Janet MacLeod Trotter's Blog, page 13

OUT OF DELHI – AND ONTO CAMELS! INDIA 1976

[Swaggies roll up their foamies and set off on the road once more, heading out of sophistocated Delhi and into rural India.  Some take to camel transport ...]

WEDNESDAY 8TH DECEMBER, 1976 – Part One

“Left Delhi after a lot of fuss and milling about on the bus.  Left Fred – he’s going straight to Kathmandu.

Flags out at army barracks – perhaps for Hungarian PM.  Countryside more barren – gullies and scrub.  Then plain again – lots of camels, dusty countryside but with quite a few trees (pig shooting country).

Stopped at village – Shirely got onto a camel – huge amused crowd – all round the bus too, selling bananas.  Saw mongeese at side of the road.

Lunch stop off the road – camels leisurely pulling carts and disappearing down paths lined with tall grasses.  Watched busy paths of ants and ant hill where they were dragging bits of grass and taking grain and coming out with the husk.  Chris put them into a state of disorganisation and crisis by digging a channel across their path (about quarter inch deep!)

Saw 3 bad accidents in the morning alone – all big trucks.”

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DELHI CAMPSITE – no money for the bright lights but happy with corned beef and salad

[Money - or lack of it - was beginning to curb my tourist choices, and reduced me to hanging out at the campsite.  But at 18 I was easily pleased - an ice-cream, a lift on a Harley Davidson and a camp supper of corned beef seemed to be all it took to keep me happy!]

Inscription in Buddhist temple, Delhi

TUESDAY 7TH DECEMBER, 1976 – Part Two

” They [Chris and Nicki] went off to embassy and we [Aussie Jan and me] went round emporiums of different states – nicely done up shops with regional handicrafts.  Got choker from Maharashtra and sandalwood letter opener/pen from Kerala.

Felt really shattered, so hunted down an ice-cream shop (best ice-cream ever – strawberry flavour) then piled into a Harley Davidson to the campsite.

Had a shower, hair wash – felt much better!

Sat in campsite cafe (on raised terrace) drinking coffee and chatting with Jan, Sue, Fred.  Lovely camp supper of salad and corned beef (no money to eat out or go to Son et Lumiere.  Caberet was on!  But too far out of town! sob sob)  There was a circus in town too.

Spent evening at cafe – big reminiscence of Durham, and Sunderland at Wembley with Di (owe her a coffee at House of Andrews!)

Others came back from Son et Lumiere – good music and lighting – and British Empire bashing in last 15 minutes!  Picked up Mike – mad Irishman working in Ceylon (VSO)”

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NEW DELHI – RED FORT AND RED-HOT SCOOTER RICKSHAW RIDE

[It was chill-out time in India's capital city and then a meander through the bazaar area, Chandni Chauk, and a hot-bottom ride into Connaught Circus in central New Delhi.]

TUESDAY 7TH DECEMBER, 1976 – Part One

“Had a lazy half a morning – coffee and actually cleaned my shoes!

Went into Delhi with Jan, Chris and Nicki by foot.  Walked up to Red Fort – I acted as official guide much to annoyance of real one who kept insisting he knew more than I did!  Had a coffee in the arcade.  (Red Ford built in 1600s by Shahjahan – put in prison by his third son who also bumped off his brothers to become Moghul)

Walked up to Chandi Chauk – very busy; amazing characters, people selling flowers of bright orange and yellow.  Women with baskets of mud on heads.  Great amount of drapers – cheap looking garments and loads of bright clothes.  Bazaar looked a bit too dingy.  Got scooter rickshaws to Connaught Circus – me and Jan got into a real heap – there was smoke coming up behind the seat and by me; my seat was red-hot!

Chris and Nicky took us to the Indian coffee-house up a lift – a real grotty cafe, but with waiters dressed in white with green cummerbunds and hats with parrot crest-type top.  Had 6 chips and a coffee!”

