French Meals in the Air

Flying Air France La Première, the airline’s First-Class experience, is likely the most luxurious way to travel by plane. Not only do you get personalized service starting from your home or hotel and throughout the airport, but you also get your own large, curtained off room in the aircraft. The seat, which resembles an armchair, is of course, outrageously large and converts into a comfortable bed, but sleeping isn’t the best use of your time when flying La Première. You want to be wide awake to try out the Michelin-starred food instead.
For the best part of a decade, Air France has been collaborating with French Michelin Star chefs and renowned pastry chefs for its First-Class menus. In the past, the likes of Daniel Boulud, Anne-Sophie Pic, Arnaud Lallement, Michel Roth, Dominique Crenn, and Nina Métayer have partnered with the airline to offer its guests the best inflight culinary experience possible.
Starting in December 2024, passengers in La Première will order from a seasonal menu designed by triple Michelin-starred chef Emmanuel Renault, and award-winning pastry chef Claire Heitzler.





Emmanuel Renault, has created five starters and eight main dishes that are oh-so-French and sound oh-so-delicious. Think Beaufort cheese soufflé; cream of mushroom with truffles; and foie gras with salsify, blueberry, and onion chutney for starters. For the entrées, the chef created, among others, polenta with wild mushrooms, spinach, and mountain cheese; and scallops quenelle with tangy cream sauce and root vegetables.
For those who don’t have a French culinary dictionary handy, let me explain a few of the terms listed above:
Beaufort is a type of cheese from the French Alps made from raw cow’s milkSalsify is a root vegetableQuenelle is a mixture of fish or meat, cream, butter, egg, and breadcrumb that is poached and shaped like an egg with spoonsClaire Heitzler created seven deserts for the First-Class cabin, including a French regional specialty, the Castanéa, a dessert with Ardèche chestnuts and Corsican clementines; and a triple chocolate cloud, a dessert of crunchy chocolate shortbread and creamy dark chocolate.
It’s not the first time that Renault collaborates with Air France. In November 2023, he created eight main dishes inspired by his native French Alps for La Première, including farmhouse chicken confit with mushrooms and a vegetable mille-feuille; and a vegetarian dish or creamy blend of root vegetables, button mushrooms, porcini mushrooms and Beaufort.
For those who can’t afford to fly First Class with Air France, there are menus designed by award-winning chefs in Business Class and Premium Economy, too. The choice is just a little more limited. I personally tried one of the two dishes that Michelin-starred chef Frederic Simonin created for the Premium Economy cabin earlier this year, and it was the best food I’ve ever has in an airplane.
If you decide to book a First-Class seat for your next Air France flight to test out the elegant French food on offer, note that only specific routes are fitted with La Première cabins. In the winter of 2024, the La Première cabin is available on a selection of Boeing 777-300s that fly from Paris-Charles de Gaulle to Abidjan (Côte d’Ivoire), Dubai (United Arab Emirates), Los Angeles, Miami, New York-JFK, San Francisco, Washington-DC (US), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Singapore, and Tokyo-Haneda (Japan).
Japan Airlines Will Deliver Your Luggage Straight to Your Tokyo Hotel

Japan Airlines has launched a new luggage delivery service that will save you from having to lug your belongings on public transport upon arrival in Tokyo. The same-day service is available to anyone arriving at Haneda Airport Terminal 3, regardless of whether you flew in with the airline. The initiative was set up to help with congestion on public transport in the city, and I can’t help but wonder why other airlines at capital cities are not offering a similar solution.
I challenge anyone who claims to enjoy traveling on public transport while burdened with heavy luggage. Between working out the route, contending with commuters and locals who could do without your hardshell wheeled luggage taking up vital space, and navigating stairs and escalators — never mind adding in jetlag and kids — public transport after a long flight is simply hellish.
Japan’s leading airline launched its genius solution on December 5, 2024. The service, priced at a reasonable $29 per suitcase, is available to international and national travelers arriving at Haneda Airport’s Terminal 3.
The airline’s primary goal with this initiative is to address the congestion challenges in Tokyo’s public transportation system. By providing a seamless and efficient luggage delivery service, Japan Airlines seeks to enhance the overall travel experience for foreign visitors, ensuring you can make the most of your time in the city.
The same-day delivery service covers a wide range of popular districts in Tokyo, including Shinjuku, Shinagawa, Chiyoda, Chuo, Minato, Koto, Ota, Shibuya, Taito, Toshima, Bunkyo, Sumida, Meguro, and Edogawa. So, most major hotels throughout the city are included.
In true Japanese fashion, the service is easy to use. First, you must pick up your belongings from the luggage belt. Unfortunately, they have not managed to eliminate that step, but this could be due to security reasons. After you’ve got your belongings, you’ll then reserve and pay for the delivery at the JAL ABC counter in the arrival lobby. Once the reservation is complete, a baggage sticker is issued and attached to the suitcase, which is checked at the same counter, and you’re free to explore Tokyo sans baggage.
There is a time limit to this service, however. The desk is open from 4:00 AM to 6:00 PM, so those arriving on an evening flight will be out of luck — that said, if you were arriving at a later hour, you’ll likely opt for a taxi rather than the subway. For those who check in luggage before 4:00 PM, delivery is guaranteed by 8:00 PM, and bags registered between 4:00 PM and 6:00 PM will be at the hotel by 10:00 PM.
The introduction of same-day luggage delivery is just one of the recent initiatives undertaken by Japan Airlines to help over-tourism in Japan. In September, the airline announced a complimentary domestic flight offer for international passengers, further incentivizing exploration of the country’s diverse regions.
What I Packed for a One Week Ski Vacation in the French Alps

