Matador Network's Blog, page 76
January 16, 2025
All the Travel and Outdoor Gear You Need From the Patagonia Winter Sale
Heads up, travelers. One of the most innovative and boundary-pushing companies in the outdoor gear and clothing industry kicked off a massive sale on January 16. Patagonia’s winter sale encompasses men’s and women’s clothes, packs, and even the company’s backcountry-ready food line, Patagonia Provisions. Matador rounded up the coolest items in the sale below, and you can browse the entire selection via Patagonia’s dedicated sales page – the only place these discounts are available.
We hope you love the Patagonia Winter Sale! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to make a purchase.
Top clothing at the Patagonia winter saleCheck out the full rundown of clothes in the Patagonia Winter Sale.
Patagonia Women’s Down Sweater – 30 percent off
Photo: Patagonia
Style and performance is the backbone of the Patagonia Women’s Down Sweater, and it’s built partially from recycled fishing nets and responsibly-sourced down. The jacket is available in a series of color schemes and is versatile enough for wearing from fall through winter and spring. Down jackets, aka puffies, are such a staple of mountain fashion that you’d be out of place without one across much of the American west (or east, for that matter), and if the time has come for a new one, there’s no better time to grab one.
Price: $194.99
Patagonia Women’s Triolet Jacket – 30 percent off
Photo: Patagonia
GORE-TEX is the best way to protect yourself from the elements at altitude, and Patagonia’s Women’s Triolet Jacket offers it in a fashionable outer-shell jacket that will keep you warm and dry no matter the conditions. Built from recycled polyester and lacking PFAS entirely, the jacket is a responsible choice that looks as good as it performs. There’s still most of ski season remaining, and this jacket will make yours much more enjoyable.
Price: $313.99
Patagonia Women’s Micro D Fleece Joggers
Photo: Patagonia
Running during the colder months requires a good set of joggers, and this pair from Patagonia leads the pack for comfort and performance. They’re versatile enough for the gym, yoga, or travel days, as well, so you’re sure to get plenty of use from a piece of clothing you got at a steep discount. The elasticized waist band fits all, and the pants are made in a Fair Trade Certified factory.
Price: $68.99
Patagonia Men’s Nano Puff Jacket – 40 percent off
Photo: Patagonia
The classic Men’s Nano Puff Jacket is marked down to the lowest it’ll likely reach all year on Patagonia’s site. Recycled polyester and reduced-emissions production processes make this a more eco-friendly puffy than most on the market. A full spectrum of colors is available to match your style palette.
Price: $142.99
Patagonia Men’s Lightweight Insulated Fjord Flannel Shirt
Photo: Patagonia
No piece of clothing better defines mountain style than flannel, and this option from Patagonia is pretty darn good-looking. No matter the color scheme you’ll get recycled polyester insulation inside a Cotton in Conversion exterior with adjustable cuffs and a shirttail hem. The Fjord Flannel is warm, comfy, and perfect for travel days.
Price: $138.99
Top outdoor gear at the Patagonia winter saleCheck out the full rundown of gear in the Patagonia Winter Sale.
Fitz Roy down sleeping bag – 30 percent off
Photo: Patagonia
An expedition to climb Fitz Roy in Patagonia is a big part of the legend behind how Yvon Choinard founded the company. The Fitz Roy down sleeping bag carries on the story, mummy style, to keep you comfortable down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. The bag features 800-fill down made in a Fair Trade Certified factory with a sculpted foot box, chest pocket, and head space. The bag can handle many winter and off-season camping trips even at altitude.
Price: $390.99
Descensionist Snowpack 37L – 30 percent off
Photo: Patagonia
If you’re into ski touring or splitboarding, a good backpack is the difference between a successful day in the field and a frustrating one. Patagonia’s Descensionist Snowpack has spaces for avalanche safety gear and everything you’ll need for either a daytrip or multi-day trip in the backcountry. Because it’s 37L, you can pack food and stuff for an overnight at a hut or established camp without having to take anything out that you might need during the day. And it’s pyramid-esque design helps maintain weight distribution across your back and shoulders.
Price: $194.99
Top travel gear at the Patagonia winter saleCheck out the full rundown of travel gear in the Patagonia Winter Sale.
Patagonia Black Hole Duffel 55L – 30 percent off and 100L – 20 percent off
Photo: Patagonia
If you have an expedition-style trip coming up or otherwise need to haul a whole lotta gear across distances near or far and are worried about being able to fit everything you need, the Patagonia Black Hole Duffel 55L is your answer. The duffel allows you to organize gear, clothes, and other necessities in a manner that you can view from above each item you’ve packed, as though you’re looking down at your travel setup from the heavens. The pack is made of 100% recycled body fabric, lining, and webbing, and includes straps that make it wearable as a backpack or carryable by hand. For a moderate up-front investment, you’ll have a pack you can travel with for the rest of your life. The 100-L roller duffel is also discounted, for when you need ski or mountaineering gear, as are most other duffel options.
Price: $117.99
Also on sale: The Patagonia Black Hole Hip Pack Mini, the most versatile 1L hip pack on the market.
Check out Matador’s complete review of the Patagonia Black Hole Duffel
Patagonia Refugio 25L Daypack – 31 percent off
Photo: Patagonia
Matador’s commerce editor got a Refugio daypack in 2023 and has hardly taken it off since, using it not only as his daily driver for remote work and coworking bike commutes but as a daypack for global travel as well. The pack has a dedicated laptop sleeve with extra space for additional work gear, and a separate large pouch for stuff like clothes, food, and other necessities. There are water bottle holders on each side so you can carry both water and a coffee mug. And the pack is big enough that it fits everything for a day with ease, but small enough that it can compress down nearly flat for packing inside a larger suitcase or backpack on travel days. 
Price: $75.99
More like thisOutdoorWe Tested Patagonia Rain Jackets in the Real World and These Are the 6 Best
SpaceX Rocket Debris Is the Latest Reason for Flight Delays
Weather, mechanical issues, medical emergencies, or crew problems are common justifications from airlines to explain flight delays. Falling space junk, however, isn’t an excuse you hear very often, but it’s one that travelers flying with Qantas have heard several times recently.
Over the past few weeks, Australian flag carrier Qantas has had to delay several flights on the route between Sydney, Australia, and Johannesburg, South Africa, because of potential SpaceX rockets re-entering Earth over a a large portion of the southern Indian Ocean, an area covered by the flights’ path.
According to Reuters, last-minute warnings from the US Government have led to flights in both directions being delayed for up to six hours. It appears that tardy changes in coordinates and schedule for the re-entry and launches of rockets are responsible.
“While we try to make any changes to our schedule in advance, the timing of recent launches have moved around at late notice which has meant we’ve had to delay some flights just prior to departure,” said Ben Holland, the head of Qantas’s operations centre.
While chances of space debris hitting aircrafts are very slim, they do pose a safety threat; therefore airlines must act with an abundance of caution.
“We’re in contact with SpaceX to see if they can refine the areas and time windows for the rocket re-entries to minimise future disruption,” Holland explained.
The Guardian reported that South African Airways was also impacted by SpaceX’s activities.
US Air Travelers Will Need This Type of ID to Fly Starting May 7 (Officially This Time)
After many false starts, The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) announced on January 14 that travelers will need a REAL ID-compliant driver’s license or identification card to board commercial aircraft for domestic flights by May 7, 2025. This is a hard deadline; there will be no extensions. So, if you’ve been putting off getting down to your state’s driver’s licensing agency, you need to do so as soon as possible in order to meet the deadline.
The REAL ID Act passed by Congress in 2005 prohibits federal agencies from accepting licenses and identification cards for individuals wanting to board domestic flights and access federal government facilities and nuclear power plants.
“Congress passed the REAL ID Act in 2005 to enhance security standards for identification, directly in response to the security vulnerabilities highlighted by the 9/11 attacks,” says TSA Administrator David Pekoske in a statement.
The process for enforcing the act has been a drawn-out process. The deadline of May 2008 was pushed due to implementation challenges at the state level, political opposition, COVID-19, and citizens in some states dragging their heels in applying for the ID.
Pekoske stresses the importance of having the new ID as a “foundational to security.”
“I urge those who use a driver’s license or state-issued identity card as their primary form of identification to access federal facilities or board commercial passenger aircraft, to ensure these credentials are REAL ID-compliant. We are committed to engaging with the public, licensing jurisdictions, and states to facilitate a smooth transition to REAL ID enforcement beginning May 7, 2025, which this rule supports,” Pekoske continues.
So, if you’ve not yet applied for a REAL ID, now is not the time to procrastinate. The TSA and the Department of Homeland Security (DHS) advise individuals to apply for their REAL ID as soon as possible to avoid extended processing times and potential delays. There will likely be an increase in applications as the May 7 enforcement deadline approaches.
To obtain a REAL ID-compliant driver’s license or state identification card, you will need to visit your respective state’s driver’s licensing agency in person. Specific documentation requirements vary by state. This information can be found on your state agency’s website.
At a minimum, you must provide proof of your full legal name, date of birth, social security number, two proofs of address, and lawful status.
If you don’t have a REAL ID by May 7, the TSA will still accept the following forms of identification: A US passport, a US passport card, a DHS trusted traveler card, a permanent resident card, acceptable photo ID issued by a federally recognized Tribal Nation or Indian tribe, HSPD-12 PIV card, or a passport issued by a foreign government.