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DELIGHTFUL DELHI – Mohguls, monkeys, levitation and a Harley Davidson!

[In a letter home I wrote that 'Delhi's a super place - drove around the new part - lovely broad steets and parkland.  Had a really good guided tour of the Red Fort'.  Little did I know that I was going to see a lot more of Delhi than I bargained for once the bus trip was over - and not as a tourist.  But luckily that 18 year old was oblivious to anything beyond the next amazing marble building or crowded bazaar.]

MONDAY 6TH DECEMBER, 1976

“I cooked porridge!

Took bus into New Delhi for a tour of town.  Really lovely broad streets and parks with big meadows and trees.  Drove up main parade road (crash barriers because used for processions on Republic Day etc)  Viceroy’s palace in front (hazy but impressive) and then past Parliament buildings and up Parliament Street to post office – 6 letters.

Very moving letter from Mum describing Chief’s [Dame Flora] funeral and cuttings showing Dad, Don, Rory, Tom and other familiar faces.  Felt I’d really experienced it.  All of them had carried coffin.  Felt upset – Di cheered me up by letting me talk about it.

Went to Nepalese Embassy for some people to get visas.  Saw round modern Hindu Temple – fascinating, mass of colour, almost garish.  Made me happy and want to laugh all the time.  Many statues of gods and goddesses.  Next door was a Buddhist shrine.  Elephant statues in the garden.

Drove to Connaught Circus and stopped for lunch.  Went and found a milk bar with Heidi and Di – dim lights, posh enterior and expensive prices – so had half a sandwich and a coffee for lunch!  Dodged back among bicyclists and richshaws.

Taken to “Ivory Palace” where we saw men stitching gold and silver thread on black velvet and carving intricate ivory pieces.  Lovely showroom of gems, evening bags, metalwork and ivory chess sets, jewellery, elephants etc – ivory sofa, chairs and screens that took 25 years to make by 2 men.  (This was near big Mosque).

Went to Red Fort (Di, Sally and Fran).  Got a guide who was very interesting about fort – Lahore Gate, “umbrella” bazaar, barracks, gardens, drum house and parade to audience house where Moghul Emperor sat on huge marble throne and listened to petitions etc. (used to be a marble way covered with canvas, lined with people).  Tiles behind throne of attractive birds taken by British but returned by Lord Curzon.  Lots of little chipmunks running about in the gardens.  Lovely marble buildings – delicate archways, inlaid jewels in shape of flowers etc.  Peacock throne base was in one of them – but throne now in Tehran.  Used to be a silver ceiling, channel of running water and big fountain in shape of lotus leaf.

Balcony looking over parks where Emperor used to say good morning to people.  Looked over this side of wall and saw a boy beating time while monkeys danced and jumped – threw him some “baksheesh”.  Then two boys doing levitation trick – one beating while other rises up under big white sheet.

Saw women’s winter and summer baths and a private mosque of the family’s.  On the way back were taken into a jewellers and I bought a little jade elephant (student’s price!).  Got a Harley Davidson back to campsite (motor bike had big carriage behind and above – very open).

Went shopping for dinner with Chris, Nicki and Di.  Couldn’t find any veg or rice (dark by now).  Man kept trying to sell us sandalwood necklaces in French!  Tried to get through to him and friends that wanted vegetables – they thought we wanted sandalwood tables!  Finally got through to him, so he took us off down dark narrow lanes, crowded out with kids and people and animals eating in the road.  Got to veg shop (men ironing in the back and veg in the front!)

Cooked for 20 – only about 13 around.”

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EMERALD PUNJAB – palms, crocodiles, milk bars, bright green parrots!

[Now back in the Punjab after Kashmir, I was excited by everything I saw and aware that my grandfather Bob Gorrie could have been responsible for some of the trees planted 50 years previously.  One of his areas of expertise was the problem of soil erosion.  Trees were crucial in stopping this erosion from hillsides and from silting up fields and river courses.