To pack for a ski vacation, you’ll be faced with a mountain of gear that you’ll need to thin out by at least half. Annoyingly, snow apparel is bulky, and there’s no way around that other than investing in decent packing cubes to reduce volume. So my first tip, if you don’t have packing aids already, is to get onto Amazon and treat yourself to a set of mixed-sized compression bags. Read reviews first because price dictates the quality of zips, and there’s nothing more frustrating than a split zipper when you’re flying out the next day.
Another first-world problem with a European ski vacation is that they take après-ski to another level. My recent experience with Club Med, Tinges had a roster of evening events that encouraged themed outfits. If you’re cringing while reading this, I was, too. Packing my outdoor gear is one thing, but planning a chic color-coded wardrobe was quite another. Luckily, Club Med is pretty chill about theme suggestions (much like an all-inclusive cruise line), so I could mix and match many of my items to work for multiple nights. A smart high-waisted pair of jeans and tucked-in turtle neck with different accessories became a go-to, and the dresses and pair of healed boots I brought came home unworn because they were just too much, and I want to be comfortable (and warm) after a day on the slopes.
I traveled to France with a checked luggage limit of 50 lbs. Unless you purchase more, you’ll likely have the same. I was right on the nose with my limit, and other than the elegant evening wear I never used, I don’t think I could have packed smarter.
Here’s my travel-tested list of what to pack for a week-long ski vacation in France.
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What to pack for European ski tripBefore we get into my packing list, Club Med, Tinges offers a gear hire service. It can be a lot of work to navigate bulky skis, boots, and helmets, not to mention the added weight and stress at the airport, so opting to rent your kit is a huge benefit of staying at one of their properties. The resort offers a wide range of high-quality equipment from top brands. If you need clarification on which equipment is right for you, the staff at Club Med can provide expert advice. They’ll help you choose the perfect gear based on your skill level and preferences. The process is streamlined and efficient, so you can spend less time worrying about logistics and more time enjoying your holiday.

Photo: Katie Scott Aiton
On arrival, you’ll need to visit the ski pro shop, where you’ll be fitted for boots (if you didn’t bring your own), skis or board, and your helmet. Next to the shop, you’ll find changing rooms with lockers. Each guest has an allocated locker with a number corresponding to their room. This is where all your gear will be stored throughout your stay. When it’s time to go home, you leave the hired equipment in your locker and the staff will return it for you.
Despite my trip being at the beginning of the season, the conditions were excellent. We had fresh powder on day one and a nice dose of sun, which took the edge off the 17-degree air. When it comes to layers, I always have at least three. This approach allows me to adapt to fluctuating temperatures and weather conditions and ensures I’m always comfortable. For a base layer, I have a thermal merino long-sleeved top. Because I don’t own multiple, the one I brought was washed in my hotel room and dried quickly on the heated towel rail. I also did this with the set of gym gear I packed. This might seem like an extra step you’d rather not take, but it will significantly reduce the gear you need to bring. Also, keep in mind that many European resorts have self-service laundry facilities so that you can avoid the exorbitant price of room service laundry.
The gear list below served me well. On top of this, I brought the aforementioned gym gear, a swimsuit for the sauna and pool, evening wear, and some afternoon comfortable outfits, which, because Club Med ended up being more accepting of casual wear than I imagined, I often wore them into the evening for dinner and drinks.
Base Layers
Photo: REI
Smartwool’s thermals are not exactly cheap, but for the quality, you’ll find it hard to get anything under this price point. Crafted from 100 percent Merino wool, this base layer regulates body temperature, wicks moisture, and manages odor. Because Merino wool is also naturally odor-resistant, you can wear one for multi-day ski trips. They come in a range of colors. I have Twilight Blue and use these for all outdoor winter sports, from ice skating to cold weather hikes.
Buy Now: $115Outerwear
Your outerwear is another investment that will hopefully last you for a few years unless you’re a gearhead and want the latest gear to look uber-fashionable on the slopes. Looking stylish is not as high on my list as being practical, but luckily, I have a couple of essentials that tick both boxes. First is the Parmi Women’s Explore Jacket. If you don’t know Parmi, you might want to check them out. The company is based in Quebec and produces beautiful outdoor and sports gear. I used the Explore Jacket as my second padded layer in the snow. It’s also quickly becoming a go-to winter layer back home in Scotland for walks and running. You’ll also need waterproof salopettes. I fall back on The North Face, and I don’t think you’re just paying for the label. These are a solid choice; they fit perfectly and are not extortionate. That said, before this pair, I got some second-hand online, which is a no-brainer if you’re working with a tight budget.
Buy Parmi Women’s Explore Jacket: $238Buy The North Face Freedom Bibs: $220Mid-Layers
Photo: Katie Scott Aiton
Sweaters or fleece jackets serve as excellent mid-layers for skiing, providing additional warmth and insulation without adding bulk. RevolutionRace offers a range of high-quality, functional clothing designed for outdoor activities like skiing. Their layering system prioritizes comfort, performance, and durability; again, these are a staple in my household for all outdoor sports. My husband and I share our collection, and a medium size fits us both perfectly — we just have to worry about fighting over the favorite green fleece.
Buy Now: $59+Handwear
Photo: REI
A decent pair of gloves or mittens will elevate your entire ski vacation, especially if you’re someone like me who suffers from Raynaud’s. I also always carry backup hand warmers, which are not the best when holding poles but are fantastic to have in your pocket for use on lifts or between runs. I love The North Face Montana Ski Mittens. Their waterproof and breathable construction prevents moisture from seeping in, while the high-quality insulation traps heat, ensuring my hands stay cozy.
Buy Now: $65Footwear
Photo: REI
Warm socks are another essential for skiing as they provide insulation and comfort, protecting your feet from the cold and preventing blisters. Again, if you suffer in cold weather, you’re going to want to invest here. The Darn Tough Yeti Over-the-Calf Midweight Ski Socks are popular among skiers due to their exceptional warmth, durability, and comfort. These socks are crafted from Merino wool and offer superior insulation, moisture-wicking properties, and natural odor resistance. I also like that these are over the calf, giving me that extra length and support from ankle to knee.
Buy Now: $29Face Protection
Photo: REI
Face protection is crucial for skiing, safeguarding the face from the harsh elements of winter. Exposure to cold, wind, and sun can seriously damage the skin, especially after a few days on the slopes. When choosing a sunscreen for skiing, look for one with a broad-spectrum SPF of 30 or higher and choose a water-resistant and sweat-resistant sunscreen to ensure it stays effective even during intense sweat sesh on a black run. I also wear a gaiter. The Smartwool Thermal Merino Reversible Neck Gaiter is a great shout. Crafted from Merino wool, this gaiter can be worn in various ways: a neck gaiter, face mask, or beanie.
Buy Now: $32Headwear
You’ve also got to pack a stylish beanie. Even if you’re in a helmet, you’ll need a grab choice for walks around the resort and town. I also wear a headband under my helmet. This is personal preference, I know many might find that a headband slips down under the proactive shell, but that doesn’t bother me too much if I’m in a well-fitted helmet. Again, I turn to Parmi for this and have the Polar fleece lined one in dark green. It keeps my hair off my face and is stylish enough to wear to lunch after a morning session, too.
Buy Turtle Fur Freya Hat: $34Buy Parmi Headband: $45Eye Protection
Photo: REI
You can go wild in aisles and spend a fortune on ski goggles, but you really don’t need to. Unless you’re skiing all season, you can get away with a decent pair from Smith. They are gendered. The women’s are designed with a smaller frame. The compression-molded foam creates a draft-free seal, keeping wind and moisture out and ensuring a clear field of vision. The Fog-X anti-fog treatment further enhances visibility by preventing fogging, and the cylindrical dual lenses provide a wide field of view, allowing you to see more of the terrain and react quickly to changing conditions. Again, you’ll easily find second-hand goggles online, although in my experience you can run the risk of getting a pair with some wear and tear.
December 10, 2024
Experience the Quieter Side of Waikīkī Beach at This Five-Star Honolulu Hotel

