Elizabeth Minchilli's Blog, page 14

June 14, 2019

sophie’s italy

Sophie Minchilli

Sophie Minchilli


I don’t usually have guests posts on my blog. But I figure I can make an exception for Sophie. (who knows, maybe it will become a regular thing?)


The reason Sophie is here today, is because she felt very strongly about a few comments she got on her Instagram stories the other day. I’ll let Sophie take it from here. Words and photographs by Sophie Minchilli (sminchilli):


While I was in Puglia last week I received a huge quantity of messages about my Instagram stories. I was so moved, especially to realize how many Italians follow me and to now know how much they appreciate my photographs, and that they too love the side of Italy I show.


I also, however, received some other types of messages. The messages were from Italians too,  who didn’t like the way I portrayed Italy. They said that I only photograph people who sit around all day doing nothing (i.e. not working). They suggested  that instead I should show a different, more modern, and ‘real’ version of Italy. For instance:   young people working, people studying, business men, and other types of ‘work’ of a higher level. They also suggested that I   not focus on work that only has to do with food. According to them I should show the hard work of Italians and how they have advanced.


Here is how I answer those people : The photographs of the older men, with big bellies (for some reason they had a big problem with big bellies!) , sitting on a bench with their friends or playing cards? They are doing that because they have spent their life on their knees, a life so difficult with back breaking work that I can’t even imagine what they have gone through. And if, at this point in their lives, they want to sit with a Peroni in hand, playing cards with their friends then they should be able to do that without being judged by people who find their lifestyle ‘antiquated.’


Every picture has a story. And that story is part of the Italy that I know and love. For instance, the man that I filmed yesterday, baking bread at 2am in the morning, is doing it because he is paying to send his daughter to school in Rome. So he is just as much a part of the Italian success story as the man with a briefcase in Milan.  I am definitely nostalgic for an Italy that I haven’t lived through (I was born in the wrong era)  but I still like to dream through the stories of people I meet. And I listen to their stories. I have long conversations with 90% of the people I photograph.


But in a world where something worse seems to happen every day, where people don’t talk to each other but instead looking at their phones, where everything is taken for granted, where we consume and  spend money, where all we seem to talk about is money?  I wonder what harm is it to dream through the eyes of people who are able to distance themselves from this modern world? Chatting with their friends as they sit in a bar or play cards on a table set up on a sidewalk. Standing on a street corner in their small town, hitting a tambourine and singing folk songs. Making cheese as their father taught them to do.  


And even if it seems that I am showing a highly romanticized version of Italy , these are real people, with their own real stories, that belong to them. And if they don’t correspond to your version of reality? I’m very sorry, but the problem is yours and you truly don’t know what you are missing.


Sophie Minchilli Sophie Minchilli Sophie Minchilli Sophie Minchilli Sophie Minchilli


 


For more about Sophie see her website. She leads day tours in Rome and also in Puglia.


For her day to day life, and her passion for (much) older men (and women!) make sure you are following her on instagram sminchilli


And for more about Italy and Rome make sure you have my books on your shelf and my app in your pocket.


And if you’d like to join Sophie and me for a Week in Puglia (or Umbria or Rome) we’d love to have you.


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Published on June 14, 2019 02:34

June 11, 2019

chocolate hazelnut biscotti

Hazelnut Biscotti


Do you need a chocolate hazelnut biscotti recipe to see you through last minute cravings and/or impromptu entertaining? I thought so. This completely easy cookie recipe will see you safely through any kind of cookie emergency you find yourself in.


I first had these addictive cookies in the backyard of a friend’s house. Actually the yard was more of a Renaissance garden. And the house is actually a castle complete with moat. And did I mention my friend is a Princess?


I was invited to lunch there by Princess Claudia who, with her sister  Giada, are the current descendants  of the family that oversees, take care of  and –  most importantly – enjoys Castello Ruspoli. While the Castello (located in Vignanello) is regularly open to the public, it remains the summer home of the Ruspoli family, and they use this incredible setting to entertain both friends and family all through the year. So lucky me!


I was actually there working on my book The Italian Table. And you can find the entire menu, complete with recipes,  from that magical day is covered in the book. For now, though, I’ll leave you with these cookies.


