Itacate

A few weeks ago, I was eating at one of the taco stands that have sprung up recently in Paris. We were feeling rather lucky having achieved the impossible — finding a spot for three for dinner — but it turned out that my real luck was being seated next to a chatty gentleman from Mexico.

As we discussed important topics such as the best tequila to use in a margarita, and roving Beijing taco trucks (I ate regularly at the one owned by his friend), my neighbor told me about another taqueria — his favorite — in the 1e. Needless to say, I ran over there at the first opportunity.

With its plastic tables and chairs, Itacate is reminiscent of a joint in an Orange County strip mall. But the food has true south-of-the-border-spirit, even if the salsa has been toned down for timid French tongues.

Not everything was a winner. But the tacos that were good were like Olympic medalists. The pork carnitas featured luscious roasted meat — teetering just on the modest edge of lean — rolled with a sprinkle of cilantro and squeeze of lime into a corn tortilla. Nothing could be simpler or more satisfying. (Well, maybe a dollop of truly fiery salsa, unapologetic and not patronizing, would have been even more satisfying.)

The chorizo taco, with house-made sausage meat, won the silver medal, a salty blend of spice and succulence that left my fingers slippery with red grease. It left me wanting more — more tacos, washed down by more frozen margaritas (an affordable indulgence at 4.50€ a pop).

Itacate

94 rue St-Honoré, 1e

tel: 01 42 33 39 87