Janet MacLeod Trotter's Blog, page 15
November 7, 2012
Cool Camping, hot cay and a silver moon over Western Iran, 1976
FRIDAY 5TH NOVEMBER, 1976
I’m the chef so it must be porridge?!
“Freezing morning – hands nearly dropped off. Same scenery – plains and hill ranges.
Sat at front for first time!
Stopped for shopping at Sanandaj. Lots of men dressed in Kurdish costume – super turbans with tassles, cummerbunds etc. Had cay in place where men were smoking hubble-bubble pipes. On walls were pictures of the Shah and Empress and carpets with Mecca depicted.
Walked around – saw bread being made. Big vat of dough – first man shaped in into rounds, second man rolled them out, third man slapped them around and spread on padded sack, then bashed them onto sides of oven until slightly brown, then sold thin wafery bread straight away.
Policeman chased people away from the bus.
Diana did a headstand in a cornfield, so I had a go – managed a quick one before keeled over! Lunch stop by a river – had a paddle – very cold and refreshing.
Cay stop by wayside – people sitting crosslegged under trees. Sat outside – loads of cay and great argument over prices, so probably half not paid for.
Camped near Kermanshah. Lovely sunset over hills – orangy-yellow, with pinky violet sky in east over light brown hills with a big silver moon rising. Camped off road near little village under a hill. Locals (or lurcals) came to inspect us again.”
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Filed under: Overlanders Tagged: cay, handstands, hubble-bubble pipes, Kermanshah, Kurds, Sanandaj, village oven, Western Iran
November 4, 2012
LANTERNS MADE OUT OF MELONS FOR GUY FAWKES! IRAN 1976
Iran is often portrayed negatively in the news these days, so it is strange to re-read the first impressions of my 18 year-old self, this time 36 year ago - curious, excited, naive and glad to be there.
“Breakfast outside customs house, to amusement of lorry drivers. Iran!
Small villages below hills – the hills and plains are very light in colour. Dress is different – men with jumpsuits and boots and striking turbans. Women with veils down to the ground, very light floaty material, often with jeans on underneath!
Rezaiyeh – first stop for money. All banks closed because of festival of burning of prophets. Lots of flags etc. Towns seem to have ornamental rounds in middle of them, with statues and plastic animals etc. Fountains not working. Nice town, found money changer in bazaar. Had a cay and first Iranian sticky cake! (Thurs – Neva’s gutsy day!)
People curious not pressing like Turks. Lunch was flat waffery bread and tomato – bread a bit like cardboard.
Stopped later in smaller town for few minutes – nice biscuits and cakes and lots of nuts. More picturesque costumes – people friendly. Little boy saluted me as I got into bus!
Camped by river as sun going down – lovely orange sky, and pink in east. Herds of sheep and goats.
Iranians came and looked round bus – perhaps looking for drugs. Stood around while we ate.
Cut up melons and hollowed out faces for Guy Fawkes Night. Didn’t have fire.”
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Filed under: Overlanders Tagged: cay, Iran, money changers, Rezaiyeh, sticky cakes, sunset, wild camping
November 3, 2012
WILD CAMPING, WILD SWIMS & WILD ANIMALS – EASTERN TURKEY 1976
Extract from my overland diary from 36 years ago. Can’t believe I was so wimpy as to not join the wild Turkish swimmers …
WEDNESDAY 3RD NOVEMBER, 1976
“Camped by Lake Van – deserted hotel right on shore. Very cold – ice on flysheet again.
Beautiful situation, clear cold morning. Lake and mountains divided by a light mist, brilliant sunshine on Lake. Behind were snow capped mountains.
Turks swimming and hunting near us – very noisy as usual. Geoff [driver] told us as we left that often wolves and bears here in Nov in the area! Lovely view along Lake, climbed higher – 7000 ft up. Above snow line later in day.
Stopped to spend last lire in little town – great curiosity. Booze shope discovered – but I’d spent mine by then! Veiled woman fell in river – couldn’t see where she was going.
Road blocked because of blasting – one blast, then we gathered to take pictures of 2nd go. Made us all move back – general chaos. Little man climbing about on rocks, no one seemed to take much notice. Had to wait after blast for bulldozers to move in; then followed sheep trucks etc over rickety new road.
Last stop in Turkey for cay – after dark, men appeared from nowhere, pressing all around, especially in cay shop. [Geoff ordered back on bus.] On way out, all got touched up, really horrible.
Drove late to get over border because of what happened to other trips on that road. Dossed down in customs hall for night! Had some lovely cherry liqueur! Vicious looking sheep dog – in fact not aggressive. (Can hold own vs wolves).”
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Filed under: Overlanders Tagged: bears, Eastern Turkey, Lake Van, Turkish horsemen, wild camping, wolves
October 28, 2012
SPOOKY BUT TRUE …!
I was recently contacted by a couple who had particularly enjoyed THE HAUNTING OF KULAH because they had recently holidayed on Barra, which was the inspiration for the modern day setting.
