Janet MacLeod Trotter's Blog, page 14

ICY HAIRPIN BENDS UP TO BAMIYAN AND THE BUDDHAS, 1976

[The trip up to Bamiyan was one of the most memorable of the whole journey.  We glimpsed Afghan village life among stunning mountain gorges as we climbed up 11,000 ft to the valley of the giant Buddhas.  Having stood for thousands of years, they are now gone - destroyed by a puritanical Taliban regime in retreat.  But we saw them in more tranquil days in the dazzling winter sun.  It made a lasting impression.  My novel THE VANISHING OF RUTH begins in Bamiyan when two passengers go missing from a bus trip ...]

TUESDAY 23RD NOVEMBER, 1976

“Up early – left packs at hotel and left for Bamian.  Wearing all our winter clothes!  Left tarmac road fairly soon and too to dirt road – incredibly dusty.  Wound way along valleys by mountain sides – really beautiful striking scenery, with dark green fast flowing rivers, delicate skeleton trees, some still golden. 

Stopped for breakfast at little village – went up to cay shop – small pot each (about 4 glasses worth) for about 8p.  Locals sitting about on the raised platforms covered with carpets – big stove with boiler above in the middle.

Stopped at another village further up valley and walked through it; busy workshops – meat, bread, drapers etc.  Food mostly big mounds of grain and nuts.  Me and Jan took “ethnic shot” of men weighing something on mansize scales!

Walked up hill beyond village – good view back down of mud type houses set on mountainside.

Traffic jam further on!  Small bridge over river had collapsed slightly under weight of a big truck.  Villagers all gathered round watching truck being hauled upright again – very precarious position.  (Later we heard that the truck had gone right over into river the day before and had been there until we arrived!)  Had a lunch stop while we waited – nice grass bank by bus with houses above – women sitting around on small platform by house;

lots of inquisitive kids sat with us and demanded their picture – “Mister! Mister!” to the girls as well.  Lots of dead sheep piled up at side of river.  Finally big cheer and truck pulled out of the way.

Road began to climb after that to the Shiba Pass – hairpin bends, very dusty tracks.  One hair-raising moment when bus couldn’t make hairpin bend because slipped on ice!  All piled out and pushed because bus going nearer the edge all the time!  Not too bad after that.

Passed Red Fort in the evening sunlight (sacked by Ghengis Khan), some of mountains so brown and creased, looked like huge sand dunes.  Reached Bamian late afternoon.

Had wander up village as it closed up – little lamps outside each shop, shimmering through the dust.  People here had marked Mongol features.  To one side were the big cliffs with the big and little buddhas (175ft and 115ft) and the caves of the buddhists, and to the other were trees and snow capped mountains.  Really lovely clear still atmosphere.

That night we all piled into one of the “hotels” – really a cay house – and sat around on carpets with shoes off, with a stove in the middle of the room that kept the room really warm.  Various other Western people in too – off the local bus.  We all ate in there – went through gallons of lovely yoghurt – some with raisins, honey or apple.  (Had nice Kurie Kebab too).  Drank lots of cay.

We spread out foamies on the carpets and all slept in the room – boiled because of the stove!  (Outside freezing – Heidi’s contact lense liquid froze!)  Some people got bed bugs!  All very friendly at the hotel.  Some classic signs: “Please dont smoke hashish in this room” and “To the very good toilet.”

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Filed under: Overlanders

HAGGLING IN KABUL AND INTO A STUDENT HOME, 1976

[Today's entry on haggling in Kabul's shops conjured up the Life of Brian episode where the prospective buyer just didn't get the hang of it!  I ended up with leather soled socks that reeked of animal till their dying day.  Our meal with the students that evening was one of those golden moments on the trail where you stumble into the local life because of the friendship of strangers]

MONDAY 22ND NOVEMBER, 1976

“Felt better!  Had hot shower, heated from old boiler.  Jan, Pam and I dashed around looking for open bank.  Got money eventually (tried apple pie – not very good).

