Sue Burke's Blog, page 75
May 1, 2013
Let’s leave the euro
Should Spain, Cyprus, Greece, Italy, Germany, or any other country leave the euro? We could debate that for years. In fact, it has been debated for years. But as far as we know at this moment, no country is actually considering it. (Any country considering it wouldn’t tell us, of course.)
Plenty of political and economic considerations keep the Eurozone intact, though it’s wracked with trouble. I want to consider one reason why no one wants to leave: it would cause confusion, disruption, and chaos. Even if every theoretical consideration ran in favor of leaving the euro and if politicians had the courage to act, switching to a different currency would involve “a series of very tricky issues” according to prize-winning advice from Capital Economics (link at the end of this entry).
Here’s the basic problem: If Spain re-issued the peseta, or Greece the drachma, or Portugal the escudo, what would that re-issued currency be worth compared to the euro? (Or the dollar, for that matter?) In a word, less. In three words, a lot less. Probably 30% to 50% less, plus some steep inflation — but this is only a guess. The government could declare a rate, but the market would soon find a different one.
Logically, if I knew that Spain were going to change back to the peseta any time soon, I’d withdraw all the money from my Spanish bank account, currently in euros, so I wouldn’t lose a big chunk of my life savings. That’s why any government that’s going to switch currencies must make its plans in absolute secret — or face a massive run on its banks.
To prevent that, probably on a weekend, the government would suddenly announce the switch to a new currency. The government would also have to place tight limits on the amount of money individuals and businesses could take from their bank accounts, perhaps the equivalent of €500 a week, so there would be no run on the banks. Transfers of funds to other countries would also be limited. Those limits would have to be in place until the new currency reached a stable exchange rate. No one knows how long that would take.
This would be tough on me as a housewife, but what if I were a business? How could I pay my suppliers and employees? Or sell to customers? Especially suppliers and customers outside the country.
Meanwhile, all wages, debts, investment bonds, and contracts would be immediately recalculated by law into the new currency. Some of these recalculations would be tricky. For example, Spain buys a lot of natural gas from Algeria. What currency would Algerian gas companies accept?
Government debt would need to be renegotiated; expect some lawsuits over perceived defaults. Additionally, a series of economic reforms and new labor market rules would be needed to keep inflation under control. All this would work only with close cooperation from other European Union members, who might not be eager to cooperate.
So far, so bad. But on Sunday morning after Saturday night’s surprise announcement, I might need to go out and buy a loaf of bread. How? Some analysts have suggested electronic currency, and this might work, but not for small transactions. Perhaps I could still use euro coins and bills for a while, maybe using bills with a sort of special stamp or mark so they couldn’t be spent in another country that still uses the euro. Or maybe we could use script. Or barter.
I would try to hoard my unmarked euro bills to use in another country. I don’t have a lot, but people running under-the-table operations, from tax evaders to drug dealers, always keep lots of cash on hand. They would be less hurt by the currency change than the average retiree. Crime sometimes pays. Anyone tipped off, of course, would have already withdrawn their funds from the banks. If the Argentinian experience is of use, watch out for truckloads of cash leaving the country.
The new currency would have to be printed as fast as humanly possible. But I remember that it took years to introduce the euro. Every coin-operated machine had to be updated. Cash registers had to be recalibrated. We all had to relearn how to count change, which some elderly people never managed to do. And despite all the preparation, we didn’t have enough euro-coins for a long time, so checkout clerks were exceedingly grateful for exact change.
As I studied the analyses of leaving the euro, I saw the word “chaos” repeatedly. That chaos would probably last at least a year, maybe two — but again, this is a guess. Eventually, however, the country that left the euro would shake off the problems that the euro caused, create order out of chaos, and enjoy a stronger and more competitive economic footing, although individuals and businesses would have suffered enormously.
I sincerely think Spain would be better off if it left the euro, but if I were prime minister, I’m not sure I would dare to go through with it. Confusion, disruption, suffering, and chaos: that’s not what politicians normally want to initiate.
………
For more detailed considerations, consult Leaving the euro: A practical guide by Roger Bootle and his collegues at London’s Capital Economics. The 189-page paper that won the 2012 Wolfson Economics Prize.
Gonzalo Lira offers his own practical guide with a hard look at what happened in Argentina.
A D&B special report details the risks for businesses.
Speigel International warns of a devastating impact if southern nations left the euro.
— Sue Burke
Plenty of political and economic considerations keep the Eurozone intact, though it’s wracked with trouble. I want to consider one reason why no one wants to leave: it would cause confusion, disruption, and chaos. Even if every theoretical consideration ran in favor of leaving the euro and if politicians had the courage to act, switching to a different currency would involve “a series of very tricky issues” according to prize-winning advice from Capital Economics (link at the end of this entry).