For the second year in a row, Honolulu was named the most desirable place to live in the US by the Economist Intelligence Unit’s Global Liveability Index. Meanwhile, its iconic beach neighborhood, Waikīkī, has firmly shaken its reputation as a passé place to stay in Hawaiʻi, making the tropical city very much in vogue again among travelers. So it was a bit of a blow when I was met with gray skies and heavy rain in the state capital — albeit one that quickly softened after I stepped inside the Ka La‘i Waikīkī Beach.
A discerning hotel on the quieter side of Honolulu’s main hub
Photo: Keri Bridgwater
With its tasteful island decor — including all neutral fabrics and warm woods accented by tropical floral centerpieces and a palm-tree-framed panorama of downtown Honolulu – Ka La‘i’s sixth-floor lobby presents its wow factor in an understated, on-trend, quiet luxury sort of way. The hotel’s upside-down layout means guests are welcomed with a stunning view the moment they step into the reception area, not to mention more privacy than you get with the traditional ground-floor lobby arrangement. It’s quieter this way, too.
In fact, the whole hotel is located on the quieter end of Waikīkī (although it does have front-row seats to the Friday night fireworks from the nearby Hilton Hawaiian Village). Fort DeRussy Beach — a protected green space and the location of the US Army Museum of Hawaiʻi — is right across the road, while the shops and restaurants lining busy Kalākaua Avenue are still just steps away. Waikīkī Beach proper is a five-minute walk via the public access point on Kālia Road.
Despite having 462 residential-style suites and rooms spanning 38 stories, the hotel feels wonderfully intimate. The biggest social draw is the infinity pool, but even the mood there skews tranquil and relaxed. It makes sense that Ka La‘i is a recent addition to the hand-picked Hilton LXR portfolio of properties with distinguished service and an authentic connection to their destinations (Ka La‘i means “the path” in Hawaiian, signifying ties to the local culture). It’s a true hideaway in the heart of Honolulu’s most famous neighborhood.
The rooms at Ka La‘i Waikīkī Beach
Photo: Keri Bridgwater
When it comes to hotels, I’ve always been something of a room-only purist. As someone who rarely cooks at home, why would I want a kitchen taking up space when I’m traveling — or worse, ruining the aesthetic? Ka La‘i may have converted me.
My one-bedroom ocean-view suite had it all. There were two balconies with sun loungers and nice views of Fort DeRussy Beach and the Pacific Ocean. It had both a den-like area with a pullout sofa bed and dedicated writing desk and a generously sized living area with a TV, sofa, and armchair setup. And then there was the full-sized kitchen, kitted out with Wolf Gourmet appliances, a big fridge, a proper dishwasher, a Nespresso machine, and an impressive array of pans, pots, and Pyrex. I may have only used the kitchen to make myself coffee in the morning and a cup of tea before bed each night, but just the fact that it was there made the suite feel cozy and almost like being at home.
Having arrived from the rainy North Shore of O‘ahu covered in red mud from an impromptu flip-flop scramble on a hillside above Waimea Valley, I was also smitten with the washer-dryer I found tucked discreetly in the back of my huge walk-in closet. With no need to cherry-pick key pieces to have professionally laundered while wincing at the cost, I threw all of my gear into the wash (detergent and Bounce sheets provided), slipped into my Ka La‘i robe, eyed the Mojave Ghost amenities from Byredo approvingly, and tried to decide between running a bath in the Italian marble soaking tub or just having a quick shower.
Admittedly, the nightly rates for a Waikīkī pied-a-terre of this caliber are steep — around $700 midweek, plus a $40 daily resort fee for my one-bedroom ocean-view suite. That nudges the total to just over $1,000 for a premium oceanfront suite with three bedrooms on a higher floor. For a Grand Poobah penthouse with Diamond Head views, you’re looking at over $3,000.
However, the price point hits a very approachable high $300 mark for a city-view superior king and just under $500 for a partial ocean-view. With multiple room configurations — including a still-very-generously-sized studio and the obvious perks of having a kitchen, washer-dryer, and pullout sofa bed — it’s easy to see why Ka La‘i is so popular with families and longer-stay travelers from Europe and the UK who average around 10 nights at the hotel.
Plus, ahead of the building’s 15th anniversary next year, even more exciting things are coming to Ka La‘i with a redesign of its rooms, suites, and lobby by one of London’s buzziest designers.
The amenities Ka La‘i Waikīkī Beach
Photo: Keri Bridgwater
The wave-like strokes of a traditional lomi-lomi massage have been used by Hawaiians for centuries as a cure-all, making it a top choice for a treatment at Spa Ka La‘i. An intimate space with four treatment rooms, including a couples’ suite, the spa’s cocoon-like atmosphere felt welcoming and instantly relaxing when I arrived.
Everyone gets a cup of tea and a sweet treat in the lounge post-treatment, but if an hour-long massage just doesn’t cut it, book the Ka La‘i Experience Package, which tacks on a 60-minute facial. There’s also a small retail area stocked with the products used in treatments — including Natura Bissé from Spain and the organic Hawaiian beauty and skincare line Mālie, whose Koke’e Ōhi‘a is a wonderful aromatherapy oil massage upgrade – plus Ka La‘i merch like a cool terry cloth bucket hat and boxes of ‘Ohana Nui cookies for any gift shopping.