Went jumper hunting – instead bargained for thick leather soled socks from barrow in the street (didn’t really want them but boy was so aggressive I was determined to knock the price down!)  Then helped Jan knock down price of carpet saddle bag from 600 afghans to 340.  Still felt we’d been ripped off because they seemed so pleased and sat us down, gave us cay, chips and sweets!  Somehow I don’t think we’ve got the haggling touch.

Went back to buss and met Fred – went to hotel for coffee and lunch.  Neva bought 2 nice quilted jackets, so dragged her out to help me buy one.  Went to shop in Chicken Street – Neva had had an argument in there already with stroppy little boy – tried to buy one but he wouldn’t bring down price.  Then he got other boy in different shop to refuse us entry too!  Really sick of this haggling lark! – some of them don’t seem to want to even sell their stuff.  Went to arcade by hotel and got one there!

Paul, Julie and Neva had met 2 Iranian students the night before who had arranged to meet them next evening.  They asked for another girl and so Julie asked me.  They took us in this taxi, quite far out, to a suburb of Russian built flats, where one of them shared a flat with a medical student.  Sat us down in small bedroom with carpets on floor and fed us grapes and pistachio nuts and cay while they cooked an Iranian meal for us.  Both very lively.  Third one came in later.

Hassan taught us this card game.  The meal was lovely – kebab meat (delicious) with chips, cauliflower and raw onion (medic said that it was an anticeptic to prevent bad stomach) and beautifully made rice – they burn top with oil.  More cay.  They were very amusing practising their english with us – medic was the translator.  Hassan positioned Paul so he could see out of the window at Afghan girls in opposite flats.  Others teased Hassan that all he did was watch girls – he’s in love with the medic’s sister!

They walked with us until we got taxi (driver was wrapped like a monk – blanket over head – Hassan said it was a woman driver!)  Drove like a maniac – passed a crashed taxi and truck!

Had sticky cake because Neva was fed up with their comments about being fat – so made her feel like eating more!  Coffee in hotel then went to bed.

(Graveyards in Afghanistan – rough stones, many with big poles over them with coloured flags at top – purple ones supposed to denote violent death – lots of them)”

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HOMESICK IN KABUL, AFGHANISTAN, 1976

[A queasy stomach and a letter from home telling me that my chief, Dame Flora MacLeod of MacLeod had just died, combined to make me feel blue and missing home.  I had visited my nonagenarian chief in Scotland before leaving; she had lived in India as a young woman and was excited about my trip.  You can read more about her and my childhood trips to the Isle of Skye in BEATLES & CHIEFS]

SUNDAY 21ST NOVEMBER, 1976

“Headed for Kabul – felt really sick.  Stopped at small village – wandered up wide main street, hailed by breadmakers, so went in and saw bread being made in dark boiling room. Several of them making it; slapped loaves onto side of oven (set in the floor) and picked off before they fell into cinders.  Gave us some to taste, asked for photos as usual.

Reached Kabul late afternoon – low lying houses up side of river, with houses up side of hills either side of river.  Fairly grubby tatty town – more Western dress than in previous places.  Drove past prison – terrible looking hole (people die of exposure, dissentry etc. – where drug pushers end up).

Our hotel (Mustafa) was near Chicken Street – tourist bazaar area.  Settled into hotel (3 letters).  Went out in evening to wander round.  Freezing cold.  Went into fur shop with Heidi and Di – had great time drooling over coats, hats etc – given cay and cake (but I felt too sick to have any).

Went into clothes shop further up – very friendly.  (Clothes etc looked nicer at night, shabbier in daylight).

6 of us went to steak house – very cheap, lots of bus tours etc use it.  Couldn’t touch any of food.  Went back to hotel early – electricity off, so room dark and freezing.  Sally and Fran slept on floor of our room.