January 15, 2025
Call It a Hip Pack or Call It a Sling, These Are the 11 Best for Travelers
A good sling bag (or fanny, or hip pack, whatchma callit) can make anything from a day-hike to a weeks-long expedition that much easier. It’s a great thing to have for photography equipment, essentials like your passport or wallet, and snacks – and a sling is easier to carry than a heavier day pack if you don’t need much for a specific outing. Yes, a sling is in many cases the modern equivalent of a fanny pack, but don’t worry – these won’t go out of style anytime soon. Matador tested dozens of sling bags and these were the cream of the crop, from a larger photog option to a super-light sling that packs flat in a larger bag.
We hope you love these travel sling bags! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to make a purchase.
Skip to a review:WANDRD Rogue SlingMountainsmith KnockaboutPeak Design Everyday SlingBellroy Venture Sling 6LOsprey Archeon Sling 7Aer Go Sling 2CamelBak M.U.L.E. 5 Hydration Waist PackDakine Hot Laps PackFjällräven Ulvö Hip Pack LargeThe North Face Berkeley Lumbar
When preparing for adventure travel, choosing the right bag is crucial, especially for photographers carrying delicate, expensive gear. During a 10-day trip to Kenya, I tested the WANDRD Rogue Sling 9L, a bag designed for travel photographers. After muddy safari drives, bumpy bush flights, and treks through remote villages, the Rogue Sling proved itself as a durable and functional companion. And the ease of access helped me get shots I know I’d otherwise have missed.
Kenya’s dusty, muddy, and rainy conditions put the Rogue Sling through its paces. Dust wiped off easily, while weatherproof zippers and materials kept my gear safe during afternoon downpours. Despite rough treatment—constant contact with vehicle floors and rocky ground—the bag showed no signs of fraying or significant wear.
The WANDRD Rogue Sling comes in three sizes: 3L, 6L, and 9L. The middle option is probably big enough for most photographers, unless you have a huge telephoto lens like I do. The 9L held plenty for me for a day in the field. I packed a camera body, a massive 150-500mm lens, a portable Wi-Fi device, and extras like snacks and sunglasses, all organized with adjustable dividers. Additional compartments provided storage for smaller essentials like SD cards and batteries, while an expandable pouch can accommodate a water bottle or jacket.
The external tripod straps and grab handles added versatility for carrying even more. The cross-body sling design makes accessing gear effortless. A quick shoulder swing brings the bag to the front, allowing fast lens changes while walking and standing—a major advantage for photographers on the move. Its padded back panel and adjustable strap were comfortable during hours of wear, even on hikes.
The Rogue Sling isn’t compact and doesn’t compress easily, making it more suited for standalone use than as a way to pack your lenses for travel. Additionally, the drop-down laptop compartment is super useful, but lacks any padding, so be careful when you’ve got your computer in there.
Overall, the WANDRD Rogue Sling 9L offers impressive durability, functionality, and easy access for travel photographers. While it may not replace larger camera backpacks for professional photographers, it’s a great investment for travel photographers who need to carry cameras, a drone, or other gear but don’t want to wear a cumbersome backpack all day. It also has a lifetime warranty and a buyback program, making the price of $109 to $159 a lot more palatable. — Suzie Dundas, outdoors editor
Check out Matador’s complete review of the WANDRD Rogue Sling
The term “fanny pack” has fallen out of favor, replaced by more palatable (read: trendy) names like “hip pack,” “waist pack,” or simply “belt bag.” Mourn for the fanny pack if you must, but the combo hip and shoulder pack, is actually an notable improvement on what your parents carried around back in the ‘80s. Among the best examples is the Mountainsmith Knockabout. Its compact size and multiple carrying options make it a truly indispensable item for parents and travelers alike.
My wife, Alisha, has seamlessly integrated the Knockabout into our daily lives. On hikes, it serves as a convenient carrier for essentials like her phone and a few snacks for our daughter. This eliminates the need for both of us to lug around bulky daypacks, allowing for greater freedom of movement and easier navigation on the trail. Travel days have also been significantly improved by the Knockabout. Its discreet size allows it to be easily concealed under a jacket, making it perfect for air travel where carry-on space is often limited. This eliminates the need to rummage through pockets for snacks and keeps essential travel documents like passports and hotel keys readily accessible.
Beyond its practical uses, the Knockabout has become an integral part of our family’s routine. I feel prepared when we have it – we’ve come to keep BoBo’s Oat Bars in there for our daughter and simple stuff like bandaids or other snacks that we know she’ll ask for when we’re on the road. For a relatively small investment of $40, the Knockabout has proven to be an invaluable tool. — Tim Wenger, transactional content editor
Check out Matador’s complete review of the Mountainsmith Knockabout
The Peak Design Everyday Sling is designed sort of for photographers — but you can tell from the name that it’s also meant to be just a useful everyday sling bag, which is mostly what I use it for. Over the past few weeks, I’ve used it as my go-to bag for errands, though I’ve used it for a while as a small camera case/bag for travel.
One of the standout features is the clever strap system. The straps rotate a full 360 degrees, which means they never get twisted or caught, no matter how many times you take the bag off or switch shoulders. It’s a small detail, but it’s one of those “you’ll notice it when it’s missing” design features that make this bag shine. The straps also easily configure for as a purse over your shoulder, a sling bag on your back, or even a hip pack snug around your waist. I tested the smallest size (3L), which is small enough to comfortably carry with any method — but larger ones would probably get quite difficult to sling around your hips. The straps are lightly padded but thin, and the overall look is quite urban minimalist, so it works really well as an everyday bag for commuting and city use.
The interior design is a mixed bag (no pun intended) for me. The shape of the bag is slightly rigid, which does wonders for keeping delicate items like sunglasses or even a granola bar from getting crushed. Tiny pockets make it easy to organize essentials like memory cards, cash, or even a key, so you’re never fishing around for those smaller items, and a full-length zipper and semi-clamshell-style opening make it easy to find whatever you need in a pinch.
That said, the size is both a blessing and a curse. While I appreciated its compactness for minimalist outings, it’s tiny. My iPhone 16 just barely squeezes into the front pocket with its case on, which got a little annoying, despite the fact that that pocket feels like the best spot for a phone. The bag also has a large, padded back panel, and while it’s comfortable and adds protection, it also eats into the internal space a bit. I had enough space for all the items I’d normally keep in a purse, but if you have a camera in there, it’s tough to fit much else. Every size does come with two external carry straps, though, so you can carry a tripod or roll up a jacket on the outside.
Overall, the Everyday Sling 3L is a beautifully designed, well-thought-out bag perfect for those who value portability and organization over capacity. It’s ideal for (as the name implies) everyday use, and also scores a few extra bonus points if you need a camera sling even larger than the WANDRD Rogue Sling, as it comes in a 10L option. – Suzie Dundas, outdoors editor
Check out Matador’s complete review of the Peak Design Everyday Sling
About two years ago, I was in need of a diaper bag that checked the following boxes: not bulky, plenty of storage, and durability to last through repeated over stuffing and all manner of spills. Importantly, I also wanted something that doesn’t scream “diaper bag” so that I could use it for more than just baby needs. Which led me to the Bellroy Venture Sling. To date, it’s been on trips around the country and the world, as well as an uncountable number of day trips, and hasn’t had a single issue.
Admittedly, shrinking a diaper bag’s contents into a sling takes some intentional packing. Yet the Bellroy Venture allows for plenty of leeway. My typical pack with the baby has changed as my daughter went from infant to toddler, though generally includes a small pack of wipes, two diapers, her water bottle (and before that, a milk bottle in an insulated cover), two small toys, and some snacks. For international trips, our passports get tucked into the more secure back pocket.
The exact contents changes slightly depending on the day. The space and organization of the sling makes adapting easy if I need to add an extra outfit choice or another toy. Plus, it packs flat when empty so is easy to store in my luggage if I don’t need it along the way. As important as that is, what has made the Bellroy Venture Sling stand out to me in the long run is the durability. I’ve stretched the limits of the zipper more times than I’d like to admit. I’ve also lost count of the number of in-flight and in-transit water spills that cover the bag from top to bottom — not to mention the milk spills that thankfully wipe and wash off with ease. Today, the bag’s 100 percent recycled, water-resistent woven fabric and water-resistent zipper lining still looks fresh and works like the first day I received it. And the durability doesn’t add weight at less than a pound when empty.
When the kid hasn’t commandeered the contents, I’ve comfortably fit our mirrorless camera with a 35mm lens to use the Bellroy Venture as a low-profile camera bag. My extra battery and external phone charger still have plenty of room in the main compartment side pockets to keep them on my person but separate from the camera. Then in the other pocket, a small notepad and pen. The two-way zipper and strap buckles come in handy when I want to quickly grab my camera out without fuss.
If you’re looking for a small hip pack to carry what would otherwise fit in your pockets, even the smaller six-liter Bellroy Venture Sling is probably too much. The same goes for if you’re looking for a budget option considering the price point of $129 for the smaller option and $139 for the larger. For those of us who need more space than even a pocket-filled jacket can hold but don’t need a full-on backpack, the Bellroy Venture Sling hits all the right notes and its durability makes the price understandable. — Nickolaus Hines, managing editor
When it comes to carrying my laptop, I don’t really have a great solution. I have big travel backpacks as well as a good hand-held case, but not a great solution when I just need to tote my laptop around.
Well, I didn’t have a good solution — but now I do, thanks to the Archeon Sling from Osprey. And while it’s been useful for carrying around town, it has another perk, too: it easily attaches to bags in Osprey’s Archeon collection. That expands my carrying capacity without the need for an additional bag, as is basically like getting two carry-ons that look like one, and the setup allows you to keep your essentials within reach in the sling, then put bulkier items in your main Archeon bag in the overhead bin). Add in a roller bag, and you’ve effectively got three carry-ons (though it only looks like two).