Photo: Ka La’i Waikīkī Beach
Just down the corridor, you’ll find the 24-hour fitness center on the floor below the hotel’s infinity pool and sun deck. Flanked by a dozen-plus sun loungers, and enjoying peekaboo city and Waikīkī Beach views, guests tend to ebb and flow here throughout the day. You’ll see early risers swimming laps in the morning, but most guests tend to start posting up just after 11 AM. Complimentary sunscreen is provided along with occasional snacks like mini ice creams. A later crowd then pops down for sundowner Mai Tais before dinner.
If getting sand between your toes is more of a priority, the ground floor concierge can set you up with a complimentary beach bag with towels and beach accessories like umbrellas and chairs, which are available for rent. Of course, the team can also assist with your other vacation needs, such as making a dinner reservation on-site at Wai‘olu Ocean Cuisine or booking a table at other spots across town.
The restaurants at Ka La‘i Waikīkī Beach
Photo: Keri Bridgwater
There are two restaurants at the hotel. You’ll invariably start the day on the terrace at In-Yo Café where the breakfast buffet tempts with fresh fruit, pastries, yogurt, hot plate items, Hawaiian favorites like mochi pancakes, and welcome Japanese staples like miso soup, fluffy white rice, pickled vegetables, and sweet slices of tamago. Made-to-order dishes like omelets and French toast are available from an à la carte menu.
Also nicely framed by downtown Honolulu views, the hotel’s breezy but elegant indoor-outdoor signature restaurant Wai‘olu Ocean Cuisine is open from 11 AM until 10 PM, making it a lovely choice for lunch but even more atmospheric for dinner with the city lights twinkling after dark. A showcase for locally sourced seafood, including Kauaʻi shrimp and Big Island abalone, the sashimi, nigiri, and sushi omakase menu is only served on Friday and Saturday. But the sushi rolls are excellent — the North Shore is a standout with its delicate mix of garlic shrimp, avocado, and kampachi (amberjack) garnished with garlic aioli and sweet-savory kabayaki sauce. From the main dinner menu, order the smoked kampachi dip with house-made taro chips followed by the miso roasted black cod, paired with your choice of beer, wine, cocktails, mocktails, or sake. If there’s room, round things off with the yuzu crème brulee.
Beyond the restaurants, poolside dining is available from 11 AM to 6 PM with pupus (appetizers), salads, and tropical drinks. There’s also a concise 24-hour room service menu (get the chicken katsu sandwich), and a private in-suite chef can be arranged upon request.
Things to do in Waikīkī and Honolulu
Photo: Keri Bridgwater
Honolulu is a timeless destination where the allure of 1960s Hawaii — think Mai Tais, surfboards, and the aloha spirit — still lingers. Nowhere is that more true than Waikīkī Beach. Yes, it gets crowded, and you’ll invariably end up sitting elbow to elbow on the sand. But with the crescent beach framed by iconic state monument Diamond Head, turquoise waters, and gentle waves, it’s a slice of tropical paradise whose magic continues to endure.
Rent a board and paddle out at beginner break Canoes, go for an outrigger ride, or stroll the shore at sunrise. For high-end retail therapy and only-in-Honolulu must-buys (see: the Stüssy chapter store) plus cultural performances and classes, head to the Royal Hawaiian Center a five-minute walk from the hotel. Seats at Aunty Macky’s lei-making table are first-come, first-served, so it pays to arrive early. Hula lessons in the Royal Grove gathering place are also a lot of fun.

Photo: Keri Bridgwater
For a deeper dive into Hawaii’s cultural and historical treasures, the Bishop Museum is an essential stop in Honolulu. A 20-minute rideshare from the hotel, its well-curated exhibits provide an excellent overview of the Hawaiian Islands’ Polynesian and local heritage. Home to Hawaiʻi’s last reigning monarchs – and the only royal residence in the US – Iolani Palace is well worth a visit on your way back into Waikīkī to see its lavish interiors and hear its stories.
Afterward, swing by the community hub SALT At Our Kaka’ako. The art-adorned urban shopping and dining complex if filled with cool boutiques like Hungry Ear Records for vinyl and Here for apparel by indie labels. You’ll also find craft coffee shops and restaurants (head upstairs to Mana + Pua for a cocktail) in the city’s Kaka‘ako district, which New York Magazine called “Honolulu’s hippest neighborhood.”
Getting to Ka La‘i Waikīkī Beach
Photo: Ka La’i Waikīkī Beach
After flying into Daniel K. Inouye International, head to the rideshare pickup zone or take the rental car shuttle to the Consolidated Rent-A-Car (CONRAC) structure across from Terminal 2 to pick up your car. It’s a 20-minute drive from the airport to Ka La‘i Waikīkī Beach, where valet parking will set you back $55 a night. So unless you plan to time exploring the island during your visit, sticking with Lyft and Uber to get around Honolulu and Waikīkī is a solid option.
Where to Play, Eat, and Stay on the North Shore of O‘ahu, Hawai‘i