His photo shows where 'a big dam of earth and sand has been built by 14 villages each doing their share of the digging and carrying.  It is to keep a river in its proper place and stop it cutting away villages and fields.  It has since been planted up with a lot of trees which I had to arrange for.']

SUNDAY 5TH DECEMBER, 1976

“Geoff on the rampage because us cooks had slept in!  Lovely sunrise and ball of fire through the trees.  Locals watching but at a discrete distance.  Puffer train went by.

Interesting day’s drive – oxen pulling ploughs in greeny-brown fields – some green quite emerald in colour.  Palm-like trees among the others.  Big hay stacks and smaller cone-like grey ones.  Bright green parrots flew across road.  Plenty of horn blowing at slow oxen and carts and public buses.  Stopped to shop in village.  Medicine man sitting with bottles and baby crocodiles!

Next stop at a milk bar by a very pleasant garden – lawn and lots of flowers, 2 coloured umbrellas – part of a new dairy complex (project mostly in Punjab and nearby state).  Really nice cold milk drink – supposedly pineapple but tasted like the last one which was chocolate!

Stopped for lunch at cay shop – great little fellow collecting cups – big smiles, great concentration for job!  Builders nearby – wooden rough logs as scaffolding.  Very dark skinned workers.  Bill got left behind – Shirley only realised quarter of an hour after we left!  She suddenly shrieked “Where’s Willy?”!  Bill drove up in a truck a few minutes later!

Interesting countryside – little mud huts.  Great crowd by the road and going along parallel railway – great collection of trucks by side of the road – probably a local village fair – people streaming in on the area.

Reached Delhi after dark – through old city – great bright lights everywhere – big circus and old bazaar lit up.  Cooked on compound of campsite in middle of town.  Great meal!”

[My cooking team was Chrispin, Nicky and myself]

India Gate, New Delhi

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CRICKET AND TONGA RACES IN LAHORE, PAKISTAN, 1976

[I recorded in a letter home that: 'It was like coming home again to be in Pakistan after Afghanistan - could read the signs again; people are really friendly and we could have afternoon tea in comfortable seats set aside for ladies!  What's more, we were dropped to do our site seeing by a cricket match.  It was great to sit on the grass in the sun watching cricket at the end of November!'

Lahore was where my grandfather, Robert Gorrie, went to work for the Indian Forestry Service in 1922, covering the Punjab and North West Frontier Province.  My grandmother, Sydney Easterbrook took the long sea voyage out there to join him - they were married in the cathedral at Lahore in 1923.  Yet it was only on reaching Delhi that I received a letter from Granny Sydney telling me this.  I record that: 'I wish I'd realised that she was married in Lahore Cathedral when I was there, then I could have gone and paid my respects.'

Much of the time my grandparents (mother and uncles) travelled and lived in the mountains - Simla and Dehra Dhun - but when based in Lahore they enjoyed a rich cultural life and friends across the racial divide of the colonial regime. In 1976 there were still traces of this pre-Partition world - in buildings and lingering attitudes of some tourists - but Lahore has been used to absorbing and outlasting waves of invaders.  The result was a fantastic mix of architecture, tranquil gardens and seething street life.

SATURDAY 27TH NOVEMBER, 1976

"A whole nomadic village watched us eat breakfast!  Hashish smokers.

Reached Lahore and drove up Mall.  After short stop, bus dropped us near mosque by cricket match!  Watched that in sun for a bit - really like an english summer - we attracted more crowds than cricketers.  Saw several wickets fall - great excitement on field; very little defensive batting!  (Probably schoolboys.  Apparently the next day Pakistan were playing an International Eleven!)

Went round second biggest mosque in world (founded in 1000s but mostly built in 17th century - Badshahi Mosque) - really lovely gardens on way in with stone summer house in middle and pools on either side.  Took off shoes at entrance - 2 typically "Anglo-Indian" types (Ronny and Adela - my reference to characters from EM Forster's Passage to India) refused to give in their shoes and shouted at the attendent who eventually let them in - all very embarrassing.