That makes it helpful for travel, but it’s daily use that I think has the most appeal. It’s minimalist enough looking to work for professional use, but durable and functional enough that you can drag it across rough ground or pinch it in gym lockers (without your laptop inside, ideally) without any damage. The main compartment fits my 13-inch MacBook Pro, plus slimmer essentials like a phone or cords. I wouldn’t put anything wider than my sunglasses in there, since the bag has quite a low profile. It doesn’t hold anything as wide as a water bottle or even a bag of chips. However, it is loaded with interior organization that makes it easy to find everything you need, even for small items like pens and memory cards.
The only downside I’ve noticed is that it’s easy to lose the straps that attach it to the sling if you don’t keep them either buckled, or tucked into a pocket. I found them once on the floor of my gym’s locker room and another time floating around the backseat of my car. You can replace them if you lose them, of course.
Overall, the Osprey Archeon Sling 7 has been pretty useful. That said, I wouldn’t choose it as my only sling bag, since the slimness makes it suited really only to tech and small electronics. But if you already have a bigger sling/hip pack — and especially if you have a backpack it can clip to, like an Archeon collection bag — it’s a useful addition for day-to-day use, especially when it comes to travel. – Alex Bresler, branded content editor
I’ve used the same beat-up gray Arcteryx crossbody pack as my primary “purse” every day for the past couple of years — even, somewhat embarrassingly, on nights out that probably demand a more fashion-conscious accessory. What can I say? I love the ease and comfort of a sling bag. If only I’d known sooner that I didn’t have to compromise on style — a lesson I learned when I started using the Aer Go Sling 2 as my go-to city “purse.”
Unlike my Arcteryx crossbody — which is something of a Mary Poppins bag that’s able to carry everything I might need while out and about but is in turn fairly bulky — the Aer Go Sling 2 is small and sleek, resembling the sort of sling bag you’d see on the cover of a streetwear magazine. I got mine in olive green, which seems to look good with everything I own (although, admittedly, my wardrobe mostly adheres to a neutral, earthy color palette).
I’d say that bag’s compact size is both its greatest pro and con. On the one hand, it looks nice and is practically weightless even when full. On the other hand, I need to be slightly more selective about what I’ll need for an outing (without sacrificing any essentials, mind you). My typical haul includes my wallet, iPhone, keys, a 1.7-ounce tube of sunscreen, a tube of lip balm, a pair of headphones, and my sunglasses in their case — which I was surprised could fit alongside everything else given that the bag’s volume is only 0.8L.
The interior design is simple but intuitive, with two mesh pockets that keep my smaller items tidy, one zipper pocket, and an open liner pocket where I store my phone to keep it from getting scratched while having easy access. I also appreciate the magnetic fastener on the strap — this quick-release function has served me well when going through airport security and juggling too many things to slip the bag off over my head like I normally do.
Speaking of travel, one of my favorite things about the Aer Go Sling 2 is its packability. When empty, it’s almost completely flat and is even thin enough to rull up, making it supremely nestable in other luggage without taking up much space or adding virtually any weight. Ask any light packer — justifying bringing an extra (actually stylish) bag on trips is a game changer. Alex Bresler, branded content editor
With countless “drink more water” New Year’s resolutions floating around, we all already know staying hydrated is essential for our health. But let’s be honest—it can feel like a chore. I’ve countlessly filled up my water bottle, only to have forgotten it on my kitchen counter as I head out for a day outdoors.
The CamelBak M.U.L.E. 5 Hydration Waist Pack is a hassle-free hydration solution—you literally can’t forget your water because it’s built right into the pack. There’s no need to juggle or lug a bulky water bottle around. Instead, it features a built-in hydration reservoir that holds up to 1.5 liters (50 oz), showcasing CamelBak’s signature feature.
The water reservoir fills easily, thanks to a handle that makes it simple to pour, hold, and tighten the cap. The pouch also fits securely into a mesh compartment within the bag and clips into place. Just make sure to tighten the cap fully, or you might end up with a pack that’s more hydrated than you. The trademark blue straw runs along the length of the belt loop and connects magnetically to stay in place with an on/off lever on the drinking spout to prevent any dripping.
While CamelBak backpacks might be a better fit for some, I prefer this sling-style waist pack because it provides easier access to my dog’s essentials, like waste bags and treats. I can wear it on my back for comfort and quickly swing it to the front when needed. The back of the pack is cushioned, making it comfortable to wear. It can also be worn around the hips in a fanny pack style.
The inside of the pack is spacious, with several mesh pockets for organizing phones and other small items with a secure zippered area on the side for keys. Filled to its full 50 oz capacity, the hydration pack takes up quite a bit of space inside. If you need more room, you can fill the water jug with less water—similar to a regular 21 oz water bottle—or simply remove the pouch altogether.
The sling also includes two side compartments for water bottles, providing the option to carry additional water. However, these pockets didn’t fit any of the bottles I owned, as they’re designed specifically for CamelBak Podium® water bottles, which are sold separately. That said, the 50 oz reservoir was more than enough for me, so I didn’t feel the need for extra water. In the future, I’d consider getting one of the compatible bottles, as it would make it much easier to share water with my dog—something that’s not possible with the straw component.
Bulkier than slings without built-in water pouches, this sling would takes up more space in a suitcase. The CamelBak M.U.L.E. 5 is an excellent choice for hikes and outdoor adventures close to home. For dog owners like me, it’s especially handy—not only does it keep you hydrated, but it also provides space to pack everything you and your pup need for a day outside. — Kelsey Wilking, newsletter nerd
I’m an avid mountain biker, going for long pedals at least three or four times a week in the season when our trails aren’t covered in snow. Or sometimes every day. And if I’m carrying any kind of pack, it’s always going to be the Dakine Hot Laps hip pack. In fact, I love it so much that I have two: the two-liter size for when I just need to carry a few items and an extra water bottle, and the five-liter size for when I need to carry a full hydration pack.
I ride in lots of weather and conditions, from 30-degree days where I’m battling brisk winds to 90-degree days where there’s not a cloud in sight. But in both cases, the last thing you want is a backpack making your back sweaty (and potentially cold). The hip packs alleviate this problem, and thanks to thick hip belts, don’t dig in around your stomach, even when you’re breathing hard to charge uphill. With external straps, internal and external zipper and velcro pockets, and loops for clips and carabiners, they both carry more than you’d expect. Even the two-liter is big enough for two water bottles (on the outside), a jacket, a snack, bike tools, and a spare 29-inch tube.
For mountain biking, they’ve been ideal, staying in place even on gnarly, boulder-y downhills. But they’re actually quite useful for road biking as well, especially as I find using the back pockets of road bike jerseys can create uncomfortable pulling around my neck in the front. I’m certainly not a runner, but I am a hiker, and I often see summer trail runners using the two-liter Hot Laps pack. And when it comes to my fellow mountain bikers, the five-liter is the pack I see used the most — far more than any type of backpack. I’ve had mine for years and while they’re both covered in mud (my fault), there have been absolutely no holes, rips, tears, or quality issues in either pack, even though they’ve definitely taken some hard falls.
The Hot Laps packs are the biking hip packs I recommend to all my friends — and even loan them, when they need a hip pack with a water reservoir. They come in multiple colors and start at $55, but you can often find last season’s colors on sale for closer to $25 for the two-liter size. — Suzie Dundas, outdoors editor
Buy Now: $33+ (2L)
Buy Now: $41+ (5L)
When traveling in crowded cities, standard backpacks are never a good idea. Not only do they take space in public transports and are forbidden in most museums and monuments, but they also leave your belongings vulnerable to ill-intentioned people who would love nothing more than the opportunity to pinch your wallet, passport, and phone without you noticing a thing. During a trip to Quito, Ecuador, a beautiful and mostly safe city that’s unfortunately notorious for pickpockets, I opted to leave the backpack behind and carry my essentials in Fjällräven’s Ulvö Hip Pack.
While I initially thought that moving from a backpack to a sling bag meant that I would have to downsize my possessions dramatically, it turned out that the large model of Fjällräven’s Ulvö Hip Pack had enough space for all my stuff, namely my phone, my guidebook, my passport, notebook, pencil, wallet, earphones, sunglasses, and even a small water bottle. And although that may seem like a lot of items to carry around, it never felt too heavy for me to bear, and the sling bag never felt cumbersome. Fjällräven’s Ulvö Hip Pack does come in two sizes: medium and large, with the medium version’s capacity being two liters, i.e. half of the large model’s.
Inside the large main compartment of Fjällräven’s Ulvö Hip Pack is one mesh zipped pocket and two elasticized slip pockets to keep your belongings organized. The back of the bag features a security pocket, which is never visible when you wear the sling bag, and can easily hide your passport, cash, and phone. The compression straps on the exterior are a smart feature to attach a sweater or light jacket, but it isn’t practical if it’s a water bottle you’re trying to securely strap.
Although it’s branded as a hip pack, I find the bag a little too big to feel comfortable around my waist. So, for comfort and safety reasons, I have been wearing it across my chest, with the zipper handy. The medium model might be more adapted for wearing around the waist.
The fact that Fjällräven’s Ulvö Hip Pack Large is waterproof, made of 100 percent recycled polyamide, and costs only $65 only make this very practical sling bag more appealing. — Morgane Croissant, deputy editor
While The North Face is a brand that focuses on outdoor gear, the Berkeley Lumbar feels more like a trendy urban sling bag than one you’d take for a hike, a bike ride, or a paddle. Although it’s the perfect size to carry a wallet, a phone, keys, and other small items for everyday use, it’s certainly not big enough to add a waterbottle, snacks, sunscreen, a hat or an extra layer, and it’s not waterproof (only water repellent). But what it lacks in space or outdoor-focused features, it makes up in style.