The North Shore of Oʻahu is only 33 miles from Honolulu as the crow flies, but it feels like a world away from Waikīkī. Locals call it “the country” whereas the South Shore is known as “the town.” That’s for good reason. Over 30 world-renowned surf breaks, including the Banzai Pipeline and Sunset Beach, are scattered along a swath of coastline dubbed the Seven Mile Miracle.
The North Shore’s main artery is the Kamehameha Highway. It stretches between the town of Haleʻiwa — with its locally owned shops, restaurants, and galleries — to Waimea Valley and beyond to the former sugar mill town of Kahuku. Waimea Valley is home to the largest heiau (Hawaiian temple) on the island, Puʻu O Mahuka, and the namesake bay where the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational takes place every year.
Along the way, you’ll pass working farms, rustic farmers markets, and local-favorite food trucks and roadside stands selling poke bowls, fruit smoothies, and the best fried shrimp you’ll ever eat — no reservations required (or shoes, for that matter).
Things to do on the North Shore of O‘ahuHead to the beach
Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) + Tor Johnson
You’ll find some of the most sought-after beaches in Hawaiʻi along Oʻahu North Shore — gorgeous stretches of golden sand where it’s easy to spend an entire day. In the winter, powerful waves might attract surfers to ʻEhukai Beach Park (home of the Banzai Pipeline) and Sunset (a top place to catch the sunset alongside family-friendly Haleʻiwa Beach Park). The waters are more tranquil in the summer (although even experienced swimmers are advised to exercise caution). The crystal-clear tide pool at Shark’s Cove at Pūpūkea Beach Park is perfect for snorkeling, much like Kuilima Cove 15 miles up the coast, which is bursting with marine life.
Shop local in Haleʻiwa
Photo: Keri Bridgwater
From humble beginnings as a sugarcane plantation village to a renowned surf spot, Haleʻiwa is a laid-back little town that attracts a global crowd every winter with prestigious competitions like the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. One way to learn about its historic sites, like Liliʻuokalani Church, is on a docent-led walking tour. Another is to spend an afternoon strolling its main street, popping into local businesses including Polu Gallery and Jack Johnson’s Kokua General Store. Raging Isle Surf & Skate inside the North Shore Marketplace is worth a look, too, much like surf-meets-vintage shop Number 808. And no visit to Haleʻiwa is complete without stopping by North Shore institution Matsumoto Shave Ice for a snow cone drizzled in tropical flavor combos like the Hawaiian (blue pineapple, coconut, and banana) topped with condensed milk.
Swim with sharks
Photo: Courtesy of One Ocean Diving
Swimming with sharks is a thrilling way to spend a morning on the North Shore, and one of the best outfitters to go with is One Ocean Diving. Its educational two-hour trips are led by a small team of marine biologists, plus an underwater photographer who gives everyone ample opportunities to dive down for semi-close-up encounters with several shark species, including Galapagos, sandbar, and black tips, depending on the season. Tours aren’t just educational (you’ll learn about the sharks’ ecological role as a top predator, their significance in ancient Hawaiian lore, and sad trends in their decline) but also support marine conservation with a portion of proceeds helping fund beach clean-ups and outreach programs.
One Ocean Diving: 66-105 Beach Rd, Haleiwa, HI 96712
Explore Waimea Valley
Photo: Courtesy of Waimea Valley
A site of spiritual and cultural significance for centuries, Waimea Valley is preserved as a living museum and represents one of Oʻahu’s last remaining ahupuaʻa — a traditional Hawaiian land division that stretches between the mountains and the sea. The trail to its eponymous waterfall features a botanical garden, traditional dwellings, and artisan demonstrations like kapa-making (bark cloth). Across the road, Waimea Bay is where the first Westerners came ashore on Oʻahu in 1779 and later where pioneering surfers cemented its reputation as the birthplace of big wave surfing in the ‘50s. Up the hill, the state historic site Puʻu o Mahuka offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient Hawaiian society. Overlooking the valley the site is also crisscrossed with hiking trails.
Waimea Valley: Waimea Valley Rd, Haleiwa, HI 96712
Plant a tree on horseback
Photo: Keri Bridgwater
Hawaiian cowboys (paniolo) have been wrangling cattle on Hawaiʻi since the early 19th century — including at Gunstock, a working and still family-owned ranch in Kahuku. Backdropped by the Koʻolau Range, the ranch’s 900 acres are a pretty place to ride, but visitors can give back to the land here, too, by planting a native Hawaiian tree in the growing Legacy Forest. After a horseback ride through the countryside and a picnic lunch, you’ll get to dedicate a tree during a personal ceremony and help support Gunstock’s partnership with the Hawaiian Legacy Reforestation Initiative.
Gunstock Ranch: 56-250 Kamehameha Hwy, Kahuku, HI 96731
Where to eat and drink on the North Shore of O‘ahuFarm to Barn Café & Juicery
Photo: Courtesy of Farm to Barn Café & Juicery
Cold-pressed juices, burritos, and vegan bowls grace the menu at this must-stop health food cafe in Haleʻiwa. Loved by locals and in-the-know visitors, it’s a popular spot that’s worth the wait of the occasional lines. Order at the counter and enjoy your meal at one of the picnic tables on the lawn. Breakfast highlights include the veggie-packed farm-powered bowl, while the Big Island grass-fed Banzai Burger is perfect for a post-surf or shark-swim refuel.
Farm to Barn Café & Juicery: 66-320 Kamehameha Hwy, Haleiwa, HI 96712
Raised by Waves
Photo: Courtesy of Raised by Waves
This entirely plant-based and vegan cafe inside the Kahuku Sugar Mill complex has you covered from simple but good-for-you breakfast eats (think avo toast and sunrise waffles topped with strawberries) to post-surf afternoon snacks like the spicy beet poke bowl and pounders panini. There’s also a great lineup of smoothies, refreshers (try the Shroom Latte), immunity-boosting Seamoss Shots, and coffee drinks made with fresh local grinds.
Raised by Waves: Sugar Mill 56, 565 Kamehameha Hwy Unit #B9, Kahuku, HI 96731
Tanaka Kahuku Shrimp
Photo: Keri Bridgwater
Spicy garlic shrimp bring people (sometimes by the tour bus) to this no-frills roadside restaurant in Kahuku. For around $18, you’ll get six shrimp on a generous pile of rice garnished with a slice of sweet local pineapple. Order from the window, then grab a seat at one of the covered picnic tables. Pro-tip: don’t skip the extra sauce for only a couple of dollars more. And if you’re not into shrimp, the chicken katsu has a perfectly crisp, golden exterior with tender, juicy meat inside.
Tanaka Kahuku Shrimp: 56-931 Kamehameha Hwy, Kahuku, HI 96731
Kuilima Farm Stand
Photo: Courtesy of Kuilima Farm Stand
The North Shore is dotted with farms growing everything from breadfruit and açai to leafy greens and lilikoʻi (passion fruit). Many offer behind-the-scenes tours where you can learn about the area’s agricultural history, and several have stands along Kamehameha Highway, including Kuilima (which means “holding hands with the land”). Part of a 468-acre farm-to-resort that includes 34 community garden plots and that’s located mauka (towards the mountains) of Turtle Bay, it sells cut and bagged seasonal fruits and veggies, plus honey harvested from on-site beehives.
Kuilima Farm Stand: 57-146 Kamehameha Hwy, Kahuku, HI 96731
Where to stay on the North Shore of O‘ahuCourtyard by Marriott Oahu North Shore
Photo: Courtyard Oahu North Shore
Having successfully preserved its rural charm by limiting large-scale development, there are just two hotels on this side of Oʻahu, one of which is the Courtyard by Marriott Oahu North Shore. Steps from ʻŌnini Beach in the little-known town of Lāʻie on the windward coast, its newly renovated guestrooms feature tasteful tropical touches and are configured with either two queen beds or a king (although a handful have bunks, and suites come equipped with full kitchens).
Rent bikes or SUPs, snorkel sets, and surfboards for a day at the beach (accessed via a private path), relax in a daybed beside the resort-style pool or take advantage of lawn games and activities like corn hole and pickleball. Look for Kekela “Aunty Kela” Miller who leads cultural classes — including lei making, hula dancing, and ukelele — in the also newly renovated lobby. Counter-service spot The Bistro is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but no alcohol is sold at the hotel (so, no poolside Mai Tais) although you can BYO and enjoy in the privacy of your room. Zero resort fees is another big plus, but parking will cost an additional $20 a night.

