I've Tried Hundreds of Whiskeys. This Surprisingly Affordable Bourbon Is an Experiment That Paid Off
Some distilleries tout experimental releases, but there are varying degrees of what makes these spirits actually experimental or not. Craft distillery Chattanooga Whiskey, for example, has a deep bench experimental releases that actually seems to meet the qualifications. The whiskeys are made from different mash bills, aged in different types of barrels, and even have infusions that stray far from the norm.
Then, there are distilleries that claim a new release is the result of a fortuitous accident, something that's always best taken with a grain of salt given how carefully brands control their stocks of new and aging whiskeys.
Sometimes, however, both of these things are based in reality. Such very well might be the case with the new Remus Bourbon Master Distiller Experimental Series, the first whiskey in a new collection that's produced at Indiana distillery MGP. According to MGP, this new series is all about exploring the effects of different grains, mash bills, and maturation methods on whiskey. The first release was the result of a "happy accident.”
In 2015, some whiskey at Ross & Squibb—the in-house production arm of MGP—was put into lightly charred, heavily toasted Seguin Moreau barrels with staves that were seasoned for 24 months. That differs from the usual barrels used by MGP, which are char number four staves with char number two heads. Seguin Moreau is a cooperage with outposts in Napa, Bordeaux, and Cognac that makes casks that are used to age wine and cognac. According to master distiller Ian Stirsman, the bourbon was aged for a full nine years in these barrels, so it wasn't a finish.
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“They were not wine barrels,” Stirsman said. “The accident was that when we purchased the barrels, they were not intended to be different from our standard barrel.”
It's indeed unlike most other whiskeys I've tried from MGP. The bourbon was bottled at 107 proof, so there’s a nice flash of heat that starts each sip. There’s a rich intensity of flavor on the palate, with prominent notes of dark fruit, caramel, red berries, spiced apple, leather, and multiple layers of oak. A little bit of water opens this bourbon up to reveal even deeper layers, softening its initial assertiveness and bringing more citrus and vanilla notes into the mix.
“The Experimental Series is our new creative playground, where distilling heritage meets bold innovation," said Stirsman in a statement. “Our goal is to make our chapter in the long legacy of Remus Bourbon one that’s worth reading. I look forward to bringing something new to bourbon drinkers year after year.”
I’d say he’s succeeded in reaching those goals, because this new whiskey really does offer something different from the stable of bourbon and rye whiskeys that make up the Ross & Squibb lineup. You can find the new Remus Bourbon Master Distiller Experimental Series available now in select states around the country with a price tag of $80 per bottle.
Related: Don't Listen to Whiskey Snobs. Here Are the Best Ways to Enjoy Bourbon
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