Felt homesick and unwell.”

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Filed under: Overlanders

Retro look at the world – photos from India: 1920s Himalayas to 1970s overland travel!

In 1923 my granny left Edinburgh and went out to India to marry my grandfather in Lahore (now in Pakistan). They spent the 20s and 30s living and working in the Punjab and foothills of the Himalayas – Bob Gorrie was a forester.

Over 50 years later, I followed in their footsteps by going out east on an overland bus …

Retronaut – 1970′s Overlanders

Anyone interested in the pictorial history of these times, should take a look at an interesting site called Retronaut, which provides time-capsules of ordinary people’s experiences through old photos and film.

My two capsules are on there, and there are dozens more – a treasure trove for the writer or researcher!

Retronaut – 1920′s India

Filed under: Overlanders, Researching The Stories Tagged: Christmas in Kathmandu, Himalayas, India, overland bus, overland travel, Punjab, Retronaut

VELVET DRESSES AND HASHISH IN QUETTA, PAKISTAN, 1976

[We stayed an extra day in Quetta, the capital of Balochistan - Pakistan's biggest province.  In a letter home, written in Quetta though not posted until Rawalpindi a week later, I give it the thumbs up. "We reached Quetta yesterday - fantastic place - funny mixture of Eastern and old-fashioned British ..." 

I remember feeling that the town was strangely familiar - after the kebabs and flat breads and Persian script of Iran, Quetta had omlettes and milky tea and English spoken in the shops and cafes.  After the desert dust, it buzzed with life and colour and commerce and noise.  I had a curious sense of homecoming.  This was on the fringe of the old British India where my grandparents had lived and worked - my grandfather was employed by the Indian Forestry Service - and where my mother had spent her childhood.  I was drawing nearer to all that.  And shopping for hippy gear in the bazaars - that was my kind of shopping!]

FRIDAY 19TH NOVEMBER, 1976

” Lie in !!!  (10 o’clock).  Had leisurely breakfast at Metropole after taking 1 and half hours to get up.  Lovely omlette and chips.  Had mad time in clothes shop looking at embroidered waistcoats and tops – in one shop about 6 of us had half the stock out to try on – turned shop upside down – I bought a gold velvet dress!

Saw a lot of men praying in lines outside mosque in bazaar, between 12 and 1.  Lot of stalls close down then.

Wandered through cloth market.

Tonight went to Liberty Cafe for meal (I only had tea and pud) Others had curry.

The Pakistanis from last night came in again – apologised for any offence.  Tried to get involved again but we left (Dr gave Sally prescription for voice though).  Waiter rushed out after us, very flustered, trying to tell us that they were bad men!

Hurried home past armed guards!

Adrian had tried to get some hash – had nearly asked 2 men who turned out to be plain clothes policemen!  When he finally got some, no one was interested in smoking it!”

[Quetta features in my mystery novel of the hippy trail, OVERLANDERS - it plays a pivotal role]

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Filed under: Overlanders

1976 – PERSEPOLIS AND SHIRAZ, IRAN – AND CAMPING ON CONCRETE!

WEDNESDAY 10TH NOVEMBER, 1976

“ Quite a crowd of spectators when we got up, including girls.  Scenery of dusty plains and impressive cliff faces.

Stopped and looked at Tomb of Cyrus the Great at Pasagadae … saw Tombs set in cliff face of Ataxerxes, Xerxes and Darius the Great … on to Persepolis …

Spent half an hour at beginning doing nothing while Rob tried to mend the cine camera [this was a bulky, heavy contraption loaned to me for the trip.  It never did work properly ...!]

