Tackling the John Muir Trail: From Yosemite South to Devils Postpile

Inspired by a friend who stood on top of Mt Whitney (14,505ft) last year after section hiking the 215-mile John Muir Trail, I've been gradually knocking off pieces of the JMT. My goal is to summit Mt Whitney by 2015, to see if I can do it post-traumatic brain injury (TBI). Ever since a shipboard accident in South America several years ago, I've been working hard to rebuild my balance, strength, endurance and tolerance for high elevations.

Though hampered by the massive Rim Fire, this year's section hike along the JMT took us 35 miles from Yosemite National Park's Tuolumne Meadows to Devils Postpile National Monument, right outside Mammoth Lakes.

Day 1 is a warm-up day to stretch your legs and flex your backpacking muscles. It's not too difficult of a climb from Tuolumne Meadows up through Lyell Canyon, going approximately 10 miles. Plan on camping near water - either by a stream crossing or beside a small lake - somewhere down below Donahue Pass.

Day 2 is more of a challenge, ascending to Donahue Pass (11,056ft). Surprisingly, there's no marker for the pass - just boundary signs for Yosemite National Park and the Ansel Adams Wilderness. It's a mostly downhill trek to Thousand Island Lake, skipping down through fields of granite rocks, streamside wildflower meadows and pocket lakes. Stopped by a rainstorm after 11 miles, we ended up camping between Thousand Island Lake and Garnet Lake, arguably the most scenic beauties along this section of the JMT.

Day 3 is not easy: 14 miles with thousands of feet of elevation gain and loss. From Garnet Lake, you'll steeply ascend, then drop back down to the Shadow Lake junction with the trail to Agnew Meadows, where suddenly you'll be in the company of shiny-haired day hikers. It's a brutal 600ft climb of about a mile up to Rosalie Lake, followed by a shorter, less steep ascent to Gladys Lake. Soon the trail starts relentlessly switchbacking and tumbling downhill through thick forest without many views. Eventually, you'll pop out near marshy Johnson Lake. You can filter water at the next stream crossing about 15 minues away. From there, it's just a few miles to Devils Postpile. 





If you're thinking of doing this route, here are a few practical tips to make your trip easier: 

Transportation: Shuttle two cars, leaving one at the overnight (upper) parking area outside Devils Postpile. Otherwise, hike during the Reds Meadow summer shuttle season, when you can ride a bus from Devils Postpile to Mammoth Lakes, then take the YARTS bus from Mammoth Lakes to Tuolumne Meadows. Depending on when you exit the trail, you may need to stay overnight in Mammoth Lakes to catch the YARTS bus to Yosemite the next day.

Trailhead permits: Although it's easier to get an overnight wilderness permit starting from the south in the

Weather & when to go: For the most accurate weather information for Tuolumne Meadows and
Bear-resistant canisters: These are required for storing all food, garbage and scented items during wilderness trips in Yosemite and the Ansel Adams Wilderness. Rent a reliable old Garcia model from Yosemite, or invest in your own lighter-weight canister. I carry the Bear Vault 500, which is big enough for two people taking a 4-day trip, if you pack efficiently.

What are your favorite hikes in Yosemite National Park and the Eastern Sierra? Let us know by leaving a comment.

Related links:
Visiting Yosemite National Park? 5 Tips to Avoid Being Driven Mad by Crowds
US National Parks: The 4 Biggest Advantages of Autumn Travel
Fall Travel: Sunshine on California's Coast

Photo credits: Sara J. Benson & Michael Connolly Jr.