Photo: Courtyard Oahu North Shore
The Marriott’s convenient location a short walk from the Polynesian Cultural Center is a draw for anyone keen to catch one of the nightly Aliʻi Lūʻau & Hā Shows, shop the marketplace, or explore its island villages. Nearby restaurants include burger joint Seven Brothers and Kahuku Beer Garden & Bottle Shop inside the Kahuku Sugar Mill, which is dotted with food trucks and farm-to-table cafes. For sunset cocktails, head to the lobby bar, Off the Lip, at The Ritz-Carlton Oʻahu, Turtle Bay. Located on Oʻahu’s northernmost point, the only other hotel on the North Shore is a much spendier stay (nightly rates from $1,000), but the setting and views are unreal.
Courtyard by Marriott Oahu North Shore: 55-400 Kamehameha Hwy, Laie, HI 96762
How to get to on the North Shore of O‘ahu
Photo: Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) + Tor Johnson
Rideshares are plentiful around Honolulu, but don’t expect the same kind of coverage in the country. Oʻahu’s public transport system, The Bus, serves the island (Route 52 and Route 55 both run from Ala Moana Center to Haleʻiwa), but there’s only one convenient way to get around here: by car.
Pick one up in Honolulu (Voyage Rental Cars has a handy kiosk inside the Waikīkī Shopping Plaza) or from the Consolidated Rent-a-Car facility at the airport. Locally owned outfit Baba Rentals has a solid reputation with great prices, or for an emissions-free cruise to the North Shore consider EV specialists WeedriveTesla.
Depending on traffic, it can take over an hour to reach Haleʻiwa from Honolulu and another 35-40 minutes from there to the town of Lāʻie.
We’re Five Years Away From the Return of Supersonic Air Travel – Here’s What It Looks Like

Sometime soon, in the skies over California’s Mojave Desert, the future of air travel will zoom by overhead of unsuspecting people below. This forthcoming project, from an exciting travel tech startup seeks to bring supersonic flight back to passengers worldwide. With Overture, from Boom Supersonic, passengers could potentially fly from New York to London in just a few hours at Mach 1.7, or about 1,300 miles per hour, cutting travel times significantly.
To pave the way for the Overture, Boom has been developing and testing the XB-1, a smaller supersonic demonstrator aircraft. The XB-1 has successfully completed several test flights, pushing the boundaries of supersonic technology. It will soon attempt to travel at supersonic speeds in the skies above the Mojave.
“Boom’s mission is to make the world dramatically more accessible through supersonic travel,” a spokesperson for the company told Matador via email. “When most people think of supersonic, Concorde comes to mind. Developed in the 1960s, Concorde was a technological marvel and we stand on her shoulders as we progress towards a supersonic future. However, Concorde was never built for sustainability, either economically or environmentally.”
Boom plans to initially have Overture serving some 600 commercial air routes globally. Boom’s commercial order book for Overture currently stands at 130 aircraft, and that’s for a plane that hasn’t even been built yet. United was the first airline to sign a purchase agreement, with both American Airlines and Japan Airlines following suit.
One major difference between Concorde and Overture, the company noted to Matador, is that Overture will take off without afterburners, the main reason for the higher noise levels of Concorde’s take offs. Overture will have a landing and takeoff noise output similar to today’s subsonic long-haul aircraft, and will also meet Chapter 14 noise levels – a set of international standards for aircraft noise emissions, established by the International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO). These standards were designed to minimize the noise impacts of planes on the communities surrounding airports, most notably.
Making air travel more sustainable, with and beyond SAF
Rendering courtesy Boom Supersonic
Flying accounts for roughly 4 percent of global carbon emissions. Developments including sustainable aviation fuel (SAF) hope to drastically reduce that by developing jet fuel not built from fossil fuels, and instead using substances like corn oil. Boom plans to incorporate only SAF into its power train.
“From the beginning Boom has taken an approach rooted in sustainability, scalability and economic viability,” the spokesperson said. “Overture, and Boom’s bespoke Symphony engines, are optimized to run on up to 100% sustainable aviation fuel (SAF) enabling sustainable and fuel-efficient supersonic travel. Overture leverages more than 50 years of technology advancements to achieve optimal performance, ensuring it will be profitable for our airline operators.”
Boom promises a better cabin experience for passengers
Rendering courtesy Boom Supersonic
In addition to being faster and easier on the environment, Boom plans to make Overture a better flying experience for passengers, as well.
“We’re investing a great deal in elevating the passenger experience, developing a cabin that is comfortable, tranquil and productive for travelers,” the spokesperson said. “Boom has a dedicated passenger experience team who are combining rigorous passenger research with iterative design development to ensure we deliver an onboard experience that maximizes value to airlines and is beloved by their passengers.”
However, that experience is likely to come at increased cost, at least initially.
“We’ve designed Overture to be profitable for airlines at fares similar to first and business class and across hundreds of transoceanic routes,” the spokesperson said. “We do anticipate that fares will get less expensive over time, similar to how the first cell phones, cars, and computers cost more than the ones that followed. Boom’s goal is to make supersonic travel mainstream.”
One of the Most Iconic Train Rides in the Country Is Going Electric

