“The New Look” Review – Slow, Steady, Resilient
Sneha Jaiswal (Twitter | Instagram)
“Monsieur Dior, is it true that during the German occupation of Paris, Coco Chanel closed her atelier and refused to design dresses for the wives of Nazis, while you kept designing and making money?”
This probing question, posed in the prologue of Todd A. Kessler’s ‘The New Look,’ encapsulates the moral dilemmas at the heart of this gripping series. Set against the backdrop of Nazi-occupied Paris in the 1940s, the narrative delves into the contrasting lives of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel amidst the chaos of war. As Dior reflects on the complexities of survival and compromise, the series transports viewers back to this tumultuous era, revealing the hidden truths behind the glamorous facade of haute couture.
Spread over ten episodes, “The New Look” is a heady mix of art, war, and fashion during the times of Nazi occupation, inspired by real people and events. The creators clearly take creative liberties with historical accuracy to enhance dramatic impact. Ben Mendelsohn plays Christian Dior, who works under French couturier Lucien Lelong (John Malkovich) before ascending to stardom as a designer, eventually surpassing the reputation of Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche). But it’s not all clothes, beauty, and frills for these designers, who despite living in their own bubble, must also face fear, intimidation, and desperation that comes with being under the scrutiny of Hitler’s Gestapo in the 1940s.
Click here for detailed episode by episode review of “The New Look”
“The New Look” unfolds three distinct storylines in parallel. While the challenges faced by Christian Dior and Coco Chanel take center stage, the series also explores the struggles of Christian’s sister, Catherine (Maisie Williams). As a member of the French Resistance, Catherine survives a Nazi labor camp, only to grapple with the painful journey of recovery from the horrors she endured.
From its opening episode, the series establishes a complex web of characters and themes, weaving together the glamorous world of haute couture with the stark realities of war and oppression. Ben Mendelsohn delivers a compelling performance as Christian Dior, whose rise from obscurity to fame is fraught with personal sacrifice and moral dilemmas. Alongside him, Juliette Binoche is duplicitously fabulous as Coco Chanel, portraying her as both a formidable shrewd businesswoman and a calculative ambitious human who’d do anything to have things her way, even if it means getting her hands dirty. She taps into a friend’s Nazi connections to rescue her nephew, a decision that gets her knee deep into troubles.
Throughout “The New Look”, the cinematography skillfully captures the contrast between the opulence of high society and the hardships faced by ordinary citizens, creating a visually striking portrayal of life under occupation. The attention to detail in recreating the fashion of the era is particularly impressive, even though Dior’s iconic designs do not get as much space as viewers might expect, given the title of the series. The background score for the series is music to the ears, composed of classic French tunes and nostalgic piano flourishes that perfectly complement the scenes unfolding on your screen.
One of the series’ greatest strengths lies in its exploration of themes such as resilience, redemption, and the power of creativity to transcend adversity. The relationship between Christian and his sister Catherine, portrayed with warmth and sincerity by Maisie Williams, serves as a poignant reminder of the bonds that unite families in times of crisis. The makeup and styling department have done an excellent job transforming Maisie Williams into Catherine; she looks every bit the working-class French girl when introduced. Her transformation into an emaciated Nazi prisoner is even more haunting.
“The New Look” is laden with new twists and turns, from Coco’s dealings with Nazi collaborators to Dior’s struggles to establish himself as a designer in his own right. While the whole cast of this series is believable in their roles, two supporting actors who stood out most are John Malkovich as Dior’s kind mentor Lucien Lelong and Emily Mortimer as Chanel’s close friend Elsa Lombardi.
The pacing may vary across episodes, with some moments feeling slower than others, especially the middle episodes, that seem to meander a little more than necessary, but the overall narrative manages to remain engaging. Each episode builds upon the last, culminating in a satisfying and emotionally resonant finale that celebrates the triumph of hope and imagination over despair. Christian Dior’s dream to “design the most beautiful women’s clothing” is realized poignantly in the climactic episode.
Overall, “The New Look” is a compelling series that offers a fresh perspective on familiar historical events. With its stellar cast, and sumptuous production values, it succeeds in capturing the essence of an era defined by both darkness and light. Whether you’re a fashion enthusiast, a history buff, or simply a lover of well-crafted storytelling, this series is worth a watch.
Stream the series on Apple TV+
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