Everything about the Berkeley Lumbar, from the material (recycled nylon) to the bright colors, the zipper pulls, and logo tag in the front, is pulled straight out of 80s and 90s fashion, which makes for a nostalgic piece that’s simultaneously very trendy. You can be one of the cool kids this time around.
This sling bag has only two sections: one main compartment and one fleece-lined front pocket, both of which are a good size, but it lacks smaller compartments that would come handy for organizational purposes.
The simplicity, affordability, and size of the Berkeley Lumbar makes it the perfect unisex and casual alternative to a handbag. Because the strap is thin, it can comfortably be worn around the waist or across the body without being cumbersome, and the padding on the back of the bag makes it sit flat and comfortably against the body. — Morgane Croissant, deputy editor
Size: 2LWeight: 10 ouncesStandout features: Small, lightweight, and made with 100 percent recycled materials from a brand working towards circularityPrice: $60
Before I ever used my Cotopaxi Coso 2L, I lent it to a friend for an afternoon mountain bike ride. By the end of her ride, she was sold on buying one of her own. At first glance, the Coso 2L looks a little chunky for a hybrid hip pack and sling bag. But according to my friend, Elle, it felt a lot less bulky and cumbersome than the hip pack she’s used to using with a CamelBak for water. This one has no built-in hydration pack, but it’s big enough to fit a water bottle and snacks inside. The pockets — a small inner pouch and an outside pouch — also kept everything safe from water and food spills, which is common when things are rattling around, Elle reported. She appreciated being able to put her car keys in the inner pouch and the phone in the outer pouch where it was secure but easily accessible to check navigation.
I’m no mountain biker, but after that review, I was eager to hit the trails with the Coso 2L myself. My first outing with the hip pack was a day hike in Marin County. Like Elle, I was impressed that I was able to fit an 18-ounce water bottle inside, along with sunscreen, a sunglasses case, and the usual personal effects. Everything was easy to organize and easy to access, especially when fully unzipped in hip pack mode when the opening is surprisingly wide.
I’ve tried wearing the pack multiple ways on and since that hike and found it to be somewhat overwhelming on my relatively small frame when worn in sling bag mode. Not prohibitively so, especially with side compression straps that you can tighten depending on what you’re carrying, but I’d think twice before grabbing the Coso 2L for a city walk where, stylistically, I’d prefer a crossbody. As a waist-worn trail bag, though, I have yet to find a better hip pack — and even after all the muddy, dusty excursions it’s been on, the recycled nylon material repels most grime and always wipes clean to preserve Cotopaxi’s cool, eye-catching colorways. — Alex Bresler, branded content editor
Call It a Hip Pack or Call It a Sling, These Are the 10 Best for Travelers
A good sling bag (or fanny, or hip pack, whatchma callit) can make anything from a day-hike to a weeks-long expedition that much easier. It’s a great thing to have for photography equipment, essentials like your passport or wallet, and snacks – and a sling is easier to carry than a heavier day pack if you don’t need much for a specific outing. Yes, a sling is in many cases the modern equivalent of a fanny pack, but don’t worry – these won’t go out of style anytime soon. Matador tested dozens of sling bags and these were the cream of the crop, from a larger photog option to a super-light sling that packs flat in a larger bag.
We hope you love these travel sling bags! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to make a purchase.
Skip to a review:WANDRD Rogue SlingMountainsmith KnockaboutPeak Design Everyday SlingBellroy Venture Sling 6LOsprey Archeon Sling 7Aer Go Sling 2CamelBak M.U.L.E. 5 Hydration Waist PackDakine Hot Laps PackFjällräven Ulvö Hip Pack LargeThe North Face Berkeley Lumbar
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Photo: Suzie DundasThe WANDRD Rogue Sling: the best sling bag for photographersSizes: 3L, 6L, 9LWeight: 1 pound, 1.5 pounds, or 1.74 poundsStandout features: Expandable pockets, laptop pouch, weatherproof, customizable carry with padded dividersPrice: From $109When preparing for adventure travel, choosing the right bag is crucial, especially for photographers carrying delicate, expensive gear. During a 10-day trip to Kenya, I tested the WANDRD Rogue Sling 9L, a bag designed for travel photographers. After muddy safari drives, bumpy bush flights, and treks through remote villages, the Rogue Sling proved itself as a durable and functional companion. And the ease of access helped me get shots I know I’d otherwise have missed.
Kenya’s dusty, muddy, and rainy conditions put the Rogue Sling through its paces. Dust wiped off easily, while weatherproof zippers and materials kept my gear safe during afternoon downpours. Despite rough treatment—constant contact with vehicle floors and rocky ground—the bag showed no signs of fraying or significant wear.
The WANDRD Rogue Sling comes in three sizes: 3L, 6L, and 9L. The middle option is probably big enough for most photographers, unless you have a huge telephoto lens like I do. The 9L held plenty for me for a day in the field. I packed a camera body, a massive 150-500mm lens, a portable Wi-Fi device, and extras like snacks and sunglasses, all organized with adjustable dividers. Additional compartments provided storage for smaller essentials like SD cards and batteries, while an expandable pouch can accommodate a water bottle or jacket.
The external tripod straps and grab handles added versatility for carrying even more. The cross-body sling design makes accessing gear effortless. A quick shoulder swing brings the bag to the front, allowing fast lens changes while walking and standing—a major advantage for photographers on the move. Its padded back panel and adjustable strap were comfortable during hours of wear, even on hikes.
The Rogue Sling isn’t compact and doesn’t compress easily, making it more suited for standalone use than as a way to pack your lenses for travel. Additionally, the drop-down laptop compartment is super useful, but lacks any padding, so be careful when you’ve got your computer in there.
Overall, the WANDRD Rogue Sling 9L offers impressive durability, functionality, and easy access for travel photographers. While it may not replace larger camera backpacks for professional photographers, it’s a great investment for travel photographers who need to carry cameras, a drone, or other gear but don’t want to wear a cumbersome backpack all day. It also has a lifetime warranty and a buyback program, making the price of $109 to $159 a lot more palatable. — Suzie Dundas, outdoors editor
Check out Matador’s complete review of the WANDRD Rogue Sling
Mountainsmith Knockabout: The best combo hip/shoulder sling
Photos courtesy Mountainsmith and Tim Wenger
Photo courtesy Mountainsmith
Photo courtesy MountainsmithSizes: 1.63LWeight: 7.25 oucesStandout features: Small and lightweight, usable as a purse or to carry snacks for kidsPrice: $39.95The term “fanny pack” has fallen out of favor, replaced by more palatable (read: trendy) names like “hip pack,” “waist pack,” or simply “belt bag.” Mourn for the fanny pack if you must, but the combo hip and shoulder pack, is actually an notable improvement on what your parents carried around back in the ‘80s. Among the best examples is the Mountainsmith Knockabout. Its compact size and multiple carrying options make it a truly indispensable item for parents and travelers alike.
My wife, Alisha, has seamlessly integrated the Knockabout into our daily lives. On hikes, it serves as a convenient carrier for essentials like her phone and a few snacks for our daughter. This eliminates the need for both of us to lug around bulky daypacks, allowing for greater freedom of movement and easier navigation on the trail. Travel days have also been significantly improved by the Knockabout. Its discreet size allows it to be easily concealed under a jacket, making it perfect for air travel where carry-on space is often limited. This eliminates the need to rummage through pockets for snacks and keeps essential travel documents like passports and hotel keys readily accessible.
Beyond its practical uses, the Knockabout has become an integral part of our family’s routine. I feel prepared when we have it – we’ve come to keep BoBo’s Oat Bars in there for our daughter and simple stuff like bandaids or other snacks that we know she’ll ask for when we’re on the road. For a relatively small investment of $40, the Knockabout has proven to be an invaluable tool. — Tim Wenger, transactional content editor
Check out Matador’s complete review of the Mountainsmith Knockabout
Best for everyday use: Peak Design Everyday Sling
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Photo: Suzie DundasSizes: 3L, 6L, 10LWeight: 1.21 pounds, 1.72 pounds, or 1.94 poundsStandout features: Adjustable dividers, minimalist look, multiple practical carry options, external carryPrice: From $89.95The Peak Design Everyday Sling is designed sort of for photographers — but you can tell from the name that it’s also meant to be just a useful everyday sling bag, which is mostly what I use it for. Over the past few weeks, I’ve used it as my go-to bag for errands, though I’ve used it for a while as a small camera case/bag for travel.
One of the standout features is the clever strap system. The straps rotate a full 360 degrees, which means they never get twisted or caught, no matter how many times you take the bag off or switch shoulders. It’s a small detail, but it’s one of those “you’ll notice it when it’s missing” design features that make this bag shine. The straps also easily configure for as a purse over your shoulder, a sling bag on your back, or even a hip pack snug around your waist. I tested the smallest size (3L), which is small enough to comfortably carry with any method — but larger ones would probably get quite difficult to sling around your hips. The straps are lightly padded but thin, and the overall look is quite urban minimalist, so it works really well as an everyday bag for commuting and city use.
The interior design is a mixed bag (no pun intended) for me. The shape of the bag is slightly rigid, which does wonders for keeping delicate items like sunglasses or even a granola bar from getting crushed. Tiny pockets make it easy to organize essentials like memory cards, cash, or even a key, so you’re never fishing around for those smaller items, and a full-length zipper and semi-clamshell-style opening make it easy to find whatever you need in a pinch.
