Saved from Sinking Sand

My husband and I recently returned from a trip to the UK, fulfilling travel plans made and cancelled more than two years before. We were so thankful to be able to visit England again, and felt oddly privileged to be there when Queen Elizabeth died—to be able to watch the news with locals and to witness their heartfelt reactions firsthand.

While we were “across the pond,” one of the places we belatedly visited was the north coast of Cornwall, the setting of my novel, A Castaway in Cornwall.

We took the ferry from the town of Padstow across the Camel estuary to the village of Rock, and from there, walked on a narrow, sandy track along the coast and skirted a golf course on a quest to find one of the area’s most unforgettable landmarks—St. Enodoc Church.

Camel Estuary with the dreaded “Doom Bar” sand bar showing, which sunk many ships

After a wrong turn or two we ended up taking a circuitous route partway up Brea Hill (which, although taxing, also afforded a bird’s eye view of the churchyard).

St. Enodoc Churchyard from above

Eventually we made it. How wonderful to see the place in person, which was much as I’d envisioned it when describing it in the novel. (Although now, thankfully, not buried in sand!)

St. Enodoc with the estuary and sea in the background

From the sixteenth to the middle of the nineteenth century, this chapel built among sand dunes was all-but buried by blowing and shifting sand. For that reason, people called it “Sinkininny Church,” or “Sinkin’ Neddy.” To maintain tithing rights and consecration, the vicar had to host services there at least once a year. Because the door was covered by sand, he descended into the sanctuary through a hole in the roof. In the novel, this entrance into the church provides a hiding place when the hero is being pursued.

Lychgate with coffin rest (left) and the porch door being decorated for a wedding (right)

By 1864, the sand was removed and the church restored, primarily through the efforts of the local vicar. This mostly-above-ground church is the St. Enodoc we are able to see and enjoy today.

After exploring the church and graveyard for a time, my husband and I continued on to see other places mentioned in the book: Daymer Bay, Trebetherick, Greenaway Beach (my character’s favorite), and finally Polzeath, before beginning the long trek back to the ferry. Our fitness watches logged over ten miles that day!

Daymer Bay with Trebetherick above (left) and Greenaway Beach (right)

The walk was memorable and satisfying—perhaps all the more because of the effort it took to reach our goal. Have you taken any long walks lately? Searched out a place or landmark you longed to visit? Please share.