Here’s the basic problem: If Spain re-issued the peseta, or Greece the drachma, or Portugal the escudo, what would that re-issued currency be worth compared to the euro? (Or the dollar, for that matter?) In a word, less. In three words, a lot less. Probably 30% to 50% less, plus some steep inflation — but this is only a guess. The government could declare a rate, but the market would soon find a different one.
Logically, if I knew that Spain were going to change back to the peseta any time soon, I’d withdraw all the money from my Spanish bank account, currently in euros, so I wouldn’t lose a big chunk of my life savings. That’s why any government that’s going to switch currencies must make its plans in absolute secret — or face a massive run on its banks.
To prevent that, probably on a weekend, the government would suddenly announce the switch to a new currency. The government would also have to place tight limits on the amount of money individuals and businesses could take from their bank accounts, perhaps the equivalent of €500 a week, so there would be no run on the banks. Transfers of funds to other countries would also be limited. Those limits would have to be in place until the new currency reached a stable exchange rate. No one knows how long that would take.
This would be tough on me as a housewife, but what if I were a business? How could I pay my suppliers and employees? Or sell to customers? Especially suppliers and customers outside the country.
Meanwhile, all wages, debts, investment bonds, and contracts would be immediately recalculated by law into the new currency. Some of these recalculations would be tricky. For example, Spain buys a lot of natural gas from Algeria. What currency would Algerian gas companies accept?
Government debt would need to be renegotiated; expect some lawsuits over perceived defaults. Additionally, a series of economic reforms and new labor market rules would be needed to keep inflation under control. All this would work only with close cooperation from other European Union members, who might not be eager to cooperate.
So far, so bad. But on Sunday morning after Saturday night’s surprise announcement, I might need to go out and buy a loaf of bread. How? Some analysts have suggested electronic currency, and this might work, but not for small transactions. Perhaps I could still use euro coins and bills for a while, maybe using bills with a sort of special stamp or mark so they couldn’t be spent in another country that still uses the euro. Or maybe we could use script. Or barter.
I would try to hoard my unmarked euro bills to use in another country. I don’t have a lot, but people running under-the-table operations, from tax evaders to drug dealers, always keep lots of cash on hand. They would be less hurt by the currency change than the average retiree. Crime sometimes pays. Anyone tipped off, of course, would have already withdrawn their funds from the banks. If the Argentinian experience is of use, watch out for truckloads of cash leaving the country.
The new currency would have to be printed as fast as humanly possible. But I remember that it took years to introduce the euro. Every coin-operated machine had to be updated. Cash registers had to be recalibrated. We all had to relearn how to count change, which some elderly people never managed to do. And despite all the preparation, we didn’t have enough euro-coins for a long time, so checkout clerks were exceedingly grateful for exact change.
As I studied the analyses of leaving the euro, I saw the word “chaos” repeatedly. That chaos would probably last at least a year, maybe two — but again, this is a guess. Eventually, however, the country that left the euro would shake off the problems that the euro caused, create order out of chaos, and enjoy a stronger and more competitive economic footing, although individuals and businesses would have suffered enormously.
I sincerely think Spain would be better off if it left the euro, but if I were prime minister, I’m not sure I would dare to go through with it. Confusion, disruption, suffering, and chaos: that’s not what politicians normally want to initiate.
………
For more detailed considerations, consult Leaving the euro: A practical guide by Roger Bootle and his collegues at London’s Capital Economics. The 189-page paper that won the 2012 Wolfson Economics Prize.
Gonzalo Lira offers his own practical guide with a hard look at what happened in Argentina.
A D&B special report details the risks for businesses.
Speigel International warns of a devastating impact if southern nations left the euro.
— Sue Burke
April 24, 2013
Tote that bag
I just got this amazing tote bag at a stationery store here in Madrid:
And the other side is startling:
I am now properly accessorized.
— Sue Burke
April 17, 2013
Go Ahead — Write This Story: Flash fiction
Sometimes they’re called “flash fiction,” “micro-fiction,” or “short short stories,” but they have a lot in common with regular fiction: protagonists, conflict, and resolution. And all that has to fit into stories with fewer than 1000 words — or 300 words, according to some definitions. These stories come in several varieties. They can recount a single incident or several incidents over compressed time; or they can rely heavily on the voice of the narrator to reveal insight; or they can explore situations more fabulistic than realistic. If you need a short idea, here are a few:
• She lied and said she had never spoken with extraterrestrials.