That said, the size is both a blessing and a curse. While I appreciated its compactness for minimalist outings, it’s tiny. My iPhone 16 just barely squeezes into the front pocket with its case on, which got a little annoying, despite the fact that that pocket feels like the best spot for a phone. The bag also has a large, padded back panel, and while it’s comfortable and adds protection, it also eats into the internal space a bit. I had enough space for all the items I’d normally keep in a purse, but if you have a camera in there, it’s tough to fit much else. Every size does come with two external carry straps, though, so you can carry a tripod or roll up a jacket on the outside.
Overall, the Everyday Sling 3L is a beautifully designed, well-thought-out bag perfect for those who value portability and organization over capacity. It’s ideal for (as the name implies) everyday use, and also scores a few extra bonus points if you need a camera sling even larger than the WANDRD Rogue Sling, as it comes in a 10L option. – Suzie Dundas, outdoors editor
Check out Matador’s complete review of the Peak Design Everyday Sling
Bellroy Venture Sling 6L
Photo: Nickolaus Hines
Photo: Nickolaus Hines
Photo: Nickolaus HinesSizes: 6L, 9LWeight: 345 grams, 400 gramsStandout features: Structured, water-resistant recycled fabric, two-way zipper, quick-release strap bucklesPrice: From $129About two years ago, I was in need of a diaper bag that checked the following boxes: not bulky, plenty of storage, and durability to last through repeated over stuffing and all manner of spills. Importantly, I also wanted something that doesn’t scream “diaper bag” so that I could use it for more than just baby needs. Which led me to the Bellroy Venture Sling. To date, it’s been on trips around the country and the world, as well as an uncountable number of day trips, and hasn’t had a single issue.
Admittedly, shrinking a diaper bag’s contents into a sling takes some intentional packing. Yet the Bellroy Venture allows for plenty of leeway. My typical pack with the baby has changed as my daughter went from infant to toddler, though generally includes a small pack of wipes, two diapers, her water bottle (and before that, a milk bottle in an insulated cover), two small toys, and some snacks. For international trips, our passports get tucked into the more secure back pocket.
The exact contents changes slightly depending on the day. The space and organization of the sling makes adapting easy if I need to add an extra outfit choice or another toy. Plus, it packs flat when empty so is easy to store in my luggage if I don’t need it along the way. As important as that is, what has made the Bellroy Venture Sling stand out to me in the long run is the durability. I’ve stretched the limits of the zipper more times than I’d like to admit. I’ve also lost count of the number of in-flight and in-transit water spills that cover the bag from top to bottom — not to mention the milk spills that thankfully wipe and wash off with ease. Today, the bag’s 100 percent recycled, water-resistent woven fabric and water-resistent zipper lining still looks fresh and works like the first day I received it. And the durability doesn’t add weight at less than a pound when empty.
When the kid hasn’t commandeered the contents, I’ve comfortably fit our mirrorless camera with a 35mm lens to use the Bellroy Venture as a low-profile camera bag. My extra battery and external phone charger still have plenty of room in the main compartment side pockets to keep them on my person but separate from the camera. Then in the other pocket, a small notepad and pen. The two-way zipper and strap buckles come in handy when I want to quickly grab my camera out without fuss.
If you’re looking for a small hip pack to carry what would otherwise fit in your pockets, even the smaller six-liter Bellroy Venture Sling is probably too much. The same goes for if you’re looking for a budget option considering the price point of $129 for the smaller option and $139 for the larger. For those of us who need more space than even a pocket-filled jacket can hold but don’t need a full-on backpack, the Bellroy Venture Sling hits all the right notes and its durability makes the price understandable. — Nickolaus Hines, managing editor
Best for laptop carrying: The Osprey Archeon Sling 7
Photo courtesy Osprey
Photo courtesy OspreySizes: One size (7L)Weight: 1 poundStandout features: Attached to Archeon bags, designed for tech, extremely durable materialsPrice: $90When it comes to carrying my laptop, I don’t really have a great solution. I have big travel backpacks as well as a good hand-held case, but not a great solution when I just need to tote my laptop around.
Well, I didn’t have a good solution — but now I do, thanks to the Archeon Sling from Osprey. And while it’s been useful for carrying around town, it has another perk, too: it easily attaches to bags in Osprey’s Archeon collection. That expands my carrying capacity without the need for an additional bag, as is basically like getting two carry-ons that look like one, and the setup allows you to keep your essentials within reach in the sling, then put bulkier items in your main Archeon bag in the overhead bin). Add in a roller bag, and you’ve effectively got three carry-ons (though it only looks like two).
That makes it helpful for travel, but it’s daily use that I think has the most appeal. It’s minimalist enough looking to work for professional use, but durable and functional enough that you can drag it across rough ground or pinch it in gym lockers (without your laptop inside, ideally) without any damage. The main compartment fits my 13-inch MacBook Pro, plus slimmer essentials like a phone or cords. I wouldn’t put anything wider than my sunglasses in there, since the bag has quite a low profile. It doesn’t hold anything as wide as a water bottle or even a bag of chips. However, it is loaded with interior organization that makes it easy to find everything you need, even for small items like pens and memory cards.
The only downside I’ve noticed is that it’s easy to lose the straps that attach it to the sling if you don’t keep them either buckled, or tucked into a pocket. I found them once on the floor of my gym’s locker room and another time floating around the backseat of my car. You can replace them if you lose them, of course.
Overall, the Osprey Archeon Sling 7 has been pretty useful. That said, I wouldn’t choose it as my only sling bag, since the slimness makes it suited really only to tech and small electronics. But if you already have a bigger sling/hip pack — and especially if you have a backpack it can clip to, like an Archeon collection bag — it’s a useful addition for day-to-day use, especially when it comes to travel. – Alex Bresler, branded content editor
Best for going ultra-light: Aer Go Sling 2
Photo courtesy Aer
Photo courtesy Aer
Photo courtesy AerSizes: One size (.8L)Weight: .3 poundsStandout features: Easy organization, packs flat in a larger bagPrice: $59I’ve used the same beat-up gray Arcteryx crossbody pack as my primary “purse” every day for the past couple of years — even, somewhat embarrassingly, on nights out that probably demand a more fashion-conscious accessory. What can I say? I love the ease and comfort of a sling bag. If only I’d known sooner that I didn’t have to compromise on style — a lesson I learned when I started using the Aer Go Sling 2 as my go-to city “purse.”
Unlike my Arcteryx crossbody — which is something of a Mary Poppins bag that’s able to carry everything I might need while out and about but is in turn fairly bulky — the Aer Go Sling 2 is small and sleek, resembling the sort of sling bag you’d see on the cover of a streetwear magazine. I got mine in olive green, which seems to look good with everything I own (although, admittedly, my wardrobe mostly adheres to a neutral, earthy color palette).
I’d say that bag’s compact size is both its greatest pro and con. On the one hand, it looks nice and is practically weightless even when full. On the other hand, I need to be slightly more selective about what I’ll need for an outing (without sacrificing any essentials, mind you). My typical haul includes my wallet, iPhone, keys, a 1.7-ounce tube of sunscreen, a tube of lip balm, a pair of headphones, and my sunglasses in their case — which I was surprised could fit alongside everything else given that the bag’s volume is only 0.8L.
The interior design is simple but intuitive, with two mesh pockets that keep my smaller items tidy, one zipper pocket, and an open liner pocket where I store my phone to keep it from getting scratched while having easy access. I also appreciate the magnetic fastener on the strap — this quick-release function has served me well when going through airport security and juggling too many things to slip the bag off over my head like I normally do.
Speaking of travel, one of my favorite things about the Aer Go Sling 2 is its packability. When empty, it’s almost completely flat and is even thin enough to rull up, making it supremely nestable in other luggage without taking up much space or adding virtually any weight. Ask any light packer — justifying bringing an extra (actually stylish) bag on trips is a game changer.
Photo: Josh Wilking
Photo: Kelsey Wilking
Photo: Kelsey WilkingSizes: One size 3.5 litersWeight: 1.2 lbsStandout features: Includes a 1.5-liter water reservoir with sip accessPrice: $90With countless “drink more water” New Year’s resolutions floating around, we all already know staying hydrated is essential for our health. But let’s be honest—it can feel like a chore. I’ve countlessly filled up my water bottle, only to have forgotten it on my kitchen counter as I head out for a day outdoors.
The CamelBak M.U.L.E. 5 Hydration Waist Pack is a hassle-free hydration solution—you literally can’t forget your water because it’s built right into the pack. There’s no need to juggle or lug a bulky water bottle around. Instead, it features a built-in hydration reservoir that holds up to 1.5 liters (50 oz), showcasing CamelBak’s signature feature.
The water reservoir fills easily, thanks to a handle that makes it simple to pour, hold, and tighten the cap. The pouch also fits securely into a mesh compartment within the bag and clips into place. Just make sure to tighten the cap fully, or you might end up with a pack that’s more hydrated than you. The trademark blue straw runs along the length of the belt loop and connects magnetically to stay in place with an on/off lever on the drinking spout to prevent any dripping.
While CamelBak backpacks might be a better fit for some, I prefer this sling-style waist pack because it provides easier access to my dog’s essentials, like waste bags and treats. I can wear it on my back for comfort and quickly swing it to the front when needed. The back of the pack is cushioned, making it comfortable to wear. It can also be worn around the hips in a fanny pack style.
The inside of the pack is spacious, with several mesh pockets for organizing phones and other small items with a secure zippered area on the side for keys. Filled to its full 50 oz capacity, the hydration pack takes up quite a bit of space inside. If you need more room, you can fill the water jug with less water—similar to a regular 21 oz water bottle—or simply remove the pouch altogether.