Huge red sandstone courtyard with white dazzling walls.  Padded across this to mosque proper.  Huge red minarets and big domes - lovely cool marble floors, carpets under central dome, birds nesting above somewhere.  Me and Sally sat on steps - made friends with some women and kids (one oldish woman was breast-feeding a young kid).  Only spoke Urdu - wanted pictures taken - one woman had bright red hair and red stained fingers.  All had jewels in their noses and cheap jewellery; very colourful though grubby, tatty nail varnish.  Sally promised to send photo to them.  Then several people wanted theirs taken too!

Rushed up a minaret - good view over busy streets of Lahore and over fort too.  Felt weak and dizzy when got down - shows how unfit I am!  Then me, Jan, Rob, Sally and Fran made our way to fort.  Huge big round towers and battlements.  Went and sat under tree in pleasant garden - talked with english couple that Rob had met in Esfahan; they'd been given knives at an ammunition factory in Khyber Pass.  Lovely to sit in pleasant green surroundings - lovely flowers and trees.  Walked around central building - stood on balcony built by Akbar the Great!  (17th century, obviously beautiful pink tiles at one point.  On outside wall of fort were remains of tiles with elephants on).  View over lovely pool - fountains out of action.  Jan and I not allowed in one part - think it was a mosque.  Saw a bullock pulling a lawnmower!  Wide stairs to the ramparts for elephants and bullet holes in the wall.

Made for old bazaar - had drink under some trees, talked with a couple of travellers - one had started out with his wife - didn't know where she was now.  Me and Fran were fired on by a bird from above!  Went into bazaar - Frances had a climb on a scabby camel - nearly threw her off; kicks and howls of protest from camel!  Attracted huge crowd.  Bazaar was incredible place - stunk of dung and hash.  Narrow streets crammed with colourfully dressed people, scooter rickshaws and tongas milling about almost running you down; no such thing as right of way!  Streams of bullocks pushing past - one in a stall spat at us!  Background rhythm of drums (as well as contant blare of horns) - several small shops making drums (men stoned out of minds with hash).  Various stalls selling fried foods and sugar cane and pomegranate juice.  Rob bought a big pipe.

We eventually got out by hiring a tonga - 5 of us and driver.  Skinny horse.  Incredible journey through bazaar fighting past other tongas.  Millions of figures - skinny holy man with single piece of orange material wound round him and gold dangly earring from one ear; women in tongas completely veiled in small-pleated material.

It was a real fight to get out - at traffic lights all the tongas surge from either side like a chariot race at the poor unsuspecting police, with us stuck in the middle!  (Dentist shops had huge diagrams of heads and details of mouth on boards outside).  After taking pictures of us on tonga, another tonga driver appeared and posed with us!  After GPO we went to expensive place on the Mall and had tea and patties and cakes!

Drove out several miles and camped in suburb called Gulberg, by hotel (use its washing facilities).  Di and I wandered round square looking for boiled eggs.  Ended up at grotty cafe and had cold chips and mangled eggs.  Later in evening got a scooter rickshaw into Lahore with Di and Rob and Maree - mad driver.

In cinema [The Regal], blokes came round with trays of sweets, ice-cream, drinks, crisps and cups of tea!  Hilarious trailers of films coming – “Inframan” and “Submersion of Japan” – ie will Japan follow Atlantis and what will the administrators do?!  Main film was “Man About the House” – not a good film but it was great to see a familiar series and relax to a film for once.

When we came out loads of scooter rickshaws were waiting to take people back.  Got an even madder driver – very draughty because doors were just on a small spring.  (Mark and Pam made rude noises at another rickshaw thinking it was us.  Rickshaw stopped and angry men got out – nearly got lynched!)  Contikee group were at flicks – one very nervous girl (they’d had accident and bus had rolled – two injured; drivers ok).”