In the novel there is a standing stone (an ancient Celtic relic) and also a religious statue of Madonna and Child; both have a special resonance for the heroine Ally Niven.
Me and my standing stone!
I had based these on a standing stone in North Uist
and a famous 25ft Catholic statue on South Uist: Our Lady of the Isles, sculpted by Huw Lorimer and located on the flank of Reval, South Uist which was dedicated in 1958.
But Brian and Lesley sent me photos of a standing stone and a statue set against a craggy cliff – Our Lady, Star of the Sea – on the flank of Heaval, overlooking Castlebay on Barra – which were much more like the haunted edifices of my imaginings!
Were they always there – or have they been conjured up out of the novel …?!
Our Lady Star of the Sea on Barra
Standing Stone on Barra – just like the one in the novel!
Filed under: NEW BOOK: The Haunting of Kulah, The Haunting of Kulah Tagged: Barra, Huw Lorimer, Our Lady Star of the Sea, Scotland, South Uist, standing stone, The Haunting of Kulah
October 21, 2012
SUN COMES OUT FOR VISIT TO VIRGIN MARY’S HOUSE, TURKEY 1976
View from Virgin Mary’s last house
THURSDAY 21ST OCTOBER, 1976 – PART TWO
‘Back down to town; some of us had stuffed peppers, chips and tomatoes (Heidi, me, Adrian, Chris, Hans).
Nice town [Bergama] lots of food stalls and shops. Quite clean. Sun came out. Scenery looked much better in the sun – blue sea and clear outline of sandy hills covered in olive trees.
Stopped at Izmir. Soldier called Hassan attached himself and offered to find the Meaders’ place [parents of school friend who were living there]. Not enough time, so gave up. Met up with Mark, Paul and Julie. Very modern and busy port.
Salcuk from Nightingale Mountain
Next stop was early evening at house of Virgin Mary up on Nightingale Mountain, outside of Salcuk. Really peaceful and serene setting among terraced gardens and lots of trees, view out to sea, sun beginning to go down. Lovely little chapel built on remains of house; sat inside for a while, attendant gave me free guide.’
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Filed under: Bergama, Izmir, Overlanders, Salcuk, Turkey, Virgin Mary's house Tagged: Bergama, Izmir, Salcuk, Turkey, Virgin Mary's house
PERGAMON – TEETERING TEMPLES AND PHANTOM SNAIL PINCHERS, TURKEY 1976
THURSDAY 21ST OCTOBER, 1976 – PART ONE
‘Went back in to Bergama and up hillside to old citadel of Pergamon. Fantastic views of surrounding hills and plains and bird’s eye view of Bergama. Hills very rugged and unfertile; lots of olive trees and sheep wandering around with bells around necks.
Ponies grazing among ruins. Ruins quite extensive (Greek ones – Roman further down towards the town). Remains of aquaduct, old city walls, library (200,000 parchments originally before taken to Alexandra and lost in a fire).
Temple of Athena and very steep theatre dropping down hill – steepest in Turkey because of gradient of hill. Hilarious American Tour – “Gee what a super picture of a fig tree” as they passed the remains of the steepest amphitheatre in Turkey; “does anybody want a bit of marble?” and handed some round. One woman went into ecstasies over a snail and looked suspiciously at us, saying, “You’re not going to take the snail away are you?” I didn’t think we looked particularly like phantom snail pinchers. Perhaps she thought we were combing the old ruins of Turkey for that very reason …’
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Filed under: American tourists, amphitheatre, Bergama, Overlanders, Pergamon, Temple of Athena, Turkey Tagged: American tourists, amphitheatre, Bergama, Pergamon, Temple of Athena, Turkey
ACROSS THE DARDANELLES TO TROY – AND MUDDY CAMPING, TURKEY, 1976
WEDNESDAY 20TH OCTOBER, 1976 – PART TWO
Paul with flowers in beard
‘Back to Eceabat where we got ferry across Dardanelles to Asia. Sat in lounge, waiter came round with cay. Rob trying to write diary again but men pestering him to buy jeans – offered 2000 lire! Paul tried to sell his for 500L.
Next stop was Troy. Went round ruins – about 9 different cities. More impressive than expected – bits of city wall, rampart, theatre, pillars, storage jars etc. Looked out across plain to Dardanelles and Gallipoli (?) in very far distance. Looked around museum, various jars and pots and drinking goblets, as well as powder jars etc. Some still had designs on – owls and little men. No one quite sure which city was one of Homer – maybe 7th city. Big wooden horse has been reconstructed by musuem.
Girls picking cotton in Western Turkey
Continued along coast and inland a bit. Rather boring scenery, mostly flat and muddy; more hilly countryside covered in olive trees. Felt ill.
Stopped at Pergamon – walking across road, Neva was missed by car by about an inch! Bought nuts and raisins. Shirley had her shoes polished; little boy in full command, bashing brush on box with great flair when Shirley was to put other foot up. Nearly missed bus.