The sling also includes two side compartments for water bottles, providing the option to carry additional water. However, these pockets didn’t fit any of the bottles I owned, as they’re designed specifically for CamelBak Podium® water bottles, which are sold separately. That said, the 50 oz reservoir was more than enough for me, so I didn’t feel the need for extra water. In the future, I’d consider getting one of the compatible bottles, as it would make it much easier to share water with my dog—something that’s not possible with the straw component.
Bulkier than slings without built-in water pouches, this sling would takes up more space in a suitcase. The CamelBak M.U.L.E. 5 is an excellent choice for hikes and outdoor adventures close to home. For dog owners like me, it’s especially handy—not only does it keep you hydrated, but it also provides space to pack everything you and your pup need for a day outside. — Kelsey Wilking, newsletter nerd
Best for biking: Dakine Hot Laps Pack
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Photo: Suzie DundasSizes: 1L, 2L, 5LWeight: Max 11 ouncesStandout features: Hydration solutions, extremely durable, huge storage capacity, comfortable on long climbsPrice: $55+ but often on saleI’m an avid mountain biker, going for long pedals at least three or four times a week in the season when our trails aren’t covered in snow. Or sometimes every day. And if I’m carrying any kind of pack, it’s always going to be the Dakine Hot Laps hip pack. In fact, I love it so much that I have two: the two-liter size for when I just need to carry a few items and an extra water bottle, and the five-liter size for when I need to carry a full hydration pack.
I ride in lots of weather and conditions, from 30-degree days where I’m battling brisk winds to 90-degree days where there’s not a cloud in sight. But in both cases, the last thing you want is a backpack making your back sweaty (and potentially cold). The hip packs alleviate this problem, and thanks to thick hip belts, don’t dig in around your stomach, even when you’re breathing hard to charge uphill. With external straps, internal and external zipper and velcro pockets, and loops for clips and carabiners, they both carry more than you’d expect. Even the two-liter is big enough for two water bottles (on the outside), a jacket, a snack, bike tools, and a spare 29-inch tube.
For mountain biking, they’ve been ideal, staying in place even on gnarly, boulder-y downhills. But they’re actually quite useful for road biking as well, especially as I find using the back pockets of road bike jerseys can create uncomfortable pulling around my neck in the front. I’m certainly not a runner, but I am a hiker, and I often see summer trail runners using the two-liter Hot Laps pack. And when it comes to my fellow mountain bikers, the five-liter is the pack I see used the most — far more than any type of backpack. I’ve had mine for years and while they’re both covered in mud (my fault), there have been absolutely no holes, rips, tears, or quality issues in either pack, even though they’ve definitely taken some hard falls.
The Hot Laps packs are the biking hip packs I recommend to all my friends — and even loan them, when they need a hip pack with a water reservoir. They come in multiple colors and start at $55, but you can often find last season’s colors on sale for closer to $25 for the two-liter size. — Suzie Dundas, outdoors editor
Buy Now: $33+ (2L)
Buy Now: $41+ (5L)
Photo: Morgane Croissant
Size: 4LWeight: 7 ouncesStandout features: Good storage, including a secret pocket, waterproof, made of 100 percent recycled materialPrice: From $65When traveling in crowded cities, standard backpacks are never a good idea. Not only do they take space in public transports and are forbidden in most museums and monuments, but they also leave your belongings vulnerable to ill-intentioned people who would love nothing more than the opportunity to pinch your wallet, passport, and phone without you noticing a thing. During a trip to Quito, Ecuador, a beautiful and mostly safe city that’s unfortunately notorious for pickpockets, I opted to leave the backpack behind and carry my essentials in Fjällräven’s Ulvö Hip Pack.
While I initially thought that moving from a backpack to a sling bag meant that I would have to downsize my possessions dramatically, it turned out that the large model of Fjällräven’s Ulvö Hip Pack had enough space for all my stuff, namely my phone, my guidebook, my passport, notebook, pencil, wallet, earphones, sunglasses, and even a small water bottle. And although that may seem like a lot of items to carry around, it never felt too heavy for me to bear, and the sling bag never felt cumbersome. Fjällräven’s Ulvö Hip Pack does come in two sizes: medium and large, with the medium version’s capacity being two liters, i.e. half of the large model’s.
Inside the large main compartment of Fjällräven’s Ulvö Hip Pack is one mesh zipped pocket and two elasticized slip pockets to keep your belongings organized. The back of the bag features a security pocket, which is never visible when you wear the sling bag, and can easily hide your passport, cash, and phone. The compression straps on the exterior are a smart feature to attach a sweater or light jacket, but it isn’t practical if it’s a water bottle you’re trying to securely strap.
Although it’s branded as a hip pack, I find the bag a little too big to feel comfortable around my waist. So, for comfort and safety reasons, I have been wearing it across my chest, with the zipper handy. The medium model might be more adapted for wearing around the waist.
The fact that Fjällräven’s Ulvö Hip Pack Large is waterproof, made of 100 percent recycled polyamide, and costs only $65 only make this very practical sling bag more appealing. — Morgane Croissant, deputy editor
The North Face Berkeley Lumbar: the unisex and casual version of a trendy handbag
Photo: Morgane Croissant
Size: 4LWeight: 6.3 ouncesStandout features: Good size (not too big, not too small), very affordable, nostalgic colors and detailsPrice: From $35While The North Face is a brand that focuses on outdoor gear, the Berkeley Lumbar feels more like a trendy urban sling bag than one you’d take for a hike, a bike ride, or a paddle. Although it’s the perfect size to carry a wallet, a phone, keys, and other small items for everyday use, it’s certainly not big enough to add a waterbottle, snacks, sunscreen, a hat or an extra layer, and it’s not waterproof (only water repellent). But what it lacks in space or outdoor-focused features, it makes up in style.
Everything about the Berkeley Lumbar, from the material (recycled nylon) to the bright colors, the zipper pulls, and logo tag in the front, is pulled straight out of 80s and 90s fashion, which makes for a nostalgic piece that’s simultaneously very trendy. You can be one of the cool kids this time around.
This sling bag has only two sections: one main compartment and one fleece-lined front pocket, both of which are a good size, but it lacks smaller compartments that would come handy for organizational purposes.
The simplicity, affordability, and size of the Berkeley Lumbar makes it the perfect unisex and casual alternative to a handbag. Because the strap is thin, it can comfortably be worn around the waist or across the body without being cumbersome, and the padding on the back of the bag makes it sit flat and comfortably against the body. — Morgane Croissant, deputy editor
Book the Thai Beach Resort Where The White Lotus Was Filmed Before It Sells Out
Season 3 of The White Lotus debuts on HBO on February 16, and there’s never been a better time to book a trip to Koh Samui, Thailand, where the season takes place. Filing took place at the luxurious Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, and interest in booking the stunning property is already skyrocketing –
If you plan to set-jet to the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, book now – bookings for the season 2 location at Sicily’s San Domenico Palace spiked 300% spike in searches on Hotels.com ahead of the season, with the property remaining fully booked for six months as the season aired.
Though, staying in one of the poshest properties on Koh Samui, famed for its stunning beaches and more relaxed vibe than party islands like Koh Pha Ngan, won’t come cheap. Rates start at $1,580 per night and will likely increase once the season begins.
We hope you love the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
What to do at the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui
Photo: Hotels.com
Few Thai beach resorts offer quite the level of luxury as the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui. There’s of course the beach – the Gulf of Thailand is home to some of the most beautifully blue waters on the planet, and you’ll enjoy great views from the room. The resort offers a range of dining options, including its famed PlaPla restaurant and CoCoRum cocktail bar. You can find everything from authentic Thai cuisine to international dishes, typically with stunning coastal views – and sometimes with seafood from that sea. The resort also features an award-winning spa, The Secret Garden Spa. The special is the traditional Thai massage, though there are the usual assortment of body scrubs and facials on offer.
The resort provides a fitness center, tennis courts, and rental equipment for water sports like kayaking and snorkeling. Guests also have access to dedicated butlers who can assist with anything from making reservations to arranging excursions. Essentially, the resort aims to provide a luxurious and personalized experience for all its guests – though hopefully your experience will be less conniving than what the guests at The White Lotus experienced.
Is it worth it to stay at the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui?
Photo: Hotels.com
Whether or not that four-figure price tag is worth it is the ultimate question. Really, it comes down to two things: First, can you afford it without tanking your savings plans or other financial goals, and second, how much of a set-jetter do you consider yourself to be?
If that resort is a bit out of your price range, try other fine resorts on Thailand that could have been played host for The White Lotus.
If you confidently answered yes to both, your best bet is to book now before prices skyrocket. It’s unlikely that prices will come back down until well after season 3 concludes, and given the popularity of the show’s first two seasons, it could be awhile even after that. Plus, you’ll get the excitement of heading there during the height of the resort’s fame, so you can expect to partake in show-themed specials and events, alongside your own self-guided voyage to see your favorite shots from the show. If you’re really on top of it, you could even watch an episode debut from your room inside the hotel – and if you can pull that off it’d be hard for anyone to usurp your superfan status.
Alaska Airlines Is Launching 10 New Routes This Month
Alaska Airlines is starting the new year with a big announcement: In January alone, the airline is adding 10 new routes to its already-sizeable network.
The expansion includes domestic and international routes. The new international routes all connect US cities and popular Mexican destinations, making traveling to the sea and sun a little easier for Americans.