Hazelnuts are a big deal in this part of the world, and the hills in this part of northern Lazio are covered in hazelnut groves. Not surprisingly, they make their way into many dishes, both sweet and savory. Crucchi (the local name for these biscotti) belong to a type of rustic cookie that shows up all over Italy with slight variations depending on local ingredients. These ones not only use local hazelnuts, but also chocolate, which turns them a dark, intense color. Don’t expect a soft chewy cookie. These are very hard, but also very addictive. They go perfectly with coffee at the end of a meal.


Also? Don’t worry if they look kind of ugly. In other parts of Italy variations on this nut filled cookie are usually called Brutti ma Buoni – Ugly but Good.


Another thing: the dough is very stiff and sticky and if you use your hands to mix the dough you’ll find yourself with very chocolatey sticky hands. (Which happened to me on national TV.)


But besides tasting great, these cookies take about a minute to pull together and then another 20 to bake. They are that easy.


While you can eat them on their own, they are perfect with a tiny cup of strong espresso. And if you want to fancy things up, if you are having guests, serve them with hazelnut gelato


Hazelnut Biscotti Hazelnut Biscotti Hazelnut Biscotti Hazelnut Biscotti Hazelnut Biscotti Hazelnut Biscotti




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Chocolate Hazelnut Biscotti – Crucchi

Prep 7 mins


Cook 20 mins


Total 27 mins



Yield 16-20



Ingredients

1 cup of unsweetened or bittersweet cocoa powder
1 1/2  cup sugar
1 cup hazelnuts
2 eggs
2 tablespoons all purpose flour
pinch salt



Instructions

Preheat oven to 320°F


Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.


The hazelnuts should be halved. If your hazelnuts are whole, just stick the point of a knife into the nut at the fat, dimpled, end and the nut should break in half pretty easily. Don’t worry if they aren’t perfect.


Place the flour, cocoa powder, sugar, and salt in a bowl and mix to combine.


Crack the eggs into a small bowl, and beat with a fork.


Add the eggs to the flour mixture and mix. The mixture will be very dry and stiff, don’t worry. Use your hands to finish mixing, adding the nuts at the end.


Using your hands, form irregular, raggedy,  mounds, of about a tablespoon of dough each, and drop on cookie sheet, about 1 inch apart.


Bake for 20 minutes.


Take out of oven and cool. The cookies will be very hard on the outside, and a bit moist and chewy on the inside.If making ahead, store in an airtight container. They will last for up to a week.





Hazelnut Biscotti


For the full menu for Lunch in a Renaissance Garden see my book The Italian Table: Creating Festive Meals for Family and Friends.


 


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Published on June 11, 2019 08:07

May 12, 2019

spritz

Aperol Spritz

Aperol Spritz


I have two things to say.


1) The Aperol Spritz is not my favorite drink.


2) You can enjoy an Aperol Spritz and not only will I not judge you, I will toast you with whatever is in my glass. And it might even be an Aperol Spritz of my own.


I am just plain confused by the recent article that everyone is talking about in the New York Times. Why would the James Beard Award winning food section devote so much space to something that most people already know (I realize the title, which is decidedly feisty, is meant to inspire clicks). And I even agree that Aperol, when compared to its other bitter aperitivi cousins (Campari, Cynar) is far from the most sophisticated bottle on the shelf.


But even if I do reach for other bitters when mixing my own Spritz, I completely respect those who like their spritz less bitter. I have been drinking bitter things for a long long time. Liking something bitter is an acquired taste, and if Aperol can help get you there ,then I’m all for it. It’s definitely a gateway kind of liqueur. And if you want to be truly authentic in terms of making your Spritz, use Venetian made Select. Which,  I may add, it even sweeter than Aperol.


But not all Aperol Spritzes, or Spritzes in general, are created equal. Since the drink is 3 parts bubbly, the quality of your bubbly makes much more difference than the choice of bitters. Use supermarket prosecco and your drink is going to taste (and treat you) like supermarket prosecco. So there’s that.


Also? Why attack a cocktail so many people like? It would be sort of like writing an article on why people shouldn’t drink rum and cokes. Everyone knows that the mixture is sweet, and somewhat cloying and does nothing but hide the taste of a rum that is probably not that great to begin with. But a lot of people enjoy them. And there is nothing wrong with that. Just as many people are currently drinking bad Gin & Tonics too. We all know this already. No need to write about it.


Anyway I’m here to say that if you like Aperol Spritz you should definitely keep drinking them.