• The demon held strong opinions about how to organize a successful exorcism.
• Two centuries of waiting in cryonic storage had involved strange adventures.
— Sue Burke
April 10, 2013
Spanish slang: peineta
Here in Spain, the word peineta refers to the big comb that is used with a mantilla, a lace headcovering sometimes worn on very formal occasions.
Turn a peineta upside down and it sort of looks like a digitus impudicus, a one-fingered salute. And that’s another meaning of the word “peineta.”
You can see an example of it here, a photo a Spanish politician involved in a corruption investigation greeting the media:
http://www.elmundo.es/elmundo/2013/02/17/espana/1361138434.html
They didn’t teach this word in school, but it’s what you really wanted to learn.
— Sue Burke
Turn a peineta upside down and it sort of looks like a digitus impudicus, a one-fingered salute. And that’s another meaning of the word “peineta.”
You can see an example of it here, a photo a Spanish politician involved in a corruption investigation greeting the media:
http://www.elmundo.es/elmundo/2013/02/17/espana/1361138434.html
They didn’t teach this word in school, but it’s what you really wanted to learn.
— Sue Burke
April 3, 2013
Pope Paco
I found out that the new pope had been chosen on March 13 when I entered my 7:30 p.m. class to teach English to Spanish teenagers.
“Habemus papam,” several students announced, phone and Twitter feed in hand. At the end of the class, they checked to find out who it was: an Argentinian who had chosen a unique name. They immediately began calling him “Paco,” the Spanish nickname for Francisco.
They weren’t the only ones. A Twitter hashtag for “#papapaco” (papa is Spanish for “pope”) sprang up immediately, filled with wit and attempted wit.
News outlets had been covering with the process to pick a new Pope for a month, giving both journalists and the rest of us a welcome break from relentlessly dismal reports about Spain’s bad economy and political corruption. Instead we learned everything known or speculated about Vatican corruption, Joseph Ratzinger, the history of the papacy, the step-by-step election procedure for the new pope, possible candidates, impossible candidates, and the exact footwear for the Pope emeritus. It was a good time to be a theologian if you wanted to be quoted in the news.
The most famous chimney in the world was carefully observed by the RTVE live Sistine Chapel cam.
Spain is a Catholic country. It deliberately shares the same time zone as Rome in order to be even more Catholic. But what did the average Spaniard think about all this? The response was muted, with none of the enthusiasm seen in Argentina and Italy. Not surprisingly.
According to a December 2012 Metroscopia public opinion poll, the Catholic Church as an institution isn’t especially popular.
Its charitable work ranked well with a 77% favorable rating, a considerable rise over a year earlier. That may be because in the intervening year, its social services like Cáritas have provided essential support to unemployed families. Spain’s unemployment rate is 26% – Cáritas keeps a lot of people fed who would otherwise go hungry.
Parish priests earned a 47% favorable rating. To put this in perspective, government workers were rated 66% favorable, lawyers 61%, and major Spanish businesses 49%. The clothing store Zara is more popular than priests.
As a whole, the Church as an institution was ranked 41% favorable, about the same as a year ago. At that time, Pope Benedict XVI earned the same rating. (Polls haven’t asked about him since.)
But the archbishops had dropped to only 16% favorable – a year earlier they had enjoyed 31%. In fairness, the Parliament had dropped by about as much and was also rated 16% favorable. Public opinion has soured on many institutions. But only banks, political parties, and politicians came in lower than the archbishops, who routinely meddle in politics and rely on the public treasury.
In other words, Papa Francisco faces a big job in winning back the faithful, who are skeptical about Vatican intrigue and disarray, theological quarrels, and all the other issues we got to learn about during the month of non-stop media coverage.
And I learned this story from Giovanni Boccaccio's The Decameron, a medieval Italian book:
A 14th-century businessman in Paris, Giannotto de Civigni, had a good friend, Abraham, who was a good man and a Jew. Fearing for his friend’s soul, Giannotto had long tried to covert him to Christianity. Finally, Abraham said he might consent to be baptized after he went to Rome to see first-hand the leaders of the Church. Giannotto knew what he would witness and feared: Roma veduta, fede perduta.
At the Vatican, Abraham witnessed all types of sin, decadence, corruption, and greed — most of all greed. And he decided that if the Church had survived 13 centuries in spite of such venality, it must be the true word of God. He would convert.
Pope Francis seems to be off to a good start at shaking things up, although at his age, will he last long enough to make a big difference? The Church has prevailed through worse times, that’s for sure. In Spain, we’ll all keep watching the news. In this economy, the only thing we can afford to pay is attention.
