Tackle Your Tuesday with 3 Fast Recaps: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Thom Browne, Maiyet

Catch up on the fash-up: see what Leandra did, what Amelia ate, what two designers said and what Krista captured. 

But first…

At 3.1 Phillip Lim, satin trousers and shorts blossomed at the waist thanks to thick fabric belts that caused a paper-bag effect — emphasis on the word “effect,” because there was nothing frumpy about the way in which in which they slouched. To do: fish out anything with a rip-chord toggle from the depths of your high school closet. Preferably windbreakers. The early 2000s are coming, but there are no reasons left to be scared.

Then..

Declan Kearney, former designer director at Alexander Wang and Maiyet’s newest creative director, ran so fast around the looping track to give his bow that it looked like he left his phone in a cab — but that’s New York for you, and it’s what the energy of the city will do to you. The models walked super fast, too.

It wasn’t Kearney’s runway debut, but it was Maiyet’s first time showing in Manhattan after seasons spent presenting in Europe. (It’s a NY-based brand: welcome back.) He’s added a bit of Wang edge to the clean, classic vibe while keeping the whole thing tidy and cool, but one of the most interesting things about Maiyet remains its message: the brand is dedicated to forging partnerships with global artisans, and this Spring 16 collection was dedicated to (I’m paraphrasing) bad ass women. Raise your hand if you can get behind that.

Later, but not last:

Thom Browne’s show was less theatrical than seasons past, but no less of a crowd-pleaser; it ended in uproarious applause. We clapped for the impeccably tailored jackets and pleated skirts, the deliberately shrunken sleeves and overall wearability (a big word this season) of Browne’s practical yet still whimsical, subversive collection.

There’s something creepy about combining geisha references (the makeup, riffs on the traditional “Geta” sandals) with an elementary school girl theme (forgot to tell you, the spectacle took place in a classroom), but that’s Browne — turning the industry up on its head, then blurring reality before you can get your bearings. It was never quite clear for the entire show: were the models the ones walking upside down (their pigtails pointed toward the sky as bikes and shrubs hung from the ceiling), or was it us? Of course, in the same way a magician never reveals his tricks, why should Thom Browne tell?

Photographs via Vogue Runway and NowFashion.com

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