Magnificent ruins … amusing two headed beasts … fantastic view over Persepolis and tent village and striped marquee in trees

[the tent city was the Shah's obscenely extravagant celebrations in the desert in 1971 to mark 2500th anniversary of Persian monarchy where food was flown in from Maxims in Paris and VIPs - 60 monarchs and heads of state - were put up in tents with marble bathrooms.  It was probably the pivotal event that led to the regime's downfall]

I tried to get in to see the Shah’s tent but gate was closed and guard spoke no english …

A family squatting nearby – photographed funny little figure

Got to SHIRAZ that afternoon – began to rain a little … tomb of famous 14th century poet (Hafez) Had a look round mosque with Heidi and Di – lovely pink flowers and designs on tiles, as well as blue and yellow.  Courtyard rather overgrown, uneven and some flagstones were up. Lovely twisted columns supporting ‘Winter’ courtyard (covered over) with narrow tank in middle.  Some men were washing at little taps along side of tank and others were sitting chatting on mats under some scaffolding …

Museum – small pentagonal building in nice garden with trees and walks, but all dusty and broken show cases all that left (except some new telephone receivers!) … walked down bazaar – strong smell of spices, lots of carpets and drapers.  Had delicious banana milkshake – 2 whole bananas, really creamy.  Heidi had chilled pomegranate juice.

Snacks to buy in Iran are – mast (yoghurt), dates, great selection of nuts, lovely ‘gaz’ (nougat), cheese (goat’s) kebabs in large slabs of flat bread, sometimes with tomatoes and daffodil leaves (or look like!), fruit is oranges, bananas or apples and a strange thing that looks like a peach but tastes acidic and leaves mouth dry!  Also dried figs.

Drove on and free camped by a salt lake on concrete (or at least it felt like it trying to get pegs in – used stones for pegs in the end!)”

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Filed under: Overlanders Tagged: Cyrus the Great, Darius the Great, Hafez, Pasagadae, Persepolis, Shiraz

DUSTY ROAD TO PERSEPOLIS & SHOPPING AFTER DARK – Iran, 1976

TUESDAY 9TH NOVEMBER, 1976

“After a cold shower and sweeping out of dusty bus, went into Esfahan for couple of hours.  Went to bank in Bazaar again – no cay this time!  Wandered round a bit.  Took Jan up to little workshop of printers again and took photo – think they thought we were mad.

Went and had banana milkshake in square again.  Walked down side street and bought biscuits and yoghurt.  Back to milk stall where lots had gathered and sat till bus came.

Scenery – plains with small scrub and mountains in background; rather like cowboy country.  Stopped at cay shop along wayside

- little boy demanded his photo be taken.

Lovely noise of goats bells as huge herd of black goats made their way along cliff path behind the cay shop.

Stopped for shopping after dark and were shown around by an Iranian on a bicycle.

Drove on quite late and camped by a bridge.”

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Filed under: Overlanders Tagged: bazaar, dusty road, Esfahan, Iran, milkshakes, wild camping

Secret rooftop view, 16th century printing blocks and banana milkshakes – MORE OF ESFAHAN, IRAN, 1976

MONDAY 8TH NOVEMBER, 1976

“Went into Esfahan with Sally, Fran, Heidi and Di.  Stood in road trying to waylay taxi – eventually piled into one with a police officer – got to Maiden Shah.  Bought Xmas card [still have it somewhere]

Went round Lady Mosque – blue tiled frontage like Shah Mosque, but inside was enclosed.  Beautiful too (though not the charm of Shah Mosque).

Then Sally, Fran and me headed for bazaar – lovely stalls of printed cloth, metalwork, jewels, inlaid boxes, ivory miniatures and silver boxes.  Standing at one stall, a nice young Iranian came up to us and asked if we’d like to see some printing; so he led us out under an archway into a square and up some uneven steps to a little workshop where 3 blokes were sitting on the floor with bales spread in front of them.  They were using 400 year old wooden printing blocks, placing them on cloth very accurately, and bashed them down with bits of leather strapped to their wrists.