— Sue Burke
Also posted at my professional website,
“Habemus papam,” several students announced, phone and Twitter feed in hand. At the end of the class, they checked to find out who it was: an Argentinian who had chosen a unique name. They immediately began calling him “Paco,” the Spanish nickname for Francisco.
They weren’t the only ones. A Twitter hashtag for “#papapaco” (papa is Spanish for “pope”) sprang up immediately, filled with wit and attempted wit.
News outlets had been covering with the process to pick a new Pope for a month, giving both journalists and the rest of us a welcome break from relentlessly dismal reports about Spain’s bad economy and political corruption. Instead we learned everything known or speculated about Vatican corruption, Joseph Ratzinger, the history of the papacy, the step-by-step election procedure for the new pope, possible candidates, impossible candidates, and the exact footwear for the Pope emeritus. It was a good time to be a theologian if you wanted to be quoted in the news.
The most famous chimney in the world was carefully observed by the RTVE live Sistine Chapel cam.
Spain is a Catholic country. It deliberately shares the same time zone as Rome in order to be even more Catholic. But what did the average Spaniard think about all this? The response was muted, with none of the enthusiasm seen in Argentina and Italy. Not surprisingly.
According to a December 2012 Metroscopia public opinion poll, the Catholic Church as an institution isn’t especially popular.
Its charitable work ranked well with a 77% favorable rating, a considerable rise over a year earlier. That may be because in the intervening year, its social services like Cáritas have provided essential support to unemployed families. Spain’s unemployment rate is 26% – Cáritas keeps a lot of people fed who would otherwise go hungry.
Parish priests earned a 47% favorable rating. To put this in perspective, government workers were rated 66% favorable, lawyers 61%, and major Spanish businesses 49%. The clothing store Zara is more popular than priests.
As a whole, the Church as an institution was ranked 41% favorable, about the same as a year ago. At that time, Pope Benedict XVI earned the same rating. (Polls haven’t asked about him since.)
But the archbishops had dropped to only 16% favorable – a year earlier they had enjoyed 31%. In fairness, the Parliament had dropped by about as much and was also rated 16% favorable. Public opinion has soured on many institutions. But only banks, political parties, and politicians came in lower than the archbishops, who routinely meddle in politics and rely on the public treasury.
In other words, Papa Francisco faces a big job in winning back the faithful, who are skeptical about Vatican intrigue and disarray, theological quarrels, and all the other issues we got to learn about during the month of non-stop media coverage.
And I learned this story from Giovanni Boccaccio's The Decameron, a medieval Italian book:
A 14th-century businessman in Paris, Giannotto de Civigni, had a good friend, Abraham, who was a good man and a Jew. Fearing for his friend’s soul, Giannotto had long tried to covert him to Christianity. Finally, Abraham said he might consent to be baptized after he went to Rome to see first-hand the leaders of the Church. Giannotto knew what he would witness and feared: Roma veduta, fede perduta.
At the Vatican, Abraham witnessed all types of sin, decadence, corruption, and greed — most of all greed. And he decided that if the Church had survived 13 centuries in spite of such venality, it must be the true word of God. He would convert.
Pope Francis seems to be off to a good start at shaking things up, although at his age, will he last long enough to make a big difference? The Church has prevailed through worse times, that’s for sure. In Spain, we’ll all keep watching the news. In this economy, the only thing we can afford to pay is attention.
— Sue Burke
Also posted at my professional website,
March 27, 2013
Pass this test!
These days I’m studying to get a Spanish driver’s license. I drove for years in the United States, so I’m not worried about the behind-the-wheel test — but the written theory exam is killing me. Of the 15,500 possible questions, I will be asked 30, and I must get 27 correct to pass. And they’re hard questions, so I’m spending my free time taking practice exams. Here are some examples:
1) A motorcycle driver on a urban road must maintain a distance with vehicles at his or her side...
A. of at least a meter and a half.
B. proportional to the speed, width and characteristics of the pavement.
C. of at least one meter.
2) Is a motorcycle an automobile?
A. No, because all automobiles have four wheels.
B. Yes, because all vehicles that have motors are automobiles.
C. Yes, because it is a motorized vehicle that serves to transport people.
3) Pedestrians who use roller skates or skateboards...
A. must circulate on the pavement when they move faster than a human walking speed.
B. always circulate on the right shoulder.
C. are permitted to circulate on residential streets.
4) In sections of roads too narrow for two vehicles to pass, the vehicle with the right-of-way is the one that...
A. has greater difficulty in maneuvering.
B. is headed downhill.
C. enters the narrow section first.
5) In the absence of other signals, a green light in the shape of an arrow pointing down over a lane of traffic...
