After The Wave

The area of Portugal I grew up in, or rather the part of the ocean accessible from it — when I was little an excruciating 2 hour trip through the city on overcrowded, irregularly spaced buses, now 15 minutes up the highway — is known for sudden and incredibly impressive waves. So impressive it’s become a surfing paradise, drawing people from all over the world.

When I was eight — I think — I drowned. Oh, no, not really. Not even to the point of stopping breathing and needing resuscitati...