Not content with keeping around 60,000 cars out of the Grand Canyon National Park every year, the Grand Canyon Railway (GCR) has been embracing sustainable initiatives for decades. Since 2009, the GCR has been using recycled vegetable oil as fuel for their two steam locomotives, and starting in 2027, the railroad will begin operating a zero-emission, battery-powered locomotive.
The Grand Canyon Railway (GCR), which started taking tourists to the Grand Canyon nearly 125 years ago on September 17, 1901, is not a small operation. It owns 15 diesel locomotive, five of which are in daily service, and two steam locomotives which run 13 days every year.
Of the 15 locomotives owned by GCR, it’s an F-40 model, of which it has eight, that will be converted from diesel to battery-electric power. According to a spokesperson for GCR, it’s the railroad’s current mechanical staff of about 25 people who will take care of the conversion, alongside an outside contractor who will be training the employees on how to build and maintain the battery-electric locomotive.
While the project is already underway, it won’t happen overnight. Acquiring materials for the conversion will take about one year, and the construction will take another year after that. That means that GCR’s battery-electric locomotive will not be in service before 2027.
Once the conversion is done and the locomotive is up and running, it will be able to make one 128-mile, round trip between Williams, Arizona, and the South Rim of the Grand Canyon on a charge. The batteries that will soon be installed in the locomotives are expected to last 12 long years, after which they can be replaced for another set that will last another dozen years.
Not only will the ride from Williams, Arizona to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon be better for the planet, but passengers can expect a more silent and less smelly ride as there won’t be any diesel exhaust. Also, the GCR is expected to “save a significant amount of fuel for the railway” and “reduce maintenance costs and improve reliability,” a spokesperson for GCR explains in an email.
This project is funded thanks to $3.4 million grant obtained in October 2024 from US Department of Transportation’s CRISI grant program. (CRISI stands for Consolidated Rail Infrastructure and Safety Improvements.) The grant will cover 80 percent of the cost of the project and the railroad will cover the remaining 20 percent.
Today, according to GCR, more than 225,000 passengers, i.e. about seven percent visitors to the South Rim, choose to travel there by rail. The 64-mile, one-way trip takes 2.25 hours and starts at $34.99 per adult each way in Pullman Class, the cheapest of the six classes of service available.
This YouTuber Became the First Person to Drive Around the World in an EV

In 1922, at just 16 years old, Aloha Wanderwell – Idris Galcia Hal by birth – set out to become the first woman to circumnavigate the world in an automobile, a Ford Model T. The five-year expedition crossed 80 countries and more than 500,000 miles. The films created along the way tell the story of her journey – or at least, a part of what was certainly a life lived without limits.
A century later, Wanderwell’s expedition has inspired another epic journey – one Limitless both in name and nature. Lexie Alford, known online as “Lexie Limitless,” drew from the famous explorer’s playbook to launch a circumnavigational trip of her own. She departed on September 6, 2023, in an attempt to be the first person to drive around the world in an electric vehicle.
“Her determination and courage in the face of hardship paved the way for overland travel,” Alford told Matador via email. “Inspired by her story, I set out to break a new world record as the first to circumnavigate the globe in an electric vehicle… I’m proud to say I accomplished just that.”
How ‘Charge Around The Globe’ Challenged Lexie
Charging in Serbia. Photo courtesy Lexie Alford
Alford documented the experience via a three-part YouTube series dubbed “Charge Around The Globe.” The series, free to watch and sponsored by Ford, doesn’t just follow her around the planet. It literally is her filming the ups, downs, and arounds driving around the globe in an all-electric Ford Explorer.
It wasn’t Alford’s first record-breaking jaunt. Prior to 21 years old she became the youngest person to visit all 196 countries around the world, a process documented through extensive photography and on her blog.

Photo courtesy Lexie Limitless
“This journey was about pushing the limits of EV travel, embracing the same challenges of forging a new path, and finding out what’s possible,” Alford says. “Along the way, I remembered Aloha’s memoir and films, simply in awe of how much the world has changed in the past century yet how deeply I related to her perspective as a female traveler. Her pioneering, adventurous spirit guided me throughout the journey, reminding me of the importance of breaking barriers and inspiring others to push their limits.”
Alford set out from Nice, France, the same location as Wanderwell departed from, to attempt to drive the planet in 90 days. En route she – including super-slow chargers that couldn’t complete a charge to 80 percent or more even in a few hours.
Some guidelines imposed by Record Setter to validate her journey:
She had to travel at least 29,000 kilometers (18,019 miles)She had to travel in one direction (west to east)She must at least have traveled across five continentsHurdles faced en route included, of course, varied charging infrastructure even in more developed countries, and how long it often took to charge. She had a visa issue getting the car across the Turkish border from Greece and had to ship the vehicle on two separate ferries rather than simply drive across the border. Alford also dealt with minor collisions, illness, and never-ending language barriers. But the episodes showcase the most beautiful aspect of international travel – the humanity that binds us all together. She often found people willing to help her, take her in, or offer directions to where she needed to be.
Alford had never driven an electric vehicle before. She learned quickly that charging experiences vary based on location – she needed a variety of apps and experienced both Level 2 and Level 3 charging speeds.“During my circumnavigation of the globe by EV, I definitely found that ‘range anxiety’ is still a relevant term, but it’s evolving as the technology and infrastructure improve,” Alford says. “One of the key factors that stood out was how much planning and adaptability are required for EV travel, especially in regions with limited charging networks. However, I also found that with a bit of preparation, like mapping out charging stations and building extra time into your itinerary, it’s absolutely possible to take on longer trips without too much stress.”
The trip wasn’t just about driving, however. Alford met up with fellow vagabonds and recordsetters around the globe, often while her car was charging. Alford narrates both in the moment scenes and voiceovers to add extra context, making Charge Around The Globe as informative and inspiring as it is entertaining. She witnesses sights like white sand hot springs in Turkiye, meets the world’s first female Muslim MMA fighter, and gets stuck (and basically lost) in middle-of-nowhere Africa.Alford ended up visiting six continents and swapped out multiple Ford EVs. In Africa, for example, she flew into Cape Town and drove northeast in an attempt to closely following Wanderwell’s route through the continent. However, she experienced load shedding, when power is shut off overnight to conserve energy, as a hindrance to charging (and to peace of mind, as it turned out). Eventually she reached a point where the charging infrastructure was non-existent and had to turn back. Unexpected experiences happened in Asia, South America, and in the United States, as well, where foul weather and the steep slopes of the Rocky Mountains slowed her progress.“For travelers, my advice is to embrace the journey and approach EV travel with a flexible mindset,” Alford says. “Use apps to locate chargers, plan your stops wisely, and look at charging breaks as opportunities to rest and explore nearby areas. EV travel may take a little extra thought, but it’s an exciting, sustainable way to experience the world.”
Air Canada Will Soon Make You Pay to Bring a Rolling Suitcase as Carry-On