A. obliges the driver to remain in the lane over which the light is lit.
B. does not exempt the driver from the obligation to fulfill the general regulations about the priority of passage.
C. awards preference over all other vehicles.
6) In case of contradiction between street signs and traffic regulations...
A. the regulations prevail.
B. the most restrictive rule should be followed.
C. the sign should be obeyed.
7) When teams of animals, animals bearing loads, or livestock have to circulate on a road, they must do so...
A. on the right shoulder, and if there is no shoulder, on the right side of the pavement.
B. always off the pavement and the shoulder.
C. on the right side of the road as a requirement.
ANSWERS:
1) B.
2) C. This question involves specialized vocabulary, and I have to know it. What we would call an “automobile” in English (for example, a Honda Accord) is a “turismo” in Spanish.
3) C. “Residential streets” are a special class of streets. I need to know the classes of streets, too.
4) C. In the event of a tie, a 12-point list of rules determines who goes first. I need to memorize that list.
5) B.
6) C.
7) A. And here I thought I was learning to drive a car, not cattle.
— Sue Burke
March 24, 2013
European Science Fiction Society Awards Nominations 2013
Voting will be held at the Eurocon in Kiev, Ukraine, 11-14 April 2013.
ESFS Awards Nominations 2013 - Full List – Press version
ESFS Awards Nominations 2013 - Full List – Press version
March 20, 2013
Go Ahead — Write This Story: Critique format
A fast way to improve your writing is to critique someone else’s work: helping other writers improve their own writing. But how to critique? I learned a good method from Maureen F. McHugh.
1) Say what the works says or does in one or two sentences. This way author can see if what you read is what he or she tried to write.
2) Describe the successes of the work. The author learns what not to change, which is essential information.
3) Describe the weakest parts. Note that gentle word, “weak.”
4) Give one or two ideas for the fastest and biggest improvements. You could suggest a million improvements, but try to focus.
If you want to write a story, here are a few ideas:
• This is a dark fantasy story in which a bombastic wood sprite endows wild animals with an understanding of hunting regulations.
• This is a horror story about a smart house that wants to please its family by earning a little extra money on the side.
• This is a Nebula-winning short story involving a couple who cannot agree on the genetic attributes they want to select for their first child.
— Sue Burke
1) Say what the works says or does in one or two sentences. This way author can see if what you read is what he or she tried to write.
2) Describe the successes of the work. The author learns what not to change, which is essential information.
3) Describe the weakest parts. Note that gentle word, “weak.”
4) Give one or two ideas for the fastest and biggest improvements. You could suggest a million improvements, but try to focus.
If you want to write a story, here are a few ideas:
• This is a dark fantasy story in which a bombastic wood sprite endows wild animals with an understanding of hunting regulations.
• This is a horror story about a smart house that wants to please its family by earning a little extra money on the side.
• This is a Nebula-winning short story involving a couple who cannot agree on the genetic attributes they want to select for their first child.
— Sue Burke
March 13, 2013
March 6, 2013
A year in Madrid
Here’s what to expect if you live in Madrid, Spain:
January
The weather is cold, averaging 32ºF/0ºC at night and 50ºF/20ºC during the day. It may rain or at least drizzle frequently. It snows up in the mountains, and ski slopes fill up with customers. The snowpack provides water for the city as it slowly melts during the next six months, so in this land of frequent droughts, snow is welcome.
January 1: Get up late (see December 31). Chocolate and churros might make a good breakfast. It’s a national holiday, so you don’t have to go to work.
5: The Reyes Magos (Three Wise Men) arrive in an extravagant parade. Tons (literally) of candy are thrown to the children lining the streets, and many spectators bring umbrellas and hold them upside down to catch the candy more efficiently.
6: Epiphany, a national holiday. The Wise Men brought gifts to Baby Jesus, and during the night, they have delivered gifts to all the children (and adults). A good day for an extended family dinner.
7: Back to work.
February
Not much happens in general. The weather gets slightly warmer. Almond trees bloom, and farmers begin to plant fields.
ARCO, a big-time international art fair, is held in early February.
Depending on how Easter falls, there may be a pre-Lent Carnival in February or March with a parade downtown, children’s activities, music, and a few fashionable parties. Bigger, better celebrations occur elsewhere in the country, especially Cadiz and Santa Cruz de Tenerife. In Madrid, Carnival ends with the Burial of the Sardine on Ash Wednesday. The traditional Lenten sweet is a kind of super-sweet french toast called torrijas. Lent is also an excuse to eat a lot of delicious fish and seafood, especially salt cod.