And just in case you need a recipe, here is one from my new book The Italian Table. (Where you’ll also find recipes for cicchetti to nibble on while you sip your Spritz.)


Aperol Spritz




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Spritzes are just fun to drink. A mixture of fizzy wine and brightly colored bitters, the ice filled goblets filled with brightly colored drink just feel festive. While most Italians will garnish theirs with a slice of orange, in Venice they always come adorned with a few big green olives. Which makes perfect sense to balance out the slightly sweet, yet bitter, flavor of the drink.




Ingredients

Prosecco or white wine, 3 parts
Aperol or Campari, 2 parts
Soda water, splash
Green olives



Instructions

Fill a large wine goblet with ice. Pour in the prosecco and then the Aperol or Campari. Finally top up with soda water. Garnish with some big green olives on a toothpick.





This recipe is from my book The Italian Table: Creating Festive Meals for Family and Friends. Available online everywhere, and at your local bookstore.


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Published on May 12, 2019 07:16

April 23, 2019

The Italian Table {book trailer}

The Italian Table Book Trailer

The Italian Table Book Trailer


As you may have heard I’ve written a new book, The Italian Table. What you may not know is that I created this cool little video about it. This is officially known as a ‘book trailer.’ And I want it officially known that I love it! I was so lucky to meet the talented team of Max & Pheel. They were the ones who created this darling video featuring Sophie. And they agreed to work their magic for my new book.


Enjoy!


 



 


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Published on April 23, 2019 09:20

April 14, 2019

The Italian Table Book Tour: April – May 2019

Elizabeth Minchilli

The Italian Table


A week from today I’ll begin my 3-week book tour for The Italian Table. I’m so excited!!!!  Since I want to make sure to see as many of you as possible, this blog post is all about my stops. I’ll be in 14 cities which is the absolute most I could fit into the time I had. I wish I had more time so I could stop in more places. But I’m lucky to be going to so many great places. And of course, I’ll be back!


Since so many of these events are already filling up, I wanted to make sure you had the links and all the information. There are more details here on my this page too


And now, in the next two days I have to figure out how to pack 3 weeks worth of clothes into one carry on!! (advice welcome) 


See you soon I hope!!


April 22, Chicago: Ceres Table,  Dinner and book signing. 


April 23, Milwaukee: The Italian Community Center / Bartolotta Restaurant Dinner 


April 24, Washington, DC: The National Press Club Dinner


April 25, Washington DC: Smithsonian Associates, In Conversation with Domenica Marchetti. 


April 26, Little Rock, AK: Meet and Greet at Arkansas Literary Festival. 


April 27, LIttle Rock AK: 1pm:  In Conversation with Dorie Greenspan


April 27, Little Rock AK: 4pm Eggshells Kitchen: Cooking Demo and Book Signing 


April 30, St. Louis, MO, Left Bank Books, Book Signing


May 2, Los Angeles, Now Serving: In Conversation with Evan Kleiman & book signing


May 4, San Francisco, CUESA &  BookPassage, Cooking Demo and Book Signing


May 4, Oakland, CA: Rockridge Market Hall, book signing


May 4, Danville, CA: Rakestraw Books Dinner & book signing


May 5, Larkspur, CA: Left Bank Brasserie – Book Passage Dinner & signing


May 6, San Francisco, CA: Omnivore Books: Presentation and Book Signing


May 7, San Francisco, CA: Commonwealth Club: Book Presentation &  Signing


May 9, Seattle: Book Larder: Book Presentation and Signing


May 11, Boston: I Am Books: In conversation with Barbara Lynch, book signing. 


May 13, New York: 92nd Street Y: In Conversation with Melissa Clark, book signing


May 23, Umbria, Civitella Ranieri : In Conversation with Evan Kleiman


 


 


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Published on April 14, 2019 06:33

April 7, 2019

artichoke & ricotta salad

Artichokes Ricotta

Artichokes Ricotta


When I’m planning a meal I often get stumped by the first course. When it’s just me and Domenico , I don’t go to all the trouble of ‘courses.’ But if I’m having guests over I like to serve at least two different dishes. Don’t get me wrong. This isn’t about serving enough food. In fact, the problem is actually just the opposite.


When I have friends over I want the meal to last, but don’t really want to go over board with too much food. I’m trying to hit that sweet spot of the equation of amounts of food/ time at the table and – of course – not too much time in the kitchen.