The 10 new routes being added to the network in January are:
Tucson (TUS) – Sacramento (SMF), starting January 6, 2025Orlando (MCO) – Sacramento (SMF), starting January 6, 2025Sacramento (SMF) – Los Cabos (SJD), starting January 6, 2025New Orleans (MSY) – Portland (PDX), starting January 6, 2025Orlando (MCO) – Boise (BOI), starting January 7, 2025New York (JFK) – Puerto Vallarta (PVR), starting January 8, 2025Sacramento (SMF) – Puerto Vallarta (PVR), starting January 11, 2025Kansas City (MCI) – Cancun (CUN), starting January 18, 2025St. Louis (STL) – Puerto Vallarta (PVR), starting January 25, 2025Kansas City (MCI) – Puerto Vallarta (PVR), starting January 25, 2025And it’s only the start. The airline will be adding another nine routes to its map in the next few months, including a new flight between Seattle (SEA) and Tokyo (NRT), and three new routes between the conterminous US and Alaska, including between Portland (PDX) and Fairbanks (FAI), between Sacramento (SMF) and Anchorage (ANC), and between Detroit (DTW) and Anchorage (ANC).
These Tourist-Loved Islands Are Closing for Three Days to Fight Overtourism
The Faroe Islands, a remote archipelago in the North Atlantic, announced recently it’s continuing a tradition deemed essential to maintain its environmentally sensitive recreation draws and tourist attractions: for three days, it’s closing to tourists.
The annual event is called “Closed for Maintenance, Open for Voluntourism.” It was launched in 2019 and closes tourists sites, but invites travelers willing to volunteer to come to the island. This year’s closure takes place May 1-3, 2025. Technically, some parts of the islands will remain open, but the majority of the major tourist sites will be inaccessible.
The Faroe Islands are an autonomous territory of Denmark, roughly equidistant between Iceland and Norway. The islands have seen a steep rise in tourism in the last few years, and with a population of slightly more than 53,000 across 540 square miles, it’s been beneficial to the economy. But it also puts a strain on fragile landscapes and infrastructure, such as the Vestmanna Sea Cliffs (which provide nesting sites for puffins) and the trails clearings around waterfalls like Múlafossur and Fossá.
Tourism began in earnest on the Faroe Islands around 2014, and boomed in 2019, when visitation jumped by 15 percent over 2018. Post-COVID-19, it rebounded well. In 2022, the number of overnight stays at lodging facilities reached 228,757, marking a 32 percent increase compared to 2019. And in 2023, the islands welcomed roughly 130,000 visitors, and tourism accounted for a small-but-growing six percent of the territory’s GDP, or about $122 million per year. Most tourists visit for the island’s outdoor draws, such as hiking, wildlife photography, and undeveloped viewpoints and scenic areas.
“The Faroe Islands are still in their early days as a tourist destination,” writes the official announcement, which says that the goal is to avoid serious overtourism problems before they begin. “We aim to mend paths where necessary and guide people safely to prevent issues from evolving.”
But there’s still a way to visit during that timeView this post on InstagramA post shared by Visit Faroe Islands (@visitfaroeislands)
Each year, approximately 100 volunteers are selected to participate in the territory-wide clean-up effort. But if you want to be one of the lucky few selected, you’ll need to act fast — registration closes on January 16 at 11 AM GST, which is 3 AM in San Francisco and 6 AM in New York City. So if you want to apply, you need to do it immediately (you can always change your mind later). Volunteers get free housing and meals, making the only significant cost the flight to the islands. And even that is discounted, with volunteers receiving a promo code to use on the territory’s Atlantic Airways (connecting through European airports).
The 100 selected volunteers are chosen from a pool of thousands of applicants from around the world. They’ll be teamed up with locals for projects like repairing hiking trails and footbridges, cleaning habitats of litter and signs of human activity, and installing signage to protect sensitive areas from overuse. While there’s no requirement for volunteers to have construction skills, you do need to be willing to help and learn, and have enough physical fitness for moderately active tasks on uneven terrain. All instruction and communication is in English.
Winners will be notified on January 24, at which point they can begin planning their trips. The discount flight code is good for any time, so you can add extra days to the trip to explore the islands before or after your volunteer days. The program’s transparent and inclusive approach has garnered widespread support, with more and more travelers applying each year for one of the coveted spots. In 2023, the program received more than 4,500 applications.
Cheap Airbnbs in ski destinations
Not that a vigorous ski vacation ever feels like a ripoff, but holy Alberto Tomba has the sport gotten expensive. Lift tickets are regularly over $125, condos can go for $2,500 a week or more, and drinks at après ski bars are often pricier than they are in Vegas nightclubs. Skiing was never a budget sport, but now it’s approaching equestrian and skydiving as a “take out a loan” sport.
While we can’t do much about the price of drinks or lift tickets, we can help you control your cost of accommodations. We put our heads together with Airbnb, who dished on the 10 hottest North American ski destinations this winter, based on increased booking demand. In each spot, we found the coolest Airbnb you can rent for affordable rates, with a tolerable proximity to the mountain.
We hope you love the ski destination Airbnbs we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
Ski-in/ski-out lodge — Summit County, Colorado
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
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Villa Panda stands at an elevation of 8,900 feet amid the Gore Range of the Rocky Mountains. Keystone Resort, Frisco Nordic Center, and Breckenridge are the closest ski areas whereas downtown Silverthorne is just a mile away. The rental has heaps of space indoors plus a hot tub and kids’ playground outside. This Play Airbnb for skiers also has a games room with classic arcade consoles and shuffleboard.
Eight guests, five bedrooms
Price: $800 per night
Photo: Airbnb
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This 1970s cabin in Colorado has been spruced up with modern appliances, premium bedding, and a hot tub perfect for a snow day. The interiors are mindfully styled with just the essentials, ensuring the focus stays on the epic mountain scenery. Breckenridge Ski Resort is half an hour up the highway and there is a gas-burning fireplace and forced air heat to keep the cabin warm and snug.
Four guests, two bedrooms
Price: $215 per night
Photo: Airbnb
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This exceptional cabin near Big Sky Resort was custom-built and designed using a sloping roof and retaining walls to blend into the natural landscape. The decor leans mid-century modern and maximizing the scenery took priority. Wildlife sightings are common and the Milky Way is known to put on a show. The property sits on a 30-acre estate shared with one other rental which has its own designated yard space.
Eight guests, three bedrooms
Price: $449 per night
Photo: Airbnb
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A short drive from Stowe Mountain Resort, Camel’s Hump, and Bolton Valley, this is one of the best Airbnbs for skiers in the North East of the United States. The hand-hewn timber barn, a characterful abode turned out with vintage appliances, is the hub of the home. Additional bedrooms and bathrooms are found in the silo with a hallway connecting the two units. There’s a treehouse in the yard and acres of snowshoeing and cross-country skiing trails.
Five guests, five bedrooms
Price: $820 per night
Photo: Airbnb
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This Guest Favorite Airbnb near Whiteface Mountain Resort will delight skiers and leave the whole clan longing to get snowed in. Highlights include the open-air hot tub and cedar sauna, which skiers of all abilities will appreciate. The property is split across the main chalet, a studio cabin, and a lean-to glamping cabin, thus allowing a greater sense of space – and adventure. The lifts are a 20-minute drive.
Ten guests, five bedrooms
Price: $448 per night
Photo: Airbnb
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This family-friendly Airbnb for skiers near NYC has a water wheel and brook in the backyard which summons the most idyllic holiday card backdrop. There’s a fire pit outside for evenings devoted to stories and s’mores. Back indoors, the chalet is traditionally styled and furnished with premium amenities. You’ll have access to 11 acres of skiing and snow shoe trails from the property while Woods Valley is a 30-minute drive.
Eight guests, two bedrooms
Price: $315 per night
Photo: Airbnb
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Enjoy mountain views, downtown conveniences, and proximity to Alyeska Resort at this four-bedroom retreat for families and large groups. There’s a hot tub on the terrace primed for morning sun and evening stargazing. Rooms are sizable and the main salon’s high ceiling adds a sense of grandeur to this contemporary vacation home. In case you fancy a return for summer, the blackout curtains keep the pesky midnight sun at bay.
Eight guests, four bedrooms
Price: $268 per night
Photo: Airbnb
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This ultra-glamorous townhome near Utah’s finest ski resorts includes a free door-to-door shuttle service to and from Deer Valley during the season. Besides being dressed up all ready for a magazine shoot, practicality plays a major role in this rental pad. There is ample storage space for skis and boards as well as washing facilities for freshening up your thermals between hitting the slopes. It’s a steal if you can fill all the beds.
Eight guests, three bedrooms
Price: $600 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosThis charcoal-hued cabin rental near Mount Washington Alpine Village cuts quite the contrast with the heavy British Columbia snowfall. The interiors are comfortably appointed with a cozy room in the gabled roof, a rustic kitchen, and a huge storage facility. A luggage sled is provided during the snow season when the road is inaccessible. You’ll ski out to the Sunrise Chair and ski in at the end of the day.
Six guests, three bedrooms
Price: $261 per night
Photo: Airbnb
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This ski-in/ski-out Airbnb opens directly onto the Sasquatch Mountain Resort. As a six-bedroom chalet, it offers far better value than booking condos and makes post-piste debriefs all the more fun with options to sit fireside or soak in the hot tub. There’s a huge kitchen stocked with everything needed to whip up poutine and cheese boards. Configuration-wise, it’s ideal for families and adult groups alike.
Thirteen guests, six bedrooms
Price: $643 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
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Photo: AirbnbSee more photosOn a clear winter day the view here will trick all your internet friends into thinking you’re staying at some luxe ski getaway, rather than paying just $72 a night. This 1,200-square-foot, two-bedroom condo has a covered deck situated right on a lake, with mountain views right behind. It’s about 25 miles from Bridger Bowl and 45 miles to Big Sky, so you’ll still have a bit of a drive to the slopes. But your distance from skiing is more than made up for with your proximity to the breweries and bars of this mountain college town, also one of our Coolest Towns for 2018.