But it’s not fair to say nothing much happens. Madrid, being a big city and the nation’s capital, always has art exhibitions, theater, movies, music, dance, ferias, museums, sports, and politics to keep you entertained – every month of the year, every year. If you’re not out having fun, it’s your own fault.
March
March 19: Father’s Day. This is really St. Joseph’s Day, honoring Jesus’ step-father. It may or may not be a holiday. (The total number of public holidays is set by law, and there are national, regional, and municipal holidays. Depending on where each one falls, the specific holidays celebrated with days off can vary each year, and they may be moved to a Monday or Friday. Pay attention to the calendar.)
Easter may fall in March or April. This is a big holiday – in religious terms, bigger than Christmas, because the promise of Christ is fulfilled. Semana Santa (Holy Week) gets less commercial attention because people don’t give gifts, but for businesses and the government, it is untouchable. Schools get the week off, and Good Thursday and Good Friday are national holidays. Many families go on trips.
Those who stay home can go to religious processions to celebrate the Passion – nowhere near as dramatic and famous as those in Seville, but since there are fewer crowds, you can actually see them. The pointy hats and robes worn by the participants, which were copied by the Klu Klux Klan for some reason, can be creepy for Americans.
April
Spring begins as early as February, but in April the flowers go into overdrive. Visit parks and gardens, such as the Royal Botanical Garden. Although sidewalk cafés operate year-round to accommodate smokers, they thrive on the first warm evening.
April 23: World Book Day. Celebrations include reading the entire novel of Don Quixote de la Mancha out loud. I’ve participated a couple of times.
The Madrid Marathon takes place in late April, with live music to accompany the athletes in the streets.
May
May 1: Fiesta de Trabajo (Labor Day). A national holiday.
2: Dos de Mayo, a local holiday celebrating the uprising on May 2, 1808, against Napoleon’s troops, which drove them out of the city. (The troops returned on May 3 and slaughtered the rebels.)
15: San Isidro Day, honoring the city’s patron saint, is celebrated with picnics at Ermita de San Isidro Park, concerts, and more, depending on the local budget (not too generous lately, for obvious reasons). The festivities include a month of bullfighting, in theory the most important bullfights of the world, although lately the promoters have been falling flat and big-name matadors have not been invited.
The first Sunday is Mother’s Day. The traditional gift is a bouquet of red and white carnations.
The national football (soccer) season ends around late May, although often with more of a whimper than a bang. Leagues are won by the team that has accumulated the most points. This year in the top division, Barcelona is so far ahead that everyone already knew in January it would win.
In late May or early June, the Feria del Libro (Book Fair) opens in Retiro Park for two weeks: 10% discounts on all purchases, big crowds, and top authors signing books.
June
Summer festivals begin. The school year ends in about the third week of June. If you haven’t gone hiking in the mountains yet, now is a good time.
International soccer competitions may be held during the summer and can arouse ecstatic enthusiasm.
While Madrid always welcomes a lot of tourists (honest, they’re welcome), the onslaught really starts.
July
¡Joder, qué calor! (Bleep, it’s hot!) The hottest month of the year, and temperatures can easily rise above 100F/40C – but it’s a dry heat. It may not rain all month.
More festivals are held in and around Madrid and there’s a lot of late night hanging out at sidewalk cafés.
August
7 to 15: The street festivals of San Cayetano, San Lorenzo, and La Paloma fill up the oldest parts of the city with colorful traditions. Due to the heat, the celebrations really start late at night. August 15 is a national holiday, the Assumption.
San Sebastian de los Reyes, a suburb, holds a runnings of the bulls considered second only to Pamplona. Subway line 1 takes you right to them. I’ve watched a couple of times, but I’ve never run because I’m not that crazy.
Some people have the month of August off from work, or at least a couple of weeks, so they go on vacation. Many families visit the pueblo (rural home town of their ancestors). The city gets kind of empty, which can be nice, although tourists take up some of the slack.
Professional football (soccer) begins again around late August.
September
Kids go back to school in about the second week of September.
October
The fall rains have triggered mushrooms up in the mountains, and those in the know go pick them. Hunting season also begins. October is a big vacation month in Japan, so there are noticeably more Japanese tourists.
12: Día de Hispanidad, or Columbus Day, a national holiday, is celebrated with a grand military parade downtown presided over by the King.
November
The weather gets noticeably cooler.
November 1: All Saints’ Day, a national holiday. You should go to the cemetery and lay flowers on the graves of family members.