Lately I’ve been answering my somewhat overly complicated ‘what to have as a first course’ question with a version of this dish that is basically cheese + salad + vegetable. This past weekend up in Umbria I took advantage of artichoke season and paired roasted artichokes with sheep’s milk ricotta and spicy green arugula.


I make this a lot, but it’s never the same twice. The recipe always changes depending on the time of year, but does follow this pattern (more or less). The ricotta gets whipped until its light and fluffy. I add lots of citrus (usuallylemon juice and zest) as well as chopped herbs (this time mint). Next a big pile of dressed greens (I love arugula, but you can use any kind of small salad green that is in season). Finally vegetables that have been barely roasted in a hot oven, cooled and arranged artfully on top. A final flurry of flaky sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, more zest and fruity olive oil. If I’m feeling indulgent a scattering of toasted nuts on top.


The glory of this recipe  is that it’s pretty (always important) and is filling enough (cheese!) but still leaves my guests hungry for more (usually pasta, who am I kidding?) Also, it leaves room for creativity on your part.


Here are some substitutions you can use in case you can’t visit your farmer down the road to get fresh ricotta or don’t have Roman artichokes for sale at the market:


Cheese: Even if you can’t get the freshest ricotta like I can in Italy, this recipe makes even store bought ricotta delicious. But if you can’t find ricotta, you can substitute with straciatella (the creamy inside of burrata) or creamy goat cheese thinned down with a bit of whole milk yogurt.


Salad: Any spicy, dark green will do. I love arugula but watercress is a perfect substitute. I also love using radicchio for its brilliant color as well as its bitter bite.


Vegetable: If you don’t have access to fresh artichokes, or just don’t feel like trimming them, you can use any vegetable that stands up well to roasting. You want something that won’t get limp (no zucchini or broccoli please!) . I love roasting those multi colored carrots you can get these days, keeping them whole. Parsnips are another lovely substitute (quarter them if they are biggish). Beets are nice too, of course.


Nuts: Go wild with whatever is in your cupboard. Pine nuts (my favorite) are very expensive, so feel free to use almonds. I also love pistachios for the color. But whatever nut you use, toast them lightly to bring out their nuttiness.


Artichokes Ricotta Artichokes Ricotta Artichokes Ricotta Artichokes Ricotta Artichokes Ricotta Artichokes Ricotta Artichokes Ricotta Artichokes Ricotta Artichokes Ricotta




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artichoke and ricotta salad

Yield 6



This is the perfect salad to serve as a first course. Feel free to substitute any of the elements – cheese, salad, roasted vegetable – to come up with your own seasonal version.




Ingredients

6 artichokes
2 lemons
3 cups of ricotta
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for roasting artichokes and dressing salad
1/4 teaspoon salt, plus more for roasting
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for roasting
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint, plus more mint leaves for garnish
6 cu-8ps salad greens
1/3 cup pine nuts, lightly roasted



Instructions

Preheat oven to 350F/ 180C


Trim the artichokes by removing the outer leaves, tips and any choke. If they are roman artichokes, try to use as much of the stem as possible, trimming away the outer green layer. Keep the artichokes in a bowl of acidulated water (cool water with lemon juice)


(See this post for how to trim artichokes.)


When ready to roast artichokes, cut them in quarters and toss with enough olive oil to cover. Season liberally with salt and pepper. Lay them in one layer on one or more roasting pans. Cook until tender, about 25 minutes.


Let cool.


Place ricotta in a bowl and add olive oil, salt, pepper, juice from one lemon and finely chopped zest from one lemon, and mint. Using a hand mixer or whisk, whip until smooth, light and fluffy. If not using right way, place in refrigerator. Remove at least 30 minutes before using.


When ready to serve:


Divide the ricotta onto 6 salad plates, smoothing it out to cover the bottom of the plate.


Place salad greens in a bowl and dress with lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Divide the greens between the plates, carefully piling them on top of the ricotta.


Next place the artichokes on top of the greens. Garnish with a bit more grated lemon zest, some mint leaves, salt and pepper. A final drizzle of olive oil, then a few toasted nuts.