Five guests, two bedrooms
Price: $93 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosLong flights be damned, the Alyeska Resort near Anchorage has seen an 83-percent uptick in demand this year. Fortunately, that hasn’t driven prices up yet, and you can get this two-story, two-bedroom chalet with vaulted ceilings and glacial views for $200 per night, about the price of a mid-range hotel. The chalet also has a private hot tub on the deck, a wood burning stove, and a pullout sofa bed if you want to fit six people inside. And it’s only a few minutes from the slopes, meaning you won’t be driving all over sprawling Anchorage to get to your skiing.
Five guests, two bedrooms
Price: $175 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosThough Ontario has never been top of mind for many Americans as a big ski destination, Airbnb saw a 142-percent increase in demand for Blue Mountain this year. This condo puts you right in the heart of the ski village, with three bedrooms spread over two stories and 1,700 square feet. The main living area has floor-to-ceiling windows that allow maximum light in to start your morning, and the master bedroom features an oversized bathtub to soak in after a long day on the mountain.
Eight guests, three bedrooms
Price: $526 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosAspen? Vail? Telluride? Great spots. All also painfully expensive. This is probably why less-traveled Colorado Springs has seen a massive increase in demand this year. This second-floor apartment in a four-story house, available for $110 per night, has panoramic views of Cheyenne Mountain and Garden of the Gods, with heated floors and clean, white decor. The kitchen has a dishwasher, but no range. But you’re only a short walk from trendy Colorado Avenue, where you’ll find no shortage of places to eat, drink, and do whatever else one does in Colorado.
Four guests, two bedrooms
Price: $110 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosThis 1,596-square-foot house sits right along the fairway at the Three Nines Golf Course, which dates all the way back to 1928. If you’re hearty, winter might not keep you off the greens, but if it does, the house is also only 12 miles from Mt. Hood Skibowl, 19 miles from Timberline Lodge, and 24 miles from Mt. Hood Meadows. The house is part of the Mt. Hood Oregon Resort, and staying here also gives you access to the resort’s sports courts, spa, playground, and other amenities.
Eight guests, two bedrooms
Price: $180 per night
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosStowe is underrated younger brother to blown-out Killington, a quiet little town with a challenging mountain and a world-class ski resort. Lodging, however, is limited — so a big, modern condo four miles from the mountain is quite a find. This two-bedroom spot has a wood-burning fireplace and is only a couple of miles from quaint downtown Stowe. You’d be well advised to hit the restaurants at the Stowe Mountain Lodge, as well as its underground speakeasy at Linehouse.
Six guests, two bedrooms
Price: $206 per night
January 14, 2025
When Exploring the Towns of Lake Como, Appetite Comes With Eating
The Melbourne-based travel writer Paul Manser has written for major newspapers and magazines that demand a sort of glossy sheen to stories. Real-world travels, and life in general, rarely reflect the glow of a mainstream travel story. Those tales may not make it into Manser’s typical outlets, though they did make into his book, “Life Plans on Dive Bar Napkins” (Hardie Grant).
Photo: Hardie Grant
The book is for travelers who aren’t afraid of the messier side of travel, and who embrace the uncomfortable, occasionally dangerous, and often humorous (at least when looked back at after a generous passage of time) things that come along with seeing the world. As Manser put it in a previous interview and excerpt of his book published on Matador: “Think of every mishap as a plot twist, not a problem. Missed connections? A gift from the travel gods to explore the place where you’re stuck. Food poisoning? The ultimate character-building experience. That miserable bus ride through rural nowhere? That’s where the stories are born.”
Here, an excerpt from “Life Plans on Dive Bar Napkins” about eating one’s way through Lake Como — with much less of the glitz and glam typically associated with the famous (and celebrity-stocked) Italian destination.
Confessions of an International Pasta Mule
Photo: Paul Manser
A thick, greasy film coats my skin.
The torrential sweat doesn’t dampen my shirt, it drowns it.
With every shuffling movement of my feet, I can feel their eyes on me. They wear navy-blue uniforms, blank expressions and behave like they are fresh from a personality lobotomy. I know they are looking at me. Their eyes are drawn to my nervous appearance and enlarged stomach.
The security cameras turn and follow my path as I walk down a short hallway. It’s only a matter of time until I get stopped. It’s only a matter of time until I appear on an episode of Border Patrol.
I fumble around in my pocket for my passport. It spills to the ground.
I have a waking nightmare involving rubber gloves, a dimly lit room and a customs officer smiling like a psychopath.
I wait an eternity for my luggage. I think about just leaving it at the airport and trying to rush through the final security checkpoint. Finally, my haggard suitcase is spat out onto the baggage carousel like a gristly piece of meat at a high-priced steak restaurant. I grab my luggage and wonder if they have already searched it. What have they found?
My ears drown in the noise of my thumping heart. It beats so fast, so loudly, that it echoes in my brain. I wheel my bag to the exit.
When I reach the front of the queue, a customs officer thrusts out a hand full of short, sausage-like fingers.
“Landing card and passport please,” he asks. His eyebrows rise when he takes in whatever coded note passport control had scribbled on it earlier.
I feel like gravity just got heavier.
It’s all too much.
I can’t take it anymore.
I blurt out, “I’m not actually smuggling five kilos of heroin in my belly. I may look eight-months pregnant, but I’ve actually just eaten my body weight in food in Italy.”
Sausage Fingers frowns. He says, “I didn’t think you were an international drug mule, but, if you want, I can arrange for someone to check and just make sure.”
It’s fair to say that I didn’t pack on a modest layer of insulation from eating in Italy, more that I evolved into a whale-like creature whose thick blubber could survive the coldest Antarctic waters. From fresh pastas oozing with creamy pesto-infused sauces, to risottos so thick they could cement brickwork in place, I ate everything Italy’s Lombardy region could offer, and then went back for dessert.
Photo: Paul Manser
The setting for my Italian feast was a small town called Bellagio that spilled down a lush green hillside to the edge of Lake Como. It was an elegant muddle of laneways overlooked by immaculately presented period houses, with overflowing flowerboxes on their narrow balconies.
Maria and I would normally rise early to gorge ourselves on sticky, sugar-powdered pastries at a waterfront café.
As the ferries docked at the small local port, we would watch as new waves of tourists from America, Germany and Russia descended upon the town like invading Vikings. Armed with credit cards and crisp euro notes, they would funnel into the town’s laneways, ready to pillage the local tourist stores of their antiques, oil paintings and Italy-shaped fridge magnets. Against a backdrop of international accents trying to calculate exchange rates, we would sip at thick, dark, diesel-like coffees.
Since Roman times, Lake Como has been a popular retreat for the wealthy residents of nearby Milan. The lake is the third-largest in Italy and is watched over by both an army of paparazzi looking for a drunken celebrity to snap, and a jagged mountain range that cuts angular silhouettes at sunset.
The roads linking the towns of Lake Como are not easy driving. The asphalt streets twist and turn and hug the shores of the deep blue lake. During peak tourist season, the traffic is so bad that it stands still. The Lake Como ferry system is a far better way to move around. The ferries have unobstructed views of postcard-perfect, stone-built towns and you are washed over by a cooling breeze standing on the outside deck.
Photo: Paul Manser
One afternoon, we indulged in a ferry heading to the village of Varenna led by our stomachs and the promise of fresh pasta.
The ferry rose and fell to the movements of the lake like a toddler walking clumsily up and down a small flight of stairs. The air was heavy with a cocktail of water-spray and diesel fumes.
I applied sunscreen across my limbs with the subtlety of a Jackson Pollock painting. Seagulls circled overhead, their shrill cries piercing through the polite murmurs of passengers. One bird perched on the railing, eyeing me directly with the sort of cold indifference that told you the gulls ate comfortably and had no natural prey.
The ferry captain walked the deck, chain-smoking and staring beyond the passengers. His gaze rested on the horizon like he was expecting a change in the weather.
As Varenna came into view, the ferry’s engine coughed and spluttered, causing the captain to swear.
The village unfolded like a postcard that your mother would proudly stick to the kitchen refrigerator and hope visitors would ask her about. The buildings were painted in a palette of sunset hues, stacked haphazardly like a tipsy architect’s fever dream. Even from a distance, I could see the promenade snaking along the shoreline, lined with villas that seemed to dare you to imagine what they looked like inside.
Photo: Paul Manser
We walked past elegant villas and cobblestone alleyways with steps and archways leading up to the main piazza. Inevitably, our hunger drew us, like a middle-aged divorcee to a bottle of rosé on a Tuesday afternoon, to one of Varenna’s small lakeside restaurants.
The menu unfolded across four massive pages. Vines suffocated a stunted tree and run along thin wires, forming a deep green canopy above the sitting diners.
Our waiter looked like Salvador Dalí. His moustache was waxed into long spears. The greasy lengths of facial hair jutted out above his mouth. He waved his hands expansively like he was conducting an unseen orchestra as he described his favorite dishes on the menu.
I point to a range of the specialties on the menu and say, “Let’s just try one of each of the house specialties and see how far we get.”
Maria cleared her throat. She rested her hand on my protruding belly, raising a single eyebrow.
Dalí Moustache smiled. Speaking in a thick Italian accent, he told us, “Not to worry.” He moved his opened hands to the sky and simply said, “L’appetito vien mangiando” or, “Appetite comes with eating.”
Excerpted with permission from “Life Plans on Dive Bar Napkins” (Hardie Grant) by Paul Manser. The book is available now wherever fine books are sold, as well as online at Amazon and Barnes & Noble.
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