Drove few miles out and camped on sandy muddy stretch near water (house was built on previous camping area!) at Plajevleri – bar a few metres away, road on other side of tents. Dogs barking round all the time and village idiot blowing whistle and snooping round tents.’
[image error]http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D341689031&field-keywords=the+vanishing+of+ruth
Filed under: camping, Dardanelles, Overlanders, Pergamon, Plajevleri, Troy, Turkey Tagged: camping, Dardanelles, Pergamon, Plajevleri Troy, Turkey
October 20, 2012
WINDY, DESOLATE MASS GRAVES OF ANZACS AT GALLIPOLI, TURKEY 1976
Lone Pine Memorial to Anzacs, at Gallipoli
WEDNESDAY 20TH OCTOBER, 1976 - Part One
“Very windy again. Grey sky and grey, green sea – dark when first got up.
Detour back to Anzac memorials. Very quiet, cold and grey. Wound up hill past Lone Pine memorial and others – gully of mass graves. From top looked down on beaches of Gallipoli and ridges between them and the bluff.
Ridges and beaches of Gallipoli
Sinister war ships in the bay, just seen through the mist added an uncanny touch. 9 month siege, about 60,000 Allies died and more Turks – many from cholera, hepatitus, dysentry etc. Stopped at Lone Pine – about 900 headstones and many more listed but never found. Very sad place (quite a few Scots’ names).
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D341689031&field-keywords=vanishing+of+ruth
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Filed under: Anzac memorials, Gallipoli, Lone Pine, mass graves, Overlanders, Turkey, war ships Tagged: Anzac memorials, Gallipoli, Lone Pine, mass graves, Turkey, war ships
HOT SOUP & COLD CAMPING BY THE SEA OF MARMARA – OVERLANDERS ON THE ROAD AGAIN, 1976
TUESDAY 19TH OCTOBER, 1976
Young cotton picker in Western Turkey
“Up early and raining. Big clear out of Chinese laundry image! Coffee at bar before left. Boring drive back along road to Greek border.
Became very cold during day. Stopped again at small port, bought hot bread and honey. Eventually turned off down coast and followed Sea of Marmara.
Eventually near Eceabat made camp. Very windy and bitingly cold. Pitched in dark beside a derelict wall (apparently people sometimes live in it!) Very near sea, very rough, could see ships’ lights in the dark.
Had hot soup and stew. Some of us walked (or rather were blown) into Eceabat – 2km – and had beer and cay at a quayside cafe. No room indoors because all watching telly, so sat outside and froze! (Chris, Nikki, me, Pam, Mark, Neva and Diana). Walked back – very cold night.”
[image error]http://www.amazon.com/THE-VANISHING-RUTH-enthralling-ebook/dp/B0041KL6NA/ref=sr_1_13?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1350682569&sr=1-13&keywords=Janet+MacLeod+Trotter
Filed under: camping, Eceabat, overland bus, Overlanders, Sea of Marmara, Turkey Tagged: camping, Eceabat, overland bus, Sea of Marmara, Turkey
October 19, 2012
NIKKI SOLD FOR 20 CAMELS! FROM THE BAZAAR TO CAMP BAR, OVERLANDERS 1976
MONDAY 18TH OCTOBER, 1976
Bosphorus, Istanbul
Part Two:
“Made for a cay shop – (Chris, Nikki, Jan, me and Heidi). Got lost in back streets, seemed to be cloth factories and shops, with streets teaming with cars and men bent double under loads of bails etc. Eventually found tiny cay shop in arcade – produced a few stools and bought cay and Turkish coffee – place seemed to serve all the shops in the area.
Kept buying all the savouries and sweets that were being sold at street corners – me and Jan the worst culprits! Made for the bazaar. Really funny time – blokes haggling for us 4 from Chris! Nikki was offered 20 camels! Quite expensive prices – lots of coats, material, jewellery, belts etc.
Found another cay shop! Then made home in the rush hour with Chris and Nikki. Everyone dashes for the buses, absolute chaos. Eventually crammed in one – a fella called Salami told me where to get off. Then had to waylay a No. 6 mini bus. Everyone rushes into the street and people in mini buses grab them onto the buses. Another bloke guided us on, shouting “Schnell, schnell!”
Went to B.P Camp to see if any mail. Had meal in Camp restaurant – revolting meatballs (probably camp cat!) and cold spaghetti. Tehran turned up. Had to say goodbye – others eventually rescued me!
Went up to B.P Camp again because someone said I had a letter up there. Me and Mark discovered Contiki were there and so stayed and drank with them. Mostly dull, but driver’s good fun – pretended he was barman – quite a laugh when annoyed people wanted drinks!
Back to our busand had a chat in back with Nikki and Chris.”
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D341689031&field-keywords=vanishing+of+ruth
Filed under: B.P Camp, bazaar, buses, cay shop, Contiki Tours, Istanbul, Overlanders, traffic, Turkey Tagged: Contiki Tours, Istanbul, Swagman Overland, traffic, Turkey