Bought lots of things in bazaar – two silver plated pill boxes with little pictures on, enamel earrings, enamel cigarette holder, mirror with shell picture on , two pieces of printed cloth.  Wandered round local part of bazaar – cloth stalls etc – one stall selling rough wooden trunks and tuck boxes covered in furry material in bright red and secured with sticky tape with pepsi cola written on – amazing sight!

Found entrance to  Islamic University – looked in through archway to gardens beyond – priests in long robes and turbans wandering in and out; not allowed in but took photo.

Eventually got out of bazaar (much nicer than Istanbul, nicer things and less hassleing).  Outside bazaar saw a real Biblical figure of old man with white beard, turban and flowing robe on a white horse riding into the bazaar – groped for camera but too late!

Went and bought pickles and a kebab and tomato in huge flap of bread and ate it on lawn of the Maiden – met up with Heidi, Di and Pam (big).  Little boys gathered and bicyclists stopped to watch us struggle with massive sandwiches.  Started throwing stones.  Jan turned up.  All went for a cold banana milkshake and ice-cream!

Di, Heidi, Pam, Fran and me having kebabs on Maiden Shah

Jan went to Lady’s Mosque (Sheikh Lotfollah) while I headed for toilet of Shah Mosque.  Man directed me there and then asked if I’d like to see upstairs.  All very secretive – we lurked around post until no one there then he unbolted a little wooden door and went up dark stairs to the roof, then up further stairs to bottom of minarets – refused offer of going up further.  Great views over town and mosque.  He said not to tell because we weren’t supposed to go up!

Met up with Jan – wandered down shops of square – bought salt and pepper holders on little silver-plated tray and little enamel cufflinks.  Not a rial left!  Met Chris and Nikki - gave up waiting for bus so hailed a taxi.  Dropped us in little back street – couldn’t quite remember where campsite was so wandered a bit; lots of veiled women.

That evening went in again with Jan, Di, Heidi, Fran and Chris; all piled into taxi to Maiden Shah.  Others wanting a taxi stopped one and car went into the back of it – stood there arguing, oblivious to passengers!  Maiden Shah really beautiful at night – lamps all round square and domes of mosques floodlit and reflected in middle pool.  Square very quiet and deserted.  Walked up to Shah Mosque and saw illuminated front.  Then made our way to the main street and walked about – various workshops still in action and a few shops too, but most of town seemed to be dead.

Passed Shah Abbas Hotel – incredibly posh reception rooms and entrance – outside styled in arches almost like a mosque.  (Others who went there were locked in for 2 hours refusing to pay extra for drinks!  Police in etc).

Taxi back was hair-raising; bloke rushed through red lights avoiding various vehicles; then weaved his way, at the rate of knots, in and out of different lines of traffic!  Bond style!  We kept telling him we’d get off at certain spots but he kept on till the turning to the campsite!”

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Filed under: Overlanders Tagged: bazaar, campsite, Esfahan, hair-raising taxi, Iran, kebabs, Maiden Shah, milkshakes, minaret, printers, Shah Abbas Hotel, Shah Mosque

THE BEST MOSQUE & THE BIGGEST CAKE SHOP I’D EVER SEEN – REACHING ESFAHAN, IRAN, 1976

SUN 7TH NOVEMBER, 1976

“Everyone feeling smelly and filthy (dust rises up through the floor from the roads – less in Iran – E. Turkey worst).

Got into Esfahan about 10.30.  Drove up main boulevard – very wide street with rows of trees and paving down the centre with seats.  Dropped in Shah Square outside Shah Mosque [now called Imam Square and Mosque].

Really incredibly beautiful Mosque – covered in tiny, intricate blue tiles both outside and in.  Passed through huge wooden doors, plated in silver with gold trimmings; passed under cool archways, again decorated in blue tiles.  Main courtyard was huge and magnificent – arches and minarets and huge dome; some very delicate smaller arches in one corner (ten of them) and all were reflected in a rectangular pool, so 20 could be seen at once.  Really warm in sun and peaceful inspite of a few tourists.  Various little men squating under columns – one washing himself by the pool.