Artichokes Ricotta


For more inspiration on cooking an Italian feast in your own home please buy my book The Italian Table: Creating Festive Meals for Families and Friends


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Published on April 07, 2019 09:04

March 26, 2019

pasta & pancetta {alla vigliacca}

Spaghetti and Pancetta

Spaghetti and Pancetta


Spaghetti alla Vigliacca is one of my favorite recipes from The Italian Table. It’s also one of the easiest to pull together at the last minute. (maybe that’s why it’s my favorite?). Although it seems a no brainer, I first learned about this recipe at the tavola calda in the middle of the Mercato San’Ambrogio in Florence, Trattoria Rocco. This rustic trattoria is basically just a stand in the market, with formica tables ringing a central area where a steam table holds vats of soups, stews and vegetables.


Spaghetti alla Vigliacca is one of the few dishes on the menu that is made to order. Although, like I said, there is almost nothing to it.


This sauce is all about the pancetta. It uses a HUGE amount of pancetta per person. But…it is what it is. And what it is, is amazing. When Sophie and I were there while I was working on The Italian Table we got into a discussion with the owners about the amount of pancetta to use in the dish.  Sophie was definitely on ‘team more’ with the owner.  Since pancetta is the only thing going on here, try to get a hold of the best pancetta possible. Definitely do not substitute with bacon and absolutely do not use anything smoked. While Trattoria Rocco makes this with run of the mill spaghetti, and it’s pretty great, when I make it at home I try to use a more artisanal brand like Faella or Gentile, from Gragnano. It really does make a difference.


If you’re thinking,  why the recipe doesn’t call for cheese?,  that is because there isn’t any. Not even added at the table. This dish, unlike its Roman cousin Pasta alla Gricia, or even Carbonara, doesn’t have any cheese or eggs. It’s all about the pancetta with enough hot pepper to give it zing. And when you’re got that much pancetta going on, you don’t need much else.


And if you’re wondering why it’s called Spaghetti alla Vigliacca, Coward’s Spaghetti,  I have no idea. And after much asking around and research, seemingly no one else does either.


Spaghetti and Pancetta Spaghetti and Pancetta Spaghetti and Pancetta Spaghetti and Pancetta




Print


Ingredients

3/4  pound of pancetta,
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 – 3 small Italian hot chili peppers (peperoncino) or to taste
salt for the cooking water
1 pound of spaghetti



Instructions

Pancetta often comes with the skin attached. If so, first trim this off with a sharp knife. Slice the pancetta, against the grain, into 1/4 inch slices. Cut each slice into 1/4 inch pieces, across the rows of fat. You will end up with little log-shaped, fat-striated, pieces. You should end up with about 1 and a half cups of pancetta pieces.


Use a pan large enough to fit the drained pasta in later. Pour the  olive oil into the pan then add the pancetta and chili pepper. Turn on the  heat to medium low, and let the pancetta cook slowly. You don’t want it to burn and it should not even become crispy. What you’re aiming for here is chewy .Let the pancetta give up its fat slowly. If it looks very dry, as if there isn’t enough fat, you can add another tablespoon of olive oil. Turn off the heat.


Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the spaghetti and cook until almost al dente.  Drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water. Add the pasta to the pan with the pancetta, along with the water. Turn up heat, and finish cooking the pasta, mixing well to distribute the pancetta and fats over the strands of spaghetti.


When serving, the pancetta pieces tend to congregate at the bottom of the pan or bowl. Make sure everyone gets their fare share of pancetta!


You can serve with extra ground hot pepper at the table (Rocco sprinkles a bit along the edges of each plate).





This recipe is an excerpt from The Italian Table: Creating Festive Meals for Families and Friends. For more dishes to round out this menu, and for more menus and recipes, you can buy the book here.


For more information on where to eat in Florence, download my app, Eat Italy, or buy my book, Eating My Way Through Italy.


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Published on March 26, 2019 08:13

March 19, 2019

Lunch in Puglia {ideas for lent}

Masseria Potenti The Italian Table

Masseria Potenti The Italian Table


Being a Jewish girl from St. Louis you’d think that Lent would be the furthest thing from my mind. But being a food-oriented person who lives in Rome, it would be hard to ignore it. Easter is a huge deal here, and many of my friends who aren’t even that religious do give up something for Lent, the period leading up to Easter.  Most people give up meat. (My vegetarian friends usually forgo something even dearer, like chocolate. )


Since my cookbook came out last week, and it is that time of year, I’ve been getting a lot of requests asking if any of the recipes are suitable for lent?  After some thought (and asking friends who knew better than I did)  I realized that the entire chapter from Puglia would be perfect!! Mostly vegetables with a bit of fish and cheese thrown in. While I know Lent is supposed to be about giving something up, this menu makes it not only delicious, but enjoyable. (which I guess is not very Lentish?) (Is that even a word?) And even though you may also be giving up alcohol during Lent, I’ve included advice about what to drink, since really, this menu is good to go any time of the year (especially in summer!)


