The Bun Maska that waited for a decade….
The Mava cake and the Chicken Dhansak, the Bun Maska and the Jam Puffs, the Bread Pudding and the Irani Chai have their own clientele. While the Iranian cafes in Mumbai is reducing in numbers, some of them still hold their ground strong, only because of the great quality and taste of the food they offer.
I remember an August afternoon in 1996, I stood in front of such a restaurant at the Horniman Circle with my childhood friend Sujan Guha Chaudhury. That was the first time I was visiting Mumbai. Sujan had a relative staying in Chembur and his father was a senior engineer on an offshore, oil rig in Bombay high. We were on a month long trip to Mumbai – Bombay high – Goa – Pune – Ahmedabad with a good amount of stopovers in Mumbai.
That afternoon I had experienced a quick Mumbai shower for the first time in my life and almost tasted the romantic Mumbai rain which by then I only had seen in Basu Chatterjee films. We had many things to do….many places to see; but that afternoon in my well-drenched clothing all I wanted was to enter that Iranian Cafe and to have a Bun Maska with Chai.
I couldn’t. As my friend was not much in the mood of Chai and we had a tour-list to ‘tick’ and finish.
Many years later – on another mid-May afternoon in 2006; standing on the Horniman Circle, behind Bombay Stock Exchange once again I remembered that decade-old wish. The geography of the locality was changed with new construction works around and so did my companion. This time I stood with a senior colleague of mine from my advertising field who knew the area well.
We entered a nice well-lit Iranian cafe….. heavens must have opened windows to throw flowers and rang soothing bells….. and the rest became history in my mind. That day I had Mutton Dhansak, Mava cake and Irani Chai. The Bun Maska I packed for dinner.
Yet another decade later, seating in my Patna office today as I write this small piece – all I want, is to visit that cafe; eat my heart out and finally after many hours when I sign off from the cafe I want to kiss the hands of that old gentleman at the older-looking, wooden counter; whom I met ten years ago. I do not care whether that cafe still stands at that corner or not… I do not care whether that old gentleman still mans the counter or not….. but today I want to kiss those wrinkled hands for sure.
Because that was what I wished to do the last time I visited the place… and couldn’t do it – as I thought it would not be proper. But today seating in Patna – thinking about the great food and that amazing charm of the place, I really do not care…. what is proper and what is not…..! I want to show my respect to the man for the happiness that I had encountered eating in a place that he had built.
Well that’s a sudden adrenaline rush – a sudden flood of memories for me… and for other emotional fools like me, here’s a look at some of the most popular Iranian restaurants in Mumbai. Some of the places still offer the mutton dhansak and the mava cake that I can vouch for. But then again – you can always try the Chicken Biryani, Kheema Sali or the Caramel Custard…. to please your soul.
If you are at Jimmy Boy (Vikas Building, 11 Bank Street, Off Horniman Circle, Fort) – you can surely try Salli Par Eedu or Chicken Dhansak or Chicken Jardaloo or Patra Ni Macchhi or Berry Pulav….
If you are at the Café Excelsior (23, AK Nayak Marg, Opposite New Excelsior Cinema, Fort) which has the required typical ambience for Iranian cuisine. This place has everything you can ask for. You must try the Kheema Pav, Veg Dhansak, Mutton Cutlet, and Caramel Custard. If you have a friend and need to spend some hours you can simply order Chai and Bun Maska and spend hours together.
You can try to find out Britannia & Co (11 Sprott Road, Ballard Estate, Opposite New Customs House, Fort) – Since 1923 they have been casting their spell on the passionate patrons. The service is quick, food is tasty and the ambience is totally Irani. You must have their elaichi-laden Irani chai and delicious bun maska. You should try Mutton/Chicken Berry Pulav, Veg Dhansak, Sali Boti & Caramel Custard.
Then there is B Merwan & Co (Ali Bhai Remji Road, Opposite Station, Grant Road East), Situated right outside Grant Road station, this joint is crowded almost for the entire day. The old ambience and furniture takes you back in time. Iranian tea and the mava cake absolutely cannot be missed.
There is one Koolar & Co (541, Noor Mahal, Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Road, Kings Circle, Matunga) – The ambience will take you back a few eras and put you in the right mood to enjoy an Iranian meal. This joint is known for the classic Kheema Pav. You must also try the Maggie Noodles Masala, Veg Puff, Brun Butter.
And you have Café Leopold (S.B. Singh Road, Colaba Causeway), established in 1871. Leopold Cafe is almost synonymous with the city. It is a one-stop destination for everyone in the Colaba Causeway area. It is popular not just for the Iranian cuisine but also for the Chinese and Continental. It is also known for its beer towers priced at Rs 300.
On the Gunbow Street you find Ideal Corner (12 F/G, Hornby View, Gunbow Street, Fort, Mumbai), established in 1985, the ambience at Ideal is more modern and posh compared to the others. Given the location, it attracts a lot of people through the day. You must try the Mutton Dhansak, Mutton Salli Boti, Prawns Curry Rice and ofcourse do not miss the yummy Bread Pudding.
Yazdani Bakery Restaurant stands on – Fountain Akbar Ally, Saint Thomas Cathedral, Fort, Mumbai. This is probably the only traditional Iranian bakery left in the city. Their morning tea along with bun maska, mawa cake or vegetable puff will leave you satiated for the entire day. However, you must not leave without possibly the best Apple Pie ever.
And then there is Cafe Military (Behind Bombay Stock Exchange, Horniman Circle, Opposite HSBC Bank, Fort, Mumbai), very few places capture the charm of the good old Mumbai and Cafe Military is one of them. It’s nothing like your everyday banal restaurant. It has it’s own different swagger and a cult following!
Located next to the BSE in a very narrow lane, you can consider yourself extremely lucky if you find a parking spot. Else you might have to park on the main road. The moment you enter, you sense the Irani cafe atmosphere. Tables are the typical circular wooden ones with checkered stripes. The decor is almost half a century old and may not suit to everyone’s taste.
You can order the famous Kheema Pao and Sali Boti at any time of the day, Caramel custard and the customary Pallonji Raspberry soda will finally make you think where on earth you have been till now. The bread is made by them, so its fresh and extremely soft. The mutton is always perfect. You’ll never feel it under cooked or raw. The best Sali Boti you’ll ever eat is at this place. Its the winner! Custard too is always well prepared and finger licking good.
and of course if its an afternoon in the month of May (or in any damn month for that matter), never forget the beer as that’s the USP of the place: Cheap beer! They used to sell Khajurao beer which is extremely rare but they have now discontinued it. Other than that, all the regular ones are available. Go happy Boy !
Victor Ghoshe
08 June, 2016