December
A month filled with holidays. The Christmas Fair opens in Plaza Mayor. Some small towns near Madrid organize special holiday events, such as a town-wide live recreation of Bethlehem, camels included. (Baby Jesus, portrayed by a local infant, may only make brief appearances due to cold weather.) Shopping areas are busy busy busy.
December 6: Constitution Day, a national holiday.
8: Immaculate Conception, a national holiday. Sometimes the two are combined to “bridge” over the 7th, and the three days together are commonly called the Immaculate Constitution. It can be a good time to get out of town.
22: El Gordo, the big Christmas lottery, is drawn in the morning. Holiday celebrations begin in earnest.
25: Christmas, a national holiday. Ideally on Christmas Eve, you have dinner with your extended family and then go to midnight Mass. The tradition of Santa Claus has not taken hold in Spain. The traditional decoration is nativity scenes, which can include artistic recreations of the entire city of Bethlehem. The Royal Palace Belen (Bethlehem) is among the most spectacular, but many others are worth visiting.
31: Noche Vieja (New Year’s Eve). Another chance to spend an evening with your family – families mean everything in Spain. To ensure good luck in the coming year, you should wear red underwear and eat 12 grapes with each chime of the clock at midnight; a big crowd gathers downtown beneath the official clock. Family celebrations last into the wee hours, although younger members may slip out after midnight to attend massive dance parties that go on until 6 a.m.
Earlier in the evening, the 10K San Silvestre Vallecano race crosses the city. It attracts international running stars, and the “popular” race includes families and costumed runners – more then 30,000 athletes and joggers in all, cheered on by crowds on the curbs.
Happy New Year!
— Sue Burke
January
The weather is cold, averaging 32ºF/0ºC at night and 50ºF/20ºC during the day. It may rain or at least drizzle frequently. It snows up in the mountains, and ski slopes fill up with customers. The snowpack provides water for the city as it slowly melts during the next six months, so in this land of frequent droughts, snow is welcome.
January 1: Get up late (see December 31). Chocolate and churros might make a good breakfast. It’s a national holiday, so you don’t have to go to work.
5: The Reyes Magos (Three Wise Men) arrive in an extravagant parade. Tons (literally) of candy are thrown to the children lining the streets, and many spectators bring umbrellas and hold them upside down to catch the candy more efficiently.
6: Epiphany, a national holiday. The Wise Men brought gifts to Baby Jesus, and during the night, they have delivered gifts to all the children (and adults). A good day for an extended family dinner.
7: Back to work.
February
Not much happens in general. The weather gets slightly warmer. Almond trees bloom, and farmers begin to plant fields.
ARCO, a big-time international art fair, is held in early February.
Depending on how Easter falls, there may be a pre-Lent Carnival in February or March with a parade downtown, children’s activities, music, and a few fashionable parties. Bigger, better celebrations occur elsewhere in the country, especially Cadiz and Santa Cruz de Tenerife. In Madrid, Carnival ends with the Burial of the Sardine on Ash Wednesday. The traditional Lenten sweet is a kind of super-sweet french toast called torrijas. Lent is also an excuse to eat a lot of delicious fish and seafood, especially salt cod.
But it’s not fair to say nothing much happens. Madrid, being a big city and the nation’s capital, always has art exhibitions, theater, movies, music, dance, ferias, museums, sports, and politics to keep you entertained – every month of the year, every year. If you’re not out having fun, it’s your own fault.
March
March 19: Father’s Day. This is really St. Joseph’s Day, honoring Jesus’ step-father. It may or may not be a holiday. (The total number of public holidays is set by law, and there are national, regional, and municipal holidays. Depending on where each one falls, the specific holidays celebrated with days off can vary each year, and they may be moved to a Monday or Friday. Pay attention to the calendar.)
Easter may fall in March or April. This is a big holiday – in religious terms, bigger than Christmas, because the promise of Christ is fulfilled. Semana Santa (Holy Week) gets less commercial attention because people don’t give gifts, but for businesses and the government, it is untouchable. Schools get the week off, and Good Thursday and Good Friday are national holidays. Many families go on trips.
Those who stay home can go to religious processions to celebrate the Passion – nowhere near as dramatic and famous as those in Seville, but since there are fewer crowds, you can actually see them. The pointy hats and robes worn by the participants, which were copied by the Klu Klux Klan for some reason, can be creepy for Americans.
April
Spring begins as early as February, but in April the flowers go into overdrive. Visit parks and gardens, such as the Royal Botanical Garden. Although sidewalk cafés operate year-round to accommodate smokers, they thrive on the first warm evening.
April 23: World Book Day. Celebrations include reading the entire novel of Don Quixote de la Mancha out loud. I’ve participated a couple of times.