Anyway…here is my idea for a menu for Lent. I’ll include the recipe for the pasta. I’ll also include a recipe for almond cookies that didn’t make it into the book (not enough room!) .  For the rest I’m afraid you’ll have to go directly to the source The Italian Table.


Menu

Aperitivo


Friselle con pomodori/ Rusks with tomatoes


Crostini con ricotta e marmelata di perperoncino/ Crostini  with ricotta and hot pepper jam


Taralli


Antipasto


Rotolini di zucchini con ricotta – Ricotta stuffed Zucchini


Primo


Pasta con pomodorini schiacciati e rughetta – Pasta with Cherry Tomatoes and Arugula


Secondo


Sformato di pesce con vedura – Fish and Vegetable Terrine


Dolce


Torta dei Ficchi / Fig Cake


Almond Cookies


Setting the Table

Maria Grazia and Chiara’s  (the owners of Masseria Potenti) outgoing and colorful personalities are perfectly reflected in every aspect of the way they entertain. Against the blindingly white backdrop of the Masseria in the full sun, they set tables that are all bold color and surprising contrasts.


For this lunch Maria Grazia set a table in the shade of one of the Masseria’s stone alcoves. The white washed walls reflect the light, while the deep arched ceiling protects from the sun.


When deciding what colors to use to ‘dress’ a table, Maria Grazia takes into consideration not just the setting, but the light as well. For candlelit dinners she tends towards white, which will reflect the soft setting sun and the flickering fairy lights which hang every where. Instead, for a lunch beneath the shade of one of the covered  areas she chooses shades of blue  to instill a sense of coolness to an otherwise hot afternoon.


A handwoven piece of linen fabric, from her collection of textiles, acts as a tablecloth, strewn across the center of the table, acting as a sort of runner. Her set of turquoise colored plates, made in nearby Grottaglie, are handmade by artisans that have been crafting ceramics for centuries. In addition to plates, she uses a footed fruit bowl, a pitcher and a ceramic pine cone (a good luck talisman) to add height. Chiara is in charge of the centerpiece, mixing flowers with grapes (yet another shade of blue) cut from the nearby pergola.


Maria Grazia doesn’t believe in too much matching, and uses an array of vintage glasses and flatware collected over the years to animate the table even further.


What to Drink

Pugliese wines have undergone a renaissance recently and at Masseria Potenti they produce and serve their own. Before Rose became so trendy, it was always a thing in Puglia and now almost everyone produces it. Usually made from the grape Negroamaro, it is a bright, crisp and not too fruity. A perfect choice for a summer menu.


The most famous red from Puglia is Primitivo. It is the name of both the grape as well as the wine. The wines tend to be very dark and joyfully fruity. The name Primitivo actually refers to the fact that the grapes ripen early, with a lot of sugar, yet they ripen unevenly so that green grapes are usually on the bunches as well, which balances things out.Pasta con pomodorino schiacciato e rughetta / Pasta with Smashed Tomatoes and Arugula


 


Masseria Potenti The Italian Table Masseria Potenti The Italian Table Masseria Potenti The Italian Table Masseria Potenti The Italian Table Masseria Potenti The Italian Table




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Pasta with Smashed Tomatoes and Arugula


This is one of those nothing recipes that relies on extraordinary ingredients. The cherry tomatoes used here are daterini, a particularly intense variety that is grown on the estate. If you’re unsure if your cherry tomatoes are up to the job just taste one. If it tastes watery and bland, this recipe won’t do anything to improve it. Better to move on to another recipe or else search out better tomatoes. Or used canned cherry tomatoes which will do in a pinch.


The arugula used here is the perennial variety, that grows wild in Puglia. Tough and spicy, it adds both flavor and texture to the dish. Pre-washed, bagged, hothouse arugula may not have the same effect but you can always substitute another green, like watercress.