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DRIPPING MEAT DOWN THE KHYBER PASS, 1976

FRIDAY 26TH NOVEMBER, 1976

“Woke to find selves sleeping on a thoroughfare!  People almost walking over us – very curious standers-by watched us – difficult when came to dressing!  Long wait while Afghans searched bus, roof, boot – opened some cases – found bottle of whisky in each one!

On Pakistani side were hassled by money changers.  Very dirty border village; big wicker benches (like hammocks) outside cay shops.  Neva and me had dry cake thing – one of those eating days.

Exciting drive through Khyber Pass – not officially allowed to take photos, so had to balance at windows without truck behind seeing us – probably only get a blur!  Very barren, rocky mountainsides with dusty houses perched on slopes and in valley.  Winding road, very narrow pass at one point; quite easily be ambush or battleground areas!  Lots of pack ponies around, looked after by fierce little boys.

Stopped at village in middle of pass (highest point of pass – Landi Kotal).  Very dirty with rather tall buildings – looked unusual.  Fascinating bazaar set down almost under cover and very narrow.  Great hunks of dripping meat, knives sellers, deep open drains, dead rat, hashish peddlars, men with guns slung over their shoulders – Pathan country!  (Disappointed that haven’t seen very many swaggering Pathans!)

Stopped at Peshawar at a fruit and veg check point.  Man came on bus and slit our fruit from Afghanistan – chucked some away.

Countryside soon levelled out – real surprise and relief to see green trees and semi-green fields again – some of the scenery was really quite english.  Fascinating market towns, throbbing with life and colours again.  Drove late after stop for supper where locals almost fell in the stew they came so close.  (Crossed Indus River by Attock Fort).”

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SLEEPING UNDER AFGHAN STARS – AND LIVER SALTS, 1976

Afghan fat-bottomed sheep at Bamiyan

[For mountain roads, they don't come much more spectacular than the Kabul Gorge with its death-defying drops and smashed cars left as warnings to drivers.  Geoff our laconic driver took it all with his usual deadpan calm demeanour and delivered us safely to the mild plains below - so mild that we slept out under the stars.  Even a bloated stomach didn't prevent me enjoying the beautiful, noisy Afghan night.]

THURSDAY 25TH NOVEMBER, 1976

“Up 7.30.  Packed to noises of front street below window – music blaring away.  Got Neva to help me chose another padded jacket from our little friend [for my Mum]  Then had toast and coffee.

Bus cleaned – nearly choked with dust!

Soon left plain and into Kabul Gorge!  Really spectacular cliffs and drops, tunnels and winding roads.  Dizzy feeling looking up at massive rocks.  Wreck of a van left at one corner as a cautionary tale.

After gorge went along by blue green rivers and pale mountains.  Down to valleys, becoming more cultivated.

Jalalabad surrounded by trees and irrigated fields.  Couldn’t get through border before sunset so camped on Afghanistan side.  Didn’t bother putting up tent because so mild (and ground of the peg bending type!)

Have got real gut ache – had some of Geoff’s liver salts – ugh.  Stomach swollen, can’t do up trousers!

Great lying out under starry sky – went to sleep listening to Supertramp.  Woke in night to hear dogs barking, donkey braying, someone singing in wailing voice and a guard shouting his head off (probably for lack of something better to do) and Janice snoring!”

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BUDDAHS IN BAMIYAN – CAT STEVENS & CAKE IN KABUL, 1976

[FOOD!  On the road, camping wild, we cooked up an awful lot of vegetable soup and stew - cabbage featured heavily and seemed to grow bigger the further east we went.  So eating locally was usually a treat - and the sweet pastries and puddings from Paris to Kathmandu were reason enough to follow the hippy trail.  I don't think I've tasted such good yoghurt as in Bamiyan - and the cake in Kabul  - I couldn't resist even when feeling sick.  Read below for a tasty idea!]