It feels like the days of carefree flying with complimentary carry-on are coming to an end. In September, US airlines tightened restrictions on carry-on baggage size and weight. These changes were implemented to enhance airport security and streamline boarding. The new rules limit carry-on bag weight to between 15 and 22 pounds. And while we were all worrying about budget airlines being the strictest in enforcing these rules, little did we know that another major would announce that it would no longer include larger carry-on luggage within its economy tickets. The new regulation by Air Canada has drawn criticism from transport officials and the government.
Starting January 3, 2025, the airline will impose fees on larger carry-on items, a move that aligns with industry trends but has raised concerns about affordability and convenience.
Previously, even the most basic economy tickets allowed passengers to bring a personal item and a larger carry-on bag, such as a backpack or a small suitcase, free of charge. However, under the new rules, travelers will be required to pay a fee of around $25 for one carry-on bag and $35 for a second. A handbag, laptop case, or another small personal item will remain free.
In addition to the baggage fee changes, Air Canada is also modifying its seat selection policies for basic economy fares. Passengers who are randomly given a seat will now be charged to make a change. The cost of a seat change will vary depending on the new seat selected.
While these changes may seem minor, they could significantly impact the overall travel experience, especially for budget-conscious travelers. The added fees could eat into travel budgets and potentially deter people from choosing Air Canada as their preferred carrier — if they have a choice depending on location.
Canadian Transport Minister Anita Anand strongly disapproves of Air Canada’s decision. In mid-December, she plans to meet with the CEOs of all Canadian airlines to discuss the industry’s practices and advocate for consumers’ interests.
“Let’s just say I’m not very happy today with what I’ve heard from Air Canada,” Anand tells CTV News. “I think they need to take a look at the persons that they are targeting with these excess fees. It is not acceptable.”
Anand acknowledged that airlines have the right to make business decisions, but she emphasized that these decisions should be made with the best interests of consumers in mind. She expressed concern that the new fees could disproportionately affect lower-income travelers.
Air Canada maintains that its new policies are in line with industry trends and are necessary to remain competitive. The airline points to similar policies implemented by other carriers, such as United Airlines in the US, which requires basic economy passengers to pay a fee for carry-on bags.
However, critics argue that these fees are excessive and could harm the airline’s reputation. They contend that Air Canada should focus on providing better service and improving the overall travel experience, rather than squeezing more money out of passengers.
Checking Into Your Dream Italian Airbnb Will Be Harder Next Year

One of the many benefits of opting for an Airbnb over a hotel is remote check-ins. The lockbox check-in has become common practice at most rental properties due to its convenience for the guest and host. It means you don’t need to fix an arrival time or make small talk after a long journey. In some cases, you never meet your host, leaving you in peace to relax on vacation. Last month, however, the landscape of short-term rentals changed in Italy due to backlash against the market by local residents and new regulations put in place by the government to verify guests’ identities. You must now meet your hosts on arrival to receive a key in person and fill out information to share with the government for bookings on platforms such as Airbnb and Booking.
Italian cities have faced increasing backlash against the rise of Airbnb rentals, with residents citing concerns over disrupted neighborhoods and inflated housing costs. In recent months, protests in cities like Rome, Florence, and Milan have involved vandalism against rental properties. In many cases, key boxes have been damaged, increasing the tension between locals and short-term rental operators.
In a public statement, the Italian Interior Ministry says the ban on key boxes is due to “public order” and “safety risks.”
Italy banned key boxes and keypads for all short-term tourist accommodations, effective November 18. However, according to the Italian press, property owners were not immediately informed of the changes. That said, it’s likely that next year if you’re visiting Italy, your host will greet you in person.
Guests will also need to provide paperwork to confirm their identity. The rental’s owner must send personal details such as your home address, phone number, date of birth, and a copy of identity documents to the Italian police authorities within 24 hours of your arrival.
EuroNews reports Rome’s Mayor Roberto Gualtieri hailed the ban as “good news for everyone,” celebrating the end of “the padlocks and boxes that disfigure our streets and prevent adequate security checks.”
Taking a European trip? Check out Matador’s accommodation guides to the best places to stay:The 11 dreamiest Airbnbs in ItalyThese dreamy Amalfi Coast Airbnbs are the perfect seaside escapeThese Greek Villas Make for a Unique and Cozy Stay in Athens9 dreamy Airbnbs in the Greek islands9 dreamiest Airbnbs in the South of FranceThe most beautiful Airbnbs in ParisThese Airbnbs make you feel like you’re living in Game of ThronesStay like royalty at these Airbnb Ireland castle rentalsThe ban comes in as Rome braces itself for a huge influx of visitors for the upcoming 2025 Jubilee, a prominent Catholic event that begins on December 24, 2024.
According to the New York Post, Airbnb has expressed its commitment to safety and is working with the Italian government to find solutions that balance local concerns with the needs of hosts and guests.
The government has also recently introduced a tourism cap to save the famous town of Pompeii from destruction, as well as a tourism tax and ban on cruise ships in Venice.
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