Ingredients

1 pound / 500 grams of orecchiette or cappunti
1 pound cherry tomatoes
1 bunch arugula or other spicy green
1/3 cup of extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup of basil leaves
Salt
Pepper
1 cup of grated ricotta salata



Instructions

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the pasta and let cook till almost done.


In the meantime pour the oil in a large pan big enough to hold the drained pasta later. Add the cherry tomatoes, basil and salt and pepper. Let it cook over high flame for about 10 minutes.


Drain the pasta, and add to the pan with the tomatoes, using the back of your spoon to smash the tomatoes, letting their juice run out. Toss to coat the pasta completely.


To serve: place portions in individual bowls and then scatter with fresh arugula leaves and grated ricotta salata. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and serve.





Masseria Potenti The Italian Table




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Almond Cookies


Almond cookies are standard fare all over the south of Italy, where groves of almond trees are as plentiful as olives and grapes. These little cookies are a classic that typically show up at the end of meals. They are extremely dense and filling, so one per person is usually more than enough. Since they contain no wheat flour, they are also gluten free.


If you don’t feel like dealing with a pastry bag, you can always just spoon the batter directly onto the parchment. And if you don’t like candied fruit, you can also leave that off.




Ingredients

2 1/2 cups of almond flour
2 cups of powdered sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons of honey
3 or 4 egg whites
1 cup of granulated sugar
1/3 cup of candied cherries, diced



Instructions

Place the almond flour and the sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer. Mix and then add 3 of the egg whites, and the honey. Mix well and if it seems too stiff, you can add the extra egg white.


Place the batter in a pastry bag equipped with a star tip.


Preheat the oven to320°F 170°C


Line a baking sheet with parchment.


Using the pastry bag, form cookies that are about 1 1/2 inch diameter. When you have formed them all, sprinkle lightly with granulated sugar and top each with a piece of candied cherry, pressing it in gently to the top.


Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, being careful not to over cook.


Let cool completely. Can be stored in an airtight container and will keep for a few weeks.





 


The above recipes and story is an excerpt from my new book The Italian Table: Creating Festive Feasts for Families and Friends. The recipes  referred to in the menu above (and many more!)  can be found in my book.  You can find it at your local bookstore or order it online from the usual sources found here.


 


The entire chapter was photographed, and then eaten, at the gorgeous Masseria Potenti in Puglia.


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Published on March 19, 2019 09:45

March 12, 2019

The Italian Table is published Today!!

The Italian Table

The Italian Table


Today’s the day! Happy Birthday to my new book The Italian Table: Creating Festive Feasts for Family and Friends. If you’ve pre-ordered your copy you should be receiving it in the mail today. And if not? What are you waiting for?


I’ve been working on this baby for about six years. From first thought to first page, I’ve put my heart and soul into it. At first I had a rather limited idea about about what this book could be, and in fact the working title was the Italian Dinner Party Handbook. But along the way it became something bigger, and with Rizzoli’s backing it’s now much more than just a ‘handbook’. It’s a large, gorgeous, fully illustrated cookbook that will give you not just recipes, but loads of ideas of how to cook and host any type of meal you’d like. From Lunch to Dinner, and everything in between (you know I’m talking Cocktail Parties) you’ll fine practical information (recipes, time plans, resources) as well as inspiration (table setting, lighting, glassware and more).


If you’ve been reading my blog over the last couple of years, you’ll already understand the idea behind The Italian Table. I’ve been posting a lot about hosting meals at home. My main idea behind these posts was to give you a full menu, because that is often the quandary most hosts face when entertaining. And yes, there are pretty pictures, and of course recipes.  But there is also advice about entertaining, including setting the table, timing and what to drink. Because for me, these elements are as important as which shape of pasta you choose for your cacio e pepe.


Anyway, six years, four editors and countless titles later, today I am finally giving birth to this gorgeous book. I am SO happy with how it’s turned out. I have to admit that way back in 2013 I would have never thought I would both write AND photograph a cookbook. But I have. And am thrilled with the great job that Rizzoli has done in designing exactly what I envisioned.


I could go on and on and on. And I will! I’ve got a big book tour planned for April/May. You can find the dates and places here and I’ll be filling in the missing bits in the next week or so.


I’ll also be doing a lot of fun press (radio, TV, etc) so make sure you are following along on FB or Instagram where I’ll be linking.


