LFW Dispatch: Holly Fulton, Sibling and House of Holland

Welcome to London Fashion Week! You may want to ask an English girl a few things before we begin. For something completely different, watch Leandra hand out free advice in the park.

If you’re wondering about the ruffles, they’re all still here. On Saturday in London, indigenous designers like Holly Fulton, Sibling and Henry Holland of House of Holland showed collections that speak rather precisely to the DNA of fashion in this city. Somewhat escapist, a little bit wacky, not at all devoid of idea (whether old or new) and for the most part, firmly planted in this moment in time.

But here’s the thing about that: what does this moment in time look like?

According to Fulton, there are mod dresses. Mod dresses and slit pencil skirts, printed blouses and flared sleeves and bustier bras or dresses that wear over those tops. There are creative suits: some rendered in denim and patched not to look like the remaining insignia of a Grateful Dead concert but with their stars and swirls and corresponding bustiers, they’re prim and somehow elegant and perfect for a London summer that never quite gets warm.

Also from that camp: knit bathing suits, like those at Sibling. Which seem to be a motif running deep through the London season, especially when worn as double-a-cup blouses. There were instances of this on display at J.W. Anderson and Versus by Versace by Anthony Vaccarello. I can’t quite imagine a reality where these are being worn in earnest, but maybe that’s the point: Let’s escape the boundaries of what you will wear and instead propose what you can’t.

And from House of Holland? Three words, one preposition. Bill Murray on vacation. But also, a little bit of Gucci! Amber lenses and clashing prints that somehow work together. Striped spring turtlenecks and cropped flare pants. Feathers emerge from mules and boots and just like that, it’s fun with a capital F.

Photographs via Vogue Runway

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