WEDNESDAY 24TH NOVEMBER, 1976

“Woke to the sound of one fella stoking the boiler and the pleasant sweet smell of woodsmoke.  People began to stir and order tea.  Had a “bolled” egg for breakfast!  Lazed around foa a while because so warm.

Then went out for a walk with Jan and Sue.

Really beautiful clear crisp morning.  Walked up by cliffs – followed solemnly by 3 sheep with huge swinging backsides.  Someone hammering in village caused an echo which sounded as if someone was working inside the cliff – really weird.
Gorgeous sun spilling over snowy mountains – a line of horses strapped to open carts, eating out of bags.





Met women and kids asking for matches – one carrying little baby wrapped in tight cloth – eyes clogged with black dust.

Went back to hotel and had a yoghurt with nuts and raisins!  Left mid morning, with extra passengers for Kabul.  Back down same road – lovely views again.  Hit a wall trying to avoid hole at side of road!  Saw line of goats coming down almost sheer cliff side.

Stopped for lunch late on, at the village on hill again – had cay at side of tiny square.  People off a bus at side of road got out and prayed.

Back to Mustafa hotel for welcome shower after dusty ride – still coughing from dust.  Went with Diane and Marie to Sigis Restaurant – nice setting around an open courtyard where a huge game of chess under floodlight was set up.  Sat on floor at tiny tables listening to Cat Stevens and Deep Purple.  Nearly deserted – were eventually only ones left – turned off heater too.  Had rather cold omlette.

Then went to Istanbul Restaurant for sweet.  Had gorgeous big chunk of cake (sponge with chocolate type topping with raisins and grapefruit segments)  Two musicians playing away with waiter contorting his hands!

Felt sick (did before meal).

Back to hotel – listened to Dylan in dining room before went to bed (cup of coffee).”

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INTO THE IRANIAN DESERT – SWIMMING IN THE DESERT! 1976

THURSDAY 11TH NOVEMEBER, 1976

“In the daylight we could see quite dramatic cliffs behind us and a little village close to tents.  The usual crowd of spectators gathered (some on bicycles) to watch the morning ritual.

First stop was at a fabulous swimming pool, made from a fresh spring – beautifully blue and clear with trees round it.  Six of us decided to brave the cold water – me, Nikki, Chris, Mark, Rob and Diane.  Cold at first, but stayed in quite a bit because so refreshing.  Then sat around in the sun.  Talked about Rose Street [in Edinburgh, famous for its pubs]  Diane had worked for 6 months at the Tankard Lounge (Paddie’s Bar).

Next stop was in a little town – kids swarmed around bus – could hardly get away.  Mary [a very independent New Zealander] got left behind!  Apparently there’s always hassle there.  Had sandwiches (butties) outside town.

Saw Qanats

-outer signs of underground irrigation systems -

mounds of earth with deep shaft in the middle.

[Iranians have been digging these ingenious water tunnels for over 2000 years and this traditional method of water supply is still very important in these desert regions.  They also feature in my novel  THE VANISHING OF RUTH]

Scenery becoming more and more barren and dry.  Tried to shop in Neyriz but couldn’t even find any bread – must close down for siesta time.

Climbed up terrible mountain road, bit like Suardal [family home on Isle of Skye - see my memoir BEATLES & CHIEFS for tales of a 60s childhood] track in places  (except the hairpin bend variety!)

Great view over a lake; mountains spectacular too – sheer rock faces and jagged peaks.  On other side, road riddled with channels and some under pools of water.  Got stuck in one channel!  Back of bus wedged into bank – all got out and pushed.

Came across group of people sitting by side of the road – women swathed in black – obviously a bus stop!

Camped on rocky ground again – inside of tent like a series of mole hills – so many bushes under tent!”

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Filed under: Overlanders Tagged: Iran, Iranian desert, Neyriz, Qanats, swimming, wild camping