The Madrid Marathon takes place in late April, with live music to accompany the athletes in the streets.
May
May 1: Fiesta de Trabajo (Labor Day). A national holiday.
2: Dos de Mayo, a local holiday celebrating the uprising on May 2, 1808, against Napoleon’s troops, which drove them out of the city. (The troops returned on May 3 and slaughtered the rebels.)
15: San Isidro Day, honoring the city’s patron saint, is celebrated with picnics at Ermita de San Isidro Park, concerts, and more, depending on the local budget (not too generous lately, for obvious reasons). The festivities include a month of bullfighting, in theory the most important bullfights of the world, although lately the promoters have been falling flat and big-name matadors have not been invited.
The first Sunday is Mother’s Day. The traditional gift is a bouquet of red and white carnations.
The national football (soccer) season ends around late May, although often with more of a whimper than a bang. Leagues are won by the team that has accumulated the most points. This year in the top division, Barcelona is so far ahead that everyone already knew in January it would win.
In late May or early June, the Feria del Libro (Book Fair) opens in Retiro Park for two weeks: 10% discounts on all purchases, big crowds, and top authors signing books.
June
Summer festivals begin. The school year ends in about the third week of June. If you haven’t gone hiking in the mountains yet, now is a good time.
International soccer competitions may be held during the summer and can arouse ecstatic enthusiasm.
While Madrid always welcomes a lot of tourists (honest, they’re welcome), the onslaught really starts.
July
¡Joder, qué calor! (Bleep, it’s hot!) The hottest month of the year, and temperatures can easily rise above 100F/40C – but it’s a dry heat. It may not rain all month.
More festivals are held in and around Madrid and there’s a lot of late night hanging out at sidewalk cafés.
August
7 to 15: The street festivals of San Cayetano, San Lorenzo, and La Paloma fill up the oldest parts of the city with colorful traditions. Due to the heat, the celebrations really start late at night. August 15 is a national holiday, the Assumption.
San Sebastian de los Reyes, a suburb, holds a runnings of the bulls considered second only to Pamplona. Subway line 1 takes you right to them. I’ve watched a couple of times, but I’ve never run because I’m not that crazy.
Some people have the month of August off from work, or at least a couple of weeks, so they go on vacation. Many families visit the pueblo (rural home town of their ancestors). The city gets kind of empty, which can be nice, although tourists take up some of the slack.
Professional football (soccer) begins again around late August.
September
Kids go back to school in about the second week of September.
October
The fall rains have triggered mushrooms up in the mountains, and those in the know go pick them. Hunting season also begins. October is a big vacation month in Japan, so there are noticeably more Japanese tourists.
12: Día de Hispanidad, or Columbus Day, a national holiday, is celebrated with a grand military parade downtown presided over by the King.
November
The weather gets noticeably cooler.
November 1: All Saints’ Day, a national holiday. You should go to the cemetery and lay flowers on the graves of family members.
December
A month filled with holidays. The Christmas Fair opens in Plaza Mayor. Some small towns near Madrid organize special holiday events, such as a town-wide live recreation of Bethlehem, camels included. (Baby Jesus, portrayed by a local infant, may only make brief appearances due to cold weather.) Shopping areas are busy busy busy.
December 6: Constitution Day, a national holiday.
8: Immaculate Conception, a national holiday. Sometimes the two are combined to “bridge” over the 7th, and the three days together are commonly called the Immaculate Constitution. It can be a good time to get out of town.
22: El Gordo, the big Christmas lottery, is drawn in the morning. Holiday celebrations begin in earnest.
25: Christmas, a national holiday. Ideally on Christmas Eve, you have dinner with your extended family and then go to midnight Mass. The tradition of Santa Claus has not taken hold in Spain. The traditional decoration is nativity scenes, which can include artistic recreations of the entire city of Bethlehem. The Royal Palace Belen (Bethlehem) is among the most spectacular, but many others are worth visiting.
31: Noche Vieja (New Year’s Eve). Another chance to spend an evening with your family – families mean everything in Spain. To ensure good luck in the coming year, you should wear red underwear and eat 12 grapes with each chime of the clock at midnight; a big crowd gathers downtown beneath the official clock. Family celebrations last into the wee hours, although younger members may slip out after midnight to attend massive dance parties that go on until 6 a.m.
Earlier in the evening, the 10K San Silvestre Vallecano race crosses the city. It attracts international running stars, and the “popular” race includes families and costumed runners – more then 30,000 athletes and joggers in all, cheered on by crowds on the curbs.
Happy New Year!
— Sue Burke
