Albanian Bunkers- Fear and Paranoia

Dictator Enver Hoxha ruled over Albania for almost half a century during this time Albania was the most isolated country in Europe. It was also the poorest European nation during the cold war. Currently that title belongs to Ukraine, followed by Moldova and North Macedonia. It still doesn’t make sense that Albania is on the top 5 impoverished European nation’s list given that Albania has the largest onshore oil field in continental Europe! Someone is profiting from it, and it’s clearly not the common man.

Albania’s isolation from the world was fueled by the dictator’s paranoia. There’s Cuban communism that still allows outsiders to visit and then there’s Albanian communism that didn’t allow her citizens to leave or let visitors in. The repercussions during that 50 year period go from severe – execution and torture of citizens to economic – stifling the tourism economy. Enver Hoxha had his people build 173,000 concrete bunkers throughout the country for citizens to take refuge if the “enemy” attacked. Most of these are abandoned single person bunkers with nothing to ponder about. But there are two bunkers – that I know off – that have been converted to museums which a worth a visit. Bunk’Art2 which is in the heart of Tirana, right by Skanderbeg Square. We did not go into this one as it showcases the history of torture which would be inappropriate for children. But we did visit Bunk’Art1 which is an engineering marvel. Taking pointers from North Korea, this Bunker is a 5-story underground maze, in the outskirts of Tirana, with a dedicated dwelling for the dictator himself and a smaller setup for his right hand man.

While there is no access to sunlight, the underground floors are far from claustrophobic. Tall ceilings, spacious room, an assembly hall that can comfortably house 80 adults with a big center stage, cafeteria area, gym and more. It is incredible to walk through. About half the rooms have posters, propaganda from the communist era, equipment like radios and phones on display and information printed in Albanian and English. A good 2 hours is needed to truly take in what this bunker represented. In simpleton language this is the perfect example of paranoia and doom’s day preparation. This bunker was aimed to shield the dictator and his cronies, only the political elite, from a nuclear attack – one that never came. The bunker was also largely kept a military secret. Incidentally the bunker was finished post Enver Hoxha’s death. 

I found the military liaison room and telecoms room all too eerie, with old black and white videos playing in he background where you can hear Hoxha’s voice. Bunk’Art1 is a brilliant showcasing of Albanian history from the Italian invasion, Nazi ties, collaboration w Russia, North Korea and China to the end of communism. We learned a lot from it and had the whole place to ourselves. Well done again Albania for letting us get a glimpse of your past