I hope to see you virtually as you cook your way through Italy, but I also hope you can make it to one of my many stops so we can meet up in real life.


One more thing: If you do have a copy of The Italian Table, and want to share anything you’re cooking I’d love to repost it. Make sure you tag me on Instagram (@eminchilli) or on FB. And use and follow the hashtag #TheItalianTable to join in the fun


My grammar check just informed me that there are WAY too many exclamation points in the this post. Hah!! Can you blame me??!!!!!!!


You can find The Italian Table at your local bookstore or order it online from all the usual sources. You can find all the links here.


Please see this page for the list of places where I will be signing books. If you can’t make it to an event in your city, you can still order a copy of the book which I am happy to sign at any bookstore I will be visiting.


 


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You can find The Italian Table at your local bookstore or order it online from all the usual sources. You can find all the links here.


 


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Published on March 12, 2019 06:50

February 27, 2019

santo palato {Rome}

Santo Palato Rome

Santo Palato Rome


Here follow some very sorry looking photos of a very fantastic restaurant. Know that the quality of the photos is directly related (in the other direction) to the amount of fun (wine) we were having and the sheer joy in the food. (yes, that is food on my iPhone that is blurring the images). 


The restaurant is Santo Palato and if you haven’t heard of it then you haven’t really been reading anything about new restaurants in Rome over the last year or so. The chef, Sarah Cicolini is the young and extremely talented powerhouse behind this completely fantastic trattoria.


In keeping with a newish trend in Rome Santo Palato feels like it had been there forever. Just enough thought and patina, as well as worn in chairs and marble topped tables, to make it feel like an old fashioned trattoria.  The dishes use ingredients that are familiar to anyone who frequents markets in Rome, but taken up several notches. Innards are big here. While there are delicious seasonal vegetables you’d be missing the point if you avoided some of the meatier offal-driven dishes.


While looking at the menu (both the paper one as well as the daily specials on the chalk board) a plate full of appetizers arrived. Pizza e mortazza – freshly baked pizza bianca cut open with a slice of mortadella. Along side a small cocktail made from the local liqueur of gentian root. What could be funner that that?


We pretty much ordered one of everything from the chalk board to share as antipasti. A plate full of wild greens was a tangle of deliciousness sauteed in olive oil, garlic and touch of hot pepper. The terrine made from veal tongue was topped with house made giardiniera  and a generous dollop of salsa verde. The bruschetta was barely roasted cherry tomatoes piled on top of a charred piece of sourdough bread made by Gabriele Bonci and topped with an olive oil slicked slice of ricotta. The frittata with chicken innards came sizzling to the table in its own little pan. I think the deep fried and breaded meat ball made from oxtail was all of our favorite.


Seconds were just as successful and plate-lickingly good. The slowly braised beef cheek came out with rich mashed potatoes in a pool of thick wine gravy. Sarah’s version of pasta e fagioli is studded with pork rind and uses a mixture of different shapes of pasta that is actually very common in the region where Cicolini comes from, Abruzzo.


If offal isn’t your thing, I would suggest you go anyway, Her standards like Carbonara and Amatriciana are worth the trip. But if you are feeling adventurous and think you might want to try tripe? This is the place to do it. Trust me. OK?


A small but very interesting wine list includes a great selection of natural wines and artisinal beers.


The restaurant is located just a bit out of the center, in the San Giovanni neighborhood. But don’t let that stop you. It’s super easy to get there by subway or else a short taxi ride.


We’ll be going there next week, for our final dinner of our Nose-to-Tail cooking week with Melissa Clark. Make sure you’re following Sophie on Instagram to see the feast.


Santo Palato Rome Santo Palato Rome Santo Palato Rome Santo Palato Rome Santo Palato Rome Santo Palato Rome Santo Palato Rome Santo Palato Rome Santo Palato Rome Santo Palato Rome Santo Palato Rome Santo Palato Rome Santo Palato Rome


Santo Palato

Piazza Tarquinia 4A

Rome

+39.06.7720.7354

Open for lunch & dinner.

Closed Monday.


For more on Restaurants in Rome and elsewhere download my app Eat Italy.


Eating Rome is my memoir and guide for eating your way around the city, with recipes and more.


And if you’d like to cook up  your own Italian meal order my new book: The Italian Table.


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Published on February 27, 2019 01:08