Two little courtyards off from main one, either side of dome.  One was fabulous.  Rectangular in shape, enclosed with wide arches causing shaded raised pavements all round.  Up the middle were trees and lovely white and purple flowers and at the centre was a little pool with goldfish.  (Tiles here were blue but largely yellow too).  Then there was the area under cover of the huge dome.  At the centre the echo bounced back at you.  Jan and I stood stamping on the stone floor.  2 Iranians asked us to pose with them!

Then me, Jan and Rob made for main street and post office.  Went down arcade with fantastic shops with material prints, miniatures, jewellery, silverware etc.  Asked way from lad who gave us dry figs and pointed us in right direction.  Looked for place to eat through arch, down steps to small courtyard with store houses and restaurant.  Ordered chicken and rice; served up with chunks of raw onion and flat bread (loads of it) and yoghurt, glasses of water and loads of ice.  Sprinkled kind of nutmeg (sweet) on rice – delicious.  Really filling meal for 90 rials (less than 90p).

Staggered across street into sticky cake shop!  Biggest we’d seen – rushed from huge cakes to date biscuits wondering what to buy!  Bought 3 different types – cocoanut cake, chocolate covered bun and date biscuits.  Felt too full.  Rob stopped on way back to square to have shoe mended – Jan and I escaped man wanting us to buy his sticky cakes (!) then a carpetseller who wanted us to drink his cay!

Met up with others coming out of bazaar.

Had a fresh banana milkshake at stall in square – saw it being made.

Then me, Julie and Paul wandered up street, beckoned into miniature shop by artist.  He did little drawings on his name card and wrote our names in Farsi.  Showed us lots of photos of girls who’d come into his shop and were now all his girlfriends!

Entrance to covered bazaar, Esfahan

Outside one shop, where a metalworker was banging away at a plate inside, was an incredibly big teapot – made Balnagown teapot [of Edinburgh Gorrie Granny] look doll’s size!

Fred back again!

Back to camp after post office stop – 6 letters!!

Had a shower (cold), washed clothes etc.

In evening made up punch (supposed to be for Nov 5th) – red wine, dashes of spirit (my cherry brandy), cinamon, orange.  Very nice – especially hot.  Had session in the bus until quite late.”

Packs down at campsite, Esfahan – chaos in bus

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Filed under: Overlanders Tagged: bazaar, cake shop, campsite, Esfahan, Iran, letters from home, metalwork, miniatures, Shah Mosque, sticky cakes

CARTER IS PRESIDENT & Coleman’s mustard is for sale in Arak – TOWARDS ESFAHAN, IRAN, 1976

SATURDAY 6TH NOVEMBER, 1976

“Lovely sunrise.  Lots of kids came to watch us with great amusement.

Shopping stop at Hamadan – oldest city in Iran.  Lots of bananas!  Wandered round market with Sally, Fran and Adrian.  Saw them making kidney kebabs; bought little buns.  Looked in ceramic shop – lovely cups and jugs.

Afternoon stop at Arak.  Newspaper bought – Carter President of U.S. – first news for weeks!

Incredible amount of western shops.  Went into one that sold peanut butter – about £1 for tiny jar.  All products were British and foreign, like being back in Britain – even had Coleman’s Mustard!

Stopped at sunset by the road to have supper before driving on.  Sat at front seat changing tapes while everyone else slept.  Cay stop at bus terminus to Tehran – not very nice, but cafe was warm and pleasant.  Second stop at row of shops open late – bought nuts and nougat.  People watching telly in big cay/restaurant place.

Camped at midnight on large plain off the road – not much loo coverage.  Made cup of tea and burnt some wood and bush.”

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Filed under: Overlanders Tagged: Arak, cay, Colman's Mustard, Hamadan, Iran, kidney kebabs, President Carter